Category: Seiko

Ancient bamboo canopies, moss-covered stones, and emerald lake waters. It’s natural images like this that come to mind when I look at the Grand Seiko Heritage “Rikka” SBGH271 watch. And it seems that’s what Grand Seiko intended when they created this model, with its rich green dial inspired by “rikka”, a season in Japan’s 24 “sekki”, which marks the end of spring and the beginning of summer.

First impressions suggest this is a watch that would be beautiful for evening occasions. I can just picture the deep green dial and the beautifully finished stainless steel case slipping conspicuously under a shirt cuff, asking for appreciation without demanding it. 

Its elegance quietly commands attention, offering a statement that is both subtle and sophisticated, perfect for those who recognize true artistry in timepieces. But with that said, how did it fare in the real world, living on my wrist for the last week?

History of the Grand Seiko 24 Sekki Collection

Grand Seiko has a reputation for capturing the beauty of Japan’s nature through its designs. It’s not a new philosophy for the watchmaker by any means, and yet it’s certainly not one anyone seems bored of yet. 

In 2019, the luxury watch brand launched its 24 Sekki Collection, a series of watches inspired by how Japanese individuals look at the year. Instead of just naming four seasons, they have 24 “sekki”, or little moments that capture all the subtle changes in nature throughout the year.

They don’t just say spring, summer, fall, and winter; they break it down even further, naming parts of the year, such as when the first flowers bloom or when the first leaves from trees fall to the ground. 

It’s a rather poetic way of keeping track of the seasons if you ask me. As you’ve probably guessed, each watch in the Grand Seiko 24 Sekki collection reflects one of these moments. One of my personal favorites is the “Shunbun” SBGA413 which has a beautiful pastel pink textured dial inspired by the spring equinox when Japan’s cherry blossom trees start to bloom. The “Taisetsu” SBGA415 is another model worth mentioning, bringing to life the colors and textures of the deep snows of winter.

What’s so special about this collection is that regardless of your nationality, you feel like you are wearing a piece of art that connects you to Japan’s nature. The watch I have had the pleasure of getting hands-on with this week, the Grand Seiko Heritage “Rikka” SBGH271 watch, is a perfect example, this time bringing to life a very specific moment at the beginning of summer.

A Streamline Steel Case

It’s hard with a watch like this not to get distracted by the dial, but I’ll get onto that shortly. Instead, I want to start with the case because it’s equally impressive. Beautifully contoured, the case of the Grand Seiko Heritage “Rikka” SBGH271 is inspired by the iconic 1967 62GS model from Grand Seiko, the brand’s first automatic timepiece. It’s part of the Heritage collection for that reason, bringing together this history with an undeniably modern presence.

But make no mistake, this isn’t just any sports watch case. The curves and edges are breathtaking, somehow managing to be sharp yet flowing. The combination of finishing plays with this unusual juxtaposition creates a striking visual experience. I’m not sure I’ll ever get bored of Grand Seiko’s standout Zaratsu polishing, which in this case, is applied to the lugs and sides. 

It’s the same level of finishing you’d find in top-tier Swiss watches, often referred to as “black polish”. Usually, this kind of finishing is for movement components like bridges and screws, so seeing it on a watch case is truly exceptional, especially since the process isn’t quick or easy. 

In fact, every polished component requires a single skilled artisan to hold the surface against a spinning tin place. It’s time-consuming, but the result is an outstanding mirror-like finish. The satin finish on the case sides complements the Zaratsu polish perfectly.

The Grand Seiko Heritage “Rikka” SBGH271 watch measures to 40mm in diameter, with a 47mm lug-to-lug distance and a thickness of 12.9mm. It’s a great set of dimensions for most wrist sizes, especially the height, which allows it to still wear nicely under tight sleeves. The dial is protected by a lovely box-shaped sapphire crystal, giving the watch a touch of vintage appeal. 

Flat sapphire is much cheaper for brands to use, so when you find cambered sapphire like this, it definitely adds to the watch’s luxury feel—both in value and look. The case back is also made of sapphire crystal, so you can see part of the 9S85 movement inside. I say “part of” because the Grand Seiko lion crest partially obscures the view, which is a bit of a shame.

An Early Summer-Inspired Dial

The dial of the Grand Seiko Heritage “Rikka” SBGH271 watch is a stunning deep green, designed to replicate the intricate texture of the foliage. Like most Grand Seiko dials, it’s difficult to fully appreciate the detail in photos or videos—I really recommend seeing models like this in person so you can fully grasp that level of attention to detail involved. 

The best way I can describe the color is as British Racing Green, but with a slightly metallic sheen that reflects light in a way that subtly shifts the hue depending on the angle. The texture is subtle, too. 

Depending on how the light hits it, the dial can appear completely smooth at times, while at other moments, it reveals an intricate, raised pattern that reminds me of the rough surface of early summer leaves.

Grand Seiko has cleverly incorporated a sloped minutes track around the edge of the dial, with the minutes printed in white on a matching dark green backdrop. This makes it easy to read the time at a glance. The hour markers and hands are crafted from yellow gold, which contrasts beautifully with the green dial. There’s something special about the combination of yellow gold, and green, especially when paired with a steel case. The warmth of the gold feels reminiscent of sunrise or sunset, adding to the dial’s early summer inspiration.

The hardware on the dial, including the GS logo at 12 o’clock and the date window frame at 3 o’clock, is also finished in yellow gold, ensuring a cohesive look. Everything on this dial is meticulously finished by hand using diamond-tipped milling tools and then carefully placed by hand. The only parts printed onto the dial’s surface are the white printed “Grand Seiko” logo at 12 o’clock and the lettering in a deep yellow at 6 o’clock, confirming the automatic hi-beat movement inside.

A Hi-Beat Movement

Housed inside the Grand Seiko Heritage “Rikka” SBGH271 watch is the Japanese watchmaker’s signature 9S85 automatic winding caliber. It’s an in-house movement made exclusively in Grand Seiko’s Shizukuishi Watch Studio in Iwate Prefecture with an insanely impressive frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour. 

That’s 10 beats per second, which is why the seconds hand sweeps so smoothly across the dial. It’s also the same rate of frequency of the Zenith El Primero, another beautiful hi-beat watch but one that’s often three to four thousand dollars more expensive.

The Caliber 9285 is adjusted to six positions to ensure a high level of accuracy – that’s one more than the chronometer standard of 5. It boasts an accuracy rating of -3 to +5, which again beats other chronometers rated to -4 to +6 seconds per day. It also runs off 37 jewels and promises a power reserve of 55 hours. As mentioned, when off the wrist, you can admire the beautifully decorated movement through the Grand Seiko Heritage “Rikka” SBGH271 watch’s case back.

A Hand-Finished Bracelet

The Grand Seiko Heritage “Rikka” SBGH271 arrives on a solid three-row link stainless steel bracelet to match its case. It has solid end links and a wonderful alternating link alignment for a handsome finish. The finishing of the metal beautifully falls in line with the case, boasting hand-finished surfaces that are predominantly satinized with some polishing on each end of the middle link and on the outer links’ flanks.

There’s a single-fold deployment clasp finished just as beautifully as the rest of the bracelet. It’s polished and satin-finished and is detailed with the Grand Seiko logo in relief. It’s a twin trigger release system, so you can’t accidentally open it easily. 

Sadly, there are no micro adjustments incorporated into the bracelet (I’m still patiently waiting for Grand Seiko to start adding a micro-adjustment system into their bracelets), but instead, there are half links, so finding a comfortable fit isn’t too difficult.

The metal bracelet has a 21mm lug width which is a little awkward of a size, especially if you want to swap the strap out for something else. But it has drilled lugs, so when you are able to source a 21mm strap, swapping it around is a breeze.

On-Wrist Experience

If it were up to me, I would make this my go-to dress watch. It pairs beautifully with formal attire and slips perfectly under a shirt cuff. But at the same time, I have to remind myself not to let its refined appearance fool me; this watch is built to be tough since it’s a sports watch, after all. 

With its solid steel bracelet and 100-meter water resistance, it’s not something you need to baby. It would make an equally fantastic and undeniably handsome daily beater that can withstand the wear and tear of an average day.

The dimensions are spot on, with a 40mm diameter and a 47mm lug-to-lug distance, making it comfortable even on wrists as small as five-and-a-half inches. If your wrist is slightly smaller, you can easily swap out the bracelet for a leather strap using the watch’s strap-changing features. This not only makes it more wearable but also adds a touch of versatility. 

The solid end links add an extra 3mm to the lug-to-lug distance, giving it a bit more presence on larger wrists, especially those over 7.5 inches. While its sporty nature and thickness might not make it the quintessential dress watch for some of you, I believe it can still be worn in dressier settings with ease.

Price & Availability

It still amazes me how Grand Seiko can produce a watch with such high levels of finishing and movement manufacture for less than $7,000. To put it into perspective, you’re getting an in-house hi-beat movement, a beautifully hand-finished stainless steel case, a full metal bracelet, and a super intricate, textured dial for just $6,300 with the Grand Seiko Heritage “Rikka” SBGH271 watch. And that’s if you buy it brand new at retail price. If you’re lucky, you might be able to find it on the second-hand market for a few thousand dollars cheaper.

Conclusion

After a week on my wrist, I’ve come to the quick and confident conclusion that the Grand Seiko Heritage “Rikka” SBGH271 is a stunning watch that truly justifies its price tag and earns its place in even the most avid watch collectors’ boxes. 

The finishing of the case is exceptional, a masterpiece of craftsmanship that I could admire for hours, and when with the mesmerizing green dial, which shifts in color and texture with every tilt of the wrist, this watch is an exquisite—and admittedly distracting—work of art. And now after reviewing this one, I’m eager to see the other models in the Grand Seiko 24 Sekki collection up close.

I think most people familiar with Seiko are already well-versed in this Japanese watchmaker’s value proposition. This is a brand that has made it their bread-and-butter to create reliable and robust watches with beautiful dials and easy-to-use technology. And of all their collections, the Seiko Prospex line has become their flagship, offering durable diving instruments worthy of both land and water. But when there’s such a large number of models on offer, how do you know where to start?

I’ve been fortunate to get hands-on experience with several Seiko Prospex watches during my life, but I have never had the chance to test out one of their solar-powered models. 

I sometimes forget that Seiko offers solar-powered watches because I’m often so entranced by their in-house mechanical movements, but these designs claim to be equally impressive, requiring no rewinding or battery replacement, powered entirely by natural and artificial light. 

So, when it came to choosing which solar Seiko watch I wanted to test, I went straight for their most classic: the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573.

About The Seiko SNE573

Why would I choose the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 out of them all? Well, a quick look and it’s clear this is a watch that’s going to be easy to wear. 

It’s a classic black dial with a black bezel and stainless steel cased design with fantastic dimensions to suit a vast majority of wrists. It also utilizes one of Seiko’s most used in-house solar-powered movements, the Caliber V147, a movement I’m desperate to see live up to my expectations.

It’s also a watch with plenty of diving capability; it has a 200-meter water resistance, a unidirectional rotating bezel, and Seiko’s glow-in-the-dark Lumibrite across the dial. And yet, despite all this, there’s something beautifully timeless about its execution. 

I wasn’t sure if it was the shape of the steel case or the simplicity of its monochromatic design, but it felt like a watch I could wear just as effortlessly on land as I could in water.

It’s not a brand new watch by any means, having launched in 2021, but the Seiko SNE573 is still a permanent addition to its collection, which, to me, suggests it’s a watch that has proved some level of popularity. 

So, with all these things in mind, I became curious if, when on the wrist, these factors come together to prove the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 as one that lives up to the high expectations myself and Seiko have set for themselves.

History of Seiko Solar Dive Watches

Understandably, solar-powered watches haven’t been around for all that long, first introduced during the 1970’s. 

Seiko was one of the first brands to launch their own, with the Seiko 0634-5000 becoming something of a game changer for the industry as it allowed those who frequented the outdoors the convenience of never having to rewind a mechanical movement or swap out the battery for a standard quartz watch. Instead, it harnessed the power of the sun to keep the hands around the dial ticking.

It wasn’t really until the 1990s, however, that Seiko became well-known for their solar watches. It was here when they merged their solar-powered tech with their legendary Prospex line, creating a reliable diving watch with underwater durability and the endless power of sunlight. 

Over the years, their solar dive watches have evolved – but only slightly – to incorporate the latest styles and technology. We’re now seeing more advanced solar movements, increased water-resistant ratings, and updated designs that are both functional and fashionable. The 2021 Seiko SNE573 is one of the same, promising all the essential features you’d want in a solar-powered dive watch.

Seiko SNE573: In-Depth Review

Now it’s time to get hands-on with the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573. As I mentioned in the introduction, there was a reason I wanted to try this watch specifically. Just from looks, it appears to be an easy-to-wear diver’s model for most occasions. 

Plus, the spec suggests it would be worthy of the wrists of professional divers just as much as those of us simply wanting something robust and water-resistant. But is the design too simple, and does it become boring? And does the tech do what it promises?

Case

One of the issues I’ve had personally with finding a Seiko Prospex watch for myself is case sizing. Typically, Seiko’s diving watches are large, measuring around 41.5mm wide, and even in some cases, the Seiko Tuna, for example, comes in at 48mm. So when Seiko launched the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 in 2021 with a mid-size case, I’m guessing it wasn’t just me and my smaller-than-average wrists that were happy.

So, it shouldn’t be surprising that one of the standout features of the Seiko SNE573, for me, is the sizing. Measuring a compact 38.5mm wide and just 10.8mm thick – the latter being something of an unfamiliar sight in dive watches – the watch will quite happily suit almost any wrist size. 

It also has a nice case length of 46.45mm. Upon strapping the model on, I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to wear. In fact, I’d go as far as saying it feels smaller on the wrist than what the dimensions suggest. It’s restrained, comfortable, and just looks great.

The watch still wears comfortably despite its well-sized unsigned crown at 3 o’clock, protected by two protruding crown guards, which offers an ISO-certified water resistance of 200 meters. The case also presents flat sapphire crystal glass – a feature that’s nice to see on a watch under $500 – and a screw-down case back decorated with a wave in relief.

Bezel

One of the reasons I think the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 watch feels smaller than its 38.5mm width suggests is down to the bezel. Much of the design’s real estate falls to the 120-click bezel. 

Engineered from stainless steel, it is strongly knurled for easy manipulation even while wearing thick diving gloves, and on top, a black bezel insert is added, presenting the 60-minute scale in white.

For those wanting to use the Seiko SNE573 for diving, the bezel is unidirectional, allowing for precise and reliable tracking of elapsed time underwater while preventing accidental adjustments during your dive. 

There’s also a nice pearlescent pip placed on the triangular marker at 12 o’clock for quick reference. The bezel is nicely polished, which adds a nice touch of contrast to the rest of the stainless steel housing, which is predominantly vertically brushed.

Dial

For the dial of the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 watch, things are kept unapologetically simple. The surface is made of a classic matte black and set with the classic round, and baton-shaped indices infilled with Seiko’s green-glowing Lumibrite material. 

At 3 o’clock, there’s a cut-out date window with a white backdrop, and at 12 and 6 o’clock, respectively, the Seiko logo is included alongside the Prospex emblem and lettering to showcase its solar capability and 200-meter water resistance.

The handset is typical of many of Seiko’s diver’s watches, offering a skeletonized construction with the broad hours with an arrow tip and the minutes styled in a syringe-like shape. 

Up close, you’ll notice the finishing of the hours and minutes is brushed, creating a subtle bit of contrast to the polished seconds. The seconds has a luminous lollipop counterweight which, like the rest of the hardware, is decorated with Lumibrite.

One might think the dial of the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 watch is a little boring, and you wouldn’t be wrong. It is plain, and it is simple, not even including a subtle sunray effect or any contrasting coloring on the seconds hand. 

But, in my personal opinion, it’s one of the reasons why I like this watch so much. It’s unfussy, undeniably legible, and focuses more on its technology than any fanciful dial design.

Movement

As mentioned, the back of the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 is kept closed with the iconic wave motif chosen to protect the V147 caliber housed within. It’s an in-house solar-powered movement from Seiko offering classic time and date functionality and an accuracy rated at +/-15 seconds per month or +/- 1 second per day. 

Most of its benefit comes from its ability to fuel itself automatically through solar or artificial light, meaning you never have to worry about battery changes. In bright sunny conditions, the caliber will become fully charged after around 9 hours.

Strap

The Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 arrives on a comfortable black silicone strap with a small amount of ribbed detail on either side. It’s a nice strap but nothing extraordinary. Thankfully, with a 20mm lug width, this watch can be easily personalized with a variety of other straps to make it your own. 

Like some of the other Prospex Solar Diver watches in the Japanese watch brand’s portfolio, I think this model would look lovely dressed up with a full metal bracelet or even add a bit of color to the monochromatic design with a striped NATO band.

Should You Buy A Seiko SNE573?

If you want a solar-powered dive watch that’s reliable, durable and impressively affordable, then yes, I highly recommend the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573. Professional divers and military personnel alike will appreciate its robust build and dependable performance. 

I’m neither of those things, and my time with it was immensely enjoyable. I had no issues with accuracy, and I was especially grateful for its sizing. It also feels solid on the wrist, as if no matter what I did or where I went, it would hold up and endure the environment with me.

Seiko SNE573 Pricing & Availability

Seiko doesn’t let us down with the price of the SNE573 either. They continue to maintain their reputation for affordable luxury, retailing the model for $475 on authorized dealers like Exquisite Timepieces. 

It can also be found on the second-hand market for anywhere between $300 and $350 if you’re working with a smaller budget. It’s a non-limited edition and remains a permanent part of Seiko’s collection. However, we can’t say how long that’ll be for.

Seiko SNE573 Alternatives

As I hinted in the introduction, there are several alternatives to the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 available in the Japanese watchmaker’s portfolio. If the simple black and steel aesthetic of the SNE573 is a little overdone to you, here are some other models still worthy of your time…

Seiko Prospex SNE575

Still a classic dive watch but with added color and texture for further visual interest, the Seiko Prospex SNE575 is an excellent alternative to the SNE573. This model has been released as part of Seiko’s popular PADI line, a range of watches dedicated to celebrating the official partnership between the Japanese watch brand and PADI (The Professional Association of Diving Instructors). 

This time, the watch’s matte black dial is cleverly etched with the PADI globe logo, while the hour hand and first quarter of the diver’s scale are detailed in the logo’s same blue hue.

Seiko Prospex SNE591

Something of a staple for a diver’s watch – thanks to Rolex and their legendary Pepsi bezel – the Seiko Prospex SNE591 delivers a cool two-toned red and blue diving bezel with beautiful circular finishing. 

To match, the screw-down crown has a red rubber ring for a 200-meter water-resistant rating, sitting at 3 o’clock on the 42.8mm wide stainless steel case. There’s the familiar matte black dial set with Lumibrite, a solid three-row link stainless steel bracelet, and the V157 in-house solar-powered movement.

Seiko Prospex SNE583

If you appreciate all the specs of the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 but want something with a dial and bezel color that’s a little more exciting than black, I highly recommend the SNE583. Other than its full metal bracelet, this model offers all the same specs as the model in review here. 

It has a compact 38.5mm stainless steel case, unidirectional rotating bezel, 200-meter water-resistant rating, and the V147 solar-powered movement. The main difference is the dial and bezel, which is colored in a deep emerald green, with a subtle sunray brushed finishing and circular finishing.

Seiko Prospex SNE585

In the exact same collection as the model above, you also have the Seiko Prospex reference SNE585. This time, the sunray brushed dial is colored in a gorgeous royal blue, a color that feels perfectly suited to ocean-based adventures. The bezel follows suit, presenting its 60-minute scale in white on a navy blue backdrop. 

The rest of the specs stay the same; it has a 38.5mm steel case, 200-meter water resistance, sapphire crystal glass, and a screw-in crown. It also arrives on a three-row link solid stainless steel bracelet with a folding buckle and micro-adjustment.  

Seiko Prospex SNE586

Finally, we have the Seiko Prospex SNE586, a slightly dressier take on the compact 38.5mm wide diver’s watch with a rose gold plated case and bezel. But despite its more opulent aesthetic, this is a watch that still upholds Seiko’s high levels of reliability. 

It offers the same sapphire crystal glass, 200-meter water resistance, and a screw-down crown and case back. The dial and bezel insert are done in black for a dramatic level of contrast against the case material, which matches the black silicone strap secured by a rose gold-plated pin buckle.

Conclusion

Some might look at the Seiko Prospex Solar Diver SNE573 and consider it boring, but that’s my favorite thing about it. It’s unfussy and rather than placing too much attention on color or detail, it instead focuses on its functionality to create a watch that is unapologetically robust and reliable. 

Because of its simple design, I think it’s one that could be easily overlooked, but you shouldn’t. In my opinion, the dimensions are perfect – especially if you have wrists between 6 and 7 inches. It’s also not often you’ll find a watch less than $500 with sapphire crystal, ISO-certified 200-meter water resistance, and an innovative solar-powered dial. It’s yet another watch from Seiko I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend.

My first mechanical watch was a Seiko Presage. It was the first timepiece I bought when I got my first paycheque working as a watch writer, and still, to this day, it remains one of my most worn watches. 

So, as much as I will aim to write this review with as little bias as possible, this is a watch close to my heart – and for good reason. It’s one of Seiko’s most popular models, known as their flagship dress watch, and offers an almost unbelievable level of design craftsmanship and technology at affordable prices. So, with this in mind, let’s take a look at everything the Seiko Presage has to offer.

About The Seiko Presage

It’s actually hard to believe that the Seiko Presage collection was launched in 2016. It feels like such a staple in the Japanese watchmaker’s portfolio that it’s difficult to imagine it never existed. 

But alas, it’s a collection that hasn’t even celebrated its 10th anniversary yet (I can’t wait for that one, though, as I’m sure Seiko will launch several beautiful limited editions for it). And yet, despite its short history, the Seiko Presage has become one of the brand’s most popular models and continues to be a staple for new and experienced watch collectors.

The Seiko Presage collection is best known for being the brand’s go-to dress watch, combining traditional watchmaking techniques with timeless and elegant designs. These watches always boast mechanical movements beautifully crafted dials, and their prices are very rarely over the $2,000 mark. It’s also a collection home to several distinctive families, each with their own set of unique characteristics to suit different tastes.

The Presage Sharp Edged Series is one of the more contemporary lines, characterized by its bold angular lines and textured dials. In contrast, the Presage 60’s Style series channels retro elegance, bringing some of Seiko’s mid-20th century watches to life by opting for vintage details and perfectly round cases topped by contrasting bezels. 

Then there’s the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time family, perhaps their best-known model in the collection. This is a range of watches inspired by Japanese cocktail culture, with every design boasting different dial textures and colors to celebrate a specific cocktail.

History of Seiko Presage Watches

As mentioned, the Seiko Presage collection has a short history since the series only first arrived on the watch scene in 2016. But its major popularity in such a short space of time is a true testament to the classic craftsmanship and design expertise coming from the Japanese watchmaker.

Although the Presage name didn’t appear until the mid-2010s, the line-up is inspired by a watch released in 1913 known as the Seiko Laurel. This legendary watch was Seiko’s first-ever mechanical timepiece, boasting a perfectly round case mimicking the shape of a pocket watch, an oversized crown, and a crisp white enamel dial with beautiful navy and red Arabic numerals. It’s the captivating materials and elegant details of the Laurel that the Seiko Presage collection carries on.

Since its launch, the Presage collection has grown to include several unique sub-families, each with their own personality. One of the first was the Presage Cocktail Time, unveiled in 2017, inspired by the vibrant colors and textures of cocktail culture. 

Think lively hues and dazzling dial textures that make you feel like you’re always ready for a night out. In 2018, the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series made its debut, and truthfully, at the time, this felt like a bold move from Seiko, but it was one that paid off. They combined the elegance of the models before it with sharper, more refined cases and textured dials inspired by the hemp-leaf pattern often seen in Japanese culture. 

The Seiko Presage 60’s Style series came next, launched in 2019, bringing a nostalgic nod to Seiko’s vintage designs from the 1960s. This series is often treasured by those who love classic and retro aesthetics. All the Seiko Presage sub-families are beautiful in their own way, offering a completely different take on the dress watch genre. 

If I had to pick just one, though, it would be the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time. It’s the very model I chose as my first mechanical watch, and as I said, it’s a design that rarely leaves my wrist. Here’s why…

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time: In-Depth Review 

Before we jump into the review of the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time watch, it’s worth noting that there’s an almost endless selection of models in this family. There really is something for everyone; there’s a variety of case sizes, case materials, a beautiful spectrum of dial colors and textures, and even a number of different movements and complications to choose from. 

So, no matter whether you’re drawn to the simplicity of a time and date display or you prefer something more complex like a semi-skeletonized dial, GMT, or a power reserve indicator, just know that there’s Seiko Presage Cocktail Time likely to tick all your wrist’s boxes. I’ll try my best to highlight all the standout features in this review, but don’t be afraid to explore the full collection yourself to truly appreciate the breadth of choices available. 

Case Sizes & Materials

Part of the beauty of the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time collection is the vast number of choices on offer. It doesn’t matter if you have tiny five-inch wrists like me or 7-inch wrists and bigger; there is a case size that will perfectly suit you. 

Sizes range from 30mm all the way to 41mm, with case metals varying from classic stainless steel to yellow or rose gold plated. Some models feature a combination of steel and gold for a beautiful dual-toned finish. 

Although slightly different in their size and coloring, every case in the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time series follows the same set of design principles. These are watches that are simple and timeless; they often have relatively low profiles measuring around 12mm in height, so they can easily be slipped under the cuff of a shirt, and bright polished finishing to complete the dressy look. 

A notable feature of the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time case is the crown, which sits, in some cases, as large as 6.5mm, which makes manipulating the time, date, and any other piece of functionality a breeze.

Features like this draw inspiration from the original Seiko Laurel, which also had its own prominent crown. The shape of the crown is also similar in that it gets thicker the further away it gets from the case. It’s also slightly knurled and engraved with the “S” logo. 

Jumping back to the thickness of these designs, much of that is down to the Hardlex crystal glass that is found on top. It has a prevalent dome that adds to its vintage persona. Sure, Hardlex crystal glass isn’t quite as scratch-resistant as luxury sapphire crystal. 

Still, when even the most expensive watch in Seiko’s Cocktail Time collection retails for no more than $800, it’s a worthy and understandable sacrifice. Plus, since these are typically worn as dress watches, you’d hope there’s much less chance of scratching the crystal compared to, say, a tool watch or sports watch.

To cement its status as a dress watch, the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time always arrives with a smooth fixed dial machined from its respective case metal. Again, the finishing is typically brightly polished to match the rest of the architecture’s finish. The cases are also always 50 meters water resistant, a typical rating to find on a dress watch.

Dials

While the cases of the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time watches are beautiful and easily wearable, there’s nothing otherworldly about them. But with the dials, that’s a totally different story. I’ve found that most people get into watches due to one of the following: a love of a brand’s history, an interest in mechanical watchmaking, or a love of design – most specifically, dial design. I’ve always been part of the latter category, and it’s probably the main reason why the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time collection has always been one of my all-time favorites. 

These aren’t just your simple colored dials with printed numerals. These are intricate, well-thought-out displays with meaning. As previously mentioned, the series is inspired by Japan’s cocktail culture, with each dial bringing to life the colors and textures of a specific cocktail. There are dials named after the “Martini”, the “Blue Moon”, the “White Lady” and “Cosmopolitan”, each with their own creamy texture and iridescent color.

It’s impossible to pick a favorite, but if you’re someone new to the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time collection, I’d recommend taking a look at references SRPD37 and SRPB46 to get a good idea of what is on offer. The SRPD37 has a beautiful ribbed finished dial that looks almost like the creases in a fan. 

It’s colored in a deep emerald green, which, thanks to the sunray-like effect, changes color dramatically depending on the angle at which you view it. Similarly, reference SRPB46 has its own textured dial, but this time, inspired by the Manhattan cocktail. It boasts a beautiful coffee-brown hue that gets darker at the edges, matching the rose gold dial hardware and case all too well. 

No matter which dial you choose, each Seiko Presage Cocktail Time watch follows a similar pattern. It presents applied polished hour indices with sharp, almost arrowhead-shaped silhouettes and two dauphine-shaped hands for the hours and minutes. The seconds hand is kept slim and straight and is sometimes colored in a contrasting color compared to the rest of the dial for a nice pop of legibility. 

Those with date complications often present the disc in the same hue as the dial for a subtle integration of the handy feature. There’s also an applied Seiko logo at 12 o’clock, printed minute markings around the circumference, and writing for “Presage Automatic” at 6 o’clock.

As previously stated, some of the models come with additional complications for a less traditional look. There are some beautiful Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Semi-Skeleton watches that present a lovely openwork aperture at 9 o’clock, revealing part of the automatic winding movement working hard inside. For frequent travelers, you might enjoy the Cocktail Time GMT series, which adds a colorful dual-time zone hand and a 24-hour scale around the dial.

Movements

As with all their watches, the Japanese watchmaker only uses mechanical, in-house movements in their Seiko Presage Cocktail Time series. There are several different calibers in use, but one of the most commonly spotted is the Caliber 4R35 automatic movement. It’s the same movement popularly used in some of their higher-end Seiko 5 models and some of their Prospex series, promising classic time and date function and a healthy 41-hour power reserve. 

It also promises a frequency of 21,600 vph with hackable seconds and hand-winding capability. It’s also tested to relatively good levels of accuracy, promising a deviation of no more or less than -35/+45 seconds per day. In some instances, the movement is put on display through the case back, showing off the simple decoration, including a brushed yellow gold oscillating rotor and bridges. 

The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time watches with the semi-skeletonized dials feature an adapted version of the Caliber 4R35 called the 4R38, which promises much of the same specs. Meanwhile, those with added GMT complication utilize the Caliber 4R34, which delivers the same 41-hour power reserve, 3Hz frequency and a total of 24 jewels.

Strap Options

As you’ll quickly find out upon exploring the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time collection, there are a number of strap options to choose from. Many of the models arrive on soft calfskin leather straps, some left smooth, and others embossed with an alligator-like pattern. They are often dyed in hues of black, brown, or navy.

You can also enjoy several metal strap options, all with a five-row link construction made from stainless steel, gold plating, or a mix of both. The bracelets of the Presage Cocktail Time watches are some of the most comfortable I have ever worn, and that includes some well-known luxury models. 

There’s something very satisfying about the flexible five-link construction, and the finishing on the metal is nice, too, boasting a combination of brushed and polished finishing.

The leather straps are completed by classic pin buckles in their respective case metal, while the metal bracelets are equipped with a dual button release folding clasp. The latter does lack any chance of micro-adjustment, but that’s expected on a watch of this price.

Most Popular Seiko Presage Models

As we’ve discussed, the Seiko Presage collection is vast, with numerous families, sizes, dial designs, and complications to choose from. To make your search easier, we’ve handpicked five of our favorite models for you to explore in more detail. These standout pieces showcase the diversity and elegance of the Presage line, offering a blend of style and craftsmanship.

Seiko Presage SRPD37

I briefly mentioned the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRPD37 watch in the review for a reason. It’s a beautiful watch with a deep emerald green dial inspired by the Mockingbird cocktail. It’s detailed with the iconic sunray-like texture that allows the color to change in a different light and is set with silvered hardware and a contrasting yellow gold seconds hand. It arrives with a classic stainless steel case with a 40.5mm width and 11.8mm height and a luxurious dark brown smooth calfskin leather strap.

Seiko Presage SRPE43

Although the sunray textured dial is a common sight in the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time series, there are a handful of models that deviate from this design. The Seiko Presage SRPE43 is one of them, inspired by the light refraction created by cocktail glasses. 

The unique diamond-like finish is colored in a dark blue to mimic the Old Clock Cocktail and set with Arabic numerals – a first for a Seiko Presage Cocktail Time watch. This is also one of the more compact-sized references in the collection, measuring 38.5mm wide in stainless steel but still with enough room to house the Caliber 4R35 automatic movement.

Seiko Presage SRPB46

The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRPB46 offers another unique take on the textured dial. This time, it elects a deep brown gradient effect that starts off almost black at the edges before turning gold at the very center. 

It’s a color that works perfectly with the 40.5mm wide rose gold plated case and rose gold dial hardware. It presents the same domed Hardlex crystal glass, a 50-meter water-resistant rating, and the 41-hour power reserve typical of the Caliber 4R35.

Seiko Presage SRPB43

One of my all-time favorite Seiko Presage Cocktail Time watches, reference SRPB43, is named after the “Skydiving” cocktail, mimicking the colors of the drink with a pale, pastel blue textured dial. The shade of blue looks exquisite beside the 40.5mm wide stainless steel case topped by Hardlex crystal. 

To match, the hour and minute hands are silvered while the seconds is a darker shade of blue for easy legibility. This model is presented on a smooth black calfskin leather strap with gorgeous blue stitching.

Seiko Presage SRPB41

For those with a preference for metal bracelet dress watches, we recommend the Presage Cocktail Time ‘Blue Moon’ watch under reference SRPB41. This one pairs its deep navy dial with a dressy five-row link bracelet with a combination of brushed and polished finishes. 

The bracelet matches the 40.5mm wide and 11.8mm tall case, promising a 50-meter water resistant rating and showcasing the Caliber 4R35 movement through the exhibition case.

Should You Buy A Seiko Presage?

Now I did say in the introduction that I’d try to be as unbiased as possible when it came to reviewing the Seiko Presage. And I hope so far, I have been. But when it comes to answering this question, I’m going to be totally prejudiced and give you my opinion as a proud owner of a Seiko Presage watch. 

The answer is yes, you should absolutely buy one. These are stunning watches with dials that are worthy of a price tag higher than what Seiko advertises them for. I recommend the Seiko Presage to almost everyone I meet, especially those new to collecting and working with a limited budget. They rarely retail for more than $600 and yet still deliver a classy, elegant aesthetic and a reliable mechanical movement. That’s not something easy to find in today’s market, trust me.

Seiko Presage Pricing & Availability

Since the collection is so vast, the price of the Seiko Presage varies depending on which model you are looking at. The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time is one of the more affordable collections, retailing for as little as $420. Those in the Sharp Edged Series are a little higher in price due to the use of sapphire crystal and premium mechanical movements, starting from $950. 

Finally, you can shop the Presage 60’s Style collection brand new for $520. Of course, many models can be found even cheaper on the second-hand market, so don’t be afraid to look there if you’re not fussed about a brand-new timepiece.

But shopping from an authorized dealer, like Exquisite Timepieces, ensures a full warranty and a premium buying experience. And you can view a wide variety of Seiko Presage watches in our boutique in Naples, Florida, or shop online at your leisure.

Conclusion

I have nothing bad to say about the Seiko Presage. I truly believe it to be the perfect entry-level collection for those looking for a beautiful and reliable dress watch. Despite their price, they don’t fall victim to any shortcomings. 

Sure, they swap out the sapphire crystal for more affordable Hardlex, but other than that, there’s very little to excuse such an accessible price. The cases are beautiful, the movements are reliable and in-house, and most importantly, the dials are spectacular and some of the finest at this price point.

The year was 2020, and the vibes, as we used to say, were far from immaculate. The nation was paralyzed by the unknown while simultaneously infatuated with a man known as the Tiger King. 

As a watch enthusiast, I could hardly be bothered by the chaos of a global pandemic as I had my own crosses to bear (although I did get caught up in the Tiger King craze…..weird times!) I had important research to do! All of a sudden, “What watch would you wear in an apocalypse?” seemed a lot more pressing and a lot less hypothetical.

While searching for the piece that would accompany me through anything, I was immediately interested in a watch that would soon be released and set the watch world into a frenzy. The Seiko SPB143. 

It was far from the first time that Seiko released a reintroduction of their iconic 62MAS design, but it was the one that got it right. I immediately pressed pause on Netflix and did what any self-respecting watch enthusiast would do: I became obsessed!

A few months later, this watch was in my hands, and I was ready to go on some adventures, albeit socially distanced. Was this watch the perfect piece I dreamt it would be? Did I finally achieve Watch Nirvana and find my forever watch? Spoiler alert: No and no. Let’s take a look at this darling of the watch community nearly 4 years later and relive the journey.

About The Seiko SPB143

Before jumping into the recreation, we need to spend a little time appreciating the original. By 1965, many of the dive watches we know and love today were already in existence. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Rolex Submariner, and Omega Seamaster had already solidified themselves as the premier tools for professional divers. 

At the same time, the Zodiac Seawolf, as well as many other Skin diver watches, had carved out their own niche in the recreational side of the growing dive community. 

Seiko introduced their first dive watch, model 62MAS, which provided 150M of water resistance and a 37mm case dimension. The Gray dial and black rotating bezel helped to give this watch a unique look against its black-dialed competitors, but in terms of Seiko Divers, this was a very uniform design. 

It wasn’t until years later that the signature 4 O’Clock crown and cushion cases of the Seiko watches we know today became prevalent. The 62MAS is where it started, and if you are looking for a Seiko dive watch that looks and feels familiar, this is the design you’re after.

Case & Materials

The Seiko SPB143 is a 40.5mm dive watch closely resembling the color scheme of the original 62MAS. The Gray dial and 120-click black steel bezel help to give this watch a neutral color scheme that, outside of a formal event, never feels out of place. The look and dimension of this watch are what set it apart from previous iterations.

4 years ago, a modestly sized Seiko dive watch was a bit of a unicorn, especially at 13.2mm thick and 47mm lug to lug. Although slightly behind the trend of competitors like Tudor, this is the watch that opened up the likes of other small wrist-friendly watches, such as the SPB313.

Movement

The movement of the SPB series of watches is the Seiko 6R35, an In-House movement featuring a 70-hour power reserve and a surprisingly wide range of acceptable daily variance at -15/+25 seconds per day. 

I have owned several Seiko watches featuring this movement, and my feelings are somewhat mixed. If you are coming from a Sellita or ETA comparable movement, the accuracy will feel like a bit of a disappointment. What you lose in accuracy, however, you more than make up for in robustness. 

This movement is the epitome of a workhorse and will more than likely outlive you with even the slightest of care. Given the apocalyptic scenario, this criteria seemed far more important than a few seconds of accuracy at the time.

Dial

Adorning this watch, you will see Seiko’s legendary LumiBrite lume and dial finishing much more fitting of a watch 2x or 3x the price. The polished indexes are accented by baton-style hands featuring both mirrored and brushed finishes. The case finishing feels more industrial than something like what you would find with a Black Bay from Tudor. 

The Diashield coating provides an extra layer of protection, ensuring that, unlike the Black Bay, this Seiko will look this great 6 months or even 6 years down the line. The 200M of water resistance and date, either with or without lume plot given the year of production, ensure that you have an ISO-Certified dive watch capable of far more than 99.9% of us will ever throw at it.

Strap Options

The watch was originally sold with a solid stainless steel bracelet featuring the Diashield coating and a large diver’s extension. Combine this with the fact that the bracelet hardly tapered and had a very slight gap where the end link met the lugs, and I’d say this is where Seiko took a slight shortcut. This bracelet is usable and certainly better than anything you’d see on a Seiko dive watch from 5 previous, but it fell kind of flat for a $1,200 watch. 

Thankfully, this can be easily remedied with a cheap spring bar tool and one of the thousands of great NATO, rubber, or even leather straps (I’m not judging….just kidding, of course, I am judging). There are even several third-party bracelets with fitted end links that, although the color will be ever so slightly lighter, thanks to the lack of Diashield, fix a lot of the concerns with the OEM bracelet.

The Seiko SPB143 is a watch that I feel everyone needs to try. Is it perfect? Far from it. But will it make you question whether or not you need to spend more on a watch? I think it will. The level of watch sickness you find yourself inflicted with will determine if that feeling is fleeting or not. 

If you are looking for a tool watch that will be there through thick and thin and become a partner in your everyday adventures, the SPB143 will be hard to beat. If you are looking for a watch to help substitute the desire for another watch you have had your eye on, this will more than likely fall short of those expectations (in all honesty, even the watch you have had your eye on will fail to meet the unrealistic expectations we often put on them).

Should You Buy A Seiko SPB143?

Let’s pick back up with my story. Tiger King has been resumed, and I am back living my day-to-day life, albeit with a face mask and a newfound case of paranoia anytime someone comes near me. 

The Seiko SPB143 is accompanying me on most of my adventures (hiking, kayaking, biking, day drinking, all of the hobbies I excelled in during the pandemic), and for the most part, I was happy. If you keep this watch on your wrist and forget about it, it’s hard not to love. 

Unfortunately, this is where my story takes a turn from the happily-ever-after I expected. I found a new watch. This new watch had a better movement, slimmer proportions, a significantly better bracelet, and its own 2020 hype moment. 

That watch is, of course, the Black Bay 58 with the new blue dial. I foolishly thought that there was a world in which both of these beautiful dive watches could exist in my 3-watch collection. As it turns out I was wrong. 

I found myself favoring the Tudor for most of my adventures, and my one prized Seiko suddenly started collecting dust. Maybe it was the 3x price of the Tudor that made me feel as though I had to wear it, or perhaps it was just the fact that it solved many of the minor faults I found in the SPB143. Either way, a few short days later, I no longer owned what I once considered the perfect Seiko.

So, if it wasn’t for me, who exactly is the Seiko SPB143 for? This watch is an incredible option for someone looking for a watch with which to experience life. If the adventure is more important than the watch’s accuracy on your wrist while you do it, then you’ll love the watch’s robustness. As much as I wanted to be this type of enthusiast, I simply fell short. 

Seiko SPB143 Alternatives

When it was released in 2020, the SPB143 was a game changer. Its modest but thoughtfully considered design made the case and dial feel premium for a watch of $1,200. There was almost no competition or alternatives to consider. A lot has changed in four years. 

Japanese rival Citizen has introduced their own compact and robust dive watches, while the Swiss have managed to produce some great affordable alternatives thanks to the power of the Swatch group. As it turns out however, the Seiko SPB143’s greatest competition comes from within in the form of other Seiko dive watches.

Seiko Prospex SPB421 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation U.S Special Edition

In watch enthusiast circles, Seiko is known for doing 2 things extraordinarily well. First is creating stunning watch dials at affordable prices, and the second is releasing limited edition watches. Thankfully, with the SPB421, Seiko leans into both of their strengths to deliver a watch that is fundamentally the same as the SPB143, yet so different. 

The textured blue dial was designed to pay homage to the icy surface of the Alaska Moulins, which may or may not make you feel a certain way. If the creative marketing team at Seiko doesn’t have you sold, the Grand Seiko inspired textured blue dial certainly will!

Seiko Prospex SPB423 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation U.S Special Edition

Blue not your color? The Seiko SPB423 delivers the same functionality as the Seiko SPB143, with the dial texture of the previously mentioned SPB421, but delivers it in a stunning light to dark gray gradient dial.  If you love the functionality of the SPB143 but want a dial that provides a more interesting finish while still remaining neutral, this may be the version you are after.

Seiko Prospex SPB453 1965 Heritage Diver’s

In 2024, Seiko did something that very few watch enthusiasts saw coming. They provided a refresh to the 62MAS reintroduction of their Prospex line. The new SPB453 is very similar to the SPB143 line while sporting a more discrete 4:30 date window and a traditional black dial and bezel combo. The case is slightly reduced down to 40mm, while the lugs are slightly shorter, and the thickness is dropped down to 13mm. You’d be hard-pressed to pick the two apart in a lineup. That is, of course, until you slap the watch on. 

The stock bracelet, while not perfect, is a significant update and solves many of the minor annoyances with the original. If you are in the market for a Seiko SPB143 but want the most current spec with a refined execution, the SPB453 is an excellent option.

Seiko Prospex SPB455 Seiko Brand 100th Anniversary 1965 Heritage Diver’s Special Edition

Thanks to Seiko’s unwavering commitment to provide a dive watch for every watch enthusiast regardless of their personal style preference, we have the SPB455. This watch carries over all of the refinements of the previously mentioned SPB453 but adds a touch of gilt, and the dial and bezel are slightly muted to a gray charcoal color. There is no doubt that this iteration has its sights set directly on the original Tudor Black Bay 58, and given the price savings, it is certainly a worthy competitor.

Seiko Prospex SJE101 Marinemaster 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation

The Seiko SJE101 Marinemaster is the most interesting 62Mas reintroduction produced today. The refined styling matches more closely to a Rolex Submariner, While the pricing, at roughly $2,800, is a little more than 2x the SPB series and significantly less than anything produced by Rolex or even Tudor for that matter. 

The 6L37 movement powering this watch is a nice improvement from the 6R35 in the SPB143, but the accuracy is still noticeably behind anything produced by Hans Wilsdorf and company. If you look past the accuracy of the movement, this watch may be the biggest sleeper entry-level luxury watch on the market today!

Conclusion

So, there you have it! A long-winded recap of my adventure-ready watch, along with a few alternatives that certainly would have piqued my interest if they were around in 2020. The SPB143 is still a watch that I would recommend to any watch enthusiast. It is uncomplicated and really good at what it aims to be good at. 

The details that pushed me away from Seiko and into the arms of their Swiss rivals are trivial to most people, especially those with more sense than money. Thanks to my unnecessary Tudor upgrade, I have proven myself to no longer have either of those!

Happy watch hunting!