Category: Seiko

The movement or caliber in a watch is like the motor in a car, the mechanism in a gearbox, or the beating heart in your chest. For centuries engineers have pushed the boundaries of what is possible with an automatic movement, and with contemporary mechanics, watch calibers are better than ever. 

The pride of Japan, Seiko, is one of the leading caliber suppliers to the watch world and has produced several different kinds over the years. From high complications to a humble date function, let’s look at the 15 best Seiko movements. 

About Seiko Movements

As mentioned, Seiko is incredibly innovative with horological movements and has been one of the leading caliber makers since its beginning. The first of the Seiko watches to feature a true sweep second hand was the Super, which was introduced a few years after WWII. 

Unfortunately, the movement within the Super didn’t have a movement number. The first movement to have a number was in 1956, called the 290, which powered the Seiko Marvel. The caliber 290 featured auto-wind capability, a first for Seiko, which they called ‘Gyro Marvel’. 

Over the next few years, Seiko continued to innovate, providing more accurate and reliable movements. They even introduced a high-end watch category for the opulent customers called ‘King Seiko’, but still a step below the exclusive ‘Grand Seiko’. 

King Seikos had slightly improved movements compared to regular Seikos, such as the high-end 56XX range, the ‘Vanac’, and the ‘Lordmatic’. On December 25, 1969, Seiko released the first quartz-powered wristwatch. Rather than working with mechanical automatic movement, it is powered by a battery sending power through a quartz crystal to the hands of the watch.

The Seiko Quartz Astron 35SQ was far more accurate than mechanical watches, and most quartz watches are still more accurate today. Seiko doubled down on innovation, and in 1977, they released a solar-powered watch, and in 1988, they started production of the Seiko KINETIC.

The KINETIC had an oscillating weight that would convert movement into electricity and thereby powering the quartz movement. Seiko continued to engineer their mechanical movements throughout history, and in 2005 released the revolutionary ‘Seiko Spring Drive’.

Combining the endless power of an automatic movement and the precision of a quartz movement, the Spring Drive uses a Tri-Synchro regulator to convert mechanical force from the mainspring to electrical energy.

The History of Seiko

Seiko finds its origin in 1881 when Kintaro Hattori set up a small watch-repair shop in central Tokyo. 11 Years later, Mr. Hattori set up the ‘Seikosha’ factory after purchasing a disused factory. Seiko started their business by producing watch clocks, followed by pocket watches, and then in 1913, they released their first wristwatch – the Laurel. 

The Laurel was also the first wristwatch to be made in Japan and was a small, time-only watch featuring a small seconds hand, but it did not feature the Seiko namesake on the dial. The first watch to feature the Seiko name on the dial only went on sale in late 1924. 

Over the last 100 years, Seiko has become one of the giants in the horology world, producing millions of watches each year, renowned for their accuracy, durability, and technological prowess. 

Best Seiko Movements

Seiko Caliber 7S26 (and 7S36)

The caliber 7S26 started production in 1996 and became the workhorse in the Seiko lineup, being updated to the 7S26B in 2006 and 7S26C in 2011. The cal. 7S26 was featured in a myriad of watches, from the Seiko 5 range to the famous Seiko SKX range. 

The accuracy of this entry-level movement was rated at -20 to +40 seconds per day and was equipped with a 41-hour power reserve, beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour. It also featured a day-date function at the 3 o’clock position. 

The 7S26 is equipped with 21 jewels, and the newer cal. 7S36 has 23 jewels. It is speculated that the cal. 7S36 was supposed to replace the 7S26, but the cal. 4R36 ended up replacing the cal. 7S26 and can still be found in modern Seiko 5s. 

The movement can usually go 5 – 25 years before a service is due, but due to inflation and changing times, the service costs might often be more than the movement or the entire watch. 

Seiko Caliber 4R36

As just mentioned, the caliber 4R36 ended up replacing the cal. 7S26 in many of Seiko’s entry-level watches. Introduced in 2019, the movement features in every single modern Seiko 5, barring, of course, the newly introduced GMTs. It also powers other Seiko’s like SARY055, Stargate II SRP510, Monster SRP455 Limited Edition, and Recraft SRPC13K1. 

The movement is equipped with a robust 40-hour power reserve thanks to a 21,600 bph frequency. It features 24 jewels and has an accuracy of +45 / -35 seconds per day. 

The upgrade compared to the cal. 7S26 came with the addition of hand-winding and hacking capabilities, improving any watch’s capabilities dramatically. The 4R36 is still going strong and is also being produced as the cal. NH36 for non-Seiko watches. 

Seiko Caliber 6R15 (and 6R35)

Moving from entry-level sports watches to dress and tool watches, we have the caliber 6R15. Powering models like the Sumo SBDC027 Prospex Diver, Alpinist SARB017, and some Prospex Divers, the caliber had 4 different versions (A, B, C, and D) is the base caliber for the calibers 6R20, 6R21, and 6R24, and 6R27.

Elevating from what we’ve already discussed, the 6R15 has a robust 50-hour power reserve, beats at 21,600 vph, and has an accuracy of -15 / +25 seconds per day. In case it isn’t clear, this movement is a massive step up from the 7S26. It is also cheaper to produce than some other Seiko calibers. 

The upgrade, the 6R35, doubles down on innovation. Not only is the power reserve bumped to 70 hours, but it is thinner than the 6R15. If you find a Seiko powered by the upgrade, be expected to pay a little more than a 6R15-powered Seiko. 

Seiko Caliber 8L35

The caliber 8L35 is based on the Grand Seiko caliber 9S55 and is, apparently, assembled by hand by hand at Shizuku-ishi Watch Studio in Morioka. With an accuracy of -10 / +15 seconds per day, the caliber is pretty accurate even though Seiko suggests you service your watch regularly once every 2-3 years. 

The watch powers various Proxpex divers, Marinemasters, and Brightz Phoenix models and features normal time functionality and a date function at the 3 o’clock position. In 2015, Seiko introduced micro-electromechanical parts in the 8L35 range, and these upgraded calibers were featured in higher-end Prospex divers.

Seiko Caliber 5R65

Found in select Seiko models like the Seiko Marinemaster Golden Tuna, the cal. 5R65 offers an amazing accuracy rating of +/- 1 seconds per day and only +/- 15 seconds per month. This is because the movement features the spring drive technology we mentioned before. 

With a sturdy power reserve of 70 hours and the reassurance that the movement cannot be overwound (thanks to the slipping mechanism), the movement is a favorite amongst enthusiasts. Being able to beat at a frequency of 28,800 vph while maintaining a high power reserve is a tremendous technological feat. 

There is one different version of the cal. 5R65 called the cal. 5R64, which instead of a center seconds hand, has a small seconds hand. 

Seiko Caliber 8R48

The first chronograph caliber in our list features in the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer range. Initially introduced in 2014 within the limited edition Prospex SRQ029, with only 1000 produced. Caliber 8R46 is a tribute to Seiko’s first-ever chronograph watch, released in 1969. 

The cal. 8R48 has a vertical clutch and a column wheel for precise timekeeping, and with an adequate power reserve of 45 hours, it makes for a very usable chronograph. You can also find the cal. 8R48 in other watches as the cal. NE86, since Seiko supply their own movements as third-party technology to other companies. 

Overall, the cal. 8R48 is one of the best modern chronographs, according to enthusiasts, thanks to its remarkable precision and, due to the 34 jewels, exceptional reliability. 

Seiko Caliber NH35 (NH38, and NH36)

As mentioned, the cal. NH35 is essentially the Seiko cal. 4R35, which was introduced somewhere in 2011 – 2012. Chances are that most of the entry-level watches you have seen were or are powered by this movement, as if features in everything from Invicta, Vostok, and, of course, various cost-effective Seikos. 

The hand-windable movement features a hacking function as well as a 41-hour power reserve. Beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour, the caliber has an accuracy of -20 / +40 seconds per day, which is why the movement can be replaced for quite cheap – $40 – $80. 

The cal. NH35 is still a true workhorse, and so are its variations. The NH36 is a day-date version that is based on the Seiko cal. 4R36. The cal. NH38 is a no-frills version of the cal. NH35, as it does not feature a date function and is only a three-hand movement. 

Seiko Caliber Y675 (and Y676)

The cal. Y675 is a rather old movement, introduced in the early 2000s but has long since been discontinued. The cal. Y675 is actually based on the cal. 7S25 and does not feature hacking or manual winding, unlike many of the other Seiko calibers. Seiko did not use this caliber themselves, but you’ll still be able to find it within its sister brands like Pulsar and Lorus.

Beating at a frequency of 21,600 bph and rated with an accuracy of -35 / +45 seconds per day, the movement would never set the world on fire. It was still cheap to produce and provided the beautiful sweeping seconds hand we all love. There was also another version of the movement called the cal. Y676, which added a day-date complication. 

Seiko VK63 (VK64, and VK67)

Produced by Seiko Instruments Inc. (SII), the quartz VK63 forms part of the ‘hybrid mechanical quartz’ or ‘mechaquartz’ range. The regular timekeeping duties are dealt with by the quartz crystal, while a mechanical module will take care of the chronograph function.

Quartz movements will always be incredibly accurate, and the VK63 is no different, reporting only a deviation of +/- 20 seconds per month. The battery (number 394) is rated to last 3 years, but it depends on how often you end up using the chronograph function.

The cal. VK67 is based on the same base as the cal. VK63, with the only difference being that the cal. VK67 has a 12-hour indicator, whereas the cal. VK63 has a 24-hour indicator. The cal. VK64 has exactly the same base; however, its subregisters are located at 3 and 9 o’clock. It also has a date function at 6 o’clock.

Seiko Caliber 4R34 (and NH34)

The functionality of a GMT is perhaps the most usable complication in automatic watches, and to meet the market demands for a cost-effective GMT, Seiko released the Seiko 5 Sports GMT series in June of 2022. 

Internally, these GMTs would be powered by the new cal. 4R34. This new movement boasts a power reserve of 41 hours when fully wound. Accuracy is good for the price you pay, rated at -35 / +45 seconds per day, and thanks to 24 jewels, the movement would only need a service every 2 – 3 years. 

The cal. NH34 is the third-party version of the cal. 4R34, and will feature in other cost-effective GMTs from microbrands like the PHOIBOS Voyager GMT 200M Automatic Diver Watch.

Seiko Caliber 5X53

Recall the solar-powered watches Seiko introduced in 1977. The cal. 5X53 is one of those solar-powered calibers and powers some modern Seikos like the Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time models. 

Being a quartz movement, its accuracy is ridiculous and rated at +/-15 seconds per month. Unlike many other quartz movements, it can set the time automatically using GPS. Even more impressive is the ‘power reserve’ of the battery, holding 6 months’ worth of power. 

The cal. 5X53 also features a host of complications, a pointer day subdial at the 3 o’clock position, a date window at the 16h30 position, as well as a world time function. 

Seiko Caliber V175

Another solar-powered movement, but this time has the added functionality of being a chronograph as well. Powering the Prospex Air Diver’s Chronograph series, the cal. V175 is actually a remarkable movement because you get the functionality of a chronograph with precision and limitless power from a quartz solar caliber. 

With an accuracy rating of +/- 15 seconds per month, the cal. V175 is far more accurate than any automatic caliber mentioned, barring the spring drive. Seiko claims the watch merely needs 2 minutes of sunlight exposure to store enough energy to last a full day and about 5 hours to charge the watch fully. When fully charged, it’d last 6 months.

Seiko Caliber 7A28A

The cal. 7A28A falls in the ‘neo-vintage’ range of watch calibers, not quite old enough to be vintage, but since production started in 1983, it has had some life. The cal. 7A28A also carries a massive title, being the first analog display quartz chronograph ever produced.

The 80s were filled with watches that had LCDs, and so Seiko decided to drive innovation once again by going in the other direction. The cal. 7A28A did not feature plastic parts like other quartz movements, which meant the caliber could be serviced.

With an accuracy rating of +/- 10 seconds per month, small wonder superspy James Bond had a variation of the cal. 7A28A on his wrist in the movie ‘A View to a Kill’. Actor Roger Moore wore the Seiko model SPR007, a white dial stainless steel chronograph.

Seiko Caliber 7C46

Another older quartz caliber known as the cal. &c46, which was introduced in 1986. It featured in some higher-end Seikos like the Marinemaster and some Prospex divers. It also featured in the famous Seiko ‘Tuna’ models. 

It features a day-date complication, and thanks to its higher beating frequency, the caliber, like all other quartz movements, has a high accuracy rating. In fact, it’s rated at only +/- 15 seconds per month. Battery life is rated at 5 years. 

Seiko Caliber VH31

The cal. VH31 was introduced as a means to combine the precision of a quartz movement with the romanticism of a smooth second hand. Well, Seiko increased the quartz oscillation frequency to try and achieve that with the cal. VH31. 

The second hand beats four times per second, making the movement much smoother and similar to the smooth movement of an automatic caliber. 

Because the frequency is quite a bit higher, the battery life is only rated at 2 years, with accuracy being +/- 15 seconds per month.

Conclusion

When looking at the various offerings of the Seiko 5 range, it is clear that Seiko rewards innovation within their company, and it shows with their caliber manufacturing as well. Seiko did produce the first quartz watch but has also provided the world with some amazing automatic movements.

Let us not forget the groundbreaking spring movement, which set the horology world on fire. Seiko will continue to innovate not only with design but with technological prowess as well. 

In the eyes of many consumers, Seiko has always been associated with value. They have consistently offered a variety of watches at different price points and consistently high quality. As one of the few completely integrated manufacturers, Seiko offers a wide range of consumers the opportunity to own a fully in-house watch. 

Prior to 2010, Seiko’s high-end brand Grand Seiko was not available in Japan, and it was not until 2018 that Grand Seiko opened a corporate office in the United States. With that came other corporate changes and rebranding.

Some of Seiko’s most famous models, such as the SKX, Monster, Samurai, and Turtle, were originally part of their standard offerings. Today, descendants of those enthusiast favorites exist in the Seiko 5 and Seiko Prospex brands.

The Purpose of Seiko 5

The original purpose of the Seiko 5 brand was to offer consumers a very affordable mechanical watch with five key features; a self-winding movement, a day-date display at 3 o’clock, water resistance, a crown at 4 o’clock, and a case and bracelet built for durability.

The original Seiko 5 watches all had these features, with models from the recent past resembling pseudo-dive watches, often with 100m of water resistance, to more casual and dress-oriented watches with 30 to 50m of water resistance. 

In 2019, Seiko relaunched the Seiko 5 brand with a line of watches resembling the SKX collection. The SKX007, along with other variants of the beloved dive watch, was a consumer hit for many years. It could easily be found at an affordable price and had proved itself to be extremely reliable.

They were full-fledged dive watches with ISO certification, 200 meters of water resistance, a screw-down crown, and a uni-directional rotating bezel. The new Seiko 5 SRPD line of watches offered much more variety in terms of colors and bracelet options, but they only had 100m of water resistance and a push-pull crown.

While the new SRPD series kept the SKX style, they also marked the discontinuation of the SKX line. While Seiko 5 as a whole is aimed to be more of a mass-market product than the SKX series, many enthusiasts lament the replacement. The Seiko 5 line now offers other models that include smooth-bezel options to the SKX-inspired design, a GMT complication, and field-inspired watches.

With that, Seiko has drifted away from the original 5 characteristics, with the GMT model not having a day function and the field watches having 3 o’clock crowns. They have maintained their affordability and durability, being more than capable as everyday watches for most people, and aimed at new enthusiasts and those wanting a mechanical timepiece for an affordable price. 

The Purpose of Seiko Prospex

Seiko’s history of making modern tool watches starts with its first purpose-built dive watch released in 1965. Since then, Seiko has been an innovator in diving technologies, including developing the first wrist-worn dive computer in 1990.

The Prospex line is Seiko’s professionally oriented watch line. Prospex focuses on dive watches, but there are others, including a variety of field watches, chronographs, and ana-digi models (watches with both analog and digital displays). 

Included in the recent reorganization of Seiko’s model lineup is the Prospex line. Initially reserved for the most rugged sports watches, Seiko has relaunched much-loved models such as the Turtle, Monster, Samurai, and Sumo. Once part of the standard Seiko dive watch offerings, these models were updated and are now part of the Prospex model line. 

With that came a price increase, but the inclusion of sapphire crystals, ceramic bezels, and upgraded dials made the price increase worthwhile. Even though these models are more expensive, they are still affordable, often found for under $750.

Seiko has created space within the Prospex line for high-end watches. Ranging from mechanical chronograph movements to high-end Spring-Drive divers and GMTs that share movements with Grand Seiko, these watches have retail prices over $3000. The Prospex line aims to make some of the best sports timepieces available at various prices. 

Seiko 5 or Prospex?

Budget

Since forum readings and many watch enthusiasts have all pointed towards Seiko as the best value for money, your budget is the first thing to consider. While prices under $1,000 are considered entry-level in the broader watch-collecting hobby, the difference between $300 and $600 can be staggering.

Twice the money does not buy twice the watch (unless you are buying two pieces). Other factors should be taken into account when determining your next watch-buying goal, but having firm financial guidelines will be extremely helpful. 

Build Quality

While doubling the price does not necessarily increase the quality, a price increase does improve many of the watch’s aspects. Comparing the SRPD51 to the SRPE05, even though they both have the same movement, the crystal and bezel of the SRPE05 are upgraded compared to the SRPD51 (sapphire versus mineral for the crystal, ceramic versus aluminum for the bezel). 

The SRPE05 is also rated to 200m of water resistance compared to the SRPD51’s 100m, making the SRPE05 a true dive watch. The 100m rating and lack of a screw-down crown on the SRPD51 make it only suitable for casual water usage (surface swimming, maybe some shallow diving).

If these upgrades are considered worthwhile, it may be worth saving a little longer to get the SRPE05 from the Prospex line. If style is the top concern, the Seiko 5 will serve well. Aside from the more easily discernible aspects, there will be many differences in quality between the Seiko 5 line and the Prospex line.

The Prospex line will have a range of quality case finishing and bracelets, from slightly better than the Seiko 5 line to competing with higher-end luxury brands. Comparing the SPB155 (Prospex) to the SRPG29 (Seiko 5), the case finishing and bracelet quality of the SPB155 is a notable upgrade over the SRPG29. The straps and buckles on the Prospex models will also be an improvement over the Seiko 5 models.

Movements

As mentioned earlier, the movement quality in the Prospex range can vary significantly compared to Seiko 5. Entry-level Prospex can have the same movements as the Seiko 5 range. In contrast, mid-tier and high-end Prospex models can have more well-regulated movements and finish than what is available in Seiko 5 models. The Prospex range also includes a variety of quartz models, including time and date divers, ana-digi models, and solar-powered chronographs. 

Availability

Finally, the Seiko 5 models are more widely available. In the United States, many Seiko 5 models can be found in shopping malls and department stores in almost every town and city. Entry-level Prospex models will likely be available in many moderate to large-size markets, but finding a store with higher-end Prospex models will be more difficult.

If buying in person is a must, this can be problematic. Fortunately, internet access and a global economy have made access to even the most hard-to-come-by models possible. The most important aspect of purchasing a watch is whether or not it resonates with the end user. From there, factors such as use case, desired traits, and budget can filter and help inform the final decision. 

Seiko 5 and Prospex Collections

Seiko 5 SRPD

The SRPD lineup consists of watches most closely resembling the original SKX line. Inside all of them is the caliber 4R36, which hacks, hand-winds, and offers 41 hours of power reserve. They all have 10 bar of water resistance (equivalent to 100 meters of static pressure), a unidirectional bezel, mineral crystal, and a display case back. These watches are 42.5mm wide, 13.4mm thick, have 22mm lugs, and are 46mm lug to lug.

A model such as the SRPD55 will be the most conservative offering, with a conventional black dial with silver outlined indices and hands with white lume. The SRPD55 comes on a 3-link style bracelet instead of a more ornate 5-link style seen on the original SKX line. It is one of the most versatile watches in this collection but could be viewed as stale compared to other models. The SRPD55 retails for $295.

The SRPD71 is more stylized than the SRPD55, with a blue dial and bezel, white chapter ring, and vintage-inspired tan lume on the indices and hands. This model is under the “SKX Suits Style” collection, suggesting that this watch is intended to be more stylish than utilitarian with the colored dial elements and Milanese strap. The SRPD71 commands a slight premium at $350 retail.

One of the more significant departures from the original SKX line is the SRPD81. With a completely black case, dial, and bezel, with blue lume and bezel markings, this model takes influence from enthusiasts that modified their SKX watches. Aftermarket suppliers would create parts that allowed collectors to alter their timepieces and make them their own.

With colored lume, black cases, and different strap offerings, models such as the SRPD81 enable consumers to have these more unique offerings direct from the original manufacturer. Even though it does not come on a metal bracelet, the other aesthetic changes increase the retail price to $335.

Seiko 5 SRPG Collection

The Seiko 5 SRPG collection consists of the brand’s field watch offerings. A long-standing style in the Seiko 5 collection, even before the brand revamp, the biggest departure is the movement of the crown position. The current Seiko 5 SRPG watches have their crowns at 3 o’clock instead of 4 o’clock, which is typical for Seiko 5. 

The SRPG watches still maintain other hallmarks of the Seiko 5 collection with the day-date feature, water resistance, mechanical movement, and durable case design. These watches have the same 4R36 movement, 10 bar water resistance rating, mineral crystal, and display case back as the SRPD series. The SRPG Field watches measure 39.4mm wide, 13.2mm thick, have 20mm lugs, and measure 48.1mm lug to lug. 

The SRPG29 comes with a blue dial, silver indices and hands with white lume, and a 3-link style metal bracelet. The dial layout is typical for a field watch, with large numerals to facilitate reading the time. There is a 24-hour inner track on the dial, allowing for easier reading of 24-hour time. The SRPG29 retails for $275.

Keeping the same dial layout and case as the SRPG29, the SRPG31 comes with a blue-grey textured and a matching colored textile strap. The color is more muted than the SRPG29, making the watch better suited for casual situations, especially with the textile strap. The SRPG31 retails for $275.

The SRPG41 is further stylized, adding a textured dial that also mimics a faded look, with a lighter dial color in the center and progressing to a darker color towards the outer edges. The press photos make this look more pronounced.

In real life, this color differentiation varies depending on lighting, ranging from utterly dark grey to a more pronounced brown-to-black fade. The lume is also vintage-inspired with a light tan coloration, and the case is covered with a black hard coating. Coming on a leather strap, this is another more style-oriented model than a function-focused one. The SRPG41 retails for $315.

Seiko 5 Sports GMT Collection

Released in 2022, the SSK series launched to a world that was excited to travel. These watches use the same case design as the SKX, measuring 42.5mm wide, 13.6mm thick, 22mm wide bracelets, 46mm lug-to-lug, mineral crystals, and are rated to 10 bar of water resistance. These watches come on a 5-link style bracelet, closer in style to the original bracelets found on the SKX. 

The launch of this watch also unveiled the new 4R34 movement, which has an adjustable 24-hour hand, allowing for the tracking of multiple time zones, in addition to the rotating 24-hour bezel. This combination allowed for a very affordable dual-time watch from a notable brand, as many Swiss brands are easily twice as expensive for a dual-time zone timepiece. 

The SSK series comes in three dial colors, black (SSK001), blue (SSK003), and orange (SSK005). They each have two-toned bezels, with the blue being the most pronounced and the orange and black being more subtle, and they vary depending on the lighting.

These watches also depart from the Seiko 5 tradition, removing the day complication at 3 o’clock but maintaining the date. They also now have a date magnifier, which allows for easier reading of the date.  Regardless of color variant, each of these watches retails for $475. 

Seiko Prospex Alpinist

The Seiko Alpinist has long been an enthusiast favorite. It offers a more rugged alternative to conventional time and date watches, such as the SARB033. The inner rotating bezel controlled by the crown at 4 o’clock is meant to be used as a manual compass but can also be utilized to time events, similar to a dive bezel.

The iconic model for the Alpinist line is the variant with a green dial alongside gold indices and hands. When Seiko relaunched the Alpinist as part of the Prospex line, it was released as the SPB121. The SPB121 measures 39.5mm wide, 13.2mm thick, and 46.4mm lug-to-lug. It has a 20mm wide strap and contains the 6R35 movement that has a 70-hour power reserve, date function, hacks, and hand winds.

The case has 20 bar of water resistance, facilitated by a screw-down crown. The front crystal is sapphire, and the clasp is a deployant style instead of a pin and buckle, as seen on the Seiko 5 models. The SPB121 retails for $725. Should a green dial not do the trick, other dial, strap, and bracelet options are available. 

Should the general style of the Seiko Prospex Alpinist be appealing, but the second crown of the SPB121 is off-putting, the SPB243 should be considered. Slightly smaller at 38mm wide, 12.9mm thick, 19mm lugs, and 46.2mm lug-to-lug, these dimensions allow the watch to be more svelte on the wrist. The SPB243 uses the same 6R35 movement and has 20 bar of water resistance with a screw-down crown. 

The dark sunburst dial covered by a sapphire crystal will be more flexible than the green dial with various attire, and the lack of the date magnifier will be a plus for many buyers. To appeal to the vintage origins of the original Alpinist from 1959, the lume is done in a faux-patina color. The SPB243 retails for $750. Again, other dial, strap, and bracelet options are available. 

To display the higher end of the Seiko Prospex range, there is the SJE085. In 2021, Seiko launched a limited edition recreation of the original 1959 Alpinist. They took inspiration from the original, incorporating elements from the original dial design and the jagged stitching on the bund-style strap.

The SJE085 measures 36.6mm wide and 11.1mm thick, with 18mm lugs, and 43.8mm lug-to-lug. The movement inside is Seiko’s 6L35, which has a higher accuracy rating than the 6R34 and is intended to be a more high-end movement, sitting below those from Grand Seiko. 

The SJE085 has 10 bar of water resistance, less than other Prospex models, but is more than enough for daily wear. The case is also more finely finished, all in high polish, which will make it easy to wear with a suit with a change of strap. It was a limited edition of 1,959 pieces, making availability difficult. The original retail was $2,900, but used prices have settled south of that mark. There are also deals to be had on models still in inventory.

Seiko Prospex Dive Watches

In the Prospex line, we see modern versions of many of Seiko’s mainstay models, such as the Samurai, Sumo, and Turtle. Seiko could rely on the popularity of those models alone, but in 2022, they released the Prospex Diver Re-Interpretation. 

Offered in a variety of colors, strap, and bracelet options, this watch does combine several elements from various favorite Seiko dive watch models and molds them into a new and unique design that stands on its own. Measuring 41mm wide, 12.3mm thick, 20mm lugs, and 46.9mm lug to lug, it is one of the more wearable Seiko divers and is the thinnest one they’ve ever made.

The watch is rated at 200 meters of water resistance and is an ISO-certified diver. Inside is the Seiko 6R35 movement. The Seiko Prospex SPB317 featured here has a black dial and black rubber strap. The retail price is $900, and slightly more for models on a bracelet.

Another modern re-interpretation is the SPB301 Save The Ocean special edition. This case shape has been nicknamed Captain Willard as this watch resembles the watch famously seen in the movie Apocalypse Now. The SPB301 measures 42.7mm wide, 13mm thick, 46.6mm lug-to-lug, and has 20mm lugs.

Inside is the 6R35, and the SPB301 is ISO-Certified, rated at 200 meters of water resistance. This version stands out with its grained white dial, reminiscent of the Grand Seiko White Birch dial, and textured blue bezel. The SPB301 retails for $1,300. 

Towards the top of the Seiko Prospex dive watch range is the impressive SNR029. Representing the Spring Drive equipped models from the Prospex range, the SNR029 features a titanium case and bracelet with Seiko’s proprietary “super-hard” coating to protect from scratches.

Equally impressive are the dimensions, as the case measures 44.8mm wide, 14.7mm thick, and 50.9mm lug-to-lug. The relatively short lug-to-lug measurement will make it wearable for most people. The SNR029 is still a very large watch. 

The SNR029 is rated at 300m of water resistance and is ISO-certified for saturation diving, giving the SNR029 improved capabilities over the standard Prospex Divers. Inside is the Seiko 5R65 Spring Drive movement, rated at +/-1 second per day, and offers a 72-hour power reserve that can be tracked via the indicator on the dial. It also has a very cool ratcheting clasp system to allow for minor adjustments and to fit the watch over a wetsuit. The SNR029 retails at $6,000 and is among the best of what Seiko has to offer.

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Watches

Drawing on Seiko’s history with timing sporting events, the Speedtimer collection references their first watch with their Caliber 6139, the world’s first automatic chronograph with a column-wheel and vertical clutch. 

Representing the line of mechanical Speedtimers, the SRQ037 was released in 2021 as part of Seiko’s unveiling of the Prospex Speedtimer collection. Inside is the 8R46 automatic caliber, a 30-minute chronograph with a column wheel and vertical clutch. The 8R46 has a rated accuracy of +25/-15 sec per day and a 45-hour power reserve.

The mechanical Speedtimers measure 15.1mm thick, 42.5mm wide, 50mm lug-to-lug, and 20mm lugs, and have a water resistance rating of 10 bar. The SRQ037 specifically comes with a black dial, tan faux-vintage colored lume, and a metal bracelet. The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ037 retails for $3,000 

Offering a more accessible approach to the chronograph, the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph collection has quickly become an enthusiast favorite. Focusing on the SSC813, the dial is white with black subdials and blackened hands and indices.

The Speedtimer Solar Chronographs use the solar-powered V192 quartz movement, allowing for an accuracy rating of +/-15 seconds a month. The chronograph measures up to 60 minutes and includes a 24-hour indicator for the displayed time at 3 o’clock.

The case measures 13mm thick, 39mm wide, 45.5mm lug-to-lug, has 20mm lugs, and is rated to 10 bar of water resistance. The size, finishing, and the more affordable retail price of $675 have made it a fast favorite in the broader Seiko Prospex collection. 

Should the SSC813 be too small, there are the larger Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronographs. Compared to the SSC913, the case holds the same movement and has the same 10 bar of water resistance but measures 13mm thick, 41.4mm wide, 45.9mm lug-to-lug, and has 21mm lugs.

The SSC913 has a blue dial with red accents for the running seconds, chronograph seconds hands, and part of the tachymeter bezel. The slight increase in size will be preferable for those who have grown accustomed to larger watches, but the still restrained 45.9mm lug-to-lug allows it to be worn and a wide variety of wrists.

There is a slight price increase to $700, but the choice between the different solar-powered Speedtimers should be based on size and color preference. 

Spoiled for Choice

Seiko has cultivated its following in enthusiast circles based on its track record of building dependable watches. When looking for a sporty watch, buyers have many options in the Seiko 5 and Prospex collections.

Instead of one being overwhelmingly better than the other, it is more a matter of style preference, desired features, and overall budget. Given the number of options available between the Seiko 5 and Prospex collections, there should be something for almost every buyer. 

The Seiko Sumo and Turtle are two of the storied Japanese brand’s most popular dive watches.  They’re both 200-meter divers within Seiko’s Prospex line that come with oversized cases and bulletproof movements.

Even among the throngs of Rolex Submariner acolytes, the Sumo and the Turtle gain much respect for their toughness and tool-watch street cred. Though both watches differ slightly in appearance, they offer similar value for money. 

Nevertheless, the two have enough differences to merit a comparison for those trying to choose between them (why not get both?). We’ve done the research, so you don’t have to. Keep reading to see the similarities and differences between the Seiko Sumo and Seiko Turtle.

After all, when it comes to buying the right watch, knowledge is power. Plus, you might just learn a thing or two!

About the Seiko Sumo

The Seiko Sumo was introduced in 2007 as an ISO-rated dive watch for the masses. The Seiko Sumo is a serious dive watch for serious divers. The Sumo’s development resulted from saturation divers complaining that their timepieces would continually become damaged at great depths because they simply didn’t have the robust case construction to handle the immense pressure. 

Seiko made developing this watch a serious mission, and in 2007, the watch was released to the public. Since that release, it has become one of the most popular dive watches in the world and one that most people can afford! Moreover, it’s almost instantly recognizable to anyone who’s a fan of dive watches.

About the Seiko Turtle

The “Turtle”, as the Seiko Prospex has come to be called by its fans, is quite a bit older than the Sumo. The original iteration of this watch was launched in 1976 (as was I, but that’s neither here nor there). When the watch was first released, the Turtle was a popular model.

However, as the legendary Seiko SKX models began to dominate the affordable diver market, Seiko ceased production of the Turtle for several years. But in 2016 (due in part to demand from the marketplace), collectors and divers were thrilled to hear that the Turtle would be making a return. Some said it was even more exciting than the return of the McRib!

Seiko Sumo Vs. Seiko Turtle: A Clash Between Two Dive Watch Titans

To offer the most thorough comparison of these two rugged divers, we’ve broken them down to some of their most important characteristics. We’ve compared and contrasted so that you get a good idea of what each watch offers and what it doesn’t.

While we understand that choosing a timepiece often comes down to the intangibles, it still helps to know what each watch brings to the table. Read through the following analysis, and you should clearly see which of these two watches is the right pick for your needs.

Case

Case size and shape are typically the first things you’ll notice about any watch. That being said, the Seiko Sumo and the Seiko Turtle have two of the most recognizable cases in the dive watch world. The Turtle may be more iconic due to its very original case design, which does, in fact, resemble a turtle shell.

However, it’s slightly less tall than the Sumo. Both watches are intentionally chunky in every direction, and if you disrespect either, they just may bodyslam you. Both pieces also offer a case size of 45mm, though the shapes differ slightly.

The Turtle has a more rounded and fluid design, while the Sumo’s angular lugs give it a more industrial tool watch look. Another similarity between the two watches is the unidirectional rotating dive bezel. Both have aluminum bezel inserts and offer a pleasing click when rotating the bezel.

Water Resistance

This is another area where the Turtle and the Sumo are equally robust. With solid screw-down crowns and case backs, each watch offers a solid water resistance of 200 meters. Moreover, you’re likely to get even more performance out of each piece than the stated 200 meters, though you’ll probably never have to test that theory yourself. Both watches have the crown around 4 o’clock, a welcome change for many divers from the standard 3 o’clock on most pieces.

Complications

When it comes to complications, the Sumo is available with a day date function, while the Turtle is only available with a date window. While this is likely not a deal breaker for anyone whose main concern is dive readiness, it’s still a consideration for some. Other than that, both watches are standard three-hand divers without many other bells and whistles. 

Their toughness and durability are where they really earn their stripes. If you’re looking for a more complicated dive watch with extras like a helium escape valve or alarm function, you’ll probably want to look elsewhere. These two watches are no-nonsense workhorses that reflect their comfortable price points.

Hands

The handsets on both watches have quite different looks and feel. The Sumo has basic tapered hour and minute hands, while the stick second hand has a small marker toward the end. On the other hand, the Turtle has a plain stick hand seconds hand, a plunger hour hand, and a highly visible arrow hand for the minutes. Both handsets have a sporty feel and are easy to read, but some may find the Turtle’s hands a bit more interesting. 

Movement

The Seiko Sumo houses the impressive Seiko 6R35 automatic movement, which boasts a semi-ridiculous power reserve of 70 hours. While the Sumo’s movement is quite a feat of engineering, the Turtle is no slouch itself. It uses another one of Seiko’s highly accurate and dependable automatic movements, the 4R36. 

It has the same beat rate as the Sumo’s movement and only has a slightly shorter power reserve. What the 4R36 does have over the 6R35 is a day date function. If this is important to you, then you’ll probably want to opt for the versatile Turtle of the simpler and utilitarian Sumo. 

Crystal

As with most standard Seiko divers, the Seiko Sumo and Seiko Turtle come with the brand’s proprietary Hardlex scratch-resistant crystal. Hardlex is made using a mixture of silicon and barium that is heated and combined before it cools and hardens.

According to Seiko, Hardlex is more scratch resistant than the standard mineral glass on most other affordable watches. While many watch collectors may prefer sapphire glass to Hardlex crystal, it’s still a decent step up from the standard mineral glass.

Strap/Bracelet

Both the Turtle and the Sumo come with standard Seiko 316L stainless steel bracelets. While these bracelets are fine for diving, many skilled divers prefer a rubber or nato strap. This is where the Turtle gains another slight advantage.

It has a rubber strap option available at purchase, which the Sumo does not. That said, you can always purchase a rubber strap afterwards for your Sumo, but doing so will be an additional cost and time requirement.

Price & Availability

Both the Seiko Sumo and Seiko Turtle are readily available online and in many stores as well. However, you can expect to pay quite different prices for each. The current models of the Seiko Turtle can be found for around $400.

The Sumo, on the other hand, will cost you a bit more. Most retailers sell the Seiko Sumo for about $700, making it more of an investment than the Turtle. These are prices for new watches. However, on the secondary market, you’re likely to find both at an even lower price, though they will be “previously loved”.

If you don’t mind getting a slightly used version of these watches, then you can probably get a great deal online.

Conclusion

Ultimately, which watch you choose will come down to personal preference. Some will prefer the aesthetics of one model over the other, while legibility and useability will be the determining factors for others. 

The Seiko Turtle and the Seiko Sumo both offer the same basic value proposition. They’re incredibly durable dive watches that won’t have you worried if you get them scratched or beaten up. While not typically mentioned in many reviews of the Turtle and the Sumo, they also make for great-looking daily beaters, even if you never set foot in the water.

Dive watches are the most popular style for most men, so you can’t go wrong with either of these on your wrist in any environment, be it wet or dry. Before choosing between these two equally impressive watches, the most important thing to remember is to be fully informed.

Know what each timepiece offers and doesn’t, and use that knowledge to make a fully informed decision. If you do that, then you’re probably not going to be disappointed in your choice, no matter which route you take.

Whenever someone mentions Seiko, one thing immediately comes to mind: affordable dive watches. Oftentimes, affordability equates to cheapness. In the case of Seiko, they’ve mastered quality and reliable watches without requiring someone to drop their life savings.

If you know anything about the Japanese watch brand, it’s that they have quite the catalog of references, especially when it comes to their divers. Two of the models in particular, the Sumo and the Samurai, are iconic in their own ways, and I’m excited to take a deeper dive into them. I really didn’t mean to make a diving pun there…ok, perhaps I did just a little bit.

At a first glance, the average viewer may think they are a similar watch. Of course, there are similarities between the two, but us watch nerds know better. Let’s discuss each piece’s unique qualities and see if one may just end up on your wrist.

About the Seiko Sumo

Like many Seiko models, the Sumo isn’t limited to one reference number or generation. First introduced in 2007, the original was housed under the reference number SBDC001 and had a black dial with bold, white coloring throughout the lume plots, hands, and numerals on the bezel.

What’s interesting about the Sumo was that it was the first Seiko Diver equipped with the in-house 6R35 automatic movement. Since the release of the original watch, the company has released various generations and colors over the years. 

In 2022, they released the latest versions of the Sumo: a gray dial/black bezel (ref. #SPB323) and a blue dial/blue bezel (ref. #SPB321), both a part of the Prospex line. The Prospex catalog contains a series of various land, sea, and sky sport and adventure models.

Although it’s a relatively large watch at 45mm in diameter, 12.9mm thick, and 52mm lug to lug, the Sumo has great proportions and looks great on the wrist. Visually, it’s stunning, with the dial colors blending from light to dark as you move from the center to the outside. 

A few other highlights to note:

• A beautiful mix of polished and brushed parts gives it the tool watch feel with a flash of elegance.
• The bezel insert is now ceramic allowing it to be far more scratch resistant than aluminum or other materials.
• Being a diving watch, we must mention the water resistance of 200 meters and a screw-down crown.
• The movement is the 6R35 and beats at 3Hz with a 70-hour power reserve. Seiko promises an accuracy of +25/-15 seconds per day.
• The bracelet includes a redesigned folding clasp and a wetsuit extension. Hopefully, you all have your SCUBA certification.

According to Seiko’s website, the current retail price is ~$1,200. The comfortability is certainly there, but I would still suggest trying one on before making the purchase due to its larger size.

About the Seiko Samurai

Can you tell that we love to give Seiko watches their own nicknames? The Tuna, Turtle, Monster, Sumo, the list goes on forever. This particular watch, the Samurai, gets its name from the hour and seconds hands resembling a sword. First released in 2004, this watch was actually discontinued until it was brought back in 2017.

Also housed under the Prospex line, the one we’re taking a closer look at is the newest model ref. #SRPB49. The stainless steel case is 43.8mm in diameter, 13.5mm thick, and 48mm lug to lug. The deep blue dial with the checkered look gives it that bit of extra pop. 

I’m a sucker for multi-colored bezels, and this watch offers a mix of blue between the 3 and 12 and gray between the 12 and 3. Depending on the light on the timepiece, the bezel colors can adjust from dark to light.

A cool little tidbit is that when the hour and minute hands cross each other, they appear like a sword. This is a big reason why the watch is nicknamed the Samurai. I know that effect only happens briefly every hour, but I can’t help but smile at the thought of that detail. Here’s what else you need to know:

• Unlike many newer watches, the Samurai is made with a Hardlex crystal rather than the standard sapphire crystal. The wearer still gets that scratch-resistant durability while keeping the watch’s price down.
• The movement is the self-winding caliber 4R35, which beats at 21,600 vph and has 41 hours of power reserve. The approximate accuracy is -35/+45 seconds per day.
• Seiko is synonymous with great lume, the case here being LumiBrite. Since this watch is ISO-certified, the lume is incredible. ISO is a third-party certification with many factors coming into play. One requirement is that the piece is visible up to 25 cm away in total darkness. It’ll surely shine bright.
• The bezel is unidirectional and has 120 clicks.

It was tough to nail down an exact retail price but all research concluded that this watch can be found in the sub $500 range. When you’re talking about a Seiko automatic diver, that’s one heck of a deal.

Seiko Sumo vs. Seiko Samurai: A Clash Between Two Dive Watch Titans

A question as old as time itself: which one do I buy? Well, why don’t you just buy both? If only it were that simple, right? You may have clicked on this article because you’re in the market for a Seiko diver, perhaps one of these in particular, and you can buy only one.

You’re lucky because I will lay out which one is better and which you should definitely buy! Can you feel the sarcasm yet? If you haven’t figured it out by now, watches are entirely subjective. Sure, there are watches with objectively better specifications, but in general, how we love a watch is down to each individual.

It’s one of the reasons why collecting many or owning one watches is so awesome. Still, we have to compare them, right? To keep them somewhat similar, I’ll mostly be talking about the Sumo blue version (ref. #SPB321) and the Samurai blue version (ref. #SRPB49), even though there are many color variations for each. The weigh-ins are done, and the bell has rung, so let’s go!

Appearance

I don’t know about you, but when I think about a dive watch, I think about a tool. While I consider both pieces capable tool watches, the Sumo has a bit more flashiness due to the mix of polished and brushed parts throughout the case.

The Sumo also has brighter colors, including that stunning dial and the shiny ceramic bezel. Having a more subdued look, the Samurai appears more under the radar and will likely show scratching less due to the mostly brushed case. 

The crown on the Sumo gives that classic Seiko feel with the offset 4 o’clock position, while the Samurai feels more rugged with the non-smooth crown at the more traditional 9 o’clock position. Both have date wheels, and the dials are so well-proportioned that you shouldn’t have trouble reading the time quickly on either piece. The Sumo has circular indices, while the Samurai has baton indices.

Wearability

When I hear people talk about watches, everyone immediately focuses on looks, but to me, comfort may be the most critical factor as to whether or not I like a piece. Both the Sumo and the Samurai are large timepieces, relatively speaking.

While the Sumo has a longer lug to lug by about 4mm, the curved down characteristics of the lugs will hug the wrist nicely, which should provide extra comfort. It’s also slightly thinner than the Samurai, making it feel less bulky and slide under sleeves. While the Samurai doesn’t offer the same curved lugs as the Sumo, the shorter lug-to-lug will also wear comfortably. 

When it comes to thickness, both of the watches are just about the same. I will add that the Samurai has a side profile that is interrupted by a change in design. This will make it appear thinner than it actually is, unlike other watches with more straight, “slab-like” profiles. Both include drilled lugs making strap changes easier if the bracelet look isn’t your style.

Performance

Seiko makes reliable, relatively accurate, and easy-to-work-on movements. You’ll get no argument from me there. The 6R35 movement inside the Sumo has a better accuracy (+25/-15 seconds/day) and a longer power reserve than the Samurai at 70 hours.

All that being said, that’s the way it should be when you’re paying around double the price for a watch. The 41-hour power reserve of the Samurai is nothing to hang your head about, and people seem to have very little issues with the reliable 4R35 movement. 

You get plenty of water resistance on both the Sumo and the Samurai at 200 meters as well as screw-down crowns. I can’t sit here and pretend like I’m an engineer, but I know that there are other technical differences between the two movements.

The ones mentioned above are the two main ones you’ll notice in everyday use. And the lume! Seiko may just be the best at it, and these will shine bright for a long time.

Can You Get Them?

You may be wondering, “that’s an odd question.” If both of these watches are still in production, then why wouldn’t I be able to get them? Oftentimes in the watch world, you’ll find some pieces difficult to obtain, even if the company still produces them. This is mostly caused by two main reasons: short supply and too much demand. 

Luckily, in the case of the Sumo and the Samurai, all indications point to these being readily available, except for a special or limited edition piece. The Sumo retails for ~$1,200, while the Samurai can be found for under $500. Sometimes, especially when it comes to Seiko, you’ll have to do a bit of digging and research to find them.

Seiko’s website authorized dealers, such as Exquisite Timepieces, and your local authorized dealers, are all good places to go. The answer to which one you should buy is easy: purchase the one you like more. I know all too well that that’s easier said than done. Seiko produces incredible watches, so making the wrong decision will be tough.

I like to focus on the look and feel of a timepiece before I start looking at technical specs and cost. A watch can have the greatest movement, accurate to +1/-1 seconds per year, and cost $150,000. But if I don’t want to look at it every day, then I don’t want it. In this scenario, it’s a good thing we have two wrists.  

Today we take a horological dive into the most iconic and affordable legendary timepiece of all time; the Seiko SKX. Arguably the most popular watch that has introduced many enthusiasts to the intricate world of horology, the SKX line was a well-kept Japanese secret until its release in 1996. 

Built as a beater watch that combines the Japanese appreciation of Haute horology and the technical mastery of Seiko, the Seiko SKX is a highly respected watch with a cult following. The two variants, the black SKX007, and the dark blue SKX009 received profound interest from divers worldwide. The Seiko SKX is highly reliable, sturdy, good-looking, and affordable.

However, Seiko has discontinued the production of the SKX diver. So what now? Is it still the go-to beater watch? Are there alternatives to the extremely popular SKX007 and SKX009? Will the discontinued Seiko SKX go up in value? Is it worth the hype in 2022?

Read on to find out answers to these questions and more as we quickly delve into the story behind the launch of the Seiko SKX, its evolution over the years, the most notable watches from the Seiko SKX line, and some excellent alternatives you should be checking out. 

But first, the basic question…

What Is the Seiko SKX?

The Seiko SKX is a line that was introduced by Seiko in 1996. The watches in this series are fitted with the Seiko 7S26 caliber, a 21-jewel automatic movement with 40 hours of power reserve and a 21,600 vph frequency used to power numerous Seiko high-functioning divers with up to 200m water resistance. 

Among the first models introduced at that time, the SKX007 and SKX009 were the two variants that stood out and became the best-selling diver’s watches at that time. The SKX series can trace its DNA back to the creation of Seiko’s (and Japan’s) first diver’s watch, the 150M Diver’s 6217, or 62MAS, as Seiko aficionados, call it. 

Launched to contend with Swiss rivals and even beat them in terms of quality, reliability, and performance, the Diver’s 6217 was originally made for the 1964 Japanese Olympics with Seiko as the official timing partner. 

The 150M Diver portrayed all the elements of a true diver’s watch. The hour makers and hands were luminescent, the bezel could rotate bi-directionally, and it was fitted with the cal. 6127, a 17-jewel automatic movement that guaranteed water resistance up to 150 meters deep.

The watch was largely successful due to its accessibility, reliability, and affordability. It received great responses and immediately placed Seiko in a strong position in the global market and marked the beginning of Seiko’s pursuit of the creation of reliable diver watches.

Following the success of the Diver’s 6217, Seiko made history again with the professional diver’s 600M, an impressive tool watch for exploring the deep crafted out of titanium. Fast forward to the 1980s, and several world firsts diving watches would be produced by the brand. 

These include the world’s first Hybrid Diver’s 150M (the Seiko H558 Arnie), which came with an alarm and chronograph and was launched in 1982. And how could we forget the world’s first Diver’s 1000M (7C46-7009), which featured a ceramic outer case in 1986, and the world’s best-selling Quartz Diver’s 200 meters watch (7c43-6010) in 1985.

As production of the 6309 ended (it reigned from 1976 to 1988), Seiko replaced it with the very first non-prospex timepiece (Prospex means Professional Specifications, and the Prospex collection is lined with high-end Seiko tool watches) by way of the 7002. 

A timepiece that was rugged on all levels and became the first true beater watch made by Seiko for extreme sports, manual labor, and everyday use. 

It was loved immediately after it hit the market, achieving immense fame among personnel of various military forces and freedivers all over the globe. It is a predecessor to the modern-day SKX, which picks up where the 7002 left off. 

So we have established that the Seiko SKX was introduced in 1996 and is a worthy descendant of the Seiko 7002. However, a few variants stand out, like the popular and loved black SKX007, one of the most highly recommended and affordable mechanical tool watches in recent history.

What Makes the Seiko SKX So Iconic?

Seiko SKX watches have all been discontinued by Seiko, but they remain widely available. Compared to other Seiko collections, the SKX line is the 3rd most popular, with an outstanding design, sturdy construction, reliable movement, and affordable price. 

The SKX007 and SKX009 were two of the longest-running models by the brand, as they were produced in huge numbers for over twenty years. But, again, why… just why is the Seiko SKX so popular? Read on to find out.

1. The Movement

All the watches from the SKX line are fitted with Seiko’s 7S26 movement. A solid automatic movement was first released in 1996. It is built around four primary moving parts and has been reported to work perfectly well for five to twenty years without needing servicing. 

The 7S26 is also a prized workhorse, thanks to Seiko’s proprietary diashock anti-shock system that makes it resistant to damage from falls. Beating at a rate of 21,600 bph, the 7S26 features 21 jewels, a quickset day/date display, an automatic bi-directional winding, and a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. 

Its accuracy has been rated at approximately -20 to +40 seconds per day which is pretty large, although the movement can be adjusted to gain a higher accuracy. It is non-hand winding and non-hacking and can still be found in some entry-level Seiko 5 watches. 

Overall, the movement is affordable, reliable, and doesn’t require much maintenance to keep it running smoothly. After its discontinuation, it was replaced with the upgraded 4R36, which features hacking and hand-winding.

2. The Accessible Price Point

The SKX line was never meant to be a luxury collection. It was just meant to continue the brand’s legacy of excellent affordable watches. That said, because it uses an inexpensive movement paired with some standard watch components, the price point is insanely accessible.

Before Seiko discontinued it, the Seiko SKX sold for $150 to $250 for a new piece. Three years after its discontinuation, the watches in the Seiko SKX collection can still be obtained below the $500 mark on the private sales market.

3. The Case and Dial

The case and dial of the Seiko SKX line take cues from its predecessor, the 7002, giving it a universal appeal. The case bears the unique Seiko design with Seiko’s trademark Tsunami logo at its back. There are claims that the Seiko Tsunami Logo is based on Japan’s Most Famous Artwork, The Great Wave (Kanagawa Oki Nami Ura). 

The woodblock print by Hokusai Katsushika (1760-1849) depicts an imposing picture of a rogue wave with three boats and Mount Fuji in the background. Given the importance of the Hokusai woodcut in Japanese culture, it’s hard to imagine the Tsunami Logo has nothing to do with it.

Back to the Seiko SKX case, the diameter measures 42mm, while a compact lug-to-lug distance of 46mm, means it wears well on a variety of small to medium-sized wrists. The thickness measures 13.5mm, meaning it’s hefty but not too bulky for active work, while the crown at the 4 o’clock position won’t dig into the wearer’s wrist. 

Overall, the case is clean and good-looking, with smooth finishings between the sections and a brushed surface finish on the top. The dial is super legible, with vivid colors that make it stand out clearly. It shines through a Hardlex crystal – which is fine considering the price – with Hardlex being more scratch-resistant than regular mineral crystal.

Apart from this, it is almost impossible to find a mid-priced Seiko timepiece fitted with a Sapphire Crystal. The hands and big, chunky, painted hour markers stand out prominently. They are generously filled with the legendary Seiko Lumibrite luminescent solution, making the watch stand out clearly in the dark. 

Aesthetically, there’s nothing not to love about the SKX’s dial. It is extremely legible, as one would hope a Sports watch from Seiko would be, and gives you need and more; a day/date display at the 3 o’clock position. How cool is that?

Is the Seiko SKX Discontinued?

To the world’s dismay, in the 2nd half of 2019, Seiko officially announced the discontinuation of the Seiko SKX. Though you can still find new ones, the only place where you can obtain one is on the gray market with a significant value appreciation. 

So the lack of availability has only increased the demand (and, of course, the price), which is normal, as discontinued timepieces are one of the most highly sought-after and coveted watches in the pre-owned market. The Seiko SKX has remained legendary as a rugged, capable, and affordable beater watch option and can still be obtained below the $500 mark in the gray market.

Should You Buy a New or Pre-owned SKX?

The watches in the Seiko SKX line were created to stand the test of time and can still be worn after decades with an assurance of their quality intact. 

When it comes to choosing between a new or pre-owned SKX, it all boils down to personal preference, even though the most apparent reason why anyone would choose to buy a pre-owned SKX rather than the new one is the difference in price and availability. 

Purchasing a new piece means you’re guaranteed to receive a complete box set with all the accessories, a full warranty from the manufacturer, and of course, the assurance of knowing the watch has never been worn. 

On the other hand, if you’re buying pre-owned, you might not get some accessories or any warranty, and if it had not been serviced by a highly reputable source, it can be less reliable and incur problems over time. 

Seiko SKX References & Current Prices

The design of the SKX bears a resemblance to the eye-catching original 1980s Seiko 7002 diver watch that was famous for its unique features. Signature translucent dials with distinctive rectangular hour markers showcase the day/date disc rotation with profound legibility that adds to the retro effect. 

And though there might be slight differences between the variants in the Seiko SKX line, the watches here are known for durability, performance, and value.

Since the introduction of the SKX series in 1996, the collection has remained globally respected among collectors. Its flawless 42-mm case size, robust caliber 7S26, affordable price, and 200 meters of water resistance made it the gateway timepiece to the world of dive watches.

Seiko SKX007

The Seiko SKX007 gets the most attention out of all the SKX watches due to its universal black dial design. Even though the SKX007 receives a lot of attention, the iconic ISO-rated dive watch is not the only legendary timepiece from the SKX line. 

There’s also the SKX173 variation which was made specifically for the North American market. The watch bears the same resemblance with SKXs, but subtle differences can be noticed on the dial (such as rectangular hour makers, different seconds hands with a lumed circle at the head and not the tail, bolder triangles on the bezel, etc).

Seiko SKX009

The second most popular SKX reference is the Seiko SKX009. It’s very similar to the 007 but features a deep blue dial with an iconic “Pepsi” bezel. Its American-market counterpart was the SKX175, although there weren’t any significant differences between the two pieces. Still, the navy blue dial with the contrasting red part of the bezel was adored by many watch collectors around the world.

Seiko SKX013

Another famous SKX model is the SKX013. This is a smaller watch with a diameter of 38mm and a lug-to-lug of only 44mm. This compact size made it ideal for people with smaller wrists or those who prefer a smaller watch. The SKX013 featured the same dial and bezel combination as the SKX007 but with a different seconds hand.

Seiko SKX011

The Seiko SKX011 was an underrated model in the SKX family that did not gather the fame and attention of its brothers. This mostly comes down to its polarizing color combination of an orange dial and black bezel with gold accents. 

But these colors should be very familiar to fans of the Seiko Orange Monster models. Another issue with the SKX011 is that it’s a Japanese Domestic Market model that wasn’t officially released in the West, making it difficult to find.

Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) Seiko SKX

While Seiko is a Japanese watch brand that designs all its watches, most SKX watches were not actually manufactured in Japan. Instead, only a handful was built in Seiko’s Japanese factories, and they were primarily aimed at the Japanese market.

Most Seiko SKX watches were manufactured in Seiko factories in Malaysia or Singapore. These models are indicated by the K letter next to the model name (SKX007K1). Comparatively, the Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) SKX watches are denoted by the letter J (SKX007J1). 

Essentially, the two types of SKX watches are identical, besides a bit of writing on the dial. But, there’s the notion that JDM models have better construction, finishing, and quality control. While this hasn’t been proven, and Seiko hasn’t confirmed it, watch fans tend to go for the JDM vs the K models if they can find them.

Current Seiko SKX Prices

When it comes to pricing, it is difficult to put a pin on the price of these watches since Seiko has discontinued the SKX line. What’s worth mentioning is that on the gray market, the JDM models sell for approximately 20% more than the K models. The exotic nature of the JDM SKX watches (in addition to their limited availability) plays a vital role in their popularity and price. 

Demand and supply shifts may largely affect the price point, but at the time of writing this article, brand-new JDM Seiko SKX watches can be obtained between $600 – $850. Comparatively, the K models demand between $450 – $600 (with the K1s/rubber strap variants being more affordable than the K2s/steel bracelet variants). 

With supply becoming lower every day since the discontinuation of the SKX, more and more watch fans will eventually turn to the second-hand market to find SKX watches. Pricing on the used market can vary significantly and heavily depends on the condition of the watch. Always make sure to do your research before shopping for one though, as there are a lot of counterfeit SKX watches out there.

Seiko SKX Replacements

When Seiko discontinued the SKX line in the second half of 2019, they quickly followed up with a more elegant version of the sports watch to appeal to the next generation of consumers: the Seiko 5 Sports collection. Interestingly, all of Seiko’s diver’s watches are now Prospex logo-signed.

Seiko 5 What?

Originally released in the 1960s, Seiko 5 was meant to deliver highly durable beater watches with profound levels of reliability, durability, performance, and value at an affordable price. Its rebirth as a replacement for the revered SKX line is no surprise, as it is a proper replacement for any value-hungry collector or buyer. 

Taking inspiration from its predecessor, the 5 Sports collection comes with the same values as the originals. But, it incorporates a fresh new look and the numeral ‘’5’’, representing the original five key features of every Seiko 5 timepiece present today: Automatic movement, Day-date display, Water Resistance, Recessed crown, and durable case and bracelet. 

One of the major improvements in this replacement is the upgrade from the popular 7S36 movement to the Caliber 4R36, which was a very good move since the 7S36 caliber was outdated and couldn’t be wound by hand. 

The new Caliber 4R36 now offers wearers the desirable hacking and hand-winding functionality in addition to all the features of the 7S36 movement; hours, minutes, central seconds, day/date calendar at 3 o’clock, an anti-shock system, 41 hours of power reserve and 21,600 bph. 

The Seiko 5 Sports has a dial and case that resembles the SKX watches, but this time the lugs are drilled, and the case back is transparent to offer you a perfect view of the timekeeping mechanics in action. 

Unlike the SKX, this line includes watches with a push-pull crown, not a screw-down one. The disadvantage of this is a lowered water resistance rating from 200m to 100m which is okay for swimming and snorkeling but not deep diving.

Different strap styles with more choices in various colors, including stainless steel, leather, rubber, silicone, and even interchangeable nylon bands that appeal to different sections of the market, have been vastly improved in 5 Sports. 

The rubber straps are now softer and more pliable. A striking sunray or cool matte dial features the signature Seiko 5 Sports logo on all the watches, and luminous hand and indices with a day/date calendar keep the spirit of the SKX line alive on the wrist of the wearer.

 Before we look at the Pros and Cons of both collections, here’s a quick rundown on a few models in the Seiko 5 Sports

1. SRPD71

The stainless steel case of the SRPD71 measures 42.5mm in diameter with a thickness of 13mm. The size of the casing bears a resemblance to the SKX. The SRPD71 “suit style” is a more elegant version of the 5 Sports line. 

Its shape is round, and the bezel is unidirectional. However, it looks to be smaller, with the stainless steel crown resting between a crown guard elegantly positioned at 4 o’clock to prevent it from digging into the wrist, thereby increasing comfort. 

The matte metallic blue dial goes well with cream-colored indices, and a sharp-looking mesh (Milanese style) steel bracelet gives it an overall crisp look without bordering on “bling bling”. 

So it’s subtle but not distracting and the matte effect over the metallic dial, in addition to luminous arrow-styled hands and markers, offers an excellent level of legibility that is beautiful to behold. 

A day-date window is positioned at three o’clock, and it is powered by Seiko’s own in-house automatic caliber 4R36 movement, which is viewable through the exhibition case back.

2. SRPD91

The SRPD91 “Sports Style” has all the design elements that define the SKX line but with an improved build quality and a higher price tag of around $300 compared to the SKX.

 It comes in a stainless steel black PVD case that measures 42.5mm in diameter with a thickness of 13.4mm, which is a fantastic measurement considering that it is a sports watch and has a very straightforward design. 

The grainy black dial with slight matte finishing has applied hour markers, one of the upgrades compared to the SKX line that came with printed ones, with a generous amount of Lumibrite applied to them to ensure a long-lasting glow. 

Overall, the dial is clean, simple, and highly legible, with the classic Seiko 5-day and date window at 3 o’clock. It is presented in an olive green nylon NATO strap that offers versatility and a tactical military look. It is equipped with the in-house automatic caliber 4R36, which, unlike the SKX line, has hacking seconds and manual winding functions.

3. SPRD77

I found myself gravitating towards the SPRD77 “Sense Style” the most. For starters, it has a unique green dial with a lot more details and an interesting texture than other models in this price range. The case size and design are the same as the last generation SKXs, and it comes with a green nylon NATO strap with a gunmetal buckle and catchers. 

There’s something about the orange seconds hand sweeping over tiny plateaus and valleys and breaking up the more or less monochromatic dial that is just appealing. Encompassing the edge of the dial is the chapter ring with silver-printed second markers.

In contrast, the color of the coin edge bezel is a deeper teal of gunmetal gray, which compliments the dial nicely. Inside, the 4R36, a 24-jewel automatic movement with hacking and hand-winding functionality, provides approximately 40 hours of power reserve.

Seiko SKX

Pros

• Number one beater watch; easy to wear all day long for any kind of activity.
• Great looks with a timeless design.
• Exceptional value for money
• Most accessible entry-level diver’s of all time

Cons

• Discontinued line with Inflated prices.
• Outdated 7S26 in-house movement with no hacking or hand-winding.
• Unconventional crown position at four o’clock.
• Tons of modern alternatives on the market

Seiko 5 Sports

Pros

• Sturdy and robust movement with hacking and hand-winding.
• Bright lume markers.
• Insane durability.

Cons

• Lack of a screw-down crown.
• Not ideal for diving as it lacks the 200m of water resistance.
• Hefty weight.

Seiko SKX Alternatives

The Seiko SKX007 was indeed one of the most popular dive watches on the market, with a near cult following before the discontinuation of the SKX line in 2019. 

Let’s be honest now. It’s 2022, and apart from the inflated prices of most SKX watches on the gray market, many of them lack a modern twist which can be found in alternatives, even from Seiko, as the brand has over thirty new Seiko 5 Sports models that are a great alternative to the discontinued SKX line.

Anyone who has always wanted to sport a Seiko SKX timepiece but balked at the inflated prices should definitely take a closer look at these alternatives. There are a few awesome alternatives to the Seiko SKX that come with a screw-down crown, 200+ meters of water resistance, and are under $500.

Seiko Samurai SRPB51

The Seiko Samurai SRPB51 has been one of the most popular watches from Seiko’s ”Prospex” and ”Samurai” collections for over five years. Like the SKX007, the watch boasts 200 meters of water resistance and luminous markings. Adding to that are a classic design and handy additional features, such as a hacking movement and manual winding. 

Even if you’re already familiar with the Samurai, as many collectors are, here’s some background; Seiko Samurai was first introduced in 2004 and was well received by the audience because of its robustness and sleek design. It was called the Samurai because of its sword-shaped hands and was available in titanium and stainless steel. 

The Samurai SRPB51 is an excellent alternative to the SKX because it’s an affordable yet well-built sporty dive watch that is really accurate, has amazing lume, and is easily read. It might be bulky at 43.8mm, and hefty with a case thickness of 13.5mm, but that’s exactly why it’s a robust sports watch. 

The textured dial is stunning, clean, and legible, with polished second, hour, and minute hands that feature a generous amount of Lumibrite. Speaking of cleanliness, the dial features the Prospex logo, the word ‘Automatic’, the depth rating, and a discreet date window at 3 o’clock.

The Seiko Samurai SRPB51 is fitted with Seiko’s proprietary Hardlex crystal and the Seiko’s caliber 4R35, which offers a reasonable 41-hour power reserve. It also comes with a bracelet that has a three-fold clasp to keep it secure and in place.

The Seiko Prospex “Turtle” SRPC25K1

The Seiko Prospex “Turtle” comes with an oval case that resembles a turtle’s shell, hence the nickname by followers of the brand. The Turtle line first surfaced in 1976 under the name 6306, but it’s unclear if production continued when the SKX came on board. 

It resurfaced in 2019 and has become a desired alternative to the discontinued SKX line. The Seiko Prospex “Turtle” is instantly recognizable due to its cushion-shaped, oval case and crown at the 4 o’clock position – a historic trait of the Turtle line, which is one feature that facilitates a comfortable fit. The case is large with a diameter of 44.3 mm but doesn’t feel oversized on the wrist, partly due to the short lugs and soft curves. 

The dial is legible and Seiko, as always, uses its luminous material, LumiBrite, for the indices. The hour, minute, and seconds hands are also coated in LumiBrite, and the luminous material is only absent at 3 o’clock, where the day and date display sits. 

Seiko’s Hardlex crystal, which is between the standard mineral glass and the sapphire crystal in terms of durability and scratch resistance, is used here with a stainless steel bracelet that has a practical diver’s extension. 

Overall, the Seiko Prospex SRPC25K1 is a robust diving watch that is water-resistant to 200 meters (20 bar, 656 ft). The reliable automatic in-house caliber 4R36 offers a power reserve of 41 hours, hacking seconds, and a manual-winding function.

Prospex Special PADI Edition Samurai Black

The PADI collection is exclusive to Seiko and stands for Professional Association of Diving Instructors, which happens to be one of the world’s leading scuba diving training organizations that unifies divers who share a passion for adventure and love for the ocean around the globe.

Featuring an elegant ceramic bezel with light blue color highlights, the angular-shaped design has been nicknamed King Samurai by Seiko fans. That’s because the case looks as if it had been sliced by a Japanese Samurai sword, though it’s the concave curvature of the middle part of the case.

The Prospex special PADI edition has an impressive 200 meters water resistance, a 43.8mm case with 22mm lugs, which makes changing the bracelet easy, a 120-click unidirectional bezel, a date display, and a screw-down crown situated at three o’clock. 

The watch uses a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on the inner surface and has an overall flat face and chamfered edge. On the inside of that is a well-executed dial that is superbly clean with a mind-blowing lume. 

The back of the case is opaque – so unlike some watches in this collection, you won’t be able to see the movement beating inside – and screwed down with a recessed stamp of the Seiko Tsunami logo on the back. 

Beneath it, Seiko’s manufactured Caliber 4R36 offers a power reserve of approximately 41 hours alongside the hacking seconds and a manual-winding function.

Other SKX Alternatives Aside From Seiko

There are several outstanding diving watches on the market with rock-solid specs and price tags that are hard to resist. And while they may look the same at a glance, they all have distinct looks and features to suit different tastes. Let’s take a look at some standout performers.

Orient Kamasu (Mako III)

The Orient Kamasu is one badass model that can make us forget the SKX and is also one of the most popular diving watches from Orient. Not only is the Kamasu an affordable quality timepiece, but it is also a valuable collectible for those just entering the realm of collecting, and every great entry-level dive watch list certainly has its name. 

This is the most standard entry-level Orient diver’s. And guess what? It comes with Sapphire glass. Made entirely of 316L stainless steel, the size of this watch’s casing is 41.8mm wide with a thickness of 12.8mm and a lug-to-lug of 47mm. The timepiece is just right and will sit snugly on various wrists. 

It weighs in at 154 grams (this figure varies slightly depending on the strap), making it more or less equal to the SKX. The shape is different, though. It uses a flat sapphire crystal and has no curvature or doming, so there’s no distortion of the indices when read from an angle. Also, the crown at the conventional 3 o’clock position is not SKX-like. 

The bracelet is versatile, with links that mimic the finishing pattern of the case and a clasp double secured by two side-release buttons and a flip-lock. Orient and Seiko collaborated to present the caliber F6922, which powers the watch. 

The caliber F6922 is an improved and robust movement that contains 22 jewels, beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour, offers both manual winding and hacking capabilities, and exhibits a power reserve of 40 hours.

Citizen Promaster Diver (BN0150-28E)

With an irresistible price tag, the Citizen Promaster Diver is one of Citizen’s most popular diving watches! It is definitely worth considering as an alternative to the discontinued SKX line as it is a solar-powered analog quartz watch with an insane power reserve of approximately six months.

Featuring a 44-millimeters-wide stainless-steel case with the crown and date at the 4 o’clock position, the Promaster Diver is a little smaller than the old Promaster Diver. Instead of a mechanical movement inside, there’s an Eco Drive caliber. 

Yes, let’s talk about this stunning gloss black dial! One of the great strengths of the Promaster Automatic and many of the watches in this collection is how readable the hands are. The dial is pretty basic – no surprises at all. 

The large white trapezoidal markers for the hours contrast perfectly against the black dial, with stylized hands that enable you to easily differentiate minutes and hours, joining forces to enhance legibility. 

Both markers and hands are primarily covered in luminous material, while the brand’s logo can be seen below 12 o’clock, and a water resistance indicator stays above the 6 o’clock position. Overall the watch is solid, well-executed, and good-looking.

Like the SKX, it has a 200m water resistance, a screwed case back, a unidirectional bezel with a 60-minute scale printed on an aluminum insert, and a bright lume in the hands and time indices.

Conclusion

Seiko has been in the watchmaking business since 1881. The brand is recognized worldwide for Its technological innovation and accessibility. Seiko’s timepieces represent precision and ingenuity; anyone who keys in the words ‘best entry-level watch’ into any search engine would find the SKX littered across top suggestions. 

The reason is simple. The SKX is possibly the choicest iteration of an affordable tool watch the vast world of watchmaking has unveiled for a very long time. The movement (7S26) is robust, reliable, and durable and proffers decades of carefree service. The watch itself is impressively accurate, with a flawless design and decent bezel action. 

The case is rock solid, and the dial is a true reminiscence of the ’90s. If you are thinking of adding one to your collection, go right ahead!