Category: Seiko

Seiko has a rich history spanning over a century. Throughout this time, their watches have earned a well-deserved reputation for being affordable, durable, and exceptional timepieces. As a proud owner of several Seiko watches, I can personally vouch for these qualities.

However, Seiko sometimes goes unnoticed due to its Asian manufacturing origins and affordable price range. Some individuals perceive Seiko watches as disposable timepieces that lose value once they stop functioning correctly. Nevertheless, we aim to delve into this perception and debunk any doubts about the quality of Seiko watches.

Without further delay, let’s thoroughly examine the various aspects of the Seiko brand, including its background and the quality it offers, and determine why you should seriously consider owning one of its remarkable timepieces.

Background & History of Seiko

Seiko’s history dates back to 1881 when Kintaro Hattori, a 21-year-old entrepreneur in Tokyo, started a small jewelry and watch business. This makes Seiko one of the oldest watch brands still actively manufacturing timepieces. In 1892, Kintaro Hattori established the ‘Seikosha’ factory, initially focused on producing wall clocks.

Seeking to expand the range of their production, Kintaro Hattori introduced the brand’s first pocket watch, known as “The Timekeeper,” in 1895. Taking another significant step in 1913, Seiko created the first Japanese wristwatch called “The Laurel.” The production of the first Seiko-branded wristwatches began in 1924.

A pivotal moment in Seiko’s history came in 1969 with the introduction of the world’s first quartz watch, the Seiko Quartz Astron. Boasting an impressive accuracy rating of 5 seconds per month, this groundbreaking timepiece triggered the “Quartz Crisis.” It caused a significant disruption within the mechanical watch industry and led to the decline of many Swiss watch brands.

In the subsequent decades, Seiko has remained committed to innovation, achieving several notable milestones:

• In 1986, they established the world’s first Diver’s watch capable of reaching depths of 1000m, featuring a ceramic outer case.
• Seiko was chosen as the Official Timer for the Olympic Games in 1992, a testament to their timekeeping precision and reliability.
• In 1999, they introduced the revolutionary Spring Drive Movement, combining mechanical and quartz technologies for enhanced accuracy and smooth sweeping seconds hand motion.
• Seiko’s commitment to excellence was recognized in 2014 when they won the prestigious “Petite Aiguille” prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, often referred to as the Oscar Awards of watchmaking.

These accomplishments demonstrate Seiko’s unwavering dedication to pushing boundaries and delivering exceptional timepieces.

The above details only scratch the surface of Seiko’s rich history and achievements. For a more in-depth understanding, I recommend visiting their official website, where you can explore the comprehensive timeline.

Having touched upon Seiko’s remarkable history, it’s worth emphasizing that affordability remains a defining characteristic of the brand. Even today, Seiko continues to offer timepieces that are accessible to a wide range of budgets. 

Additionally, Seiko has established various tiers within its lineup, including the Seiko 5, Seiko Presage, and Seiko Prospex collections. This diversification enables Seiko to cater to different price points, making them an excellent choice for both entry-level and avid watch collectors alike.

Are Seiko Watches Good?

Below I will outline some characteristics that distinguish Seiko watches from other Japanese and even Swiss watch brands:

Design Variety

Seiko offers an extensive range of watch designs thanks to the multitude of models and collections spanning several decades. With such a diverse selection, there is a Seiko watch to suit every individual’s taste and style. Seiko timepieces come in various shapes and sizes, offering a wide array of options.

Some collectors even specialize exclusively in Seiko watches, as the brand provides more than enough options to keep them engaged. From the iconic SKX, Tuna, Turtle, Captain Willard, Pogue, and many more, Seiko offers a rich collection of distinctive and renowned timepieces.

Excellent Affordable Timepieces

Seiko boasts an extensive collection of watches, many of which offer an exceptional cost-to-value ratio. A prime example is the Seiko 5 collection, followed by the Prospex and Presage collections. Seiko 5 timepieces can be found for as low as under $100 if you search diligently.

While the Prospex and Presage collections are priced higher, they also offer enhanced build quality. This means that Seiko provides excellent value for your money, ensuring you get a timepiece that combines affordability with impressive craftsmanship.

Durable Watches

Let’s focus on the fundamental Seiko 5 collection, which encompasses five key characteristics, one of them being water resistance. Seiko has set a requirement that their Seiko 5 watches must meet water resistance standards suitable for everyday individuals. This feature ensures that the timepiece can withstand challenging conditions, particularly when exposed to underwater atmospheric pressures.

Moreover, certain watches from Seiko’s Prospex collection exhibit even stricter tolerances, offering water resistance of up to 300m. Depending on the specific Seiko collection you choose, you can be assured of owning a resilient and robust timepiece that can endure various demanding situations.

In-House Mechanical Movements

Seiko utilizes in-house movements across their range of mechanical timepieces, from their affordable models to their high-end offerings. Among their in-house movements are the 4R36, 6R35, and 8L35 calibers, and many more.

This is truly remarkable when compared to Swiss watch brands, as Seiko possesses the technical prowess to manufacture movements for all tiers within their watch collection hierarchy. In order to acquire a Swiss or even German watch with an in-house mechanical movement, one would typically have to consider brands like Tudor or NOMOS, with starting price points of around $1,500.

Thus, Seiko’s ability to produce their own movements across their entire lineup provides exceptional value and showcases their dedication to craftsmanship and innovation.

Pop Culture Stigma

Seiko timepieces have made appearances in numerous iconic movies, adding to their allure. For example, Sigourney Weaver wore the Seiko Giugiaro in the movie “Aliens,” while Robert Redford sported the recognizable Seiko SKX009 in “All is Lost”. 

Arnold Schwarzenegger famously donned the Seiko H558 in the film “Predator,” and Martin Sheen prominently wore the Seiko 6105-8119 (known as the Captain Willard) in “Apocalypse Now.” These movie appearances have significantly influenced the public’s perception of the Seiko brand.

As a result of such influential marketing, Seiko watches have experienced increased demand, with certain models becoming more sought-after and harder to obtain than others. The power of marketing has elevated Seiko to a status that transcends popular culture and society. Even your everyday aunt or uncle is likely familiar with Seiko and may have owned one of their timepieces.

Notable Seiko Watch Collections

Here are some of the most noteworthy Seiko collections, each one featuring tons of models for you to choose from:

Seiko 5

Why is there a “5” in Seiko 5, and what does it signify? Seiko introduced this affordable collection over 50 years ago, encompassing five key features that were traditionally associated with more luxurious watches at the time. These features, presented in no particular order, include:

1. Automatic movement
2. Day-Date complication
3. Water resistance
4. Recessed crown
5. Stainless steel case and bracelet

Seiko 5 watches were designed to offer a combination of these desirable attributes, making them accessible to a wider audience without compromising on quality. The inclusion of these features has been a defining characteristic of the Seiko 5 collection, contributing to its popularity and enduring appeal.

My experience with the Seiko 5 comes in the form of the Seiko 5 SNKL23. I owned it for a brief period before passing it on to another watch collector. During my time with it, I found the black dial with multiple textures and dauphine hands to be simply stunning.

The case finishing was impressive, especially considering its affordable price, featuring a combination of brushed and polished finishes. Additionally, the exhibition case back allowed for a glimpse of the automatic movement.

As expected, the letdown of the SNKL23 watch, which is common in affordable timepieces, was the stainless steel bracelet. Watch brands often cut corners in this aspect. The bracelet had hollow end links, folded-over steel links, and a pressed steel clasp.

Nevertheless, owning the SNKL23 was an enjoyable experience, and including a Seiko 5 in one’s watch-collecting journey is worthwhile. Some popular Seiko 5 models worth mentioning are the SNZF17 (Sea Urchin), SRP series (5KX), and SNZH57 (Fifty Fathoms Homage).

In summary, Seiko 5 watches provide exceptional value for money, with prices starting as low as $100 (on the secondary market, of course). Where else can you find a watch that offers the five key features, along with original designs and a rich brand heritage? Seiko 5 truly stands out in the market.

Seiko Prospex

Prospex is simply a shortened form of “Professional Specification.” This collection represents Seiko’s professional and tool watches. According to Seiko, the Prospex line “challenges every limit, with a collection of timepieces for sports lovers and adventure seekers, whether in the water, in the sky, or on land”.  I’m sure you understand the essence of it.

The Prospex collection has seen a price increase in recent years as Seiko has elevated its positioning, and the Seiko 5 collection has expanded into the territory once occupied by Prospex. Prospex watches typically start from $400 and go higher, especially for their mechanical timepieces.

However, on the secondary market, you can find them at lower prices. Seiko has categorized the Prospex collection into Sea, Land, Speedtimer, and LX lines (which feature higher-end timepieces with Spring Drive movements). The primary focus lies within the first three categories, as they hold historical and aesthetic significance for Seiko. 

The more affordable Prospex models generally house the 4R35 or 4R36 movements, although Seiko is gradually incorporating more of the newer 6R-based movements into the collection. The 6R-based movements, such as the 6R35, offer impressive features like a 70-hour power reserve while maintaining a frequency of 21,600 beats per hour.

Out of all the Seiko collections listed, I have personally owned the most watches from the Seiko Prospex collection, as I am particularly fond of tool watches. I still own the Seiko Alpinist SPB209 and the Seiko “Baby Tuna” SRP637, both designed for specific uses for mountaineering and diving. Additionally, I plan to wear my Seiko Alpinist when I visit Japan in the near future.

Some notable watches from the Prospex collection include the Seiko Orange Monster SRP309, the Seiko Turtle SRPE03, the Seiko Alpinist SPB121, and the Seiko Marine Master SLA0 models.

Seiko Presage

Seiko describes their Presage Collection as a “combination of Japanese aesthetic sense, traditional craftsmanship, and Seiko’s mechanical watchmaking skills, resulting in an original collection that offers Japanese beauty, quality, and long-lasting performance”.

In short, Presage consists of dress watches that showcase Seiko’s distinct style and exquisite craftsmanship. The Seiko Presage collection is continuously expanding, leading to subdivisions within the collection. These include the Craftsmanship Series, Sharp Edged Series, Cocktail Time, Style 60’s, and Inspired by Japanese Gardens.

Personally, I have a preference for the Craftsmanship and Sharp Edged Series, as these collections are crafted to a higher standard. They often feature sapphire crystals and employ multiple finishing techniques on the watch cases. These timepieces are aesthetically pleasing and feel more valuable than their retail prices suggest, offering great value for money.

I previously owned the Presage SPB047J1/SARX049 from the Craftsmanship Series, which features a white enamel dial, blued hands, and Roman numerals on the dial. 

My only criticism of this watch (and most Presage watches) is that they tend to be slightly thick for dress timepieces. Dress watches are typically slim to fit comfortably under a shirt cuff. Although not excessively thick, my Seiko Presage would barely fit under most cuffs, but the 12.4mm thickness became apparent when viewed from the side profile.

Presage timepieces are generally priced at $400 and above. If Seiko continues to incorporate sapphire crystals, timeless designs, and neutral case sizes (under 42mm), these watches are excellent additions to any collection.

Some iconic models from the Presage collection include the Urushi dial Seiko SARW013, the limited edition blue enamel dial Seiko SPB069 and the Seiko Cocktail SRPB43J1.

Seiko Astron

Out of all the Seiko collections listed here, the Astron is the least familiar to me due to my preference for mechanical movement timepieces. However, this collection has been in existence since December 25, 1969. As mentioned earlier, the Astron’s introduction was a significant milestone in quartz technology for watches and had a profound impact on timekeeping. 

In the current iterations of the Astron, the timepieces incorporate solar and GPS technology. This combination of technologies proves to be incredibly useful. Seiko explains that “the Astron adjusts to your time zone at the touch of a button and, by harnessing energy from light alone, it never requires a battery change”.

Seiko designed the Astron with technological accuracy in mind. The GPS function in these timepieces automatically sets the time once a day, ensuring exceptional timekeeping precision. Additionally, the Astron is solar-powered, meaning that exposure to sunlight is sufficient to keep the watches charged and running.

Furthermore, a remarkable feature of the Astron is its ability to recognize all time zones on Earth through GPS technology. This makes the Astron an ideal watch for travelers.

In terms of pricing, the Astron belongs to the more premium range of Seiko collections, with its superior build quality and innovative technology. The retail price for Astron timepieces starts at $1,600. Some notable models from the Astron collection include the SSH100 series and the octagonal-shaped SBXY061.

King Seiko

King Seiko is the most high-end collection of mechanical timepieces from Seiko, as listed here (excluding Grand Seiko and Credor). According to Seiko, “King Seiko is a mechanical watch brand that offers beautifully designed and finished timepieces with high accuracy.”

Seiko recently reintroduced the King Seiko collection in 2021. Initially, King Seiko models were equipped with 6R movements, which received criticism due to the higher price point of King Seiko watches. To address these concerns, Seiko now offers high-end 6L movements (based on Grand Seiko Calibres) in King Seiko models.

The King Seiko collection pays tribute to Seiko’s heritage and embraces classic and elegant design elements. While the dials of King Seiko watches maintain a basic design, the highlight lies in the Zaratsu-like polished finish on the watch cases. 

This meticulous finishing technique creates multiple polished facets that shimmer when light hits them. Also, the hour and minute hands are finished to a high standard, creating beautiful facets and sharp edges. King Seiko timepieces evoke a sense of nostalgia, reminiscent of what one might envision their grandfather wearing back in the day.

One criticism regarding the pricing of King Seiko timepieces is that many of them have a retail price above $2,500. At that price point, one is in close proximity to Grand Seiko Quartz timepieces, which offer a higher level of craftsmanship.

Although King Seiko is a relatively recent reintroduction from Seiko, notable modern timepieces in their collection include the SJE087 (a recreation of the King Seiko KSK) and the SPB291 (Seiko Boutique Edition with violet dial).

Do Seiko Watches Hold Their Value?

First and foremost, it’s important to note that watches should not be considered traditional investments like stocks or bonds. They are meant to be enjoyed and experienced. While Seiko watches are not investments in the conventional sense, there are certain models that have increased in value and become highly sought after. 

These are primarily limited edition timepieces, such as the Zimbe editions and vintage Seiko watches. The growing community of Seiko watch collectors and the brand’s rising popularity have contributed to the demand and collectability of these pieces.

I have personally owned several Seiko watches, and one that I regret selling is the Seiko Monster V2 (Made in Japan model). Since its discontinuation, prices for this watch have skyrocketed in the secondary market. The iconic orange dial color and the shark teeth-like hour markers make the Seiko Monster V2 highly sought after.

Another Seiko timepiece that increased in value is the Seiko 5 SNKL23, which Hodinkee described as “A Seventy-Five Dollar Watch That Looks Like A Million Bucks.” I sold it and made a small profit. These examples serve to illustrate that Seiko watches can retain value and potentially be seen as investments. However, it’s important to prioritize the enjoyment of owning watches and not solely focus on their investment potential.

Should You Buy a Seiko Watch?

My answer is a resounding “YES!” I have been collecting watches since 2014. In the famous words of Drake, I “started from the bottom” with Seiko and Orient timepieces. Seiko should unquestionably be a part of every collector’s watch collection and journey. 

It allows collectors to develop a deeper appreciation for their collection and the quality of timepieces available at various price points. Seiko can be seen as a rite of passage for collectors as they curate their collections and evolve over time.

Conclusion

In summary, Seiko watches are excellent due to their affordability, durability, and iconic status in popular culture. Having owned several Seiko watches myself, including the more budget-friendly models like the Monster, Baby Tuna, and Alpinist collections, I can confidently say that they make fantastic daily wear timepieces. 

However, it is important to address the perception that Seiko watches are solely inexpensive and lacking in technical sophistication. While Seiko does offer affordable options, their range also includes in-house movements, a diverse selection of timepieces, and impressive durability. These factors, coupled with their iconic designs, make Seiko watches a valuable addition to any collection. 

Therefore, watch collectors should wholeheartedly embrace and explore the Seiko brand, as it serves as an ideal starting point for anyone entering the world of watch collecting.

Seiko. We all know the Beast from the East and their ability to create some of the most respected and loved divers on the market, all at a great price. The Pepsi color scheme might have started with Rolex but has been adopted by various companies across the globe, including Seiko. Using this bi-color scheme along the bezel evokes a feeling of sportiness, but also vintage warmth due to the numerous old GMT Master Pepsi watches you’ve seen on Instagram. 

In case you don’t have around $20,000 to spend on a watch and you still want the Pepsi scheme, there might just be a Seiko to fit your wrist – literally. 

About Seiko Pepsi Diver Watches

Seiko didn’t originate as a watchmaking company but as a shop selling and repairing clocks in central Tokyo. After securing a factory in Tokyo, entrepreneur Kinato Hattori managed to create his first clock in 1892. 

The Seikosha factory (Seiko means “exquisite” or “success”) continued producing clocks for twenty-one years before veering into the world of pocket watches. In 1913, Seiko produced its first wristwatch called ‘The Laurel’, which also happened to be the first wristwatch made in Japan. 

The first dive watch made by Seiko saw daylight in 1965. A mechanical watch offering 150m of water resistance with extreme legibility and durability. In fact, the watch ended up being used in Antarctic explorations during the 60s. And since then, Seiko has been one of the leading innovators of dive watches. 

Should You Buy A Seiko Pepsi Diver Watch?

Yes! Absolutely! 

Well, if you’re not as impulsive as me, let me throw some facts at you. First and foremost, Seiko is one of the most cost-effective ways to get an automatic Pepsi watch. What’s more, you won’t be getting a timepiece that’s low quality. Hop on over to any SKX forum, and you’ll be met with thousands of pleased owners. 

One thing to note is that some of the older Seiko models do tend to be on the larger side. While this isn’t a cause of concern for most of us, Seiko has listened to its fans and slimmed down its contemporary offerings. 

Otherwise, if you like the design and can afford it, you cannot go wrong. It’s not a GMT-Master II Pepsi, but then again, you shouldn’t buy a Pepsi Seiko expecting that. It’s its own thing and should be judged appropriately. 

The Best Seiko Pepsi Divers You Can Buy

1. Seiko SKX009

In case you’re new to watches, the SKX is one of the most iconic watches on the planet. The SKX is no longer being produced, and unfortunately, the SKX prices have soared online. 

The SKX series was loosely based on the ref. 7002 and released in 1996. The SKX009 offers the wearer a 42mm steel case matched with the iconic red and blue bezel color combo. The 200m water resistance, impressive ISO 6425 certification, and in-house 7S26 movement create one of the best first watches you can get your hands on – or could’ve. 

As mentioned, the SKX range has been discontinued, and prices have been increasing steadily over the years. The matte blue-dialed Pepsi diver has become iconic over the years, but, unfortunately, its fame has made it less accessible to some of us. 

2. Seiko “Twilight Blue” SPB097

If you want something more contemporary compared to the SKX, perhaps this ref. SPB097 with a gorgeous light blue (or ‘Twilight Blue’) dial is the one for you. Sporting a 44mm polished steel case with a matching three-link bracelet. For improved wearability, the crown has been moved to the four o’clock position, similar to the SKX. 

The automatic 6R15 caliber powers the diver with a 50-hour power reserve and an accuracy of +25 to -15 seconds per day. The SPB097 dial layout keeps things classic, with a simple date aperture at 3 o’clock. The main attraction, of course, is the blue dial. The color works brilliantly with the Pepsi color combo on the bezel. Finishing things off with a 200m water resistance rating, the diver is a good option, even at the higher price of $1,150. 

3. Seiko “Sumo” SPB181

The ‘Sumo’ has been a beloved model since its introduction in 2007 and is called the ‘Sumo’ due to various design features like the large rounded case. The ref. SPB181 is part of the third generation and sports a 45mm polished steel case along with a matching three-link bracelet. 

45mm might seem extremely large; however, thanks to the snug 52.6mm lug-to-lug, it wears slightly smaller. Also, the crown has been moved to the 4 o’clock position to allow for better wearability. 

A black dial is matched with the recognizable Pepsi bezel, which is graded to 60 minutes, so you can use it to time your dives or how long your boss talks about his new GT3 RS. The trustworthy 6R35 caliber offers great timekeeping and 70 hours of power reserve. 

4. Seiko SSC795

Someone once told me, “If you need to know the date while diving, you’re probably screwed”. The ref. SSC795 offers even more utility than just a date function with the addition of a 60-minute chronograph. What’s more, it’s a solar-powered watch.  

The solar caliber V192 allows the watch to work without you ever worrying about a power reserve or battery life. The 6 o’clock subregister displays a power reserve rated at 6 months when fully charged. But fear not; the screw-down crown does allow for 200m of water resistance, so you’ll still be able to go diving (or desk diving). 

This diver is relatively robust, 44.5m in diameter and 13.7mm thick, but the unidirectional Pepsi dive bezel does take up quite a lot of the real estate. This might be an excellent offering for those who are actually looking to go diving and need the ability to time two different events. 

5. Seiko “Turtle” SRPE99

“Alright, but I’m not going diving, I just want the look”. 

Perfectly understandable, and for you, a Pepsi ‘Turtle’ would be a great fit. Not the real nomenclature used by Seiko, but rather a nickname from the fans referring to the turtleback shape of the case. 

The case is sizable at 45mm but wears more like 44mm due to the smaller lug-to-lug profile. To increase wearability, the crown has been moved to the 4 o’clock position on account of the odd case shape. 

Behind the Hardlex crystal sits a blue dial that matches the blue of the Pepsi bezel. The large applied hour markers and hands are filled with LumiBrite for those late nights at the office (or pool). Of course, the automatic 4R36 caliber allows for a smooth second hand whilst also displaying the day and date. 

6. Seiko SNE591

If the turtle shape isn’t likely to make an appearance in your watch box, perhaps something more classic like the ref. SNE591. Priced at just below $1,000 for a wearable and highly polished case with a reliable solar movement – not bad. 

The black dial is accentuated by large hour markers and hands as is traditional with Seiko divers but with the addition of a subtle date aperture at the 3 o’clock position. The Pepsi dial fits beautifully and is somewhat reminiscent of the SKX from years ago. 

7. Seiko “Samurai” SRPF09 

The ‘’Samurai’’ SRPF09 offers extremely great value, priced at $550 for one really attractive timepiece. Working from the inside out, we have the reliable 4R35 caliber taking care of time, offering 41 hours of power reserve as well as a date display. 

Moving onto the gem of the watch is the black dial with a gorgeous wave-like pattern. The minute hand is lined with red for a touch of sportiness in case the Pepsi bezel scheme wasn’t enough for you. 

A 43.8mm brushed steel case is matched with a screw-down crown with added knurling in case your immediate area becomes slippery. Matched with a steel three-link bracelet with a three-fold clasp. 

Another feature the keen-eyed viewer might have noticed is the ‘PADI’ scripture on the dial. This is in reference to the Professional Association of Diving Instructors, the world’s leading scuba diving training organization. Seiko has an official partnership with PADI. 

8. Seiko 5 SRPD53

We mentioned the SKX multiple times already, and upon its discontinuation, fans were, predictably, distraught. Seiko hit back with the ‘5’ series, an affordable range of dive or tool watches that’ll look at home on the wrist of a teenager or seasoned diver who needs a beater. 

The ref. SRPD53 is priced at $325 for a reliable and trustworthy automatic watch, a deal if I ever saw one. The blue on the dial perfectly matches the blue on the Pepsi bezel identically, and the reliable 4R36 caliber takes care of timekeeping duties within.  Overall, a great overall package at a price point of entry that’s not prohibited to most. 

9. Seiko “Arnie” Pepsi SNJ027P1

What’s 40 + 40? If you answered 100 you’re most like a gym bro. In case you are (or aren’t), you might be interested in a watch worn by the Terminator himself – the “Arnie” ref. SNJ027P1. The original model was worn by Arnold Schwarzenegger in Commando (1985) and Predator (1987) and has been a fan favorite since. 

The contemporary ref. SNJ027P1 is handsomely finished and priced at $500 and features the much beloved Pepsi bezel. As with other “Arnie’s”, the watch is large, 47.8mm in diameter, and 50.5mm lug-to-lug. Despite this, the watch is quite light at only 114g, thanks to the not-so-subtle use of rubber around the steel inner case. 

The movement within is the solar H851 caliber and offers quite a few features, including an alarm function, a 1/100-second chronograph, a calendar display on the digital register, and in case you need to find the choppa in the dark, a LED light as well. 

10. Seiko SSC783

Rounding off the list, we have another robust chronograph sized at 43.5mm. The ref. SSC783 is presented with a blue dial and the all-famous Pepsi bezel scheme with a 60-minute grading. Large and full-bodied screw-down crowns allow for 200m of water resistance and, according to the Seiko website, are also good “for air diving”. 

The watch is powered by light thanks to the solar V175 caliber, granting the timepiece a theoretical power reserve of 6 months. The movement also displays various complications, including a chronograph, a 24-hour display, and a date function between the 4 and 5 o’clock position. 

Complimenting the steel case is a matching steel bracelet with brushed end links and polished center links, creating a nice dimension and luxurious touch. 

Conclusion

Quite a few options, right? Well, rather too many than too few, I always say. There is no doubt that the Pepsi scheme will keep on living on the bezels of watches ranging from luxurious options to more affordable Seiko’s seen in this list. 

With a variety of sizes, configurations, and dial colors, there is a Seiko Pepsi Diver for all of us. Whether you’re looking to go find Nemo or find your papers in your office drawer, have a look at the offering and just make sure to check the sizes, they tend to sneak up on ‘ya. 

To many contemporary collectors, Seiko’s fame rides mostly on their development of reliable dive watches. Ranging from affordable and utility-focused executions to high-end masterclasses in case finishing and movement technology that is some of the best in modern watchmaking, Seiko has released a dive watch that will please almost every collector. 

Within groups of Seiko enthusiasts, many models have been given affectionate nicknames, often referencing their appearance. One famous dive watch has risen to the status of cult favorite, the Seiko “Captain Willard.” The nickname does not stem from the design of the model but from its history and involvement in an iconic film, Apocalypse. 

History of Seiko Dive Watches

The first Seiko dive watch was the reference 6217, most commonly referred to as the 62MAS for Model Automatic Selfdater. The 62MAS was produced from 1965 to 1968, featured 150 meters of water resistance, and had the automatic calibre 6217 inside, with 17 jewels and an 18,000 bph beat rate. The two versions were designated the 6217-8000 and 6217-8001, with the latter receiving a larger crown design.

About the Seiko 6105 “Captain Willard”

The famed “Captain Willard” reference 6105 was produced from 1968 to 1977, meaning this iconic reference was only the second production dive watch produced by Seiko. Still water resistant to 150 meters, an improvement was made to the automatic movement, including a higher 21,600 bph beat rate.

Two references were produced, the 6105A, which included a non-hacking movement, and the 6105B, which could be hacked for accurate setting. Neither model included the ability to be hand wound. Also of note is that neither of these models featured clicking, uni-directional bezels. They were only friction-fitted bi-directional bezels.

The black bezel features markings going all the way around instead of hash marks for only the last 15 minutes, as commonly seen on other divers. It was not until the second generation of the reference 7002, which was in production from 1988 to 1996, that Seiko would include a spring-loaded uni-directional bezel seen on modern divers today.

When Apocalypse Now was released in 1979, the character Captain Willard, played by Martin Sheen, was wearing a Seiko reference 6105. Eagle-eyed Seiko enthusiasts noted the watch and thus nicknamed the timepiece the “Captain Willard.”

Seiko Ref. 6105 “Captain Willard” Specifications

The case of the Seiko 6105 “Captain Willard” is very similar to the Seiko “Turtle” case we know today. The asymmetrical cushion case measures 44mm wide without the crown, and 47.5mm lug-to-lug, with a 19mm lug width. The case asymmetry is due to the design of the crown guard, protecting the locking crown from hard knocks. 

While the case width seems quite large, the compact lug-to-lug keeps the watch wearable despite the tool-oriented size. This allows the watch to be large and easy to read while still easy to wear for a large variety of wrist sizes. The Seiko Hardlex crystal had anti-reflective characteristics, ensuring legibility in a variety of environments and also providing shatter resistance that sapphire does not. 

The dial of the Seiko reference 6105 “Captain Willard” is black, with square and rectangular indices. The twelve o’clock marker is doubled and comes to a point at the bottom. The six and 9 o’clock markers are longer rectangles, with the remaining markers being smaller squared-shaped indices. 

The hour and minute hands are rectangular in shape, with a shovel-shaped seconds hand, that mimics the 12 o’clock marker. The indices and hands are all lumed, allowing for low light reading. Additionally, there is a framed date window with a white disk and black print at three o’clock.

The reference 6105 original came with a black, textured rubber strap. Compared to many modern rubber straps, these were hard and brittle. They were pretty durable, but they often lived hard lives, making finding an original very difficult indeed.

If you are searching for a strap for the original look, many period-correct-looking straps on the market provide modern comfort and wearability. The Seiko 6105 retailed for $95 back in 1968, which is the equivalent of $828 as of June 2023. 

Modern Seiko “Captain Willard” Watches

With the legacy of the reference 6105, Seiko has iterated on the iconic watch, releasing a variety of modern references that pay homage to the original while making changes to provide a broader range of options to collectors.

Seiko SPB151 & SPB153

These two references harken to the 6105 “Captain Willard” in their case shape and dial design. The SPB151 brings back the iconic black dial but now offers a factory steel bracelet. The SPB153 comes with a green dial and bezel with a black rubber strap. Both references are smaller than the 6105, measuring 42.7mm wide, 46.6mm lug-to-lug, 13.2mm thick, and 20mm lug width. 

Both steel watches have a super hard surface coating and are rated to 200 meters of water resistance with a screw case-back and screw-down crown. Inside is the 6R35 movement, offering 70 hours of power reserve, with a stated accuracy of +25 to -15 seconds a day. The movement has 24 jewels, hacking seconds, and a date display. 

The dials are covered by a curved sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective surface coating. The bracelet has a three-fold clasp with a lock, push button release, and dive extension. The rubber strap uses a conventional pin buckle to secure the watch to the wrist. The bezel is a unidirectional ratcheting type with similar markings to the 6105. 

These two references may be the closest to the original intention of reference 6105, “Captain Willard.” While many changes have been made, they improve the durability and wearability of the watch. The SPB151 retails for $1300, and the SPB153 retails for $1100. While a bit more than the original 6105 when adjusted for inflation, the modern upgrades should make the increase in price worthwhile. 

Seiko SPB237

If you like the idea of the SPB151 or SPB153 but want more of the vintage aesthetic, you might have if you found an original reference 6105, “Captain Willard,” the SPB237 is worth considering.

Featuring the same case and movement as the SPB151, the SPB237 features a black bezel with faded markers and a textured grey dial with faux vintage lume that results in an overall aged look. To continue with the previous military-issued vibe of this watch, it is fitted with an olive green nylon strap.

Retailing at $1300, it is the same price as the SPB151 on a bracelet. While you may not get the value of the metal bracelet, if this is the style you’re after, the premium will be worth the extra charm. 

Seiko SLA033

With a price tag of $4250 and as a limited edition 2500 pieces, the SLA033 is less of a direct modern version of the reference 6105 and more of a love letter to the original “Captain Willard,” making it up in the best of what Seiko has to offer. 

The stainless steel case measures 45mm wide, 49.7mm lug-to-lug, 13mm thick, and has 19mm lugs, very close to the original. Improvements are made with the 200 meters of water resistance. The case has a super hard coating but goes through the same Zaratsu polishing technique on the case and bezel as used on Grand Seiko and Credor watches. 

The watch is hand-assembled in the same Shizukuishi studio as Seiko’s high-end brands, meaning the attention to detail with this reference is up there with the best companies in watches. 

The black dial is covered by a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inner surface, and there is a LumiBrite lume on the hands and indices. The bezel is also stainless steel, making it more durable and premium than the original aluminum inserts.

The 8L35 movement offers a 50-hour power reserve, 26 jewels, a hacking seconds hand, and date function, and is rated to +15/-10 seconds a day. The 8L series movements are also finished to a higher standard than the 6L movements seen in the SPB151. 

The rubber strap is also similar to the original but made with modern comfort in mind. The watch is secured on the wrist with a stainless steel pin buckle. 

The SLA033 is very much for those that love the style of the original reference 6105 “Captain Willard,” but demand to have the best watch possible. The SLA033 is Seiko’s take on a premium and modern “Captain Willard.”

Conclusion

With many fans of the iconic movie and Seiko building their reputation for making reliable watches, it is not surprising that the reference 6105 “Captain Willard ” has cultivated the fan base that it has over the years. Seiko’s unique designs separate them from other big brands, making them standouts in an overcrowded market of conventional dive watches. 

Whether you are a fan of Apocalypse Now, in need of a trusted diver, or simply appreciate Seiko’s designs and build quality, any reference from an original 6105 to the luxurious SLA033 will likely serve any enthusiastic collector well. 

Monster, Turtle, Tuna, Sumo, Samurai, Arnie…all of these are popular nicknames attributed to Seiko watches and are a testament to just how much the Japanese Giant Watchmaker has a strong cultural presence. But Shogun? That’s one we haven’t heard of recently.

Left to obscurity and sometimes the domestic market, the Seiko Shogun has been walking in the shadow of other successful dive watches from the brand’s vast portfolio since its first appearance in 2008.

We all know that the aliases proliferating online for Seiko watches all have deeper meanings, and Shogun is not without significance either. Japanese for “military ruler”, the nickname Shogun was bestowed upon the robust diver by Seiko’s fanbase to echo the imposing presence and dominating spirit of the watch.

From the history and origin of the Seiko Shogun all the way to the iconic generations that followed its release, here is an ultimate guide to one of the most ultra-robust and accessible divers of all time.

About Seiko Dive Watches

Seiko is a brand that is respected for its commitment to producing some of the best entry-level divers in the market that has charmed collectors for decades. The story of Seiko’s diver’s line of watches can be traced to the 1960s with the Tokyo Olympics.

There was a need to produce a high-performing timepiece to help the Japanese watchmaker compete with the Swiss brands hence the launch of the first dive watch from Seiko, the 6217 (62MAS), in 1965. It doubled as the first Japanese dive watch ever with a 150-meter water resistance rating. 

Before this launch, Seiko had introduced a series of pre-divers, such as a few in the Seiko Sportsmatic SilverWave collection, with 50 and 30-meter water resistance. The 62MAS, however, is recognized as the brand’s signature entry into the realm of true divers.

The first version had a small crown with reference 6217-8000 and a short production span of only 90 days. An improved version (Ref. 6217-8001) with a larger crown was released the same year. 

The watch featured all the necessary dive watch elements, including luminous hands and markers, a bi-directional rotating bezel, domed plexiglass, a date window, and a low-beat automatic movement ticking at 18,000bph.

It quickly gained popularity and was a good competitor in the dive watch market until 1967, when the 6215-8000 came on board. It was the brand’s first 300-meter professional model with a Hardlex crystal and a screw-down crown.

A year later, the 6105 model, a hotly sought-after iteration, followed. The 6105-8110, or Captain Willard, is famously worn by Martin Sheen in “Apocalypse Now”. It introduced the cushion case shape, which appears to be square with rounded sides and can be seen in the SRP collection today. 

Research and development continued as the years went by, and many iconic divers with a cult following were released. Seiko divers hold a special place in the hearts of many watch enthusiasts and continue to offer excellent performance and durability at accessible price points.

History & Origin of The Seiko “Shogun”

Immediately after its debut in 2008, the Seiko “Shogun”, officially the Ref. SBDC007, attained legendary status in the Horological sphere. The history of the iconic dive watch is themed around community involvement and a display of exceptional craftsmanship from Seiko. 

The nickname was bestowed upon the divers’ from an adoring international public. It began with the watch’s description as a “full battle armor” with “crisp lines” that evoked imagery of a warrior under attack. 

The trend continued, and like a pop out of the woodwork, Shogun was embraced by Seiko’s fanbase because of the imposing presence of the timepiece due to the armor-like elements of the case. The nickname quickly spread and became deeply ingrained in the watch’s identity, representing the dive watch’s comfort, character, value, and charm.

The Shogun is presented in a 44mm titanium case which, although lighter than steel, is highly capable of withstanding an impact without distortion. 

Coming from the Seiko Prospex line, the watch is powered by the caliber 6R15 movement, which guarantees accurate timekeeping and boasts a 50-hour power reserve with hacking and manual winding functions.

The Story of the Seiko Shogun attests to the commitment and passion of a caring community. Its alluring design, combined with excellence, undoubtedly guaranteed it a spot in watchmaking history. 

The deeper we uncover the Seiko Shogun, the more we face outstanding testaments of unique features and enduring appeal. With all these in perspective, there’s no argument that the Seiko Shogun is an iconic timepiece with a track record of excellence.

Seiko “Shogun” First Generation

The first generation of the Seiko Shogun was released in 2008. The SBDC007, along with its orange variant SBDC009 were the two dive watches to first appear in Seiko’s catalog. Let’s take a closer look at the SBDC007.

The Case & Bracelet

The case of the SBDC007 had large dimensions. It measured 44mm in diameter (without the crown) and was 13.3mm thick, with a lug-to-lug distance of 50.75mm. Titanium was used for both the case and the bracelet, making the watch lightweight and providing a high level of resistance to corrosion and outstanding durability. 

The classic elements defining the Shogun’s distinctive feature were first evident in the case of the SBDC007, as it featured a muscular angularity with razor-sharp transitions. 

The sharp dynamism of the watch can be noticed in crown protection, robust shoulders, angled inner lugs, deeply notched bezel, and flowing bevel along the circumference of the case that results in four flawless angles where the steeply angled lug descends.  

The case is brushed on top while the sides are polished, and the screw-down crown is signed with a simple S. The screw-in case back is also polished and has a few specs engraved in it as well as the Seiko Divers Tsunami logo.

The titanium bracelet features a three-fold clasp with a secure lock, a diver’s extension, and a push-button release.

The Dial

The dial of the SBDC007 is presented in black with applied dot markers. The black surface is matte-finished, making the applied hour markers stand out all the more elegantly. At 12 o’clock, you will notice the usual inverted triangle or arrow with a line in the middle.

At 6 o’clock, there’s an italicized “Automatic” inscription, followed by “SCUBA” and then “200m” underneath it, keeping the symmetry quite balanced. Again the 6 and 9 o’clock markers are presented in sword-tip shapes that match the minute hand, while the hour hand is a reflection of the 12 o’clock marker. 

There’s a neat date window at 3 o’clock and both hands and indices have been filled with Seiko’s proprietary Lumi Brite for excellent legibility in low-light conditions. The unidirectional bezel is executed in titanium and is a bit aggressive, with sharp sand-blasted knurling that gives it exceptional grip capabilities.

Movement

Under the hood of the SBDC007 is Seiko’s in-house 6R15 movement. The movement, which is just a step below most of the mainstream “high-beat” movements from Seiko, was produced in 2005. It is an upgrade from its predecessor, the 7S26, as it adds the hand winding and hacking mechanism to it. 

It operates with 23 jewels and beats at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, keeping the second’s hand sweeping gracefully across the dial. It provides a power reserve of approximately 50 hours and is relatively accurate at +25/-15 seconds per day. The caliber 6R15 is a premium workforce and was made popular by Seiko’s SARB series, Seiko’s “Sumo”, “Alpinist”, and “62MAS Re-edition” watches.

Water Resistance

The SBDC007 is water resistant to 200 meters or 660 feet, making it a proper dive tool. This means it can be used for scuba diving and will comfortably keep accurate time when worn for other recreational water sports.

Other Models Of The First Generation

The other models of the first generation include the SBDC009 and SBDC029 and two limited editions, SPB057 and SPB099.

While the SBDC007 was popularly termed the “Black Shogun,” with its sleek and timeless design, the SBDC009 was referred to as the “Orange Shogun” because its vibrant color commanded a bold statement.

Moreover, due to Seiko’s commitment to continual innovation, loyalists eagerly awaited subsequent iterations. So, in 2015, Seiko ignited the passion of its dedicated fan base by introducing the Black Shogun Prospex (ref: SBDC029) to a zealous group of brand loyalists. 

The SBDC029 was pretty much a relaunch of the SBDC007 with little changes on the dial. Compared to the SBDC007, the dial of the SBDC029 had different dial inscriptions. It featured the Prospex “X” logo in addition to the word “Automatic”, but this time, all capitalized. 

Beneath that, you’ll see “DIVER’S 200m” neatly spelled out. Recall that the SBDC007 had an italicized “Automatic” inscription with the word “SCUBA” (not Diver’s) and then “200m” underneath it.

To cater to the desires of watch collectors, Seiko introduced limited editions of the Shogun designed exclusively for Thailand. Some of these editions were the Zimbe Shogun (ref: SPB057) and the Zimbe Red Shogun (ref: SPB099), released in 2017 and 2019, respectively.

Zimbe is a word coined from the Japanese name “Jinbe Zame”, meaning “whale shark”. The movement, case material, and layout of the dial are the same, but again, there are a few tweaks. 

The dials have a graduating scheme, and the words ‘Automatic’ at 6 o’clock have been replaced with “Limited Edition”. The SPB057J and SPB099 also feature sapphire crystals with anti-reflective coating, as well as cyclops over the date window at 3 o’clock.

Seiko “Shogun” Second Generation

The second generation of the Seiko Shogun was launched in 2020 under the reference numbers SPB191J1 and SPB189J1. The mission of this launch was to replace its predecessor with enhanced reliability and functionality, so the main upgrade is more technical than visual. 

That said, the Seiko Prospex Shogun SPB191J1 and SPB189J1 watches retain the core personality of the SBDC007 while incorporating some of the brand’s newest materials and technologies.

For dimensions, they measure 43.5mm in diameter (so still large yet able to sit comfortably), 51mm from lug to lug, and 13.3mm in thickness. The titanium case has the same angular lugs and strong shoulders with sharp crown protections for the screw-down crown. 

The case is further finished with Seiko’s super-hard coating for additional robustness. The watches still deliver all the elements of the Shogun we have come to love, such as remarkable legibility and a 200-meter water resistance rating.

Both feature a sharp-toothed unidirectional bezel like that of their predecessors with a titanium insert. The bezel of the Shogun SPB191J1 is two-toned and presented in black and anthracite, while the SPB189J1 variant has a distinctive black and bronze layout. 

Unlike the first Shogun generation, the Prospex Shogun SPB191J1 and SPB189J1 models have an upgraded sapphire crystal, which has a better scratch resistance than the Hardlex crystal found in the first generation.

The dials of the second generation also appear smoother and more rounded, resembling those on the Seiko Monster, and boast elegant triangle-shaped markers (no dots this time around) with more rounded hands.

We highlighted earlier that the main difference is more technical, which is evident in the movement mechanism. The second generation features the updated 6R35 caliber with 24 jewels and an impressive 70-hour power reserve. In contrast, the first generation uses 6R15 caliber with 23 jewels and a 50-hour power reserve. 

While both movements offer hacking functionality and manual winding, the major improvement can be seen in the power reserve as the 6R35 provides 20 hours more than the 6R15.

Ultimately, the second-generation Shogun watches stand out in more ways than one. The various tweaks on the dial enhance legibility, while the improved power reserve makes it a better choice for watch enthusiasts.

Seiko “Shogun” vs Other Seiko Dive Watches

Seiko has been at the forefront of new technologies and designs since Kintarō Hattori released the brand’s first pocket watch, the Seikosha Timekeeper, in 1895.

The Seiko Shogun and other Seiko dive watches adhere to the brand’s high standards for the manufacturing of divers, garnering acclaim from professional divers all over the globe. However, the brand offers different types of diver’s watches at different price points.

Currently, there are over 120 models of divers in the Seiko Prospex collection, from mechanical watches to the solar-powered Prospex PADI Chronographs. Let’s see how the Seiko “Shogun” compares against other Seiko Dive Watches.

1. Quality

Even though Seiko has always focused on creating affordable dive watches, its watchmaking expertise and its proprietary technology have made it synonymous with high quality and expert craftsmanship.

There may be more style and functionality at almost every hundred-dollar increment when it comes to the watches in its catalog. But you can be sure that each one is made of high-quality raw materials, and the Shogun is no exception. 

All Seiko divers undergo a series of stringent lab tests to prove quality, reliability, and durability before they are released to the general public. So the Shogun, like other dive watches, is designed to last long. The protective glass of the more recent release is made up of high-grade sapphire, while the older iterations feature Hardlex crystal. 

Titanium, which is about 40% lighter than stainless steel but just as durable against impacts with similar technical and physical qualities, also gives the Shogun an edge over other dive watches from the brand.

Divers with nickel sensitivity will find the Shogun a preferable option because of the use of titanium. But, all in all, the quality is up to par with premium dive watches at the cutting edge of technology.

2. Legibility

Seiko dive watches are known for their straightforward, thoughtful, and highly legible design. Lume is always generously applied to the hands and indices with a high level of finishing on the hands and markers that not only play with the light for aesthetic purposes but also heighten the legibility of the watch.

The Shogun like many other dive watches has Seiko’s LumiBrite on the dial which glows brightly in the dark and will keep the timepiece highly legible at depths of 200 meters underwater. LumiBrite is a tremendously improved luminous paint that is completely free of radioactive elements and quickly absorbs light energy on exposure to it which it stores and emits in the dark. 

Visibility is enhanced in every detail, and the bold markers and handset of the Shogun are a testament to this. Add that to an uncluttered dial, and you have a timepiece with no compromise or distracting ornamentation, a feature of every dive watch from the Seiko. 

3. Movement

Seiko dive watches use three different movement variations. First, we have automatic or mechanical movements (such as the 6R35 in the Shogun) which are self-winding and work by harnessing the kinetic energy from the wearer’s natural movements. 

Some other dive watches utilize quartz. This means they are powered by a battery that transfers an electric current via the quartz crystal, thus creating vibration and oscillation. The electric pulse from this oscillating movement then powers a small electric motor that turns the gears in the watch. 

The last set of dive watches uses solar energy and works by converting light energy into electrical energy, which it stores in the rechargeable battery and ultimately uses to power the watch. The first generation of the Shogun used the 6R15 caliber, while the second generation is powered by the 6R35 caliber.

The latter is an evolution of the 6R15 movement and is found in many mid-range Prospex watches. Even though it’s not a very accurate movement, it is robust, reliable, easy to service, and offers great value for money. Quartz divers win in terms of accuracy and convenience. 

Even though the 6R15 and 6R35 of the Shogun serve their purpose and count as a reliable power horses, the accuracy is poor. You will find them in dive watches that typically span the $300-$600 range, including famous dive watches like the ‘Sumo’ (Seiko SPB103J1) and the Seiko Prospex Recreation (Ref. SPB053J1).

4. Design

When compared with other dive watches from Seiko, the Shogun utilizes the same layout but adds something a little extra. The element of beauty in The Shogun can be found in the interplay of sharp angles and flat surfaces that interact beautifully with light and shadow to create a striking aesthetic effect. 

When you look at the SPB189 & SPB191, you can see the standard divers watch feature with rounded sides and integrated lugs but the sharp lines and resilience of the Shogun are quite distinctive. 

Seiko knows better than to change a proven recipe, so every feature in the Prospex collection that is loved can be seen here. I mean the overall design (which is close to that of a Samurai watch), the reasonable price, and of course, the overall performance. 

So there are no major differences, only little tweaks here and there that make the watch appear more angular, creating a beautiful contrast, light on one side and shadow on the other to create an element of beauty.

At the core, the Shogun is just like other dive watches from Seiko with a polished and brushed case, screwed case back, a screw-down crown (both guaranteeing a 200m water resistance), and a highly legible dial.

5. Price

In terms of value for money, the Seiko Shogun holds its ground against other Seiko dive watches. When comparing prices, the Seiko Shogun is competitively priced within the dive watch market. 

The Seiko Monster, for instance, starts at around $250. The Seiko Samurai is priced at about $525, while the Seiko Turtle hovers around the $400 mark. The Seiko Tuna series, known for its durability, can range in price from $300 to over $800, depending on the model and condition.

While these other dive watches have unique features and price points, the Seiko Shogun remains compelling. 

The Seiko Shogun stands out on its own merits, but it is one of the most expensive entry-level dive watches from the Japanese Giant Watchmaker because titanium is used for the case and strap. Titanium watches are generally more expensive than stainless steel.  

Even though the latter is abundant and readily available, it is more difficult to process and costs more to purchase and repair hence the higher price.

Whether you’re a sports enthusiast, an adventure seeker, or simply appreciate a high-quality dive watch, the Seiko Shogun offers a compelling package that will impress you; however, prepare to spend a bit more for it.

Should You Buy A Seiko “Shogun”?

The Shogun is a timepiece that commands instant attention. Depending on the vendor and model, you can get the Shogun anywhere from $1,200 to $3,500 for a brand-new model, and it’s no longer news that its titanium case sets it apart from other watches in the Seiko Prospex collection. Here are four reasons why you should consider adding Seiko Shogun to your collection.

• The value is just incredible.

The Shogun is a watch synonymous with excellent quality, fit, and finish. You will instantly recognize the high quality when you hold it in your hands. The watch is designed to be robust, reliable, and dependable.

• It is built using high-quality materials.

Titanium is one of the strongest materials out there, with a higher strength-to-density ratio when compared to stainless steel. The robustness of the case and bracelet of the Shogun will ensure longevity and durability, making it a watch you could wear every day for years without the slightest sign of getting worn out. From the onset, Seiko has never sacrificed durability in the making of any component, including the movement, which doesn’t change with the Shogun.

• Enhanced legibility in every detail.

From the hands to the hour markers and bezel, the high level of legibility can be seen in almost every detail. If you want a durable watch for underwater exploration, you need to be able to read it. Seiko knows this, and the Shogun will always remain one of the most legible divers. A generous application of Lumibrite on the hands, indexes, and bezel means that time can be read correctly from any angle and at any depth, adding to the watch’s appeal.

•  200 meters of water resistance.

The water resistance rating of the Shogun makes the dive watch reliable and suitable for the sport it is named for and for a great many underwater adventures. It can also be worn during sailing, surfing, and even fishing. 

Concerning availability and price. The SPB189 & SPB191 are readily available and can be gotten from authorized dealers from Seiko worldwide. If you want a budget-friendly option, a pre-owned Shogun can be bought anywhere from $750 up, but you can purchase a new piece of the Shogun SPB189 here and Shogun SPB191 right here for $ and $1,350 respectively.

Conclusion

Let’s be honest. The Seiko Shogun isn’t for everyone. If you like the concept of a timepiece with an imposing presence, large dimensions, and premium features, then it’s a great option. However, the size and muscularity might not appeal to everyone, which is just fine. 

Alternatives that can offer much of the Shogun’s features and charm can be found within the Seiko lineup. The Shogun, however, will forever remain one of Seiko’s emblematic dive watches beloved by devoted collectors, mostly because of its robustness and lightweight titanium case.

Japan is famous for many things — technology, food, culture, nature, and many more. But what really flies under the radar is perhaps the creation of a certain watch brand named Seiko.

Thankfully for watch enthusiasts worldwide, we get to appreciate Seiko watches without needing to join a waitlist (looking at you, Rolex). With Seiko getting more popular among watch lovers, their passion leads to calling Seiko watches nicknames and rarely calling them by their actual names. 

But I don’t blame them. Seiko’s watches’ names can be boring and long as most of them consist of random letters and numbers, like SNJ025P1, S23631, SRPE93K, and more. Instead of these meaningless numbers, they are named the Arnie, Tuna, and Turtle, respectively. Aren’t they a hundred times more memorable and interesting? Anyway, I think you get my point. 

The Seiko Pogue (6139-6005) is no different, being nicknamed by Seiko lovers. In this topic, we will dive deeper into why it is named the Pogue. Why is it so special? And are there other “Pogues” out there?

Seiko 6139

It was in 1969 that Seiko released perhaps one of the world’s most important watches: the Seiko 6139. It came in different dial variations with the name 6139-600X, depending on the specific market. 

It was also often called the “Speed Timer” as it features a chronograph function. At that time, it was considered a cutting-edge timepiece that included multiple advanced features in a single watch: a 30-minute chronograph recorder, a day-date indicator, and a tachymeter scale. 

Competing For The Title

Putting the more technical stuff out of the way, let’s first discuss why it is so important. The Seiko 6139 was the first automatic chronograph wristwatch in the world. Well, arguably. Until this day, there is still a debate about which watch is the first automatic chronograph. 

It was January 10th, 1969, when Zenith claimed the title of releasing their first automatic chronograph prototype watch, and they named the watch “El Primero” — meaning “The First” in Spanish.

To compete with this, four gargantuan watch companies: Dubois Dépraz, Breitling, Heuer, and Hamilton-Büren (you probably know the latter brands as TAG Heuer and Hamilton) called the Chronomatic group, worked hard together to develop their automatic chronograph watch. 

On March 3, 1969, they released their prototype in a glamorous event, and a month later, pre-production samples were shown during the Basel Fair. Zenith was also at the fair but did not manage to compete with the Chronomatic group’s displays, as Zenith did not show that many samples during the event. 

In May 1969, it was Seiko’s turn to claim the throne by releasing the 6139 “Speed Timer”. Initially launched exclusively in the Japanese market, its debut was eventually released to the rest of the world. Here’s where the word “arguably” comes into play. 

To summarize the above according to the timeline:

Year 1969

January 10 – Zenith released El Primero, a prototype

March 3 – 4 big watch brands released the Chronomatic prototype

May – Seiko released the 6139 “Speed Timer”, serial production

So technically… Seiko claimed the throne for releasing the first automatic chronograph for someone who can actually buy and wear, and not just a prototype.

History and Origin of the Seiko “Pogue”

An American astronaut named Colonel William Pogue was assigned to a NASA space mission called “Skylab 4” in 1973. Six months before the mission, Col. Pogue needed to do pre-flight preparations to ensure its smooth execution, which included timing the spacecraft engine to measure when it would run out of power. 

This was very critical for astronauts because, in the event of mechanical failure in space, they had to know the precise duration that allowed them to find a proper solution within that limited timeframe. It was a matter of life or death.

Col. Pogue clearly needed something reliable and competent for this task and decided to go watch shopping at the Ellington AFB Exchange in Texas. 13th June 1972 marked the birth of Seiko “Pogue”, when he stumbled upon the Seiko 6139-6005 and snagged it up for just $71—an absolute bargain if you ask me. 

First Automatic Chronograph in Space

For many years, the Sinn 140 was on the throne for being the first automatic chronograph in space, worn by German astronaut Reinhard Furrer during his NASA “Spacelab D1” mission in 1985. 

However, a new contender dethroned the Sinn 140, the Seiko 6139-6005. It was in 2007 when Col. Pogue was found wearing the Seiko Pogue during the NASA “Skylab 4” mission on 16 November 1973, making it the first automatic chronograph in space, 12 years before Reinhard wore his Sinn 140 to space. 

Before the “Skylab 4” mission, all astronauts were only allowed to wear the Omega Speedmaster, being the only NASA-certified watch to be used in space. However, Col. Pogue was familiar with his trusty Seiko that he wore every day for the pre-flight preparation and decided to take his watch up to space. 

He did this by secretly tucking his watch in his suit leg pocket without official approval from NASA. I guess you could say that he was over the moon with the purchase of the Seiko 6139-6005 and even decided to risk his career for this.

For most parts of the mission, he wore the Seiko on the left arm and the NASA-certified Omega Speedmaster on the right. This was extremely cool to see. 

Col. Pogue wearing a Seiko, working in conjunction with Omega for the space mission. Or maybe, he decided to wear the Omega just for the photo but forgot to take off his Seiko “Pogue”. I guess no one really knows. What’s for certain is that Col.Pogue loved his Seiko “Pogue”.

Although he did not wear the watch during the EVA Spacewalk, I believe his Seiko 6139-6005 was always by his side for the rest of his mission which lasted almost 3 months and 84 days – until 8 February 1974.

Last Days of the True Seiko “Pogue”

Col. Pogue proudly wore his Seiko until his retirement in 2003. It was then auctioned off for $5,975 in 2008 at the Heritage Auctions, which was used to fund the Astronaut Scholarship Foundation. A photo of his Seiko 6139-6005 was later released on their website.

It was extremely worn out. The bezel was heavily scratched, and the colors were starting to fade. The crystal also had scratch marks all over it. The case and pushers were heavily damaged, where obvious scratches and chips can be seen. 

What’s interesting is the bracelet of his Seiko as it was not original. Many believed that he swapped the actual bracelet for a new one, probably due to the torn condition of the original bracelet. But, I think he wanted to have a part of his faithful Seiko Pogue by his side.

Nevertheless, Col. Pogue wore his Seiko with the intention of using it, not collecting it, and that’s what watches are for. The Seiko 6139-6005 was not only Col. Pogue’s watch and tool but also his best companion. 

The Seiko “Pogue” 6139-6005

Case

The case shape has these uniform and graceful curves on both sides, almost like the end of Batman’s logo design, indicating the bat’s wings. What’s unique is the aggressive tapering of the sharp lugs from the case itself, which elevates the look of the case. The case, at first glance, reminds me of a hovercraft because of the sharp tapering lugs that cause it to “float” on the wrist.

This defined look of the 6139-6005 is even more emphasized with the case size of 40mm, especially on a smaller wrist. For a watch in the 1970s, its case size would be considered big. However, with the help of its short 46mm lug-to-lug and the design of sharp lugs, the case does not feel bulky and sits comfortably on the wrist. With a 19mm lug width to hold the bracelet, it gives the case a balanced and symmetrical look. 

The case is made from stainless steel with a beautiful satin finish to ensure long-lasting, reliable performance. Stainless steel, being a more durable and harder material with anti-corrosive and scratch-resistant qualities, is the perfect choice for a watch like the Seiko 6139-6005. You’d never know if someone will take it on an audacious adventure like going into space. 

Caseback

The caseback is simple – the Seiko logo, markings of “Waterproof” or “Water Resistant”, depending on the year of production, the serial number, and also the model number of your watch. Interestingly, watches with “Waterproof” markings were manufactured between 1969 to February 1970. However, in response to the general consensus among watch manufacturers, Seiko subsequently adopted the term “Water Resistant” instead.

The caseback is also made of tough stainless steel to help maintain water resistance of 70m and was essential in protecting the watch from potential damages like dust and rust. Being an older watch with a chronograph function, 70m water resistance was respectable during that time. 

Bracelet

Matching with the case, also made with stainless steel, is the “H-link” bracelet with thick and polished end links. The folding clasp is also easy to operate and is comfortable on the wrist. However, the construction of the bracelet wasn’t great as it wobbles easily and does not have the best of finishes. But for $71 (at that time), it will suffice. 

Crystal

Unlike most high-end watches, unfortunately, the Seiko Pogue has a Hardlex crystal instead of a more scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. But Hardlex crystal has its upsides too. Made from Seiko’s own factory, this crystal can withstand minor collisions and features anti-reflective properties—an advantage that sapphire crystals lack.

This means you can properly read the time (or enjoy the amazing dial) on your Seiko Pogue, no matter the lighting conditions. Its affordability compared to a sapphire crystal also convincingly justifies the pricing of the Seiko Pogue. 

Bezel

The Seiko Pogue has a Pepsi color scheme tachymeter, with about a quarter of bright red starting from 12 and a vibrant blue on the rest of the bezel. The striking contrast between red and blue enables wearers to effortlessly use the tachymeter function to measure time, speed, and distance. 

The markings on it are also clear, crisp, and precise, with the use of white fonts for the text. This, combined with the Pepsi color scheme, really brings the watch alive, giving it a splash of sportiness and certainly adding points to the fun meter. 

What adds an extra layer of fascination to the Seiko Pogue is a bright yellow inner bezel that rotates! Photos of Col. Pogue’s watch showed a white inner bezel instead of yellow. 

Knowing that none of the Seiko 6139 models had a white-colored inner bezel, it was later discovered the originally yellow inner bezel would gradually turn white from constant UV exposure, which just proves that Col. Pogue truly loved his Seiko 6139-6005 and wore it so often. 

The inner bezel is actually a rotating indicator ring with black-colored 60 minutes markings, allowing the wearer to measure minutes more accurately. Wonder how it rotates? Keep reading to find out. 

Crown

The Seiko Pogue definitely has the coolest crown function in all watches I’ve seen. But let’s talk aesthetics first. The crown has no special emblem, guards, or other fancy-looking additions. Nestled seamlessly within the case at 3 o’clock, it does not protrude out like traditional crowns, making it barely visible from the front view.

Now let’s talk functions. To use the chronograph function, two pushers are located at 2 and 5, protruding from the case. To start and stop recording, push the top pusher, and the red second hand will sweep/stop; to reset, simply push the bottom pusher after stopping the recording, and the red second hand will snap back to its original position (at 12). 

To adjust the time, simply pull the crown into the first position and rotate. Nothing special, but here comes. To rotate the inner bezel, you just need to rotate the crown at its original position in either a clockwise or anti-clockwise direction, and the inner bezel will rotate accordingly. 

Still not special enough? Take a look at this. To change the date, you push the crown inwards, and to change the day, you push the crown inwards, harder, almost like acting as a button. Yes, there may be more efficient ways, but it is extremely cool to find brands coming up with ingenious ideas and implementing them into watches. 

To this day, I have not seen any other watch with this function to change the day and date, and I hope one day Seiko brings this back (or I could just get a Seiko Pogue).

Dial 

Striking is an understatement for Seiko Pogue’s dial. I really want to give credit to Seiko’s design department for having the guts to try something new, especially for their first automatic chronograph. The dial has a dazzling yellow-gold dial that almost reminds me of honey under beaming sunlight with its sun-ray finish.

The color contrast of this yellow-gold dial with the Pepsi-colored bezel really shows off the look of the Seiko Pogue, almost like it constantly has a spotlight on it. Such bold use of three primary colors definitely isn’t for everyone, and it is a design that you either hate or love and thankfully, I’m in the “love” category. 

With its chronograph function, the dial has a yellow-gold sub-dial at 6 that is able to record up to 30 minutes. The black-toned numbers and texts make it easy to read for wearers. Another feature is the day-date windows, located at 3 framed with silver boxes, black background, and white font (red on Sunday), giving it a more well-defined look.

The dial also has simple squared-baton indices and baton-styled hour and minute hands in a shiny silver color. Giving a contrasted look, the second hands and the sub-dial chronograph hands are colored in deep red. Most importantly, all hands and indices are coated with Seiko’s luminous tech with the use of Tritium. 

To complete the look, what makes the Seiko Pogue unique, is the information written on the dial. It features a “SEIKO AUTOMATIC” at 12, “WATER70mRESIST” at 9 and just slightly below the middle of the dial (between the minute and hour hands and the 30-minute sub-dial), placed the markings of the words “17J” and the Suwa logo.

Movement

The Seiko 6139-6005 runs on the 6139B automatic movement, an improvement over the original movement of 6139A that was used for the first 6139-600X batches. Featuring a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, a respectable thickness of just 7.1mm for a chronograph movement with day and date functions, and a 45 hours power reserve.

With this being a vintage watch, we can properly assess its reliability and reviews from its wearers from all these years. Upon research, many did not find any problems with the movement and only needed minimal services to keep it functioning. Keep in mind this watch was released 53 years ago! No wonder Seiko is often praised and seen as one of the most robust and reliable watchmakers in the world.

Other Variations of the Seiko “Pogue”

Seiko 6139-6002

Let’s address the elephant in the room. Most people mistook the 6139-6002 as the true “Pogue” instead of the 6139-6005. The difference is not obvious, but it is noticeable. 

Similar to the 6005, the 6002 also has a vibrant yellow-gold dial, but the information on the dial is different. On the 12, it has the word “SEIKO Chronograph Automatic” (instead of SEIKO Automatic); there are no “WATER 70m RESIST” markings on the 9; and there are no “17J” and no Suwa symbol.

There have been several changes to the Seiko 6139-600X models throughout its production years, especially the writings on the dial. Let’s discuss what has changed throughout the years.

Information Changes On The Dial

1969 – early 1970: The words “WATER 70M PROOF at 9 o’clock, “Chronograph Automatic” at 12 for JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) models, and “Automatic” for non-JDM models. The caseback also features the “WATERPROOF” marking.

These are very rare to acquire because it was only released for a short period of time, making them more desirable for watch collectors. Late 1970 – 1971: The markings changed to “WATER 70m RESIST” due to a law that required manufacturers to include the markings of water resistance instead. Markings on the caseback also changed to “WATER RESIST” (used until April/May 1970) or “WATER RESISTANT”.

1972: Markings of “WATER 70m RESIST” on the dial were completely removed but maintained the “WATER RESISTANT” wording on the case back.

Dial Colors

The reference numbers of specific Seiko 6139-600X models do not directly correlate to different dial colors, as they can sometimes mean releases for different regions or at different times. 

All dial colors also went through different phases of information changes, as mentioned above. Hence, in this article, we focus only on the other dial colors of the Seiko 6139-600X models to prevent further confusion. 

Blue dial: Nicknamed the “Cevert” because it was worn by the famous French F1 racer François Cevert, who later died in an unfortunate car crash in 1973. It was also worn by Pink Floyd’s Nick Mason, which adds to the cool factor. 

Interestingly, the blue dial was also released as a JDM model with  “Speed-Timer” replacing “Chronograph Automatic” at 12 o’clock, and “5 SPORTS WATER 70 PROOF” (later changed to just “5 Sports” in 1975) at 9. This dial variation also comes with a black inner bezel.

Gold dial: Most well-known dial for the Seiko Pogue (6139-6005) and the 6139-6002. Most people also associate the 6139-6002 with the Seiko Pogue as well due to its similarities with the 6139-6005. 

Silver dial: Possibly the rarest dial variation and is highly sought after by watch collectors. This also comes with a black inner bezel. 

Teal dial: Another really rare dial variation, and it is speculated that this watch was only produced for 2 months. It’s nicknamed the “Sunrise” due to its red bar markings at the 6 o’clock sub-dial. This also has a unique “Speed-Timer” text at 9 o’clock written in red and a “Seiko 5 Sports” logo at 12.

Final Thoughts

What an adventure that the Seiko Pogue has had, been to possibly the hardest place to go to for any human being, let alone watch. Hopefully, the Seiko Pogue is resting well and in a better place. Perhaps it’s for the best so that other watches can rest well, too, from jealousy. 

It’s easy to understand why Seiko has one of the biggest “cult” groups in the world, and I can clearly say that I’m proud to be one.