Category: Seiko

Quartz watches were watchmaking’s crowning achievement when they debuted in the late 1960s. Seiko unveiled their first quartz watch on December 29th, 1969, the Seiko Quartz Astron 35SQ. At the time, it cost 450,000 Japanese Yen, which was as much as some cars at the time.

Today (March 2023), 450,000 JPY is equivalent to 3,300 USD. Even though early quartz watches were the pinnacle of accuracy, and brands charged accordingly, Seiko quickly figured out how to mass-produce quartz watches to make them affordable.

This sparked the quartz crisis, as quartz watches are more durable, accurate, and cheaper to produce and maintain than mechanical watches. From the perspective of practicality, quartz is much better than mechanical. But what if the battery never needed to be changed?

Seiko Solar Quartz: Background and Range of Models

To add to quartz watches existing practicality, Seiko unveiled their first solar-powered quartz watch in 1978, eliminating the pesky battery change every few years. Provided the user could keep the watch in some sort of light regularly, it would run accurately.

Modern solar-powered watches have power save modes that preserve battery life, should the owner stick the timepiece in a drawer for a short while. In their most basic configuration, solar-powered watches operate much like conventional watches. You set the time normally via the crown, and as long as the battery has power, it’ll keep time within the tolerances allowed by the movement.

On the other end of the spectrum, there are Seiko’s Astron GPS Solar watches, which host a wide range of complications, and sync to GPS signals, allowing to correct any inaccuracies with the movement, ensuring that the watch always displays the correct local time. 

Seiko offers a range of solar-powered watches in their current catalog, from very simple and affordable to quite complicated and high-end, and everything in between. The most affordable models will be made with mineral crystals, have a small amount of water resistance, and will only show the time and maybe the date. 

As the price increases, features such as titanium cases instead of stainless steel, sapphire crystals, higher water resistance, additional complications, and GPS functionality will enter the picture. In terms of battery life, simple models will run for approximately 10 months on a full charge. 

More advanced models will have a power reserve of 6 months. Still, with the addition of a power saving function (similar to a computer’s sleep mode), the watch will continue to keep accurate time for 2 years internally. But it will not display any functions until the watch is worn and exposed to light. 

Due to the many benefits of solar quartz watches, they have proven popular with many consumers. Seiko has taken this into consideration and offers a wide variety of solar quartz watches and various different prices.

The Best Seiko Solar Watches

1. Seiko SNE039

With a retail price of 195 USD, the SNE039 is very much on the affordable end of the spectrum. The splash-resistant rated stainless steel case measures 37.4mm wide and 9.2mm thick and has 20mm lugs. The black dial and lumed hands and indices are covered by a Hardlex crystal. 

The V158 Solar movement inside is rated to +/- 15 seconds per month and has a 10-month power reserve when fully charged. The movement also features a day/date display and has a function that prevents overcharging of the battery. While the style of the watch is versatile, the limited water resistance limits this watch to desk duty. If hassle-free and unobtrusive are the order, the SNE039 will be a great fit.

2. Seiko SNE529

The SNE529 has the same V158 movement inside, but the finishing on the 40mm wide case is much improved. There are contrasting brushed and polished sections on the case and bezel, and the sunburst green dial with gold indices is covered by a sapphire crystal. 

The 20mm wide brown leather strap may indicate more dressy attire, but a strap change will make this watch more water worthy with its 100 meters of water resistance. These upgrades do increase the cost to 240 USD, but they do make the watch very suitable for everyday wear. The SNE529 makes for a worry-free ownership experience. 

3. Seiko SNE329

If dress watches are not the desired style, the SNE329 may be a better fit. At 195 USD, the blue pilot-inspired dial with lumed hands and indices is covered with a Hardlex crystal, but the sporting design is backed up with 100 meters of water resistance. 

Significantly larger, the 43mm wide stainless steel case comes with the V158 movement inside and is attached to a blue nylon strap. The SNE329 is casual and bold and will definitely be more of a statement on the wrist. 

4. Seiko SSC667

Part of the Recraft series, the SSC667 is inspired by Seiko designs from the 1960s and 70s. The case design and blue and orange color scheme is indicative of the era, inspiring notions of motorsport ambitions. The V175 movement is rated to +/-15 seconds per month.

It features a 60-minute chronograph, 24-hour indication, and date display. The battery will last up to 6 months when fully charged and includes an overcharge prevention feature. The sunray-finished bright blue dial and tachymeter are covered by a Hardlex crystal. 

The 43.6mm wide case is 12.2mm thick, has 100 meters of water resistance, and the nylon strap measures 22mm wide. The 350 USD retail price is largely due to the added complication of the chronograph. Seiko’s solar-powered chronographs have been an enthusiast favorite, as they offer a reliable and affordable way to add a chronograph to the collection. 

5. Seiko SUP880

Many collectors focus on sports watches but realize that their favorite dive watch is not always appropriate. If the need for a true dress watch is a rare occasion, a solar-powered dress watch is a great solution. The long power reserve and lower cost compared to a mechanical watch make these watches easy to wear whenever needed. 

The SUP880 is powered by the V115 movement, displaying only the time, and has a 12-month power reserve when fully charged. Measuring 28.4mm wide and 6.1mm thick, the dimensions may seem small, but rectangular watches wear larger than their dimensions suggest.

The Hardlex crystal and splash-resistant rating may not put this watch in consideration for one of the most durable, but it should still be able to handle a formal evening out. The SUP880 has a retail price of 195 USD.

6. Seiko SNE549

The convenience of a solar quartz watch still applies to sports watches. While mechanical movements are fascinating and charismatic, solar quartz watches allow for a low-maintenance user experience. The SNE549 is a PADI Special Edition dive watch that measures 43.5mm wide and 11.6mm thick, with a 20mm wide bracelet. The Hardlex crystal may be preferred in this context, as it is less prone to shattering than sapphire. 

Inside is the V157 movement, which adds a quick start function, which starts the watch after the battery has been depleted, and the seconds hand will move every two seconds. With 200 meters of water resistance and a unidirectional bezel, the SNE549 is an ISO-certified dive watch, ready for water adventures. The SNE549 retails for 395 USD and provides a great affordable, low-maintenance option for a dive watch. 

7. Seiko SSC811

Coming from Seiko’s Coutura collection, the SSC811 is one of Seiko’s boldest designs. The large 45.5mm wide case measures 56mm lug to lug and 12.3mm thick. The stainless steel case is colored black with a hard coating, and the textured black dial with rose gold accents is covered by a sapphire crystal.

Inside is the V192 movement, which offers accuracy rated to +/-15 seconds per month, a 6-month power reserve, a 60-minute chronograph, power reserve indication, date, and 24-hour indication. Backing up the sporting looks of the SSC811 is a water resistance of 100 meters and a screw-down crown.

The silicone strap is integrated into the design, allowing for a cohesive look between the case and strap, but limits strap options to those offered by the brand. The added complications and more premium features increase the retail price to 495 USD, which is still a relatively low price for a reliable watch with a bold contemporary design. 

8. Seiko SNJ025

The SNJ025 has been nicknamed “The Arnie” after the watch the famous actor wore in Commando and Predator. This 47.8mm wide watch has a large demeanor to match the famous actor, but a relatively restrained 50.5mm lug-to-lug and 13.8mm thickness allow it to maintain some semblance of wearability.

The SNJ025 is utility focused, with the H851 Ana-digi movement inside. This solar quartz is rated to +/-15 seconds a month, with a 6-month power reserve, and 20 months when in power save mode. The movement functions include a 100-hour chronograph, alarm function, perpetual calendar, low battery warning, and an LED light function for the dial.

Rated to 200 meters of water resistance, and with a unidirectional rotating bezel, screw-down crowns and case back, this dive watch is prepared to deal with whatever can be thrown at it. The Hardlex crystal’s improved shatter resistance is preferred in this application over a sapphire crystal. The SNJ025 retails for 525 USD. 

9. Seiko SSG015

Adding a world time function and radio sync functionality to the previously discussed solar-powered chronograph and date movements, the SSG015 with the 8B92 movement inside ensures accuracy while traveling the globe. The quartz movement alone is more accurate than a mechanical watch, but the radio sync automatically receives radio signals to adjust the time, making certain the accurate time is displayed. 

The 45mm wide black coated case measures 13mm thick, 50mm lug to lug, and is rated to 100 meters of water resistance, 13mm thick. The black dial with Breguet-style printed numerals is covered by a Hardlex Crystal. The SSG015 had a retail price of 595 USD but has been discontinued. New old stock and used examples are readily available, with prices varying depending on condition. 

10. Seiko SNE575

A common complaint of many modern dive watches is their larger size. While larger dials aid in legibility, the case sizes also increase, making them difficult to wear for many people with smaller wrists. Additionally, some buyers prefer a smaller watch. The SNE575 is a PADI special edition dive watch with 200 meters of water resistance, a unidirectional bezel, and a screw-down crown.

The case measures 38.5mm wide, 10.6mm thick, and 46.5mm lug to lug. Behind the dial and sapphire crystal is the V147 movement, with a rated accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month, a 10-month power reserve, low battery indication, and a date display. While the size is smaller, the SNE575 is no less capable than many other dive watches on the market. The SNE575 retails for 495 USD.

11. Seiko SSC813

The SSC813 has been a recent fan favorite of the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer collection. With a conventionally sized 39mm wide case and tri-compax dial layout, the SSC813 allows collectors to own a conventional-looking chronograph without the headaches of a vintage mechanical one.

The white dial with dark sub-dials is covered with a curved sapphire crystal. The V192 movement is rated to +/- 15 seconds per month, has a 6-month power reserve, 60-minute chronograph, 24-hour display, and date.

The 100 meters of water resistance will also ensure durability for daily wear. The case measures 13.3mm thick and 45.5mm lug to lug, making it wearable for various buyers. With a retail price of 675 USD, a modern feature set, and good looks, it is easy to see why enthusiasts have been excited about the SSC813.

12. Seiko SNE455

If a bold design without complications is desired, the SNE455 could be a good fit. Measuring 42.9mm wide and 10.99mm thick, the larger case diameter, angular case, and bracelet design will draw attention. Inside is the V157 movement, rated to +/- 15 seconds a month and a 10-month power reserve, with low power indication and date function. 

The sapphire crystal and 100 meters of water resistance make this watch more than capable of handling daily wear and can handle light swimming use. The SNE455 retailed for 440 USD but has been discontinued. Fortunately, plenty of used and new old stock examples are available with some light research online.

13. Seiko SSH065J1

As a full expression of what Seiko is capable of in solar quartz watches, the SSH065 is part of their higher-end Astron collection. The 42.8mm wide case and 21mm wide bracelet are made from titanium with a super-hard coating. Measuring 14.7mm thick and 50.3mm lug to lug, the watch will wear a little large, but some of the size is due to accommodating the various functions. 

The 5X53 movement is a GPS-syncing solar quartz movement, which allows for accurate time display as long as the watch is able to receive a GPS signal. The battery life is rated to 6 months and 2 years while in power save mode. The movement also features a perpetual calendar, world time function, dual time display, day and date display, power reserve indicator, the ability to swap the two time displays, daylight savings time setting, and automatic hand position alignment. 

In a way, this could be the ultimate traveler’s watch, as it will automatically keep accurate time and display the correct local time anywhere in the world, assuming there is a GPS signal. With 200 meters of water resistance and a sapphire crystal, the SSH065 should be able to handle a wide variety of situations and look good doing it. The SSH065 retails for 2500 USD. 

14. Seiko SNE479

With an integrated bracelet and minimalist dial, the design-oriented look of the SNE479 makes for a striking watch. The 40.1mm wide and 9mm thick case features a hard coating and a Hardlex crystal. Inside is the V157 solar movement seen before. 

While the hard coating will protect the case and bracelet from small scratches that result from daily wear, the watch is only splash resistant, making it unsuitable for sporting activities. However, the bold look of the large minimalist black dial and integrated design can handle a night out. The SNE479 retails for 250 USD, leaving room for another round. 

15. Seiko SNE586

Should the SNE575 be a bit bland, the SNE586 offers a more contemporary and bold take on the smaller dive watch. Featuring the same case dimensions and features as the SNE575, the change to the rose gold plated case, and a black silicone strap to match the black dial and bezel make the SNE586 more fashion-forward.

While the look is more daring, it is no less capable than the SNE575, maintaining 200 meters of water resistance and a sapphire crystal. The SNE586 has the same retail price of 495 USD, making the decision between the two a matter of aesthetic preference rather than differences in specifications.

Conclusion

Seiko’s development of their own solar quartz technology has allowed them to create a wide variety of watches for a wide variety of buyers. With long power reserves, no need to change batteries, and great accuracy, solar-powered quartz watches have many benefits. 

Should the worry-free ownership experience be appealing, Seiko undoubtedly makes a watch that will suit any desired needs. These 15 watches offer a brief overview of the Men’s models Seiko has available. 

The movement or caliber in a watch is like the motor in a car, the mechanism in a gearbox, or the beating heart in your chest. For centuries engineers have pushed the boundaries of what is possible with an automatic movement, and with contemporary mechanics, watch calibers are better than ever. 

The pride of Japan, Seiko, is one of the leading caliber suppliers to the watch world and has produced several different kinds over the years. From high complications to a humble date function, let’s look at the 15 best Seiko movements. 

About Seiko Movements

As mentioned, Seiko is incredibly innovative with horological movements and has been one of the leading caliber makers since its beginning. The first of the Seiko watches to feature a true sweep second hand was the Super, which was introduced a few years after WWII. 

Unfortunately, the movement within the Super didn’t have a movement number. The first movement to have a number was in 1956, called the 290, which powered the Seiko Marvel. The caliber 290 featured auto-wind capability, a first for Seiko, which they called ‘Gyro Marvel’. 

Over the next few years, Seiko continued to innovate, providing more accurate and reliable movements. They even introduced a high-end watch category for the opulent customers called ‘King Seiko’, but still a step below the exclusive ‘Grand Seiko’. 

King Seikos had slightly improved movements compared to regular Seikos, such as the high-end 56XX range, the ‘Vanac’, and the ‘Lordmatic’. On December 25, 1969, Seiko released the first quartz-powered wristwatch. Rather than working with mechanical automatic movement, it is powered by a battery sending power through a quartz crystal to the hands of the watch.

The Seiko Quartz Astron 35SQ was far more accurate than mechanical watches, and most quartz watches are still more accurate today. Seiko doubled down on innovation, and in 1977, they released a solar-powered watch, and in 1988, they started production of the Seiko KINETIC.

The KINETIC had an oscillating weight that would convert movement into electricity and thereby powering the quartz movement. Seiko continued to engineer their mechanical movements throughout history, and in 2005 released the revolutionary ‘Seiko Spring Drive’.

Combining the endless power of an automatic movement and the precision of a quartz movement, the Spring Drive uses a Tri-Synchro regulator to convert mechanical force from the mainspring to electrical energy.

The History of Seiko

Seiko finds its origin in 1881 when Kintaro Hattori set up a small watch-repair shop in central Tokyo. 11 Years later, Mr. Hattori set up the ‘Seikosha’ factory after purchasing a disused factory. Seiko started their business by producing watch clocks, followed by pocket watches, and then in 1913, they released their first wristwatch – the Laurel. 

The Laurel was also the first wristwatch to be made in Japan and was a small, time-only watch featuring a small seconds hand, but it did not feature the Seiko namesake on the dial. The first watch to feature the Seiko name on the dial only went on sale in late 1924. 

Over the last 100 years, Seiko has become one of the giants in the horology world, producing millions of watches each year, renowned for their accuracy, durability, and technological prowess. 

Best Seiko Movements

Seiko Caliber 7S26 (and 7S36)

The caliber 7S26 started production in 1996 and became the workhorse in the Seiko lineup, being updated to the 7S26B in 2006 and 7S26C in 2011. The cal. 7S26 was featured in a myriad of watches, from the Seiko 5 range to the famous Seiko SKX range. 

The accuracy of this entry-level movement was rated at -20 to +40 seconds per day and was equipped with a 41-hour power reserve, beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour. It also featured a day-date function at the 3 o’clock position. 

The 7S26 is equipped with 21 jewels, and the newer cal. 7S36 has 23 jewels. It is speculated that the cal. 7S36 was supposed to replace the 7S26, but the cal. 4R36 ended up replacing the cal. 7S26 and can still be found in modern Seiko 5s. 

The movement can usually go 5 – 25 years before a service is due, but due to inflation and changing times, the service costs might often be more than the movement or the entire watch. 

Seiko Caliber 4R36

As just mentioned, the caliber 4R36 ended up replacing the cal. 7S26 in many of Seiko’s entry-level watches. Introduced in 2019, the movement features in every single modern Seiko 5, barring, of course, the newly introduced GMTs. It also powers other Seiko’s like SARY055, Stargate II SRP510, Monster SRP455 Limited Edition, and Recraft SRPC13K1. 

The movement is equipped with a robust 40-hour power reserve thanks to a 21,600 bph frequency. It features 24 jewels and has an accuracy of +45 / -35 seconds per day. 

The upgrade compared to the cal. 7S26 came with the addition of hand-winding and hacking capabilities, improving any watch’s capabilities dramatically. The 4R36 is still going strong and is also being produced as the cal. NH36 for non-Seiko watches. 

Seiko Caliber 6R15 (and 6R35)

Moving from entry-level sports watches to dress and tool watches, we have the caliber 6R15. Powering models like the Sumo SBDC027 Prospex Diver, Alpinist SARB017, and some Prospex Divers, the caliber had 4 different versions (A, B, C, and D) is the base caliber for the calibers 6R20, 6R21, and 6R24, and 6R27.

Elevating from what we’ve already discussed, the 6R15 has a robust 50-hour power reserve, beats at 21,600 vph, and has an accuracy of -15 / +25 seconds per day. In case it isn’t clear, this movement is a massive step up from the 7S26. It is also cheaper to produce than some other Seiko calibers. 

The upgrade, the 6R35, doubles down on innovation. Not only is the power reserve bumped to 70 hours, but it is thinner than the 6R15. If you find a Seiko powered by the upgrade, be expected to pay a little more than a 6R15-powered Seiko. 

Seiko Caliber 8L35

The caliber 8L35 is based on the Grand Seiko caliber 9S55 and is, apparently, assembled by hand by hand at Shizuku-ishi Watch Studio in Morioka. With an accuracy of -10 / +15 seconds per day, the caliber is pretty accurate even though Seiko suggests you service your watch regularly once every 2-3 years. 

The watch powers various Proxpex divers, Marinemasters, and Brightz Phoenix models and features normal time functionality and a date function at the 3 o’clock position. In 2015, Seiko introduced micro-electromechanical parts in the 8L35 range, and these upgraded calibers were featured in higher-end Prospex divers.

Seiko Caliber 5R65

Found in select Seiko models like the Seiko Marinemaster Golden Tuna, the cal. 5R65 offers an amazing accuracy rating of +/- 1 seconds per day and only +/- 15 seconds per month. This is because the movement features the spring drive technology we mentioned before. 

With a sturdy power reserve of 70 hours and the reassurance that the movement cannot be overwound (thanks to the slipping mechanism), the movement is a favorite amongst enthusiasts. Being able to beat at a frequency of 28,800 vph while maintaining a high power reserve is a tremendous technological feat. 

There is one different version of the cal. 5R65 called the cal. 5R64, which instead of a center seconds hand, has a small seconds hand. 

Seiko Caliber 8R48

The first chronograph caliber in our list features in the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer range. Initially introduced in 2014 within the limited edition Prospex SRQ029, with only 1000 produced. Caliber 8R46 is a tribute to Seiko’s first-ever chronograph watch, released in 1969. 

The cal. 8R48 has a vertical clutch and a column wheel for precise timekeeping, and with an adequate power reserve of 45 hours, it makes for a very usable chronograph. You can also find the cal. 8R48 in other watches as the cal. NE86, since Seiko supply their own movements as third-party technology to other companies. 

Overall, the cal. 8R48 is one of the best modern chronographs, according to enthusiasts, thanks to its remarkable precision and, due to the 34 jewels, exceptional reliability. 

Seiko Caliber NH35 (NH38, and NH36)

As mentioned, the cal. NH35 is essentially the Seiko cal. 4R35, which was introduced somewhere in 2011 – 2012. Chances are that most of the entry-level watches you have seen were or are powered by this movement, as if features in everything from Invicta, Vostok, and, of course, various cost-effective Seikos. 

The hand-windable movement features a hacking function as well as a 41-hour power reserve. Beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour, the caliber has an accuracy of -20 / +40 seconds per day, which is why the movement can be replaced for quite cheap – $40 – $80. 

The cal. NH35 is still a true workhorse, and so are its variations. The NH36 is a day-date version that is based on the Seiko cal. 4R36. The cal. NH38 is a no-frills version of the cal. NH35, as it does not feature a date function and is only a three-hand movement. 

Seiko Caliber Y675 (and Y676)

The cal. Y675 is a rather old movement, introduced in the early 2000s but has long since been discontinued. The cal. Y675 is actually based on the cal. 7S25 and does not feature hacking or manual winding, unlike many of the other Seiko calibers. Seiko did not use this caliber themselves, but you’ll still be able to find it within its sister brands like Pulsar and Lorus.

Beating at a frequency of 21,600 bph and rated with an accuracy of -35 / +45 seconds per day, the movement would never set the world on fire. It was still cheap to produce and provided the beautiful sweeping seconds hand we all love. There was also another version of the movement called the cal. Y676, which added a day-date complication. 

Seiko VK63 (VK64, and VK67)

Produced by Seiko Instruments Inc. (SII), the quartz VK63 forms part of the ‘hybrid mechanical quartz’ or ‘mechaquartz’ range. The regular timekeeping duties are dealt with by the quartz crystal, while a mechanical module will take care of the chronograph function.

Quartz movements will always be incredibly accurate, and the VK63 is no different, reporting only a deviation of +/- 20 seconds per month. The battery (number 394) is rated to last 3 years, but it depends on how often you end up using the chronograph function.

The cal. VK67 is based on the same base as the cal. VK63, with the only difference being that the cal. VK67 has a 12-hour indicator, whereas the cal. VK63 has a 24-hour indicator. The cal. VK64 has exactly the same base; however, its subregisters are located at 3 and 9 o’clock. It also has a date function at 6 o’clock.

Seiko Caliber 4R34 (and NH34)

The functionality of a GMT is perhaps the most usable complication in automatic watches, and to meet the market demands for a cost-effective GMT, Seiko released the Seiko 5 Sports GMT series in June of 2022. 

Internally, these GMTs would be powered by the new cal. 4R34. This new movement boasts a power reserve of 41 hours when fully wound. Accuracy is good for the price you pay, rated at -35 / +45 seconds per day, and thanks to 24 jewels, the movement would only need a service every 2 – 3 years. 

The cal. NH34 is the third-party version of the cal. 4R34, and will feature in other cost-effective GMTs from microbrands like the PHOIBOS Voyager GMT 200M Automatic Diver Watch.

Seiko Caliber 5X53

Recall the solar-powered watches Seiko introduced in 1977. The cal. 5X53 is one of those solar-powered calibers and powers some modern Seikos like the Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time models. 

Being a quartz movement, its accuracy is ridiculous and rated at +/-15 seconds per month. Unlike many other quartz movements, it can set the time automatically using GPS. Even more impressive is the ‘power reserve’ of the battery, holding 6 months’ worth of power. 

The cal. 5X53 also features a host of complications, a pointer day subdial at the 3 o’clock position, a date window at the 16h30 position, as well as a world time function. 

Seiko Caliber V175

Another solar-powered movement, but this time has the added functionality of being a chronograph as well. Powering the Prospex Air Diver’s Chronograph series, the cal. V175 is actually a remarkable movement because you get the functionality of a chronograph with precision and limitless power from a quartz solar caliber. 

With an accuracy rating of +/- 15 seconds per month, the cal. V175 is far more accurate than any automatic caliber mentioned, barring the spring drive. Seiko claims the watch merely needs 2 minutes of sunlight exposure to store enough energy to last a full day and about 5 hours to charge the watch fully. When fully charged, it’d last 6 months.

Seiko Caliber 7A28A

The cal. 7A28A falls in the ‘neo-vintage’ range of watch calibers, not quite old enough to be vintage, but since production started in 1983, it has had some life. The cal. 7A28A also carries a massive title, being the first analog display quartz chronograph ever produced.

The 80s were filled with watches that had LCDs, and so Seiko decided to drive innovation once again by going in the other direction. The cal. 7A28A did not feature plastic parts like other quartz movements, which meant the caliber could be serviced.

With an accuracy rating of +/- 10 seconds per month, small wonder superspy James Bond had a variation of the cal. 7A28A on his wrist in the movie ‘A View to a Kill’. Actor Roger Moore wore the Seiko model SPR007, a white dial stainless steel chronograph.

Seiko Caliber 7C46

Another older quartz caliber known as the cal. &c46, which was introduced in 1986. It featured in some higher-end Seikos like the Marinemaster and some Prospex divers. It also featured in the famous Seiko ‘Tuna’ models. 

It features a day-date complication, and thanks to its higher beating frequency, the caliber, like all other quartz movements, has a high accuracy rating. In fact, it’s rated at only +/- 15 seconds per month. Battery life is rated at 5 years. 

Seiko Caliber VH31

The cal. VH31 was introduced as a means to combine the precision of a quartz movement with the romanticism of a smooth second hand. Well, Seiko increased the quartz oscillation frequency to try and achieve that with the cal. VH31. 

The second hand beats four times per second, making the movement much smoother and similar to the smooth movement of an automatic caliber. 

Because the frequency is quite a bit higher, the battery life is only rated at 2 years, with accuracy being +/- 15 seconds per month.

Conclusion

When looking at the various offerings of the Seiko 5 range, it is clear that Seiko rewards innovation within their company, and it shows with their caliber manufacturing as well. Seiko did produce the first quartz watch but has also provided the world with some amazing automatic movements.

Let us not forget the groundbreaking spring movement, which set the horology world on fire. Seiko will continue to innovate not only with design but with technological prowess as well. 

In the eyes of many consumers, Seiko has always been associated with value. They have consistently offered a variety of watches at different price points and consistently high quality. As one of the few completely integrated manufacturers, Seiko offers a wide range of consumers the opportunity to own a fully in-house watch. 

Prior to 2010, Seiko’s high-end brand Grand Seiko was not available in Japan, and it was not until 2018 that Grand Seiko opened a corporate office in the United States. With that came other corporate changes and rebranding.

Some of Seiko’s most famous models, such as the SKX, Monster, Samurai, and Turtle, were originally part of their standard offerings. Today, descendants of those enthusiast favorites exist in the Seiko 5 and Seiko Prospex brands.

The Purpose of Seiko 5

The original purpose of the Seiko 5 brand was to offer consumers a very affordable mechanical watch with five key features; a self-winding movement, a day-date display at 3 o’clock, water resistance, a crown at 4 o’clock, and a case and bracelet built for durability.

The original Seiko 5 watches all had these features, with models from the recent past resembling pseudo-dive watches, often with 100m of water resistance, to more casual and dress-oriented watches with 30 to 50m of water resistance. 

In 2019, Seiko relaunched the Seiko 5 brand with a line of watches resembling the SKX collection. The SKX007, along with other variants of the beloved dive watch, was a consumer hit for many years. It could easily be found at an affordable price and had proved itself to be extremely reliable.

They were full-fledged dive watches with ISO certification, 200 meters of water resistance, a screw-down crown, and a uni-directional rotating bezel. The new Seiko 5 SRPD line of watches offered much more variety in terms of colors and bracelet options, but they only had 100m of water resistance and a push-pull crown.

While the new SRPD series kept the SKX style, they also marked the discontinuation of the SKX line. While Seiko 5 as a whole is aimed to be more of a mass-market product than the SKX series, many enthusiasts lament the replacement. The Seiko 5 line now offers other models that include smooth-bezel options to the SKX-inspired design, a GMT complication, and field-inspired watches.

With that, Seiko has drifted away from the original 5 characteristics, with the GMT model not having a day function and the field watches having 3 o’clock crowns. They have maintained their affordability and durability, being more than capable as everyday watches for most people, and aimed at new enthusiasts and those wanting a mechanical timepiece for an affordable price. 

The Purpose of Seiko Prospex

Seiko’s history of making modern tool watches starts with its first purpose-built dive watch released in 1965. Since then, Seiko has been an innovator in diving technologies, including developing the first wrist-worn dive computer in 1990.

The Prospex line is Seiko’s professionally oriented watch line. Prospex focuses on dive watches, but there are others, including a variety of field watches, chronographs, and ana-digi models (watches with both analog and digital displays). 

Included in the recent reorganization of Seiko’s model lineup is the Prospex line. Initially reserved for the most rugged sports watches, Seiko has relaunched much-loved models such as the Turtle, Monster, Samurai, and Sumo. Once part of the standard Seiko dive watch offerings, these models were updated and are now part of the Prospex model line. 

With that came a price increase, but the inclusion of sapphire crystals, ceramic bezels, and upgraded dials made the price increase worthwhile. Even though these models are more expensive, they are still affordable, often found for under $750.

Seiko has created space within the Prospex line for high-end watches. Ranging from mechanical chronograph movements to high-end Spring-Drive divers and GMTs that share movements with Grand Seiko, these watches have retail prices over $3000. The Prospex line aims to make some of the best sports timepieces available at various prices. 

Seiko 5 or Prospex?

Budget

Since forum readings and many watch enthusiasts have all pointed towards Seiko as the best value for money, your budget is the first thing to consider. While prices under $1,000 are considered entry-level in the broader watch-collecting hobby, the difference between $300 and $600 can be staggering.

Twice the money does not buy twice the watch (unless you are buying two pieces). Other factors should be taken into account when determining your next watch-buying goal, but having firm financial guidelines will be extremely helpful. 

Build Quality

While doubling the price does not necessarily increase the quality, a price increase does improve many of the watch’s aspects. Comparing the SRPD51 to the SRPE05, even though they both have the same movement, the crystal and bezel of the SRPE05 are upgraded compared to the SRPD51 (sapphire versus mineral for the crystal, ceramic versus aluminum for the bezel). 

The SRPE05 is also rated to 200m of water resistance compared to the SRPD51’s 100m, making the SRPE05 a true dive watch. The 100m rating and lack of a screw-down crown on the SRPD51 make it only suitable for casual water usage (surface swimming, maybe some shallow diving).

If these upgrades are considered worthwhile, it may be worth saving a little longer to get the SRPE05 from the Prospex line. If style is the top concern, the Seiko 5 will serve well. Aside from the more easily discernible aspects, there will be many differences in quality between the Seiko 5 line and the Prospex line.

The Prospex line will have a range of quality case finishing and bracelets, from slightly better than the Seiko 5 line to competing with higher-end luxury brands. Comparing the SPB155 (Prospex) to the SRPG29 (Seiko 5), the case finishing and bracelet quality of the SPB155 is a notable upgrade over the SRPG29. The straps and buckles on the Prospex models will also be an improvement over the Seiko 5 models.

Movements

As mentioned earlier, the movement quality in the Prospex range can vary significantly compared to Seiko 5. Entry-level Prospex can have the same movements as the Seiko 5 range. In contrast, mid-tier and high-end Prospex models can have more well-regulated movements and finish than what is available in Seiko 5 models. The Prospex range also includes a variety of quartz models, including time and date divers, ana-digi models, and solar-powered chronographs. 

Availability

Finally, the Seiko 5 models are more widely available. In the United States, many Seiko 5 models can be found in shopping malls and department stores in almost every town and city. Entry-level Prospex models will likely be available in many moderate to large-size markets, but finding a store with higher-end Prospex models will be more difficult.

If buying in person is a must, this can be problematic. Fortunately, internet access and a global economy have made access to even the most hard-to-come-by models possible. The most important aspect of purchasing a watch is whether or not it resonates with the end user. From there, factors such as use case, desired traits, and budget can filter and help inform the final decision. 

Seiko 5 and Prospex Collections

Seiko 5 SRPD

The SRPD lineup consists of watches most closely resembling the original SKX line. Inside all of them is the caliber 4R36, which hacks, hand-winds, and offers 41 hours of power reserve. They all have 10 bar of water resistance (equivalent to 100 meters of static pressure), a unidirectional bezel, mineral crystal, and a display case back. These watches are 42.5mm wide, 13.4mm thick, have 22mm lugs, and are 46mm lug to lug.

A model such as the SRPD55 will be the most conservative offering, with a conventional black dial with silver outlined indices and hands with white lume. The SRPD55 comes on a 3-link style bracelet instead of a more ornate 5-link style seen on the original SKX line. It is one of the most versatile watches in this collection but could be viewed as stale compared to other models. The SRPD55 retails for $295.

The SRPD71 is more stylized than the SRPD55, with a blue dial and bezel, white chapter ring, and vintage-inspired tan lume on the indices and hands. This model is under the “SKX Suits Style” collection, suggesting that this watch is intended to be more stylish than utilitarian with the colored dial elements and Milanese strap. The SRPD71 commands a slight premium at $350 retail.

One of the more significant departures from the original SKX line is the SRPD81. With a completely black case, dial, and bezel, with blue lume and bezel markings, this model takes influence from enthusiasts that modified their SKX watches. Aftermarket suppliers would create parts that allowed collectors to alter their timepieces and make them their own.

With colored lume, black cases, and different strap offerings, models such as the SRPD81 enable consumers to have these more unique offerings direct from the original manufacturer. Even though it does not come on a metal bracelet, the other aesthetic changes increase the retail price to $335.

Seiko 5 SRPG Collection

The Seiko 5 SRPG collection consists of the brand’s field watch offerings. A long-standing style in the Seiko 5 collection, even before the brand revamp, the biggest departure is the movement of the crown position. The current Seiko 5 SRPG watches have their crowns at 3 o’clock instead of 4 o’clock, which is typical for Seiko 5. 

The SRPG watches still maintain other hallmarks of the Seiko 5 collection with the day-date feature, water resistance, mechanical movement, and durable case design. These watches have the same 4R36 movement, 10 bar water resistance rating, mineral crystal, and display case back as the SRPD series. The SRPG Field watches measure 39.4mm wide, 13.2mm thick, have 20mm lugs, and measure 48.1mm lug to lug. 

The SRPG29 comes with a blue dial, silver indices and hands with white lume, and a 3-link style metal bracelet. The dial layout is typical for a field watch, with large numerals to facilitate reading the time. There is a 24-hour inner track on the dial, allowing for easier reading of 24-hour time. The SRPG29 retails for $275.

Keeping the same dial layout and case as the SRPG29, the SRPG31 comes with a blue-grey textured and a matching colored textile strap. The color is more muted than the SRPG29, making the watch better suited for casual situations, especially with the textile strap. The SRPG31 retails for $275.

The SRPG41 is further stylized, adding a textured dial that also mimics a faded look, with a lighter dial color in the center and progressing to a darker color towards the outer edges. The press photos make this look more pronounced.

In real life, this color differentiation varies depending on lighting, ranging from utterly dark grey to a more pronounced brown-to-black fade. The lume is also vintage-inspired with a light tan coloration, and the case is covered with a black hard coating. Coming on a leather strap, this is another more style-oriented model than a function-focused one. The SRPG41 retails for $315.

Seiko 5 Sports GMT Collection

Released in 2022, the SSK series launched to a world that was excited to travel. These watches use the same case design as the SKX, measuring 42.5mm wide, 13.6mm thick, 22mm wide bracelets, 46mm lug-to-lug, mineral crystals, and are rated to 10 bar of water resistance. These watches come on a 5-link style bracelet, closer in style to the original bracelets found on the SKX. 

The launch of this watch also unveiled the new 4R34 movement, which has an adjustable 24-hour hand, allowing for the tracking of multiple time zones, in addition to the rotating 24-hour bezel. This combination allowed for a very affordable dual-time watch from a notable brand, as many Swiss brands are easily twice as expensive for a dual-time zone timepiece. 

The SSK series comes in three dial colors, black (SSK001), blue (SSK003), and orange (SSK005). They each have two-toned bezels, with the blue being the most pronounced and the orange and black being more subtle, and they vary depending on the lighting.

These watches also depart from the Seiko 5 tradition, removing the day complication at 3 o’clock but maintaining the date. They also now have a date magnifier, which allows for easier reading of the date.  Regardless of color variant, each of these watches retails for $475. 

Seiko Prospex Alpinist

The Seiko Alpinist has long been an enthusiast favorite. It offers a more rugged alternative to conventional time and date watches, such as the SARB033. The inner rotating bezel controlled by the crown at 4 o’clock is meant to be used as a manual compass but can also be utilized to time events, similar to a dive bezel.

The iconic model for the Alpinist line is the variant with a green dial alongside gold indices and hands. When Seiko relaunched the Alpinist as part of the Prospex line, it was released as the SPB121. The SPB121 measures 39.5mm wide, 13.2mm thick, and 46.4mm lug-to-lug. It has a 20mm wide strap and contains the 6R35 movement that has a 70-hour power reserve, date function, hacks, and hand winds.

The case has 20 bar of water resistance, facilitated by a screw-down crown. The front crystal is sapphire, and the clasp is a deployant style instead of a pin and buckle, as seen on the Seiko 5 models. The SPB121 retails for $725. Should a green dial not do the trick, other dial, strap, and bracelet options are available. 

Should the general style of the Seiko Prospex Alpinist be appealing, but the second crown of the SPB121 is off-putting, the SPB243 should be considered. Slightly smaller at 38mm wide, 12.9mm thick, 19mm lugs, and 46.2mm lug-to-lug, these dimensions allow the watch to be more svelte on the wrist. The SPB243 uses the same 6R35 movement and has 20 bar of water resistance with a screw-down crown. 

The dark sunburst dial covered by a sapphire crystal will be more flexible than the green dial with various attire, and the lack of the date magnifier will be a plus for many buyers. To appeal to the vintage origins of the original Alpinist from 1959, the lume is done in a faux-patina color. The SPB243 retails for $750. Again, other dial, strap, and bracelet options are available. 

To display the higher end of the Seiko Prospex range, there is the SJE085. In 2021, Seiko launched a limited edition recreation of the original 1959 Alpinist. They took inspiration from the original, incorporating elements from the original dial design and the jagged stitching on the bund-style strap.

The SJE085 measures 36.6mm wide and 11.1mm thick, with 18mm lugs, and 43.8mm lug-to-lug. The movement inside is Seiko’s 6L35, which has a higher accuracy rating than the 6R34 and is intended to be a more high-end movement, sitting below those from Grand Seiko. 

The SJE085 has 10 bar of water resistance, less than other Prospex models, but is more than enough for daily wear. The case is also more finely finished, all in high polish, which will make it easy to wear with a suit with a change of strap. It was a limited edition of 1,959 pieces, making availability difficult. The original retail was $2,900, but used prices have settled south of that mark. There are also deals to be had on models still in inventory.

Seiko Prospex Dive Watches

In the Prospex line, we see modern versions of many of Seiko’s mainstay models, such as the Samurai, Sumo, and Turtle. Seiko could rely on the popularity of those models alone, but in 2022, they released the Prospex Diver Re-Interpretation. 

Offered in a variety of colors, strap, and bracelet options, this watch does combine several elements from various favorite Seiko dive watch models and molds them into a new and unique design that stands on its own. Measuring 41mm wide, 12.3mm thick, 20mm lugs, and 46.9mm lug to lug, it is one of the more wearable Seiko divers and is the thinnest one they’ve ever made.

The watch is rated at 200 meters of water resistance and is an ISO-certified diver. Inside is the Seiko 6R35 movement. The Seiko Prospex SPB317 featured here has a black dial and black rubber strap. The retail price is $900, and slightly more for models on a bracelet.

Another modern re-interpretation is the SPB301 Save The Ocean special edition. This case shape has been nicknamed Captain Willard as this watch resembles the watch famously seen in the movie Apocalypse Now. The SPB301 measures 42.7mm wide, 13mm thick, 46.6mm lug-to-lug, and has 20mm lugs.

Inside is the 6R35, and the SPB301 is ISO-Certified, rated at 200 meters of water resistance. This version stands out with its grained white dial, reminiscent of the Grand Seiko White Birch dial, and textured blue bezel. The SPB301 retails for $1,300. 

Towards the top of the Seiko Prospex dive watch range is the impressive SNR029. Representing the Spring Drive equipped models from the Prospex range, the SNR029 features a titanium case and bracelet with Seiko’s proprietary “super-hard” coating to protect from scratches.

Equally impressive are the dimensions, as the case measures 44.8mm wide, 14.7mm thick, and 50.9mm lug-to-lug. The relatively short lug-to-lug measurement will make it wearable for most people. The SNR029 is still a very large watch. 

The SNR029 is rated at 300m of water resistance and is ISO-certified for saturation diving, giving the SNR029 improved capabilities over the standard Prospex Divers. Inside is the Seiko 5R65 Spring Drive movement, rated at +/-1 second per day, and offers a 72-hour power reserve that can be tracked via the indicator on the dial. It also has a very cool ratcheting clasp system to allow for minor adjustments and to fit the watch over a wetsuit. The SNR029 retails at $6,000 and is among the best of what Seiko has to offer.

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Watches

Drawing on Seiko’s history with timing sporting events, the Speedtimer collection references their first watch with their Caliber 6139, the world’s first automatic chronograph with a column-wheel and vertical clutch. 

Representing the line of mechanical Speedtimers, the SRQ037 was released in 2021 as part of Seiko’s unveiling of the Prospex Speedtimer collection. Inside is the 8R46 automatic caliber, a 30-minute chronograph with a column wheel and vertical clutch. The 8R46 has a rated accuracy of +25/-15 sec per day and a 45-hour power reserve.

The mechanical Speedtimers measure 15.1mm thick, 42.5mm wide, 50mm lug-to-lug, and 20mm lugs, and have a water resistance rating of 10 bar. The SRQ037 specifically comes with a black dial, tan faux-vintage colored lume, and a metal bracelet. The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ037 retails for $3,000 

Offering a more accessible approach to the chronograph, the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph collection has quickly become an enthusiast favorite. Focusing on the SSC813, the dial is white with black subdials and blackened hands and indices.

The Speedtimer Solar Chronographs use the solar-powered V192 quartz movement, allowing for an accuracy rating of +/-15 seconds a month. The chronograph measures up to 60 minutes and includes a 24-hour indicator for the displayed time at 3 o’clock.

The case measures 13mm thick, 39mm wide, 45.5mm lug-to-lug, has 20mm lugs, and is rated to 10 bar of water resistance. The size, finishing, and the more affordable retail price of $675 have made it a fast favorite in the broader Seiko Prospex collection. 

Should the SSC813 be too small, there are the larger Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronographs. Compared to the SSC913, the case holds the same movement and has the same 10 bar of water resistance but measures 13mm thick, 41.4mm wide, 45.9mm lug-to-lug, and has 21mm lugs.

The SSC913 has a blue dial with red accents for the running seconds, chronograph seconds hands, and part of the tachymeter bezel. The slight increase in size will be preferable for those who have grown accustomed to larger watches, but the still restrained 45.9mm lug-to-lug allows it to be worn and a wide variety of wrists.

There is a slight price increase to $700, but the choice between the different solar-powered Speedtimers should be based on size and color preference. 

Spoiled for Choice

Seiko has cultivated its following in enthusiast circles based on its track record of building dependable watches. When looking for a sporty watch, buyers have many options in the Seiko 5 and Prospex collections.

Instead of one being overwhelmingly better than the other, it is more a matter of style preference, desired features, and overall budget. Given the number of options available between the Seiko 5 and Prospex collections, there should be something for almost every buyer. 

The Seiko Sumo and Turtle are two of the storied Japanese brand’s most popular dive watches.  They’re both 200-meter divers within Seiko’s Prospex line that come with oversized cases and bulletproof movements.

Even among the throngs of Rolex Submariner acolytes, the Sumo and the Turtle gain much respect for their toughness and tool-watch street cred. Though both watches differ slightly in appearance, they offer similar value for money. 

Nevertheless, the two have enough differences to merit a comparison for those trying to choose between them (why not get both?). We’ve done the research, so you don’t have to. Keep reading to see the similarities and differences between the Seiko Sumo and Seiko Turtle.

After all, when it comes to buying the right watch, knowledge is power. Plus, you might just learn a thing or two!

About the Seiko Sumo

The Seiko Sumo was introduced in 2007 as an ISO-rated dive watch for the masses. The Seiko Sumo is a serious dive watch for serious divers. The Sumo’s development resulted from saturation divers complaining that their timepieces would continually become damaged at great depths because they simply didn’t have the robust case construction to handle the immense pressure. 

Seiko made developing this watch a serious mission, and in 2007, the watch was released to the public. Since that release, it has become one of the most popular dive watches in the world and one that most people can afford! Moreover, it’s almost instantly recognizable to anyone who’s a fan of dive watches.

About the Seiko Turtle

The “Turtle”, as the Seiko Prospex has come to be called by its fans, is quite a bit older than the Sumo. The original iteration of this watch was launched in 1976 (as was I, but that’s neither here nor there). When the watch was first released, the Turtle was a popular model.

However, as the legendary Seiko SKX models began to dominate the affordable diver market, Seiko ceased production of the Turtle for several years. But in 2016 (due in part to demand from the marketplace), collectors and divers were thrilled to hear that the Turtle would be making a return. Some said it was even more exciting than the return of the McRib!

Seiko Sumo Vs. Seiko Turtle: A Clash Between Two Dive Watch Titans

To offer the most thorough comparison of these two rugged divers, we’ve broken them down to some of their most important characteristics. We’ve compared and contrasted so that you get a good idea of what each watch offers and what it doesn’t.

While we understand that choosing a timepiece often comes down to the intangibles, it still helps to know what each watch brings to the table. Read through the following analysis, and you should clearly see which of these two watches is the right pick for your needs.

Case

Case size and shape are typically the first things you’ll notice about any watch. That being said, the Seiko Sumo and the Seiko Turtle have two of the most recognizable cases in the dive watch world. The Turtle may be more iconic due to its very original case design, which does, in fact, resemble a turtle shell.

However, it’s slightly less tall than the Sumo. Both watches are intentionally chunky in every direction, and if you disrespect either, they just may bodyslam you. Both pieces also offer a case size of 45mm, though the shapes differ slightly.

The Turtle has a more rounded and fluid design, while the Sumo’s angular lugs give it a more industrial tool watch look. Another similarity between the two watches is the unidirectional rotating dive bezel. Both have aluminum bezel inserts and offer a pleasing click when rotating the bezel.

Water Resistance

This is another area where the Turtle and the Sumo are equally robust. With solid screw-down crowns and case backs, each watch offers a solid water resistance of 200 meters. Moreover, you’re likely to get even more performance out of each piece than the stated 200 meters, though you’ll probably never have to test that theory yourself. Both watches have the crown around 4 o’clock, a welcome change for many divers from the standard 3 o’clock on most pieces.

Complications

When it comes to complications, the Sumo is available with a day date function, while the Turtle is only available with a date window. While this is likely not a deal breaker for anyone whose main concern is dive readiness, it’s still a consideration for some. Other than that, both watches are standard three-hand divers without many other bells and whistles. 

Their toughness and durability are where they really earn their stripes. If you’re looking for a more complicated dive watch with extras like a helium escape valve or alarm function, you’ll probably want to look elsewhere. These two watches are no-nonsense workhorses that reflect their comfortable price points.

Hands

The handsets on both watches have quite different looks and feel. The Sumo has basic tapered hour and minute hands, while the stick second hand has a small marker toward the end. On the other hand, the Turtle has a plain stick hand seconds hand, a plunger hour hand, and a highly visible arrow hand for the minutes. Both handsets have a sporty feel and are easy to read, but some may find the Turtle’s hands a bit more interesting. 

Movement

The Seiko Sumo houses the impressive Seiko 6R35 automatic movement, which boasts a semi-ridiculous power reserve of 70 hours. While the Sumo’s movement is quite a feat of engineering, the Turtle is no slouch itself. It uses another one of Seiko’s highly accurate and dependable automatic movements, the 4R36. 

It has the same beat rate as the Sumo’s movement and only has a slightly shorter power reserve. What the 4R36 does have over the 6R35 is a day date function. If this is important to you, then you’ll probably want to opt for the versatile Turtle of the simpler and utilitarian Sumo. 

Crystal

As with most standard Seiko divers, the Seiko Sumo and Seiko Turtle come with the brand’s proprietary Hardlex scratch-resistant crystal. Hardlex is made using a mixture of silicon and barium that is heated and combined before it cools and hardens.

According to Seiko, Hardlex is more scratch resistant than the standard mineral glass on most other affordable watches. While many watch collectors may prefer sapphire glass to Hardlex crystal, it’s still a decent step up from the standard mineral glass.

Strap/Bracelet

Both the Turtle and the Sumo come with standard Seiko 316L stainless steel bracelets. While these bracelets are fine for diving, many skilled divers prefer a rubber or nato strap. This is where the Turtle gains another slight advantage.

It has a rubber strap option available at purchase, which the Sumo does not. That said, you can always purchase a rubber strap afterwards for your Sumo, but doing so will be an additional cost and time requirement.

Price & Availability

Both the Seiko Sumo and Seiko Turtle are readily available online and in many stores as well. However, you can expect to pay quite different prices for each. The current models of the Seiko Turtle can be found for around $400.

The Sumo, on the other hand, will cost you a bit more. Most retailers sell the Seiko Sumo for about $700, making it more of an investment than the Turtle. These are prices for new watches. However, on the secondary market, you’re likely to find both at an even lower price, though they will be “previously loved”.

If you don’t mind getting a slightly used version of these watches, then you can probably get a great deal online.

Conclusion

Ultimately, which watch you choose will come down to personal preference. Some will prefer the aesthetics of one model over the other, while legibility and useability will be the determining factors for others. 

The Seiko Turtle and the Seiko Sumo both offer the same basic value proposition. They’re incredibly durable dive watches that won’t have you worried if you get them scratched or beaten up. While not typically mentioned in many reviews of the Turtle and the Sumo, they also make for great-looking daily beaters, even if you never set foot in the water.

Dive watches are the most popular style for most men, so you can’t go wrong with either of these on your wrist in any environment, be it wet or dry. Before choosing between these two equally impressive watches, the most important thing to remember is to be fully informed.

Know what each timepiece offers and doesn’t, and use that knowledge to make a fully informed decision. If you do that, then you’re probably not going to be disappointed in your choice, no matter which route you take.

Whenever someone mentions Seiko, one thing immediately comes to mind: affordable dive watches. Oftentimes, affordability equates to cheapness. In the case of Seiko, they’ve mastered quality and reliable watches without requiring someone to drop their life savings.

If you know anything about the Japanese watch brand, it’s that they have quite the catalog of references, especially when it comes to their divers. Two of the models in particular, the Sumo and the Samurai, are iconic in their own ways, and I’m excited to take a deeper dive into them. I really didn’t mean to make a diving pun there…ok, perhaps I did just a little bit.

At a first glance, the average viewer may think they are a similar watch. Of course, there are similarities between the two, but us watch nerds know better. Let’s discuss each piece’s unique qualities and see if one may just end up on your wrist.

About the Seiko Sumo

Like many Seiko models, the Sumo isn’t limited to one reference number or generation. First introduced in 2007, the original was housed under the reference number SBDC001 and had a black dial with bold, white coloring throughout the lume plots, hands, and numerals on the bezel.

What’s interesting about the Sumo was that it was the first Seiko Diver equipped with the in-house 6R35 automatic movement. Since the release of the original watch, the company has released various generations and colors over the years. 

In 2022, they released the latest versions of the Sumo: a gray dial/black bezel (ref. #SPB323) and a blue dial/blue bezel (ref. #SPB321), both a part of the Prospex line. The Prospex catalog contains a series of various land, sea, and sky sport and adventure models.

Although it’s a relatively large watch at 45mm in diameter, 12.9mm thick, and 52mm lug to lug, the Sumo has great proportions and looks great on the wrist. Visually, it’s stunning, with the dial colors blending from light to dark as you move from the center to the outside. 

A few other highlights to note:

• A beautiful mix of polished and brushed parts gives it the tool watch feel with a flash of elegance.
• The bezel insert is now ceramic allowing it to be far more scratch resistant than aluminum or other materials.
• Being a diving watch, we must mention the water resistance of 200 meters and a screw-down crown.
• The movement is the 6R35 and beats at 3Hz with a 70-hour power reserve. Seiko promises an accuracy of +25/-15 seconds per day.
• The bracelet includes a redesigned folding clasp and a wetsuit extension. Hopefully, you all have your SCUBA certification.

According to Seiko’s website, the current retail price is ~$1,200. The comfortability is certainly there, but I would still suggest trying one on before making the purchase due to its larger size.

About the Seiko Samurai

Can you tell that we love to give Seiko watches their own nicknames? The Tuna, Turtle, Monster, Sumo, the list goes on forever. This particular watch, the Samurai, gets its name from the hour and seconds hands resembling a sword. First released in 2004, this watch was actually discontinued until it was brought back in 2017.

Also housed under the Prospex line, the one we’re taking a closer look at is the newest model ref. #SRPB49. The stainless steel case is 43.8mm in diameter, 13.5mm thick, and 48mm lug to lug. The deep blue dial with the checkered look gives it that bit of extra pop. 

I’m a sucker for multi-colored bezels, and this watch offers a mix of blue between the 3 and 12 and gray between the 12 and 3. Depending on the light on the timepiece, the bezel colors can adjust from dark to light.

A cool little tidbit is that when the hour and minute hands cross each other, they appear like a sword. This is a big reason why the watch is nicknamed the Samurai. I know that effect only happens briefly every hour, but I can’t help but smile at the thought of that detail. Here’s what else you need to know:

• Unlike many newer watches, the Samurai is made with a Hardlex crystal rather than the standard sapphire crystal. The wearer still gets that scratch-resistant durability while keeping the watch’s price down.
• The movement is the self-winding caliber 4R35, which beats at 21,600 vph and has 41 hours of power reserve. The approximate accuracy is -35/+45 seconds per day.
• Seiko is synonymous with great lume, the case here being LumiBrite. Since this watch is ISO-certified, the lume is incredible. ISO is a third-party certification with many factors coming into play. One requirement is that the piece is visible up to 25 cm away in total darkness. It’ll surely shine bright.
• The bezel is unidirectional and has 120 clicks.

It was tough to nail down an exact retail price but all research concluded that this watch can be found in the sub $500 range. When you’re talking about a Seiko automatic diver, that’s one heck of a deal.

Seiko Sumo vs. Seiko Samurai: A Clash Between Two Dive Watch Titans

A question as old as time itself: which one do I buy? Well, why don’t you just buy both? If only it were that simple, right? You may have clicked on this article because you’re in the market for a Seiko diver, perhaps one of these in particular, and you can buy only one.

You’re lucky because I will lay out which one is better and which you should definitely buy! Can you feel the sarcasm yet? If you haven’t figured it out by now, watches are entirely subjective. Sure, there are watches with objectively better specifications, but in general, how we love a watch is down to each individual.

It’s one of the reasons why collecting many or owning one watches is so awesome. Still, we have to compare them, right? To keep them somewhat similar, I’ll mostly be talking about the Sumo blue version (ref. #SPB321) and the Samurai blue version (ref. #SRPB49), even though there are many color variations for each. The weigh-ins are done, and the bell has rung, so let’s go!

Appearance

I don’t know about you, but when I think about a dive watch, I think about a tool. While I consider both pieces capable tool watches, the Sumo has a bit more flashiness due to the mix of polished and brushed parts throughout the case.

The Sumo also has brighter colors, including that stunning dial and the shiny ceramic bezel. Having a more subdued look, the Samurai appears more under the radar and will likely show scratching less due to the mostly brushed case. 

The crown on the Sumo gives that classic Seiko feel with the offset 4 o’clock position, while the Samurai feels more rugged with the non-smooth crown at the more traditional 9 o’clock position. Both have date wheels, and the dials are so well-proportioned that you shouldn’t have trouble reading the time quickly on either piece. The Sumo has circular indices, while the Samurai has baton indices.

Wearability

When I hear people talk about watches, everyone immediately focuses on looks, but to me, comfort may be the most critical factor as to whether or not I like a piece. Both the Sumo and the Samurai are large timepieces, relatively speaking.

While the Sumo has a longer lug to lug by about 4mm, the curved down characteristics of the lugs will hug the wrist nicely, which should provide extra comfort. It’s also slightly thinner than the Samurai, making it feel less bulky and slide under sleeves. While the Samurai doesn’t offer the same curved lugs as the Sumo, the shorter lug-to-lug will also wear comfortably. 

When it comes to thickness, both of the watches are just about the same. I will add that the Samurai has a side profile that is interrupted by a change in design. This will make it appear thinner than it actually is, unlike other watches with more straight, “slab-like” profiles. Both include drilled lugs making strap changes easier if the bracelet look isn’t your style.

Performance

Seiko makes reliable, relatively accurate, and easy-to-work-on movements. You’ll get no argument from me there. The 6R35 movement inside the Sumo has a better accuracy (+25/-15 seconds/day) and a longer power reserve than the Samurai at 70 hours.

All that being said, that’s the way it should be when you’re paying around double the price for a watch. The 41-hour power reserve of the Samurai is nothing to hang your head about, and people seem to have very little issues with the reliable 4R35 movement. 

You get plenty of water resistance on both the Sumo and the Samurai at 200 meters as well as screw-down crowns. I can’t sit here and pretend like I’m an engineer, but I know that there are other technical differences between the two movements.

The ones mentioned above are the two main ones you’ll notice in everyday use. And the lume! Seiko may just be the best at it, and these will shine bright for a long time.

Can You Get Them?

You may be wondering, “that’s an odd question.” If both of these watches are still in production, then why wouldn’t I be able to get them? Oftentimes in the watch world, you’ll find some pieces difficult to obtain, even if the company still produces them. This is mostly caused by two main reasons: short supply and too much demand. 

Luckily, in the case of the Sumo and the Samurai, all indications point to these being readily available, except for a special or limited edition piece. The Sumo retails for ~$1,200, while the Samurai can be found for under $500. Sometimes, especially when it comes to Seiko, you’ll have to do a bit of digging and research to find them.

Seiko’s website authorized dealers, such as Exquisite Timepieces, and your local authorized dealers, are all good places to go. The answer to which one you should buy is easy: purchase the one you like more. I know all too well that that’s easier said than done. Seiko produces incredible watches, so making the wrong decision will be tough.

I like to focus on the look and feel of a timepiece before I start looking at technical specs and cost. A watch can have the greatest movement, accurate to +1/-1 seconds per year, and cost $150,000. But if I don’t want to look at it every day, then I don’t want it. In this scenario, it’s a good thing we have two wrists.