Category: Seiko

To most modern watch collectors, Grand Seiko has become a household name. Operating as the high-end arm of Seiko’s many brands, Grand Seiko is well known for making high-quality watches with remarkable movement and case finishing. 

Additionally, their Spring Drive technology provides the old-world charm of mechanical watchmaking with the benefits of higher accuracy of quartz technology. While Credor operates at a higher price tier than Grand Seiko, there is another high-end brand in the Seiko stable below Grand Seiko: King Seiko. 

About King Seiko Watches

King Seiko was launched alongside Grand Seiko in the 1960s. Grand Seiko was founded in the Nagano Prefecture and was always intended to be the best of what the Seiko brand could offer. 

King Seiko was founded in Kameido, Tokyo, and was intended to create high-quality and accurate timepieces with more mass market intentions. With that, given both brand’s desire for quality, advances made in movement and case technology were shared by both brands, allowing them to mutually benefit and flourish. 

The mechanical side of Daini Seikosha’s factory (where King Seikos were made) was closed in the 1970s due to the rise of quartz watches. With that, there was no need for two high-end mechanical watch brands. Grand Seiko even went into developing high-end, high-accuracy quartz watches in addition to their existing mechanical watches.

It was not until some limited editions in 2021 and a full permanent collection in 2022 that the King Seiko brand became part of the Seiko catalog once again. 

About Grand Seiko Watches

Also introduced in the 1960s, Grand Seiko’s factory was focused on the Nagano Prefecture. With the aim of creating the best timepieces possible, the positive reputation of Grand Seiko watches grew quickly. 

The Self-Dater model was produced in 1964 and aimed to provide a suitable daily companion that looked great with everything from daily attire to formal wear. Early developments focused on water resistance, power reserve, and accuracy. 

Through the 1970s, they continued to develop high-beat and automatic winding movements, continuing the quest for accuracy and everyday usability. 

Where King Seiko left off, Grand Seiko continued onwards, releasing their first quartz-powered watch in 1988, which had a rated accuracy of +/- 10 seconds per year! With quartz being the preferred time-keeping technology of the market at that time, Grand Seiko continued to develop quartz technology. 

When mechanical watches started to come back into favor with collectors in the 1990s, Grand Seiko sought to create their interpretation of the ideal daily timepiece. Offering a newly designed automatic movement, their 9S5 series was released in 1998. 

Grand Seiko continued developing mechanical watch technology by offering longer power reserves, complications, and increased accuracy. 2004 saw the release of the first Spring Drive caliber, combining both mechanical and quartz technologies. 

To this day, Grand Seiko continues to develop new movements and watches, reinforcing the original vision of creating the best timepieces possible. 

King Seiko vs Grand Seiko: Which Is The Right One For You?

If you’re looking at vintage examples from the 1960s onwards, picking between the two is more of a matter of personal preference than one being better than the other. 

While some Grand Seiko models are definitely more high-end than some King Seiko models, the accuracy and reliability of vintage pieces are always more variable than modern pieces from well-respected brands. 

When it comes to modern examples, it really is a matter of preference and budget. King Seiko’s current offerings seem to focus on offering a high-quality case, bracelet, and dial finishing but using the 6R series of mechanical movements from Seiko, which can be seen in watches costing less than the King Seiko’s lower price limit. 

For not much more money, the entry-level quartz-powered offerings from Grand Seiko could be considered. While still high-quality watchmaking, picking a quartz watch versus a mechanical watch is a matter of preference as opposed to one being better than the other. 

To get into Grand Seiko mechanical and Spring Drive offerings, the cost will be more than even the most expensive King Seiko currently offered (the SJE095 at $3,829). The Grand Seiko SBGR257 retails for $4,100. The few hundred dollars difference will buy a higher quality movement, but one could argue that the design and detail of the SJE095 are more ornate, justifying the closeness in price. 

Besides overall price, here are a few things to consider.

Brand Recognition

With Grand Seiko being a more well-established brand in recent times, the GS brand definitely gets the nod here. While King Seiko watches are still high quality, it is more of a modern reinterpretation of a dormant Seiko sub-brand. 

Seiko watch enthusiasts will be familiar with the King Seiko brand, but the general public will be less likely to know the King Seiko brand, let alone Grand Seiko. If brand recognition is important and you are considering these two brands, go with Grand Seiko. 

Model Variety

With modern King Seiko being a relatively new offering by Seiko, the Grand Seiko catalog currently offers greater variety. With varying styles (dress, casual, sport, GMTs, dive watches, chronographs, ladies’ pieces, etc.), Grand Seiko likely has a watch that will appease almost any potential buyer. 

King Seiko’s offerings, while very attractive, are currently very limited. I hope King Seiko continues to flourish and expand its catalog. Even then, I can imagine that they continue to offer watches in a similar style, whereas Grand Seiko has managed to venture into more diverse model ranges. 

Build Quality & Finishing

Both product families are manufactured by Seiko and are at the higher end of the product lineup. That means that they will be of high quality and will likely last generations with proper care. 

King Seiko’s biggest value proposition is their level of case and bracelet finishing. While not quite on the level of Grand Seiko, they definitely punch above their price, competing with other brands that cost multiple times more than King Seiko’s retail price. 

Where Grand Seiko is much better, and it is reflected in the prices, is their level of finishing overall. The hands, dials, and indices are expertly mirror-polished. The case edges are crisp, with contrasting sections beautifully executed. Additionally, movement decoration is done to a high standard, again competing beyond their typical price range. 

Movements

As already mentioned, the King Seiko line of products currently uses 6R and 6L movements. While entirely capable and reliable, they are well-made and decently finished mass market movements. Durable, accurate, and reliable, they will undoubtedly get the job done.

Grand Seiko movements, however, are very well decorated and finished. They are still designed to be incredibly reliable and accurate, and they also are beautiful to look at. Even their quartz movements are beautifully finished and designed to be fully serviceable by a watchmaker. Regardless of the timepiece’s price, Grand Seiko delivers an expertly finished movement. 

Pricing & Availability

This might be a point of consideration that is less straightforward than the other factors potential buyers usually look at. King Seiko is priced at roughly half of Grand Seiko’s mechanical offerings but fairly close to their entry-level quartz offerings. On price alone, that can be a difficult decision to make.

Availability may make the decision easier though. Seiko corporate has taken large steps towards making Grand Seiko widely available as a global luxury brand in recent years. Because of that, Grand Seiko is available in almost every large metropolitan area around the world, making them available to purchase in most markets.

King Seiko, on the other hand, is still not as widely distributed as Grand Seiko. In the United States, a King Seiko purchase, especially in person, takes some searching and effort. The lack of convenience may be a turn-off for some, but the hunt and the need to be “in-the-know” may make the decision easy for other collectors. 

Resale Value

Because of the leaps and bounds Grand Seiko has made as a brand toward global notoriety, resale value has solidified. Still, Grand Seiko does not retain its value as well as other blue-chip brands. 

An avid collector base for vintage King Seiko definitely aids the brand, but the value of modern King Seiko pieces still varies widely. Neither watch will be worth zero, and careful research and patience will aid in ensuring one gets a good deal. If turning a profit is the goal for either brand, it is best to look elsewhere. 

King Seiko vs Grand Seiko: Best Models Comparison

Below are a few comparisons of similar aesthetic models between the two brands. The price differences between the King Seiko and Grand Seiko pieces shown here are quite large, but a closer look at the below models will hopefully assist in deciding which is the best for you. 

King Seiko SPB279 vs Grand Seiko SBGA211

The SPB279 is part of the collection that relaunched the King Seiko brand. Measuring 37mm wide, 12.1mm thick, 43.6mm lug to lug, and with a 19mm lug width, the dimensions are wearable for a wide range of wrist sizes and preferable for those who prefer smaller watches. 

Inside is the 6R31 movement, which is rated to -15/+25 seconds a day, with 24 jewels and a 70-hour power reserve. The silver dial with a textured 12 o’clock marker is covered with a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating. The case is rated to 100 meters of water resistance. The SPB279 retails for 1700 USD.

The SBGA211, also known as “The Snowflake”, has become a signature model for Grand Seiko. The 41mm wide high-intensity titanium case measures 49mm lug to lug, 12.5mm thick, and has 20mm lugs. 

The real star of the show is the white textured dial, reminiscent of the snow covered mountains outside the Grand Seiko studio in Nagano, Japan. The sapphire display caseback shows off the 9R65 spring drive movement, which is rated to +/- 1 second per day and has a 72-hour power reserve. The SBGA211 retails for 6,200 USD. 

	King Seiko SPB279	Grand Seiko SBGA211
Case Size	37mm	41mm
Materials	Stainless Steel	Titanium
Water Resistance	100m	100m
Movement	Automatic, 6R31	Spring Drive, 9R65
Strap	Stainless Steel Bracelet	Titanium Bracelet
Additional Features	Textured 12 o’clock hour marker.	Power reserve indicator, smooth seconds sweep.
MSRP	$1,700	$6,200

King Seiko SJE087 vs Grand Seiko SBGW295

The SJE087 is King Seiko’s modern recreation of the original KSK model introduced in 1961. Enlarged to more modern dimensions, the 38.1mm wide case measures 44.7mm lug to lug and 11.4mm thick. With these dimensions, the case will still be very wearable while having a more modern presence than the original KSK. Inside is the 6L35 movement, with a 45-hour power reserve and date function. 

The stainless steel case is 50 meters water resistant, which is enough for most daily activities. The watch comes with a premium brown crocodile strap. The champagne dial has gold indices and is covered by a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating. The SJE087 retails for $3,300. 

The SBGW295G is similar to the SJE087 in that it is a modern recreation of the first Grand Seiko watch from 1960. Part of Seiko’s 110th watchmaking anniversary, this premium model has a titanium case and hands and indices made of pure gold on top of an “Urushi” black lacquer dial. 

Utilizing the manually wound 9S64 movement, it has a 72-hour power reserve and is rated to +5/-3 seconds per day. Measuring 38mm wide, 45.7mm lug to lug, and 10.9mm thick, the dimensions are similar to the SJE087. Rated to only nominal water resistance, this is a true, albeit modern, dress watch. The SBGW295G retails for 13,800 USD.

	King Seiko SJE087	Grand Seiko SBGW295G
Case Size	38.1mm	38mm
Materials	Stainless Steel	Titanium
Water Resistance	50m	Splash Resistant
Movement	Automatic 6L35	Manual 9S64
Strap	Crocodile	Textile/Leather
Additional Features (1-2 unique features for each watch)	Date feature, special case back	Solid gold hands and indices.
MSRP	$3,300	$13,800

King Seiko SPB365 vs Grand Seiko SLGA021

The King Seiko SPB365 is King Seiko’s special edition for the 110th anniversary of Seiko watchmaking. Utilizing the same case shape and movement as the SPB279, the SPB365 has a dial that is inspired by the turtle shells of the turtles native to Kameido (the birthplace of King Seiko). In addition to the steel bracelet, a sustainable calf leather strap is also included. The special dial carries a small premium, with the SPB365 retailing at 1800 USD.

SLGA021 is part of Grand Seiko’s newer Evolution 9 collection. Featuring a bolder and modern case and bracelet design, the Evolution 9 watches feel slightly more sporty than previous similarly-styled Grand Seiko watches. The main feature of the SLGA021 is the textured blue dial, designed to recall the waves of Lake Suwa. 

Inside is the 9RA2 Spring Drive movement, which has a 5-day power reserve, power reserve indicator, and date functions and is rated to +/- 0.5 seconds a day. The 40mm wide stainless steel case measures 47.9mm lug to lug and 11.8mm thick, with a 22mm lug spacing. With 100 meters of water resistance, the SLGA021 will withstand daily wear and light aquatic adventures with ease. The SLGA021 retails for $9,100. 

	King Seiko SPB365	Grand Seiko SLGA021
Case Size	37mm	40mm
Materials	Stainless Steel	Stainless Steel
Water Resistance	100m	100m
Movement	Automatic 6R31	Spring Drive 9RA2
Strap	Stainless Steel	Stainless Steel
Additional Features (1-2 unique features for each watch)	Special limited edition, 1800 pieces. Special dial, additional strap.	Textured blue dial, 5-day power reserve.
MSRP	$1,800	$9,100

Conclusion

While the models featured here are similar aesthetically, the price difference between them, I think, is the ultimate purchasing determination. If you have the budget for either, the deciding factor will ultimately be down to specifications and features. 

If you want the best movement, case, and dial finishing Seiko Corporation has to offer, then it will be without a doubt, Grand Seiko. If you prefer a slightly smaller case, then King Seiko may be the way to go, as their case dimensions are usually slightly smaller than Grand Seiko’s. 

For me personally, there are instances that I would pick the King Seiko over the Grand Seiko because of case size and dial options. In other instances, it is a no-brainer, as Grand Seiko does offer superior quality, with the associated costs. 

With the original intention of King Seiko being between the regular Seiko line and Grand Seiko, I think they have succeeded in that, and it is priced appropriately. Both offer collectors a great deal to appreciate and a watch they can enjoy for many years to come. 

When it comes to the world of timekeeping, Seiko has consistently stood as a symbol of reliability, innovation, and cost-effectiveness. Since its origin in 1881, the Japanese giant has become one of the most well-known and loved companies on the market. Perhaps more famous for their rugged divers, there have also been a couple of influential chronographs. 

We’re going to be looking at the 15 best Seiko Chronographs – some divers, some made to be used while piloting an aircraft, but all designed to look stunning on your wrist for not a lot of cash – probably…

About Seiko Chronograph Watches

Seiko is best known for classics like the SKX, the Sumo, and the Turtle. While these divers are iconic in their own right, Seiko has every right to be in conversations about chronographs. Perhaps the most famous in their catalog is the Speedtimer range, which is based on the original Speedtimers released in 1969. 

They also introduced the chronograph functionality into their Presage dress line. The 55th-anniversary model ref. SRQ031J1 was introduced in 2019 and was a faithful recreation of the 1964 Crown chronograph. 

You’ll find a Seiko chronograph in almost each of their offerings, from dress pieces to divers. Many of them are powered by their solar calibers, allowing the wearer to keep time without ever worrying about running out of power reserve. 

History of Seiko Chronograph Watches

As mentioned, Seiko was founded in 1881, but the first Seiko chronograph was only introduced in 1964 at the Tokyo Olympics. Not only would this be a monumental year for Seiko but for the entirety of Japan. Following the aftermath of WWII, the 1964 Olympics reintroduced Japan as a country to trust and invest in. 

The Chronograph in question was ref. 5718-8000, a hand-wound steel timepiece developed to be seen as a statement on the wrist while remaining functional. The 38.2mm case housed the caliber 5719, which included a single button to trigger the chronograph’s functions as well as a column wheel to control the chronograph. 

When it comes to developing the first automatic chronograph, many believe Seiko was actually the first to do so. As we all know, the Swiss giants such as Zenith, Breitling, Heuer, Hamilton-Buren, and Dubois Dépraz were all developing their own; Seiko released its 5 Speed-Timer in mid-May of 1969, which housed the caliber 6138. As the story goes, Seiko won the race seeing as the Swiss only released their offerings later that year. 

The 15 Best Seiko Chronograph Watches

Here’s a list of the 15 best Seiko chronograph watches you can buy today:

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ037 Automatic Chronograph

Kicking off with a banger, we have the Prospex Speedtimer SRQ037, a steel chronograph with a vintage flair thanks to it being based on the aforementioned 5 Speed-Timer, the ‘first’ automatic chronograph to hit the market. 

This piece of functional wrist candy features a 42.5mm diameter with a rather large 50mm lug-to-lug – the watch is certainly created with modern taste in mind. Most of this size is taken up by the stark and highly legible dark dial featuring the two chronograph subregisters we expect. 

What I personally like about this dial is the subregisters don’t abruptly cut off the indices. Another point of discussion is the glorious broad dauphine handset which dominates the dial and is packed with 

The bracelet and case are all finished with a brushed finish for a vintage feel, whereas the bezel dials things up with a polished finish. Taking care of timekeeping duties is the 8R46 caliber, an automatic movement that also features manual winding and is equipped with a 45-hour power reserve. 

Seiko Prospex SRQ029J1 Automatic Chronograph

Here we have another vintage-inspired piece, the ref. SRQ029J1 was introduced to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Seiko’s first chronograph – the 1964 Crown. This was released in 2019 and was limited to only 1,000 pieces, so the chances of you still finding one are slim – unfortunately. 

Regardless, this reference might be inspired by the Crown; however, it’s merely a loose interpretation. Whereas the original was a monopusher chronograph, the SRQ029J1 features two chronograph pushers as well as three subregisters compared to the original, which had none. 

A black outer tachymeter contrasts perfectly with the white inner dial, which contains the chronograph subdials. An interesting feature is the syringe hands, which could be inspired by the ref. 6138-8020, and something we don’t typically see on sporty chronographs. I like ‘em. 

Other than the stellar dial is the bracelet, which is a five-link stainless steel bracelet with varying finish methods, from brushed outer links to more polished center links. 

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC813 Solar Chronograph

If you want something that’s about as sporty as using your chronograph to time by how much you can improve your school run time, perhaps the ref. SSC813 is the option for you. A classic chrono design, a contrasting ‘panda’ dial matched with a fixed black tachymeter bezel. 

The 39mm stainless steel case is a nice welcome for those looking for a chrono with wrist-friendly dimensions, and with a thickness of only 13.3mm, it’s not overbearing. Within said 100m waterproof case is the V192 solar movement. 

A solar movement chrono always hits the sweet spot; you can use the power-intensive chronograph function with ease of mind knowing your power source is a literal nuclear fusion reaction. And if it does go dark, you have a theoretical power reserve of a whopping 6 months. 

Finishing off the timepiece, we have a sapphire crystal, and when you couple all these features together, and you consider many have bought it at a price point lower than the advertised $675, it really is a steal. 

Seiko Presage SRQ031J1 Automatic Chronograph

If you want another Crown-inspired chrono, the ref. SRQ031J1 might be a viable option. This 55th Anniversary model was released not to be an exact copy or reinterpretation of the original but rather to draw some stylistic cues while also having its own direction. 

Cream dial? Check. 

Black bezel? Check. 

Pump-style pushers? Check. 

The new Presage does draw quite a lot from the original but has the addition of three subregisters on the dial, whereas the original had none. The dial has immense dimension thanks to the contrasting chapter ring and applied “double facetted” applied indexes. 

More pressing, the watch underwent a protein-rich diet and gained a few inches, coming in at a healthy 42.33mm in diameter and 15.3mm in thickness – not the thinnest on the list, but certainly still manageable. That said, the black bezel does make the watch look more compact than it actually is. Finishing things off is the case, which features beveled, straight lugs and a silky smooth polished finish. 

Seiko Prospex “Sumo” SSC757J1 Solar Chronograph

The Seiko ‘Sumo’ is named after its distinctive size and shape, resembling the imposing stature of a sumo wrestler. The Sumo SSC757J1 boasts a stainless steel case with a diameter of approximately 44mm but will wear slightly smaller thanks to the snug lug-to-lug profile. It is matched with a steel three-link bracelet secured with a three-fold clasp with a secure lock and push-button release for added convenience.

Telling you the time is the solar V192 caliber, meaning you’re more likely to run into someone actually diving with their full gold Submariner before running out of power. The black unidirectional dive bezel is matched with a black dial displaying three chrono subregisters, a date aperture, and the power reserve. 

Large hour markers and hands are packed with luminous material, which adds to the excellent legibility of the watch. Some people might dislike the functions of the watch cutting some of these indices, but with a chrono diver, there is only so much spare… 

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SFJ003 Solar Chronograph

What if the regular three-subregister design just isn’t for you? What if you’re the type of person who drives a vintage Volvo not because it’s great value but because Volvo actually used to be exemplary when it comes to racing? Well, for your taste, the SFJ003 Speedtimer might very well be the perfect contender. 

Here we have a normal dial that contains four subregisters. Your hours and minutes are displayed on the large 6 o’clock sub-register, whereas the top three display your chrono functionality. If you don’t like this black-on-black design, there’s also a panda version. 

Unlike some of the chonkier boys mentioned before, this chronograph comes in at a much slimmer 12.9mm thanks to the solar caliber inside. This is also one of the most recently introduced Speedtimers, and said 8A50 caliber allows for wearers to measure time in 1/100  second increments. 

Seiko Astron SSJ013J1 GPS Solar Chronograph

Want a Royal Oak? Can’t afford one? Yeah, I can relate. But what about a (real) Seiko that has the undertones of the Swiss giant while still being undeniably Seiko? Well, the Astron SSJ013J1 fits that bill perfectly with its own octagonal-shaped case and integrated bracelet. You even get a tapestry-like dial as well! 

Behind said dial sits the 3X62 caliber, which is quite remarkable, featuring a GPS signal reception function, a satellite acquisition status display function, and, in case you forget, the date! This SSJ013J1 sits in the middle of the lineup, being fully constructed in titanium with a light blue dial, whereas the SSJ014J1 is my personal favorite and is presented with a ‘gold’ bezel and pushers. 

The thin trend is ongoing as this Solar measures only 12mm in thickness, matched with a 41.2mm diameter. Due to the titanium construction and slim ergonomics, the watch wears remarkably easily, and with looks like those, it can be worn with a T-shirt or a button-down. 

Seiko Flightmaster SNA411 Quartz Chronograph

What if you prefer functionality over fashion, a pilot’s watch over an integrated case design? Well, say hello to the Flightmaster SNA411, an aviation-themed timepiece that doesn’t look like it’s here to fool around. 

Your attention is immediately drawn to the extremely busy dial that features your typical three chrono subregisters, a date aperture, a compass subregister, and an E6B navigational slide rule bezel. If you ever thought ruggedness couldn’t be attractive, think again. 

Having so many functions means the size certainly cannot possibly be decently sized. However, Seiko has come up with another very well-proportioned case at 42mm. While certainly not small or subtle, it’s still very wearable for medium to large wrists. Even though this piece is certainly made with aviation in mind, it still sports a healthy 200m water resistance rating, which is more than most of us would need. 

Seiko SNDC33 Quartz Chronograph

Bringing the size back to 40mm, we have the SNDC33, a sporty timepiece that still exudes luxurious undertones. Starting with a highly polished steel case with classic pump chrono pushers, matched with a simple brown leather strap. 

Moving inwards, we have a clean black dial that displays the three chrono subregisters at the 12, 6, and 9 o’clock positions, which somehow feels more elegant than the typical 3, 6, and 9 positions. 

An outer railroad track doubles down on elegance, while a quartz movement keeps everything ticking. Unfortunately, the watch doesn’t really seem to be available all that much anymore, so good luck! 

Seiko SSB397 Quartz Chronograph

Here we have a chronograph that has one goal and one goal only: sportiness. Starting off, we have a 41mm brushed steel case matched with a three-link bracelet. Moving your attention to the dial, we have a black and silver dial featuring the typical three subregister layout and a date aperture at the 04:30 position – which some might have an affinity against. 

The outer perimeter of the dial displays the tachymeter, and to keep everything nice and legible, the indices and hands are all packed with luminous material. The 8T63 quartz movement within keeps you on time all the time, and the 100m water resistance rating ensures you are safe when jumping in the shower. 

Seiko Astron SSH023 GPS Solar Chronograph

The original Seiko Astron finds its roots in 1969, and the Seiko Astron GPS was introduced at Baselworld in 2012. The SSH023 is a loved model in the range, and stealthy black-coated steel case and black ceramic bezel; it’s easy to see why. 

Sized for contemporary tastes with a 42.7mm diameter, with a key focus on aesthetics. A fantastic brushed bracelet blends in smoothly with the case and follows the vertical lines of the dial. The black dial also features an outer UTC track that allows you to track the secondary timezone. 

As a 50th Anniversary model limited to merely 1,500 pieces, it’s unlikely you’ll get one brand new. That said, for a ceramic bezel, sapphire crystal, a GPS solar chrono movement, and a look that is unique that still maintains a 100m water resistance? What’s not to love? 

Seiko Coutura SSG009 Solar Chronograph

The Seiko Coutura is often one in the catalog that doesn’t fit the others; it’s unique, otherworldly, and with a bracelet resembling something reptilian, it certainly makes a bold statement. An integrated bracelet style flows into the 44.5mm polished case that includes a cabochon screw-down crown, in case you didn’t notice. 

The inner dial features a diamond argyle pattern which is encompassed by the other dial, which features a thick circular design – you have to get really up close to appreciate the efforts Seiko made with this dial. While up and close, you might also notice the beveled edges on the indices or the hands that are skeletonized. 

Apart from being utterly unique, the movement within is the solar caliber 8B92 movement. This movement not only provides chronograph functionality but allows the wearer to track the time in 25 different cities, as illustrated on the black aluminum bezel. 

Seiko Essentials SSB409 Quartz Chronograph

From one quirky design to the next, we have the SSB409, which forms part of the ‘Everyday’ range within the Seiko brand. The layout and style are very similar to that offered by the SSB397; however, the SSB409 is offered on a black, blue, and gray racing stripe nylon strap rather than a bracelet. 

The dial is slightly different as well, sporting a light blue hue with visual intrigue provided by the pops of color on the orange hands and red ‘TACHYMETER’ scripts. Towards the inner dial, we have contrasting finishing methods used with several hits of silver to create a very unique look. 

While the 100m waterproof case is not large by today’s standards, 41mm is what many think of as just around the perfect size for most wrists, and thanks to the NATO strap, it won’t feel overbearing. 

Seiko Prospex SSC781 Solar Chronograph

Back to rugged chrono divers with the Prospex SSC781, presented in a 200m waterproof 44mm stainless steel case. On the front, you have a bi-tone unidirectional diving bezel finished in blue for the first 15 minutes and then black for the remaining 45-minute gradation. 

Bringing your attention to the dial that displays your typical three-subregister chrono display alongside a date aperture at the 4:30 position – again, for some, the asymmetry of the dial just doesn’t work. For added sportiness, the chronograph hand is finished in the same blue as the bezel, and the case is presented on a brushed and polished bracelet. 

Ticking away within said case is the V175 solar movement, accurate to within +- 15 seconds across a month. 

Seiko Prospex World Time SSG015 Solar Chronograph

And very last on the list is another banger, the SSG015. This sleek timepiece embodies a sporty aesthetic, featuring a refined black ion-finish stainless steel case and a stylish brown leather strap. The black dial showcases a convenient date calendar, enhanced by Lumibrite hands and markers for better visibility.

Powered by the caliber 8B92 solar quartz movement, you need not worry about obtaining a battery. Furthermore, this movement allows you to measure a 1/5-second increment chrono and displays a 24-hour indicator. This entire movement is radio-controlled, so you will never be inaccurate, and with the ability to track 24 timezones, that’ll come in handy! 

Sure, with a size of 45mm, it certainly isn’t a viable option for most, but by making it larger, Seiko ensures the dial isn’t too busy and displays all its functionality with ease. 

Conclusion

Seiko might be best known for its divers, but these chronos are stellar. There is an option for each of us, no matter which time bracket we fall into. If you prefer something sportier, there are diver chronos. Something more classy? The new Presage chronographs would keep you company. Lastly, there are plenty of otherworldly options for you to get at a very reasonable price. 

Quartz watches almost put mechanical watches out of business during the late 1960s and early ’70s. While originally priced as premium products competing with mechanical watches, they quickly became cheaper and easier to mass produce. They were also much more reliable, durable, and accurate than mechanical watches, which was a priority to most buyers as timepieces still had the primary function of telling the time during this period. 

Quartz watches only had one practical shortcoming compared to mechanical watches: the battery needed to be replaced. Early quartz watches were not as efficient as the ones we have today, often requiring a battery replacement every six months, frequent enough to be problematic when a mechanical watch could easily go a few years without service. 

Additionally, early and high-end quartz movements were built to be serviceable, in addition to the frequent battery changes. That meant while they were more robust, reliable, and accurate, there was a period of time when quartz watches would require more frequent trips to the local watchmaker. 

Seiko sought to find a solution to this. What if a quartz watch had a battery that didn’t need to be replaced? Especially if the watch still had to be serviced? While solar-powered watches introduced in the 1970s offered a relatively worry-free wearing experience, the power cell would need to be replaced every 10 years. Seiko wanted to focus on producing a watch with serviceable parts instead of replaceable ones. 

The History Seiko Kinetic Watches

With the goal of reducing the environmental impact of mass-produced quartz watches, Seiko began developing movements that could be wound like a traditional mechanical watch but utilized electricity, providing the reliability and accuracy of quartz watches. Seiko began the development of a quartz movement that did not rely on a conventional battery in 1983. 

The first of these watches that were commercially available was the SBAD001 and SBAD003. Released in late 1986, these watches were the first of their kind. Inside of these was the 8T23 movement, a movement where the generator for the capacitor was hand-wound. 

In addition to telling the time, these two references had day and date displays, along with a full-charge indicator light at six o’clock. Upon full charge, the movement had 72 hours of power reserve; however, it took three minutes of continuous winding to reach a full charge.

The relatively short battery life compared to the amount of winding required made this watch a relative commercial flop, and Seiko discontinued the watch after only one year. 

In January 1988, Seiko released the first “AGS” quartz watch, which stood for “Automatic Generating System”. Instead of being manually wound, a rotor similar to those found on automatic mechanical watches powered the generator. 

These watches were a marked improvement over the manually wound caliber. Seiko succeeded in making a more ecologically minded quartz-regulated movement and earned Germany’s Blue Angel Mark for sustainable products.

Seiko renamed the “AGS” line to “Kinetic” in 1997. Seiko also released a variety of styles and complications, including the first AGS diver in 1992, the AGS “Flightmaster,” which included a GMT, and the first Kinetic chronograph in 2000. 

In 1999, Seiko introduced a pause feature that would internally track the time while pausing the hands when not in use to save battery life. When the watch was worn again, the movement would correct the hands to the present time.  Many watches in the Kinetic line have display casebacks, allowing the owner to view the movement, showing off the rotor that gave power to the movement.

As of 2021, it appears that Seiko has begun to phase out the Kinetic line, with no new models being introduced and limited availability. Entirely speculation, but this is likely because of the developments in solar technology, along with the development of higher-end quartz calibers that are more serviceable than those produced in the 1970s and 80s.  

How Seiko Kinetic Watches Work

Seiko’s Kinetic movements are fairly unique in that they are “wound” similar to a mechanical watch. When “winding” the watch, the turn of the crown or the movement rotor turns a small electrical generator that charges a capacitor.

The movement is then run off of the capacitor, and the quartz movement runs the same as any other quartz movement. Because the capacitor is able to be recharged, battery replacements are no longer necessary. 

While the first watch with this technology was hand-wound, Seiko later released a movement with automatic winding only and then one with both manual and automatic winding. With the automatic rotor, the rotor turns a gear train, multiplying the speed of the rotor spinning by one hundred times, creating a current that then charges the capacitor, which powers the circuits for the analog time display.

While the first watches to use this technology could only run for a few days, the technology improved, and modern Seiko Kinetic watches can run for up to six months on a full charge.

They also started as simple movements, only displaying the time, day and date, but later progressed to perpetual calendars, chronographs, and gmt movements. Similar to the rest of Seiko’s catalog, the brand released a multitude of models, ranging from quite dressy and formal to sporty and avant-garde. 

Other Seiko Collections

While there has been some overlap between Seiko Kinetic watches and their other lines, currently, there are no Kinetic-powered watches in the current catalog. Lines that are part of the main Seiko line-up currently are Seiko 5, Prospex, Presage, and Astron. 

The Seiko 5 focuses on Seiko’s entry-level offerings. Based on the five attributes of offering water resistance, an automatic movement, day and date function, a recessed crown at four o’clock, and a case and crown built for durability. 

While some watches have strayed from the four o’clock crown and day and date function, timepieces within this collection continue to offer a great deal of value for beginning collectors or those looking for an affordable piece to add to their collection.

The Prospex range focuses on watches purpose-built for sporting activities. The most famous are the dive watches in the range, ranging from affordable quartz models to higher-end Spring Drive driven pieces; they are all built to withstand the trials of underwater adventures. Additionally, there are both automatic and quartz chronographs and GMT models. 

Seiko’s Presage line is their more formal and “go-anywhere-do-anything” oriented model. Still offering a variety of complications, including GMTs, chronographs, power reserve indicators, and simple time and date models, these models are great options should you need something more dress-oriented or simply what a more simple and versatile timepiece.

The Seiko Astron collection is where Seiko is really pushing its quartz technology. Models in this collection are radio/satellite controlled, meaning they receive an input signal to synchronize the time, ensuring accurate time telling. Various models include perpetual calendars, world time functions, chronographs, and alarms. 

While initially quite large, Seiko has been working on making them more wearable in recent years, making them ideal for world travelers or watch enthusiasts interested in the most cutting-edge time-telling technology. Additionally, if you are obsessed with accuracy, these watches are worth looking at. 

12 Seiko Kinetic Watches To Know

While far from a comprehensive list, the watches listed below feature highlights from Seiko’s Kinetic powered watches.

Seiko Kinetic Dive Watch SKA371

This black-dialed dive watch features Seiko’s 5M62 kinetic-powered quartz movement. It features a 6-month power reserve, with a pusher at 2 o’clock that allows you to check the power reserve. The watch additionally features a date at 3 o’clock, is rated to +/- 15 seconds a month, has 6 jewels, and is 4.3mm thick. 

The stainless steel case of the SKA371 measures 42.5mm wide, 14mm thick, 47mm lug-to-lug, and has a 20mm lug width. The black unidirectional bezel has a lume pip at 12 o’clock, and the dial is covered by a Hardlex crystal.

The watch comes with a stainless steel bracelet. The SKA371 has been discontinued, but the last published list price was 550 USD. Models continue to be available on the second hand market.  

Seiko Kinetic Prospex SUN023 GMT

Part of the Prospex collection, this tool-focused diver features a 47.5mm wide PVD-coated stainless steel case that is 15mm thick, has 24mm lugs, and measures 51mm lug-to-lug. The black dial features plenty of lume and bright orange and blue accents. 

The unidirectional dive bezel also features orange numerals, tying in with the minute hand. The blue 24-hour indications coordinate with the 24-hour hand, making reading both elapsed time and the second time zone a breeze. 

Inside is the 5M85 movement. Similar to the 5M62 in dimensions and accuracy, it also features six months of power reserve and a power reserve indication feature by pushing the 2 o’clock pusher. The movement allows for independent setting of both the main hour hand (which is used to also adjust the date) and the 24-hour hand is set with the main hands.

The local hand jumps while maintaining the timekeeping function, preventing the need to reset the watch every time the owner jumps timezones. The case is water resistant to 200 meters and has a sapphire crystal covering the dial. The watch comes with a rubber strap. 

While large and featuring a bold color scheme, the SUN023 makes an ideal summer travel watch. At the time of its release, the retail price was 675 USD. 

Seiko Kinetic Perpetual Premier SNP161

Seiko’s Premier line features bold case designs that manage to make a bold statement while being dressy in appearance. The SNP161 combines a perpetual calendar with a large date display with their Kinetic movement technology. The stainless steel case measures 43mm wide, 12mm thick, 48.4mm lug-to-lug, and has a 22mm wide steel bracelet.

Inside is the 7D56 Kinetic movement, which has a rated accuracy of +/-15 seconds a month, has 16 jewels, and measures 6.1mm thick. There is a power save function, which stops the hands after 24 hours of no movement. The blue dial features textured patterns, sword hands, and baton markers. The last published retail price was 950 USD. 

Seiko Kinetic Recraft SKA705

The Seiko Recraft collection focuses on a casual retro-oriented design influenced by Seiko’s back catalog. The SKA705 features a black ion-plated stainless steel case that measures 42mm wide, 12mm thick and has 22mm lugs. The watch comes with a nylon pass-through strap.  The case is rated to 100 meters of water resistance. 

The black dial features yellow accents, with white-colored lume on the hands and indices. The dial is covered by a Hardlex mineral crystal. Inside is the Seiko 5M82 caliber, with a date at the 4:30 position. This movement features the same power reserve feature by pushing the pusher at 2 o’clock and has a 6-month power reserve. The last published retail price for the Seiko Kinetic Recraft SKA705 was 325 USD. 

Seiko Kinetic Premier Perpetual Novak Djokovic Special Edition SNP149P2

Made as a special edition for Seiko ambassador and tennis star Novak Djokovic. Featuring the same case design and movement as the SNP161, the SNP149P2 features a black dial with a striped dial decoration, alternating rose gold batons with Roman numerals, along with rose gold hands and subdials.

The crown is also rose gold plated, tying together the dial elements to the outer case. The watch is attached to a 22mm alligator patterned leather strap with a deployant buckle. The last published retail price for the Seiko SNP149P2 was 800 USD.

Seiko Kinetic Velatura Direct Drive SRH013

Seiko’s Velatura collection was originally intended as Seiko’s sailing-oriented collection. Boasting water resistance, and sporting designs, their water fairing intentions were clear. The SRH013 has a black IP-coated stainless steel case that measures 43mm wide and 13mm thick. Behind the sapphire crystal is a black dial with yellow accents.

The subdial at 4:30 displays the day of the week, with a power reserve at 9 o’clock and the date at six o’clock. The watch is rated to 100 meters of water resistance and comes on a rubber strap, backing up the water sport-oriented design. Inside is the Seiko caliber 5D44. The last published retail price was 1395 USD.

Seiko Kinetic Coutura Retrograde SRN066

The Coutura collection consists of sporty designs with integrated straps and bracelets. Intended to be elegant yet bold, watches within this collection are intended to be capable of daily wear while fitting into a variety of situations. 

The SRN066 has a 43mm black ion-plated stainless steel case and integrated bracelet, and a rose gold plated bezel. The case measures 12.1mm thick. The black dial with rose gold hands and indices is covered by a Hardlex mineral crystal. 

Inside is the Seiko Caliber 5M84, which can be seen through the display caseback. In addition to the time and date, there is a retrograde day display between four and six o’clock and has a 6-month power reserve. The watch is rated to 100 meters of water resistance, making it suitable for water activities. 

While the Coutura collection is still on Seiko’s websites, the Kinetic movement loaded models seem to be discontinued, with the focus shifted to solar-powered movements. The last published retail price of the SRN066 was 495 USD.

Seiko Kinetic Premier Moonphase SRX015

Another complicated watch from the Premier collection, the SRX015 boasts a moonphase function. The caliber 5D88 displays the time, with a date subdial at three o’clock, a 24-hour indicator and day sub-dial at six o’clock, and a power reserve indicator for the one-month power reserve at nine o’clock. The silver textured dial alternates Roman numerals and stick indices for the hour markers. 

The 42.5mm wide steel case is 14mm thick and comes with a 22mm wide steel bracelet. With a sapphire crystal and 100 meters of water resistance, it will be more than capable of daily wear and water activities. When last available, the retail price was 1195 USD.

Seiko Kinetic Prospex GMT SUN065

The Seiko Kinetic Prospex GMT SUN065 shares the same case and movement as the SUN023 covered earlier in this article. Instead of the black case and bold colors on the dial, the SUN065 is a PADI special edition, sticking with the blue and red color scheme associated with the organization. 

PADI stands for the Professional Association of Diving Instructors, an organization founded in 1966 by John Cornin and Ralph Erickson. It is a group dedicated to the training and education of divers, ranging from entry-level courses to specialized skills and certifications. As of 2022, their work has issued 29 million certifications.

The Seiko Prospex SUN065 has a 47.5mm wide stainless steel case that has both brushed and polished surfaces with a blue bezel insert. The blue dial has silver indices filled with lume and red accents coordinating with the 24-hour hand. The pusher at 2 o’clock is coated and colored blue, tying together the bezel and dial with the case.  The Seiko Kinetic Prospex GMT SUN065’s last published MSRP was 750 USD.

Seiko Kinetic Titanium SKA495

While most of the models mentioned have been part of the higher-end Seiko collections, the SKA495 is a more entry-level offering from Seiko, allowing collectors to obtain a Kinetic powered watch and a titanium case and bracelet. The last published MSRP was 450 USD.

The titanium case measures 40mm wide and 12mm thick and comes with an integrated titanium bracelet. Inside is the Seiko Caliber 5M62, offering 6 months of power reserve and a power reserve display function by pressing the crown at two o’clock. The case is water resistant to 100 meters, making it more than suitable for daily wear.

The dark gray dial has gold-colored hands and indices and is covered by a Hardlex crystal. With reasonable dimensions and great specifications, the Seiko SKA495 is a good candidate for a go anywhere, do anything watch. 

Seiko Kinetic Sportura SUN015

The Seiko Sportura took its design inspiration from the automotive industry, creating timepieces that were both streamlined and futuristic in appearance. 

The SUN015 represents a more restrained representation from the collection, but still quite bold. Measuring 45mm wide, 13mm thick, 51mm lug-to-lug, and coming on a 21mm wide steel bracelet, it will have plenty of presence on the wrist. Inside is the 5M85 movement seen in the other GMT watches mentioned, offering the date and second time zone in addition to displaying the time. 

The case is rated to 100 meters of water resistance with a screw-down crown, and the black dial with lumed hands and indices is covered by a sapphire crystal. The black bezel is made of ceramic, adding another scratch-resistant material to the front of the watch. When released, the SUN015 had a retail price of 750 USD.

Seiko Kinetic SMY139

Another lower-priced offering from Seiko, the SMY139 is more utilitarian-focused in its design. Featuring a black ion-plated 41mm wide case and 20mm bracelet, and a black dial with large lumed indices and 12, 6, and 9 numerals, the military inspiration is clear. 

Measuring 11mm thick, rated to 100 meters of water resistance, and coming with a Hardlex crystal, the tough exterior is svelte enough to stay out of harm’s way while still handling some rough situations. 

Inside is the 5M83 caliber, which is the same as the 5M82, but with both the day and date displayed. When originally released, the Seiko Kinetic SMY139 retailed for 380 USD. 

Conclusion

Seiko’s pursuit of accuracy, reliability, and sustainability led them to create the AGS system, which would later be renamed Kinetic. These movements provided the accuracy, durability, and convenience of quartz while reducing reliance on disposable batteries and the convenience of an automatic movement, meaning the wearer’s movement would provide power for the watch. 

With solar technology improving, the Kinetic movements have been phased out of Seiko’s current collection. For collectors interested in different types of movement technology, adding a Seiko Kinetic or two to the collection can add some diversity and intrigue to the more common battery-powered and mechanical spring-driven movements. 

Originally released in 1982, the Seiko H558 was the first of its kind: a hybrid dive watch interweaving both digital and analog technology. It was and is befitting of Arnold Schwarzenegger, who famously portrayed T-800 in the iconic Terminator. 

Like the watch, he was two technologies in one package: man and machine. Though he didn’t wear the timepiece in the post-apocalyptic sci-fi, he first wore it a year later in Commando (1985) and then again in Predator (1987). This gave the watch a cult-like following, and it’s been popular ever since. 

Seiko H558: A Purpose Built Machine

The year is 1982. Michael Jackson’s groundbreaking album “Thriller” is released. Spielberg’s extraordinary film, E.T. the Extra-Terrestrial, hits the silver screen. The cost of a gallon of gas is 90 cents, and the average monthly rent is $320. It’s been 10 years since Hamilton released the first commercially available digital wristwatch, the Pulsar. 

And Seiko is about to pull a rabbit out of a hat. The behemoth of the watch industry releases a larger-than-life watch that blends both digital and analog technology—something that’s never been done before. It’s pure horological magic, folks.

The H558 was built to endure the toughest of adventures. That it ended up adorning the wrist of one of the most iconic action stars and bodybuilders of all time is pure coincidence. During development, Seiko’s engineers subjected it to extreme temperatures, ranging from bone-chilling -40°C to scorching 60°C, ensuring its capabilities. 

Scaling the heights of Mount Everest and conquering the North and South Poles, the “Arnie” accompanied intrepid explorers, becoming an emblem of human endeavor. Equipped with features like three time zones, a chronograph, an alarm, and a trusty backlight, this multifaceted “tool” watch was a true purpose-built machine, embodying a piece of history and a timeless connection to the spirit of adventure. 

Seiko Arnie: A Closer Look

Seiko fans might notice the similarities between the H558-5009 and the Seiko Tuna. The architecture of the two watches is strikingly similar, with the rotating bezel, tiny lugs, outer shroud, and diving capabilities.

The Arnie is, in fact, part of Seiko’s Tuna family of watches, and it offers a design language that is polarizing to some but downright delicious to others. Oh—It’s worth mentioning that it has a case diameter of 45mm. *Pause for dramatic effect.*

With today’s watches trending smaller and smaller, it seems that most modern collectors have a downright aversion to watches that are 42mm in diameter, never mind 45mm. But then you take a closer look at the dimensions. It has a 46.5mm lug-to-lug and a case thickness of around 11mm. 

In actuality, the 1982 timepiece wears closer to the dimensions of a 40mm watch than a 45mm watch, but that’s due to the virtually nonexistent lugs. It is a watch with a larger-than-life dial presence. But people didn’t buy this watch as a svelte watch that disappears on the wrist; they did so because they wanted to make a statement.

They wanted to be like Arnold and flex for all the world to see. The original “Arnie” also featured a durable plastic bezel shroud protecting the 60-minute diver’s bezel, offering unprecedented durability. The watch boasted both analog and digital displays, with a black dial featuring luminous markers and hands for optimal legibility.

Its quartz movement, the Seiko caliber H558, ensured accurate timekeeping and powered various functions such as a chronograph, alarm, and calendar. The Seiko “Arnie” also incorporated a scratch-resistant Hardlex crystal, providing durability and excellent visibility. With a water resistance of approximately 150 meters, a robust stainless steel bezel, and a comfortable rubber strap, the Seiko “Arnie” was a tank for your wrist!

“I’ll Be Back” – The Discontinuation of the Seiko Arnie

The H558 embodies Arnold in such a way that it exemplifies one of his most famous lines: “I’ll Be Back”. The H558 was discontinued in 1990—the year I was born! A lot of time has passed since then, and the secondary market is the only place serious collectors can attain the original today.

As is typical with a popular watch that has been discontinued for over three decades, pickings are slim, with most timepieces being well-worn and in need of some sort of repair. They are priced from around $500 into the thousands, depending on the condition of the watch. 

You may be looking at the price and thinking, well, dang. I’ll never be able to pony up that much money for a watch, never mind a used one. How am I ever going to channel my inner Arnold now? It would take Seiko twenty-nine years to dig back into the archives and give us a reissue worthy of its predecessor. Enter the Seiko Prospex SNJ025. 

Return of an Icon: The Seiko Prospex SNJ025 

In 2019, Seiko delighted its customer base with a reissue of the “Arnie.” As watches have typically grown over the years—though smaller timepieces are now trending—this new iteration is quite a bit larger than its predecessor.

But large is appropriate for a watch that is nicknamed after Mr. Olympia! It also is packing new and exciting technology, as you may expect for a timepiece being released in the modern day and age. The SNJ025 has a case diameter of 48mm. It has a lug-to-lug of 50.5mm and a case thickness of around 14mm.

In creating a larger watch, Seiko is carefully crafting the narrative around this piece: it is big, bold, badass. I have tried the watch on, and while I might be able to pull it off with my 6.5-inch wrists, I’ll leave it to larger, burlier customers. 

It has a subtle beauty about it that’s hard to explain. It has two extended pushers at 10 and 8 o’clock and three recessed ones at 9, 2, and 3. That’s a lot of hardware for one watch, but it all comes together into something that gives you that warm feeling inside.

You suddenly remember sitting beside a sibling and listening to E.T. phone home for the first time. You remember playing with Pogs and reading the back of the cereal box. True to the original, the “Arnie” offers an amalgamation of technology. It has an analog handset, a digital display at the 12, and a new caliber: the H851, a solar-powered movement with an accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month and offers 6 months of power when fully charged.

The analog and digital times are now automatically synchronized, which makes setting the time all the more exciting. Seiko has upped Arnie’s water resistance to 200m, now making it ISO 6452 certified. With an MSRP of $525, on sale now at ExquisiteTimepieces for $420, the SNJ025 offers incredible value for the price. You have an ISO-certified timepiece with loads of features, including an alarm, timer, GMT, solar capabilities, and robust build quality.

I don’t think, for the price, you can find a watch packed with as many features. If you are looking for something durable to set and forget, you’d be remiss not to consider the Seiko SNJ025. As is the case with all new Seiko watches, the SNJ025 includes a two-year manufacturer warranty. 

Closing Thoughts

If ever there were a watch to wear for the end of the world, when the robots take over, I can’t think of a better one to wear than the SNJ025. Sure, there are G-Shocks and other purpose-built watches that would be appropriate. 

Still, there’s something about the raw ruggedness of the Arnie that just calls to me, that beckons to a time when the digital and analog worlds of yesteryear intersected in a way that only a wristwatch can possibly elicit in today’s complex world of digital insanity. Watches are, beyond being a fashion statement and timekeeping tool, meant to start conversations. 

I can’t think of a better conversation starter than Arnold Schwarzenegger, the nostalgia of the 1980s, and digital, analog, and solar technologies, all in one tiny, shiny package. Arnold’s back and he’s not going anywhere anytime soon!

Seiko has a rich history spanning over a century. Throughout this time, their watches have earned a well-deserved reputation for being affordable, durable, and exceptional timepieces. As a proud owner of several Seiko watches, I can personally vouch for these qualities.

However, Seiko sometimes goes unnoticed due to its Asian manufacturing origins and affordable price range. Some individuals perceive Seiko watches as disposable timepieces that lose value once they stop functioning correctly. Nevertheless, we aim to delve into this perception and debunk any doubts about the quality of Seiko watches.

Without further delay, let’s thoroughly examine the various aspects of the Seiko brand, including its background and the quality it offers, and determine why you should seriously consider owning one of its remarkable timepieces.

Background & History of Seiko

Seiko’s history dates back to 1881 when Kintaro Hattori, a 21-year-old entrepreneur in Tokyo, started a small jewelry and watch business. This makes Seiko one of the oldest watch brands still actively manufacturing timepieces. In 1892, Kintaro Hattori established the ‘Seikosha’ factory, initially focused on producing wall clocks.

Seeking to expand the range of their production, Kintaro Hattori introduced the brand’s first pocket watch, known as “The Timekeeper,” in 1895. Taking another significant step in 1913, Seiko created the first Japanese wristwatch called “The Laurel.” The production of the first Seiko-branded wristwatches began in 1924.

A pivotal moment in Seiko’s history came in 1969 with the introduction of the world’s first quartz watch, the Seiko Quartz Astron. Boasting an impressive accuracy rating of 5 seconds per month, this groundbreaking timepiece triggered the “Quartz Crisis.” It caused a significant disruption within the mechanical watch industry and led to the decline of many Swiss watch brands.

In the subsequent decades, Seiko has remained committed to innovation, achieving several notable milestones:

• In 1986, they established the world’s first Diver’s watch capable of reaching depths of 1000m, featuring a ceramic outer case.
• Seiko was chosen as the Official Timer for the Olympic Games in 1992, a testament to their timekeeping precision and reliability.
• In 1999, they introduced the revolutionary Spring Drive Movement, combining mechanical and quartz technologies for enhanced accuracy and smooth sweeping seconds hand motion.
• Seiko’s commitment to excellence was recognized in 2014 when they won the prestigious “Petite Aiguille” prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, often referred to as the Oscar Awards of watchmaking.

These accomplishments demonstrate Seiko’s unwavering dedication to pushing boundaries and delivering exceptional timepieces.

The above details only scratch the surface of Seiko’s rich history and achievements. For a more in-depth understanding, I recommend visiting their official website, where you can explore the comprehensive timeline.

Having touched upon Seiko’s remarkable history, it’s worth emphasizing that affordability remains a defining characteristic of the brand. Even today, Seiko continues to offer timepieces that are accessible to a wide range of budgets. 

Additionally, Seiko has established various tiers within its lineup, including the Seiko 5, Seiko Presage, and Seiko Prospex collections. This diversification enables Seiko to cater to different price points, making them an excellent choice for both entry-level and avid watch collectors alike.

Are Seiko Watches Good?

Below I will outline some characteristics that distinguish Seiko watches from other Japanese and even Swiss watch brands:

Design Variety

Seiko offers an extensive range of watch designs thanks to the multitude of models and collections spanning several decades. With such a diverse selection, there is a Seiko watch to suit every individual’s taste and style. Seiko timepieces come in various shapes and sizes, offering a wide array of options.

Some collectors even specialize exclusively in Seiko watches, as the brand provides more than enough options to keep them engaged. From the iconic SKX, Tuna, Turtle, Captain Willard, Pogue, and many more, Seiko offers a rich collection of distinctive and renowned timepieces.

Excellent Affordable Timepieces

Seiko boasts an extensive collection of watches, many of which offer an exceptional cost-to-value ratio. A prime example is the Seiko 5 collection, followed by the Prospex and Presage collections. Seiko 5 timepieces can be found for as low as under $100 if you search diligently.

While the Prospex and Presage collections are priced higher, they also offer enhanced build quality. This means that Seiko provides excellent value for your money, ensuring you get a timepiece that combines affordability with impressive craftsmanship.

Durable Watches

Let’s focus on the fundamental Seiko 5 collection, which encompasses five key characteristics, one of them being water resistance. Seiko has set a requirement that their Seiko 5 watches must meet water resistance standards suitable for everyday individuals. This feature ensures that the timepiece can withstand challenging conditions, particularly when exposed to underwater atmospheric pressures.

Moreover, certain watches from Seiko’s Prospex collection exhibit even stricter tolerances, offering water resistance of up to 300m. Depending on the specific Seiko collection you choose, you can be assured of owning a resilient and robust timepiece that can endure various demanding situations.

In-House Mechanical Movements

Seiko utilizes in-house movements across their range of mechanical timepieces, from their affordable models to their high-end offerings. Among their in-house movements are the 4R36, 6R35, and 8L35 calibers, and many more.

This is truly remarkable when compared to Swiss watch brands, as Seiko possesses the technical prowess to manufacture movements for all tiers within their watch collection hierarchy. In order to acquire a Swiss or even German watch with an in-house mechanical movement, one would typically have to consider brands like Tudor or NOMOS, with starting price points of around $1,500.

Thus, Seiko’s ability to produce their own movements across their entire lineup provides exceptional value and showcases their dedication to craftsmanship and innovation.

Pop Culture Stigma

Seiko timepieces have made appearances in numerous iconic movies, adding to their allure. For example, Sigourney Weaver wore the Seiko Giugiaro in the movie “Aliens,” while Robert Redford sported the recognizable Seiko SKX009 in “All is Lost”. 

Arnold Schwarzenegger famously donned the Seiko H558 in the film “Predator,” and Martin Sheen prominently wore the Seiko 6105-8119 (known as the Captain Willard) in “Apocalypse Now.” These movie appearances have significantly influenced the public’s perception of the Seiko brand.

As a result of such influential marketing, Seiko watches have experienced increased demand, with certain models becoming more sought-after and harder to obtain than others. The power of marketing has elevated Seiko to a status that transcends popular culture and society. Even your everyday aunt or uncle is likely familiar with Seiko and may have owned one of their timepieces.

Notable Seiko Watch Collections

Here are some of the most noteworthy Seiko collections, each one featuring tons of models for you to choose from:

Seiko 5

Why is there a “5” in Seiko 5, and what does it signify? Seiko introduced this affordable collection over 50 years ago, encompassing five key features that were traditionally associated with more luxurious watches at the time. These features, presented in no particular order, include:

1. Automatic movement
2. Day-Date complication
3. Water resistance
4. Recessed crown
5. Stainless steel case and bracelet

Seiko 5 watches were designed to offer a combination of these desirable attributes, making them accessible to a wider audience without compromising on quality. The inclusion of these features has been a defining characteristic of the Seiko 5 collection, contributing to its popularity and enduring appeal.

My experience with the Seiko 5 comes in the form of the Seiko 5 SNKL23. I owned it for a brief period before passing it on to another watch collector. During my time with it, I found the black dial with multiple textures and dauphine hands to be simply stunning.

The case finishing was impressive, especially considering its affordable price, featuring a combination of brushed and polished finishes. Additionally, the exhibition case back allowed for a glimpse of the automatic movement.

As expected, the letdown of the SNKL23 watch, which is common in affordable timepieces, was the stainless steel bracelet. Watch brands often cut corners in this aspect. The bracelet had hollow end links, folded-over steel links, and a pressed steel clasp.

Nevertheless, owning the SNKL23 was an enjoyable experience, and including a Seiko 5 in one’s watch-collecting journey is worthwhile. Some popular Seiko 5 models worth mentioning are the SNZF17 (Sea Urchin), SRP series (5KX), and SNZH57 (Fifty Fathoms Homage).

In summary, Seiko 5 watches provide exceptional value for money, with prices starting as low as $100 (on the secondary market, of course). Where else can you find a watch that offers the five key features, along with original designs and a rich brand heritage? Seiko 5 truly stands out in the market.

Seiko Prospex

Prospex is simply a shortened form of “Professional Specification.” This collection represents Seiko’s professional and tool watches. According to Seiko, the Prospex line “challenges every limit, with a collection of timepieces for sports lovers and adventure seekers, whether in the water, in the sky, or on land”.  I’m sure you understand the essence of it.

The Prospex collection has seen a price increase in recent years as Seiko has elevated its positioning, and the Seiko 5 collection has expanded into the territory once occupied by Prospex. Prospex watches typically start from $400 and go higher, especially for their mechanical timepieces.

However, on the secondary market, you can find them at lower prices. Seiko has categorized the Prospex collection into Sea, Land, Speedtimer, and LX lines (which feature higher-end timepieces with Spring Drive movements). The primary focus lies within the first three categories, as they hold historical and aesthetic significance for Seiko. 

The more affordable Prospex models generally house the 4R35 or 4R36 movements, although Seiko is gradually incorporating more of the newer 6R-based movements into the collection. The 6R-based movements, such as the 6R35, offer impressive features like a 70-hour power reserve while maintaining a frequency of 21,600 beats per hour.

Out of all the Seiko collections listed, I have personally owned the most watches from the Seiko Prospex collection, as I am particularly fond of tool watches. I still own the Seiko Alpinist SPB209 and the Seiko “Baby Tuna” SRP637, both designed for specific uses for mountaineering and diving. Additionally, I plan to wear my Seiko Alpinist when I visit Japan in the near future.

Some notable watches from the Prospex collection include the Seiko Orange Monster SRP309, the Seiko Turtle SRPE03, the Seiko Alpinist SPB121, and the Seiko Marine Master SLA0 models.

Seiko Presage

Seiko describes their Presage Collection as a “combination of Japanese aesthetic sense, traditional craftsmanship, and Seiko’s mechanical watchmaking skills, resulting in an original collection that offers Japanese beauty, quality, and long-lasting performance”.

In short, Presage consists of dress watches that showcase Seiko’s distinct style and exquisite craftsmanship. The Seiko Presage collection is continuously expanding, leading to subdivisions within the collection. These include the Craftsmanship Series, Sharp Edged Series, Cocktail Time, Style 60’s, and Inspired by Japanese Gardens.

Personally, I have a preference for the Craftsmanship and Sharp Edged Series, as these collections are crafted to a higher standard. They often feature sapphire crystals and employ multiple finishing techniques on the watch cases. These timepieces are aesthetically pleasing and feel more valuable than their retail prices suggest, offering great value for money.

I previously owned the Presage SPB047J1/SARX049 from the Craftsmanship Series, which features a white enamel dial, blued hands, and Roman numerals on the dial. 

My only criticism of this watch (and most Presage watches) is that they tend to be slightly thick for dress timepieces. Dress watches are typically slim to fit comfortably under a shirt cuff. Although not excessively thick, my Seiko Presage would barely fit under most cuffs, but the 12.4mm thickness became apparent when viewed from the side profile.

Presage timepieces are generally priced at $400 and above. If Seiko continues to incorporate sapphire crystals, timeless designs, and neutral case sizes (under 42mm), these watches are excellent additions to any collection.

Some iconic models from the Presage collection include the Urushi dial Seiko SARW013, the limited edition blue enamel dial Seiko SPB069 and the Seiko Cocktail SRPB43J1.

Seiko Astron

Out of all the Seiko collections listed here, the Astron is the least familiar to me due to my preference for mechanical movement timepieces. However, this collection has been in existence since December 25, 1969. As mentioned earlier, the Astron’s introduction was a significant milestone in quartz technology for watches and had a profound impact on timekeeping. 

In the current iterations of the Astron, the timepieces incorporate solar and GPS technology. This combination of technologies proves to be incredibly useful. Seiko explains that “the Astron adjusts to your time zone at the touch of a button and, by harnessing energy from light alone, it never requires a battery change”.

Seiko designed the Astron with technological accuracy in mind. The GPS function in these timepieces automatically sets the time once a day, ensuring exceptional timekeeping precision. Additionally, the Astron is solar-powered, meaning that exposure to sunlight is sufficient to keep the watches charged and running.

Furthermore, a remarkable feature of the Astron is its ability to recognize all time zones on Earth through GPS technology. This makes the Astron an ideal watch for travelers.

In terms of pricing, the Astron belongs to the more premium range of Seiko collections, with its superior build quality and innovative technology. The retail price for Astron timepieces starts at $1,600. Some notable models from the Astron collection include the SSH100 series and the octagonal-shaped SBXY061.

King Seiko

King Seiko is the most high-end collection of mechanical timepieces from Seiko, as listed here (excluding Grand Seiko and Credor). According to Seiko, “King Seiko is a mechanical watch brand that offers beautifully designed and finished timepieces with high accuracy.”

Seiko recently reintroduced the King Seiko collection in 2021. Initially, King Seiko models were equipped with 6R movements, which received criticism due to the higher price point of King Seiko watches. To address these concerns, Seiko now offers high-end 6L movements (based on Grand Seiko Calibres) in King Seiko models.

The King Seiko collection pays tribute to Seiko’s heritage and embraces classic and elegant design elements. While the dials of King Seiko watches maintain a basic design, the highlight lies in the Zaratsu-like polished finish on the watch cases. 

This meticulous finishing technique creates multiple polished facets that shimmer when light hits them. Also, the hour and minute hands are finished to a high standard, creating beautiful facets and sharp edges. King Seiko timepieces evoke a sense of nostalgia, reminiscent of what one might envision their grandfather wearing back in the day.

One criticism regarding the pricing of King Seiko timepieces is that many of them have a retail price above $2,500. At that price point, one is in close proximity to Grand Seiko Quartz timepieces, which offer a higher level of craftsmanship.

Although King Seiko is a relatively recent reintroduction from Seiko, notable modern timepieces in their collection include the SJE087 (a recreation of the King Seiko KSK) and the SPB291 (Seiko Boutique Edition with violet dial).

Do Seiko Watches Hold Their Value?

First and foremost, it’s important to note that watches should not be considered traditional investments like stocks or bonds. They are meant to be enjoyed and experienced. While Seiko watches are not investments in the conventional sense, there are certain models that have increased in value and become highly sought after. 

These are primarily limited edition timepieces, such as the Zimbe editions and vintage Seiko watches. The growing community of Seiko watch collectors and the brand’s rising popularity have contributed to the demand and collectability of these pieces.

I have personally owned several Seiko watches, and one that I regret selling is the Seiko Monster V2 (Made in Japan model). Since its discontinuation, prices for this watch have skyrocketed in the secondary market. The iconic orange dial color and the shark teeth-like hour markers make the Seiko Monster V2 highly sought after.

Another Seiko timepiece that increased in value is the Seiko 5 SNKL23, which Hodinkee described as “A Seventy-Five Dollar Watch That Looks Like A Million Bucks.” I sold it and made a small profit. These examples serve to illustrate that Seiko watches can retain value and potentially be seen as investments. However, it’s important to prioritize the enjoyment of owning watches and not solely focus on their investment potential.

Should You Buy a Seiko Watch?

My answer is a resounding “YES!” I have been collecting watches since 2014. In the famous words of Drake, I “started from the bottom” with Seiko and Orient timepieces. Seiko should unquestionably be a part of every collector’s watch collection and journey. 

It allows collectors to develop a deeper appreciation for their collection and the quality of timepieces available at various price points. Seiko can be seen as a rite of passage for collectors as they curate their collections and evolve over time.

Conclusion

In summary, Seiko watches are excellent due to their affordability, durability, and iconic status in popular culture. Having owned several Seiko watches myself, including the more budget-friendly models like the Monster, Baby Tuna, and Alpinist collections, I can confidently say that they make fantastic daily wear timepieces. 

However, it is important to address the perception that Seiko watches are solely inexpensive and lacking in technical sophistication. While Seiko does offer affordable options, their range also includes in-house movements, a diverse selection of timepieces, and impressive durability. These factors, coupled with their iconic designs, make Seiko watches a valuable addition to any collection. 

Therefore, watch collectors should wholeheartedly embrace and explore the Seiko brand, as it serves as an ideal starting point for anyone entering the world of watch collecting.