In the watchmaking industry, automatic and quartz movements are widely employed to power watches. Consequently, the debate surrounding quartz versus automatic watches has become a constant topic of discussion within the watch community. Both seasoned collectors and newcomers will likely encounter at least one of these watch types.
Seiko introduced the first quartz watch in 1969, thereby revolutionizing the watchmaking market and sparking what is now known as the “Quartz Crisis”. Numerous Swiss watchmakers faced financial difficulties as a direct result. Nevertheless, in recent years, driven by the significant influence of social media, automatic watches (and hype timepieces) have experienced a resurgence. For the purpose of this discussion, our primary focus will be on comparing quartz and automatic watches.
About Quartz Watches
When it comes to how quartz watches work, a quartz movement can be described as an electronic circuit board housing coils, a magnet, an oscillator, and a piece of mineral quartz. Powered by a battery, the mineral quartz vibrates multiple times per second. These vibrations, in turn, cause the seconds hand to tick once per second.
The consistent and precise vibrations serve as the foundation for the accurate timekeeping mechanism of the quartz movement. Furthermore, due to their relatively low number of mechanical parts, quartz movements require minimal maintenance, are affordable, and rarely experience malfunctions. These advantages make quartz watches ideal for individuals seeking a simple timepiece that reliably tells the time.
About Automatic Watches
Automatic watches are often known as self-winding timepieces since they incorporate a rotor that automatically winds the watch as the wearer moves their wrist. When the watch is in motion, the rotor spins, transferring energy to the mainspring and effectively winding the movement.
Additionally, regular wear of an automatic watch enables the movement to build and sustain a power reserve, similar to adding oil to a car. This means that even when the watch is taken off and set aside, it will continue to run due to the stored power reserve. The timepiece will only stop once the power reserve is depleted.
Quartz vs Automatic Watches: History & Origin
Quartz watches made their debut in 1969 with the introduction of the Seiko Quartz Astron. This marked a significant milestone for Seiko and a turning point in the Swiss watch industry. The impact was so profound that it led to the demise of numerous Swiss watch brands during the “Quartz Crisis”.
In terms of historical timeline, quartz emerged as a newer technology that effectively replaced the older and outdated automatic timepieces. However, in present times, quartz watches coexist alongside automatic watches.
On the other hand, automatic timekeeping devices have been in existence for over a century. The earliest known automatic watch dates back to the 18th century. Evidence indicates that Swiss watchmaker Abraham-Louis Perrelet was one of the first to successfully design and create an automatic pocket watch. However, it wasn’t until the early 20th century that automatic wristwatches gained popularity and captured the general public’s interest. Notable examples from that era include the Cartier Tank Normale and the Rolex Oyster Perpetual.
Fast-forwarding to the present, automatic timepieces have significantly evolved and become more refined. Interestingly, within the watch-collecting community, there seems to be a preference for automatic watches. Despite being less accurate, more expensive, and requiring more maintenance compared to quartz watches, automatic timepieces hold their appeal. This preference could be attributed to sentimentality, personal taste, and appreciation for engineering and craftsmanship, among other reasons.
In today’s world, automatic watches are considered a luxury since we no longer rely on them solely for timekeeping. With smartphones serving as modern-day pocket watches, fulfilling a multitude of purposes in our daily lives, the choice to wear an automatic watch becomes a deliberate choice driven by personal appreciation.
Pros & Cons of Quartz Watches
Every individual has their own preferences and reasons for choosing either quartz or automatic timepieces. Let’s begin by examining the pros of quartz before delving into the cons.
Pros
Firstly, quartz watches excel in their timekeeping accuracy, rarely losing or gaining time. This precision is particularly valuable for individuals who rely on accurate timekeeping throughout their day. Secondly, quartz timepieces are known for their reliability and low maintenance requirements compared to their automatic counterparts.
Quartz watches exhibit minimal deviation, ensuring that once the time is set, it remains accurate and less susceptible to environmental and positional factors. Furthermore, quartz watches do not rely on kinetic energy from the wearer.
This means that individuals do not need to engage in physical activities to power the watch’s timekeeping mechanism. Once again, this highlights the low-maintenance nature of quartz watches.
Thirdly, when it comes to reliability, the durability of quartz timepieces is worth noting. The inner workings of a quartz watch involve an electronic system comprising coils, mineral quartz, a microchip, an oscillator, and a battery. As a result, if a quartz watch is subjected to impact or dropped, the likelihood of damage to the quartz movement is significantly reduced.
In comparison, an automatic movement relies on mechanical components that can potentially become displaced or dislodged due to impacts. Such occurrences can adversely affect timekeeping or, in the worst-case scenario, cause the movement to stop functioning altogether.
Furthermore, regular servicing is typically not necessary for quartz timepieces, apart from the occasional battery replacement every 1-2 years or as needed. This aspect brings about less concern for the wearer in terms of maintenance and upkeep.
Fourthly, affordability is another advantage of quartz watches compared to their automatic counterparts. As an example, let’s consider the Omega Seamaster Professional 300m, which was released in the 1990s in both quartz (ref 2541.80) and automatic (ref 2531.80) models.
I personally own the Seamaster Professional 300m ref 2531.80, which was my first luxury watch purchase. It is an exquisite timepiece that has accompanied me on my travels around the world.
Returning to the topic at hand, the quartz and automatic versions of the Omega Seamaster Professional 300m share the same appearance, differing only by a line of text above the 6 o’clock position on the dial. However, when they were initially released, the quartz version was more affordable than its automatic counterpart.
Even in today’s secondary market, the automatic version commands a higher price. Consequently, if you find a watch you like and it is available in both quartz and automatic versions, opting for the quartz model can save you some money.
Lastly, quartz watches are typically thinner and lighter due to their simpler movement design without any additional mechanical components. With fewer parts, they weigh less, allowing for slimmer watch cases. This results in quartz watches feeling more comfortable on the wrist and, at times, barely noticeable in terms of weight.
Cons
On the other hand, it’s important to acknowledge that quartz watches have their fair share of disadvantages as well. Firstly, there exists a stigma within a segment of the watch community that considers quartz watches to be cheap and disposable timepieces.
This perception is more prevalent with fashion watches, where prices are often significantly inflated compared to the actual manufacturing cost. These watches lack value and can end up costing more to repair than the sum of their parts.
Secondly, quartz watches typically feature a seconds hand that ticks once per second rather than sweeping smoothly like the seconds hand of automatic watches. This has led to a misconception perpetuated by pop culture and media, with phrases such as “Rolexes don’t tick” becoming common. These misconceptions reinforce the notion that quartz watches are cheap.
However, as you have learned, this is not always the case. Additionally, quartz watches are often influenced by fashion trends. Many fashion brands that sell watches incorporate quartz movements into designs that align with specific trends or styles.
However, these styles are often short-lived and quickly become outdated. Consequently, the watch may be perceived as disposable as fashion trends come and go. Additionally, fashion brands often lack historical significance within horology and typically exhibit a noticeable lack of quality control in their watches.
What’s more, there is often an association of lesser craftsmanship and quality with quartz watches when compared to automatic watches. Automatic movements consist of a greater number of parts, requiring more time and attention to assemble, whether done by machines or humans.
However, with a few exceptions (such as the FP Journe Elegante), most quartz watches are assembled by machines on a production line. Consequently, the level of skill and effort involved in producing a quartz timepiece is generally lower than that required for an automatic counterpart.
Finally, it’s worth noting that quartz movement watches utilize lithium batteries. If a quartz watch is not worn for an extended period and stops running, there is a possibility that the battery could leak. This leakage can lead to damage to the watch movement, requiring a major overhaul or even replacement of the quartz movement itself. As a result, servicing costs for quartz watches can be higher than usual.
Below is a summary of the Pros of quartz watches:
• Highly accurate
• Reliable & low maintenance
• Durability
• Affordability
• Lightweight & thinner
Below is a summary of the Cons of quartz watches:
• Stigmatized as being cheap
• Fashion influenced
• Lacks craftsmanship and quality
• Battery Leaks may damage movement
Pros & Cons of Automatic Watches
Now, let’s delve into the pros and cons of automatic watches, starting with the positives first.
Pros
Firstly, automatic watches have the potential to last beyond one’s lifetime if they are properly maintained and kept in good condition. Regular servicing, including seal changes, ensures the continuous reliability of the timepiece, making it usable for many generations to come. This longevity makes automatic watches a worthwhile investment.
Secondly, automatic watches possess a distinct sentimental value and carry a sense of soul. They are often cherished as family heirlooms, passed down from one generation to the next. Just imagine the significance of receiving your grandfather’s watch on your 18th birthday or wedding day.
These truly special occasions in one’s lifetime are made even more remarkable by the presence of an automatic timepiece, which adds a touch of history and tradition to these cherished events. Thirdly, automatic watches boast a higher level of quality and craftsmanship compared to quartz timepieces. This becomes more apparent when one removes the case back and observes the intricate mechanical components of an automatic movement.
The gears, cogs, bridges, and screws are meticulously assembled within the movement with specific and precise tolerances. Even the slightest dislodgement or looseness of a small piece can significantly impact the timekeeping accuracy of an automatic watch. Therefore, a high degree of engineering is involved in creating each automatic timepiece to ensure it operates according to the manufacturer’s specific timekeeping standards.
While not every automatic watch reaches the same level of Swiss excellence, for those that do, there is an undeniable sense of owning something truly exceptional. Such watches embody the dedication of time, effort, and mastery that goes into their production.
Fourthly, automatic watches feature sweeping seconds hands, which are often perceived by the general public as a hallmark of higher quality and craftsmanship. As mentioned earlier, many individuals believe that all Rolex timepieces have a sweeping seconds hand, but the Rolex Oyster Quartz collection challenges this perception.
Furthermore, automatic watches possess a timeless and traditional design and essence. Automatic timepieces were invented several decades prior to the introduction of the first quartz watch in 1969. As a result, there is an artisanal heritage associated with the craftsmanship of automatic watches. They are often characterized by a refined and enduring design.
For example, automatic wristwatches gained greater popularity in the 1920s, and vintage models from that era are still cherished and worn by watch collectors today. This demonstrates that the designs of early automatic watches have stood the test of time and remain relevant even in the present day.
Lastly, automatic movements are visually appealing. They consist of numerous mechanical parts such as the mainspring, cogs, screws, bridges, rotors, and more. While the level of finishing may vary across different watches, in general, the intricate interplay of these mechanical components is captivating to behold. Automatic movements offer a dynamic and engaging visual experience, contrasting with the seemingly static nature of quartz movements when viewed with the naked eye.
Cons
Nevertheless, there are still drawbacks to automatic movements, despite their popularity among watch collectors. Firstly, automatic watches are generally less accurate in terms of timekeeping compared to quartz watches. The advancements in quartz movement technology have far surpassed automatic technology regarding basic timekeeping.
A notable example is the Citizen Caliber 0100, introduced in 2019, which is considered the world’s most accurate quartz movement. This exceptional movement is housed within the Citizen watch reference AQ6021-51E. With an accuracy rating of +-1 second per year, this quartz watch sets a remarkable standard that cannot be matched by any automatic movement.
As someone who has owned several Citizen watches, I have come to trust the brand’s quality and believe in the reliability of their bold timekeeping claim. Secondly, automatic watches rely on winding or kinetic movement from the wearer to power the automatic movement. The most common automatic movements have a power reserve ranging from 38 to 80 hours.
However, watches with a shorter power reserve may pose a challenge. For instance, if you stop wearing your watch on a Friday evening, by Monday morning, the watch may have stopped running, requiring manual winding to restart the movement.
Furthermore, some owners of Seiko watches powered by the newer 6R automatic movement (with a 70-hour power reserve) have reported that when the power reserve runs low, the timekeeping of the watch becomes erratic and lacks stability compared to the older 6R15 Seiko movement (with approximately 50 hours of power reserve).
Additionally, not everyone enjoys the inconvenience of needing to regularly engage with their watch. Some individuals prefer to set the time once and have it maintain accuracy for an extended period without the need for regular winding or involvement.
Thirdly, owning an automatic watch entails greater maintenance requirements to ensure its longevity. Regular servicing intervals are necessary to maintain the accuracy of the movement at a high standard. Additionally, automatic watches may require more frequent changes of gaskets or seals, especially if the timepiece is frequently exposed to aquatic environments.
These maintenance tasks are crucial for preserving the water resistance of the watch case. The cumulative effect of various maintenance-related work can lead to significant expenses associated with owning an automatic watch.
Fourthly, automatic timepieces tend to be more expensive than their quartz counterparts due to the craftsmanship and engineering involved in their production. As mentioned in my previous example of the Omega Seamaster Professional 300m, you may find a more affordable option with the same appearance in a quartz model. By opting for the quartz version, you can save money while still enjoying the brand heritage and prestige associated with it.
Lastly, the presence of numerous mechanical parts in automatic movements results in thicker and heavier watch cases compared to quartz timepieces. The increased thickness may impact comfort on the wrist or hinder the watch from sliding under a dress cuff, especially in the case of thicker automatic dress watches. While the thickness may be appropriate and desired for certain timepieces like dive watches, many individuals would appreciate a thinner automatic movement and watch case if given the option.
Moreover, the weight of an automatic watch can become an issue if it is particularly heavy and worn for extended periods. This can lead to discomfort depending on one’s activities throughout the day. Additionally, there is a myth that the weight of a watch is a common indicator of its quality.
While this may hold true for precious metal watches (e.g., yellow gold, white gold, rose gold, and platinum), it is not always the case. For example, Richard Mille employs titanium as the primary material for the watch cases of several of their models, which challenges the notion that weight alone determines quality.
Below is a summary of the Pros of automatic watches:
• Reliable long term
• Heirloom factor
• Higher quality & craftsmanship
• Timeless & traditional
• Aesthetically attractive movements
Below is a summary of the Cons of automatic watches:
• Less accurate
• Requires winding
• Higher maintenance
• More expensive
• Heavier & thicker
Quartz vs Automatic Watches: Which One Should You Choose?
Below, we will explore additional factors that are relevant to both quartz and automatic watches. Considering these factors can help you determine which type of watch best suits your needs.
Accuracy
There is no doubt that quartz is the more accurate movement. When you set the time on a quartz watch, you can be confident that it will maintain a high level of accuracy. On the other hand, automatic watches require either regular winding or consistent wearing to keep the power reserve from running empty.
Price & Availability
Once again, quartz timepieces come out on top in terms of price and availability. They are generally more affordable and easier to find compared to automatic watches. Quartz watches offer great value for money as they perform the same essential function of telling time. Additionally, due to the higher demand for automatic watches, quartz timepieces are more readily obtainable in the market.
Service Cost
Once again, in terms of affordability, quartz watches come out on top in this category. Quartz watches typically require a battery change every 1-2 years, which is a simple service that can often be done at home with the right tools to open the case back and replace the battery.
There is no need for major overhauls or oiling of mechanical parts with quartz watches. In contrast, servicing an automatic watch can be costly due to the complexity involved in disassembling the movement and replacing any broken mechanical components.
It usually requires taking the timepiece to a professional watchmaker who will carefully examine and service the watch. Even for watch enthusiasts like myself, the most complex service I have performed on my own timepieces is to remove the case back and regulate my watches by adjusting the regulation screw or pin.
Watch Variety
This is a category where automatic watches excel over quartz watches, particularly due to the longer history of automatic watch production compared to the introduction of quartz watches in 1969. Automatic watches offer a greater variety of options, as mentioned earlier.
However, it’s important to note that they are also in higher demand, especially when it comes to “hype” watches and models from renowned brands such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Audemars Piguet. This popularity can be a double-edged sword for luxury watch brands, as it creates both opportunities and challenges in meeting the demand for their coveted timepieces.
Conclusion
In conclusion, quartz and automatic watches each have their own set of advantages and disadvantages. Quartz watches are known for their superior accuracy, while automatic watches often exhibit a higher level of craftsmanship. However, comparing the inner workings of quartz and automatic watches is akin to comparing apples and oranges.
Rather than favoring one type over the other, it is important to appreciate the diverse range of watches available to us as consumers. As a fellow watch collector, I welcome the growth of the watch community, whether it is driven by the popularity of automatic or quartz watches.
Alternatively, we could delve into the realm of Seiko’s Spring Drive movement watches, but that discussion can be saved for another time.
Greetings, horological enthusiasts! Today, I’m embarking on an extraordinary journey to the mountains of Geneva to explore the captivating world of Alpina watches. In this ultimate guide, we’ll traverse the intricate maze of craftsmanship, innovation, and heritage that defines this revered and often underrated Swiss watchmaking brand.
Alpina, a representative of Swiss precision and performance, has been enchanting watch lovers since its inception in 1883. Armed with a legacy steeped in tradition, the brand’s timepieces exude an aura of sophistication and reliability, crafted to withstand the test of time – quite literally.
Within this article, I’ll touch on the four main Alpina collections, from the rugged Alpiner series to the sporty Seastrong line-up, and delve into the remarkable fusion of Swiss artistry and hard-wearing technology that sets Alpina apart.
As I illuminate the brand’s unique features and allure, I hope prospective buyers will discover the essence of Alpina’s appeal and discern why these timekeepers have earned their place on many a wrist.
Geneva’s Own – About Alpina Watches
Renowned for their commitment to quality and for building unstoppable Swiss timepieces that cater to lower-spending brackets without sacrificing quality, Alpina timepieces are veritable companions for adventurers and urban explorers alike. Embodying the perfect marriage of technicality and visual appeal, Alpina’s design ethos harmoniously blends classic elegance with a bold, contemporary flair.
A prime example of Alpina’s artistry lies in their Alpiner collection, a tribute to the brand’s rich heritage. These watches exude timeless charm, characterized by clean dials, intricate detailing, and robust stainless steel cases – ideal for those craving a touch of vintage allure with a modern edge.
If you seek the adrenaline rush of extreme sports, look no further. Unyielding in both performance and style, most of Alpina’s timepieces are crafted to weather the toughest outdoor escapades.
Robust yet refined, they effortlessly transition from the ocean’s depths to the heights of sartorial excellence. I can think of very few situations that an Alpina couldn’t handle with aplomb, which baffles me when I consider that so many people aren’t hip to Alpina…yet.
With a diverse array of models catering to various tastes and lifestyles, Alpina watches remain steadfast in their pursuit of enduring appeal. These aren’t only watches that perform well – they look good in the process.
Sure, they feel like you’ve seen them before a lot of the time, but is that really such a bad thing? I want a diver that looks like a diver and a field watch that carries the traits of a field watch, and Alpina sure comes to the table on that front. What you see is what you get, and what you get is (perhaps) unparalleled value for money.
Alpina Through Time – A History Of Alpina Watches
With roots dating back to 1883, Alpina has traversed the horological landscape, leaving an indelible mark on the watchmaking world and crafted out a piece of the Swiss watch market all for themselves.
A pivotal moment in Alpina’s history was the birth of the Alpina 4 in 1938, setting new standards of durability, precision, anti-magnetism, and water resistance – a quartet of qualities that became the foundation for their future endeavors. This remarkable timepiece marked a turning point, elevating Alpina to a symbol of reliability and resilience in their given field.
Fast forward to the modern era, and the Alpina AlpinerX Alive emerges as a living testament to the brand’s forward-thinking spirit. With its cutting-edge smart technology, this watch seamlessly merges tradition with innovation, catering to the tech savvy adventurer who seeks more than just a time-telling device. Above this, the Alpina 4 was re-released in 2014 to great fanfare and is imbued with the characteristics of its predecessor and then some.
Through trials and innovations, Alpina has remained a steadfast guardian of time, adapting to changing tastes and technology while preserving its signature style. Even with a brief glance into Alpina’s rich history, one bears witness to the evolution of watches that epitomize the essence of modern timekeeping.
Under The Microscope – Are Alpina Watches Any Good?
In the ever-competitive realm of horology, Alpina watches prove their mettle with a resounding yes – they are unequivocally good. Renowned for their Swiss craftsmanship, these timepieces boast build quality that stands the test of time, quite literally. Meticulously crafted with precision and high-quality materials, Alpina watches exude a sense of robustness, making them reliable companions for life’s adventures.
As true stalwarts of the watchmaking world, Alpina’s commitment to precision extends beyond aesthetics. The brand’s timekeeping prowess has been endorsed by countless watch enthusiasts, professionals, and explorers.
Thanks to their historical Alpiner 4 roots, these watches have come to represent accessible vestiges of durability, reliability, and anti-magnetic properties. This triumvirate ensures they remain steady and accurate amidst the daily hustle and bustle. More than that, they’re built to be relied upon in even the harshest outdoor situations.
Furthermore, Alpina’s dedication to design excellence shines through in its diverse collections, captivating enthusiasts from various walks of life. From the classic elegance of, say, the Alpiner Comtesse to the bold modernity exhibited by the Alpiner Extreme Automatic, Alpina’s portfolio caters to a broad spectrum of tastes, ensuring something affordable and attractive in their collection for everyone.
Alpina watches confidently tick all the boxes of what constitutes a “good” timepiece – impeccable build quality, reliable timekeeping, and captivating design. For those seeking a blend of tradition and innovation, Alpina proves time and time again that they are indeed a force to be reckoned with in the watchmaking cosmos.
Price and Availability
Anyone who knows Alpina knows that they present an enticing value proposition that strikes the perfect chord between functionality, materials, build quality, designs, and heritage. With a Swiss legacy of over 140 years, Alpina timepieces embody the very essence of Swiss excellence – they know what they’re doing, and more specifically, they know how to create the best possible watch for their price range.
In terms of availability, these masterpieces are accessible through an extensive network of authorized dealers and reputable watch retailers, ensuring enthusiasts across the globe can embrace an Alpina on their wrists. From bustling metropolitan centers to remote horological havens, Alpina’s reach spans far and wide, catering to both seasoned collectors and newcomers alike.
For those of you who’d rather buy a watch without standing up, Alpina’s full range is available online. You barely have to lift a finger to get a Swiss watch delivered to your front door. However, if you’re into vintage stuff, you’ll find it a bit more tricky to land that perfect mid-century Alpina you’re after. Patience, smarts, and a good command of aftermarket buying platforms are the only things that can help with that.
While their prowess may be revered, Alpina watches remain surprisingly attainable, offering a spectrum of price points that accommodate various budgets but never venturing as far into the realms of ‘high-end horology’ in their pricing as other well-known Swiss brands. This affordability does not compromise on quality; instead, it reinforces the brand’s commitment to making exceptional Swiss timepieces more accessible to passionate watch aficionados.
Which Model Should You Choose?
Ah, the delightful conundrum of picking the perfect Alpina watch, especially for those venturing into the realm of Swiss horology for the first time. Fear not, dear horological novices – I’ve got you.
If you’re after something simple yet effective, the Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic should undoubtedly be on your radar. Embracing aviation-inspired design elements and a reliable self-winding movement, this timepiece is a true co-pilot for your daily adventures.
For those with an adventurous and sporty spirit, the Alpina Seastrong Diver 300 presents an alluring option. Built to withstand the ocean’s depths, it combines rugged durability with precision timekeeping, perfect for diving enthusiasts and style aficionados. There’s also a vintage ‘version’ of this watch in the same range that should appeal to the old souls among us.
Now, if you crave a classic dress watch with a twist, the Alpiner Heritage Carrée might just be your soulmate. With its exquisite dial, polished stainless steel case, and an in-house mechanical movement, this beauty embodies timeless elegance, proving itself an ideal companion for formal soirées and everyday splendor.
As you embark on this thrilling journey of discovery, these popular Alpina models serve as compelling starting points, each resonating with a unique blend of design, functionality, and craftsmanship. So, embrace the allure of Alpina and choose the model that speaks to your heart. I’m not sorry if that sounds cheesy. Now let’s look a bit closer at Alpina’s main ranges.
Alpina Seastrong
Designed for intrepid souls who seek adventure both above and below the surface, these timepieces boast an amalgamation of Swiss precision and nautical charm. One standout model within this aquatic lineup is the Alpina Seastrong Diver 300 Automatic.
Equipped with a robust stainless steel case, a unidirectional rotating bezel, and 300 meters of water resistance, it fearlessly braves the depths of the ocean while keeping perfect time. But don’t be fooled by its tough exterior; its striking black dial and glowing luminescent hands ensure it remains a head-turner even in the most fashionable circles.
For those craving a touch of vintage flair, the Alpina Seastrong Heritage 36mm proves to be a beacon of classic allure. Paying homage to Alpina’s historical diving timepieces, this beauty charms with its refined 36mm case, bold numerals, and distinctive triangular markers. Rest assured; it’s not just about the looks – with 300 meters of water resistance, this watch stands tall as a reliable diving companion.
Alpina Startimer
Prepare for takeoff into the heights of the Alpina Startimer range. Born from a deep-rooted passion for aviation, these timepieces embrace a harmonious fusion of precision engineering and pilot-inspired design. Designed for those who thirst for adventure and love the open skies, the Alpina Startimer collection is certainly worth a look, even if you don’t have a Cessna in your backyard.
A great example within this aeronautical lineup is the Startimer Pilot Heritage. This timepiece pays homage to the brand’s history, boasting a striking 42mm stainless steel square case, a nostalgic “faux patina” dial, and luminescent hands for enhanced readability during airborne escapades.
Whether you’re soaring above the clouds or conquering the boardroom, this watch exudes the timeless charm of a true pilot’s companion. Fans of the TAG Monaco might want to take a look at this, in particular.
Another jewel in the Alpina Startimer crown is the Alpina Startimer Pilot Chronograph Big Date. This chronograph merges high-performance functionality with an elegant appearance thanks to its eye-catching bi-compax subdial layout and a distinctive big date aperture at 6 o’clock.
Engineered to meet the demands of modern aviators, this timepiece confidently takes center stage as a symbol of precision and style. Like the aforementioned models, it’s available in several finishes and styles, so there’s a good chance that at least one iteration will catch any eye.
Alpina Alpiner
As the heartbeat of Alpina’s heritage, this collection speaks for the brand and the spirit of exploration that echoes through the very foundations of Alpina watches. Inspired by the iconic Alpiner 4, these timepieces marry classic aesthetics with modern innovations, resulting in a symphony of style and functionality.
One standout model within this lineup is the Alpina Alpiner Automatic. With its refined 42mm stainless steel case, clear-cut dial, and distinctive arrow-shaped hands, this watch captures the essence of traditional watchmaking craftsmanship. Equipped with a robust automatic movement, it ensures precision timekeeping, whether you’re navigating the urban landscape or venturing into the great outdoors.
For those yearning for a touch of sophistication, the Alpiner Regulator Automatic effortlessly commands attention. Its regulator-style dial, featuring separate hours, minutes, and seconds subdials, showcases both technical prowess, elegance, and something a little different from a conventional watch face. With the AL-650 in-house manufactured movement at its core, this timepiece stands tall as a testament to Alpina’s dedication to horological mastery.
Alpina Comtesse
Elegance meets sophistication in the enchanting world of the Alpina Comtesse range. Designed to grace the wrists of modern ladies, these timepieces celebrate femininity with a touch of brilliance. Embodying Alpina’s commitment to exquisite craftsmanship, the Comtesse collection radiates a sense of class and simplicity devoid of any affectation.
One standout model within this regal lineup is the Alpina Comtesse Glacier Smartwatch. As much as it pains me to add a smartwatch to any list, this one really can’t be overlooked, simply for the fact that it doesn’t look like a smartwatch at all. Blending the art of traditional watchmaking with modern smart technology, this timepiece caters to the discerning woman who seeks both style and substance.
With its deep blue dial, black bezel, diamond indices, and smart functionalities, it effortlessly balances grace and intelligence. Oh yeah, it’s also a world timer, a heart rate monitor, a weather forecaster, and a breathwork coach. Need I say more? For those who prefer a more conventional approach, the Alpina Comtesse Quartz series enchants with its classical beauty and inward simplicity.
Featuring a delicate 34mm stainless steel case, a captivating selection of brushed and colored dials, and elegant Roman numeral hour markers, this watch embraces traditional watchmaking artistry powered by a reliable automatic movement. It’s a reliable ticker for the most reserved wrists. A timepiece that gets the job done effortlessly without boasting about it.
From the Mountains, With Love
From the rugged charm of the Alpina Seastrong range, the soaring heights of the Alpina Startimer collection, the elegance of the Alpina Alpiner series, to the enchanting grace of the Alpina Comtesse lineup, Alpina has proven its prowess in crafting watches that cater to every taste and lifestyle.
With a nod to their rich history and an eye firmly on the future, Alpina timepieces marry tradition with innovation, ensuring each watch stands as a testament to the brand’s unwavering commitment to quality and precision.
Whether you’re an adventurer, aviator, connoisseur, or queen, Alpina has a masterpiece that will capture your heart and elevate your style. Are they the best watches money can buy? No. Are they the best watches for the money they’re asking for? Almost certainly, yes. So, if you’re seeking the perfect amalgamation of heritage, functionality, and affordability to adorn your wrist, look no further than Alpina.
Mido is an under-the-radar watch brand that’s worth taking a look at. Mido has been around for over a century, and for more than a few decades, they’ve been a part of the Swatch Group, but they are a bit neglected, in my opinion.
They haven’t received the marketing attention they deserve, and that’s a shame because Mido puts out some high-quality timepieces with great style and strong vintage vibes. When you think about some of the more notable brands in the Swatch Group in the same entry-level luxury space, like Tissot and Hamilton, they’re known for their associations with the NBA and big Hollywood movie and television productions.
Yet, Mido is known for its sponsorship of Red Bull Cliff Diving, which is cool, but lacks the exposure of Hollywood and big sports. In this article, we will take you on a deep-dive expedition in the remote world of Mido and examine some of its top models.
From the Ocean Star line with the rainbow dial that created quite a slash in recent years to the Commander collection, a nod to their heritage, we’re sure there’s something here for everyone. Their commitment to design and their attention to detail make them a solid representation of quality Swiss watchmaking that won’t disappoint.
The History Of Mido Watches
The Mido brand was born in Biel/Bienne, Switzerland, by founder George G. Schaeren, a master Swiss watchmaker, who gave Mido its name. Mido comes from the Spanish word Yo Mido, translated as I measure; an acknowledgment of the importance of precise timekeeping to chronicle mankind’s achievements in sports and beyond. These are the ideals the brand has been living up to ever since.
Watch horologists and collectors put a high premium on a brand’s heritage. It’s their story that explains what they stand for and the accomplishments and milestones in their history that demonstrate how they have lived up to those ideals. Some have strong military ties during the Second World War, and others have pushed the boundaries of watch engineering.
When examining Mido, you’ll see they’ve got innovative chops to impress the experts. In 1924, Mido introduced their Multifort, which proved to be a rugged powerhouse and set new standards in the watch industry for water resistance.
In the 30s and 40s, they garnered further attention with the Mido Multicenterchrono, the first watch with a central chronograph hand and a mouthful of a name to remember it by. This accomplishment, combined with their Mutifort, sent clear signals to the industry that the Mido brand was committed to innovation.
By 1944, Mido had released the Ocean Star collection, with its rugged good looks and solid water resistance, it became a fan favorite among divers and water sports athletes and remains so.
By the 1950s, Mido had launched one of their most iconic lines, the Commander. The collection featured styles that were both vintage and modern, and it’s still a popular collection offered today.
In recent years, Mido has received a number of awards in the watch industry, including the Red Dot Design Award and the iF Design Award, which further demonstrates their quality and design accomplishments.
What’s The Status Of Mido Today?
Mido has remained a respectable watch brand admired by collectors and watch experts. They don’t have the name ID as many of their direct competitors, but they continue to build quality, Swiss-made timepieces with many popular complications such as antimagnetic properties, chronographs, and automatic movements. All of this is delivered in a robust, durable, stylish package and at a reasonable price.
Rising in Rank
Mido has received recognition in recent years, winning design awards and becoming a favorite of the critics, despite the fact that they haven’t become as popular with the general public. When one compares Mido to a brand like Shinola, it’s easy to see that you’re just getting so much more from an engineering and features standpoint with Mido.
Both brands offer nicely designed vintage watches, but Mido consistently delivers more bang for the buck. With better marketing, a brand like Mido has all the right stuff to break through.
Excellence in Craftsmanship
Mido is known for its attention to detail and the rigorous testing it puts its watches through. MNido only hires the most skilled Swiss watchmakers to ensure that every component is perfectly integrated. Mido takes pride in their work, which is evident in how they uphold the highest Swiss horological traditions.
Innovation and Technological Advancements
Mido has long maintained a good balance between innovation while remaining true to their heritage. What they call a neo-vintage style, Mido pairs traditional looks with modern touches. They match tradition with the latest tech, such as their caliber 80 automatic movement, which is officially certified by the COSC and offers a robust 80-hour power reserve.
Another area of innovation they shine in is with their Nivachron balance-spring. This titanium-based metal allows for a reduction of the effect from a magnetic field while offering top-notch shock resistance.
Unique Design
Mido is known for using architectural wonders the world over as inspiration for their watch designs, incorporating clean lines, distinct shapes, and luxurious textures. They’re elegant and timeless, yet sophisticatedly cosmopolitan and upmarket. Their watches stand out with their eye-catching designs.
Accessible Luxury
Mido timepieces offer affordable luxury that doesn’t compromise on all the things that matter, like design, quality, and heritage. This makes them a great option for those looking to get into the luxury watch market, as well as seasoned collectors that see this as a brand that could break out in the future.
Mido’s current era is marked by a continuation of its track record in pushing boundaries and offering new innovations. They’re doing everything right except for marketing, and this offers a potential opportunity to stanch them up at a reasonable price before someone at Swatch Group recognizes this hidden gem in their constellation of brands.
The Best Mido Watches
1. MIDO OCEAN STAR 200 REF. M026.430.11.051.00
The Ocean Star 200 is a classic diver’s watch with rugged good looks. The stainless steel case measures 42.5mm and features a gear-style edging along the outside of the bezel. The case measures 11.8mm thick, which is very reasonable, especially for a diver, which can often be chunky.
The slimmer profile allows this timepiece to easily slide under a dress shirt and therefore makes this a more versatile watch. The watch includes a handsome, rotating black bezel. The dial is clean and simple, as a diver should be, with silver hands and rectangular indices. There’s a day and date window at three o’clock and an orange tip on the second hand to offer a pop of color.
Under the hood, the watch is powered by a modified ETA movement with a rather substantial power reserve of 80 hours. The timepiece offers a screw-down crown, sapphire crystal, and water resistance of up to 200 meters. The watch is paired with a brushed stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp and a diver extension system.
The screw-down case back displays the Ocean Star logo. The timepiece is offered in seven different configurations, at various price points, including a rubber strap, two-tone steel and rose gold, a stunning blue and gold with a synthetic strap, gray and black, and a blue dial with a darker blue bezel.
Understated elegance. Those are the two words that come to mind when gazing upon the Mido Baroncelli Heritage Gent. The timepiece has a thin profile. After all, it’s only 7.3mm thick, and between that and its soft features, there’s a delicate nature to the watch.
Yet, that delicateness is balanced by a mid-size 39mm stainless steel case. The sandpaper white dial with its painted black indices, date window at three o’clock, and its silver sword-style hands, oozes class. The sharp blue second hand adds just the right touch of sophistication.
Turn the watch over, and you’ll find an open case back displaying the Mido automatic ETA movement with a 42-hour power reserve. The display is protected by a sapphire crystal and is water resistant to 30 meters, which is acceptable, as this is a dress watch, not meant for diving or water sports. The black leather strap is an embossed cow leather that looks like more upmarket alligator leather and is fitted with a simple stainless steel tang buckle.
Price: $1,040
3. MIDO MULTIFORT TV BIG DATE REF. M049.526.11.041.00
The unique shape of the Mido Multifort TV Big Date is probably the first thing one notices. It’s not exactly square. It’s not exactly a rectangle. Its edges aren’t precisely straight, but nor are they completely round. Mido calls it a TV shape. It has an 80s throwback vibe to my eye.
As the name suggests, there is a large date window at 12 o’clock. The shape reminds me of an old Apple computer monitor. If you can remember the Macintosh, like me, then perhaps your eyes will benefit from the enlarged date. The intense dial features a horizontal brushed deep blue gradient dial that turns black at the edges.
There’s a mix of circular and rectangular indices, and the chunky gray hands and slim seconds hand finishes off the dial nicely. It’s a pleasing, distinctive design to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Big Date.
The contrasting brushed and polished surfaces around the case of the watch offer a refined look. The stainless steel case measures 39.2mm and sits on the wrist at 11.5mm thick. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal and the screw-down crown is protected by a partial crown guard on the sides.
Despite the 80s vibes to the look of the timepiece, inside, it’s powered by the latest tech. The watch offers a Mido automatic ETA with 80 hours of power reserve, water resistance to 100 meters, and is fitted with powerful shock and antimagnetic resistance from its balance spring. The timepiece is paired with a rather handsome and fitting gray stainless steel bracelet with satin outer links and polished inner links.
Price: $1,250
4. MIDO OCEAN STAR CHRONOGRAPH REF. M026.627.44.041.00
This is a unique offering. The Mido Ocean Star Chronograph is both a dive watch and a chronograph, which is a noteworthy pairing, and something Mido is known for. The titanium case measures 44mm and sits on the wrist at 15.6mm. It’s a chunky diver, but the bulk is offset by the lightness of the titanium.
The ceramic navy blue bezel handsomely wraps an almost marine blue dial with applied indices. The thick, skeletonized hour and minute hands are contrasted by a slim seconds hand with an orange tip, matching the orange lettering of the Ocean Star logo and the small orange triangle at 12 o’clock.
The face of the watch offers a two-register dial, a tachymeter in nautical miles, and a date window at 6 o’clock. The dial is protected by sapphire crystal, and there’s a partially protected screw-down crown with crown guards on the sides and flanking pushers.
The watch is powered by Mido’s automatic ETA with a 60-hour power reserve and features date, chronograph, and small seconds functions. It has a water resistance of up to 200 meters and is fitted with a titanium gray bracelet with contrasting satin and polished links, a folding clasp, and a diver extension system.
Mido describes the Baroncelli Signature as “intensely chic and timeless”, and I think that’s an apt description. The design cues of this timepiece strike a balance between classic and fashion-forward. The stainless steel case is 9.9mm thin, as a dress watch should be. The round case measures 39mm. The black dial, with its silver, applied indexes and silver sword-style hands, is elegant.
There’s a thin textured outer ring and an almost beaded gray inner ring with a center black sunburst dial. A date window at three o’clock adds an element of functionality. The open caseback proudly shows the watch’s Mido’s automatic ETA movement with an 80-hour power reserve. The face is protected by a sapphire crystal and is water resistant to 50 meters.
It features the anti-shock and magnetic properties we’ve previously addressed. The watch weighs 111 grams and is accompanied by a two-year warranty.
The timepiece’s bracelet is an attractive, up-scale, multilink stainless steel bracelet that gives it a little bit of a sporty flair to an otherwise dressy watch. The timepiece comes in eight different configurations, with offerings in silver, gold, and diamonds, at different price points.
As previously noted, Mido finds inspiration from architectural icons. This version, the Mido Commander Chronograph, is big and bold, as I’m sure the building that served as its muse is. The stainless steel and PVD-coated rose gold case measures 42.5mm and sits on the wrist at 14.9mm thick, so it’s not exactly a thin profile. The gray sunray dial has rose gold-toned lined indices and hands.
The dial offers three registers with darker backgrounds against the gray, two larger at six and twelve o’clock and a smaller one at nine o’clock. There’s also a day and date window at three o’clock. There’s a lot going on with the dial, but it’s compartmentalized well, so it doesn’t feel too busy.
The watch weighs 110 grams. The face is protected by a sapphire crystal and is water resistant to 50 meters. The see-through case back displays the caliber 60 Mido ETA automatic chronograph movement with a 60-hour power reserve and offers multiple functions, including day, date, Chronograph, and small seconds.
The timepiece is paired with a brown leather alligator-like strap with a folding clasp. This special edition version also comes with a second synthetic strap for a more casual look. The watch comes in another version that’s all steel with a stainless steel bracelet.
Price: $2,090
7. MIDO MULTIFORT M CHRONOMETER REF. M038.431.11.097.00
The Mido Multifort M Chronometer is one of those everyday watches that practically checks all the boxes. The stainless steel case measures 42mm and sits on the wrist at roughly 12mm thick. The face of the timepiece is protected by sapphire crystal.
The dial features silver sword-style hands against a horizontal brushed green gradient dial, with black at the outer edges. The applied indexes are a mix of indices and numbers, with numbers at 6, 9, and 12. There’s a day and date window at three o’clock.
The open case back makes visible the Mido ETA automatic movement that’s COSC certified. It has an 80-hour power reserve. The watch is water resistant to 100 meters. The stainless steel strap is a three-link Oyster-style with a hidden butterfly clasp.
The only thing perhaps missing from the bracelet is micro-adjustment, but everything about this watch is so well finished down to the satin face of the links, contrasted with the polished link sides. Finishing work… that’s one thing Mido does well that some of its competitors in this price range could do better.
Price: $1,350
8. MIDO OCEAN STAR TRIBUTE REF. M026.830.11.051.00
The Mido Ocean Star Tribute is a real standout special edition in the Ocean Star collection. I don’t usually jump right into the bracelet in my review, but what I like most about the design is the bracelet. It’s a multilink mesh-like stainless steel band that looks smart and feels as comfortable as it looks. It also comes with a second black canvas strap with contrasting orange stitching.
The stainless steel case measures 40.5mm and sits on the wrist at 13.44mm. The rotatable black bezel has a steel gear edge. The domed sapphire crystal covering the face adds to the overall vintage 60s diver vibes of the watch. The chunky gray hour and minute hands are nicely complimented by an orange lollipop-style seconds hand.
There’s a day and date window at three o’clock. The watch is powered by a Mido automatic ETA with an 80-hour power reserve. The timepiece includes a screw-down crown and is water resistant to 200 meters. The watch comes in seven different configurations, with blue, black, green, and red dials.
The Belluna Sunray is an all-black PVD-coated stainless steel. The round case measures 41.5mm and sits at 10.8mm on the wrist. Mido describes the black dial as a “dazzling sunray guilloché-style”.
The modern dial includes silver applied indices with a double index at the twelve o’clock position. There’s also a functional day and date window at three o’clock. The face of the watch is protected by sapphire crystal. The back of the case displays the Mido automatic ETA movement with its 80-hour power reserve.
The watch is fitted with a black PVD-coated stainless steel multi-link bracelet with a folding clasp. The black case, dial, and bracelet give it a sleek look. The contrasting finishing of satin and polished surfaces adds to the watch’s elegance. The timepiece comes in three different configurations, with a blue dial and one with a brown leather strap option.
The Multifort Patrimony has a retro look from the early 19th century when pulsometer watches were first designed for physicians who needed to track the heart rate of their patients. These watches also became popular with athletes, who wanted to keep their heart rate in the proper range for maximum benefit.
The round stainless steel case measures 40mm and sits on the wrist at 12mm thick. The beautiful gradient blue dial is mesmerizing, and the vintage Mido logo at twelve o’clock is a nice touch. The dial has a mix of indexes and numbers at 3, 6, 9, and 12. There’s a date window at six o’clock. There’s a pulsometer scale on the outer rim of the dial.
There’s an open case back revealing the Mido automatic ETA with an 80-hour power reserve. The face of the watch is protected by a sapphire crystal. The watch is paired with an embossed beige cow leather that looks almost suede, with contrasting stitching, and features a simple stainless steel tang buckle. The watch is available in a couple of different configurations, including an anthracite gray dial with a black leather strap.
Price: $930
11. MIDO OCEAN STAR 600 CHRONOMETER REF. M026.608.11.041.01
The Mido Ocean Star collection of diver watches should be at or near the top of your list if you’re looking for a diver in this price range. Some of the Ocean Star designs have been inspired by European lighthouses. This Ocean Star 600 Chronometer is a high-quality diver for a reasonable price point.
The stainless steel case measures 43.5mm and sits on the wrist at 14.6mm. The timepiece features a rotatable ceramic bezel in dark blue, which contrasts nicely with the gradient dial that starts from a black center and progressively gets lighter shades of blue to the outer rim.
The white, silver-lined indexes are a mix of circles, squares, and a triangle at twelve o’clock. There’s also a date window at 3 o’clock. The chunky silver/gray hour and minute hands are complemented by a gray lollipop seconds hand with an orange tip. Both the bezel, the dial markings, and the hands are filled with Super-LumiNova, for readability on those dark water dives.
The face of the watch is protected by a sapphire crystal and the screw-down crown, with partial side crown guards and screw-down caseback with the Star logo, proves water resistance up to 600 meters. There’s even a helium escape valve. All of those elements make this a serious diver’s watch. The timepiece is powered by a COSC-certified automatic movement with a power reserve of up to 80 hours.
The stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp and diver’s extension system is nicely finished with contrasting satin outer links with polished inner links. The timepiece has pretty much anything one would be looking for in a diver. The watch comes in three different configurations, including a black dial against stainless steel and one all-black version.
The Mido Baroncelli Chronometer Silicon Gent is a refined timepiece for gentlemen of substance and taste. Supposedly inspired by the blissful and eternal aesthetic of stringed instruments, this design is one to be admired.
The round stainless steel case measures 40mm and sits on the wrist at a thin 9.4mm. The horizontally brushed anthracite dial with gold-toned applied indexes and hands are the epitome of class. There’s also a date window at three o’clock.
The face of the timepiece is protected by a sapphire crystal with double-sided anti-reflection treatment. The open caseback displays the COSC-certified Mido automatic chronometer with a power reserve of 80 hours. The timepiece is paired with a brown embossed cow leather that simulates an alligator leather look and is fitted with a folding clasp.
It’s a straightforward design that is sure to solicit admiration. There are also four other configurations of this model with white and blue dials that, in one case, has a black leather strap and, in the other, a stainless steel bracelet.
If you’re looking for a timepiece with a stand-out, unique design, this is it. Inspired by the Eiffel Tower in Paris, the Mido Commander Gradient is one to behold. There’s a blue-gray ringed internal bezel under the glass with an inner date wheel. At the center is an open view of the movement.
The hands and indices are modern and gray. The stainless steel case measures 40mm and sits on the wrist at 10.8mm thick. The face of the watch is protected by sapphire crystal. The see-through caseback displays the 80 caliber, 25-jewel, Mido automatic ETA movement, with a date function and 80 hours of power reserve.
The watch is water resistant to 50 meters and features a balance spring to protect against shock and magnetism. The timepiece is paired with a gray stainless steel modern-styled bracelet with a folding clasp.
Price: $960
14. MIDO OCEAN STAR 200C TITANIUM REF. M042.430.44.051.00
I’m not sure what architectural wonder Mido is claiming inspired this timepiece, but to my eye, it looks an awful lot like the Omega Seamaster Diver. There’s nothing wrong with a tribute to the iconic Seamaster, if that’s the case, as it is a true classic.
The Mido Ocean Star 200C comes in a titanium case and measures 42.5mm, and sits on the wrist at 12.3mm thick, which isn’t too bad for a diver. The black dial has a horizontal wave pattern with round indices and a triangle at twelve o’clock. There’s also a day and date window at three o’clock.
The screw-down caseback and crown, with partial side crown guards, give the watch a 200-meter water resistance, which should be plenty unless you’re a professional. The Mido caliber 80 automatic ETA movement is the one we’ve previously detailed.
The bracelet is a dark gray titanium with a folding clasp and diving extension system. This model comes in a total of five configurations, including green, blue, black, and gray dials with stainless steel and rubber strap options.
The Mido Baroncelli Smiling Moon Gent timepiece is a beautiful work of art on the wrist. The first thing that grabs the attention is the large aperture on the dial, which Mido describes as a smile, revealing the eight phases of the moon against a blue starry night sky, on a rotating wheel.
The sandpaper white dial with black Roman numerals and applied indexes is a classy touch. The sword-styled, shaded white-silver hour and minute hands, along with the sharp blue second hand, look elegant against a white background. The stainless steel case measures 39mm in diameter and an ultra-thin 7.3mm in thickness.
The open caseback reveals the Mido automatic ETA movement with a power reserve of 72 hours. It’s water resistant to 30 meters, which is basically splash resistant. The upmarket multilink stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp completes the timepiece. The watch comes in four different configurations with a blue dial option and a version for the ladies in a pink gold tone.
Mido delivers a smashing two-register chrono with their Mido Multifort Patrimony Chronograph. The timepiece pays tribute to their 1937 Multichrono. The domed dial under the sapphire crystal features a tachymeter scale.
The black dial, with contrasting gray subdials, includes gray hands and white numerals. At twelve o’clock there’s a vintage Mido logo and at six o’clock a date window. The stainless steel case measures 42mm and sits on the wrist at 15.2mm thick.
Under the hood, one will find Mido’s automatic ETA, with a 60-hour power reserve that includes functions of date, chronograph, and small seconds. The watch is water resistant to 50 meters.
The strap is black leather that simulates alligator leather with a stainless steel tang buckle. At these prices, you think Mido could spring for real alligator leather and a folding clasp, but overall it’s a nice timepiece. The watch also comes in a gold-tone version.
Price: $2,260
17. MIDO OCEAN STAR GMT REF. M026.629.11.041.00
The Mido Ocean Star GMT is a handsome little number that has all the right features. The rotating ceramic bezel is navy blue for diving. There’s an inner GMT bezel that gets the Pepsi treatment and blue dial.
The applied indices are stacked double squares at twelve and six o’clock; the rest are rectangular. There’s a date window at 3 o’clock. The watch has stubby skeletonized hour and minute hands in gray, a gray seconds hand with a red tip, and a red GMT hand.
The timepiece boasts a screw-down crown and water resistance of 200 meters. The Mido-modified ETA automatic movement has an 80-hour power reserve with date and GMT functions. Since this is a special edition model, the watch comes with two straps, a Nato with a tang buckle and a stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp and diver extension system.
This is a unique timepiece that offers the best of both worlds, a GMT function for pilots and world travels, plus all the diver functions that Ocean Stars are known for. There are a few different configurations, including versions with a black dial, a two-tone rose gold (PVD-coated) and steel version, and one with a blue synthetic strap.
Price: $1,460
18. MIDO BARONCELLI BIG DATE REF. M027.426.36.018.00
This is another model in the Baroncelli Big Date collection, perhaps for those with low vision or those who want a dial to “screams” the date at them. I’m sure Mido has more sophisticated reasons for their big date, but those are my guesses. This is a classic dress watch with a 40mm rose gold (PVD coated) case that sits on the wrist at 10.4mm.
There are a number of subtle touches to the finishing of this timepiece that demonstrate Mido’s commitment to detail and quality, such as the double gadroon bezel and double-sided hands. The watch offers a white dial with rose gold-tone hands and applied index with a Roman numeral at twelve o’clock and a large date window in the opposite position.
The open case back reveals Mido’s automatic ETA with its 80-hour power reserve. This watch has a 30-meter water resistance and is paired with an alligator-like black leather strap with a folding clasp. The timepiece comes with a two-year warranty and weighs 70 grams. There are a couple of other configurations available with multilink steel bracelets, one of them two-tone with rose (PVD coated) gold.
Price: $1,050
19. MIDO BELLUNA ROYAL GENT REF. M024.507.16.041.00
This is another good-looking dress watch from Mido. It’s all about the dial with this one. The under-the-hood mechanics are solid, but it’s the dial that stands out. The Mido Belluna Royal Gent we’re examining here is a guilloché-style sunray motif.
Atop the blue dial are silver sword-style hands and silver applied indexes. There’s also a date window at 3 o’clock. The cushion-shaped stainless steel case measures 41.8mm and sits on the wrist at 10.1mm.
The face of the watch is protected by a sapphire crystal, there’s a signed crown and it’s water resistant to 50 meters. The timepiece is powered by Mido’s automatic ETA movement with an 80-hour power reserve.
The case has contrasting satin and polished surfaces, and it’s paired with a black alligator leather strap with a folding clasp. This model comes in four different configurations, including some with silver and dark gray dials and those with stainless steel bracelets and gold-tone options.
Price: $840
20. MIDO OCEAN STAR DECOMPRESSION WORLD TIMER REF. M026.829.17.041.00
We saved one of the best models for last. The Mido Ocean Star Decompression World Timer created quite a splash in the world of watchmaking design recently and has centered more attention on Mido. It’s a busy, fun, funky dial with some Aloha vibes. Mido describes it as an “irresistible neo-vintage style” with its bright colors, antique notes, and modern technology.
I don’t usually favor a busy dial, but I can see this on my wrist while I surf the Waikiki waves. The dial features various shades of blue, yellow, and salmon. There are white-silver lined hour, minute, and second hands, plus a red GMT hand.
There’s a date window at 3 o’clock. Various scales are displayed on the dial, including a decompression timer. The outer blue GMT bezel displays cities from around the world. The stainless steel case measures 40.5mm and sits on the wrist at 13.4mm.
The timepiece is powered by Mido’s automatic ETA movement with GMT and date functions. It’s water resistant to 200 meters and features a signed screw-down crown. This is a great all-rounder that performs well in active water sports but also offers GMT functions for pilots and world travelers. Seems like the perfect watch for a Hawaiian Airlines pilot. The timepiece comes with two straps, a blue synthetic strap with a pin buckle, and a mesh stainless steel bracelet.
Price: $1,310
Parting Thoughts
I hope you’ve enjoyed our tour of the world of Mido watches. They’re an under-the-radar brand that deserves another look. They offer some excellent collections that have stood the test of time.
From their cool Ocean Star divers to their iconic Commander, inspired by noteworthy architecture from around the world, to their versatile Multifort, there’s something for everyone. I especially appreciate their finishing quality, consistency, and attention to detail. They’ve also got the right engineering chops and track record to prove it. Check them out; you won’t be disappointed.
Long before planes were invented, humans dreamed of flying. Centuries ago in Greek mythology, there lived Icarus, son of Daedalus, a mythical inventor who constructed wings out of feathers and wax. The wings were to aid the duo in flying out of Crete, where they were held captive by King Minos.
Taking to flight with unfathomable excitement, Icarus soon forgot his father’s warnings and flew too close to the sun. His wings melted, and he died, but the myth implied that man’s innate desire to fly would be impossible.
Yet the desire lived on, and on December 17th, 1903, the Wright brothers invented the world’s first successful motor-operated airplane. The wish to soar through the atmosphere was now granted, but another need was created, namely a timepiece to help the pilots keep track of their flying time.
Positioned more as statement pieces today than critical tools used in the air, pilot’s watches were launched to serve as timing devices for aviators. Nothing best captures the intrigue and excitement of a navigator’s lifestyle like a pilot’s watch.
This is why we put together a comprehensive list of the best pilot watches to satisfy your aeronautical fantasies. Enjoy!
About Pilot Watches
During the early decades of aviation, there was no such thing as aeronautical timing devices. Pilots desperately needed a timer because the timing was a vital element in nearly every aviation-related calculation.
To meet this pressing lack, timing devices were created to help pilots with simple calculations and keep accurate flight times. The first was a small gold watch with a square face and exposed screws, constructed by Louis Cartier.
Aviation watches are considered to be one of the first real onboard “computers” for pilots. They often feature specific characteristics and functionalities that are useful for flight-related activities.
All pilots’ watches are designed with aviators in mind; thus, the dials have a highly legible display, large enough to be read when flying.
Many pilot’s watches include chronograph complications, which enable pilots to measure elapsed time for various tasks, such as flight calculations and navigation.
The pilot’s watch saw innovations to make an aviator’s job even easier, and many of them on the market today incorporate useful features.
These include dual time zone displays, integrated slide rule bezels or E6B flight computers, and anti-magnetic and shock-resistant constructions to help protect the timekeeping accuracy of the watch.
While not a universal feature, many pilot’s watches offer water resistance to varying degrees. This is useful for pilots who may encounter wet conditions or work around water bodies during their operations.
History of Pilot Watches
The history of pilot’s watches dates back to the early days of aviation when reliable timekeeping was crucial for navigation and flight operations.
According to connoisseurs, the story begins in 1904 when Brazilian pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont asked his friend Louis Cartier to design a watch specifically for his aviation needs.
The innovative Cartier came up with a wristwatch that featured a square case with the unmistakable sapphire cabochon crown, a large dial with Roman numerals, and a simple design.
The World War began in 1914 and ushered in major changes in aviation. The demands of military aviation during World War I led to the development of dedicated pilot’s watches. The British Royal Flying Corps issued watches to their pilots featuring large, easily readable dials and robust construction.
The growth in pilot watches escalated, and during the 1930s and World War II, German watchmakers such as A. Lange & Söhne, IWC, and Stowa produced pilot watches known as “Fliegeruhren.” Alongside timekeeping, pilots required watches with additional features for navigation. Chronographs, which included stopwatch functionality, became popular among aviators.
Brands like Breitling and Longines produced chronograph watches with various scales and additional subdials for measuring elapsed time, calculating distances, and performing other calculations.
Today, pilot’s watches continue to be extremely popular not only among pilots but also among watch collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate their functionality, aesthetics, and historical significance.
The Best Pilot Watches
Seiko Pilot Chronograph SNN241
Seiko’s contribution to the aviation industry has been relatively minor; however, not including a watch from the Japanese giant watchmaker would be a transgression. There may not be tons of dedicated pilot watches from the brand, but the SNN241 meets and exceeds the criteria for an aviation watch.
Behold one of the best watches available in the sub-$150 price range! If you’re a fan of classic pilot watches and looking for a no-nonsense watch with suitable military vibes, look no further.
Seiko offers this solid, value-priced chronograph that is large and easy to read in a 42.6 mm stainless case with a thickness of 11 mm. The tactical watch has a clean brown dial with contrasting white numerals and indices, offering excellent readability.
There are minute markers around the outer rim of the dial, and the watch also has two sub-dials for measuring chronograph functions and a date window at 6 o’clock. It is powered by the Seiko Caliber 7T94 and is worn on a comfortable contrast-stitched leather band with buckle closure.
AVI-8 Timepieces Gutersloh (ref. AV-4088-22)
AVI-8 was founded in 2012 by a combination of pilots, watchmakers, and engineers. The watch brand is known for its unique and functional design, which draws inspiration from aircraft and aviation history.
At about $160, the Gutersloh Ref. AV-4088-22 is a stunning, straightforward timepiece that pays tribute to Britain’s distinguished military aviators who gave their lives for a worthy cause during WWII. It is presented in a stainless steel case that measures 43mm across and is 12mm thick.
The dial features an army-blue color which is a distinct addition that stands out from the majority of pilot watches with black or blue faces. The design elements are inspired by the aircraft’s cockpit instruments and aesthetics, so you will find two recessed subdials at 9′ and 3′, enclosed by cockpit instrument-style frames.
There is a highly legible dial with bold applied Arabic and baton indexes, all coated with Swiss lume on a matte canvas. There’s also a date window at 6 o’clock and an additional orange-colored hour hand to indicate time in a different time zone.
Orient Pilot’s Sports Watch (ref. RA-AC0H04Y)
Orient has a timepiece for everyone. From elegant dress watches to rugged divers and, of course, pilot’s watches, the brand is getting increasingly popular in the watch community. At $200, the Ref. RA-AC0H04Y is an effortlessly functional pilot’s watch that offers exceptional value for money.
The 42.4mm stainless steel case is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters. The layout of the beige dial emphasizes easy readability and a tool-like feel. The dial has a large minute ring on the perimeter with a distinctive black print.
There is a date display located at the third hour, and the face of the watch is protected by a mineral crystal. The watch is worn on a stylish all-occasion brown leather strap with contrasting light stitching. It is powered by the Orient caliber F6722, an in-house self-winding automatic movement with 22 jewels and a power reserve of 40 hours.
Citizen Chandler Pilot Chronograph (ref. CA0621-05L)
Citizen is an absolutely legendary watch manufacturer that has been around for over 100 years. Known for its high-quality, technical and affordable timepieces, the Japanese watch company is respected for adding eco-mindfulness as a core value.
Since it launched its first light-powered timepiece with proprietary Eco-Drive technology in 1976, thousands of exceptional watches with outstanding build quality and innovative technology have followed.
The Pilot Chronograph Ref. CA0621-05L is a reasonably priced aviation watch that stays true to original pilot watches used during World War II. The stainless steel case is relatively large at 42mm in diameter and features flat protruding lugs, which will make it feel a bit bigger than it is.
With 100 meters of water resistance and a screw-down crown, this timepiece can be worn comfortably in the air, at ground level, and underwater for activities like swimming. The iris blue dial has a lot of information but is highly legible and uncluttered. The watch features Citizen’s Eco-Drive technology, which works by running off light as its power source and retails for $230.
Citizen Promaster Altichron (ref. BN5058-07E)
Honoring the world of pilots and aviation is the Promaster Altichron Ref. BN5058-07E. Many pilot watches are purely technical, and only a few standout pieces can combine technicality with pure aesthetics as this one does.
Encased within a 47 x 11mm stainless steel case with prominent pushers and crown, the Altichron over delivers the attributes required for a top-notch aviation watch. First off, the titanium bezel features a compass ring, and on the inside, you’ll find an altimeter, which measures altitude.
The dial is pretty busy, no doubt, but this is a function-packed watch that was designed to work well up to 32,000ft above sea level. Plus, it has a water-resistant rating of 200 meters. Talk about cool!!
On the black dial with red accents, one finds large SuperLuminova-coated Arabic numerals, large sword-shaped hands, and a date window at 3 o’clock. Altogether, the watch is all about functionality and readability. Like most watches from Citizen, the Ref. BN5058-07E is powered by the brand’s Eco-drive solar movement. It retails for $595 and comes fitted with a black rubber strap.
Headquartered in the southwestern German town of Pforzheim, Laco is generally regarded as the originator of the German Pilot Watch. The brand, which was founded by Frieda Lacher and Ludwig Hummel, has been an established part of the German luxury watch scene since the 1920s.
Inspired by pilot’s and deck watches from the 1930s, the Augsburg 42 Ref. 861688.2 is a robust aviator watch presented in a sleek brushed 42mm case with a solid screw-down crown. The dial is pretty straightforward with a simple matte black finish. It is adorned with rectangular minute indices and Arabic numerals for marking the hours.
The hands and indices are legible even in low light thanks to ample punchy-green lume. Protecting this dial is a double-domed sapphire crystal. It retails for $420 on the brand’s website and comes fitted with a brown calfskin leather strap.
Seiko Flightmaster SNA411
Imagine trying to navigate a mountain range in a blizzard without a reliable watch. From long-haul flights to snorkeling trips, the Seiko Flightmaster SNA411 is the ultimate adventurer’s watch.
Whether you’re a pilot or aviation enthusiast searching for an accurate, sturdy, reliable, and affordable watch that looks good, too, this military-grade and rugged timepiece is your best bet. The Seiko Flightmaster SNA411 is an impressive chronograph watch presented in a finely brushed case that measures 42mm across and has a thickness of 13mm.
The stainless steel case is matched with a 20mm wide bracelet that flawlessly combines polished and brushed finishes. It also has three sub-dials for compass, stopwatch, and alarm, which makes the dial pretty interesting to stare at. The quartz-powered watch has been discontinued but is readily available in the secondary market for around $480
Atmoss SR-01 Everyday Pilots Watch
Based in Brisbane, Australia, Atmoss is a relatively new kid in the vast world of watchmaking, but it is in no wise the least! If you want a sleek pilot’s watch that combines next-level durability with avant-garde technology, this is your best pick.
What better person to construct a pilot’s watch than a man with a history of flying low-tech planes himself? I’m talking about Warrick Bettany, the man behind Atmoss Watches. The innovator has been pretty busy rolling off some of the best aviation watches that preserve the old-school tradition of getting things done analogically.
First things first, the case of the Everyday Pilots Watch has a diameter of 41mm, a thickness of 10.5mm, and a lug-to-lug of 48.5mm. The functionality of the watch begins with the two matching logarithmic scales or slide rules — one on the bezel and one on the chapter ring on the outer perimeter of the dial.
The pure aesthetics of the white dial with blue and red accents add a touch of aviation-inspired romance. Keeping the price of this elegant watch down to $480 is a solid movement; the Japanese Miyota 9039 with a modest 42-hour power reserve. The watch has a water-resistant rating of 100 meters and is worn on a metal bracelet or FKM rubber strap.
Bulova Pilot A-15 (ref. 96A245)
If you’re looking for a graceful aviator’s watch with a timeless design and thick feel, the Pilot A-15 Ref. 96A245 comes highly recommended. On request from the US Army Air Force Air Technical Service Command, the original A-15 was initially designed in 1943 to solve very critical flight-related problems for pilots at the time. Unfortunately, the watch never made it out of the testing phase for some reason or another.
The project was thus suspended, but 76 years later, Bulova deemed it necessary to release the watch to the general public. The Ref. 96A245 is a reinterpretation of the A-15 “Elapsed Time Watch” and is presented in a 42mm stainless steel case with narrow lugs and three crowns at the 2, 3, and 4 o’clock positions. The crown at 2 rotates the internal bezel measuring elapsed time, while the four o’clock crown controls a second-time zone or elapsed hours.
The dial might seem a bit complex at first glance since it features about four concentric rings, but everything is neatly arranged and harmonious. The watch is powered by the Miyota 82S6 movement with 21 jewels and a 42-hour power reserve. It is worn on a brown leather strap and retails for about $650.
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Chrono Quartz (ref. H76522131)
Hamilton is an American watchmaker, now owned by Swatch Group. The brand has been an iconic name in the field of military and aviation-inspired timepieces with a long tradition of delivering quality and precise ‘trench’ watches. In 1994, Hamilton was named the official wristwatch supplier for the American Armed Forces. The former glory the Swiss watchmaker had has been revived in the Khaki Aviation collection today.
Modeled after some of the famous pilot’s chronographs produced by Hamilton for the British Royal Air Force in the 1970s, the Ref. H76522131 is a watch that captures the daring spirit of a pilot like no other. The case is made of stainless steel and has a large notched crown flanked by two pump pushers.
It measures 41mm across with a thickness of 12.47mm, so it’s a no-nonsense watch that is slightly cumbersome. The dial is clean, uncluttered, and highly legible, with luminous markers and a bi-compax display. It has a water-resistant rating of 100 meters, and the dial is well protected with a sapphire crystal, so you can trust this watch to accompany you on your daily missions. It is powered by a quartz movement and retails for about $750.
Yema Flygraf Pilot M2 (ref. YFLY2020-CAS)
Yema is a French watch brand that is seriously underrated for one simple reason; it does not have the words ‘Swiss Made’ plastered all over the dial of its watches. This is very disheartening as the France-based company has consistently demonstrated remarkable mastery in watchmaking since its founding in the 1940s.
The Flygraf collection turns timekeeping into a worthy expedition for those interested in utilitarian watches for the outdoors. All the models in this collection are designed and constructed by brand and professional aerobatic pilot Sammy Mason.
With a vintage-inspired design arising out of military field watches from the Second World War, the focus is obviously on aviation themes. The Ref. YFLY2020-CAS is a watch with a clear spirit of adventure and comes in a brushed 316L stainless steel case that measures 39mm across. A sapphire crystal protects the matte gray dial, adorned by Arabic numerals and indexes, all treated with Superluminova BGW9.
The watch is water resistant to a depth of 300 meters, so you can confidently take command of both sky and sea! It retails for about $750 and is powered by the YEMA2000 in-house caliber with a power reserve of 42 hours.
Farer Morgan Pilot Watch
British watch brand Farer was established in 2015 with one simple goal; to make affordable automatic watches for all. If you’re looking for an affordable purpose-driven timepiece befitting a fighter pilot, the Morgan Pilot Watch is just the watch you need.
Farer might not be a name you hear quite often, but the fast-growing brand is capturing millions of enthusiasts around the globe thanks to its superlative build quality and tried-and-true aesthetics. The aviation-inspired watch comes in a highly polished stainless steel case that measures a fitting 39.5mm in diameter with a height of 12.5mm (including domed sapphire crystal).
The matte black dial has two rings for speedy reading, with outer minute markings and the hours on the inside. Farer is known for combining bold colors and contrasting textures beautifully. The Pilot Watch has hour/minute alpha-styled hour and minute hands outlined in Royal blue, while the sweeping second hand tip is finished in beacon red.
Encased in a soft-iron Faraday cage is the SW200-1 caliber. It is an anti-magnetic automatic movement that delivers up to eight times the standard level of anti-magnetic protection. The watch is fitted with an over-stitched American Horween leather strap and retails for approximately $990.
Vaer A12 Dirty Dozen
Founded in 2016 by Ryan Torres and Reagan Cook, Vaer is a watch brand that does everything right. The California-based watchmaker has a strong reputation for producing high-quality tool watches with impressive design elements. Dirty Dozen is a group of legendary watches made within the last two years of World War II.
Twelve watch manufacturers were tasked with supplying these military watches for the British Army hence the name. Vaer decided to pay homage to this military timekeeping icon by releasing this functional, attractive, and utilitarian watch.
Encased in a sleek 36mm 316L stainless steel case dominated by brushed surfaces, the A12 Dirty Dozen is an everyday utility watch designed to not be too cumbersome or clunky on your wrist. With a tightly sealed case back and large screw-down crown design that maintains an airtight seal, a water resistance rating of 100 meters is guaranteed.
The watch is incredibly slim and comfortable on the wrist, boasting a thickness of about 10 mm. According to the brand, the dial features up to 25 layers of SuperLuminova, with a lume performance rating of 8/10. The watch retails for $899 and is powered by a Swiss-made Sellita SW260-1 automatic movement with a power reserve of approximately 42 hours.
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer (ref. H76205530)
Stand by for take-off with Hamilton’s versatile companion. This one is a true pilot’s watch for adventurers and explorers seeking a timepiece with great accuracy.
The Ref. H76205530 draws inspiration from the Model 23, a cutting-edge pocket navigational chronograph pocket watch made for the US Army Air Forces during WWII. The watch is presented in a 38mm stainless steel case with a thickness of 11.4mm and a lug width of 18mm.
As you’d expect from a military reissue, the dial is ultra-legible numerals with Arabic numerals, cathedral-styled hands, and a railway track outer scale. The face of the watch has a sandpaper-like finish that gives the timepiece a luxurious touch. It is protected by the highly scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and matched with a calf leather strap.
On the inside, you’ll find Hamilton’s caliber H-10 with a 3Hz beat rate and a remarkable power reserve of 80 hours. The watch is water resistant up to 100 meters and retails for about $1000.
Hamilton Khaki Aviation X-Wind Day Date Auto (ref. H77785733)
The Khaki Aviation X-Wind (please do not say ‘ex-wind’, it’s pronounced ‘crosswind’) is probably the first drift-angle calculating timepiece. If you’re just a watch enthusiast like me, you’ll probably not care so much about this function. However, the crosswind feature is useful for pilots as it enables them to accurately calculate and record crosswind components with the internal rotating bezel.
The Ref. H77785733 comes in a PVD-coated stainless steel case that has a diameter of 45mm and a thickness of 12.8mm, so yeah, this is not for the faint-hearted. The dial has a lot going on, but there’s a harmonious symmetry interplaying between all the components. Bold Arabic numerals in white generously coated with Super-LumiNova make time reading seamless even in the dark.
The sword hands and day-date window at 9 o’clock also keep the dial looking pretty cool and balanced. The entire watch has a black glossy appearance and comes with prominent crowns on both sides. The X-Wind Day Date Auto is powered by Hamilton’s caliber H-30 with a power reserve of approximately 80 hours. It retails for $1,335 and is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters.
Stowa Flieger Classic Sport 43mm
German luxury watchmaker Stowa has been on fire lately. If you’re looking for a watch that can go anywhere and do anything, this is the one. Since 1937, the brand has been producing classic watches in the style of Bauhaus. Flieger or B-Uhren watches were specially designed for German armed forces (the Deutsche Luftwaffe) tasked with air defense.
The watches were designed to be the most legible timepieces on earth while offering top-notch robustness and accuracy at the same time. Luckily for you, a fat wallet or giant’s wrist isn’t a prerequisite to secure the look and feel of a Flieger, as Stowa presents a faithful interpretation of the B-Uhren watches for about $1,500. The sports watch is encased in an excellently finished 43 mm stainless steel case with a height of 12.8 mm.
With a water resistance of 200 meters, you can confidently take this watch straight from the skies to the oceans. The breathtaking matte black dial is flawlessly executed and decked with temperature-blued steel hands with a generous coating of C3 Super Lumi-Nova. The watch is powered by the Sellita SW215-1 mechanical movement with a power reserve of 42 hours.
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Converter Auto Chrono (ref. H76746140)
Hamilton has contributed a great deal to the aviation sector by creating precision watches for professional pilots for over a century. Between 1965 and 1976, the brand manufactured almost 40,000 wristwatches for the British military. When I think of Hamilton, my mind immediately jumps to the robust instruments for professionals, such as the X-Wind timepieces supplied to air racers.
The Khaki Aviation Converter Auto Chrono continues the brand’s history of serving the flying community well and is just the watch you need to keep up with your inexhaustible lust for aeronautical adventure. The stainless steel case measures 44mm across and has a thickness of 14.6mm, so now you can have a look-good watch peeking out from under your dress shirt.
The most notable feature of this watch is the slide rule bezel, also known as the “logarithmic bezel”. This feature was a crucial tool for pilots who needed to perform basic calculations involving multiplications, divisions, exponents, roots, or logarithms.
The Converter bears the spirit of those instrument watches from the 1940s but adds a good dose of futuristic aesthetics, as can be seen in its gorgeous blue dial that evokes visions of clear skies. It retails for $2,300 and comes equipped with the H-21-Si movement with silicone hairsprings for increased performance and accuracy.
The Oris Big Crown Pro Pilot was first released during the early decades of aviation, one year before World War ll began. Since the second world war was mostly fought in the air, the demand for pilots’ watches skyrocketed, and Oris, founded about 30 years prior, stepped up to the challenge.
The watch was a flight instrument with a highly legible dial, robust movement with accurate timing, and a large crown of about 8mm to aid operation with gloves on. The Ref. 01 748 7710 4164-07 5 22 14FC bears the iconic design elements that distinguished the first Big Crown Pro Pilot.
It comes in a 45mm case equipped with a screw-down crown (100 meters) and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating inside. The lug width is 22mm, and the watch is matched with a comfortable olive textile strap with stainless steel folding clasp.
The black dial features a GMT function that allows the wearer to track time in two different time zones simultaneously. It also has a subsidiary dial for the seconds at 9 o’clock and large Arabic numerals and hands coated with Superluminova BG W9. A see-through mineral glass caseback reveals the Oris 748 caliber, which is based on the SW 220-1. This automatic movement has 28 jewels, beats at a rate of 28’800 vph, and provides a power reserve of 38 hours. Enjoy this Swiss-made luxury for $2,500.
Sinn 144 St Sa Chronograph (ref. 144.066)
To not include a watch from German watchmaker Sinn would be a sin (sorry too tempting). Not only have pilot watches been part of the Sinn’s repertoire for over five decades, but the brand was also founded in 1961 by flight instructor and pilot Helmut Sinn!
The luxury watchmaker is renowned across the globe for making expert pilot’s watches that can withstand the harshest and most extreme conditions in the skies, on land, and deep in the ocean. It’s not just the day-date display and chronograph function that sets it apart.
This watch is equipped with a unique Ar-Dehumidifying Technology and lubricant-free anchor escapement that enhances functional reliability and freedom from fogging. The 41mm x 14.2 stainless steel case is topped with sapphire crystal glass in front and a transparent case back, also made of sapphire crystal.
The killer watch comes with a waterproof and pressure-resistant rating of 200 meters and combines a tachymeter and pulsometer scale instead of a rotatable bezel. A new 144 St Sa Chronograph on a leather or silicone strap costs around $2,400, while one on a stainless steel bracelet demands around $2,600.
Junghans Meister Pilot (ref. 27/3794.00)
Find yourself a more enchanting pilot’s watch; I’ll wait. German brand Junghans has been creating durable mechanical cockpit clocks since the early 20th century. If you are a hardcore adventurist seeking a reliable and elegant pilot’s watch to help you keep your eye on the prize, the Ref. 27/3794.00 is your best bet.
The Meister line is the top dog of the brand’s offerings, and though it was initially lined up with dress watches, the brand decided to ditch the status quo with some welcome additions. Pulling inspiration from control panel instruments that the Junghans manufactured for airplanes and airships in the 1930s, the Ref. 27/3794.00 is a classic mechanical pilot’s watch with a unique twist.
The watch is accurate, reliable, and extremely functional, with a beautifully sculpted case measuring 43.3mm in diameter and 14.4mm. The stainless steel case is DLC coated with scalloped grooves on the side and a bi-directional turning bezel. The brown-gray lacquered dial is highly legible and is protected by a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on both sides. The watch is powered by the J880.4 movement with 38 hours of power reserve and retails for approximately $2,800.
This is a pilot watch that embodies everything precision. It boasts of a legacy that spans over a century and comes in collaboration with Air Zermatt. The watch functions as a wrist-, cockpit-, and table watch.
Having a touch of exclusivity it is limited to only 1,999 pieces, it features a bi-directional turning flange for convenient countdown recording. The watch comes with a black dial housed within a stainless steel case with PVD black coating with a measurement of 46mm.
It is powered by an H-31 automatic movement and boasts a 60-hour power reserve. The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal ensures durability, while the black calf leather strap is fastened by a pin buckle. The watch is pegged at $3,295.00, as it exemplifies the perfect fusion of functionality and craftsmanship.
TAG Heuer Autavia (ref. WBE5116.FC8266)
This is a vintage-inspired luxury chronograph watch that combines a retro flair with advanced technology, creating a truly remarkable accessory. It comes with a 42mm steel case and a gradient smoked blue dial.
The watch houses the Caliber 5 movement which ensures impeccable accuracy. Its brown calfskin strap pays homage to the brand’s aviation heritage, while the bidirectional turning bezel, made from ceramic, adds a modern touch to the classic design.
The TAG Heuer Autavia has an “orange peel” texture, complemented by Super-LumiNova-treated silver-toned numerals and hands. When you flip the watch over, you’ll see the iconic engraving of an airplane propeller inside a steering wheel. The TAG Heuer Autavia is a complete leather strap timepiece priced at $3,500. The watch is considered the perfect blend of heritage and performance
Longines Avigation Type A-7 (ref. L2.812.4.53.2)
The Longines Company is rooted in the watchmaking tradition. It’s no surprise they crafted the Longines Avigation Type A-7, as a testament to their commitment to excellence. The watch commands instant attention with its seamless elegance.
Measuring 41mm in diameter and 14.10mm in thickness, the stainless steel watch showcases a black dial adorned with silvered polished hands. The timepiece is powered by automatic movement with a 60-hour power reserve.
The Ref. L2.812.4.53.2 was designed with great attention to detail such that its brown alligator leather strap with white stitching adds a touch of warmth and refinement. Additionally, it comes with a steel triple safety folding clasp and push-piece opening mechanism. At $4,570, this charming watch offers you the perfect blend of heritage and technology to command the skies.
The Breitling Aviator 8 Automatic 41 is a pretty cool watch that would make an excellent choice for fashion-conscious adventurers.
The Ref. A17315101B1A1 comes in a sleek 41mm case that has been finished to the highest sheen. The dial is enchanting with its luminous-filled hands and Arabic numeral hour markers to ensure easy readability.
It is powered by the COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 17 automatic movement. Additionally, it offers precise timekeeping with a 38-hour power reserve. The watch is fitted with a stainless steel bracelet that has a folding clasp and a safety latch. Expect to shell out approximately $3,150 for a new piece.
The Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph is a masterpiece pilot’s watch renowned for anyone looking for an enduring companion. The watch demonstrates Montblanc’s commitment to tradition and storytelling.
The Ref. MB117836 has a 42mm case with a satin finish that strikes the right balance between retro and futuristic aesthetics. The black dial has a bi-compass counter at 3 and 9 o’clock, which exudes contemporary allure but also evokes a warm vintage charm.
The watch comes with bi-pushers for seamless activation of the chronograph, while its automatic, self-winding MB 25.11 movement ensures precision. It is water-resistant up to 100 meters and is mounted on a beige leather strap. If you wish to own this timepiece, you should be ready to part away with at least $5,400.
Fortis Flieger F-43 Triple-GMT (ref. F4260000)
Fortis is a brand that has a legacy rooted in space exploration. The independent Swiss watchmaker has accompanied astronauts to achieve horological milestones for nearly a century. As early as 1994, the brand was selected to supply precision watches for the Russian space program ROSCOSMOS.
The Ref. F4260000 is crafted for pilots and comes with a titanium case and bracelet, housing a Swiss mechanical movement with a 70-hour power reserve. Its GMT function allows for tracking a second-time zone, while its COSC certification ensures time accuracy.
The dial is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and the markers and handset are lumed to enhance legibility. The watch comes with a 43mm case diameter and is considered a robust timepiece fit for any adventure.
Get ready to embrace the spirit of exploration with the reliable, durable, and fortified Fortis Flieger F-43 Triple-GMT. The watch can be gotten from the brand’s website for $5,507
This pilot watch is a timepiece that embodies the adventurous spirit of the Longines brand. Boasting a rich heritage of legendary pioneers in their conquest of air, land, and sea, the brand drew inspiration from its remarkable history to birth the Longines Spirit Flyback.
The watch features a 42mm stainless steel case, a bi-directional rotating bezel with a ceramic insert, and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. The sunray dial is adorned with applied Arabic numerals and PVD bronze-colored hands, all illuminated by Swiss Super-LumiNova.
A transparent sapphire crystal offers a breathtaking view of the automatic Caliber L791. The movement boasts a monocrystalline silicon balance spring with a power reserve of up to 68 hours. The watch is available for around $4,500.
Bremont Martin-Baker MBII
In collaboration with Martin-Baker, a renowned British aviation company, Bremont flexes its muscles in horological expertise with this exceptional timepiece. The MBII is a symbol of resilience and was designed to withstand rigorous testing, including Live Ejection Testing and Extreme Temperature Endurance.
Its contemporary design features sleek numerals and a bronze-colored ‘military challenge coin’ on the case back, representing camaraderie and service. It is powered by a modified caliber 11 1/2″ BE-36AE automatic chronometer movement that keeps it precise and dependable.
It features a 43mm hardened stainless steel case that is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters. The contemporary dial has a clean look with Super-LumiNova coated indexes and hands that ensure clear visibility. It is further protected by a domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal that provides durability. Prices begin at $5,470.
IWC Mark XX (ref. IW328201)
The Mark XX is regarded as a perfect fusion of heritage and innovation. IWC is a renowned luxury watch brand established in 1868 that has consistently pushed the boundaries of watchmaking. The Ref. IW328201 is a testament to the luxury brand’s legacy.
It has a sleek 40mm stainless steel case and a captivating black dial; this watch exudes understated elegance with luminous hands and markers that ensure easy readability in any lighting. The watch is powered by the in-house IWC caliber 3211, a highly accurate and robust movement that boasts an impressive 120-hour power reserve.
It comes with a black leather strap which adds a touch of versatility, but no, it’s not a dress watch. You can purchase it for $6,050 from the brand’s website.
Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter (ref. BR0394-SW-CE/SRB)
Bell & Ross is a luxury watch brand renowned for its instrument watches designed for professionals. Inspired by aeronautical tools, the Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter is a timepiece that seamlessly blends functionality and style.
Limited to just 500 pieces, this watch showcases the power of the chronograph complication in the world of sports. It comes with the iconic “circle within a square” design, just like the emblematic cockpit clocks from the 1930s.
The matte black ceramic case measures 42mm in diameter and is 12.8mm thick, making it perfect for daily use. It has a captivating multicolor dial coupled with a sophisticated chronograph, which provides athletes with vital information during their physical activities.
The watch is crafted with precision and boasts double-weighted hands for optimal readability and two additional dial counters for enhanced functionality. Additionally, its water resistance threshold is up to 100 meters and will set you back $5,800 at the retail store.
If you’re daring and resilient, the Avenger B01 Chronograph 45 by Breitling is for you. Its robust 45mm stainless steel case, striking blue dial, and a choice of stainless steel bracelet or military leather strap qualify this timepiece as a symbol of strength. The watch was designed for adventurers who crave adrenaline.
Additionally, the Avenger B01 Chronograph 45 comes with a rugged bezel and glove-friendly grip pattern on the crown and pushers. It has a self-winding mechanical movement, the Breitling 01 caliber, with a 70-hour power reserve capacity.
The watch’s chronograph function, luminous numerals, and a water resistance of 300 meters add to its value. It measures 45mm in diameter and 15.7mm in thickness; the Avenger B01 Chronograph 45 is the perfect companion for the classic man. This limited edition timepiece can be yours for $7,500 and is considered an investment in both style and adventure.
Zenith Pilot Automatic (ref. 03.4000.3620/21.I001)
ZENITH is reputed for its pursuit of precision and exploration. Little wonder they introduced a timepiece that invites you to soar through the open skies. It comes with a 40mm steel case and an oversized crown, blending the brand’s aviation heritage with a contemporary touch. The black dial is adorned with luminous Arabic numerals and guides you through the dark with clarity.
The watch comes with interchangeable black Cordura-affect rubber and brown calfskin leather straps, giving you the flexibility to personalize your style effortlessly. The watch is powered by the El Primero 3620 automatic high-frequency manufacture movement with a power reserve of approximately 60 hours. The Zenith Pilot Automatic watch is priced at $7,500.
Cartier Santos Large (ref. WSSA0018)
Inspired by aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Santos Ref.WSSA0018 embodies the spirit of adventure and impeccable craftsmanship. The watch comes with a stainless steel case that measures 39.8 mm in diameter and 9.08 mm in thickness. The Santos showcases a silver-opaline dial adorned with Roman numeral hour markers and sword-shaped hands.
It is powered by an automatic movement, the caliber 1847 MC, which offers precise timekeeping with 23 jewels and a 42-hour power reserve capacity. The watch has a steel bracelet with the “SmartLink” adjustment system for a personalized fit. The Ref.WSSA0018 also includes an interchangeable calfskin strap. You can indulge in the luxurious lifestyle of those who own a Santos watch by shelling out $9,400.
Behold the Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition, a watch that honors its iconic ancestor with an unwavering commitment to detail. Breitling is a brand celebrated globally for its outstanding contribution to the aviation sector. In the 1930s, the Swiss Marque produced an aviator chronograph that helped pilots calculate elapsed time.
The brand here resurrects the essence of the original Navitimer from 1959 with a narrative of historic elegance. When you cop this watch, you get for yourself a 41mm stainless steel case, which mirrors the dimensions of its vintage muse with a height of 12.9mm. An alluring all-black dial reigns supreme with tone-on-tone small second, 30-minute, and 12-hour chronograph counters.
The Ref. 806 1959 is shielded by a gracefully domed Plexiglas and is powered by the COSC-certified hand-wound Breitling Manufacture Caliber B09. The robust movement exudes accuracy and reliability while boasting an impressive 70-hour power reserve. The watch is secured by a sleek black leather strap and is priced at $9,050.
After 70 years of captivating hearts, the Navitimer returns with a touch of modernity. Featuring a sleek profile, a domed crystal, and a lustrous interplay of polished and brushed metal elements, the B01 Chronograph 43 defines the collection’s renewed allure.
The dial shines in a captivating shade of black while the cherished AOPA wings once again grace the 12 o’clock position. It is encased in 43mm stainless steel and is powered by the reliable Breitling B01 movement. This self-winding mechanical wonder boasts a remarkable 70-hour power reserve capacity.
With its bidirectional slide rule, 1/4th-second chronograph, and water resistance of up to 3 bars, the Navitimer is ready for any adventure. You can embrace its legacy and its spirit of flight for $9,700.
IWC Big Pilot 43 Spitfire (ref. IW329701)
The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Spitfire is a timepiece that combines military heritage with contemporary style. IWC is known for its history of crafting watches for military pilots since the 1930s and has created remarkable watches inspired by its iconic designs.
The Ref. IW329701 comes in a durable titanium case that measures 43mm in diameter and 14.4mm in height. Its sapphire crystal and water resistance of up to 100 meters ensure its resilience. Powered by the Caliber 82100 movement, this watch offers precise timekeeping with a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour.
The legible dial pays homage to its military roots, while the brown calfskin strap adds a touch of elegance. Embrace the spirit of adventure with the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Spitfire for $8,950.
Rolex Air King (ref. 126900)
With a 40mm Oystersteel case and a sleek black dial, the Air King Ref. 126900 flawlessly combines aeronautical heritage with modern elegance. The dial features navigational time readings, large numerals at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, and the iconic Air-King lettering from the 1950s.
Crafted with corrosion-resistant Oystersteel, the watch is built to last and features an Oyster bracelet for durability and comfort. Powered by the Manufacture Rolex Caliber 3230, the Air-King provides precise timekeeping with a 70-hour power reserve.
Its scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and water resistance of up to 100 meters means you can take this beauty straight from the skies to the oceans. The highly legible Chromalight display shines with long-lasting blue luminescence, so this watch can be easily worn in a variety of scenarios. The luxury chronometer-certified watch is priced at $10,130.
Breitling Super AVI B04 Chronograph GMT 46 P-51 Mustang (ref. AB04453A1B1A1)
Breitling’s history is intertwined with the world of aviation. The Super AVI P-51 Mustang is inspired by a famed aircraft built by the North American Aviation Department in the 1940s.
The watch features a rugged 46mm case with an oversized crown and knurled bezel for optimal grip, even with gloved hands. Its dial features large Arabic numerals for excellent legibility, while the 24-hour marking on the inner bezel and the red-tipped GMT hand enables effortless tracking of a second-time zone.
Offering an impressive power reserve of 70 hours is the COSC-certified in-house movement, the Caliber B04. It is fitted with a stainless-steel bracelet and retails for $11,100.
IWC Big Pilot (ref. IW501001)
The Big Pilot Ref. IW501001 is a contemporary Illustration of the antique “B-Uhr” used by German pilots during WWII. The luxury watch is crafted in a round, entirely brushed stainless steel case with an oversized onion-shaped crown engraved with the IWC logo at 3′.
The watch’s face has a black metallic sunburst appearance that serves as a high-contrast background for the printing of the Arabic numerals, minutes track, and calendar indication. The mechanical self-winding 52110 movement with 31 jewels offered an impressive 7-day power reserve.
The watch comes with a black calfskin leather strap and a tang buckle, ensuring both comfort and durability. You can get the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Ref. IW501001 for $10,965 from the brand’s website.
IWC Pilot Timezoner Chronograph (ref. IW395001)
Perfect for frequent fliers, the Timezoner Chronograph Ref. IW395001 pays homage to the early days of aviation when pilots relied on their watches for navigation and timing. With a 45mm stainless steel case and a black embossed leather strap, this watch is perfect for fashion-conscious aviator enthusiasts.
The black dial features Arabic numeral hour markers and luminescent hands, while the 89760 automatic movement provides reliable precision with a 68-hour power reserve. With functions such as GMT, a second-time zone function, and a date display, this timepiece is tailored to meet the needs of pilots and international travelers. The dial is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and the watch is priced at $11,900.
Blancpain Air Command (ref. AC02-12B40-63B)
Famous for creating one of the most complicated mechanical watches on earth (the Blancpain 1735), Blancpain is a major player in the aviation watch market. The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer supplied American military pilots with tactical watches in the 1950s, and the Air Command was an official military aviation watch with the Colombian Air Force.
The legendary aviation watch is reborn in the Ref. AC02-12B40-63B; a watch that ticks all the right boxes. Sophisticated aesthetics? Check. Superlative functionality? Tick. Legendary history and authenticity? Yup. Legibility and military vintage allure? Overdose!
At 42.5 mm x 13. 7 mm, the case of the watch is bulky for sure, but that’s the point. Every adventurer needs an eye-catching watch with a good measure of masculine impact. The dial is clean, uncluttered, and mesmerizing, with a 30-minute counter in a subdial at three o’clock and a 12-hour counter situated at nine o’clock. Expect to pay around $20,000 for a new Air Command Ref. AC02-12B40-63B with a blue leather strap.
IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar (ref. IW503605)
Since the dawn of aviation watches, right up to today, IWC has built a solid collection of some of the best pilot watches in the world. The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer influenced the cockpit-instrument look of classic pilot’s watches during the 1930s, at least as far as aesthetics are concerned.
The Big Pilot collection is the brand’s flagship model with a diverse range of exceptional luxury pilot timepieces. The Perpetual Calendar Ref. IW503605 is a fashionable and functional timepiece with a stainless steel case that follows the Big Pilot’s Watch formula.
It is big at 46.2 x 15.4 mm, so again, we have a big watch that evokes a real appeal and makes you stand out from the crowd. Everything about this watch screams superlative quality. From the deeply knurled and oversized onion-shaped crown to the dark blue metallic sunburst dial, we are sold.
Command the skies with this enchanting pilot’s watch, which will integrate beautifully with business or casual attire and add a transcendent edge to any outfit. The watch is powered by IWC’s in-house caliber 52615 with 7 days or 168 hours of power reserve. It retails for $39,000.
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 (ref. 82035/000R-9359)
What would a list of the best pilot watches be without the Historiques American 1921? Vacheron Constantin is one of the oldest watch brands in the world, with an uninterrupted history of creating high-end watches since its foundation in 1755.
The Genevan brand created some supremely elegant timepieces for the American market in the 1920s, and the Ref. 82035/000R-9359 follows the spirit of the original very closely. The eccentric watch has a pink gold cushion-shaped case that measures 40 x 40 mm with a crown at the top right corner of the case.
The striking piece has a diagonal time display with Breguet-style hands and black-painted Arabic numerals that allows you to read the time without needing to turn your wrist. The brass dial is excellently executed with a railway dial train and a small seconds between 3 and 4 o’clock.
Visible through the transparent sapphire glass case back is the prominent Calibre 4400 AS with a power reserve of 65 hours. The watch is equipped with a half-matte dark brown alligator strap and retails for approximately $49,000.
Richard Mille RM 39-01 Automatic Winding Flyback Chronograph Aviation
Richard Mille is a brand that takes watchmaking beyond the 21st century with its technical wizardry. Famous for creating some of the world’s most complicated and idiosyncratic timepieces, the Swiss luxury watch company is one of the greatest Haute Horology players in the world.
The brand is also known to release technically-complicated racing machines for the wrist, so it’s no surprise that the Ref. RM 39-01 displays highly technical and extremely sophisticated features. Designed as a flight navigation instrument, the watch is encased in 50mm of titanium and is mounted on a black rubber strap.
The skeletonized dial is both stunning and sophisticated and houses different complications. The watch features a flyback chronograph, E6-B slide rule function, GMT/UTC function, and a semi-instantaneous date display below 12 o’clock.
Revealed through the porthole in the back is the grade 5 titanium RMAC2 caliber with its 55 hours of power reserve. At the time of writing this article, the watch is priced at $165,000, so yes, it was made solely for top collectors, but what harm is there in dreaming?
Patek Philippe Grand Complications Travel Time (ref. 5520P-001)
Founded all the way back in 1839, Patek Philippe is famous for creating some of the most highly coveted watches in the world. The prestigious luxury watchmaker has a history of horological brilliance for almost 200 years with a small (yet significant) contribution to aviation history.
The Ref. 5520P-001 is a decidedly masculine timepiece that reignites the doused flames of the brand’s Pilot range with a superlative technical appeal and elegance. The case of the watch is crafted from platinum, one most precious of the noble metals, and has a diameter of 42.2 mm with a height of 11.57 mm.
The design of the case seems overwhelming, with a crown at 4 o’clock and three additional pushers, but everything is symmetrical and well-balanced. The watch has a time-zone function that is especially useful in air travel, with a 24-hour alarm mechanism and a hammer that strikes on a classic gong.
It is powered by the self-winding caliber AL 30-660 S C FUS, a movement comprised of 574 parts. The watch is worn on a matte black calfskin strap and retails for approximately $220,000.
Conclusion
Pilot watches will always hold a special place in the hearts of professional aviators and aviation enthusiasts alike.
Not only because they take us back to the fascinating years of the past but also because they are a critical tool in a class of their own that will forever remain relevant.
The addition of gold to ornaments has always increased their value; this is not just because of how much they are worth but because of the potential they have. They are also resistant to many substances like chemicals, heat, air, and water, which makes them a great addition to watches because of the conditions we put them through when we have them on.
Trends and fashion seem to come and go, but the era of the two-tone watch does not seem to be going anywhere soon. Two-tone watches have existed for a very long time, and the debate about which ones are the best to acquire keeps getting more intense by the day.
About Two-Tone Watches
Traditionally, they are watches made with two different metals; the bezel and strap are designed with one metal, while the casing and other parts are designed with a different metal. They mostly come in stainless steel and yellow gold.
However, some newer ones now come in various shades of gold, bronze, titanium, platinum, and other precious metals, but the most common two-tone watches remain the gold and stainless steel ones.
Advantages and Disadvantages
The coolest thing about two-tone watches is how eye-catching they are, unlike watches made with just a single metal. They are also found to be more expensive, but sometimes, the market disagrees. For example, regarding retail price, they seem to be more costly, but in the secondary market, it’s often the other way around.
A good example is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the two-tone of this timepiece sells for a little under $40,000, while the stainless steel sells for about $42,000. This is still a discussion among many collectors as to whether single metal watches are a popular preference or there’s a two-toned discount nobody knows about.
History of Two-Tone Watches
This style of watchmaking started in the early parts of the 20th century as a result of watchmakers trying to develop new designs for their watches. The 1930s and 40s were when two-tone watches became a bit popular, and this was due to the adoption of Art Deco and other materials in the designing of jewelry and other ornaments.
Watch brands like Rolex and OMEGA started offering the two-toned version of some of their watches between the 1950s and 60s. For example, Rolex produced the Datejust model in 1945 and a two-toned version in the 1950s which paved the way for other brands like Patek Philippe, Cartier, and OMEGA to follow suit.
The 1970s and 80s took a different turn as watchmakers became more creative with their designs. Materials like diamonds, white gold, rose gold, yellow gold, and other precious stones were added to beautify watches more.
As years passed, newer watch brands started incorporating the two-tone watchmaking style and have evolved it to what we can see today. The best of these watches that can be found today will be discussed in the list below.
This model of Rolex only comes in the two-toned version and is a 41mm Submariner, just like the previous ones. The beautiful blue dial of this watch has put it among the favorite Rolexes of all time. It’s made up of 18-karat yellow gold and stainless steel on both the bracelet and the casing of the watch.
It has a lug-to-lug distance of 48.1mm, 12.8mm in height, and a lug width of 20mm. The 3235 Rolex automatic movement powers it. The dial has gold-colored text and hands, which match the gold coating around the watch. The price of this watch ranges between $17,000 to $18,000.
2. Cartier Santos Medium Two Tone (ref. CRW2SA0016)
The attention to detail on this timepiece is very impressive. There are many rectangular watches alike, but Cartier tends to differentiate their models from the rest. This timepiece has a case diameter of 35.1mm, a 9.4mm case thickness, and a 41.9mm lug-to-lug distance.
It is made up of stainless steel and 18 carats of gold on the bezel and bracelet of the watch. It’s an automatic winding watch with an 1847 MC caliber. It is the medium size of the Santos De Cartier watch, and it has a water resistance of 100 meters. This timepiece currently costs $10,300.
Patek Phillipe is known for consistently mixing luxury and functionality in their timepieces. This stainless steel 18-karat rose gold watch has a diameter of 40.5mm which gives it a very noticeable presence. It has a thickness of 12.4mm which I would consider a thick watch compared to an average Patek, and a lug-to-lug distance of 51.4mm.
Patek’s double-deployment clasps on the bracelet make it a perfect fit for big and small wrists. This Nautilus Chronograph has a blue sunburst dial with rose gold hands and indices. The watch is powered by a Caliber CH 28‑520 C/522 automatic chronograph movement. This timepiece has a 55-hour power reserve and currently sells for $78,000.
4. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Two Tone (ref.15450SR.OO.1256SR.01)
This watch combines red gold and stainless steel with a case size of 37mm. It does not carry the thickness of most watches of this standard. It has a 9.8mm thickness and a lug-to-lug distance of 46.8mm. The Royal Oak brand within Audemars Piguet is certainly known for its quality.
The very solid bracelet and clasp of the model are no different. The screws on the timepiece give it a very secure, unique look, although since the original design took off, many brands seem to try and replicate its success. The watch is completely self-winding, with its Chronograph on display at the bottom part, which adds complexity to its look.
The dial has a white background with rose gold hands and Indices illuminating at night. It has a water resistance of up to 50 meters and a 3120 calibre built-in house with a 60-hour power reserve. The watch is currently worth $42,750.
5. Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G (ref. M79833MN-0001)
Most watchmakers find it hard to pull off a watch that looks very good with three or more colors, but Tudor did some magic with the Black Bay GMT S&G. The front of the watch is a mixture of gold, brown, white, and black colors on the dial, bezel, text, and hands. It has a 41mm steel case with a steel and yellow gold bracelet.
The watch is 14.6mm thick and is crowned by the domed sapphire crystal at the top. It is a self-winding timepiece with an MT5652 caliber movement. It has a water resistance of up to 200m and a power reserve of 70 hours. It is currently worth $5,850, but its price tends to change often.
6. Breitling Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Calendar (ref. U19320161C1U1)
Many collectors dream of this timepiece. The Swiss piece comprises 18 karats of red gold and stainless steel. It is a pretty hefty watch with 239.0 grams of weight and 14.5mm in thickness. It has a ceramic bezel insert with a mixture of red, gold, and white on the digits, text, and dial, giving it a unique look.
It has a lug-to-lug distance of 53.5mm and a height of 22.0mm. This timepiece has a day, date, month, and moon phase sub-dial and is powered by the Breitling Calibre 19 with 70 hours of power reserve. You can find the watch for around $18,500.
Most single-metal watches, unlike the opposite of two-tone watches, get less attention to their bezels. A two-tone piece has its bezel carefully designed, such as this Omega Seamaster model, which has 18-karat gold and stainless steel built into it. This unidirectional bezel is crafted with black ceramic and has gold numbers and indices on it.
The timepiece is powered by the Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 8800. The Diver 300M has a diameter of 42mm, a lug-to-lug distance of 49.9mm, and a thickness of 13.6mm. It has scratch-resistant sapphire crystals on both sides with anti-reflective treatments and a beautiful two-tone bracelet made of stainless steel and yellow gold. The watch is sold for $11,700.
8. Grand Seiko Hi-Beat SBGH252
The Grand Seiko Hi-Beat is a limited edition watch, so there aren’t many to come across. This two-tone timepiece is a combination of stainless steel and yellow gold. It is powered by the Seiko 9S85 high-beat automatic caliber with a 55-hour power reserve. It has a diameter of 40mm, suiting smaller wrists as well, and 13.8mm thickness.
Its white dial is covered in a stainless steel case, with a gold bezel and gold indices and text. Its stainless steel bracelet is designed with gold in between. This Japanese masterpiece has a water resistance of 100m and currently sells for around $10,000.
9. Glashütte Original SeaQ (ref. 1-39-11-10-90-34)
This timepiece was inspired by the Spezimatic RPTS 200, the brand’s first diving watch. It is made of steel and yellow gold with a case diameter of 39.5mm, a lug-to-lug distance of 47.3mm, and a 12.15mm thickness. It’s considered a unisex watch as it measures not big for feminine wrists.
It has a screw-down crown with a unidirectional bezel and a ceramic insert. Its blue dial with sunburst decoration on the surface has a date function. The Original SeaQ is powered by an automatic movement with a 40-hour power reserve and 20-bar water resistance. It has a strap made of synthetic material, and it is currently sold for $12,500.
Some collectors complain about the combination of the shiny dial and the rubber strap on this timepiece. But it isn’t necessarily a downside since the watch comes with an extra stainless steel bracelet allowing you to change from demanding serious respect to outdoor activity companion.
The timepiece has a 41.5mm diameter, 13.5mm thickness, and a lug-to-lug distance of 48mm. Its sapphire case back gives a good view of the self-winding caliber. This 18-karat gold watch comes in green and blue versions with a very easy strap removal system.
The dial comes in the same color as the straps and has hands and indices that illuminate in the dark. It has a 300-meter water resistance and an impressive 5-day power reserve. The watch has a retail price of $4,700.
11. Longines Hydroconquest Two Tone (ref. L3.781.3.06.7)
This watch was made for men, but the slightly smaller bracelet gives it a unisex look. It has a 41mm case with a unidirectional ceramic bezel and sapphire crystals on the top.
Its casing and bracelet are both made of stainless steel with a touch of PVD gold coating, the very feature that gives presence to the watchmaking its elegance spike. It has a self-winding L888 caliber with a 72-hour power reserve. The Hydroconquest Two Tone can be yours for around $2,000.
12. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Two Tone (ref. WBD2120.BB0930)
The comment you’ll get most wearing this timepiece is how dressy and functional it looks while being a sports watch. Its stainless steel casing with a gold bezel and gold accent running through the middle of the bracelet gives it an elevated look all two-toned models strive for.
It has a 41mm case with a metallic blue dial that changes color when light hits it from different angles. This watch is 11.90mm thick with a lug-to-lug distance of 50mm. It’s an automatic watch with a 38-hour power reserve, a date function, and indices and hands that glow in the dark. It currently costs $3,600.
13. Zenith Chronomaster Sport Two Tone (ref. 51.3100.3600/69.M3100)
Aside from being a high-beat watch, this timepiece also Carries the historical Zenith El Primero caliber. Its diameter is 41mm with a silver sunray dial with three different dial features, including a 60-minute counter, a 60 seconds counter, and small seconds at 9 o’clock.
It has a lug-to-lug distance of 46.8mm and a 13.6mm thick watch case. This casing is made out of stainless steel, and 18-carat rose gold. It has a power reserve of up to 60 hours and a 100m water resistance. It is sold for between $14,000 to $17,000.
The Zodiac Super Sea Wolf GMT has a fourth hand on the dial for tracking a second timezone for frequent travelers. The bezel can also be used to track a third-time zone which makes it a total package for nomad people. It’s an automatic watch with a dome sapphire crystal on the top.
This two-tone watch has a 40mm diameter, 47.8mm lug-to-lug distance, and a 13.6mm case thickness. It comes in a gold PVD version and a stainless steel version. The Super Sea Wolf GMT has a water resistance of 200m. This watch is currently worth $1,695.
15. Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Two Tone (ref. T927.407.46.291.00)
This watch is not as flashy as most on this list, but it’s a well-made watch. It’s powered by the famous and great Swiss-made Powermatic 80 movement with 80 hours of power reserve. It has a case size of 40mm, a 49mm lug-to-lug distance, and a 10.6mm thickness.
It is cased with stainless steel and an 18-carat rose gold bezel. Its domed sapphire crystal top and see-through case back make a nice show for inquisitive guests. The price of this timepiece ranges between $1,200 to $1,500.
Conclusion
Two-tone watches are often associated with women due to how precious, attention-grabbing, and feminine they look. But many of the most important and influential men on our planet could take great advantage of catching eyes with their shiny wrist companion, and these watches play the role of a good conversation starter outstandingly well.
At least, they surely call people’s attention with their shiny colors. So if you’ve had your eye on any two-tone watch for a while, consider you’ll be watched with admiration and jealousy when walking around with your new purchase on your wrist before actually pulling the trigger.
