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Rolex Vs. Richard Mille Watches (EVERYTHING You Should Know)

Posted on December 20, 2022January 10, 2023 by James Pollick

In this article we’ll be comparing two true Icons in the timepiece and horology world. Rolex and Richard Mille are both larger-than-life brands that set precedents for current and resell markets as well as setting trends around the globe. For generations brands like these spark inspiration in children and adults alike.

Both a symbol of wealth and success, these timepieces have become a staple of both and are worn by celebrities, professional athletes, and entrepreneurs alike. Both brands of timepieces are extremely rare and extremely valuable. Both companies have legacies spanning years of innovation and design.

Brief History of Brands

Rolex

Once just a dream has flourished into today’s most widely recognizable timepiece and timepiece producer Rolex was founded in 1905 as Wilsdorf and Davis, and Rolex was soon registered as the timepiece company’s name in 1908. This company began with a vision of a portable wearable form as timekeeping.

Today Rolex is renowned for its quality, and accuracy and everyone loves strong resell value when making an investment of this magnitude. As far as reasons why you may want to or already may own a Rolex are up to you, as a Rolex advocate and lover of quality timepieces in general I say you can’t go wrong with any Rolex you can afford.

Richard Mille

Seeded in a constant need for innovation and pushing the limits of what’s possible in the timepiece world Richard Mille was founded in 1999 and has risen to be the apotome of innovation while maintaining subtle class and wealth. Founded with the backing from Ademar’s Piguet has given Richard Mille the opportunity to catapult to the forefront of the most expensive and sought-after timepieces.

Quality coupled with Innovation and rarity all fuel the drive for Richard Mille timepieces. If you are one of the lucky few that can bless your wrist with one of these pieces of art only then can you truly appreciate the greatness that is Richard Mille.

What is more expensive a Rolex or a Richard Mille timepiece, and why?

Rolex

This frequently asked question can begin to be answered by looking a little deeper into initial cost, resell value, and quality. The initial cost of your entry-level Rolex could run you about 5000 to 8000 depending on the model of course.

Not having the highest initial cost of ownership shouldn’t veer anyone away from purchasing a Rolex as their resell values have continued to skyrocket over the past years. The unsurpassed quality of Rolex watches guarantees you get what you pay for and retain the value it deserves in the long run.

Richard Mille

Now let’s look at Richard Mille timepieces. These highly sought-after timepieces are extremely rare and are known for retaining value and reselling well above their initial cost of ownership. The initial cost of a Richard Mille is somewhere around 50000 to 70000.

These figures are not for the faint of heart but rest assured Richard Mille timepieces resell value thrives in the open market due to their constant innovations and precious materials used in assembly.

Movements

Richard Mille quality

Continuing on the theme of Richard Mille vs. Rolex lets next dig deeper into the movements of each. First up Richard Mille. What more can be said about the seamless construction and movements of R.M. timepieces other than innovation and dedication. Richard Mille is dedicated to making the most innovative designs and most efficient movements.

Richard Mille movements

Known for superior movements Richard Mille uses automatic, automatic tourbillon and an automatic flyback chronograph movement that is flawlessly paired with the highest quality building materials available.

Rolex quality

Rolex watches on the other hand have a lot of history on their side as some of the most reliable timepieces ever made. Only using the highest of quality materials in the construction of their movements

Rolex Movements

Rolex watches nowadays are usually either a self-winding automatic or a manual winding movement. Rolex movements are all painstakingly handmade by more than 2000 employees in house at the Bienne manufacturing site in Switzerland.

Origins of design elements

Rolex design origins

Rolex has a modern and vintage catalog that can be divided into two parts the Oyster and the Cellini design. The oyster design refers to any Rolex that has a sealed case invented by the company in 1926 and gets the name from the oyster-like shape and design of the timepiece and bezel.

Cellini in Rolex refers to the famous Italian goldsmith Benvenuto Cellini and his influence on the design of these highly refined timepieces. As for the materials used, the precious metals are all made at an in-house foundry. To ensure the quality you must vigorously inspect this means all Rolex are handmade and are rigorously inspected before leaving the factory.

Richard Mille design origin

Richard Mille design elements can be defined really in two words futuristic and innovative. Tonneau is a word for a barrel type shape and describes the shape of the most recognizable Mille’s. These extremely valuable timepieces can be made from anything including gold, carbon and even sapphire or emerald. The creativity and innovation that drive the innovative designs of Richard Mille are unapparelled and that is represented in the prices of these works of art.

Popular models

Rolex’s Submariner

Always an interesting topic of discussion among friends is what is currently in what’s the current trend in popularity. Here will highlight a choice of the current and popular models of Rolex and Richard Mille on the market today. We will start by discussing a Rolex that remains synonymous with the likes of yachting and diving alike.

The Rolex Submariner remains at the top of a lot of collector’s lists. Considering the rarity and overall build quality its not surprising that I personally witnessed a 1-2 year waitlist for this watch and its no wonder it remains hot on the market.

Richard Mille Pharrell Williams Collaboration

Richard Mille has become a household name and wildly popular for many reasons, build quality, innovation, and of rarity drive prices of these timepieces on the open market through the roof. One Mille in particular ide like to highlight for numerous reasons is the 52-05. Known formally as the RM 52-05 manual tourbillion Pharrell Williams.

This collaboration with music and fashion mogul Pharrell Williams is truly out of this world featuring a wild view of earth from an astronaut on mars this timepiece remains at the top of both the most collectible and rarest watches in the world.

Resell Value

Rolex and the resell markets

A question in everyone’s mind when investing in a high-end timepiece is the resell value or the value in which the timepiece increases after original or factory purchase. Watches such as Rolex and Richard Mille are highly revered in the high end resell market and with good reason.

Rolex with its long revered history not only in timepieces but sponsoring some of the biggest sporting events and teams on the planet, for over 40 years Rolex has sponsored events such as Wimbledon and even a history that goes even further back in yachting.

Richard Mille loves the resell markets

Richard Mille and resell value go hand and hand. Since 1999 RM has made some of the most expensive unobtainable watches on the market today. Richard Mille is so expensive and tend to not only hold and retain but increase in resell value on the secondary or open market because of their innovative technology and extremely limited numbers of each model produced, due to this the timepieces thrive in the resell market.

Warranties

Rolex factory warranty

Something that should always be in the front of someone’s mind when buying a high-end timepiece, especially from the factory is a warranty. Rolex is known for its five-year guarantee of the proper function of its timepieces.

This of course excludes normal wear and tear so of course always be aware of your surroundings when wearing your prized possessions, but at the same time don’t be afraid to wear some wrist candy after all that’s what they’re made for and should be worn accordingly, in my opinion at least.

Richard Mille factory warranty

Richard Mille has a little more intricate warranty as they will cover all timepieces in unworn condition for 2 years, a secondary market used Richard Mille will most likely not be covered under warranty if sold as a used timepiece.

Just to reiterate, buyers should always check warranties from both the factory and secondary dealers before purchasing a high end timepiece just to properly protect your wallet and your investment.

Accuracy

Rolex’s overall timekeeping accuracy

Accuracy is something that is a staple of any high-end timepiece and is truly the sole purpose of a watch is precise timekeeping. Rolex watches are highly refined and extremely accurate, down to about 2 seconds either way per day as stated by a close friend of mine who deals in high-end timepieces.

According to the long-time timepiece dealer, collector his Rolex’s only lose about 5-7 seconds a month, either way, sometimes even less. This statistic beats the average standard of about 10 seconds lost or gained per month per Rolex watch.

Richard Mille overall timekeeping accuracy

Richard Mille.com states that Richard Mille watches are accurate down to about 5-8 seconds per day. This is still extremely accurate considering they have a running standard of no more than a 30-second variation per month either way. This type of artisanship is why Richard Mille lives up to the hype. This proves that the extremely fashionable piece of wrist art does more than just amaze everyone not wearing it.

Bands

Rolex band options and origins

One of the first things I look at and like to test the feel of when trying out a new timepiece is the watch’s band. It’s interesting to think wristwatches weren’t a thing until about 1868 when an already established Patek Philippe made the first wristwatch under the commission of a countess of Hungary. It wasn’t until around the turn of the century when a newspaper ad in Germany depicted a pilot wearing a wristwatch which at the time was known as wristlet.

Soon after everything started to change in the watch world when “Wilsdorf & Davis, which ultimately adopted the trade name Rolex, began experimenting with wristwatches in 1905.” (NYTimes.com, 2013) Then again in “1906 when the Hamilton company produced the first now flexible watch band.” (nytimes.com, 2013)

Richard Mille band options and origins

When choosing a new timepiece the band that comes on the watch can be a make or break. It’s important to know everything about your investment including different bands to personalize or sometimes raise the value. Richard Mille timepieces origins are deeply rooted in motorsports and sports in general.

This makes a proper rubber yet comfortable type material is a must. Richard Mille watch bands can range from simpler but pricey materials such as gold, titanium, and more complex materials such as sapphire, emerald, carbon composite, and carbon TPT.

Popular Features

Richard Mille features

To even begin to talk about the laundry list of features synonymous with Richard Mille you have to start with the materials used in construction that share lineage with both the racing and aviation heritage. For instance, silicone nitrate is almost completely exclusive in the watch world to Richard Mille as this material is primarily used in lightweight racecar parts.

Another intriguing material used seamlessly in the construction of Richard Mille’s is gold infused with carbon and quartz. These materials make Richard Mille timepieces extremely lightweight except for gold of course and make them extremely durable and shock resistant across their whole range of timepieces.

Rolex’s popular features

Rolex on the other hand has its own laundry list of timeless features. The materials used in crafting these works of art are nothing but the best, this can be proven by buying one of the Oyster steel masterpieces. This steel alloy that is specific to the brand is a quality standard other maker wish to achieve. Remaining on the topic of quality Rolex is known to take up to a year to make a watch meticulously retaining their own standard of excellence.

As large of a company as Rolex is they still take time to pressure test every single dive watch that leaves the factory to ensure the best product possible. These are only a few reasons Rolex’s a great investment in any market and retain value so well.

Who makes better daily wear watches? Rolex or Richard Mille?

Richard Mille and daily wear

As mentioned in the above topics discussed Richard Mille Rolex use only the best and most valuable materials in the construction of their timepieces. This is only one of many things that should be taken into account when choosing a daily wear watch.

Richard Mille watches are incredibly lightweight and shock resistant making them resilient to a hit from just about anything and light enough that you may forget you’re even wearing it with some units weighing less than 30 grams. Deeply seeded in sports and celebrities alike Richard Mille is quoted as saying “If our athletes and ambassadors don’t truly love wearing our watches every day, then the collaboration loses its true value.”

Rolex and daily wear

Let’s shift gears to a daily worn icon of celebrities and world elites like Rolex is known for being a tool watch. This essentially means that it is made to stand up to normal use and everyday wear and tear which makes it that much more bang for your buck.

With a little care and some maintenance from time to time, your Rolex will well outlive your everyday use and probably even the next person to wear it every day. This company is devoted to style, utilitarianism, and artisanship making them a fine choice for an everyday timepiece both to make a statement and keep extremely accurate time.

Brand Values

Rolex’s brand value

When you think of timepieces, there aren’t many that come to mind quicker than Rolex or Richard Mille. Some like Richard Mille have come to a long way value-wise in a short time. Rolex on the other hand has been a huge contender in a worldwide watch game for over 100 years.

Founded on the idea of precise timekeeping during a time when most watches weren’t very precise even in the early 1900s. Rolex as a company nowadays is worth roughly 8.5 billion dollars. It’s amazing to think that a dream of precise timekeeping could flourish into one of the most widely recognizable brands on earth.

Richard Mille brand value

Richard Mille founded in 1999 rose rapidly in popularity taking the world by storm with its first timepiece costing approximately 135000 USD. Forever making the company synonymous with elites and the super-wealthy.

The company works under its ownership company which is Montres Nalgene. Today Richard Mille is the flagship brand of this company and worth billions in its own regard and will continue to prosper with the innovation they were founded on.

Why are Richard Mille and Rolex so expensive?

Rolex investing

When opening a conversation about watches one of the focal points is always watch pricing both factory and grey open market pricing. Two of the biggest players in the expensive game of high-end timepiece manufacturing Richard Mille and Rolex are not usually priced for the lighthearted or light funded for that matter.

Let’s breakdown some reasons Rolex’s cost brings now and will continue to bring into the future. First off Rolex has amassed a base of consumers and support but doesn’t meet the supply need for their watches. What this means is they have cornered the supply and demand aspect of their business model by fixing their new timepiece supply thus generating more and more demand, it’s genius really.

A more buyer-friendly reason for their great demand is the fact that a Rolex is more than a timepiece it’s a lifestyle more important economically a Rolex is a great investment and can pretty much guarantee an increase in resale price the longer you keep it and keep it maintained.

Richard Mille investing

Richard Mille and wealth go hand and hand, but most don’t understand innovation and artisanship. From the inside to the outside Richard Mille’s are built with the highest grade materials only. The movement inside a Richard Mille looks futuristic and seems to be crafted in the future.

Made of usually about 90% grade 5 titanium 6% aluminum and about 4% vanadium these futuristic materials had not been seen in watchmaking previous to Richard Mille’s designs. Along with high-grade materials comes lots of labor and hand-working hours of watchmaking. These are the factors that contribute to the overall scarcity of Richard Mille timepieces as a whole.

Richard Mille produces roughly 5000 watches a year which may seem like a lot they gain a ton of value because of very limited models most exclusive models are limited to 500 or fewer pieces with their rarest collection consisting of 1 of 1’s and extremely low number timepieces for only the best standing and wealthiest clients.

Pros and cons

Invest like a pro so you don’t get conned!

Pros and cons are a serious topic and should be weighed when investing in any type of luxury item. For me personally, when it comes to investing in timepieces it all comes down to your current means. I and every other so-called watch enthusiast would have an extensive collection if the proper means were available or presented themselves. This being said it begs the question of whether larger cost equates to a pro or con.

Is cost a pro when investing in timepieces?

In the high end timepiece world, its usually a pro. This thinking follows the theory of the more something costs you the more it will cost to the next guy or just generally in the future if kept in pristine condition.

Counterfeits and fakes

On the flip side, an obvious con to all of this is counterfeits and fakes which are prevalent around the world. These fakes can be extremely well made but aren’t up to the standards of such elites as Rolex or Richard Mille for example.

Being waitlisted

Another con for high-end timepiece buying is long waiting lists at the authorized dealers of Rolex’s or Richard Mille’s. A lot of times it seems once put on these waiting lists if you ever get the chance to own one of these pieces of functional artwork you may not even get a choice in the matter of what model you are allowed to buy at that time based on availability to you personally not what’s fully in stock. This can make it even more challenging to break into the world of high end watch collecting.

Frequently asked questions

When making an investment, especially in the timepiece world make sure to ask as many questions as possible because if your product of interest and dealer or legit they will have no problem answering your questions. The buying side of timepiece collecting can be confusing and challenging while changing day to day.

Let’s go over a few frequently asked questions that everyone should ask when investing in a high end timepiece.

1. What is the movement inside the watch and how many gems does it use in the movement?

The answer to this question can right away distinguish a good or bad investment. Don’t be afraid to straight up ask the opinion of your own expert on the investment quality of a timepiece.

2. How do I know if my dealer is reputable and if my timepiece is real?

Real dealers that are reputable and associated with the watchmakers will be certified and will not be afraid to show you such certification. One easy way to certify an authentic watch is to identify a paper trail of purchase and connect the dots hopefully back to the factory of origin.

You may even be able to identify a serial number or marking and contact the company to confirm or deny if it’s authentic. You may need to send the timepiece to the factory to be authenticated.

3. How does this timepiece stay functioning?

It is important to do your homework on things about the timepiece you want to invest in. Always ask the dealer if the timepiece in question needs batteries, has an automatic power source or it may even be a manual wind.

4. How often do I get my timepiece serviced?

It is very important to have your timepiece serviced on the dates given by the authorized dealer. This servicing will significantly increase the life and overall timekeeping ability of any timepiece.

IWC vs. Rolex Watches (Comparing Two SWISS Giants Head-On!)

Posted on November 30, 2022November 6, 2024 by Mark Trenkler

You find yourself in the market for a new Swiss-made luxury timepiece. You have narrowed your choices to either a Rolex or an IWC (International Watch Company). In this article, I will juxtapose a few of the most popular models from each company.

We’ll start with the background of each watch house and how they became the respected brands they are today. Along the way, you will learn the features, pros, and cons of each brand and their models and walk away illuminated and ready to make your next purchase.

IWC timepieces

IWC or the International Watch Company, as it is more formally known, was founded in 1868 by the American watchmaker and businessman Florentine Ariosto Jones. While in Boston, Massachusetts, Jones conceived the idea of combining advanced American production technologies with the skilled craftsmanship of Swiss watchmakers.

With this mandate, Jones traveled to Switzerland to start his venture. Upon arriving in Switzerland, he did not receive the warmest reception in places like Geneve or other Swiss centers of watchmaking. Perhaps this was due to Jones being a foreigner or that the watchmakers in these regions were wary of an outsider and his vision. Instead of becoming discouraged, he went as far north as he could and set up shop in Schafhausen near the German border and on the Rhine river.

Being on the Rhine river became a prescient decision because it enabled IWC to harness the river’s flow to provide hydroelectric power for its factory. IWC’s first movement was the Jones caliber which led to the introduction of the Pallweber pocket watch in 1885. The Pallweber pocket watch was innovative due to it incorporating a digital display for both the hours and the minutes.

By the end of the nineteenth century, the company was producing wristwatches that featured their caliber 64-pocket watch movements. Every aspect of the production of an IWC timepiece takes place in-house. IWC is a completely vertically integrated watch manufacturer.

Product design, engineering, case, and movement parts production, and hand polishing are all completed at the IWC facility. In addition to the completion of every IWC watch, each is tested in their laboratory for water resistance and pressure parameters, extreme impact testing, and the final inspection before delivery to their exclusive array of dealers worldwide.

The Use and Development of Innovative Materials

IWC is also renowned for its use of innovative materials. Besides platinum and titanium, IWC uses their patented Ceratanium in some of their watches. Ceratanium is a ceramized titanium that is as tough and almost as light as traditional titanium but as hard and scratch resistant as ceramic. The case is used in the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Certanium.

Another patented case material is 18 ct. Armor Gold. This new type of gold is harder and more wear-resistant than conventional 5N gold. 5N gold has a reddish tint due to the combination of 75% yellow 18 ct. gold and 25% copper. The 18 ct. Gold is combined with copper in a process where the microstructure of the alloy is transformed to produce the Armor Gold.

This material is featured in the Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “Le Petit Prince.”
The company also has taken bronze and combined it with copper, aluminum, and iron to produce a case that is 50% harder than standard bronze and nearly as hard as steel. This innovation is reflected in the Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire.

Lastly, IWC has made great inroads into the use of ceramics for creating cases for some of its watches. IWC introduced the world’s first ceramic case watch in 1986. The Davinci Perpetual Calendar featured a white-colored ceramic case. Ceramic is unusually hard and scratch resistant but presents a challenge in the manufacturing of watches.

Ceramic cases are a mixture of powders formed under intense heat. Unfortunately, the cases shrink by almost one-third during the process therefore the design and engineering must be extremely precise so that the accompanying movement fits exactly in the finished case. Today, ceramic cases in black, brown, and sand colors are available in the watch collection.

IWC is a major proponent of using renewable energy, making sustainability a prime focus, and a commitment to accelerating biodiversity efforts within the watch industry. As per the corporate website, the purpose of IWC is “Engineering Beyond Time”. Transparency, circularity, and responsibility are the guiding principles and inspire all that the company pursues.

IWC Models and Collections

Six prominent collections comprise the IWC brand. The “Pilot’s Watch” has a starting retail price of $4250.00. The “Portofino” starts at $5050.00. The “Davinci” with an opening price tag of $5550.00. The “Ingenieur” with an entrance price point of $4750.00. The “Aquatimer” begins at $5950.00. And lastly the “Portugieser” collection.

The “Portugieser” timepieces are some of the most complicated wristwatches produced in Switzerland. The watches exhibit superior craftsmanship and are comparable to works of art. $7500.00 will get you a base model with prices ranging into hundreds of thousands of dollars for the most sophisticated and complicated models.

In addition to the six collections mentioned above, there is also a collection of Grand Complications and a vintage collection of older IWC timepieces. Three IWC Horological specialties are the following watches;

Mechanical Perpetual Calendar is accurate to the year 2499.
The Grand Complication with 659 individual components.
The Tourbillion Mystere is a masterpiece of miniaturization (81 parts weighing a total of.433 grams).

Rolex’s History

Rolex, surprisingly, has been around for a far shorter time than most other luxury Swiss brands. This is an even greater testimony to the success of the Rolex brand and the reputation the company enjoys today. Much of this success is attributable to Hans Wilsdorf, the English entrepreneur responsible for the creation of the brand.

Though conceived in England, Wildorf created the Rolex brand in 1908 and would ultimately move the entire operation to Geneva, Switzerland where he would create the first water-proof self-winding wristwatch with a perpetual rotor. In fact, a patent was issued to Rolex in 1926 for the world’s first waterproof watch, which today is the oyster case.

Rolex has filed for over 500 patents over the history of its existence for innovations that range from its movements to its exclusive Cerachrom bezels and bezel inserts. Cerachrom is a ceramic material that is virtually impervious to scratches and its color is unaffected by the sun’s ultraviolet rays. Rolex today is a completely vertically integrated company with every step of the watch’s conception to completion performed by the Rolex team.

To assure the continued success and commitment to producing the highest quality timepieces, Rolex has an exclusive training center that educates, trains, and acclimates every employee to their culture of excellence as well as one of the most rigorous testing labs to ensure the integrity of every watch.

There is even a department of tribology where the scientific study of friction, wear, lubrication, and how moving parts interact in every aspect of a watch’s movement and physical parts exists in order to continue Rolex’s constant perfection in watchmaking.

Another attribute of the Rolex collection is its commitment to precision and accuracy. In this aspect, Rolex and Zenith share a common trait, though every Rolex is not only a certified chronometer but a superlative chronometer as reflected by the certificate and green seal that accompanies each wristwatch. The parameters of accuracy exceed those required by the COSC. which are -4/+6 seconds per day. The superlative identification reflects a deviation of -2/+2 seconds daily.

IWC Aquatimer vs. Rolex Submariner

The IWC Aquatimer is a diver watch that can trace its original design back to 1967. The newest model boasts many modern features and is rather unique in its appearance as it is a diver watch that appears to be less diver and more like an everyday sports watch for men. The watch case is made of both polished and brushed stainless steel and measures 42 mm. In diameter.

The height of the case is 14 mm. It has an anti-reflective sapphire crystal and is available in either a black or blue dial. The fascinating feature of the dial is that the inner dial indices are treated in a blue color luminescence whereas the outer dial markings shine in a green color luminescence which is evidenced in the dark and underwater.

The combination of colors is striking and distinctly IWC. The watch has a screw-down crown at the three positions and a helium escape valve at the nine positions. The timepiece is water resistant to 300 meters and available with a textured rubber strap which is slightly tapered or a stainless steel bracelet. The movement is an in-house IWC caliber 30120 automatic self-winding movements vibrating at a frequency of 28,800 A/h, with 21 jewels, 163 components, and a 40-hour power reserve.

Another unusual feature of this timepiece is that the lapsed time markings that are usually on the outside watch bezel are located on the outer dial. The bezel is bidirectional and can be used in one direction to set the lapsed time feature but also move in the other direction without affecting the setting of the inner bezel.

The approximate retail price of the strap mode is $6100.00 or $7000.00 with a stainless steel bracelet. The Submariner is one of the Rolex collection’s most popular watches. For comparison, I will elaborate on the base model’s features, which are available in stainless steel in either a date or non-date version. The dimensions of the case are 41mm.

Wide and 48 mm. From lug to lug. The lug width is 20 mm. And the case is 12.5 mm. Thick. The heartbeat of this watch is an automatic mechanical caliber 3130 in-house manufactured Rolex movement. The watch has a power reserve of two days.

The timepiece is outfitted with a sapphire crystal and a cerachrom bezel with markings filled with platinum PVD coating. To round out its appearance the dial has “Blue” chroma light lume markers for easy visibility in the dark or underwater. Water resistance is rated at 300 meters. The approximate retail for the non-date model is $8950.00 and the data model is $10,100.00.

Conclusion

Both timepieces are beautiful and reflect superb fit and finishes. If one has the means, I would own both watches. If I was on a tight budget, I’d go for the Aquatimer. But, with a little bit of leeway, the Sub would be an instant-buy.

IWC Big Pilot vs. Rolex Submariner

Since I elaborated on the Rolex Submariner in the previous comparison, I suggest you refer back to the technical information needed for contrasting the IWC Big Pilot. The IWC Big Pilot is a watch that has a rich history dating back to the 1940s. It has become a smaller, more wearable size in its present configuration. Measurements are as follows; the stainless steel watch case has a diameter of 43 mm., a thickness of 13.2 mm., 52.5 mm lug to lug, and a lug width of 21 mm.

It has a sapphire crystal on both the front and the rear of the watch and comes in a black or blue dial. The markers are treated in a green luminescence and the watch is water-resistant to 100 meters. The riveted leather strap adds a level of distinction as well as sophistication. The caliber 82100 automatic self-winding movement vibrates at a frequency of 28,800 A/h and has a power reserve of 60 hours.

The skeletal back celebrates a host of fine finishes such as Cotes de Geneve (striped and wave configurations), linear brushing, and other artistic embellishments. The approximate retail price for the Big Pilot is $8950.00 on a strap, $9950.00 with a stainless steel bracelet, and $10,500.00 with a ceramic case. Other variations range in price from $9500.00 to 32,800.00.

Conclusion

Both watches are each iconic in their own right. I find that each would appeal to a different potential customer. The Submariner is easily the more recognized of the two, but the oversized beauty of the case and ornate crown, attention to detail, and the skeletal back of the Big Pilot set it apart from the Rolex. At comparable prices both make fine choices.

IWC Ingenieur vs. Rolex Explorer

The Ingenieur is a surprisingly affordable entry into the world of IWC watches. With its 40 mm. Stainless steel case the watch has a height of 10.3 mm. and measures 48.5 mm. from lug to lug. The present Ingenieur model resembles the 1967 Ref. 866 and the 2008 models with its round case and distinct tapered lugs and continues the Ingenieur legacy of water resistance, antimagnetic properties, and high precision.

At the heart of the watch is a Sellita SW300-based caliber 35111 automatic self-winding movement that vibrates at 28,800 A/h and has 25 jewels. It also has a power reserve of 42 hours and is water resistant to 120 meters. The present-day model is available with a silver plated dial (gray in color) with luminescent indices and completed with a black alligator leather strap. The approximate retail price of the strap model is $4750.00. There are four other variations of the Ingenieur available. They are as follows;

The Automatic with 5N gold case $14,000.00
The Chronograph $8200.00
Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month $47,900.00

The Rolex Explorer is a rather basic-looking watch that is known for its all-around durability. The Explorer can withstand the toughest conditions and maintain its precision. The diameter of the case is 36 mm. , measures 43 mm. from lug to lug, and has a case thickness of 11.5 mm. The case and bracelet are comprised of stainless steel and the bracelet features the oyster design and has an oyster lock folding clasp.

The watch has a sapphire crystal and a black dial with indexes and the distinct 3, 6, and 9 Arabic numerals treated with chromalight and providing a blue goal in the dark. The in-house manufactured caliber 3230 mechanical self-winding movement highlights several improvements in the areas of precision, power reserve ability (70 hours), resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, and reliability.

The movement incorporates the Chronenergy escapement (Rolex patented) which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. The paramagnetic blue parachrom hairspring along with the palette lever and escapement (made of nickel-phosphorus and produced by Micro Electro Mechanical Systems) are completely impervious to the effects of magnetism.

The movement is also outfitted with patented Paraflex shock absorbers that protect the balance staff and increase the shock resistance of the timepiece by 50% without sacrificing its chronometer performance. Accuracy according to Rolex is +/- 2 seconds per day. The Explorer is water resistant to 100 meters and retails for an approximate price of $7200.00.

If ease of repair and maintenance are determining factors in your watch purchase, the Explorer enjoys a reputation among watchmakers as a relatively simple watch to maintain and repair. In other words, an uncomplicated yet highly efficient timepiece.

Conclusion

I give the edge to the IWC Ingenieur purely for appearance. The Rolex Explorer is an incredibly durable watch and incorporates great technology and innovation as reflected in this article, but the watch is plain and simple.

IWC Ingenieur vs. Rolex Milgauss

I refer you to the previous paragraphs to review the features of the IWC Ingenieur as it was contrasted with the Rolex Explorer. The Rolex Milgauss is constructed of 904L oyster steel and measures 40 mm. in diameter and is outfitted with a patented Rolex screw-down crown. At the heart of the Milgauss is a Rolex caliber 3131 self-winding mechanical movement which is a certified Swiss chronometer accurate to +/- 2 seconds per day.

The power reserve feature is 48 hours and the movement’s oscillator is a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring. The watch sports a Z blue dial with luminescent markers and a green sapphire crystal. Rolex created this crystal and it is scratch-proof, fade-proof, and exclusively found on the Milgauss.

This crystal took years to develop and takes weeks to manufacture. In addition, the watch has a striking orange colored lightning bolt for a second hand and sports orange indices and Arabic numerals every 5 minutes on the outer ring of the dial.

The watch is highly resistant to magnetic fields due to a shield of ferromagnetic alloys surrounding and protecting the movement. Lastly, the watch is water resistant to 100 meters with an approximate retail price of $9150.00

Conclusion

The Rolex Milgauss is a great-looking and distinctive watch in comparison to the IWC Ingeniuer. Granted, the Milgauss is almost twice the price of the Ingenieur but the combination of the blue dial with orange accents and the green-colored crystal give it a unique and very appealing appearance. The technical features and quality of the Milgauss should satisfy any sportsman or anyone looking for something different for their everyday watch. I like both but I give the edge to the Rolex Milgauss.

FAQ’s

Does Rolex or IWC have a better warranty?

The warranty on a Rolex watch is five years. The IWC comes with a two-year warranty, but can be extended for an additional six years (For a total of eight years) if you register the watch on the company website within the initial two-year period.

Is Rolex or IWC the higher quality timepiece?

Both brands are equal in terms of quality. The technology evident in each brand’s movements and design, along with the use of the best possible materials make each comparable to one another. Attention to detail and finishes are superb with either brand.

Does a Rolex or an IWC wristwatch hold its value?

Rolex watches hold their value better than almost any other Swiss luxury brand except maybe Patek Philippe. IWCs will have some depreciation but over the long haul may appreciate especially concerning the more complicated and rarer timepieces.

Is IWC or Rolex more recognizable?

Rolex is the most recognizable Swiss luxury watch brand in the world, but the IWC brand is one of the ten most recognizable names amongst the Swiss watch elite.

Blancpain vs. Rolex Watches – Who WINS the Timepieces Battle?

Posted on November 30, 2022July 24, 2023 by Mark Trenkler

In this article, I will take as deep a dive into these two iconic brands as possible to help answer some of the questions you might have concerning the purchase of either a Rolex or Blancpain timepiece. Along the way, you will get an overview of what makes these two brands tick, as I will share a brief history of each brand and then expound on a few of each company’s popular models, their movements, and what makes each brand iconic among watchmakers.

Blancpain- World’s Oldest Swiss Watch Brand

Blancpain was established in Villeret, Switzerland in 1735 by Jehan Jacques Blancpain. It is considered the oldest Swiss watch brand that is still in operation today. In 1825, Blancpain’s grandson Frederic Louis Blancpain improved the original workshop and developed a modified watch escapement design. This along with the pursuit of ultra-thin construction became the foundation for the brand.

In 1830, Frederic Emile Blancpain, son of Frederic Louis, sets up the largest watch manufacturer in Villeret and renames the company Fabrique d’Horolgerie Emile Blancpain. In 1859, Louis Elysee Piguet opens a world-class watchmaking shop in Vallee de Joux and is commissioned by several high-end Swiss brands to create watches with various complications.

1932 saw the passing of Frederic Emile Blancpain. With his passing, the company was left to his longtime assistant Betty Fiechter. Fiechter became the first women CEO of a swiss watch brand. Due to Swiss laws, this presented a dilemma since there was no longer a member of the original founding family involved in the business. The name had to be changed to accommodate these laws and Rayville S.A. succ. Blancpain was established.

For the next twenty years, Betty comanaged the brand with her nephew, Jean Jaques Fiechter. By the end of the 1950s, the company was manufacturing about 100,000 watches per year. Due to the growing demand for their watches, Rayville was purchased by SSIH (Societe Suisse pour l’Industrie Horlogerie). By 1982, SSIH was purchased by Jacques Piguet and the company name changed once again to Blancpain S.A. Today the brand is owned by the Swiss watch conglomerate SMH (the Swatch Group).

Several milestones in the history of Blancpain are as follows:

1983- created the world’s smallest moon phases display.
1987- developed the thinnest self-winding chronograph and the smallest minute repeater movement at the time in the world.
1988- created the thinnest split-seconds chronograph at the time.
1991- introduced the 1735 Grande Complication (one of the most complicated watches in the world with a tourbillon, minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and split chronograph).
2000- first self-winding tourbillon and perpetual calendar with an 8-day power reserve.
2008- introduced the world’s first movement with a one-minute flying carousel and 100-hour power reserve.

An interesting fact is that Blancpain has never offered a watch with a quartz movement. In fact, the brand’s motto is “Blancpain has never made a quartz watch and never will.” Following the success of the Fifty Fathoms collection, Blancpain has made a commitment to supporting the preservation of the oceans and the seas worldwide through various initiatives.

The company has established a three-prong approach to achieving these goals by raising awareness of the beauty of the ocean, contributing to scientific research, and implementing efficient ocean conservation measures.

Rolex’s History

Rolex, surprisingly, has been around for a far shorter time than most other luxury Swiss brands (like Richard Mille and Hublot). This is an even greater testimony to the success of the Rolex brand and the reputation the company enjoys today. Much of this success is attributable to Hans Wilsdorf, the English entrepreneur responsible for the creation of the brand.

To ensure continued success and commitment to producing the highest quality timepieces, Rolex has an exclusive training center that educates, trains, and acclimates every employee to their culture of excellence as well as one of the most rigorous testing labs to ensure the integrity of every watch.

Another attribute of the Rolex collection is its commitment to precision and accuracy. Every Rolex is not only a certified chronometer but a superlative chronometer as reflected by the certificate and green seal that accompanies each wristwatch. The parameters of accuracy exceed those required by the COSC, which are -4/+6 seconds per day. The superlative identification reflects a deviation of -2/+2 seconds daily.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms vs. Rolex Submariner

The iconic Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was launched in 1953 and was the first real deep-sea scuba diving watch. Shortly thereafter, the Rolex Submariner was brought to market in that very same year but Blancpain was first to the party. The watch was birthed out of the efforts of Captain Robert Maloubier and LT. Claude Riffaud of the French navy.

The two were commissioned to pioneer underwater special operations which required a timepiece that could withstand great depth and with great water resistance. There were four features that the two desired to have incorporated into the watch. High water resistance, a black dial, an external bezel to track time, and luminous markers so that it was easily readable in the dark and underwater.

Then Blancpain CEO Jean-Jacques Fiechter, also a fellow diver, took the mandate of these French naval officers and the Fifty Fathoms was created and launched. The Fifty Fathoms has a stainless steel case that measures 45 mm. in diameter. It is 15.5 mm. thick and is 23 mm. between each lug. The watch is available in either a black or blue dial with an interesting smaller circle on the dial as if the markers were perched on it, and a date window between the four and five o’clock markers.

It has Arabic numerals at the three, six, nine, and twelve positions with triangular-shaped indexes in between the Arabic markers. All are treated with luminous for easy readability. The watch is protected by a sapphire crystal. The watch has an in-house Blancpain caliber 1315 mechanical automatic movement featuring 227 components, and 35 jewels, and vibrates at 4 Hz with a 120-hour power reserve.

The movement is shielded by an antimagnetic cage. The approximate retail price of the three base models are as follows:

Stainless steel case with a sail canvas strap with buckle $14,500.00
Titanium case with a sail canvas strap and buckle $15,700.00
Stainless steel case and bracelet $17,200.00

The Submariner is one of the Rolex collection’s most popular watches. For comparison, I will elaborate on the base model’s features, which are available in 904L stainless steel in either a date or non-date version. In keeping with a more accurate comparison with the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms watch, I will elaborate on the Rolex date model.

The dimensions of the case are 41mm. wide and 48 mm. from lug to lug. The lug width is 20 mm. and the case is 12.5 mm. thick. The heartbeat of this watch is an automatic mechanical caliber 3235 in-house manufactured Rolex movement.

It consists of 201 components, and 31 jewels, and vibrates at 28,800 V/h. The watch employs a bidirectional rotor, a paramagnetic blue parachrom hairspring, high-performance paraflex shock absorbers, Chronergy escapement (Rolex patented, combining high energy efficiency and superior dependability), and a paramagnetic oscillator balance staff.

The virtually scratchproof Cerachron ceramic bezel is sixty clicks and unidirectional The watch has a power reserve of 70 hours. The timepiece is outfitted with a scratch-proof sapphire crystal and a cerachrom bezel with markings filled with platinum PVD coating. There is a cyclops magnifier over the date window, a common characteristic of Rolex watches.

To round out its appearance the dial has “Blue” chroma light lume markers for easy visibility in the dark or underwater and, according to the company, last for up to eight hours. The rugged oyster steel bracelet with oyster lock clasp compliments the appearance of the Submariner.

Water resistance is rated at 300 meters. The approximate retail for the non-date model is $8950.00 with the date model running about $10,100.00.

Conclusion

In comparing the movements in each of the watches, I would give the edge to the Fifty Fathoms for its power reserve feature, but the new Rolex caliber 3235 movements is no slouch. As per Rolex, the caliber 3235 movement replaces the caliber 3135 movements in previous Submariner date models. This movement is constructed with 90% newer components and is covered by fourteen patents.

Great improvement has been made in efficiency and dependability, and as always, the Submariner enjoys a solid reputation among watchmakers as being easy to service and maintain. One advantage of the Fifty Fathoms is that it is available in a strap model, unlike the Submariner, and you do have the choice of a titanium case if that is your preference.

On the subject of price, the Rolex appears to be a better purchase choice. The Rolex is equally as comfortable worn in the office and for diving and there is always the cache of wearing a brand that is equally recognizable and prestigious. I would go with the Submariner.

Rolex Submariner vs. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms No Radiation

The technical information for the Rolex Submariner is found in the previous paragraphs. Now I will dive into the features of the Fifty Fathoms No Radiation model. The Fifty Fathoms No Radiation watch is a limited edition tribute to the original model that was introduced in the 1960s. At that time awareness of the harmfulness of radioactive materials to the human body was rising.

Many of the lume used in watches at the time employed radioactive materials. Blancpain set out to create a “no radioactive” luminous treatment for their indexes, hands, etc. This model is easily recognizable by the yellow and red no radiation stamp on the dial right above the six o’clock position. This is on a stark black dial with a date window at the three o’clock position.

The luminous is colored super-luminova which recreates the patina of the original “old radium” look that was retired. The case is 40.3 mm. In diameter and 13 mm. Thick. The distance between the lugs is 20 mm. And the case is polished as opposed to brush finished as in other Fifty Fathom variations. The mechanical automatic caliber 1151 movement measures 27,4 mm and 3.25 mm. Thick.

It is a 28-jewel movement with 210 components, vibrating at 3 Hz, and possessing a silicon balance spring. The power reserve capacity is 100 hours. It has a sapphire bezel which is unidirectional and sixty clicks. The diver is water-resistant to 300 meters and comes with a black rubber strap. Another aspect of this particular timepiece is that it is considered one of Blancpain’s “ultra-thin” models. One of these 500 limited edition pieces will cost approximately $14,100.00.

Conclusion

I will stick with my recommendation, and choose the Rolex Submariner over the Fifty Fathoms No Radiation timepiece. For reasons set forth in the previous conclusion in this article, I believe for the price, you get a fuller package with The Submariner. Appearance, utility, rugged construction, and an easy-to-use watch. The allure of the Fifty Fathoms No Radiation being a limited edition piece will attract its share of potential customers, but for the most part, I believe the Submariner has the edge.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms vs. Rolex Sea Dweller

I refer you to the characteristics and technological aspects of the Fifty Fathoms watch mentioned earlier in this article. I will now delve into the Rolex Sea Dweller and its features. The Rolex Sea Dweller was introduced in 1967, and quickly became a classic amongst deep-sea diving enthusiasts. The Sea Dweller is water resistant to 1220 meters or 4000 feet.

The deep sea features were amped up to include a 60-click unidirectional ceramic bezel with a Cerachrom (Rolex patented) bezel insert that was scratchproof. The dial features a chromalight display with a distinctive blue glow luminescence that lasts for up to eight hours and makes the watch very easy to read in the depths of the sea. The hands and indexes were also enlarged for easier readability.

The case measures 43 mm. in diameter and is constructed of 904L stainless steel which is highly durable and non-corrosive. The crown is a screw-down type that features Rolex’s Triplock triple waterproof system. The Sea-Dweller also comes equipped with a helium escape valve that operates automatically. When the difference in pressure between the inside and the outside of the watch reaches three to five bars, the valve opens allowing the built-up helium to escape the case.

The Caliber 3235 mechanical automatic movement is the latest incarnation from Rolex and is the same movement found in the new Submariner. For all the improvements and descriptions of this movement, I refer you to the Rolex Submariner information written earlier in this article.

The Sea Dweller in all 904L stainless steel sells for approximately $12,950.00. You can opt for an oyster steel and 18-carat model (Featuring Rolesor- the Rolex patented name for the combination of these two materials) for approximately $17,000.00

Conclusion

I give the advantage to the Rolex Sea Dweller. The watch has superior water resistance to the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and the added security of the helium escape valve keeps the watch intact. The Rolex Sea Dweller is also available for approximately $4000.00 less than the Fifty Fathoms.

For my taste, I prefer the look of the Sea Dweller. Coupled with all the advancements and enhancements of the current caliber movement, I believe this is a solid choice.

Blancpain Caliber 1315 Movement vs. Rolex Caliber 3135 Movement

The Blancpain Caliber 1315 movement measures 30.6 mm. in diameter and is 5.65 mm. Thick. The mechanical automatic is comprised of 227 components, 35 jewels, and vibrates at a speed of 4 Hz. For an excellent deconstruction and explanation of this movement.

The Rolex caliber 3135 movement is regarded as one of the most well-known and recognized automatic self-winding movements within the Rolex brand. The COSC-certified automatic self-winding movement measures 28.5 mm. In diameter and has a height of 6 mm. The in-house manufactured movement is made up of approximately 200 components and 31 jewels.

The movement operates at 28,800V/h. Standouts of the movement include a Parachrom blue hairspring, a Swiss lever escapement, a bidirectional winding Teflon-coated rotor, and a Glucydor balance wheel. The power reserve is 48 hours.

Note: Parachrom blue is a combination of niobium and zirconium / Glucydor is a combination of beryllium and copper.

Conclusion

Both are excellent movements The Rolex caliber 3135 has been upgraded to a caliber 3235 which has been discussed at length in this article. The biggest and most obvious difference is in the power reserve features for both movements. With the Blancpain, you get a 120-hour power reserve as opposed to the Rolex which is 48 hours.

If this is an important trait of the watch you wish to wear then the Blancpain would be your choice. The Blancpain may be more elegant in its finishes, but this model comes with a steel back so you can not enjoy the artistic nuances. Since Rolex has never offered a skeletal back, finishes have taken a back seat to precision and durability.

Best Alternative to a Rolex

There are several alternative watch brands that offer timepieces that have the appearance and features of many Rolex models such as IWC. They range in price from very affordable to Rolex-level prices. I have assembled an extensive list of timepieces that are comparable to the basic oyster gent’s watch. Their approximate retail prices are reflected on the list. Many of the models even exceed the features available in the basic oyster perpetual watch. They are as follows:

Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium $ 775.00
Longines Conquest 39 mm. $1250.00
Sinn 5561 $1530.00
Monta Noble $1795.00
Ball Engineer lll Marvelight $2350.00
Tag Heuer Carrera Date $3000.00
Tudor Black Bat 36 $3050.00
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra $5700.00
Grand Seiko SLGA009 $9100.00

Three other alternatives to popular Rolex models are the following:

For the Rolex Submariner, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300 m. @$5400.00
For the Rolex Daytona, the Zenith Chronomaster Sport @$11,000.00
For the Rolex GMT Master 2, the Tudor Black Bay GMT @$4175.00

FAQ’s

Who has a better warranty, Rolex or Blancpain?

Rolex offers a five-year international warranty whereas the Blancpain watches come with a standard two-year warranty that is extended an additional year if you purchase your Blancpain watch at one of their boutiques.

Better value, Rolex or Blancpain?

Rolex watches retain their value probably better than any other Swiss luxury watch brand except Patek Philippe. Blancpain watches do appreciate over time due to their limited quantity produced yearly and because of their reputation for complications and longevity. Over longer periods of time, and maintaining the watch’s condition, you should experience appreciation in value over time.

Longines Vs. Rolex Watches (Is The King Overpriced?)

Posted on November 30, 2022October 5, 2023 by James Ede

If you’re new to the luxury watch scene, it’s easy to quickly say “Longines or Rolex” is a brain-dead comparison. See it this way. Rolex is the number one watchmaker in the world, and any timepiece from the brand is synonymous with wealth, craftsmanship, and engineering wonder.

Longines is also a prestigious watchmaker with a long and successful history. It’s been one of the top 5 swiss watchmakers for centuries and produces precision watches that appeal to a mass audience. But how do they compare with the King, Rolex?

Folks come in asking about these two brands, so we’ve shared this guide to explain all you need to know. Whether you’re trying to choose between buying a vintage Longines or considering if a Rolex is worth saving up for, you’ll find answers. This article explains their history, craftsmanship, watch quality, popularity, and price to help you make an informed decision.

Similarities and Differences Between Longines And Rolex

It’s always a long read to cherish the culture of a watchmaker, so here’s a summary of their similarities and differences before we dive in.

Similarities

Both are Swiss watchmakers
They are both older than a century
Both make precise mechanical watches
Both started with a different name
Both created their masterpieces with outside help
Both offer COSC-certified watches

Differences

Longines is an entry-level luxury watch brand, while Rolex is both a luxury and ultra-luxury brand.
Rolex has a 5-year warranty, whereas Longines offers a 2-year limited warranty.
It’s cheaper and more convenient to buy replacement straps for a Longines watch than a Rolex

Now let’s dive deeper into the history of these prestigious watchmakers to unearth the values and traditions that kept them in business.

Longines’ Long and Rich History

Longines was established in 1832 by Auguste Agassiz in the mountains of St Imier, Switzerland.
Because of Auguste’s partnerships with two lawyers, Henri Raguel and Florian Morel, the company was initially called Raiguel Jeune & Cie. After the duo retired fourteen years later, Auguste assumed sole ownership.

Auguste then set the wheel of success and prestige in motion when he brought in his nephew, Ernest Francillon, as a mentor years later. His mentee made a bold first impression of producing only crown-wound pocketwatches in an era of key-wound pocket watches (time flies!). So Auguste ultimately passed on the company to Ernest when he retired from weary health.

Under Ernest Francillon, the swiss watch manufacturer focused on mass production in the 1860s. He built a solid reputation for Longines, but they soon became the target of counterfeiters, who stole business and nearly tarnished that image (crucial for a luxury watch company). So he patented the company name in 1880 and registered the oldest valid trademark, Longines’ iconic winged hourglass logo, in 1889.

They survived and flourished well into the 1980s with constant innovative designs while still affordable. Longines joined the 35 billion dollars valued Swatch Group – which includes big wigs like Omega SA, ETA, and Tissot – in the 1980s. The Saint-Imier-based watchmaker now uses movements from ETA (a prestigious conglomerate of swiss movement manufacturers). It’s not the best look for a luxury brand to outsource movement making, but it is perfect for Longines’ dedication to mass production.

Mass-Production Marketing

Longines’ quick transition to mass production started under Ernest Francillon when he built the factory in 1867. But we must credit the genius of his Technical Director, Jacques Davido, who ran the factory and created its first in-house movement in the same year – the 20A. Since then, they’ve sealed their place in history books as one of the largest watch brands with retailers and distributors worldwide.

Fun fact: Longines is named after the field its factory has sat on since 1867. It was called Es Longines, meaning the “Long Meadow.”

Rolex’s Century-Old Quest for First

Rolex entered the watchmaking industry relatively late but came in with a bang in 1905. The brand was first known as Wilsdorf and Davis but changed to Rolex SA in 1920 (and moved to Geneva, Switzerland).

A 24-year-old, Hans Wilsdorf, and his brother-in-law, Alfred Davis, established the company in London. It all started as a hustle. They imported Hermann Aegler Swiss movements, fit them in Dennison watch cases (all iconic watchmakers in their right), and sold them to Jewelers (without branding).

Rolex released many firsts, but the creation of the renowned oyster case – still used in most Rolex watches – put them on the trajectory of world domination in 1926. Hans Wilsdorf’s innovation was sparked by an issue of water and dust damaging watch movements. So he hired a case maker to build the world’s first waterproof and dustproof watch. He bought the patent from the innovators and marketed aggressively and exclusively – a tradition Rolex has held on to.

Exclusivity Marketing

Rolex’s founder, Hans Wilsdorf, believes, “Only marketing is needed to make a company successful.” Some of his many striking campaigns include displaying Rolex oyster watches in aquariums at their point-of-sale stores. But Hans’s genius 1927 marketing put Rolex on the map, as we hinted earlier. He gave an oyster-cased necklace watch to Mercedes Glietze as she prepared to become the first British woman to swim the English Channel.

The neck watch remained accurate and completely dry after the 10-hour swim in murky waters. In typical Rolex fashion, Hans Wilsdorf brilliantly advertised the historic feat on Daily Mail’s front page for a month straight. Since its inception, the brand has used this strategy of gifting pioneers appropriate Rolex watches to test in the field.

The first people to summit Mount Everest, Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, for example, wore Rolex watches and were honored with the release of the Explorer models. Today, Rolex combines aggressive marketing, sponsorships, and limited supply to seal its place as one of the most valuable watchmakers in history.

If you didn’t know, Tudor is a Rolex subsidiary targeting enthusiasts who want a “cheap” Rolex – they use similar cases and bracelets but use off-the-shelf movements. Rolex has continued the tradition by sponsoring prestigious events, signing artists and sports icons, and testing timepieces in historic expeditions.

Fun fact: Rolex is a private firm operated through the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation (no public shares).

Prestige And Popularity

Longines and Rolex control half of the Swiss watch market shares along with Omega and Cartier. So we know they both sell like crazy, even though Longines has to achieve this with more units sold. In recent research, they dropped to fifth but remained a force to reckon with. Rolex, however, is in a different league and more in competition with brands like Richard Mille and Audemars Piguet for prestige for world domination.

I won’t be surprised if anyone knew about Rolex watches since they were teenagers, but it will amaze me if they know Longines. Rolex outshines Longines mainly because they not only market to high society circles but also target mainstream media. As a result, Rolex is present in the entertainment, sports, arts, exploration, technology, and even the wildlife scene, with sponsorships, endorsements, and loyal fans doubling as influencers.

Longines And High-Life Sponsorships

The St-Imier-based watchmaker, started supplying prestigious New York sporting officials as far back as the 1800s. With such early momentum, you’d already expect Longines to be a behemoth in mainstream sports. But instead, they only dominate elegant sporting events like horse racing, archery, and equestrianism.

Longines is the official timekeeper of the FEI Show Jumping World Cup, Archery World Cup, French Open, and Commonwealth Games. They even sponsored Formula One during the 1980s and continue to support other international skiing and horse racing events.

Rolex And Planet Domination

Rolex’s official sponsorships go deeper than sports into sea and space exploration, wildlife and arctic research, motorsports to yachting, and equestrian sports. They are also timekeepers for multicultural organizations and political leaders.

The Swiss luxury brand boasts o durability by regularly giving explorers, researchers, and astronauts Rolex watches on their expeditions. As a result, Rolex watches have survived space, the deepest ocean dives, arctic regions, and the highest mountains.

Rolex doesn’t fail to leave a mark in sports. Almost every sporting legend has at one time been a Rolex ambassador. In addition, they’re official sponsors of all four grand slam (U.S, Wimbledon, French, and Australian Open) tournaments and the Paris, Monte-Carlo, and Shanghai Masters. It’d take a long-form blog post to capture the depth of Rolex’s reach in sports, arts, and exploration.

See the list of superstars and celebs who’ve worn either watch brand to compare:

Most Iconic Rolex Wearers

Paul Newman – his Rolex Daytona (Ref. 6239) is the most expensive watch Rolex sold at an auction
Roger Federer
British Royal Family
Too many notable figures to mention

Most Iconic Longines Wearers

Charles Lindbergh
Albert Einstein
Jennifer Lawrence
Humprey Bogart
British Royal Family
Andre Agassi

Hopefully, you’ll notice a trend of how Rolex attracts only the best of the best. As a result, it’s not fair fighting ground regarding who’s more famous between both brands. So, let’s see who fairs better in craftsmanship.

Craftsmanship

Avid horologists know it’s not just telling time that makes a luxury brand but its prestige, complications, and attention to detail, among others. Look at it this way, the Swiss industry is known for world-class watchmaking, and Rolex and Longines use the best crop. While Longines and Rolex employ world-class artists, the quality of their timepieces varies as much as we want to think Rolex is overpriced. Here’s an overview of how they craft watch parts.

Cases

The most common case material both swiss watchmaking behemoths use is stainless steel. The Longines steel is known to be durable and reasonably scratch-resistant, simply as durable as a Rolex. But Rolex uses a patent steel material, Oystersteel, which is exclusive to the brand and has been field-tested in the harshest conditions, as you’ve learned earlier.

Movements

The two brands produce mechanical movements in-house, but Rolex makes it a tradition. The Swiss watchmaker stopped all production of quartz movement in 2001 after 30 years of experiments. The dedication to in-house production and obtaining COSC accuracy certifications could take a year to produce one Rolex timepiece.

Nevertheless, the traditional craftsmanship of the Geneva-based watchmaker is what many watch lovers, enthusiasts, and collectors value over any Longines. That’s not to say Longines movements are inferior. However, they also produce Quartz movements that are cheaper and unartistic to most connoisseurs.

But the dealbreaker is that Longines’ mechanical movements also come from their sister company ETA SA, not in-house. Nevertheless, they are still reputable watchmakers, with an output of only 20 percent quartz watches and 80% mechanical movements. But the attention to detail and finishing of Rolex is unmatched.

Bracelets

We see a similar trend of functionality and exclusivity in making Longines and Rolex bracelets. The former makes durable watches that are readily available for replacement. But Rolex bracelets combine durability, exclusivity, and function.

These qualities justify the price gap between both brands that you’ll see soon in this article. For one, Longines sells replacement stainless steel, leather, rubber, and NATO straps that you can swap for under $300. In addition, you can have a collection of watch bands to dress different occasions.

Meanwhile, only Rolex Cellini models use a leather strap, and you must contact their service center for a replacement bracelet (of any Rolex watch). Also, Rolex’s Oysterflex rubber bracelet is only available in 18-carat gold editions of the Yachtmaster, Daytona, and Sky-Dweller. Finally, Rolex’s celebrated stainless steel bracelets, the Oyster and Jubillee, are highly scratch-resistant and comfortable with on-the-fly micro-adjustments.

Here’s the thing. A typical Rolex strap replacement costs anywhere from $1,000 to about $5,000 and could take weeks. You must have the corresponding watch model as proof, plus Rolex keeps the old band. It’s this exclusive in-house servicing that makes Rolex more valuable. But Longines gives the owners to buy straps online or at an authorized local watch repair shop.

Ultimately, Rolex bracelets are one of the best in – if not the best – industry. Longines can only be proud that its straps are durable and comfortable, not compete with Rolex.

Price Is A Big Rolex Win

Rolex is unsurprisingly out of Longines’ league for watch price points. The cheapest new or used Rolex costs more than 10x the price of a Longines. To put it in perspective, a Rolex Datejust (the brand’s most affordable collection) costs around $5,000 to $6,000, and a Longines Conquest V.H.P. (their most inexpensive model) for under $1000.

It looks unfair to compare a Longines’ quartz watch to a Rolex. So we’ll size up Longines flagship line, the HydroConquest, which costs anywhere from $1200 to around $2,500. That’s still less than two times the price of a Rolex Datejust.

Although some critics appeal that Rolex watches are overpriced, they’re clearly in different luxury brand categories. Longines (entry-level luxury) has focused on mass production for nearly 200 years, but Rolex becomes more exclusive by the year (ultra-luxury brand).

Comparing Longines HydroConquest To The Rolex Submariner

Coming off a price revelation, it’s only practical you see what makes the difference with a side-to-side comparison of both watchmakers’ watches. For this, we use pit Longines HydroConquest against Rolex’s flagship diver’s watch (this is a hot debate among watch connoisseurs).

HydroConquest ref. L3.883.4.96.9 Vs. Submariner

This won’t be an apples-to-apples comparison. It will take an entire post to cover. But you’ll understand why Longines might appeal to you and not just drool over Rolex’s glaring value. That’s why the price difference is the first thing that jumps at you between the two watchmaker’s diver’s watch collections.

The HydroConquest ref. L3.883.4.96.9 (the most expensive model) costs around $3,000, and a Submariner No Date ref. 114060 (one of the cheapest models) costs anywhere from $11,000 to about $15,000. What makes Rolex more expensive? Do they have superior features to Longines’? Or are they overpriced, as rumored?

Diving

The HydroConquest can reach depths of 300 meters, while the Rolex Submariner is field tested for 300 meters. Of course, most wearers won’t take a swim to talk less of a dive with either, but it’s refreshing to know they’re equal in dive capacities.

Steel Casing and Bracelet

Both watches have corrosion-resistant ceramic bezels for underwater use and stainless steel case and bracelets. But the Submariner dorns Rolex’s famous and more functional oyster bracelet. Also, unlike the HydroConquest or any Longines steel strap, you can adjust the Submariner’s bracelet to 5mm without using tools to remove links.

In-House Movements

The Longines HydroConquest uses a self-winding automatic caliber that beats at 25,200 vibrations per hour. It’s built in-house and has a 40-hour battery reserve. On the other hand, Rolex’s Submariner No Date also uses a self-winding, in-house movement, the 3235 caliber. However, it’s two steps ahead of the HydrConquest, with its magnetic field resistance and 42-hour battery reserve feature.

Whether these features are worth the $12,000 value difference and hassle is up to you. If you are searching for a functional diver’s watch, the HydroConquest is well-qualified. But a connoisseur, wealthy fanboy, or diver would prefer a Submariner to stack his collection, enjoy the symbol status, or the battery edge.

Does Longines Retain Value?

Like any luxury watch brand, you may wonder if buying a Longines watch would prove a good investment. Of course, many folks buy a Rolex to hedge against inflation, but you may see a different value in a Longines.

Rolex is hailed as the King of Resale Value for a good reason. It’s basic economics. Demand for Rolex watches outstrips supply straight from the factory, so authorized dealerships are always out of stock or carry older models. So instead, determined investors or buyers shop from trusted online dealers, preferably with a verifiable store, but pay more than the official retail price.

Exquisite Timepieces, for instance, sells authentic, pre-owned, and unworn Rolex watches online and in-store in Florida. The only way you’re getting a Rolex effortlessly is if you’re an ambassador or notable figure who received one as a gift. Conversely, Longines has an official online store, and many trusted stores and distributors worldwide.

Read that again. Yes, distributors too. So you see how Rolex is the king of resale? Ultimately, the resale value – for any watch – depends on the previous owner’s status, model, and condition. Typically, a Rolex could see a 16% to over 100% increase in two years, but only a mint-condition Longines will scratch this value.

Pros of Longines

Affordable
Prestigious Swiss watchmaker
Micro-adjustable leather straps
Can be bought without a “wait list” in stores
Oldest active trademark logo
COSC-certified

Cons of Longines

No micro-adjustment in stainless steel bracelets
ETA-made caliber

Pros Of Rolex

Most valuable swiss watch manufacturing brand
One of the best bracelets in the watch industry
King of resale value
Exclusivity
All watch parts are made in in-house
COSC certified chronographs

Cons of Rolex

Time-consuming after-sale service due to exclusivity
Overwhelming replicas and fakes

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Longines Considered A Luxury Watch?

Yes, Longines is a luxury brand established in the 1800s. Although they use quartz movements, they also build mechanical movements in-house at their St-Imier factory. However, Longines is an entry-level watch brand offering watches that cost around $1,500 to about $7.000.

Is Longines an Entry Level Watch?

Yes, Longines carries many entry-level watches that cost anywhere from $1,000 to $2,000. Their best-selling models, Flagship Heritage and Conquest, sell for around as low as $1,500 and $800, respectively. However, some of their more pricy models with precious metals and complications, like the 47.50MM Longines Weems Second Setting Watch, sell for over $20,000.

Longines Vs. Rolex: Final Thoughts

In the end, Rolex is a better luxury watchmaker than Longines. As the largest swiss brand, it produces all its parts exclusively in-house, sponsors all walks of life, signals success, and is the king of resale value.

If you don’t fancy the attention and time-consuming after-sale service, Longines will appeal to you. And prefer a prestigious yet affordable vintage or modern timepiece. But if I had to pick between a Rolex and Longines (with no budget), I’d grab a Rolex model without a second thought.

What do you think? Was the Longines vs. Rolex comparison a fair battle? If you found this comparison interesting, share it with other watch lovers and collector friends in your circle. Check out the Exquisite Timepiece store for authentic, new, and pre-owned Rolex and Longines masterpieces.

Rolex Vs. Patek Philippe Watches [IN-DEPTH Brand Comparison]

Posted on November 14, 2022September 8, 2023 by Kevin Ruiz

Both Rolex and Patek Philippe are incredibly iconic watchmakers known all throughout the world. These two companies are innovators and creators of their own original designs and have been leading the pack in the world of watchmaking.

Although these two are comparable, there are several big differences that make up each respective brand’s distinctive identity.

In this article, we will be looking at the similarities and differences between the two companies, and the pros and cons that come with each one. Though, there are more differences than similarities between the brands that we will discuss.

To begin this conversation, we have to talk about a sort of elephant in the room:

Why would you buy a Rolex over a Patek Philippe?

The main reason one might consider a Rolex watch over a Patek Philippe one comes down to a unique factor that this brand holds true over every single other watchmaker out there: popularity and recognition.

For many decades, Rolex has expertly marketed itself better than any other brand in the game and has become synonymous with concepts such as wealth, fashion, success, style, and more. The company has overall become the epitome of a “luxury wristwatch” to the general public. The golden standard.

Simply think, if you asked someone right now about Rolex, who is generally not in touch with knowledge regarding wristwatches, they will very likely be guaranteed to be familiar with the brand and those concepts stated earlier. It is a company that has remained in pop culture for decades similar to Apple, Nike, Coke, etc.

On the other hand, if you ask that same person about Patek Philippe, there is a slight chance that they might not know anything about their company; as Patek is targeted towards people of very high wealth, more so than Rolex, and their niche market are already aware of their existence, reputation, and offerings.

From this one very unique factor from Rolex, there come other unique advantages as well. One of these being that there will always be a very high demand for their watches from people all over the world. What this means for Rolex owners is that if you purchase one of their watches, you are almost certainly guaranteed to be able to resell that watch–likely for an even higher price than what you bought it for. This is one extremely appealing advantage to any sort of investor looking into the brand.

Pricing

Rolex vs Patek Philippe pricing is another big differentiating factor between the companies. As alluded to earlier, Rolex watches generally retail for much less than Patek Philippe’s offerings; and this could either be a good or bad thing depending on what kind of value you are seeking.

Patek Philippe watches of course hold their value and appreciate similarly to Rolex, but the number of people who are able to afford the high cost of a $100,000 Patek Philippe watch is diminished as opposed to the amount of people who won’t have to sell their car after buying a $10,000 Rolex. From this standpoint, it really does depend on an individual’s personal preferences and lifestyle.

To put this in perspective, at those prices listed earlier you could buy ten whole Rolex watches at the cost of that one Patek Philippe watch (if taxes didn’t exist).

To explore an example of this idea, let’s compare two of the most popular and iconic watches of each brand and ask a bit of a subjective question–Which is better, Rolex Submariner or Patek Philippe Aquanaut?

In this comparison, we find that the Submariner, as the name suggests, is designed for deep diving, having a high water resistance of 300m, and retails at around $10,000 – $40,000 usd. It is essentially built to withstand robust activities, has an outer timing bezel to time your dives or any other situation, and can be dressed up or down quite a bit.

The Patek Philippe Aquanaut on the other hand is also a type of “dive” watch withstanding 120m of water resistance, which is suitable for swimming but a bit riskier when diving,

Still, the Aquanaut is arguably more versatile than the Submariner. The reason for this is that it can be worn naturally with the highest end suit, but at the same time it can be rocked with jeans and a tee shirt. However this watch has a much wider range of price at approx. $30,000 – $130,000 usd.

So based on that, we once again find that this argument depends on an individual’s preferences and lifestyles. And speaking of lifestyles, that is another thing to consider when deciding between Rolex or Patek Philippe.

Types of Watches

Throughout the previous century, Rolex designed watches like the Submariner and their GMT to be robust and reliable in order to be used by personnel in the United States military. Doing so, they have created their catalog to consist of professional sport watches that have been tried and tested in true critical applications.

Additionally, their Explorer model was the primary watch provided by Rolex to be utilized by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in their expedition to become the first people to ever climb the top of the tallest mountain on Earth, Mount Everest.

Today, these models are still in production, updated every year, and are in very high demand. Models like these can be easily worn every day for any situation at 100m – 300m of water resistance with shock resistant movements.

On the other side of the spectrum, Patek Philippe’s highest water resistance timepieces come at 120m, which is not bad either, for the very popular Nautilus and Aquanaut. Extremely versatile and beautiful watches that are swimmable but are not able to be worn without precaution in deep diving or in heavy water sports as stated before.

These two watches are actually more so comparable to the Rolex Explorer in all of those regards.

Another very popular watch known from Patek is their Perpetual Calendar. This beautiful timepiece is a staple when it comes to dress watches with complex movements. On the dial, it features a day, date, month, even a leap year indicator, and most iconically, its moonphase.

It is important to note that the moon phase design was first introduced by Patek Philippe themselves, and now lives on in this iconic model of theirs.

This leads our conversation into the opposite standpoint previously taken:

Why would you buy a Patek Philippe over a Rolex?

Although Patek does not offer any sort of 200m – 300m water resistant dive watch, as they are not primarily a tool watch kind of company, what they instill instead are some the highest end works of art–and that is how one should look at Patek Philippe as a whole.

When you think of it this way, those high prices are much more justified.

Think of a painting from a renowned artist. Now, that is simply colors being placed in specific areas of a canvas to make a work of art. Let’s say that painting sells for $100,000 like a Patek Philippe might. As a whole, the artist will likely have spent very little to create that art, as the real value comes from their name, talent, and work.

So although you might not know exactly who created your Patek Philippe watch, there is no denying that these are clearly artworks inside and out made by masters at their craft, consisting of precious metals, and house extremely advanced mechanical technologies inside the watches themselves.

What’s more, these ‘art pieces’ can of course be used in real life applications of primarily telling time, as part of an outfit or ensemble, and can carry the stories of the people who have worn them in the past.

It is also important to emphasize the incredible complexity in the watches that Patek Philippe make. They strive to really push the boundaries in terms of what is possible to function inside a watch, using only mechanical features.

They can go from a simple date-only complication in a Nautilus, to their Grandmaster Chime, which boasts twenty (yes, twenty) separate complications. Patek truly have no limits, and I doubt that they will stop at that twenty.

While both companies create their own in-house caliber movements, Rolex mostly focus on perfecting their original designs in order to provide the most efficient and reliable movements possible, while Patek focus more on creating those complex designs with many complications added onto it.

Nevertheless, we cannot forget to mention this simple powerful fact: Patek Philippe was the company that started it all and created the very first wristwatch in the late 1800s. That could be all the information you need if you are looking for the winner between these two companies.

Design

In terms of exterior design, Rolex has created some of the most recognizable layouts that have become blueprints for all other watches designed today–which could either be a pro or a con depending on how you look at it.

Let’s start with the most obvious: the Submariner. The design of this watch with its geometric circles, rectangles, and triangle indexes, as well as the outer bezel’s timing layout, have been a standard in dive watch design for its form and functionality.

There is not much that can be improved in this and that is why it has rarely changed since its inception, and continues to thrive today. However, like stated before, this could be a con for some people as these designs are very often similarly seen in many other companies.

Because the design has somewhat reached a peak in simplicity and functionality, many others will struggle to come up with anything different, which leaves many of the same-looking watches all over the place.

However, that is what does make Rolex so sought after–they are THE original. But again, although some companies have managed to slightly break the mold, it is extremely difficult to change what is not already broken.

Now moving on to Patek Philippe, their outer designs are generally much more unique to their respective brand. If you look around, you do not find many similar watch layouts like the Nautilus, Aquanaut, Perpetual Calendar, and especially not the Grandmaster Chime (I’d actually be shocked to see that). That can be a huge draw for someone looking for something very iconic, luxurious, but unique all at once.

Furthermore, Rolex cases and bracelets are very similar from model to model, such as their famous Oyster designs; whereas Patek Philippe seemingly strive to create differentiating and original cases for each one of their timepieces. So let’s summarize some of these points as they are commonly asked:

Frequently Asked Questions

Why would you buy a Rolex over a Patek Philippe?

Rolex has the unique advantage of popularity and recognition throughout the world; which Patek Philippe does as well, but Rolex is generally more known and accessible. Their average rough estimate price for one of their watches is somewhere around $15,000 usd, which is much less expensive than that of Patek Philippe’s.

Furthermore, Rolex has its rich history in professional sport watches, which they continue to manufacture today, and that is what primarily makes up their catalog if that is what you are looking for. Lastly, the value of their watches become investable, as they often appreciate over time.

Why would you buy a Patek Philippe over a Rolex?

Now, Patek Philippe can be quite a bit more expensive than Rolex depending on the model and make, but they must be thought of more as functional works of art than watches, really.
Moreover, their catalog consists of very unique designs that are not easily duplicated by other companies like the ones from Rolex are. Like stated before, Patek Philippe are some of the most expensive timepieces out there, but they are also the most reputable and recognized from best of the best when it comes to that arena

Patek Philippe, Rolex, or Omega?

Another common debate being thrown around is that of Patek Philippe vs Rolex vs Omega. If we analyze these companies altogether, it is quickly evident that Patek Philippe is much more of a high end luxury and dressy brand, rather than a luxury sport watch one as both Rolex and Omega are.
Both Rolex and Omega have many more similarities than Patek Philippe in this regard, and they are real rivals when it comes to this.

Both have their own defining dive watches (Submariner vs Seamaster), ‘adventure’ type watches (Explorer vs Railmaster), chronographs (Daytona vs Speedmaster), and dress watches (Datejust vs Constellation)–just to name some of the more prominent categories. Both are also very highly marketed and recognized. Although Rolex definitely wins above all brands when it comes to that, Omega still holds its own against Rolex in that regard.

Nonetheless, their true differences lie in their price ranges, as Omega is a sort of entry-level in the world of luxury sport watches, ranging anywhere between approx. $3,000 – $15,000 usd. Whereas Rolex can range a bit higher in price as previously discussed. So this debate mostly depends on an individual’s preference in brand and their budget

Do Rolex or Patek Philippe keep more accurate time?

Interestingly, both companies likely average around the same time of accuracy. This is due to Patek’s incredibly complex movements with many different complications, and more complications mean more things that can vary an accuracy.

Meanwhile, Rolex have mostly focused on perfecting their movements with maybe one or two simple complications. After decades of testing, and thousands of people wearing their watches, Rolex have come a very long way in terms of functionality in their movements. And in doing so, they compete with Patek Philippe in the topic of accuracy.

Who was created first, Rolex or Patek Philippe?

Patek Philippe was founded in 1839, and Rolex in 1905. As previously discussed, Patek Philippe was also the company that first introduced the world to watches, but Rolex still has a lot of “firsts.”
For instance, they created the famous GMT movement for United States aviators in the 50s, which became one of their crowning (no pun intended) achievements. Patek, however, invented other features now commonly known such as the moon phase complication; which they still use in the Perpetual Calendar as one of their main lineups.

Conclusion

In summary, both Rolex and Patek Philippe are giants in the watchmaking industry. They pioneered many of the designs we see today, but they are not all that similar to one another overall. Rolex built their reputation based on creating professional sport watches to be tested in real life situations, and at the same time marketed those watches towards the average citizen.

Whereas, Patek Philippe built their own brand based on perfecting the concept of a mechanical wristwatch, and pushing the boundaries in terms of materials, movements, complications, and designs overall.

Rolex is more affordable than Patek Philippe, but both are creators with distinct identities, rich histories, and iconic catalogs to choose from. So as stated before, choosing between these two comes down to an individual’s personal preferences, how they live their life, their budget, and the kind of value they seek. Or just get both, why not?