Category: Seiko

The year was 2020, and the vibes, as we used to say, were far from immaculate. The nation was paralyzed by the unknown while simultaneously infatuated with a man known as the Tiger King. 

As a watch enthusiast, I could hardly be bothered by the chaos of a global pandemic as I had my own crosses to bear (although I did get caught up in the Tiger King craze…..weird times!) I had important research to do! All of a sudden, “What watch would you wear in an apocalypse?” seemed a lot more pressing and a lot less hypothetical.

While searching for the piece that would accompany me through anything, I was immediately interested in a watch that would soon be released and set the watch world into a frenzy. The Seiko SPB143. 

It was far from the first time that Seiko released a reintroduction of their iconic 62MAS design, but it was the one that got it right. I immediately pressed pause on Netflix and did what any self-respecting watch enthusiast would do: I became obsessed!

A few months later, this watch was in my hands, and I was ready to go on some adventures, albeit socially distanced. Was this watch the perfect piece I dreamt it would be? Did I finally achieve Watch Nirvana and find my forever watch? Spoiler alert: No and no. Let’s take a look at this darling of the watch community nearly 4 years later and relive the journey.

About The Seiko SPB143

Before jumping into the recreation, we need to spend a little time appreciating the original. By 1965, many of the dive watches we know and love today were already in existence. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Rolex Submariner, and Omega Seamaster had already solidified themselves as the premier tools for professional divers. 

At the same time, the Zodiac Seawolf, as well as many other Skin diver watches, had carved out their own niche in the recreational side of the growing dive community. 

Seiko introduced their first dive watch, model 62MAS, which provided 150M of water resistance and a 37mm case dimension. The Gray dial and black rotating bezel helped to give this watch a unique look against its black-dialed competitors, but in terms of Seiko Divers, this was a very uniform design. 

It wasn’t until years later that the signature 4 O’Clock crown and cushion cases of the Seiko watches we know today became prevalent. The 62MAS is where it started, and if you are looking for a Seiko dive watch that looks and feels familiar, this is the design you’re after.

Case & Materials

The Seiko SPB143 is a 40.5mm dive watch closely resembling the color scheme of the original 62MAS. The Gray dial and 120-click black steel bezel help to give this watch a neutral color scheme that, outside of a formal event, never feels out of place. The look and dimension of this watch are what set it apart from previous iterations.

4 years ago, a modestly sized Seiko dive watch was a bit of a unicorn, especially at 13.2mm thick and 47mm lug to lug. Although slightly behind the trend of competitors like Tudor, this is the watch that opened up the likes of other small wrist-friendly watches, such as the SPB313.

Movement

The movement of the SPB series of watches is the Seiko 6R35, an In-House movement featuring a 70-hour power reserve and a surprisingly wide range of acceptable daily variance at -15/+25 seconds per day. 

I have owned several Seiko watches featuring this movement, and my feelings are somewhat mixed. If you are coming from a Sellita or ETA comparable movement, the accuracy will feel like a bit of a disappointment. What you lose in accuracy, however, you more than make up for in robustness. 

This movement is the epitome of a workhorse and will more than likely outlive you with even the slightest of care. Given the apocalyptic scenario, this criteria seemed far more important than a few seconds of accuracy at the time.

Dial

Adorning this watch, you will see Seiko’s legendary LumiBrite lume and dial finishing much more fitting of a watch 2x or 3x the price. The polished indexes are accented by baton-style hands featuring both mirrored and brushed finishes. The case finishing feels more industrial than something like what you would find with a Black Bay from Tudor. 

The Diashield coating provides an extra layer of protection, ensuring that, unlike the Black Bay, this Seiko will look this great 6 months or even 6 years down the line. The 200M of water resistance and date, either with or without lume plot given the year of production, ensure that you have an ISO-Certified dive watch capable of far more than 99.9% of us will ever throw at it.

Strap Options

The watch was originally sold with a solid stainless steel bracelet featuring the Diashield coating and a large diver’s extension. Combine this with the fact that the bracelet hardly tapered and had a very slight gap where the end link met the lugs, and I’d say this is where Seiko took a slight shortcut. This bracelet is usable and certainly better than anything you’d see on a Seiko dive watch from 5 previous, but it fell kind of flat for a $1,200 watch. 

Thankfully, this can be easily remedied with a cheap spring bar tool and one of the thousands of great NATO, rubber, or even leather straps (I’m not judging….just kidding, of course, I am judging). There are even several third-party bracelets with fitted end links that, although the color will be ever so slightly lighter, thanks to the lack of Diashield, fix a lot of the concerns with the OEM bracelet.

The Seiko SPB143 is a watch that I feel everyone needs to try. Is it perfect? Far from it. But will it make you question whether or not you need to spend more on a watch? I think it will. The level of watch sickness you find yourself inflicted with will determine if that feeling is fleeting or not. 

If you are looking for a tool watch that will be there through thick and thin and become a partner in your everyday adventures, the SPB143 will be hard to beat. If you are looking for a watch to help substitute the desire for another watch you have had your eye on, this will more than likely fall short of those expectations (in all honesty, even the watch you have had your eye on will fail to meet the unrealistic expectations we often put on them).

Should You Buy A Seiko SPB143?

Let’s pick back up with my story. Tiger King has been resumed, and I am back living my day-to-day life, albeit with a face mask and a newfound case of paranoia anytime someone comes near me. 

The Seiko SPB143 is accompanying me on most of my adventures (hiking, kayaking, biking, day drinking, all of the hobbies I excelled in during the pandemic), and for the most part, I was happy. If you keep this watch on your wrist and forget about it, it’s hard not to love. 

Unfortunately, this is where my story takes a turn from the happily-ever-after I expected. I found a new watch. This new watch had a better movement, slimmer proportions, a significantly better bracelet, and its own 2020 hype moment. 

That watch is, of course, the Black Bay 58 with the new blue dial. I foolishly thought that there was a world in which both of these beautiful dive watches could exist in my 3-watch collection. As it turns out I was wrong. 

I found myself favoring the Tudor for most of my adventures, and my one prized Seiko suddenly started collecting dust. Maybe it was the 3x price of the Tudor that made me feel as though I had to wear it, or perhaps it was just the fact that it solved many of the minor faults I found in the SPB143. Either way, a few short days later, I no longer owned what I once considered the perfect Seiko.

So, if it wasn’t for me, who exactly is the Seiko SPB143 for? This watch is an incredible option for someone looking for a watch with which to experience life. If the adventure is more important than the watch’s accuracy on your wrist while you do it, then you’ll love the watch’s robustness. As much as I wanted to be this type of enthusiast, I simply fell short. 

Seiko SPB143 Alternatives

When it was released in 2020, the SPB143 was a game changer. Its modest but thoughtfully considered design made the case and dial feel premium for a watch of $1,200. There was almost no competition or alternatives to consider. A lot has changed in four years. 

Japanese rival Citizen has introduced their own compact and robust dive watches, while the Swiss have managed to produce some great affordable alternatives thanks to the power of the Swatch group. As it turns out however, the Seiko SPB143’s greatest competition comes from within in the form of other Seiko dive watches.

Seiko Prospex SPB421 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation U.S Special Edition

In watch enthusiast circles, Seiko is known for doing 2 things extraordinarily well. First is creating stunning watch dials at affordable prices, and the second is releasing limited edition watches. Thankfully, with the SPB421, Seiko leans into both of their strengths to deliver a watch that is fundamentally the same as the SPB143, yet so different. 

The textured blue dial was designed to pay homage to the icy surface of the Alaska Moulins, which may or may not make you feel a certain way. If the creative marketing team at Seiko doesn’t have you sold, the Grand Seiko inspired textured blue dial certainly will!

Seiko Prospex SPB423 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation U.S Special Edition

Blue not your color? The Seiko SPB423 delivers the same functionality as the Seiko SPB143, with the dial texture of the previously mentioned SPB421, but delivers it in a stunning light to dark gray gradient dial.  If you love the functionality of the SPB143 but want a dial that provides a more interesting finish while still remaining neutral, this may be the version you are after.

Seiko Prospex SPB453 1965 Heritage Diver’s

In 2024, Seiko did something that very few watch enthusiasts saw coming. They provided a refresh to the 62MAS reintroduction of their Prospex line. The new SPB453 is very similar to the SPB143 line while sporting a more discrete 4:30 date window and a traditional black dial and bezel combo. The case is slightly reduced down to 40mm, while the lugs are slightly shorter, and the thickness is dropped down to 13mm. You’d be hard-pressed to pick the two apart in a lineup. That is, of course, until you slap the watch on. 

The stock bracelet, while not perfect, is a significant update and solves many of the minor annoyances with the original. If you are in the market for a Seiko SPB143 but want the most current spec with a refined execution, the SPB453 is an excellent option.

Seiko Prospex SPB455 Seiko Brand 100th Anniversary 1965 Heritage Diver’s Special Edition

Thanks to Seiko’s unwavering commitment to provide a dive watch for every watch enthusiast regardless of their personal style preference, we have the SPB455. This watch carries over all of the refinements of the previously mentioned SPB453 but adds a touch of gilt, and the dial and bezel are slightly muted to a gray charcoal color. There is no doubt that this iteration has its sights set directly on the original Tudor Black Bay 58, and given the price savings, it is certainly a worthy competitor.

Seiko Prospex SJE101 Marinemaster 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation

The Seiko SJE101 Marinemaster is the most interesting 62Mas reintroduction produced today. The refined styling matches more closely to a Rolex Submariner, While the pricing, at roughly $2,800, is a little more than 2x the SPB series and significantly less than anything produced by Rolex or even Tudor for that matter. 

The 6L37 movement powering this watch is a nice improvement from the 6R35 in the SPB143, but the accuracy is still noticeably behind anything produced by Hans Wilsdorf and company. If you look past the accuracy of the movement, this watch may be the biggest sleeper entry-level luxury watch on the market today!

Conclusion

So, there you have it! A long-winded recap of my adventure-ready watch, along with a few alternatives that certainly would have piqued my interest if they were around in 2020. The SPB143 is still a watch that I would recommend to any watch enthusiast. It is uncomplicated and really good at what it aims to be good at. 

The details that pushed me away from Seiko and into the arms of their Swiss rivals are trivial to most people, especially those with more sense than money. Thanks to my unnecessary Tudor upgrade, I have proven myself to no longer have either of those!

Happy watch hunting!

In the world of watches, most true aficionados have a diver or two in their collections. Although they have been replaced by dive computers and most dive watches never see any water other than in a thunderstorm, their style, reliability, and rugged history make them appealing. 

I have never been more than one meter below the surface, yet, I own four divers. They are among the favorites in my collection. I feel like an adventurer on dry land, even sitting at my desk when I wear a dive watch. That includes the Seiko SSK001.

About The Seiko SSK001

The Seiko SSK001 is part of the Seiko Sport 5 GMT collection. It’s an automatic diver with a GMT complication that looks fantastic with casual, smart casual, or business attire. Released in the spring of 2022, The Seiko Sport 5 SSK01 is a durable, reliable, and beautiful GMT timepiece. Best of all, you can get it for less than $500. That’s not a typo.. Let’s take a closer look. 

History of Seiko GMT Watches

Seiko has a long and proud history that began in 1881 when Kintaro Hattori began selling and repairing clocks and watches at a shop in Tokyo. Under the brand name Seikosha, Hattori began making clocks in 1892 and pocket watches in 1895.

Hattori created his first wristwatch, the Laurel in 1913 and in 1924, changed his company’s name to Seiko, thus beginning a tradition that continues to this day. The Seiko brand kept improving and releasing new and innovative watches. By the 1960s, the brand was producing chronographs and dive watches.

In 1967, Seiko announced its arrival in the world of elite horology, taking second and third place in the final Neufchatel Observatory and Geneva Observatory Competition. Seiko made quite a splash in 2014 when the SBGJ005 Hi-beat 3600 GMT won the Petite Aiguille Award at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve. The long journey led to the 2022 release of the incredible and affordable Seiko SSK001. Timepieces of this caliber don’t appear overnight, folks. 

Seiko SSK001: In-Depth Review

There’s a lot to like about the Seiko SSK001, especially if you are a traveler or like to track multiple time zones and have a tight budget.

Case

The SSK001 features a 42.5 mm stainless steel brushed case with polished sides to make it stand out. This size suits many wrist sizes. Mine is an average 7.25 inches, and the SSK001 is right in the wheelhouse of my preferred case size. With a lug-to-lug width of 46 mm and a thickness of 13.6 mm, this watch wears well on smaller wrists.

If you’re a watch nerd like me, you’ll appreciate the exhibition case back, which allows you to get a good look at the movement. The crown is not screw-in, making this timepiece more of a desk diver. It sits at four o’clock rather than at three. Some people have trouble with the asymmetry, but I feel it adds character and unique charm to this timepiece.

Bezel

As a proper GMT watch, the SSK001 has a 24-hour bezel. The black and gray two-tone insert indicates day and night and it turns unidirectionally with 120 clicks for a smooth motion that feels nice. Arabic numerals are set at the even numbers with dots at the odd and a large inverted triangle at 12 o’clock. 

Materials

Seiko uses high-quality materials in the SSK001. The case and bracelet are made from surgical-grade stainless steel. The bezel is aluminum and polished to a nice finish. The same quality stainless steel is used for the hands. 

Dial

The dial is a black sunray burst beauty. I prefer neutral colors. They go with anything and provide a classic and timeless style. The sunray pattern gives the dial a bit of pop, especially in bright light. The Seiko name and logo are applied at the 12 o’clock position with the date function at three.

Pill-shaped indices sit at six and nine o’clock, with an inverted triangle at 12. Dots are set at the five-minute markers in between. All the indices are applied and filled with Lumibrite, such as the minute, hour, and GMT hands. You won’t have any trouble seeing the time at night.

The minute hand is a broad arrow, and the hour hand has the classic sword shape. The second hand is a needle, and the GMT hand is a large, red arrow that stands out nicely. The dial is covered by a Hardlex crystal. Would I have liked to see sapphire here? Absolutely. But we all know Seiko loves to cut corners, and the crystal is always one of its first priorities.

At three o’clock above the date complication sits a Cyclops magnifier. This is a feature that tends to divide watch enthusiasts. Some love it, some could live without it. Personally, I like the way it makes the date much easier for my aging eyes to read. A bonus is that it’s pill-shaped and adds a nice symmetry to the indices at six and nine.

Movement

The Caliber 4R34 automatic movement is reliable and durable. It has 24 jewels and operates at 21,6000 bph. For a watch at this price point, the accuracy of +45/-35 seconds per day is respectable, and the movement has a 41-hour power reserve. This is more than enough if you wear it every day. I keep mine on a watch winder, so it’s always ready to go. 

The Seiko SSK001 is a caller-type GMT, meaning you can’t set the hour hand separately. Pulling the crown out to the first position allows setting the GMT hand by turning clockwise. Counterclockwise changes the date. The second position sets the time by turning in either direction.

Strap

Holding the watch on your wrist is a stainless steel, five-link jubilee bracelet. The polished surfaces shine nicely. Seiko has improved on its earlier jubilee bracelet which tended to be jangly. This version feels more solid and wraps neatly around the wrist. The bracelet tapers to a trifold, two-button clasp that feels secure. Solid end links add to the look and feel.

Should You Buy A Seiko SSK001?

Is the Seiko SSK001 right for you? If you travel or do business with people in other time zones, you could benefit from a GMT. People with a sense of adventure will enjoy the dive-watch nature of this timepiece.

The neutral colorway is perfect if your style is classic and timeless. It’s a versatile watch that can be your GADA. If you are looking for a stylish, well-made, and reliable watch but don’t have the budget for a four, five, or (gasp) six-figure price tag, this may be the ideal choice. You get plenty of bang for your buck.

Seiko SSK001 Pricing & Availability

If you are ready to pull the trigger, the Seiko SSK001 is readily available at a Seiko store or from their website. You can also buy one at Seiko authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. You can always stop into our boutique in Naples, Florida, to try one on or purchase it online. There is also the option of purchasing one of these beauties new or preowned on the secondary market.

The MSRP of the Seiko SSK001 is just $475. If you shop around or have a good relationship with an AD, you might get one for a bit less and can also save by going preowned. Depending on the condition, you can pick a used one up for between $250 and $350. 

Seiko SSK001 Alternatives

If you like the Seiko SSK001 but would prefer different colors or strap options, there are several other models. They are all powered by the same movement and offer the reliability of the Seiko 5 Sports GMT watches with varying features and styles. With the exception of the Yuto Horigome model, they are priced the same as the SSK001.

Seiko 5 Sports GMT SSK003

The Seiko GMT SSK003  is identical to the SSK001 except for its color. It features a stunning blue sunray dial and a two-tone black and blue bezel. It is a bit bolder than its black-dialed cousin but retains a classy and subtle look. It’s a nice addition to any collection. 

Seiko 5 Sports GMT SSK005

Maybe you want a watch that really pops. The Seiko GMT SSK005 has a bright orange dial that will stand out. Along with its orange minute and hour hands and gray GMT hand, this timepiece makes a statement. The black and gray two-tone bezel offers a nice contrast to the dial. You get the same movement, bracelet, and reliability in a watch that suits a flashier sense of style.

Seiko 5 Sports GMT SSK021 Grey Two-Tone

For the same subtle, timeless style with just a touch of bling, check out the Seiko GMT SSK021. The classy gray dial and matching minute and hour hands blend well with the two-tone black and gray bezel. The outer edge of the bezel is a shiny gold color that matches the GMT hand. It adds a touch of boldness without being in your face. The movement and bracelet are the same as the SSK001. 

Seiko 5 Sports GMT SSK019 Black

Perhaps you love the bracelet and elegance of the SSK001 but want just a little bit of color. The Seiko GMT SSK019 may be the perfect watch for you. It has the same black sunray dial, black and gray bezel, and red GMT hand but with an added twist. The outer edge of the dial is two-tone red and blue. It makes the dial stand out but is not ostentatious. 

Seiko 5 Sports SSK027 Yuto Horigome Limited Edition

For exclusivity and a look that stands out in a completely different way, you may love the Seiko SSK027 Yuto Horigome Limited Edition. A tribute to the first-ever gold medalist in Olympic skateboarding, Seiko only made 2700 of these pieces, so you may have to track down a pre-owned watch. The brand-new models have an MSRP of $525, just slightly higher than the others in the collection.

The stainless steel case and bracelet are the same style and quality but coated in black. The black dial is surrounded by a black and purple two-tone bezel. It’s a unique look for the Seiko 5 GMT collection, and you will have a conversation starter that you won’t see on the wrists of many other people.

Conclusion

Diver GMT watches are among the most popular with watch enthusiasts. They do tend to be pricey and outside the range of many people’s budgets. Seiko has come to the rescue with the Seiko SSK001 and the other models in the Sports 5 GMT collection.

A stylish, reliable, and well-made GMT diver can be yours for less than half a grand. Imagine that. One final bit of advice. The Seiko Sports 5 GMT watches have a 100-meter water resistance. Go ahead and swim in them, but if you’re snorkeling around a reef or have a diving adventure, leave your Seiko on dry land.

Watches with complications tend to be among the most popular with collectors. Moon phases, power reserve indicators, days, dates, and tourbillons are useful as well as fun and stylish. Even though I have a calendar app on my smartphone, I need to see the date displayed on my watch.

Complications require more intricate movements and dials and are, thus, more expensive than standard three-hand models. For newbies to the world of watch collecting or veterans on a budget, it can be hard to find an affordable timepiece with the desired complication. This is especially true of GMT watches.

This is a complication that is extremely helpful to travelers or those who do business with people in other timezones. Sure, you can do the math, but it’s so much easier and way cooler to track more than one timezone on your watch.

GMT watches tend to be very expensive. A simple Google search will bear that out. However, the folks at Seiko have a collection of GMT watches that retail for less than $500. You read that right. You can own a beautiful Seiko 5 GMT at a price that won’t blow up your budget. Let’s take a closer look at these marvelous bargain-priced timepieces.

About The Seiko 5 GMT

The summer of 2022 saw the release of the Seiko 5 GMT collection. This event was not only huge for Seiko and its many fans; it knocked the world of horology on its butt. All of those budget-conscious watch lovers who couldn’t afford a GMT now finally had one to add to their collections.

Part of the Seiko 5 Sports Line, the SSK GMTs share many design features with their older cousins of the SKX Series. Available in a number of dial and bezel colors on bracelets or straps, these watches are clearly Seikos but have a unique charm of their own.

History of Seiko 5 Watches

The Seiko 5 collection has a long history. The first of the series, the Seiko 5 Sportsmatic 5, was released in 1963 and was a groundbreaking timepiece for the brand. The Sportmatic was the first automatic day-date for not only Seiko but also any Japanese brand.

The “5” in the model name represented five key attributes: the automatic movement, the day-date complication, 100-meter water resistance, the recessed crown at four o’clock, and the durable case and bracelet. The number was also used to name the Caliber 5 automatic movement. The watch was such a hit in the world of horology that Seiko earned a Good Design Award in early 1964.

Over the past six decades, the collection has evolved to include many types of sports watches. The SKX series of dive watches was released in 1996 and proved enormously popular. Unfortunately, Seiko discontinued it in 2019. The Prospex is still available and is an excellent diver, but that’s another story for another day.

The Seiko 5 collection continued to evolve to include casual and field watches, which are still available. This leads us to the glorious summer of 2022. Seiko entered the world of GMT watches with an affordable timepiece of this type that checks many of the boxes for GMT fans. In my opinion, it is the best in this class.

Seiko 5 GMT: In-Depth Review

The Seiko 5 GMT watches live up to the brand’s tradition of quality and aesthetics. With the number of colorways, case sizes, and strap options available in the line, there is something to please nearly every GMT lover out there.

Case Sizes & Materials

With the exception of the SSK027 Yuri Horigome Limited Edition and the SSK025, which have black-coated steel cases, all of the Seiko 5 GMTs feature stainless steel cases. These are durable and beautiful, with brushed surfaces on the top of the case and polished on the sides.

There are two case sizes available: 39.4mm and 42.5mm. This puts them dead center in the range that looks good on most wrist sizes. My average-sized 7.25” wrist is nicely covered by cases in this range. For people with smaller wrists, the 46mm lug-to-lug measurement makes the larger case wear more like a 40mm. Either size should suit you well.

The thickness of the case is 13.6mm, which is not bad for a GMT movement. The crystal is flat and gives the illusion of a slimmer watch. It’s a fairly hefty watch at 148g, but despite its solid feel, it doesn’t look chunky on the wrist.

Bezels

The bezels on the Seiko 5 GMT watches are of the 24-hour variety, as you would expect. The top of the bezel at the 24 marker has the large, upside triangle typical of GMT bezels with numerals at the even numbers and round indices at the odd. The bezel is two-colored to indicate day and night. The colors coordinate with the hue of the dial.

The bezel is unidirectional, making it easy to set. When you move it, you will notice a difference from the typical bezel. Rather than a 48-point click, the Seiko 5 GMT bezels turn with a friction feel. It can be a bit disconcerting if, like me, you enjoy the feel of a dive watch bezel. It functions well, however, and it can be set in half-hour increments to accommodate odd time zones such as Indian Standard Time (GMT +5:30).

A nice feature of these bezels is that the inserts are covered with a layer of Hardlex. This gives them the look of a ceramic bezel you would find on a much more expensive timepiece. You have to get pretty close to notice that it’s not ceramic.

With the 24-hour scale on the rehaut, the modders out there could fit an elapsed-time bezel from a Seiko diver to have a GMT dive watch. Be warned that this would be a desk diver. The crown is not a screw-down, and with the 100-meter water resistance, you don’t want to be playing Jacques Cousteau with this watch.

Dials

The dials are available in several colors and clearly designate the watches as Seiko with the brand’s well-known layout. The Seiko name and logo are applied at 12 o’clock, while at 6 o’clock, the word “automatic” is applied along with “GMT” in a color that contrasts the dial and matches the GMT hand.

The Seiko 5 GMT dials are designed to be easy to read. A large upside-down triangle indicates 12, with pill-shaped indices at six and nine and round indices at the five-minute marks in between. The three o’clock position is where the date window sits. For better legibility, it is covered with a cyclops lens in the Hardlex crystal.

This feature is somewhat divisive in the watch community. Many people love a cyclops, others not so much. In the case of Seiko 5 GMT, the cyclops does a nice job of magnifying the date. People who regularly travel across timezones will appreciate the feature. A secondary benefit is that the magnified date nicely matches the pills at six and nine. So, kids, if you’re like me and you prefer symmetry, the cyclops is for you.

The handset is classic Seiko with the large arrow minute hand, Roman sword hour hand, and needle second hand with a lollipop on the back end. The GMT hand is a generously sized arrow. On most models, it’s a bright red. On the SSK005 orange dial model, it is a high-contrast gray. The handset stands out against the dial, making it easy to read, whether you are on the go, or tracking time zones from your desk.

The dial and hands are covered with LumiBrite, typical of a Seiko timepiece. It provides a long-lasting brightness that allows you to read the dial in the darkest conditions.

Movement

The movement is the latest version of Seiko’s 4R line, the 4R34. It’s a reliable automatic movement running at 21,600 bph that features hand winding and hacking and has a 41-hour power reserve.

The Seiko 5 GMT is a caller-type watch. In other words, the hour hand can’t be set independently like in a traveler style. Pulling the crown out to the first position allows you to set the date by turning it counterclockwise. A clockwise turn sets the GMT hand. By pulling the crown out to the second position, you can set the time.

The Seiko 5 GMT watches have exhibition case backs covered with Hardlex. The finish on the 4R34 is nothing particularly special, but a true watch lover enjoys seeing the works of the timepiece. You can also show your horologically challenged friends how your watch winds itself.

Strap Options

Most of the Seiko 5 GMT models come with a stainless steel five-link jubilee bracelet. Seiko has improved it from its earlier jubilees, which tended to feel jangly. The current bracelet forms nicely around the wrist and has a more solid feel. This is helped by the solid end links.

The bracelet tapers down to a folding, two-button clasp with the Seiko name stamped on it. Overall, the jubilee pairs nicely with the case and bezel for a bold and classy look. The SSK027 Yuto Horigome Limited Edition comes with a jubilee bracelet in black-coated steel to match the case. The SSK025 is a field watch with a calfskin leather strap in black.

Most Popular Seiko 5 GMT Models

There are a number of Seiko 5 GMT models from which to choose. They all feature the same careful construction, solid materials, and reliability. You get to choose the one that best matches your aesthetic and, of course, your wrist. Here are the five most popular Seiko 5 GMT watches.

Seiko 5 Sports GMT SSK001

Perhaps the most popular of the collection, the Seiko 5 Sports GMT SSK001, is a great choice if you like a less bold and more classy watch. It has a 42.5mm case and a matte black dial with a very subtle texture to it. The sliver minute, hour, and second hands, along with the red GMT, set up a contrast that looks as good as it is easy to read.

The bezel is bicolored in black and gray. In lower light conditions, the gray half can look black, but the bezel coordinates nicely with the dial.

Seiko 5 Sports SSK023

Next, we have the Seiko 5 Sports SSK023. The case is the smaller 39.4mm size. With its black dial sporting numerals rather than indices and a silver stainless steel bezel, it has a sophisticated look for the fashion-conscious traveler.

Gray hour and minute hands, along with the red-arrow-tipped second hand and bold red GMT, make it a snap to read at a glance. Unlike most of the Seiko 5 GMT models, the crown sits at three o’clock rather than four, and there are no crown guards, which gives this timepiece a lean look.

Seiko 5 Sports GMT SSK005

If you like a watch that makes a bold statement and pops on the wrist, check out the Seiko 5 Sports GMT SSK005. The 42.5mm case with a bright orange dial is sure to make a statement, especially when paired with the black and gray bezel with orange numbers.

The hour and minute hands are lume-filled and outlined in a lighter orange, while the second hand is light orange at the top and dark gray at the bottom. The dark gray GMT hand is super easy to read against the dial. This is a playful GMT model for fun-loving collectors.

Seiko 5 Sports SSK027 Yuto Horigome Limited Edition

For collectors who enjoy a special timepiece, the Seiko Sports SSK027 Yuto Horigome Limited Edition fits the bill. Only 2700 of these beauties were made. This watch is a tribute to the first-ever Olympic gold medalist in skateboarding.

The 42.5mm case is black-coated stainless steel and looks chic with the black dial and bicolor blue and purple bezel. The silver minute and hour hands, silver and black second hand, and red GMT hand provide easy legibility as well as style. The matching black stainless steel jubilee bracelet pulls it all together.

Seiko 5 Sports GMT SSK003

If you want something a bit bolder than black but not quite as bright as orange, you may love the Seiko Sports GMT SSK003. It has a 42.5mm case with a blue sunburst dial set against a black and blue bezel. Silver minute and hour hands, a silver and black second hand, and a red GMT arrow contrast the dial for a great look and ease of reading. You’ll see this model on the wrists of many discerning watch lovers. Maybe it belongs on yours.

Should You Buy A Seiko 5 GMT?

Now that you’ve learned about the collection, is a Seiko 5 GMT right for you? First, is a GMT a type of watch you need and/or want? For frequent travelers, those who do business with folks around the world, or who have family or friends in different time zones, a GMT watch can be enormously helpful.

Serious collectors who want watches of each kind in their collection will consider a GMT a must-have. If you have a large income and plenty of disposable cash, you will probably seek out a GMT from a high-end luxury brand with a hefty price tag. If you’re on a tighter budget, a Seiko 5 GMT is an excellent option. It makes a great first GMT or even a first watch for a newbie collector.

Seiko 5 GMT Pricing & Availability

The Seiko 5 GMT is a popular watch, and you shouldn’t have trouble finding one. You can find them at Seiko’s online store or a Seiko authorized dealer, either brick-and-mortar or online. You can also purchase one from an online dealer on the secondary market. The Seiko 5 GMT is the most affordable watch of its kind out there.

With the exception of the SSK027, which you can pick for $525 (it’s a limited edition, so it costs a bit more) Seiko 5 GMTs sell for less than $500. These models range from $415-$475. If you search around for sales, there are some generous discounts out there. If you decide to go pre-owned, you can pick up a well-cared-for Seiko 5 GMT that looks great for between $300 and $350.

Conclusion

In the world of watches, GMTs are popular, useful, and often priced above what many people can afford. Every serious collector should have a GMT. Thanks to Seiko, you can own a beautiful and reliable GMT timepiece without taking out a second mortgage. In my humble opinion, the Seiko Sports 5 GMT watches are the best option for anyone looking for a low-cost GMT.

Homage to Innovation, Excellence, and Sports

The Seiko Speedtimer is an outrageously efficient and functional budget chronograph. The Japanese-made timepiece is easily the only true chronograph under $700 and a top contender for top watches within $1,500.

What makes the Speedtimer so valuable? Or is it just an exceptionally affordable Japanese watch with inferior features? Find out in this in-depth review of the Seiko Speedtimer collection.

The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Collection

The Seiko Speedtimer line is a collection of chronographs with varying functions, prices, color schemes, and two movements. 

Its premium models are the history-rich Mechanical Chronograph for watch enthusiasts who detest quartz. This collection includes four models with different dial colors but the same movement. 

Meanwhile, the Seiko Speedtimer seven-watch Solar Chronograph lineup is for those who want a bang for their buck. 

• Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph (1k pieces Limited Edition)
• Three Mechanical Chronograph models
• Seven Solar Chronograph models

Made for Excellence 

Every watch in the Speedtimer collection is the perfect blend of classic style and modern innovation. Each is carefully crafted to pay tribute to Seiko’s rich and continuing tradition of sports timing, with a new automatic chronograph movement to capture every detail. 

And the Solar chronographs, despite being budget pieces, also inherit iconic designs for a fraction of the cost of mechanical classics. 

Whether you’re looking for a statement piece or a complicated timepiece, you’ll find it on a budget in the Seiko Speedtimer collection. 

It’s a Seiko thing: the Speedmaster 7A38 also carried the world’s first analog display quartz chronograph movement in the 1980s. And you can get this vintage piece for under $500.

Functionality, versatility, and affordability make the Speedtimer an anomaly.

Features and Specs Speedtimer Mechanical Editon (SRQ)

• Stainless steel case 
• Tachymeter function
• Case size: 42.55mm 
• (Lug-to-lug: 50 mm)
• Thickness: 15mm
• Movement: Caliber 8R946
• See-through case back
• +25 to -15 seconds accuracy per day
• Weight: 194g

Features and Specs Solar Speedtimer SSC Series

• Solar energy 
• Tachymeter function
• Seiko Caliber V196
• +15 to -15 accuracy 
• 6-month power reserve
• Power reserve indicator
• 45 hours power reserve 
• Weight: 161g

History of the Seiko Speedtimer Collection

The first Speedtimer models rolled out in the 1960s before, during, and after Seiko were official timekeepers of the 64′ Olympics. 

The official release of the Speedtimer in 1969 ushered in a landmark achievement for Seiko and the Japanese watchmaking industry. It was the first time the world saw an automatic movement chronograph – even the Swiss had yet to achieve this. 

Seiko subtly reincarnated the Speedtimer in its modern line of Prospex sports watches. 

The star of the collection is the limited edition model with a plain white dial and injection hands. This concept is inspired by the 1964 Seiko Stopwatch, built for sports timing. 

All the Mechanical and Solar Speedtimer watches are also a nod to the past, with each collection sharing the same movement and specs but different dial designs. 

Intriguing Dials 

All Speedtimer models resemble the iconic Rolex Daytona but are original in their lane. Besides, the subdials of Seiko’s Speedtimer and Speedmaster watches (also thought to have been a replica of Omega Speedmaster) are timeless racing watch designs. 

But don’t get the illusion that it’s a cheap replica or an homage watch. Stay tuned to find out the Speedtimer’s originality.

Mechanical Edition Dial

Seiko produces four Speedmaster mechanical edition models: 

• SRQ037J1 
• SRQ043J1 
• SRQ039J 
• SRQ035J1(Limited edition model). 

They have varying dial and subdial colors, hands, and finish variations that draw inspiration from their original models of the 60s. 

SRQ071

This charcoal-gray dialed mechanical watch design is inspired by the 1964 Crown Chronograph – Seiko and Japan’s first chronograph wristwatch. 

While not identical, the beveled hour markers and sharp sword-like hour hands mirror the original model. 

Small second hands curved slightly downward to rest on the tip of the subdial markers and parallel to the tachymeter. Although subtle, this improves accuracy and reading legibility for racers, so you should be fine with measuring your speed over a distance.

The main difference from the Prospex classics, as with other mechanical successors, is the inclusion of subdials, tachymeter, and push buttons.  

SRQ043J1

Navy blue is an homage to the 1969 Speedtimer, but better. The dial has vertical hairline finishing, which changes from navy to vivid blue at varying angles. This helps when you don’t want to turn your wrist to read the time. The SRQ043 white subdials and outer ring further enhance readability. 

SRQ039J1

If you asked, the SRQ039 is my favorite dial color from the collection because it looks like my favorite jean.

The SRQ039 has the same specifications as the angle-changing model 043, except for its blue and black dial. It’s an acknowledgment of Seiko’s time as the official timekeeper of the 1964 Olympic games in Tokyo.   

SRQ071

This lovely Prospex Speedtimer is a spin-off of Seiko’s 1964 1/5th Stopwatch. That’s how it has a striking scale-like aesthetic with a plain white dial, needle hands, and 10-second progressive Arabic numerals. 

Solar Energy Dials 

Image from Seiko

The Solar powered Speedtimers have the most exciting color lineup, and the SSC813 “Panda” is the signature model. It’s a black and white color with a white dial and black subdials that look like the face of Panda. 

The third subdial is a power reserve indicator. The solar editions also have a unique slanting date window at 4:20 that draws mixed feelings among fans. 

Moreover, the SSC Speedtimer models have fixed external bezels with varying colors, unlike the mechanical editions with inner ring tachymeters. See the difference: 

History-Rich Cases 

Stopwatch-Inspired SRQ

The SRQ Speedtimers (mechanical edition) use a round polished stainless steel case that’s a muse of the 1964 stopwatch. All the mechanical watches have a 42.5mm diameter case that’s 50mm from lug to lug.

That’s a fine men’s watch size, especially since the SSC is a tool watch. It can also fit perfectly on a lady’s wrists, but they may not fancy its weight or size, but the SSC will be more suitable. Finally, the cases sport two push buttons and a crown in the middle, like the 1964 Stopwatch.

Perfect-Sized Solar Chronograph 

Seiko uses an entirely different case design for its SSC solar chronographs and I love their portability. I’m grinning from ear to ear as I write this wearing my 44m Diesel Armbar, wishing I could snatch the more comfortable Seiko SSC813. 

The case is only 39mm across and 45mm from lug to lug, which is still an excellent fit for even small wrists. At this size, it’ll be a perfect chronograph gift for a woman who loves to wear men’s or instrument watches. The case is another example of how Seiko blends history with modern innovations.

In this case, the SSC case is a concept from the 1969 Speedtimer. However, its seemingly sophisticated look results from its tachymeter bezel synchronizing with the in-dial 60-second markers. But is an upgrade of the classics. 

This design is another testament to the Japanese brand’s efforts to blend heritage with modern innovations.

Bracelets 

Mechanical Edition

One thing Seiko boasts about its Speeditimer bracelets is their low center of gravity. It’s a result of the curved lugs and thick case. You’ll find the same feature in the solar edition. 

But a higher-quality bracelet-to-case finish makes the mechanical edition bracelets stand out from Solar Speedtimers. They have finely and evenly polished cases and bracelets compared to the Solar models. 

However, it uses the pin and lock system for removing links, which is considered clumsy and old-fashioned by watch enthusiasts.

Seiko SSC813 (Solar)

The Seiko Speedtimer SSC813 has the same case and bracelet dimensions as the solar series. But stands out because of its black and white “Panda” dial. 

The Solar Speedtimer has a stainless steel bracelet and is secured with a three-fold clasp with a push button mechanism. That makes it easy to wear, comfortable, and safe from accidentally falling off the wrist. 

However, the SSC813 has roughly polished links that don’t match the case. We also saw this same issue decades ago in the Seiko Speedmaster. 

Still, it’s not a terrible or noticeable issue, despite pointing it out to you. Only watch enthusiasts can tell the difference and may feel irked, so it doesn’t change the fact that it’s a durable, scratch-resistant bracelet. 

Curved Lug

Seiko curves the lugs down to give room for the push buttons. It creates an illusion that it’s taller than its actual 13mm height or the Speedmaster with a downward design.

Tachymeter Designs 

Remember, the Speedtimer is a racing watch collection and, as such, sports a tachymeter. If you’re unfamiliar with the term, it’s the inscription around the rim of watches used to measure distance traveled over time. 

The Speedtimers have two tachymeter designs. First, the Seiko Speedtimer SSC813, for instance, has a circumferential tachymeter on a fixed black bezel. All the Solar Chronographs have the same type but with different color schemes. 

Second, the SRQ mechanical series tachymeter is within the protective ring – a stationary, plain stainless steel bezel.

Uniform Movements

When it comes to the movement, there are two options. You can either splurge for the mechanical caliber or economize with the functional solar-powered (quartz) editions. The mechanical movements will shock you.

Top-Of-The-Line Caliber 8R46

The mechanical chronograph collection uses Seiko’s iconic Caliber 8R46. This movement is designed and hand-assembled in-house by Seiko’s finest engineers. It’s interesting because many watch lovers still think all Seiko watches are mass-produced and have inferior movements. 

Well, not the SRQ Speedtimer, that’s for sure. With a vertical clutch and column wheel movement mechanism for generational durability and accuracy. 

The vertical clutch slows down the wear and tear process while the column wheel controls the “start,” “stop,” and “zero” settings. The caliber 8R46 is ultimately Seiko’s most powerful automatic movement for mechanical watches.

Solar-Powered Caliber V192     

If you underrated the SSC series because they’re quartz, sit down for a rethink. But if you fancy quartz movements, you’ll get a great deal. 

The Caliber V192, as you know, is solar-powered and has an impressive six-month power reserve when fully charged. But that’s based on if you only use the chronograph feature for one hour daily.

What’s more, the V192-powered Seiko watches have an accuracy of +/-15 per month. Admittedly, that’s a better accuracy than most Japanese movements that offer an average +/- 25 accuracy per day but it is subpar at this price range.  

In addition, it offers a power reserve indicator at 6 o’clock and a controversial date window at 4:20. The date window can be problematic to glance at without “breaking your neck” to get the right angle. 

Seiko Speedtimer: Pricing and Value

Mechanical Edition

The Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical Edition watches cost around $3,000 to $3,300, with the limited edition piece priced on the upper end. 

For $3,000, you will find a few mechanical chronographs on Seiko’s craftmanship level. Well, not unless you opt for preowned watches, like the Omega Speedmaster or Longines Master chronograph. 

Also, it’s packed with vintage appeal that pays homage to one of the most iconic watch releases in the Japanese watchmaking industry. And it’s only an homage, not a replica, as some people would have loved. 

And it’s ahead of similarly priced competitors because of its premium movement with a column wheel and vertical clutch combination. Finally, the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer’s +25 to -15 seconds accuracy per day is decent, especially for a mechanical racing chronograph under $3000. But you’ll find higher precision watches for less. 

Seiko Speedtimer SSC813 Solar: King Of Value

The Speedtimer Solar (priced below $700) has rocked the watch industry since its release. Even when it’s not compared to quartz movements, this work of art remains a top competitor for chronographs under $1,500. 

The SSC813 (solar Speedtimer) guarantees a high value for your buck with its polished stainless steel finish and an enticing Panda dial. 

Its solar charge is also a nice touch of functionality. You never worry about winding your watch and don’t have to sunbathe it to charge it. It charges in cloudy or sunny weather and under fluorescent light. 

However, a few collectors think Seiko could’ve given a finer bracelet-to-case finish. And added a GMT instead of a power reserve subdial. But it couldn’t be any less good. 

Alternatives to The Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical 

• Tissot Heritage 
• Zentih El Primero
• Longines Master
• Doxa Sub 200

SSC Solar Alternative 

• Seiko Astron Solar
• Citizen Caliber E210

Pros and Cons Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical Edition 

Pros of SRQ037

• Topnotch finish
• Durable and precise movement
• See-through case back 
• Magnetic resistance

Cons of SRQ037

• Pricey 
• Poorly integrated bracelet-to-case finish.

Pros and Cons Seiko Speedtimer Solar (Quartz) Edition 813

Pros of SSC 813

• Budget-friendly – costs under $700
• Easy wearing chronograph
• Solar powered with sun and light 
• Power reserve subdial 
• Easy-to-read dial

Cons Of SSC 813

• Bulky 
• 4:20 date window
• Unsymmetrical bracelet-to-case finish

The Verdict

The Speedtimer is a worthy racing chronograph collection if you’re on a budget – both mechanical and quartz. This collection is perfect for watch lovers who want a piece of history on their hands but don’t want a relic. 

With both Speedtimer versions, you can tell a story of the original models from the 60s-70s, and they inspired the making of your modern timepiece. 

Shop the SRQ035 (only one-piece available), SSC813 for $3,200, and $675, respectively from Exquisite Timepieces. They’re trusted online and Florida-based new and pre-owned luxury watch dealers of the Speedtimer Chronographs.