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Best seiko chronograph solar watches

The Japanese giant famous for its affordable dive and sports models actually have a rich history of chronographs. Also known for its solar innovations, Seiko has become the number one place for beginner and seasoned collectors alike, providing some of the best entry-level timepieces to some of the most unique.

The combination of a chronograph and the technological prowess of a solar-powered watch significantly increases the utility of the complication. Regular mechanical watches do lose power faster when the chronograph is running, but this won’t be an issue seeing as your watch is technically being powered by nuclear fusion; pretty cool, huh? 

About Seiko Solar Chronograph Watches

As mentioned, a Solar Chronograph is a genius combination of practicality with power-efficient technology. It’s not quite clear which model was the first Seiko Solar Chronograph, but we can look at a few contemporary or popular models to get you up to date. 

The most well-known Seiko Solar Chronographs are all within the Prospex Speedtimer line, based on the automatic Speedtimer series from the 1960s-70s. In the range, you’ll find various iterations of the same format, all with Seiko’s solar Caliber V192, a 60-minute chronograph that also allows you to see the power reserve with the push of a button. 

For those that prefer something a bit dressier, there is also the ref. SBPY115, which was introduced in the early 2020s and features a vintage chronograph look with the addition of a rather handy alarm function. 

There are other watches in the Seiko lineup that are not strictly chronographs alone but watches that feature a chronograph function as well. The Astron GPS range is a crowd favorite, and there are even a few divers that fit the bill, like the ref. SSC741P1. 

The most well-known is probably the Arnie, ref. SNJ033P1, a large and no-nonsense tool watch. The original Arnie was worn by Arnold Schwarzenegger in the 1987 movie Predator.  

History of Seiko Solar Chronograph Watches

In the late 60s, the watch industry was experiencing a technological evolution with the influx of new movements, case materials, and finishing methods. By the 70s, the quartz crisis had taken its hold on the industry with cheaply produced but highly-accurate wristwatches.  

Solar-powered watches are actually a wee bit older than pure quartz watches. Experiments were run in the 60s to try to use solar energy as a power source, and the first solar-powered wristwatch was finally released to the market in 1972 with the Synchronar 2100. 

The first solar-powered Seiko was introduced in 1977 using the Caliber 4826. Rather brilliantly, it used 12 smaller solar cells located on the chapter ring of the dial. It’s unclear which model was the first Seiko Solar Chronograph. 

The 15 Best Seiko Solar Chronograph Watches

1. Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC813

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC813

As mentioned, the current Speedtimer line is based on the Speedtimer series from the 1960s-70s. The first of the namesake was introduced in 1969 and featured the automatic caliber 6139, an innovative chronograph movement and the first to feature a column wheel and vertical clutch. 

This ref. SSC813 is inspired by the original 6139 Speedtimer with a more contemporary style and wearing dimensions. Fitting rather comfortably on most wrists, the watch measures 39mm in diameter and 45.5mm lug-to-lug, the case features fine circular brushing and two pump-style pushers, providing a bit of vintage flair.

Mounted on a polished three-link bracelet with a  three-fold clasp. Moving to the dial, you’ll find a ‘panda-style’ configuration, a blasted matte white dial with darker subsidiary registers at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. These subregisters are actually transparent and function as solar panels as well. The bezel is IP-coated in a glossy black finish and features a tachymeter scale, as you’ll find with most other chronographs. 

Within this affordable alternative to the Daytona, you have the caliber V192, a solar movement with an accuracy rating of +- 15 seconds per month, and features a power reserve and date complication. A great offering from Seiko for those that want to scratch the itch of having a stylish yet practical chrono for under $1000. 

2. Seiko Recraft Solar Chronograph SSC667

Seiko Recraft Solar Chronograph SSC667

The Recraft series is a series that was introduced to exhibit its heritage of innovation and styling of the past. The range allows the designers to let their hair down and use interesting colors and designs. The ref. SSC667 is an extremely affordable chrono coming in at under $500. 

Measuring a reasonable 43.5mm in diameter and 12.5mm in thickness, the thin profile is slightly slimmer than automatic movements thanks to the solar caliber V175 within. The tonneau-style steel case features contrasting finishing methods along the polished bezel and brushed case. 

The sun-brushed blue dial features the same photovoltaic cells within the subregisters and creates a somewhat iridescent hue under certain lights. Dimension is added to the dial through the raise rehaut on which a tachymeter scale is printed. This bundle of utility is mounted on a sporty NATO strap, producing a sporty feel that matches the overarching design of the timepiece. 

3. Seiko Astron GPS Solar SSH121

Seiko Astron GPS Solar SSH121

The modern Seiko Astron line was introduced in 2012 as ‘the Most Advanced Ever’, combining just about every complication Seiko could cram into a case. The massive Astron GPS Solar collection uses GPS technology, and with a simple push of a button, the wearer has the ability to change their time zone. 

The ref. SSH121, or “5-X TITANIUM DUAL TIME”, is a visually striking watch combining sleek lines, a super-hard black-coated titanium case, and a blue ceramic world time bezel. On the side of the 43.1mm case, you’ll find rectangular pushers, which also assist in the streamlined design. 

Within the 100m water-resistant case sits the caliber 5X53. This groundbreaking solar caliber features a host of complications; GPS time and time zone adjustment, power save function, date calendar, AM/PM indicator, and, of course, a chronograph. 

4. Seiko Excelsior Solar Chronograph SSC139

Seiko Excelsior Solar Chronograph SSC139

Ever seen a watch that looks like a symbiote and an android at the same time? Well, the SSC139 Excelsior has a unique design that many have described as ‘organic’, perhaps the perfect watch for vegans. It all starts with the bracelet, which has a two-tone design of silver and a slightly darker metal in a somewhat reptilian pattern.

It doesn’t have a name per se, but it grabs your attention. 

This design language continues along the case with four silver-finished crescents along each corner of the bezel. Rounded crown guards separate the crown from the pump pushers, also finished in a polished manner, once again contributing to the sleek and futuristic look. 

The large black dial is adorned with polished hour markers and hands while also featuring the three subregisters displaying an alarm, a seconds counter, and the 60-minute chronograph timer. Within the 100m waterproof case sits the caliber V172 movement with a proposed power reserve of 6 months. 

A watch that certainly isn’t for everyone, and at 43mm, it isn’t exactly petite, but various of Seiko’s most influential watches weren’t exactly subtle. Perhaps the perfect antithesis if you already own a Seiko Arnie. 

5. Seiko World Time Solar Chronograph SSG015

Seiko World Time Solar Chronograph SSG015

What about something that combines the vintage look of a pilot’s watch with a subtle hint of dressy aesthetics? The 45mm Seiko ref. SSG015 seems to fit the bill perfectly! The black ion-finished stainless steel case houses the caliber 8B92, which has a unique function – radio sync. It receives a radio signal to keep your time as accurate as it can be. 

The black dial is where the business end of this watch is found. The rehaut features several important cities from around the globe, as you will see on most world timers. Large white Breguet numerals and tapered hands are all filled with plenty of LumiBrite, creating a rather legible look for such a busy dial. 

The case is mounted on a leather strap which fits the vintage overarching idea. A peculiar configuration but one that was a crowd favorite. Unfortunately, the reference has been discontinued, but you’ll still be able to find a few if you’re really determined. 

6. Seiko Prospex “Sumo” Solar Chronograph SSC795

Seiko Prospex “Sumo” Solar Chronograph SSC795

From dressier timepieces back to where Seiko has made its name – divers. The Prospex line is a step above the loved Seiko 5 line and is home to some of their most popular references. The ‘Sumo’ nomenclature seen in the name of this watch is actually not a name given by Seiko, but it is actually a nickname, and many believe it refers to the distance between the lugs being quite large – 20mm. 

The ‘PADI’ name, on the other hand, seen on the 6 o’clock subregister, does mean something. It stands for ‘The Professional Association of Diving Instructors’ and is only displayed on watches that would actually work in their environment. 

You’ll find the V192 caliber within the 44.5mm case giving you the functionality of time, a date aperture at the 4 o’clock position, and a 60-minute chronograph. In fact, the 6 o’clock subregister also displays the power reserve if you take a good look at the dial. 

Large hour plots and sword hands take care of timekeeping duties, while the famous red and blue diver bezel allows the wearer to time their time underwater – or perhaps just how long it takes to get to the front of the line at the DMV. 

7. Seiko Flight Chronograph Solar SSC277

Seiko Flight Chronograph Solar SSC277

From the sea to the sky, we move over to a chronograph taking inspiration from several prominent pilots’ watches in the horological world. The first thing you notice is the E6B navigational slide rule, thanks to the contrasting use of orange on a black ion stainless steel bezel. This rather intriguing complication has various uses in the aviation world. 

The next thing you notice is the unique crown guards that extend up and over the pushers and can be opened to make use of the pushers. The black dial itself is quite busy, displaying large hour markers as well as three contrasting silver subregisters. The hands also feature the same color scheme, combining the contrasting silver and orange. 

Sticking with the ‘large pilots watch’, the case measures a prominent 44mm in diameter but a slim 12mm in thickness. The watch appears somewhat stealthy thanks to the somewhat matte black case and bracelet. Combined with the unique crown guards, it’s a watch that looks, for lack of a better term, kind of badass. 

8. Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC915

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC915

The Speedtimer is the current iteration of Seiko’s sports chrono line and the ref. SSC916 embodies the namesake perfectly. Sporting a 41.4mm highly polished case, a red and black Tachymeter bezel, and a three-link bracelet with a tri-fold push button release clasp. All classically chrono elements and all to be expected from a watch coming in south of $800. 

Drawing your attention to the dial reveals a similar design to the 1969 Speedtimer, featuring three subregisters, but this time these function as the solar cells for the caliber V192. Large hour markers and hands are filled with plenty of LumiBrite if you need to time something in the dark. 

9. Seiko Coutura Solar Chronograph SSG021

Seiko Coutura Solar Chronograph SSG021

Integrated bracelets are the hottest thing on the market at the moment, thanks to heavy hitters like the affordable PRX and not-so-affordable Royal Oak. The ref. SSG021 sports a black-coated steel case and a tapering integrated bracelet sporting a three-fold clasp with push button release. 

The futuristic case design spills over into the dial, which features sword-like hands that look as if they came from Blade Runner. The subtle touch of blue around the 6 o’clock subregister is matched with the blue bezel, which features various big cities around the world – the caliber 8B92 does feature a world time function. 

The caliber also receives standard radio signals from Japan, China, the U.S.A., Germany, and the U.K. Other functions include a chronograph, a power save function, an overcharge prevention function, and many others. Definitely not a design that’s for everyone, especially not purists, but who doesn’t like messing with purists every now and then? 

10. Seiko “Save The Ocean” Diver Solar SSC701

Seiko "Save The Ocean" Diver Solar SSC701

Perhaps a futuristic chrono isn’t your game. Maybe you’d like a robust diver, like the 43.5mm stainless steel ref. SSC701. While it may seem like something you’d see every day, this is part of their ‘Save the Ocean Prospex’ line and features a dial adorned with various hues of blues in a wave pattern. Parts of the proceeds will be donated to the non-profit Fabien Cousteau Ocean Learning Center.

Large white hour markers and hand make the busy dial rather legible, and the massive 60-minute track on the unidirectional blue-black bezel will come in handy within murky waters. Thanks to a screw-down crown and pushers, you have 200m of water resistance combined with the blue rubber strap, making this Prospex diver the perfect choice for your next marine outing.

11. Seiko Solar Chronograph SSC775

Seiko Solar Chronograph SSC775

From a robust diver to a sporty and slim chrono, we have the ref. SSC775 or otherwise known as the Macchina Sportiva Solar. Seiko and Italdesign created this version taking inspiration from the 1996 Macchina Sportiva (sports car). A unique combination of blue and orange along the dial and strap makes for a sporty appearance, matched with a sleek 41mm polished steel case. 

The hexagonal pattern dial features two recessed circular subregisters and one hexagonal subregister, the latter located at the 9 o’clock position. As with most chronographs, a tachymeter is presented on the sloped rehaut (or flange), and beneath the applied Seiko name sits a recessed date aperture. 

The dial accomplishes a sporty and aesthetic look without having too much visual pollution, a feat easier said than done when considering it’s a solar-powered chrono. 

Pump pushers and a textured screw-down case not only solidify the sporty nature of the timepiece but also afford the watch 100m water resistance. 

12. Seiko Coutura Perpetual Calendar SSC787

Seiko Coutura Perpetual Calendar SSC787

Coming back to the futuristic chronographs we discussed earlier, but this time in silver with subtle hints of blue on the bezel and hands. A three-link integrated bracelet is matched with a polished 44mm stainless steel case, resistant to 100m below sea level. 

The dial is certainly the business end of the timepiece, a rather quirky design. The main dial features three subregisters. The lower features two hands displaying the 24-hour and running seconds functions. The 9 o’clock subregister displays the 60-minute chronograph counter, while the 12 o’clock subregister displays the day of the week and the power display. 

The movement within is the caliber V198, a solar-powered unit that has a power reserve rated at 6 months when fully charged. 

13. Seiko Solar Chronograph SSC715

Seiko Solar Chronograph SSC715

From quirky designs to something more classic and timeless, this 43mm steel chronograph ref. SSC715 doesn’t try to be anything it isn’t. The polished three-link bracelet blends seamlessly with the brushed case featuring polished elements on the pushers and crown. A thin steel bezel with a black insert displaying engraved tachymeter markings.

The contrasting matte black dial starts at a sloped outer dial and features luminous silver-tone hands and index hour markers. The no-nonsense dial features three recessed subregister dials located at the 6, 9, and 12 o’clock positions. Powering the hands is the Seiko Caliber V176, a Rattrapante chronograph displaying the date at the 3 o’clock position. 

14. Seiko Solar Diver Chronograph SSC783

Seiko Solar Diver Chronograph SSC783

Seiko is known for creating some of the most affordable divers that can still stand the test of time. The ref. SSC783 presents itself as another classic example of this, sporting a rather robust 44mm case featuring the famous ‘Pepsi’ color scheme on the bezel. Moving inwards to the dial, you’ll be met with three subregisters displaying the chronograph and 24-hour functions.

Below the 3 o’clock subregister sits the subtle date aperture hidden away without a cyclops. Large luminous covered hands and hour markers take care of timekeeping duties, while the red chronograph hands provide a hint of red contrasting to the blue dial. As is customary with all of the watches on the list, this one is powered by a solar-powered movement, the caliber V175, which will maintain an accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month. 

15. Seiko Astron GPS Solar SSH024

Seiko Astron GPS Solar SSH024

Last on the list is the dressiest of them all, the Astron GPS Solar ref. SSH024. The steel case is covered with a brass-colored coating that has been hardened for increased robustness. Sized for contemporary tastes at 42.7mm, equipped with a sapphire crystal, and matched with a blue-black silicone strap – ticking all the boxes so far. 

The dial is something special. Large brass-colored hands are matched with similarly colored hour markers and outer rims to the subregisters. The Seiko scripture is also finished in the same scheme, elevating the sporty watch to something a bit more luxurious. 

Of course, three subregisters are located on the dial displaying several complications – a perpetual calendar, a dual-time indicator, and a power reserve indicator. Other complications include a world timer function and a GPS signal reception function to ensure your time is always correct. All the watch you could ever need, snugly fitting in a 13.3mm thin case. 

Conclusion

Seiko is known for creating options for everyone, from the kid down your street to the millionaire who simply wants a beater while they go diving. The solar options presented here all feature multiple complications and a chronograph, a combination that seems like a no-brainer if you really think about it. Whether it’s your first watch or if you’re adding to your collection, you simply cannot go wrong with a solar Seiko chrono – hell, you don’t even have to worry about a power reserve.

Best Seiko Field watches

Ah, Seiko… the Japanese giant that began as a clock repair shop in Tokyo but has enthralled us with astonishing value for over 100 years. When I ask people what they think about Seiko, I often get responses that range from admiration to disdain.

Yup, disdain. But only from the few enthusiasts who are hung up on Swiss-made. And I know that deep down in their hearts, they are attracted by the exotic allure of these unique pieces that reveal Japanese aesthetics and craftsmanship.

I mean, who wouldn’t fall in love with a well-regarded watch brand that offers access to some enticing and reliable little machines with beautiful, timeless designs? 

For people like us who are content with non-Swiss watches, there’s a certain Seiko magic that draws us in, especially since Seiko offers a range of options. One of these is the rugged field watches with design codes originating from a prestigious military heritage. While originally invented for soldiers, field watches have become a necessity for adventurers and outdoorsmen.

Their simplicity, durability, and legibility make them perfect for adrenaline-pumping activities. So here are the 20 best field watches from Seiko on the market right now!

About Seiko Field Watches

When looking at every Seiko model, it is impossible to miss one of the brand’s most functional and straightforward timepieces: field watches. Seiko’s field watches were originally made for soldiers during World War 1, so they all draw inspiration from a military heritage and are designed to withstand extreme warfare.

Though the field watch catalog is extremely broad and cuts across different collections, many of them can be found in the “Seiko Five” collection. Launched in 1963 with the debut of the Seiko Sportsmatic 5, the Seiko 5 series includes hundreds of “daily beater” watches that offer high levels of reliability, durability, and value.

The 5 stands for a durable case and bracelet, automatic winding, day/date display, water resistance, and a recessed crown at the 4 o’clock position. These features, combined with the simplicity and ruggedness of these watches, make them great for hiking, mountaineering, and the outdoors in general.

There is the ‘Flieger’ collection with watches created for pilots and navigators. There is also a new Seiko 5 sports ‘stealth’ that draws inspiration from the original 5 Sports classics from 1960 and a 5 Sports GMT SKX re-interpretation. 

Other iconic collections with robust and stylish watches by the brand include the Prospex collection, Seiko Presage, Seiko Cocktail Time, and Seiko Astron.

History of Seiko Field Watches

Japan’s most relentless watchmaking company started its journey in 1881 when Kintaro Hattori opened a clock shop in Tokyo. Hattori’s shop began with the repair of watches, and soon he began to resell imported timepieces from the West which could not be found anywhere in Asia.

The rarity of the imported watches made him extremely popular, allowing him to relocate to the epicenter of Japan’s commerce; Ginza. In 1892, Mr. Hattori, now 32 years old, began the production of clocks under the name “Seikosha”, which means “House of Exquisite Workmanship.” The growing success continued, and by 1895, the first in-house pocket watch, “the Timekeeper”, was launched. 

The Laurel followed in 1913 and was the very first Japanese-made wristwatch. Seikosha was changed to “Seiko” in 1924, and the first Seiko-branded wristwatch was released in the year 1924.

The 2nd World War began in 1939, and it was at this time that Seiko began manufacturing wartime timepieces or field watches. These watches were built upon three core principles; instant legibility, accuracy, and durability, making them very practical for combat.

Over the years, Seiko’s field watches have evolved but continue to deliver consistently high levels of performance and value, earning them a cult following worldwide. Without further ado, let’s delve right into the 20 best field watches from Seiko!

The Best Seiko Field Watches

1. Seiko 5 Sports Field SRPG27

Seiko 5 Sports Field SRPG27

Starting this list is none other than the Seiko 5 Field Sports SRPG27 – a silver-toned gem-in-watch made of 316L stainless steel with a matte finish that resists both scratches and reflections. What makes it a great field watch? It possesses top-notch functionality with a rather enchanting aesthetic.

Its sleek and sturdy build makes it the perfect choice for hanging out or taking a thrilling trip into the jungle. Apart from the fitting dimension of 39.4mm across and lug-to-lug distance of 48.1mm, the SRPG27 was built as a utility watch with a charming design.

The matte black dial is insanely simple, with Seiko’s trademark LumiBrite generously applied on the hands and indexes. Applied Arabic numerals add some class and sophistication while functionality is taken to a whole new level with a neat day/date window at 3 o’clock. What’s more, it comes with a second set of numerals printed within the main ones for military time – an essential feature for every proper field watch.

The watch is powered by Seiko’s reliable 4R36 automatic caliber with 24 jewels and a 40-hour power reserve. For a watch priced a little below $300, getting a movement accurate to +45 and -35 seconds per day may be a spoiler, but the design captures the spirit of the original Sportsmatic 5.

2. Seiko 5 Field Suits SRPJ89

Seiko 5 Field Suits SRPJ89

The Seiko 5 Field Sports SRPJ89 demonstrates the mastery of Japanese artisans. The obvious attention to detail and dedication to perfection has birthed this elegant piece. This one is a military-inspired timepiece that combines a good mix of ruggedness and elegance.

This stylish timepiece has been created with a 36mm case and a vintage calf leather strap which is just what a man needs to survive some serious adventure. A spark that raises this watch a bar higher is its intensity on the “Kelly Green Flieger suit-style” feature. The sunburst green dial is vibrant with a smart-casual aesthetic that is clear and easy to read quickly.

If you’re looking for a versatile field watch, this is the one. Even if you don’t plan on wearing this timepiece for serious tactical operations, the SRPJ89 is a versatile watch perfectly suited for any activity with its mission-ready look.

The watch features a navigator dial layout with minutes/seconds in intervals of five as the major numeral display while the conventional one to twelve display has been relegated to the inner ring. 

It features a see-through case back which is a nice touch for those who like to see the inner workings of their watches. Like the SRPG27, it houses the humble 4R35 movement with a day-date function and is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters.

3. Seiko 5 Sports Field SRPH29

Seiko 5 Sports Field SRPH29

For a smart-casual style with a hint of vintage aesthetics, go SRPH29! This one right here flawlessly fits the vibe of a field watch with its tactical look and military air, thanks to the army-green strap. The SRPH29 has a mesmerizing forest green dial with slight tints of a dull lime-green coloration under direct sunlight.

The bold white hour markers and hands feature a generous application of Seiko’s LumiBrite, making it incredibly simple to read. The minute tracks with minute numerals in 5-minute increments and an inner 12-hour track add to its functionality.

And Seiko, to add even more clarity and legibility, included contrasting orange hour marker lume pips at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock positions. Talk about attention to detail! The watch features a slightly domed Seiko Hardlex crystal, which is scratch-resistant enough for everyday use.

It also has a day/date calendar, luminous hands and markers, and an orange-tipped secondhand. The SRPH29 comes in a 39.4mm stainless steel case with a brushed finish that runs uniformly throughout the case, including the bezel and sides. 

The curved Hardlex crystal and LumiBrite hands and indexes also add to the watch’s durability and readability. The Seiko 5 Sports Field SRPH29 comes assembled in a stainless steel case that measures 39.4mm in width, 48.1 mm lug to lug, and 13.2 mm from crystal to case back.

4. Seiko 5 Sports Field SRPJ83

 Seiko 5 Sports Field SRPJ83

There’s no doubt about it; the Sports Field SRPJ83 from Seiko has a bold appearance. It is just what anyone would expect from a standard field watch. Large Arabic numerals for hour markers, luminous markings, bold monochrome hands filled with LumiBrite, and a sandy-toned dial. It brings to mind the SNK series and is a perfect choice for anyone just venturing into the world of mechanical watches.

The stark beige dial with black accents has the familiar field-watch layout. There are bold Arabic numeral hour markers (including a smaller 24-hour numeral below), a day and date display at three o’clock, and lume-filled hands and indices. There is also a red-tipped secondhand that adds a pop of color and enlivens the somber dial excellently. 

The watch case measures 36mm in diameter and is 12.5mm thick but wears slightly larger, thanks to the comfortable beige nylon strap. The overall aesthetics of the SRPJ83 gives off more aviator vibes than the watches we have looked at, and it is an adventurous field watch. It also has a see-through case back, allowing you to see the movement (caliber 4R36) in action. The SRPJ83 is water resistant up to 100 meters.

5. Seiko 5 Field Suits SRPH25

Seiko 5 Field Suits SRPH25

The Seiko 5 Field Suits SRPH25 is one of the most loved military-grade field watches from Seiko. This is the timepiece that does everything right, has everything right, and is solid enough to take anything thrown at it. Summer is just around the corner, and if you’re searching for an adventurous watch that can do-it-all, then look no further.

The SRPH25 is a great inexpensive, yet high-performing field watch that would suit any watch enthusiast looking for something traditional with a fashionable touch. The watch has a thickness of 13.2mm, a diameter of 39.4mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 48.1mm, which is close to a perfect proportion if you ask me.

And with a weight of 123.0g, the watch feels substantial on the wrist without being too heavy. The watch’s aesthetics make it great for adventures, parties, business, and casual events alike. The watch’s black dial is marked in five-minute increments, making it easy to read at a glance.

The 60-minute track adds to the watch’s functionality, and the luminous hands and index markers make it easy to read in low-light conditions. Seiko’s 4R36 automatic movement can be viewed through the exhibition case back.

6. Seiko 5 Field Street SRPJ09

Seiko 5 Field Street SRPJ09

The Seiko 5 Field Street SRPJ09 is a vintage-inspired military masterpiece created to be reliable, durable, and trendy. The design appears thoroughly modern, thanks to the sleek all-black polish feature. The beater watch comes constructed in a black plated stainless steel case that measures 39.4mm x 13.5mm, with a tip-to-tip distance of 48mm.

The black ion-plating finish of the case enhances the watch’s durability and makes it highly corrosion-resistant. The bracelet is made of the same material, and the tri-fold push-button release clasp with lock adds a touch of elegance to the overall design.

The black satin dial features a luminous marker track and a 24-hour inner ring for telling military time. It is accentuated by a white day/date display at 3 o’clock and protected from minor impacts by the scratch-resistant Hardlex crystal.

It is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters and also features an exhibition case back, which is like a backstage pass to the inner workings of the caliber 4R36.  

7. Seiko 5 Field Street SRPH33

Seiko 5 Field Street SRPH33

It is no news that the SRPH33 is a reinterpretation of one of Seiko’s best-selling watch series, the SNK80X. The robust and reliable timepiece combines vintage military design with modern functionality. The all-black street-style design is accented by different materials, textures, and finishes, making it a real eye-catcher.

The black dial, protected by a curved Hardlex crystal, features military numbers on the outer dial and Arabic numerals on the inner chapter ring, with orange accents on the minute track and luminous black baton-style hands. The watch also features a black double date window at 3 o’clock with white numbers and red and blue highlights for weekends.

The 39.4mm black ion-plated stainless steel case of the SRPH33 houses Seiko’s caliber 4R36 automatic movement with manual winding capability and 24 jewels, ensuring accurate timekeeping with a power reserve of approximately 41 hours. The case back is a stainless steel screw-down exhibition case, displaying this movement.

The case is water-resistant up to 100 meters and comes mounted on a black textile strap of canvas and leather, featuring orange accents on the inner side with a strap length of 20mm. With a weight of only 76 grams, the SRPH33 is lightweight and ideal for serious adventurers searching for a superbly functional field watch.  

8. Seiko 5 Field Specialist SRPG42

Seiko 5 Field Specialist SRPG42

The SRPG42 is a fun watch with a refreshing look that will add a certain flavor to your outfit. At 39.4mm in diameter and a lug-to-lug distance of 48.1mm, the size is just right for most medium-sized wrist sizes.  The green dial features gold-tone markers to match the case and Lumibrite hands and indexes.

The design of the dial is nothing eccentric, just the same highly legible display with large Arabic hour numbering, with smaller luminescent hour indicators and markers for minutes. You’ve also got a day/date window at the 3 o’clock position, large hands, and a red-tipped seconds hand.

A domed scratch-resistant Hardlex crystal keeps the dial safe, while the 100 meters water resistance rating makes it okay for swimming and snorkeling. It’s the perfect accessory to show off your fun-loving side while enjoying the sun and burning some energy. 

It has been built to last with adventuring in mind, so gladly join outdoor activities with style and jump right into the pool or sea with the SRPG42. Ticking underneath the see-through case back is the Caliber 4R36 automatic movement with 41 hours of power reserve.

9. Seiko 5 Field Suits SRPH21

Seiko 5 Field Suits SRPH21

Seiko has scored another home run with the Suits SRPH21, a timepiece that ticks all the boxes with regard to functionality but is profoundly aesthetically pleasing. Ask me about a field watch that is also perfect for wearing out in the evenings and to social or corporate events, and I’ll offer you this one.

In addition to the beauty of the case, the stainless steel mesh Milanese-type bracelet is chunky, solid, super comfortable, and doesn’t pull on arm hair. The opaline sunburst white dial has been designed in such a way that it can be seen from at least 2 meters away.

It has large minute markers in intervals of five on the outer dial and black-rimmed hour markers with Arabic numerals at the center. The watch has a diameter of 39.4mm, a thickness of 13.2mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 48.1mm. As with recent releases, it is produced with the automatic caliber 4R36. It is also water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters and features scratch-resistant Hardlex crystal.

10. Seiko Prospex SPB121

Seiko Prospex SPB121

Get ready to climb new heights of style with the Seiko Prospex SPB121. This watch is a re-interpretation of the 1959 Alpinist wristwatch and is a masterpiece with the same feel as the aesthetic watch of the last decades.

Powered by the reliable, just released 6R35 automatic movement, it offers a precision of +25 to -15 seconds per day and an impressive 70-hour power reserve and is a self-winding automatic with 24 jewels.

With a 39.5mm diameter and a slim 13.2mm case thickness, with a lug-to-lug distance of 46.4mm, this watch was made of calfskin to sit comfortably on your wrist without being prodigious; you won’t even notice it’s there (until everyone compliments it on you, that is). The stainless steel case boasts a simple yet sophisticated finish, allowing the dark olive sunray patterned dial to steal the show. 

Encircling the dial is an internal rotating compass track, perfect for the adventurous souls out there. With its brown calf-skin leather strap (alligator grained for added sophistication), and a stainless steel three-fold clasp with a push-button release, this watch ensures a secure and comfortable fit.  

It also features a rotating compass inner ring and a see-through back case. Oh, and it’s water-resistant to a depth of 200 meters.    

11. Seiko 5 SNK809

Seiko 5 SNK809

The SNK809 is another vintage-inspired masterpiece that seamlessly blends contemporary features with a 1930s military watch vibe. The 37mm case is compact and wearable for anyone with an average-sized wrist. It features a fine matte, bead-blasted finish that opposes both reflections and scratches, while a curved Hardlex mineral crystal keeps the dial highly legible. 

The matte black dial is playful, legible, and visually satisfying and denotes a true sense of attention to detail. Black dial watches are often tricky and can be hit or miss with regard to their reflective properties, but the SNK809 handles it quite well.

The layout of the dial is similar to what we have previously looked at, but this one has a subtle texture that can be noticed under radiant light. The base of the second hand is round and luminous, while the triangular tip is vivid red.

As with the majority of others in this collection, the water resistance of the SNK809 is rated at 100 meters, which is more than sufficient for non-professional divers like us. Topping the dial is our familiar Hardlex crystal, which indicates that this piece is playing in an entry-level field.

12. Seiko Prospex SPB337

Seiko Prospex SPB337

The Seiko Prospex SPB337 comes in a limited edition with exceptional technical features and unique design elements. Perfect for watch collectors and adventurers alike, the timepiece is a blacked-out interpretation of the dual-crown Alpinist that first appeared in the year 1995.

The 39.5mm stainless steel case with black hard coating has a brushed finish on top of the lugs, polished sides, and a smoked finish at the back, making it stylish and durable. The black dial with silver-tone markers and alternating Arabic numerals for even numbers and wedges for odd numbers gives the watch a classic yet modern look.

The watch’s practical and adventurous rotating inner compass ring with orange accents for all north-related texts is also a standout feature. Its sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inner surface, screw-down crown, and see-through case back add to its durability and reliability.

This watch features a reliable in-house Seiko 6R35 automatic movement with a 70-hour power reserve and manual winding capability, perfect for everyday or outdoor use. Its impressive 200-meter water resistance rating is a testament to its functionality.

13. Seiko 5 SNE329

Seiko 5 SNE329

The SNE329 is presented on a 43.2mm wide and 10.7mm tall nicely finished stainless steel case with captivating beveled edges and a push-pull crown at 3 o’clock. The bezel is interesting and features a coin edge and a black triangular marker at 12 o’clock that might trick a few people into thinking it rotates when it doesn’t.

Sitting on top of the case is Seiko’s proprietary Hardlex, which is expected at this price point. The blue sunray dial is the star of the show and contrasts with light beautifully, giving off a metallic blue reflection when sunlight hits it right.

The dial has been stripped to the barest necessities and is extremely legible and neat. All that can be seen are a few markings at 6 o’clock that describe the movement type and the water resistance rating (100 meters). There’s also an applied Seiko logo below 12 o’clock that keeps the symmetry of the dial well-balanced. 

A nice day/date window has been cleverly positioned in a manner that allows it to nestle in between the upper and lower lines of the 3 o’clock marker. Speaking of clarity, you can’t miss the huge, elegant stenciled Arabic numerals. Seiko has done a great job here by decorating them with a gloss white finish.

That said, legibility certainly is pretty easy, even for those who may not have very good eye vision. The watch is powered by a quartz movement, the V158 and comes mounted on a blue nylon strap.

14. Seiko Prospex SPB157

Seiko Prospex SPB157

I can’t help but admire the Seiko Prospex SPB157’s modern and unique design, which tastefully honors the 1959 Alpinist wristwatch. It’s as if Seiko took a time machine back to 1959 and brought the watch to the 21st century, giving it an updated design that pushes the boundaries of watchmaking.

One of the things that set this timepiece apart is its impressive water resistance rating of 200 meters, which is achieved through the stainless steel screw-down crown that acts as a fortress against dirt and moisture intrusion.

The 38mm stainless steel case boasts a blue sandblast pattern gradient dial that adds sophistication to its sporty character. The curved anti-reflective sapphire crystal provides excellent visibility of the gilded LumiBright skeletonized cathedral-style hands, with a playful orange-tipped second hand.

The watch’s beating heart is Seiko’s in-house movement, caliber 6R35, which offers an impressive 70-hour power reserve capacity. The blue calf-skin leather strap with blue matching decorative stitch is the icing on the cake, adding a touch of elegance to its overall appeal. 

The Seiko Prospex SPB157’s hack feature allows for precise setting synchronization, making it an ideal choice for urban living and the perfect gold standard for watch enthusiasts of all levels.

15. Seiko 5 SRP623

Seiko 5 SRP623

The SRP623 is a watch with classic good looks and impeccable durability. From the moment you lay eyes on it, you know you’re in for something different. It is unpretentious, rugged, highly legible, and as practical and understated as you’d expect a field watch from Seiko to be. 

At 44mm, the stainless steel case may seem a tad large, but trust me, it wears comfortably on the wrist. The blue dial with silver-toned hour markers and alternating Arabic numerals and wedges for odd and even numbers is a unique touch that catches the eye.

Flip over the watch, and you’ll be treated to an exhibition window displaying the impressive in-house Seiko 4R36 automatic movement, which boasts 24 jewels and a 40-hour power reserve. The blue nylon weave strap is equally impressive, with a snug-fitting buckle clasp that keeps the watch comfortably flat on your wrist.

The quality is first class, and with a water resistance rating of 100 meters, you can confidently take it along with any off-grid adventuring, irrespective of the weather condition. This tactical watch can equally be worn with smart casual attire and will look stylish on your wrist when you hang out during the weekend. 

16. Seiko Prospex SPB117

Seiko Prospex SPB117

The SPB117 is a rugged and tough field watch that has excellently captured the spirit of the Japanese “mountain men” from the 1960s. The Alpinist has a historical appeal that continues to enchant collectors for over 50 years, and this timepiece features the same design elements that evoke that old charm.

The aesthetics of the dial are not found in other models, and though the watch could never really be regarded as formal, it is versatile enough to be worn with a business suit. With its matte black dial, sleek stainless steel bracelet, and “shark’s tooth” hour markers, the watch is a true standout piece.

The dimensions of the case hit the sweet spot at 39.5mm in diameter and a thickness of 13.2mm. The all-black dial is truly stunning, featuring inverted, triangular hour markers that lend an eccentric and superior look. The outer compass ring on the bezel also adds to the watch’s adventurous character, with two rings of markings that make orientation a breeze. 

The Seiko 6R35 automatic movement, which is visible through the screw-down case back, provides an impressive power reserve of 70 hours. This means you can easily take it off for the weekend and come back to find it still ticking away.

17. Seiko 5 SNZG13

Seiko 5 SNZG13

The SNZG13 is another model inspired by the legendary watches worn by military personnel in the 20th century. The watch has the same rugged, outdoorsy features and is very simple and functional. The case is well-finished and clean, with no frills or noticeable elements to speak of. It measures 42mm in diameter and has a height of 12mm.

The dial contains a lot of information but has managed to stay clean and very legible. Along the perimeter of the dial, you will find a raised internal bezel that adds depth to the dial with bold luminescent hash markers for hours and smaller markers for minutes/seconds.

The main dial features a large 12-hour numerical scale. Moving towards the center of the dial, you will find a 24-hour scale which provides a sensible utilitarian function to the timepiece. As indicated above 6 o’clock, the watch is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters and is powered by Seiko’s automatic movement, the Caliber 7S36.

18. Seiko Prospex SPB209

 Seiko Prospex SPB209

Housed within the Seiko Prospex line, the SPB209 is a well-built timepiece made to tolerate all manner of grueling conditions. The Prospex line from Seiko features a lineup of quintessential high-end tool watches dedicated to professionals that require them in different fields.

That said, this watch is a badass piece that can confidently stand toe-to-toe with the very best field watches from top watch brands. Everything from build quality to legibility and precision is nothing short of what a true professional yearns for. 

The timepiece is presented on a 39.5mm stainless steel case with a screw-down crown for setting the time at 3 and another crown at 4 for setting the bezel. On the matter of functionality, the stunning graduated brown dial with gold accents features an internal compass bezel that will ensure precise timekeeping no matter what your adventure may entail.

At the outer rim of the bezel, the compass ring has markings for every 15 degrees, while the inner ring has markings for every degree. The North, Northwest, and Northeast markings have the ‘N’ in a vivid red coloration, which helps with navigation.

The watch is powered by the updated 6R35 movement with an impressive 70-hour power reserve and is water resistant to a depth of 200 meters.

19. Seiko Field Chronograph SNN241 

Seiko Field Chronograph SNN241 

The Seiko Field Chronograph SNN241 is a watch that punches above its weight in the affordable luxury game. It’s like finding a hidden gem that radiates class and manliness without emptying your wallet.

For the dimensions, the stainless steel case measures a fitting 42mm in diameter and features a slim bezel and lugs that have been satin-brushed to give it a sporty flair. The overall user experience is further elevated by the case sides, which have been polished to perfection.

The brown dial is pretty straightforward with a sunburst finish that catches the light like nobody’s business and has a raised chapter ring for that extra touch of depth. The sub-dials at 12 and 6 o’clock allow you to measure 60 seconds and 60 minutes, respectively, while the date window at 6 o’clock keeps you practical and punctual.

Slap this beauty on your wrist, and you’ll be rocking a brown calfskin leather strap with eye-catching contrasting stitching. This watch runs on a trusty quartz movement that keeps things accurate and hassle-free; plus, it can handle swimming and snorkeling with a water resistance of 100 meters.

The Seiko Field Chronograph SNN241 is the perfect blend of style and substance. It’s the kind of watch that screams sophistication without making a fuss. As usual with Seiko watches within this price range, the SNZG13 features the brand’s proprietary and very scratch-resistant Hardlex crystal.

20. Seiko Prospex SPB210

Just in case there’s a zombie apocalypse in the nearest future, this is the watch you want to latch on to as you make the final exit from your home.

The Prospex SPB210 is purpose-built for professionals with heritage design elements similar to the Original Alpinist. The Alpinist model is one of the most recognized series of timepieces with a profound history, reputation, and adoration from collectors around the globe.

The SPB210 retains the spirit and vintage look of the legendary icon and comes packed with functional features and new technical touches to optimize its performance. It offers the same appeal as a traditional field watch would but has a sleeker look with retro vibes.

The case of the SPB210 measures 39.5mm across, and it is presented in full IP gold with two crowns and a screw-in display case back. The sunbeam forest green patterned dial is surrounded by an internal rotating compass track and protected by a curved anti-reflective sapphire crystal. 

The dial features slanted Arabic numerals juxtaposed with luminous triangular hour markers. There is a magnified date window at 3 o’clock and a skeletonized cathedral-style hand with gold accents. The watch is powered by Seiko’s in-house automatic movement, the caliber 6R35, which provides a 70-hour power reserve. 

Conclusion

So there you have it. The 20 Best Seiko Field Watches. Seiko understands how to fuse minimalism and functionality to produce robust field watches that are reliable and elegant.

The good news is that these watches are easy to operate and all scream adventure, agility, and fun at an affordable price point! 

There are more amazing field watches from the Japanese giant, but this iconic selection entails some of our favorites. These field watches can do it all, take it all, tell the time accurately, and look flawless anywhere, anytime.

best seiko dress watches

Seiko is widely known for its dive watches and for being the first to use a quartz movement, revolutionizing the industry. Of course, Seiko aficionados will also know them for their high-end luxury watch lines like Grand Seiko and King Seiko. 

However, the general public, at least in the West, likely views them as a budget brand. They’re often regarded as the Toyota of the watch world. Solid timepieces that will keep on ticking for years to come, but nothing extraordinary. However, that’s not their whole story. 

It’s true Seiko does have budget-conscious collections, which get the job done while cutting a few corners. Conversely, besides their high-end lines, they also have a few middle-grade dress watches that are exceptionally well-made and beautiful. 

They’re also a watch company that makes everything that goes into their products, from their own in-house movements to the lubricant that keeps the parts moving; something you might expect from Rolex or Patek Philippe, but Seiko? And yet that’s exactly what they deliver. 

Some of the handmade, artisan work on their sub-$2,000 dials could rival a timepiece that’s six or ten times the price. In this article, we’ve identified some of the best Seiko dress watches for your consideration, and only one of them breaks the $3,000 mark.

So, if you’re looking for a refined, elegant wristwatch that will elevate your style at work and for those special occasions without assaulting your pocketbook, let’s dive in or, in this case, button up. 

About Seiko Dress Watches

Seiko, the renowned Japanese watchmaker, offers an array of dress watch collections, each with its unique features and designs. Here’s a short guide to some of Seiko’s notable dress watch collections and their standout models:

1. Seiko Presage: The Presage collection is known for its exquisite craftsmanship and traditional Japanese aesthetics. One standout model is the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRPB43J1, featuring a captivating blue sunburst dial with a cocktail-inspired pattern, stainless steel case, and a date window at 3 o’clock. The watch is powered by a reliable automatic movement and boasts a power reserve of up to 41 hours.

2. Seiko Premier: The Premier collection embodies modern elegance with its sophisticated designs and advanced functionalities. The Seiko Premier Kinetic Perpetual SNP139P1 is a standout model, featuring a sleek black dial with gold-tone accents, a stainless steel case, and a perpetual calendar that automatically adjusts for leap years until February 2100. The watch also boasts Seiko’s Kinetic technology, which converts kinetic energy into electrical energy to power the watch, making it eco-friendly and hassle-free.

3. King Seiko: Originally introduced in the 1960s, it has been recently re-introduced, keeping some of its vintage ‘60s vibes but with elevated materials, the latest tech, and the features expected of a modern watch. The King line sits somewhere between your standard Seiko and the brand’s flagship, Grand Seiko, which offers high-end luxury watches that compete with the likes of Rolex and Omega.  

History of Seiko Dress Watches

Seiko is one of the world’s most recognized watch brands, and they’ve been shaking up the watch industry for over 142 years, most notably when they induced the first quartz-powered wristwatch on Christmas Day in 1969 and sent shockwaves through the industry. 

While they’re often known for their budget tool watches, the brand has been making luxury timepieces since the 1920s, and even earlier, when they first introduced the now lionized Laurel wristwatch in 1913. A model that was recently reintroduced under the Presage line. Starting in the 1960s, the Grand Seiko and King Seiko lines were also introduced, designed to rival even the most upmarket brands out of Switzerland. 

In particular, some of their dial work is second to none. Both their Urushi dials, with their lacquered, traditional Japanese art designs and their glass-like enamel dials, are true masterpieces on the wrist. You’ll catch yourself and other admirers staring at the details, noticing the way the light plays off each intricate layer.

The Best Seiko Dress Watches 

SEIKO PRESAGE LAUREL RE-EDITION SPB359

The Laurel wristwatch, upon which this re-edition SPB359 is based, is an iconic timepiece that has played a significant role in the history of the Japanese watch industry. Introduced by Seiko in 1913, the Laurel is widely regarded as the first wristwatch produced in Japan.

The man behind the Laurel was Kintaro Hattori, the founder of Seiko. Hattori was a skilled watchmaker who established his own watch repair shop in Tokyo in 1881. He quickly gained a reputation for producing high-quality timepieces and went on to establish the Seikosha factory to produce watches on a larger scale.

This re-edition of the Laurel marks its 110th anniversary and is a limited-edition timepiece with only 2,500 in circulation. 

There’s an elegance to the round stainless steel case, measuring 37.5mm. There’s a large onion crown with filigree work. The dial is a white enamel with blue hands and black numerals. There’s a power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock and a subdial date scale at the six o’clock position. 

The timepiece is powered by the Caliber 6R27 automatic movement with a 45-hour power reserve. It’s water resistant to 50m and is paired with a thick brown leather strap with a tang buckle. 

Price: $1,800

SEIKO PRESAGE PRESTIGE SPB293

SEIKO PRESAGE PRESTIGE SPB293

The SPB293 from the Presage Prestige collection features these Arita porcelain dials that are absolutely beguiling. Japanese Arita porcelain is a type of porcelain that originates from the town of Arita in the Saga prefecture of Japan. It is known for its delicate beauty and intricate designs, which have been highly prized for centuries.

These dials are meticulously designed by expert artisans. With this timepiece, they’ve created a 3D effect with the pure white enamel dial. The blue hands are a snappy contrast to the white, and the seconds hand is anchored by a delicately crafted crescent moon.

The time is displayed in blue, raised Roman numerals. The stainless steel case measures 40.5mm and sits at 12.4mm thick on the wrist. The timepiece is powered by the Caliber 6R31 automatic with a 70-hour power reserve. 

It’s water resistant to 100m and is paired with a stainless steel bracelet. The bracelet features a three-fold clasp with a push button release. 

Price: $1,700 

SEIKO PRESAGE PRESTIGE SPB045

SEIKO PRESAGE PRESTIGE SPB045

The SPB045 is similar to the SPB293 above, however, with some notable distinctions. This is another timepiece in Seiko’s Presage Prestige collection with a beautiful enamel dial. This watch is entirely made in Japan; it’s not one of these budget deals with mixed Chinese parts.

This has a polished stainless steel case measuring 40.5mm, a white dial with blue hands, and Roman numerals. The process of crafting an enamel dial is rather extensive, and there’s a lot that can go wrong along the way, but when it’s done right, you get a brilliant-looking dial that, in this case, looks like it belongs on a far more expensive watch. 

One of the areas on an enamel dial that can often show cracking and flaws is around the date window, which is why Seiko uses a pointer date subdial on this, as it did with the watch reviewed above. 

The watch is powered by a Caliber 6R27 with a 45-hour power reserve. It’s also water resistant to 100m, which is quite respectable for a dress watch. One could put a non-leather strap on this and swim without any concern.

The timepiece comes with a refined, supple, black alligator leather strap with high gloss. This strap is worth noting, as it’s refreshingly unexpected at this price point. So is the full trigger actuated steel deployant clasp, when one might expect a simple calf leather and a tang buckle in a sub $2,000 watch. 

Price: $1,100 

SEIKO PRESAGE “COCKTAIL TIME” SRPB41

SEIKO PRESAGE “COCKTAIL TIME” SRPB41

The Seiko Presage “Cocktail Time” SRPB41 is a beautifully designed dress watch that combines classic elegance with modern functionality. The watch is inspired by the world-renowned mixologist Hisashi Kishi, who is known for creating cocktails that embody the essence of Japan.

The SRPB41 is part of Seiko’s Presage line, which is known for its high-quality craftsmanship and attention to detail. The watch features a stunning sunburst blue dial reminiscent of a well-crafted cocktail. The dial is adorned with polished silver-tone hour markers and hands, which add a touch of sophistication to the watch.

The date window is located at the 3 o’clock position, and the Seiko logo is prominently displayed just above it. The SRPB41 is powered by Seiko’s 4R35 automatic movement, known for its accuracy and reliability. The watch has a power reserve of approximately 41 hours and is water resistant up to 50 meters.

The case of the watch is made of stainless steel and has a diameter of 40.5mm, which is a great size for a dress watch. The case is finished with a combination of brushed and polished surfaces, which adds to the overall elegance of the watch. The timepiece comes with a stainless steel bracelet that is also finished with a combination of brushed and polished surfaces.

Price: $450 

SEIKO PROSPEX 1959 ALPINIST RE-INTERPRETATION SBDC147

SEIKO PROSPEX 1959 ALPINIST RE-INTERPRETATION SBDC147

The Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-Interpretation SBDC147 is an exceptional timepiece that pays homage to the original Seiko Alpinist from 1959. It is a stunning combination of vintage design and modern technology.

The stainless steel case measures 38mm and sits at 12.9mm on the wrist. This collection comes in gray, cream, or green dials. There’s an option for a brown leather strap or fitted steel bracelet. 

The timepiece is powered by Seiko’s 6R35 automatic with hacking, hand-winding, and a 70-hour power reserve. There’s a date window at 3 o’clock. It’s also water resistant to 200m. 

The Alpinist is a solid, rugged sports watch that’s built to withstand the elements of the outdoors. Perfect for backing through the mountains or camping with your kids in the backyard. 

Price: $590

SEIKO KING SEIKO SPB279

SEIKO KING SEIKO SPB279

The Seiko King is an iconic watch model that was first introduced in the early 1960s. The original King model sat somewhere between your standard budget Seiko and the high-end Grand Seiko. The case of the SPB279 is stainless steel and measures 37mm, and sits at 12.1mm thick on the wrist.

This watch really sings on a smaller wrist and gives one that retro feel. The King is a simple three-hand watch with a silver dial, hands, and raised indices. At the 12 o’clock position, there’s a double index featuring a distinctive diamond pattern. 

The timepiece is powered by Seiko’s 6R31 with hacking seconds and a 70-hour power reserve. It’s water resistant to 100m. The upmarket seven-link bracelet, with its butterfly deployment clasp, feels like an upgrade from the stand steel bracelet Seiko is known for and further distinguishes the King from the standard Seiko.

Price: $1,700 

SEIKO PRESAGE BASIC SRPJ13

SEIKO PRESAGE BASIC SRPJ13

This timepiece is another in the collection of watches inspired by Modern Japanese cocktail lounges. The stainless steel case measures 39.5mm and has a relatively thin profile. The sunburst blue dial with its circular pattern is, of course, the focus point of the watch.

The sharp silver hands and indices add a touch of complexity. There’s a date window at 3 o’clock for functionality. The timepiece is powered by the Caliber 4R35 automatic with a 41-hour power reserve and a water resistance of 50m.

There’s an open case back, revealing the inner workings of the watch. The stainless steel bracelet features a deployment clasp with a push button release and looks commensurate with the price point. 

Price: $450

SEIKO PRESAGE SRPF41

SEIKO PRESAGE SRPF41

Another cocktail timepiece, this one features a distinctive graded green dial with a rough sandpaper finish. There’s a mix of numbers and indices in silver, matching the silver hands. A date window is displayed at 3 o’clock, and the watch features hacking seconds. 

The stainless steel case measures 38.5mm and sits at 11.8mm on the wrist. The watch is paired with a green, calfskin leather strap that includes a three-fold clasp with push button release. 

It’s powered by the 4R35 automatic movement with a 41-hour power reserve. It’s water resistant to 50m. This watch seems appropriately paired with casual business attire, as well as jeans or khakis for a night on the town. 

Price: $500

SEIKO PRESAGE BASIC SSA449

SEIKO PRESAGE BASIC SSA449

This is a unique-looking timepiece with a lot going on, and that’s not usually a good thing, but it all kind of works with this configuration. There’s also a vintage ‘60s vibe to this watch that I dig.

This watch straddles the line between a sports watch and a dress watch, at least in terms of its looks, though I wouldn’t expect this watch to perform in active conditions on land or sea. That’s not a negative since this is in the dress category, just don’t be deceived by the looks.

The stainless steel case measures 40.8mm, which is a nice size. It sits on the wrist at 14.3mm. The dial is a matte black, with silver hands and indices. There’s an off-white lume to the hands and an off-white, almost candlelight subdial, which functions as a pointer date.

There’s also a large power reserve indicator that stretches from 11 o’clock all the way to the 4 o’clock position. The timepiece is powered by the 4R57 automatic movement with a 41-hour power reserve. It’s water resistant to 50m. It features hacking seconds and a solid, stainless steel bracelet. 

I normally favor simple watch designs, but while there’s a lot going on with the dial, it’s in balance and just looks sharp.

Price: $650

SEIKO DOLCE GOLD SACM150

SEIKO DOLCE GOLD SACM150

The Seiko Dolce Gold SACM150 is an exquisite timepiece that exudes elegance and sophistication. This watch is part of Seiko’s prestigious Dolce collection. The SACM150 features a stainless steel case measuring 36mm and is coated with a lustrous gold-tone finish, which adds a trace of opulence to its appearance.

It’s razor-thin at 5.3mm on the wrist. The dial of the SACM150 is adorned with a mesmerizing pattern that resembles the texture of fine silk fabric, creating a luxurious and visually-appealing aesthetic. The gold-tone hour markers and hands are meticulously crafted on this simple three-hand watch.

This Dolce timepiece is powered by Seiko’s renowned quartz movement, and it is water-resistant to 30m. All this is paired with a black caiman (alligator-like) leather with a tang buckle. The timepiece appears far more luxurious than the price point would indicate. 

Price: $350

SEIKO PRESAGE BASIC SRPD99

SEIKO PRESAGE BASIC SRPD99

This is another handsome timepiece from the Presage collection. The black dial with silver hands and what looks like diamond-filled indices make for an eye-catching display. There’s also a date window at 3 o’clock. The stainless steel case measures 38.3mm and sits at 11.2mm on the wrist, making this a good unisex model. 

The watch is powered by the 4R35 automatic movement, with a 41-hour power reserve. It’s splash-resistant but not a watch meant for swimming, which is perfectly acceptable in the dress watch category, though it does limit the versatility of the watch. It’s paired with an upmarket stainless steel bracelet with a three-fold clasp with a push button release. 

Price: $500

SEIKO PRESAGE SHARP EDGE SPB165

SEIKO PRESAGE SHARP EDGE SPB165

Seiko’s Presage Sharp Edge series is a collection of timepieces that exude a modern and sophisticated style. Inspired by the sharp edges and clean lines of contemporary architecture, these watches are characterized by their sleek and angular designs, making them stand out in Seiko’s esteemed Presage lineup.

This Sharp Edge collection features four dial color options; white, blue, green, and brown. This model is in white with a striking, raised diamond textured pattern. The silver sword-like hour and minute hands are nicely complimented by the pop of blue color on the seconds hand.

There’s also a silver framed date window at 3 o’clock. The stainless steel case measures 39.3mm and sits at 11.1mm on the wrist. The timepiece is powered by Seiko’s 6R35 automatic movement, with a 70-hour power reserve and a solid 100m of water resistance.

The stainless steel bracelet is nicely done, especially the three-fold clasp and push-button. This is a clear step up from a typical stamped Seiko clasp. This watch could easily be mistaken for a much more expensive Grand Seiko. The dial is that good. 

Price: $1,000 

SEIKO PRESAGE SARX035

SEIKO PRESAGE SARX035

The Presage SARX035 features a sleek stainless steel case with polished and brushed finishes, measuring 40.5mm in diameter and 11.8mm in thickness, providing a refined and substantial presence on the wrist.

The SARX035 boasts a black dial that exudes a sense of depth and sophistication. The dial also showcases applied silver-tone hour markers and a date window at 3 o’clock. 

At the heart of the SARX035 beats Seiko’s high-quality 6R15 automatic movement, with a power reserve of approximately 50 hours and a hacking function for precise time-setting.

Completing the SARX035’s sophisticated aesthetic is a brushed stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp and a push-button release for easy and secure wearing. This is another example of a Presage timepiece that, at first glance, could be mistaken for a Grand Seiko. 

Price: $600

SEIKO PRESAGE SPB115

SEIKO PRESAGE SPB115

This is an example of a Seiko with a beautiful enamel dial. This automatic wristwatch features a stainless steel case measuring 39.9mm in diameter and 12.4mm in thickness.

The SPB115 boasts a captivating brown dial with a sunburst pattern that captures the light beautifully, creating an enthralling interplay of colors and textures. The dial showcases white hour markers and hands. The dial also features a white framed date display at the 3 o’clock position.

At the heart of the SPB115 beats Seiko’s high-quality 6R35 automatic movement, with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours and a hacking function. The watch is water resistant, with a water resistance rating of 100 meters, making it suitable for everyday wear.

Completing the SPB115’s sophisticated aesthetic is a brown horse skin leather strap with a three-fold clasp with a push-button release, providing a secure and comfortable fit. 

Price: $1,100

SEIKO PRESAGE “URUSHI” SARD011

SEIKO PRESAGE "URUSHI" SARD011

The Urushi is a piece of art on your wrist. Seiko is often known for its dive watches, but it’s a dress timepiece like this that I think sets Seiko apart from the pack in terms of quality and value. I can’t think of another major watch brand that delivers this kind of beauty and craftsmanship at these price points. 

The lacquered, Urushi dial is, of course, the star of the show. The Urushi lacquer technique is a labor-intensive and time-consuming process that involves multiple layers of hand-applied lacquer and meticulous polishing.

The painted white Roman numerals and the gold-toned hands provide a touch of class. Supposedly, there’s one artisan in Japan who makes these dials by hand, and looking at the finished product, I truly believe that. 

The black dial is so deep and layered with a wet finish that it’s hard not to stare at this artwork and forget to check the time. Yet there’s actually a lot of information on the dial, from a pointer date to a pointer day of the week to a power reserve indicator. These features give the watch an antique quality, down to the printed 31 Jewels on the dial, a practice not found on many modern timepieces. 

The polished stainless steel case measures 40.5mm and sits a touch high for a dress watch, in my opinion, at 13.2mm on the wrist. But that’s the only drawback I can see. The timepiece is powered by the 6R24 automatic movement with a power reserve of 45 hours and is water resistant to 100m.

You might expect Seiko to cut corners on the strap, but they don’t disappoint. The black, genuine alligator strap is fitted with a deployment clasp. All around, even in the details, this is a superb watch.

Price: $1,060

SEIKO PRESAGE SARX055

SEIKO PRESAGE SARX055

Some call it the Baby Snowflake for its close resemblance to its big brother, the Grand Seiko Snowflake. Thankfully, the baby can be yours for a fraction of the price. 

The titanium case is handsomely brushed and polished and measures 41mm, and sits at 11.5mm on the wrist. The watch looks refined but could also be worn with jeans. 

Some have described the sapphire crystal of the timepiece as practically invisible. The white, snowflake pattern dial features raised silver indices and sword hands. The seconds hand contrasts with a nice touch of blue. There’s a silver-lined date window at 3 o’clock.

The watch is powered by the 6R15 automatic movement with a 50-hour power reserve. It’s water resistant to 100m. The bracelet is well executed with brushed and polished links and a deployment clasp. 

Price: $900 

SEIKO KING SEIKO SJE087

SEIKO KING SEIKO SJE087

This is a limited-edition King Seiko with 1,700 of this model in circulation. The watch features a retro ’60s vibe. It boasts a pale champagne dial with gold hands and indices. The case is thin, a graceful, noteworthy feature on a dress watch.

At 12 o’clock, there’s a double textured index. There’s also a date window at 3 o’clock. The stainless steel case with super-hard coating measures 38.1mm and sits at 11.4mm on the wrist. It’s powered by the caliber 6L35 with a 45-hour power reserve and is water resistant to 50m. 

The timepiece is paired with a brown crocodile strap with a pin buckle. There’s even a retro styling of the Seiko logo on the buckle. 

Price: $3,300

SEIKO PRESAGE OCEAN TRAVELER GMT SARF013

SEIKO PRESAGE OCEAN TRAVELER GMT SARF013

The Seiko Presage Ocean Traveler GMT captures the spirit of oceanic adventurers. The SARF013 features a sleek titanium case with a polished finish, measuring 40mm in diameter and 24.6mm in thickness. The dial of the watch is a deep, textured blue color reminiscent of the vast and mysterious oceans.

The dial is adorned with white, silver-lined hands and markers, along with a power reserve scale, a pointer date at 6 o’clock, and a GMT hand, adding a functional touch to the timepiece. Powering the SARF013 is Seiko’s Caliber 6R64 automatic movement, which can be admired through the exhibition case back.

The watch also enjoys a water resistance of 100 meters, making it suitable for water-based activities. It’s paired with either a bracelet or a blue alligator leather strap with a deployment clasp and push button release. 

Price: $1,280

SEIKO PREMIER KINETIC SNP150

SEIKO PREMIER KINETIC SNP150

The Premier Kinetic is a fancy-looking dress timepiece with rose gold-toned stainless steel. The case measures 42.9mm and sits at 12mm on the wrist. The face of the watch features a white dial with alternating black Roman numerals and rose gold-toned indices. The hands are black, and there’s a date window under the XII, lined in a thick rose gold tone. 

There are a couple of subdials, including a pointer calendar. Under the hood is the 7D56 automatic. All this is paired with a handsome black calfskin leather band with a three-fold clasp and push-button release. This is a good-looking timepiece, which looks and feels like it would fetch a superior price than it does. 

Price:$700

SEIKO PRESAGE SARW021

SEIKO PRESAGE SARW021

This is another timeless selection from the Presage collection. The brushed stainless steel case measures 40.8mm and is 12.7mm thick. The classic white dial has sharp blue hands and raised silver indices and includes three-pointer subdials displaying the day, date, and power reserve level. The watch is powered by Seiko’s 6R21 automatic movement with a 45-hour power reserve and a water resistance of 100m.

All of this is matched with a stainless steel bracelet with a tri-fold push-back clasp and features hacking seconds and a screw-down crown. This timepiece straddles the line between dressy and sporty quite well. I can imagine this worn with a suit or pair of jeans. 

Price: $725

Parting Thoughts

Seiko truly has a lot to offer as a watch manufacturer. The sheer number and variety of models can be bewildering. Knowing the difference between Grand, King, Presage, and all the re-introductions can leave the average customer trying to figure out where to begin. 

But hopefully, this article has provided clarity and direction on the dress watch front. For expert help with the purchase of your next Seiko or any fine timepiece, the watch experts at Exquisite Timepieces are only a click away.

best grand seiko dive watches

Grand Seiko is a high-end watch brand famous for its accuracy, style, and fine craftsmanship. This titan of a brand was originally created to be a higher-end companion piece to the Seiko brand. Over the years, it has established a reputation as one of the most distinguished watch companies in the world. 

Everything from the silky smooth steel bracelets and ethereal dials just radiates luxury. It uses only the best components and cutting-edge technology, and each Grand Seiko watch is created in-house by expert craftsmen in Japan. Grand Seiko offers a variety of models to fit every taste, whether you’re searching for a dress watch or a sports watch. Each of these watches lasts an entire lifetime and glows just as brilliantly as the day you bought it. 

About Grand Seiko Dive Watches

Eclectic collectors looking to expand their collection beyond well-established Swiss brands should look no further than Grand Seiko. They are among the most coveted timepieces for divers on the market today. These timepieces combine the renowned brand’s high quality and precision with the durability and functionality needed to explore underwater. 

Additionally, Grand Seiko’s legendary Spring Drive mechanism guarantees unmatched accuracy even under the most difficult circumstances. Grand Seiko dive watches are a great option for individuals wanting the greatest quality, durability, and performance levels. 

History of Grand Seiko Dive Watches

Grand Seiko made its debut in 1960, primarily as an answer to the luxury Swiss watch market. At the time, Japanese watches were mostly known for their affordability and functionality. However, there was a distinct lack of anything that could be considered luxury Japanese watches. 

Grand Seiko was released with the goal of becoming the most accurate watch brand out there. Until 2017, Grand Seiko was considered another part of Seiko. However, Grand Seiko has since split off from its sister company and become its very own brand, offering stunning timepieces that will surely be the talk of the room. 

Dive watches have always been a part of the Seiko DNA, and Grand Seiko followed that with the release of its very first dive watch in 2008, the SBGA029. Before becoming its own brand, every Grand Seiko release had two labels on it.

A regular Seiko label and a Grand Seiko label on the dial. In addition to dive watches, Grand Seiko also has numerous other collections in its lineup. These collections include Masterpiece, Evolution 9, Heritage, Sport, and Elegance. 

The Best Grand Seiko Dive Watches

Grand Seiko SBGA461

Grand Seiko SBGA461

Starting off this list is the quintessential Grand Seiko. Stainless steel case construction, deep black dial, Spring Drive movement, and impeccable finishing. As a part of Grand Seiko’s Sport collection, the ruggedly handsome design and modern enhancements make this dive watch both functional and effortlessly cool. 

The power reserve indicator is a simple but extremely useful complication that does not detract at all from the functionality of the watch. The large 72-hour power reserve is more than enough for this serious dive watch. The legibility is enhanced by the Lumibrite indexes generously large hour and minute hands. Both hands are distinctly shaped and ensure the time is always clear to the wearer. 

Grand Seiko SBGH257

Grand Seiko SBGH257

Who doesn’t love a limited edition collection? They increase exclusivity and really make each piece special. This limited offering from Grand Seiko is a gorgeous, abyssal blue waffle dial dive watch that has a silky smooth bezel action, gargantuan 600m water resistance, and a lightweight titanium case and bracelet. 

The waffle pattern on the dial really brings out visual interest and draws attention to the dial. One of my favorite features is the date window at the unusual 4 o’clock position, which is angled to mimic the other indexes on the dial. The outstanding precision is due to the Caliber 9S85 hi-beat movement, a premium offering from Grand Seiko. 

Grand Seiko SBGA463

Grand Seiko SBGA463

The most stunning feature of this watch is the High-Intensity titanium case and bracelet. Grand Seiko is a pioneer in luxury, high-quality materials and uses various materials to increase the durability of its watches. One such material is High-Intensity titanium, an alloy applied to many of Grand Seiko’s titanium timepieces. 

Notably, Grand Seiko’s titanium shines brighter than any kind of stainless steel and is twice as strong. The lightweight, all-metal 44mm case is ultra comfortable and feels like a pillow on the wrist. This model is powered by the smooth Spring Drive movement and includes a power reserve indicator for easy viewing. 

Grand Seiko SBGX115

Grand Seiko SBGX115

A quartz movement from Grand Seiko is hardly the kind you would find in common everyday watches. Grand Seiko’s quartz movements are designed to be extra secure and long-lasting. Unlike many other quartz watches, a Grand Seiko 9F quartz movement can be regulated due to its high-quality construction and protective seal. This ensures accuracy over even longer periods of time. 

Through complicated mechanics, the movement is ultra-accurate, up to  +/- 10 seconds per year. The SGBX115 has a clean white dial and a large, chunky bezel. Residue and grime easily slide off the sloped edges of the case and the engineered grooves around the bezel. 

Grand Seiko SBGA391

Grand Seiko SBGA391

The Grand Seiko lineup became a lot more colorful with this incredible limited edition model. The most notable feature of this watch is, of course, the patterned aqua-green dial. This is a welcome change from the numerous black and blue dials that are extremely popular in dive watches. The color and the repeated diamond shapes remind wearers of the gentle ocean tides. 

Besides the stunning dial, the Zaratsu polishing on this limited edition watch makes it shine in the light. One thing that must be mentioned is the size. This is by no means a small watch at 44.2mm in diameter and 14mm in height. This watch demands wrist presence, and the stainless steel construction will certainly remind you of that. 

Grand Seiko SBGH291

Grand Seiko SBGH291

This Grand Seiko is simply an amazing sports watch. I love how the watch sits on the wrist without being too heavy. Like most other Grand Seikos, it is relatively large at 43mm in diameter. However, the gentle curve on the lugs and caseback makes wearing this watch a comfortable experience. 

The black ceramic bezel is hard like a diamond and will almost never scratch. Even if you have owned this watch for years, it will still look brand-new. I thoroughly enjoy the extra secure clasp, with the Grand Seiko logo deeply etched into it. The clasp is smooth, secure, and simple to operate. 

Grand Seiko SLGA00

Grand Seiko SLGA00

Grand Seiko celebrates 60 years in the watchmaking industry with this triumphant timepiece. This watch signals a new generation in the already incredible Spring Drive movement. The new Caliber 9RA5 takes what already made Grand Seiko great and makes it thinner, more resistant to magnetism, and highly shock-resistant. The thinness was achieved due to repositioning and redesigning Grand Seiko’s Magic Lever, which is what winds the mainspring in the movement. 

And, of course, the finishing on the new movement is absolutely superb. The jewels glow in the light, and the delicate finishing on the back of the movement is like a fresh morning dew. The amazing 5-day power reserve is enough to last almost a whole week of seafaring adventure. The crown is lined up with the date window at the unusual 4 o’clock position. 

Grand Seiko SLGA015

Grand Seiko SLGA015

The Evolution 9 Collection is the newest addition to Grand Seiko’s extensive lineup. Released in 2020 to celebrate Grand Seiko’s 60th anniversary, the Evolution 9 combines heritage designs with the innovations of modern watchmaking.

Most of the designs will take inspiration from a much earlier model, the 44GS from 1967. This model is made of the premium High-Intensity titanium that graces other Grand Seiko watches and has a notably grainy, sandy black dial. The numerous curves ripple like ocean waves on a cloudy day.

The bracelet has a five-link design with a new, secure clasp. Powering the watch is the new Caliber 9RA5 movement, which is more sleek and robust than earlier movements. Proudly displayed on the dial is “5 days,” which indicates the extra generous power reserve. 

Grand Seiko SBGA029 

Grand Seiko SBGA029 

This watch deserves respect as the very first Grand Seiko diver. Every watch on this list is descended from this milestone in the Grand Seiko collection. The SBGA029 is like a template for future Grand Seiko releases. This watch was released when Grand Seiko was still attached to Seiko, hence the double labels on the dial. 

Many Grand Seiko watches tend to run larger than most other dive watches. The 44mm case diameter is large, but thanks to the short, sloped lugs, wearing the watch comfortably isn’t a problem at all. This model was also the first to feature the Spring Drive movement on a dive watch, an innovation that would be seen in later models. 

Grand Seiko SBGA071

Grand Seiko SBGA071

The SBGA071 is an Asia Limited Edition, which might make it more difficult to obtain for someone outside the continent. However, anyone who makes an effort to procure one of these limited watches will be rewarded with a Grand Seiko that is visually interesting.

It’s similar to the very first Grand Seiko dive watch, except for the brilliant pop of color in the gold lettering of the Seiko and Grand Seiko logos and the blue circular pip on the seconds hand. These two pops of color contrast nicely with the deep blue, almost black dial. It’s powered by the Caliber 9R65, so you know you’re getting an incredibly accurate timepiece. 

Grand Seiko SBGX339

Grand Seiko SBGX339

Any splash of color on a Grand Seiko is worth mentioning. The SBGX339 is a colorful dive watch that has a lot of depth to it. The bright yellow chapter ring is sloped and lined with Arabic numerals. The slope gives the watch a very neat 3D effect, and it really feels like you’re looking deep inside the dial. Complementing the yellow chapter ring is a yellow seconds hand. 

The thick, bold bezel is satisfying to use and is tactile and responsive. The 43mm watch is finely brushed on the sides, as opposed to the mirror finish found in many other Grand Seiko models. The high accuracy 9F quartz movement will ensure that the time will be precise up to +/- 10 seconds per year.

Grand Seiko SBGC251

Grand Seiko SBGC251

The Grand Seiko SBGC251 is an exciting new release in the Evolution 9 series of high-end mechanical watches. The Evolution 9 collection really does take Grand Seiko to new heights. All of the expertise in pure Japanese watchmaking is on display here in this complex and bold watch. The blue GMT hand is noticeable and one of the first things your eyes will be drawn to.

The bezel is thinner than other Grand Seiko models, adding to the slim elegance of this watch. In addition to the GMT, there is a chronograph and power reserve indicator. The Caliber 9R86 is another reason why this luxury timepiece commands such a large sticker price. The beautiful finishing and amazing accuracy is the heart and soul of this fine watch. 

Grand Seiko SBGC221

Grand Seiko SBGC221

The SBGC221 is one of the most complex watches on this list. True to Grand Seiko’s mission of finding only the best materials for its pieces, this complicated watch uses a corrosion and scratch-resistant titanium and ceramic hybrid. This ultra-luxurious material makes everything about this watch highly durable and, most importantly, lightweight and comfortable. 

The dial is highly complicated, but the design never gets too busy. The abundance of complications, including the GMT, 72-hour power reserve indicator, and chronograph, is a wonder to behold. Indeed, the SBGC221 is one of the most premium offerings in the Grand Seiko lineup. Interested buyers will be paying a hefty sum for one of the best watches from Grand Seiko. 

Grand Seiko SBJ237

Grand Seiko SBJ237

What better way to end this list of fantastic Grand Seiko watches than with a GMT? Everyone loves GMT watches for their intricacies, practicality, and overall cool factor. Every true GMT watch will have a separate GMT hand and functional dial that work together to tell the time in another time zone.

The silvery white, blue, and black blend together harmoniously in this striking GMT watch, almost like a beautiful sapphire gemstone. This GMT and dive watch hybrid is the perfect mix of toughness and luxury. The titanic 20 atm water resistance is more than enough for any challenge, and the Caliber 9S86 beats razor smoothly and accurately. 

Conclusion 

Grand Seiko shows us the very best that Japanese watchmaking has to offer. People who hold a Grand Seiko in their hands know that they are holding onto something special. The attention to detail is outstanding. Every aspect of the watch is premium, high-quality, and precise.

The dive watches in the Grand Seiko lineup are made with premium materials and revolutionary technology. This extra luxury, however, does not compromise the core features of every dive watch: robustness, durability, and functionality. With their accomplishments in mind, Grand Seiko is a heavy hitter in the watch industry. 

seiko nh35 watches

Using a third-party movement is quite common in the horology world. Even the uber-famous Rolex Daytona started production in the 60s with a Zenith caliber within. Today, a few brands are making movements for other companies to use, one of the largest being Seiko. 

Based in Japan, Seiko is a leader in affordable watches and markets its own movements to other companies. Seiko also produces perhaps the most widely used caliber on the planet, the NH35. Used in everything from dive watches to military-issue tool watches, the NH35 is reliable, cost-effective, and reasonably accurate. 

About the Seiko NH35

The cal. NH35 is one of the most popular calibers on the planet, and with a price tag of around $50, it’s easy to see why. While Seiko is the main manufacturer of the movement, particular segments within the company produce this specific movement, primarily Seiko Instruments Inc. and Time Module Inc. The movement is produced in Japan and Malaysia. 

Within the Seiko family of movements, the “NH” calibers are known as “Basic Mechanical Movements”, whereas the “NE” calibers are known as the “Premium Mechanical Movements”. The NH35 is, therefore, accessible to most, but that does not mean that the self-winding movement is poorly produced.

Featuring both hand-winding and a hacking upgrade, the NH35 was a natural upgrade from the Seiko caliber NH25A. Rated at -20 / +40 seconds per day under normal conditions and beating at 21,600 bph, the movement is a solid entry-level movement. Functions include central hours, minutes, seconds, and a date feature – usually at 3 o’clock. 

History of the Seiko NH35

The initial date when production started is unclear, but records show it started between 2011 and 2012. The caliber is a natural progression from the caliber NH25A but can also be found in Seikos as the caliber 4R35. 

Compared to the NH25A, the NH35 has three more jewels which would increase its lifespan and reliability. Both are equipped with a 41-hour power reserve, but only the NH35 features hand-winding and hacking. 

The NH35 is a natural progression with more technological features but is not really more accurate than its predecessor. This is why many enthusiasts believe both options are great and that deciding between the two is a moot choice.

15 Best NH35 Watches

1. Dan Henry 1970

Dan Henry 1970

First on the list is a dive watch from Dan Henry, a small company that makes heritage and vintage-inspired watches. The 1970 Automatic Diver Compressor was produced in limited numbers; only 1970 were built. Versatility is the name of the game, and the consumer is spoilt for choices.

Two sizes are available, 40mm and 44mm, while there is also a date/no-date option as well (the 44m only comes with the date option). Some dive purists believe that if you need to know the date while diving, you’re probably screwed. 

Four colors are available as well, orange, black, white, and blue, while the 44mm is only available in grey. The color is mostly featured on the internally rotating bezel, a classic dive watch feature. With a depth rating of 200m, the 1970 is a great dive watch, and priced at only $290 is a steal if you like the vintage feel that Dan Henry provides. 

2. Unimatic U1-D

Unimatic U1-D

Another limited edition, this time from a small company called Unimatic. Limited to only 600 pieces, the watch, along with the other utilitarian watches in their lineup, are all made in Italy. With a sleek case, tight edges, and a true 40mm case size, the U1-D is very wearable compared to other dive watches

A matte brush finish on the case pairs quite nicely with a nato strap, doubling down on the utilitarian approach of Unimatic itself. A large crown that does stick out from the guards is somewhat reminiscent of the Rolex Submariner 6538, and when paired with the subtle undertones of the watch, it makes for an under-the-radar watch, which I am a big fan of. 

Unfortunately, at the time of writing this, the watch has been sold out on the site, but you’ll be sure to find one for sale on the second-hand market. 

3. Deep Blue Diver 1000 II Aqua Blue

Deep Blue Diver 1000 II Aqua Blue

This watch doesn’t have a reference, but its ‘Item Number” is listed as “DIVER40OAQUABRACELET” – which almost tells you everything you need to know already. This 40mm sleek diver has an aqua dial somewhat reminiscent of the Seiko SPB299. 

A 330m or 1000ft water resistance ensures the watch lives up to the dive watch moniker, but it also features a helium escape valve at the 10 o’clock position. Unlike some other dive watches, you have an exhibition caseback, allowing you to see the caliber NH35 in all its glory. 

For a price of $398 (currently marked down to $199.00), the watch offers great value as a tool watch. The pop of color from the dial makes it a bit more interesting than other utilitarian designs, but the technology remains true. 

4. Marathon General Purpose Mechanical (ref. WW194003BK-0101)

Marathon General Purpose Mechanical (ref. WW194003BK-0101)

Many watches have a military theme. Some even have military characteristics and complications used by officers in the field. Marathon actually has legitimate experience in the world of making military-issued watches. Based in Canada, the company is known for making robust tool watches, such as this General Purpose Mechanical or GPM. 

Built to strict military specs, the 34mm case is finished in high-impact composite fibreshell – which is not only quite light but extremely durable. For added functionality, the luminous material used is Tritium and MaraGlo™, giving both the hands and the case a bit of thickness. Usually a sore spot for watches, but with a rugged military watch, it’s quite fitting.

5. NTH Devilray Blue

NTH Devilray Blue

When looking at the NTH Devilray, it is clear the engineers had one thing in mind – create the ultimate diving watch. 500m or 1640ft of water resistance, which is more than 99.9% of us will ever need to be paired with a double-domed and anti-reflective sapphire crystal, means the watch is certainly capable from a diving perspective. 

The watch is quite large, measuring 43mm in diameter, but since the lug-to-lug is rather compact at only 46mm, the watch wears a lot smaller. The not-so-subtle use of bright colors and contrast on the dial ensures legibility is always a breeze, and when paired with the X1 Grade LumiNova, you will always be able to read the time.

6. Nodus Sector Dive

As mentioned, most of us will probably never go deeper than the deep end of a swimming pool. Watchmakers knew that, more often than not, their clients just needed a watch sturdy enough to handle a tad of depth, so the skin diver was created. The Nodus Sector Dive features all the characteristics of a classic skin diver. 

This American-made timepiece comes in at 39mm wide and only 12.5mm thick, which is relatively small compared to contemporary dive watch sizes. The watch also features the ‘Explorer Dial’ from the Crown, as the dial features 3-6-9 hour markers. 

Various dial colors are also offered, ranging from white to red (RedTide) and even a soft green (SeaFoam). It is worth noting the movement within is the cal. NH38, which is simply a no-date version of the cal. NH35.

7. Unimatic U2-FN

Unimatic U2-FN

Moving from the United States back to Europe, we meet the Unimatic U2-FN. This Italian-made field watch is designed with a utility-first approach and offers an extremely legible and no-nonsense dial. 

Finished in Black DLC, the dark tones of the case matches the dark hue of the factory strap. The case boasts a water resistance of up to 300m or 984ft, and at only 38.5mm in diameter, the watch isn’t incredibly large and will be perfect for smaller wrists. 

Unfortunately, the watch was only produced 250 times, so you won’t be able to purchase one from the Unimatic site. As luck would have it, you can still purchase this field watch with sporting cues on second-hand watch marketplaces.

8. Raven Airfield

From the field to the sky, we stumble across the Raven Airfield, an aviation-inspired wristwatch that does not boast a size larger than 45mm – rejoice! Sized appropriately at merely 40mm, the Airfield was designed to be a no-frills tool watch for you to use whilst cruising at a high altitude. 

Whether or not you will be using the watch to that extent depends entirely on you, but in a poetic sense, it’s nice to know that a watch could work in the environment it was designed for. 

The Airfield also comes in various dial configurations, namely different colored seconds hands (a subtle touch) but also different dial colors as well. You can also purchase a day-date and a no-date option powered by the cal. NH36 and cal. NH38 respectively. 

A brushed and polished case mated with a ceramic bezel insert and a three-link bracelet creates a sense that the watch is truly focused on utility above all else. An exceptional watch priced at $420. 

9. Spinnaker Fleuss

Spinnaker Fleuss

Feeling a bit bored by the finishing options of other brands? Are you looking for more than just a “pop of color” on the dial? Well, how about the Spinnaker Fleuss, a dive watch with more options than you could list on a Sunday dive?

Options include limited editions featuring half-open dials, bi-colored bezels, different dial colors, and everything in between. The watch isn’t all show and no go; the watch features a respectable 150m or 492ft water resistance with a modern 43mm case. 

Overall, the style can be described as ‘neo-vintage’, taking some inspiration from older divers and simply elevating that to fit contemporary tastes. For instance, the bezel is covered with high-resistance glass, unlike modern ceramic that perhaps doesn’t fit what some would believe to be a “true dive bezel”. 

10. Boldr Venture

Boldr Venture

Titanium is an interesting case compound. It’s lighter than steel and more durable, so this finishing material is usually reserved for high-priced pieces. Boldr has taken this lightweight titanium and designed the Venture around it. 

The Venture is a tool watch through and through. Covered with black PVD, the case is almost indestructible. The screw-down crown offers 200m or 656ft of water resistance and is located at the 4 o’clock position for increased comfort. 

You’ll also notice the dial is of the Tybe B variant. Type B displays the standard hour track on the outer edge of the dial, with a 24-hour indicator on the inner side. This was commonly used by field operators and pilots to aid in timekeeping during wartime. 

11. Zelos Swordfish 40mm SS

Zelos Swordfish 40mm SS

What makes a good dive watch? Ceramic bezel? Check. 200m of water resistance? Check. A compact size, around 40mm diameter and 46mm lug-to-lug? Check. Sapphire crystal? Check. Excellent lume? Of course, check. 

The Zelos Swordfish has all of these qualities. The Swordfish takes the spirit of a vintage dive watch and blends it with contemporary style. Larger hards for added legibility and a robust case appearance, but combined with patina-inspired lume. 

12. Bausele Field

Bausele Field

Military watches, as a theme, all have similar qualities. Robust, simplistic, and a dial that is designed for legibility. The Bausele Field watch ref. 31101 fits the moniker perfectly. A brushed metal case allows a soldier to avoid light reflection, and highly luminous hands and hour markers ensure legibility in the dark.

The watch was designed to meet the military specifications MIL-W-46374 for case construction, shape, and size. Sized at 38mm in diameter but only 45mm lug-to-lug ensures the watch will fit on most wrists, and the screw-down crown offers the watch 100m of water resistance. The movement within is the cal. NH38, a no-date version of the cal. NH35. 

Interestingly, that crown is filled with natural American soil from military forts throughout the United States. The crown cap is visible, so the wearer can see this soil. A poetic touch to a watch entirely designed to last you a lifetime, be it in the field or the office.

13. Phoibos Proteus 300M

Phoibos Proteus 300M

We’ve featured Titanium on the list, but what about Bronze? Bronze allows for patina you won’t find anywhere else, and reports claim that the patina you get on your individual watch will differ astronomically from someone else. 

Phoibos has joined this movement with the Proteus 300M. Various references are available; some even come in steel if you prefer an old-school approach. As the name suggests, the timepiece offers 300m or 984ft of water resistance with its 42mm X 49mm case. 

While the incredible lume on the dial might steal the show, upon close inspection, this robust watch has a few subtle touches. A lightning bolt for the seconds hand, a grain-finished dial, and a rather interesting company logo. Some of the bronze options were limited production models, but they certainly make for a conversation starter. 

14. Vario Empire Grey Tuxedo

Finally! A watch that wasn’t designed to push the boundaries of human exploration with you but rather to adorn your wrist at a black tie event. The name gives it away, and with an art-deco design, the watch lives up to the dress watch moniker. 

Powered by the no-date version of the cal. NH35, the cal. NH38, the timepiece is rather focused on luxury and appearance. Offered in various dial colors and strap options, there is a configuration to suit your need. 

The guilloché style center plate of the dial contrasts greatly with the black outer ring where the applied hour numerals are found. Priced around $350.00, the Tuxedo offers a lot of watch for the price. Even the hands are a design feature themselves, as they are extremely thin but also skeletonized.

15. RZE Valour 38

RZE Valour 38

We finish the list with another field watch, but one that pushes the boundaries of the design language slightly. Color options you won’t usually find in a tool watch like bright yellow or deep blue paired with a Titanium case coated in ULTRAHex. 

The coating increases the hardness of the watch quite a bit, which is exactly what you want from your tool watch. A type B dial is featured along with large hands filled with luminescence for added legibility. 

Unlike other titanium or bronze watches, the case back is also finished in lightweight titanium. This case back covers the cal. NH38, the no-date version of the cal. NH35. Sapphire crystal, 100m or 330ft of water resistance, and a 38mm case size makes this the perfect everyday watch for the working person, especially if they like a bit of color. 

Conclusion

Quite a range, huh? This journey has taken us all over the world, from Italy to Japan and then all the way to the States. The functionality and cost-effectiveness of the cal. NH35 makes it a no-brainer for most smaller watch companies, so it makes sense why it’s the most commonly used movement on the planet. 

This list of watches also showed us that the movement can be featured in petite 38mm dress watches to robust mil-spec timepieces meant to endure quite a hardship. The movement is a workhorse, and you cannot fault it for that. 

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