Category: Rolex

The Rolex Submariner was first introduced in 1953 as a dive watch designed specifically for professional use. Quite possibly the most recognizable timepiece in the world, the underwater tool watch has preserved its quintessence for decades, making it the most sought-after luxury watch on earth. 

Hyperbolic as this may sound, it’s no exaggeration. Its appeal stretches over cultural groups, continents, gender, personality types… you name it! Rolex knows better than any other watch brand how to preserve the ethos of its flagship products.

As a result, the Submariner has retained its classic design from the 1950s while displaying a mastery of mechanics and aesthetics over the years. All legends have a story, and in true Exquisite Timepieces fashion, we shall give this icon the attention it deserves. Today, we take a look at the different Rolex Submariner sizes throughout the years.

About The Rolex Submariner

The Submariner was Rolex’s first attempt to turn a functional timepiece into an item of luxury (and how well it worked!). Even though it started as a simple and relatively affordable tool watch, it quickly took its place in the elite circle of timepieces that influence generations of time-telling devices.

Designed for diving and outdoor activities, the Rolex Submariner is part of Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual line, which include sport watches that are durable, highly accurate, and resistant to water and corrosion.

Here are some of its key features:

Waterproof: The Submariner is designed to be water-resistant up to 300 meters (1000 feet), making it suitable for diving and other water-related activities. Note, however, that the earlier models were water resistant to a depth of 100 and 200 meters, as we’ll see later on.

Rotating Bezel: All Submariners feature a rotating bezel that allows divers to read the elapsed time from the beginning of any activity.

Oyster Case: The watch’s case is made of Oyster Steel, a highly durable and corrosion-resistant material developed by Rolex.

Date Window: Most contemporary Submariner models include a date window that magnifies the date display for easy reading.

Luminescent Markers: All Submariners feature luminescent markers on the hour markers and hands for legibility in low-light conditions.

Automatic Movement: The Submariner is powered by Rolex’s automatic movement, which is known for its precision and reliability.

Bracelet: The watch is typically paired with a stainless steel Oyster bracelet, which is comfortable and secure.

Triplock system waterproof crown: The Submariner’s crown features a triple gasket system, which helps prevent damage to the watch, and ensures its water resistance.

History of the Rolex Submariner

The Rolex Submariner’s history is one of the most frequently rehearsed tales among watch enthusiasts, for good reasons. It was in 1953 that the Submariner was born, and its legend is an outstanding narrative of how a watch brand defied the odds to achieve unprecedented success.

At the time of its production, Rolex had already gained popularity and was revered as the superlative watch manufacturer with finely crafted timepieces. The brand had launched many groundbreaking inventions, such as the first waterproof and dust-proof watch in 1926 (The Rolex Oyster), the first self-winding movement in 1931, and the first automatic watch to feature a self-changing date indication (The Rolex Datejust) in 1945.

Before the release of the Submariner, Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms – launched several months prior – was the first watch to tell time accurately at depths up to 91.45 meters. Then in 1954, at the Basel Watch Fair, the Submariner made its first public appearance, pushing that virtuosity further with a record-breaking feat of highly accurate timekeeping up to depths of 100 meters (330 feet).

The first iteration is believed to be the ref. 6204 (though there are still some debates on this). The watch had a black, gilt-finish dial and a rotating bezel marked for 60 minutes. It also featured straight hands styled like a pencil and luminous baton and dot indices offering superior legibility in the ocean’s depths.

Ref. 6205 followed in 1954 and was nearly identical to Ref. 6204 but had a thicker case and a larger crown. After these, a hotly sought iteration known as “King Sub” was launched and featured a large 8mm crown with a depth rating of 200 meters. The ref. 6538, which is the most revered of all – thanks to its association with the iconic Bond franchise – was produced in the latter part of the 1950s. The Ref. 5508 replaced the 6538 and was the first Submariner to house the Cal. 1530.

Over the next decades, production continued steadily and was mainly inspired by technical advancements such as enhanced water-resistant ratings and upgraded movements. Despite these changes, the Submariner has remained true to its original design. Today, the Submariner boasts a water-resistant rating of 300 meters, a patented high-tech Cerachrom bezel, a Glidelock bracelet, and a date function.

Rolex Submariner Sizes

The Rolex Submariner has been the go-to watch for divers since 1953. Since its creation, Rolex has revamped the Sub line with a handful of significant improvements, especially regarding the size, waterproofness, robustness, and functionality.

Below we take a look at the different Submariner sizes. We will not dive into the minutiae of each size that the Sub line has featured or every reference within the selected dimensions. But, we’ll take a look at the highlights of the primary Sub sizes so that you can understand the model’s evolution.

Rolex Submariner 37mm

Between 1953 and 1959, the Submariner came in a stainless steel case that measured 37mm across. It is important to note that the first few years of its existence were a bit turbulent, so Rolex seemed to be altering the design endlessly. Eight known models were launched within this short span, including Ref. 6204, 6205, 6200, 6536, 6536/1 6538, 5508, and 5510.

The stainless steel Oyster case featured a screw-down case back, often called “bubble back” because of its rounded shape and the movement it housed. 

Ref. 6204 was the first official Sub with the words “Submariner” appearing on the dial and the following iteration (Ref. 6205) displayed many of its hallmarks. Ref. 6205 was water resistant to a depth of 100 meters and used the same movement as Ref. 6204 (the Cal. A260). However, it featured an upsized crown (from 5.3mm to about 6mm) and did not have the Submariner logo on its dial. 

The following year the Marque released a small number of ref. 6200 Submariners that came in two distinct series. The design was pretty much the same as its predecessors; however, a few tweaks and upgrades are worth mentioning. First off, it had a thicker case with a big 8mm “brevet” crown that ensured an increased water-resistance rating of 200 meters. The dial also had a 3-6-9 Arabic numeral configuration (Explorer-style). 

Rolex continued evolving the Submariner at a rapid pace so that between 1956 and 1958, the line was significantly revised again, producing the 6536 (downsized crown: 6mm) and 6538 (oversized crown: 8mm) models. The Ref. 6536/1 had a thinner, chronometer-certified movement (the cal. 1030), the now-familiar Mercedes hands, and the “red triangle” marker on its bezel.

The Ref. 6538 had multiple versions and dial variations classified as “4-line” (Chronometer-Certified) and “2-line” (Non-Chronometer-Certified). It is also known as the “Bond” Sub because it is the reference that Sean Connery wore in Dr. No, the very first James Bond film. Again, in 1958, Ref. 5510 and Ref. 5508 were released, and they were among the last known references that came with a 37mm case. 

Ref. 5510 was virtually identical to Ref. 6538 with 200 meters of water resistance, a red triangle, and a big crown. The Ref. 5508 on the other hand was similar to the Ref. 6536/1 with a smaller crown, thinner case, and water resistance rating of only 100 meters. Both models featured the updated Caliber 1530 movement. The Ref. 5508 continued running till about 1962 and is the last Submariner ever produced without crown guards.

Rolex Submariner 40mm

The 40 mm generation of the Submariner begins with the Ref. 5512 released in 1959. From this point on the Submariner attained consistency and looked more like the contemporary Sub we know today. Crown guards were introduced to keep the winding crown from getting loose, in addition to the now standard Mercedes handset.

The Ref. 5512, along with its non-COSC certified sibling, the ref. 5513, represented an amalgamation of all the different elements that worked superbly for the previous Submariners. Both models were nearly identical with 40mm wide cases, 7mm crowns, 200 meters depth rating, beveled lugs, crown guards, Mercedes hands, and a demarcated dive bezel.

However, Ref. 5512 had the text “Superlative Chronometer / Officially Certified” above 6 o’clock, while the 5513 did not. Both models were extremely long-serving; Ref. 5512 was in production from 1959 to 1980, while ref. 5513 ran from 1962 all the way up to 1989. Of course, during this time, there were a lot of tweaks and design changes to the dials of both references leading to a number of variants.

A variant of the Ref. 5513 even features an ‘Explorer’ dial, much like the Ref. 6200. It is the last Submariner with Arabic numerals at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, making it a highly coveted vintage timepiece. The modern Submariner gradually began to emerge as production of the Ref. 5513 drew to a close. Tritium had already replaced radium luminescence, and the dials were now glossy black with white gold accents.

Another 40 mm model is the Ref. 1680 (1967-1979), the first Submariner to feature a date window without cyclops. It is one of the best-known vintage Rolex timepieces with several iterations. There is a version with the word “Submariner” printed in red (dubbed the Red Sub), a “white version” (which had all the texts on the dial in white), and even a special interpretation of the same Ref. 1680 designed for the Compagnie de Maritime Expertise (COMEX), which was never sold directly to the public.

Other references with 40 mm cases were merely ‘transitional’ but featured notable upgrades. For instance, the 16800 (1979-1988) was the first Sub to be equipped with a sapphire crystal (an upgrade from plexiglass) and a unidirectional bezel.

Other 166XX references with different tweaks and engine upgrades came into the market and stayed in production for roughly two decades. Luminova usurped tritium, and the drilled lug holes on the cases became a thing of the past. 

Production of 40mm Sub cases drew to a close with Ref. 14060 (non-date model with sapphire crystal and a Triplock crown) that came alongside Ref. 14060M (with the upgraded caliber 3130). Finally, the Ref. 114060 and 116610 (Super case models) were presented in slightly square cases (due to the large, robust lugs) with thicker crown guards than the previous generations.

Rolex Submariner 41mm

2020 saw the retirement of Ref. 114060 and the introduction of Ref. 124060 and Ref. 126610. The Submariner collection was updated all at once for the first time in history. The ‘big’ watch craze was gaining momentum worldwide, and Rolex acted in answer to the trending demand by increasing the case size.

The bulky and masculine “Super Case” is totally gone in this iteration, and the 41 mm cases now feature thinner lugs with elegantly sweeping silhouettes and slimmer crown guards. The case is still around 12.5mm high, but the slim profile of the lugs makes the 1mm diameter increase barely noticeable.

The Oyster Steel (904L stainless steel) case is finely executed with polished sides and brushed surfaces that give it a radiant gleam. The case back remains solid screwed steel, while the Triplock crown ensures a water-resistant rating of 300m or 1,000ft. 

The ref. 124060 is the basic “no date model” and is powered by the Cal. 3230 with 70 hours of power reserve. The Ref. 12661X, on the other hand, is the date model powered by the Cal. 3235 and is available in up to seven different iterations.

The Ref.126610LN has a monochromatic appearance and black bezel, while the 126610LV (nicknamed the “Kermit” as in the frog) features a green bezel. Both movements provide an increased power reserve of 70 hours (from 48 hours) and are Chronometer-Certified with a precision of 2/+2 seconds per day.

Conclusion

The Submariner is the one watch collection that has remained true to its original design, making it an all-time favorite. Heck, the archetypical dive watch would still be instantly recognizable by Hans Wilsdorf if he came back today.

It is one of the greatest of all and will forever remain a popular choice among divers, collectors, and watch enthusiasts alike. Due to its popularity, the Sub is a target for counterfeiters, so if you plan to add one to your collection, be cautious and ensure you are buying it from a reputable source.

No, ’Bluesy’ isn’t the street name of a character on the Sopranos. Instead, Bluesy is the nickname used for any Submariner references made by Rolex with a blue dial, blue bezel, and a two-tone Oystersteel case/strap. It’s not an official term coined by Rolex, but it has been around for almost as long as the watch has and is, therefore, a firm fixture in collector vocabulary. 

The Bluesy nickname is straightforward and less cliché than some others given to Rolex variations (I’m looking at you, Starbucks, and Batman). It’s not only a catchy moniker but one which accurately describes the main visual characteristics of the watch.

About The Rolex Bluesy

Although we don’t like to talk about it much anymore, one can’t ignore the lasting influence of the 1980s. To be more specific, one can’t help but notice that two-tone Rolexes came into the spotlight during the 80s. Wall Street-influenced style did a number on us in that department.

However, despite the questionable fashion choices of the era, it was a wild time to be alive, and the Bluesy reflects that in all of its multicolored splendor. It could be due to this ‘cultural capture’ that blue Submariners have been popular among collectors for decades.

There are 4 distinct versions of the Bluesy, which we’ll look at in more detail in a minute. Among the most iconic of these is the 116613LB, an era-defining watch that’s hard to fault. 

In 2020, Rolex released the successor to this classic, which features cutting-edge craftsmanship and innovations that some believe surpass the original. Is it possible for Rolex to further refine such a beloved watch? Let’s take a closer look at the Bluesy line to find out where the differences lie.

So Many Bluesy Models, So Little Time

Here’s a breakdown of the Bluesy models released by the Swiss firm since the early ‘80s, each of which is slightly different from the rest, as you’d expect.

1. 16803 (1983-1988)

The very first of its line, and the watch that inspired the nickname that now defines this family of Submariners, the 16803, was in production for just over 5 years and met much fanfare during the 1980s. Arguably the largest difference between this and other models, other than the movement, is the size and flatness of the case.

While I quite like this build, it doesn’t quite have the attitude of other versions. The 1680 Submariners are considered transitional models as they remained in production for a relatively short period but inspired several design improvements.

This generation of Submariner watches was the first to feature sapphire crystals, improved the water resistance rating to 300 meters, and used caliber 3035 movements. The 16803 has a 40mm Oyster case made of steel with a yellow gold winding crown and a yellow gold unidirectional rotating bezel fitted with an anodized aluminum bezel insert.

The dial features many yellow-gold details, including lume-filled index surrounds and Mercedes-style hands. Some early models of the 16803 were equipped with a “nipple dial,” which had raised gold hour markers like those on the all-gold version of the ref. 1680. Like most Rolesor Rolex watches, the ref. 16803 Submariner’s Oyster bracelet includes yellow gold center links flanked by stainless steel outer links.

2. 16613 (1989-2010)

The 16613 incorporated white-filled indices on the dial and began what would herald in Rolex’s march towards a more contoured case, which contracts with the slightly ‘flat’ feel of the 16803. Furthermore, the blue of this model is decidedly more vivid than the previous model’s, which makes the model stand out.

While this lends the watch a slightly more luxurious feel, it certainly doesn’t detract from its utilitarian build. This newer model features a two-tone 40mm Oyster case, an aluminum bezel, and a two-tone Oyster bracelet.

However, the Submariner 16613 is powered by the caliber 3135 automatic movement, a significant difference from the previous model. Although the 16613 was in production for about 20 years, it underwent many enhancements and updates throughout its run.

For instance, Rolex replaced tritium with Luminova as the luminescent material in the late 1990s, introduced solid end-link bracelets in 2000, and phased out lug holes a few years later. In the early 2000s, Rolex began engraving the watches’ serial numbers and “ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX” on the rehaut and laser etching a micro crown on the crystal to deter counterfeiting.

As a result, a mid-2000s ref. 16613 will look and feel distinct from a late 1980s Submariner ref. 16613, despite being the same model.

3. 116613LB (2009-2020)

Although this may be the most popular Bluesy model, given the immense growth in the luxury watch market between 2010 and 2020, the 116613LB isn’t the most recent iteration of this famous blue beast. More ‘active’ in its finishing than the preceding model, the 116613LB underwent significant changes compared to its predecessor. 

Although the official case measurement remains the same, the “Super Case” silhouette is beefier and more robust, thanks to the larger crown guards and fatter lugs. The two-tone bracelet is somewhat improved, with solid 18k yellow gold center links and a completely redesigned durable clasp, which certainly adds to the watch’s heft.

This version features a larger bezel insert made of Rolex’s patented ceramic alloy, Cerachrom, offering excellent resistance to scratching and fading. The dial has also been given the supersize treatment, with larger lume plots and broader Mercedes-style hands.

Earlier versions of the Bluesy ref. 116613 featured the flat blue dial to match the blue shade of the Cerachrom bezel. However, Rolex revived the popular sunburst blue dial in 2013, and the flat one was phased out.

The Submariner ref. 116613 continues to run on the Caliber 3135, which underwent some key improvements over the years, such as achieving an accuracy rating of -2/+2 seconds per day, twice the requirement set out by COSC chronometer standards in 2015.

It’s worth noting that early iterations of this model were available with diamond hour markers, which is not the case with the sunburst blue dial version.

4. 126613LB (2020-)

While very similar to the 116613LB, Rolex’s newest Bluesy has two distinctly effective differences from all of its ancestors; a 41mm case and white text. By switching from the gold text they had used for decades to the white text they employ now, Rolex made the legibility of this watch (and other Sub models) easier by orders of magnitude. 

The slightly larger case and more refined lugs return to the classic proportions of earlier Submariners. This reference also boasts an updated automatic movement, the Caliber 3235, featuring a Chronergy escapement and patents and providing an improved power reserve of about 70 hours.

The yellow gold and steel cases and bracelets, unidirectional rotating Cerachrom bezels marked to 60 minutes, and a date window at 3 o’clock with a magnified Cyclops lens remain consistent with earlier versions.

Like its predecessors, the 126613 can withstand water pressure up to 1,000 feet (300 meters). Its hour markers and Mercedes-style hands are generously coated with Chromalight lume, optimizing legibility in low-light conditions.

Bluesy Reborn – The Submariner ref. 126613LB

Objectively, the 126613LB doesn’t offer any functional advantage over its all-steel counterparts. However, I would be a fool to dispute the simple fact that in the 21st century, most wristwatches, particularly those from Rolex, primarily serve luxury purposes. 

The two-tone Submariner with the blue dial embraces this luxury mission aptly by conveying warmth and prestige more effectively than the cold, clinical stainless-steel divers. At 41 millimeters, this generation of Subs remains just as sturdy as its ancestors.

The ceramic bezel, in a gorgeous marine blue with embedded dive markings in an 18-karat gold bezel, is a thing of beauty. Unlike other less boisterous models, the blue and gold combination has proven staying power. Even in the 1970s, dealers were known to conjure up custom two-tone Submariners for customers via a more liberal Rolex parts department.

From there, the two-tone Sub evolved into a staple, particularly in blue, befitting its nautical heritage. One small but significant change that aligns the new Submariner with modern times is the switch to white text on the dial.

It adds a fresh and contemporary feel while boldly contrasting the dark sunburst blue dial background and matching the bright Chromalite on the hands and indexes. Although it may feel indulgent, I prefer to think of it as a projection of confidence. 

The band of gold running down the center of the links is unmistakable from across the room, while the solid gold crown confirms the watch’s triple-protected impenetrability and continues that vault-like feel throughout the timepiece.

It’s a totem for your sense of self-worth, and if you’re wearing one of these, you’re bound to feel like a million dollars. Let’s have a closer look at the specific features of the Bluesy, seeing as we’re geeking out on the model already. Here’s a brief rundown of the main focal points of the watch;

Case

To use the word ‘impressive’ alone to describe Bluesy’s case may be an understatement. After all, we should bear in mind that the Submariner case redefined the modern dive watch aesthetic almost singlehandedly. That’s more than impressive.

It’s awe-inspiring. Boasting a 41mm diameter and 12.7mm thickness, this luxury diver’s watch fits snugly on almost any wrist. With a lug-to-lug measurement of 48.1mm and a 21mm lug width, it is similar in size to other Submariner models and a breeze to wear.

Crafted primarily from Oystersteel, the Rolex Bluesy is built to last. This patented 904L stainless steel blend (aka Oystersteel) is ultra-tough and resistant to scratches, impacts, and corrosion. Its finely polished case and satin-finished lug hoods give it a subtly sophisticated look despite its sporty origins.

Fashioned partly from luxurious yellow gold, the two-tone gold and silver exterior also features a unidirectional rotating bezel and screw-down crown. The bezel’s blue ceramic insert, marked with a matching gold elapsed time scale, has a bottle cap-like groove that provides a better grip for divers, even when wearing gloves. 

At the noon position, a luminous pip glows bright in the dark, ensuring improved visibility in low-light conditions. The bezel’s 120 clicks and lack of back play make tracking time underwater a breeze.

The yellow gold crown delicately emblazoned with Rolex’s iconic crown emblem, is protected by Oystersteel crown guards that allow for easy grasping and turning. Additionally, the watch’s Triplock waterproofness system and solid Oystersteel screw-down caseback offer impressive water resistance up to 300m (1000ft).

Dial

The Bluesy’s dial is arguably the main attraction of the watch. It is, after all, the reason behind this Submariner’s nickname. A striking royal blue metallic sunburst finish perfectly complements its blue bezel, and the iconic Submariner design is apparent in its geometric indices and bold hands, all encased in gold. 

Furthermore, Bluesy’s hands and indices are equipped with Chromalight, a cutting-edge technology that enhances clarity and visibility in any lighting condition, even in deep, dark, scary waters. The face features a date display that replaces the 3 o’clock marker.

Printed in white for maximum contrast and legibility, the brand’s signature and the Submariner title, depth rating, and Superlative Chronometer certification adorn the dial at 12 and 6, respectively.

Protecting the stunning dial of the Rolex Bluesy is a layer of scratch-resistant sapphire glass, known for its remarkable durability and sleek appearance. With a mineral hardness rating of “9” on the Mohs scale, this crystal is almost impervious to scratches and can only be damaged by diamonds. 

To minimize reflections, Rolex has added anti-reflective coatings to Bluesy’s sapphire crystal, making it easier to view from different angles. Additionally, a convenient cyclops lens, a feature that is now synonymous with Rolex date variations, magnifies the date display for easy reading.

Movement

The Rolex Calibre 3235, a step up from the 3135, is now a household name in the watch industry and a favorite among WOSTEP-certified watchmakers. This chronometer movement has earned its reputation, boasting an impressive accuracy of -2/+2 seconds per day, certified by COSC.

With an approximate power reserve of 70 hours, the 3235 provides plenty of power to keep itself ticking on time. After almost three decades as the flagship movement of Rolex, the Calibre 3135 began to be phased out around 2015 in favor of this modified version.

Thus, 126613LBs purchased before then will contain a 3135, being the last models to feature this legendary movement. However, that doesn’t mean other models with the 3135 weren’t still being shipped to ADs during the transition period.

Bracelet

The Rolex Bluesy flaunts a yellow Rolesor bracelet incorporating Oystersteel outer and yellow gold center links. This bracelet exudes a remarkable level of sophistication while providing wearers with the utmost comfort and durability. The Rolex Glidelock system and Oysterlock folding safety clasp keep the bracelet fastened and secure on your wrist, regardless of whether you’re exploring the deep blue seas or running errands in the city.

Should You Buy A Rolex Bluesy?

If you’re considering purchasing one of these icons, there are a few factors to take into consideration before heading to the watch store. 

Firstly, the cost of this piece is far greater than its price, particularly if you’re looking for a daily wearer or just a single luxury watch to add to an otherwise modest collection. You have to acknowledge that this isn’t a humble watch, nor should we expect it to be. 

The Bluesy is decidedly thematic in its design, representing a kind of nautical luxury that demands attention while refusing humility in all forms. The Bluesy speaks for the boldest aspects of one’s character and, thus, should be treated accordingly. 

This isn’t a watch that you wear with joggers while picking up a coffee order down the road. This is a watch that belongs under the cuff of a good suit or on the wrist of an arm that’s caressing the railing of a cruising Sunseeker.

Understand that the true cost of the Bluesy means you’re paying the price for something that will likely alter your lifestyle. If you’re not ok with that, you should look for a timepiece that’s a bit less adventurous in its design.

Secondly, the price is obviously also a factor to consider – the Bluesy ref. 16613, for example, will set you back a clean $15,900. That’s not a figure to be scoffed at, and thus, one has to be very sure that they’re willing and able to throw down that kind of cash for a single ticker.

If you ask me, I’d say that the decision of whether to go with a Bluesy or not essentially comes down to two things, assuming you have the money to spend – taste and attitude. It goes without saying that if you hate the color blue or are not a fan of the two-tone look, which many aren’t, then this watch ain’t for you.

 Alternatively, if you’re into the look but lack the confidence that this watch demands of its owner, I would advise purchasing something a bit more humble. If, however, you’re the master of your reality – an engaged and engaging individual with a commanding character – then there are few watches that you deserve to give yourself more than the Bluesy.

Alternatives To The Rolex Bluesy

This is undoubtedly a covetable timepiece, but its price tag (and the state of the Rolex after-market) can make it an unattainable dream for many. Fear not, for there are several stylish and reliable alternatives to the Bluesy that won’t break the bank. While Rolex may be the ultimate benchmark, other high-performing diver’s watches are available at more affordable prices.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M (ref. 210.20.42.20.03.001)

Omega makes perhaps the strongest contender when it comes to timepieces that can give the iconic Submariner a run for its money. The Seamaster Diver 300m Co-Axial Master Chronometer is a sturdy yet luxurious dive watch that, much like the Sub, is a definite fixture in the watch world. 

Crafted from a stainless steel and gold blend, it boasts a 42mm case, topped with a gold unidirectional rotating bezel featuring a blue scratch-resistant ceramic insert with the Ceragold dive scale.

The watch is powered by the impressive Omega Calibre 8800, a self-winding movement with a co-axial escapement and a 55-hour power reserve. It’s a bit sharper in its outward appearance than the Bluesy, but indeed no less impressive.

Longines Hydroconquest (ref. L3.781.3.96.7)

The HydroConquest Automatic is perfect for those who love the general look of the Bluesy and want a reliable and respected mid-range timepiece. It features a solid blue ceramic bezel, luminous hour markers, and large Arabic numerals at 6, 9, and 12. 

The watch is powered by a Longines caliber L888 movement, which contains 21 jewels, beats at 25,200 vph, and has a 72-hour power reserve. These are all impressive numbers for a relatively modest $2025 watch. Even more surprising is the water-resistant rating of up to 300m/1000ft, which is on par with Rolex’s own Submariners, making the watch a practical competitor as well as a visual one.

Bulova Marine Star (ref. 98B334)

Part of Bulova’s Marine Star Collection, the 98B334 reference is an entry-level diver for those who are after something with a bit of attitude that won’t break the bank. With a sharp, cool two-tone case and bracelet and a sleek blue dial with a handy date window at three o’clock, the Marine Star gives off a decidedly sporty vibe. 

To make matters more interesting, an open-heart dial and seconds sub-dial grant this piece an air of complexity that punches above its price bracket. Plus, it’s got a durable flat mineral crystal, reliable quartz movement, and can handle water depths up to 100 meters. At 43mm in diameter, it’s a bit bigger than the Bluesy, but for only $360, what’s an extra 2 millimeters?

Conclusion

The Rolex Bluesy Submariner Date isn’t only an iconic watch for the sake of watch culture – it’s a true masterpiece that exudes exceptional style and incomparable reliability. Its release heralded an entirely new era of horological style. 

With its trend-setting design and timeless charm, it created a new visual standard for the luxury diver, being virtually indestructible while still able to turn heads at cocktail parties and company dinners. 

There’s nothing to fault here – a timepiece this great only comes around once every few decades, so thank your lucky stars if you were there to witness its release, and I’ll thank mine that I’m here to appreciate its indelible impact.

What connects Sir Winston Churchill, Steve McQueen, Martin Luther King Jr., Elvis Presley, John F. Kennedy, and Paul Newman? Besides all being famed for their respective accomplishments in their fields, they all purportedly owned Rolex watches. 

We all know celebrities can be paid to endorse and wear a particular brand, but what drives so many of the world’s icons to choose a brand like Rolex? They don’t need to project status; everyone already knows of their success. What they likely recognized in Rolex is the brand’s unparalleled engineering quality, abiding beauty, and remarkable ability to hold their value. 

Rolex reminds me of Mercedes in many ways, especially the way Mercedes built their cars up through the 1980s. During those eras, their automobiles were handcrafted and overbuilt. In fact, some of their models were known to surpass 1,000,000 miles! It was common to hear people compare the closing of a Mercedes door to that of a bank vault door. 

I remember the first time I heard a Rolex bracelet clasp open and close; it gave me the same feeling. My father bought several Mercedes cars in the 70s and 80s, and he sold all of them for a profit because the supply in the US was limited, with long waiting lists for a new Mercedes, something Rolex is also known for.

GUIDE TO ROLEX

Rolex is a Swiss luxury watch manufacturer known for its high-quality, precision timepieces. The company was founded in 1905 and has since become one of the most recognizable and respected names in the watch industry. 

The brand offers a wide range of watches for men and women, including the iconic Submariner and the elegant Day-Date. Many Rolex watches are also considered to be valuable collectibles.

How Much Does a Rolex Cost?

The cost of a Rolex watch can vary widely depending on the specific model, materials used, and the current market conditions, from several thousand dollars to over $100,000. For example, the MSRP of a Rolex Datejust 36mm in stainless steel is around $7,400 (Source: Rolex.com), while the MSRP of a Rolex Datejust 31mm in 18k yellow gold is around $30,100 (Source: Rolex.com).

Why Are Rolex Watches So Expensive?

Rolex watches are some of the most expensive watches in the world for several reasons:

1.     Quality: Rolex watches are known for their exceptional quality and attention to detail. Every part of a Rolex watch is made to the highest standards and is rigorously tested to ensure that it meets the brand’s exacting standards.

2.     Materials: Rolex watches are made with the finest materials available, such as 18k gold, Oystersteel, and precious gems. These materials are not only durable and long-lasting but also add to the overall value of the watch.

3.     Craftsmanship: Rolex watches are handmade by skilled craftsmen and women who’ve been trained to the highest standards. Each watch is carefully assembled and inspected to ensure it meets the brand’s exacting standards.

4.     Brand reputation: Rolex has a long history of creating luxury watches synonymous with quality, durability, and precision. Their reputation for excellence and prestige has made them one of the most sought-after brands in the world.

5.     Limited production: Rolex watches are produced in limited quantities, making them exclusive and hard to find, which in turn drives up the price.
6.     Resale value: Rolex watches retain their value well over time and can even appreciate in value. This is especially true of stainless steel sports models.

Are Rolex Timepieces a Worthy Investment?

Many consider Rolex watches a good investment due to their reputation for quality and durability, as well as their ability to hold their value over time. Many people buy Rolex watches as an investment, with the expectation that they will appreciate over time. 

The value of a Rolex watch can fluctuate depending on various factors, such as the state of the market, supply and demand, and the condition of the timepiece. In recent years, long waiting lists for new Rolex models have driven up the cost of the pre-owned market. 

The Best Rolex Watches Under $10000

1. ROLEX SUBMARINER 41MM (ref. 124060)

Perched atop our list is the Submariner. The latest iteration marks more than 70 years of evolution of this model. First distinguishing itself with the military and among professional divers and later adorning the wrists of some of the biggest stars in Hollywood. Nothing exudes cool like the Submariner. 

Despite the increase in case size of the current model, it offers a return to a more streamlined case profile and less chunky appearance, in contrast to the outgoing model. The case and bracelet are made of 904L steel, which is highly resistant to corrosion and doesn’t require the watch to be rinsed after exposure to saltwater. 

“Under the hood” is the highly celebrated new in-house 3230 movement, boasting a rated accuracy within -2/+2 seconds per day after casing. Further, the timepiece offers improved protection against shock and magnetism. The hands and hour markers are 18c white gold to protect against corrosion. 

This model doesn’t include a date feature, and many purists prefer the simplicity and legibility of this dial as a true dive watch. Those seeking the date feature might consider the 126610LN model, although it might be more difficult to find under $10000. 

Specs & Features:

• Case size: 40mm
• Case material: Stainless steel
• Dial color: Black
• Movement: Automatic (Caliber 3230)
• Power reserve: 70 hours
• Water resistance: 300 meters/ 1000 feet
• Bracelet/strap: Oyster steel bracelet with Glidelock extension system
• Features: Date display, unidirectional rotatable bezel, luminescent hour markers, COSC-certified chronometer.

Price $9,100 (Source: Rolex.com)

2. ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL 41MM (ref. 124300)

This collection represents Rolex’s first-ever sports model from 1933. The new model is slightly larger to accommodate modern design expectations while still being slim enough to easily slide under a dress shirt. 

This allows the timepiece to function as a sport and dress watch. The silver sunburst dial version, with its yellow gold indicators and hands, luster, and shimmer, changes the look of the face in different lights. The black dial, with silver hour markers and hands, gives it a clean look, with the iconic Rolex crown logo at 12 o’clock. These are just two of the various dial options for this watch. 

The watch is also built to last, with a construction that is both durable and precise. The case is made of 904L steel, which is known for its resistance to corrosion and scratches. The bracelet is also made of the same steel and features a folding Oysterlock safety clasp that provides added security.

Specs & Features:

• Case size: 41mm
• Case material: Stainless steel
• Dial colors: Silver, bright black, bright blue & green 
• Movement: Automatic (Caliber 3230)
• Power reserve: 70 hours
• Water resistance: 100 meters/ 330 feet
• Bracelet/strap: Oyster steel bracelet
• Features: Date display, central seconds hand, stop-seconds for precise time setting

Price: $6,400 (Source: Rolex.com)

3. ROLEX DATEJUST 41MM (ref. 126300)

The Datejust 41mm is a modern update to the classic Datejust line of watches. This is a broad, flat watch made for medium to larger wrists. It features a 41mm stainless steel case and is powered by the Rolex Caliber 3235 self-winding mechanical movement. 

The watch features a date display at the 3 o’clock position with a Cyclops lens for easy reading, and the dial is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.

It comes with an Oyster bracelet with a folding Oysterclasp and Easylink comfort extension link that allows the wearer to adjust the bracelet length by up to 5mm without using any tools. The 126300 is a versatile and elegant watch, perfect for formal and casual occasions. It is a timeless watch that embodies the essence of Rolex.

Specs & Features:

• Case size: 41mm
• Case Material: Stainless steel
• Dial colors: Bright black, slate, slate with green roman numerals, bright blue,   bright blue/fluted motif, Azzurro blue, mint green, mint green fluted motif, silver &  white with roman numerals.  
• Movement: Automatic (Caliber 3235)
• Power reserve: 70 hours
• Water resistance: 100 meters/ 330 feet
• Bracelet/strap: Oyster steel bracelet with folding Oysterclasp and Easylink comfort extension link
• Features: Date display at 3 o’clock with Cyclops lens, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, unidirectional rotatable bezel, luminescent hour markers, COSC-certified chronometer.

Price: $8,050

4. ROLEX EXPLORER 36MM (ref. 124270)

“Bond, James Bond”. In the books and many of the movies, the James Bond character wears a Rolex, typically a Submariner. However, the writer behind the Bond books, Ian Fleming, who was a real-life spy for the British during WWII, was known to wear the Rolex Explorer 36mm. 

The Explorer is a no-nonsense sports watch. The dial is uncomplicated, and that’s just the way I like it. If you set this version next to older Explorers, it might be difficult to spot the differences. Rolex hit the sweet spot with this watch long ago, and they’ve been refining perfection ever since. 

This version does have larger hour markers that jump off the dial more than previous versions. The bracelet is new and far more substantial. The buckle also gets the full Rolex treatment with the EasyLink adjustment system, which is a welcome upgrade. The most significant upgrade to this model is the new 3230 in-house movement, which we’ve already discussed above.  

Specs & features:

• Case size: 36mm
• Case material: Stainless steel
• Dial colors: Black
• Movement: Automatic (Caliber 3132)
• Power reserve: Approximately 48 hours
• Water resistance: 100 meters/ 330 feet
• Bracelet/strap: Stainless steel Oyster bracelet with folding clasp
• Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date

Price: $7,250

5. ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL 36MM (ref. 12600)

For those that want a watch for the office and outdoor activities, comes the Oyster Perpetual 36mm. The specs and features of this watch are, of course, mostly identical to the 41mm model detailed above. What stands out for the 36mm model are its colorful, stylish dial options.

These include bright black, candy pink, bright blue, turquoise blue, green, and silver. I’ll discuss a couple that stand out. 

The candy pink dial is bright and vibrant on the wrist, making it an excellent option for the “legally blonde” lady lawyers out there, as well as the stylish men of LA, New York, and D.C. that aren’t afraid to don a soft pink dress shirt in the spring. 

The turquoise blue offers a “Tiffany-style” note and is another great unisex option. 

Specs & Features:

• Case size: 36mm
• Case material: Stainless steel
• Dial colors: bright black, candy pink, bright blue, turquoise blue, green, silver.
• Movement: Automatic (Caliber 3230)
• Power reserve: 70 hours
• Water resistance: 100 meters/330 feet
• Bracelet/strap: Oyster steel bracelet
• Features: Date display, central seconds hand, stop-seconds for precise time setting

Price: $6,100

6. ROLEX EXPLORER II 42MM (ref. 226570)

The Explorer II was first introduced in 1971 as a watch designed for cave and polar explorers. The watch features a fixed bezel with a 24-hour graduated scale. Its orange 24-hour hand makes it easy to distinguish day from night.

It also has a very legible dial that is protected by the sapphire crystal and features a date function and the ability to stop the seconds hand for precise time setting. The watch sits broadly on the wrist, and I would therefore recommend it for medium to larger wrists.

However, it does sit low enough to slide under a dress shirt, giving it sport/dress versatility. Some have complained that Rolex didn’t “upgrade” the steel bezel to a ceramic. However, the steel gives a nod to the timepieces’ 70s roots, and I think it distinguishes it nicely from other luxury watches in this space.  

Specs & Features:

• Case size: 42mm
• Case material: Stainless steel
• Dial colors: White & black 
• Movement: Automatic (Caliber 3285)
• Power reserve: Approximately 48 hours
• Water resistance: 100 meters / 330 feet
• Bracelet/strap: Stainless steel Oyster bracelet with folding clasp
• Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, 24-hour display

Price: $9,650

7. ROLEX DATEJUST 36MM (ref. 126200)

The Rolex Datejust is a line of luxury wristwatches that was first introduced by Rolex in 1945 to celebrate the brand’s 40th anniversary. It was the first wristwatch to feature an automatically changing date display, which was displayed in a window at the 3 o’clock position on the dial.

This feature was made possible by developing a new movement, the Caliber 450, which was also the first to be produced entirely in-house by Rolex. There are obviously many similarities between Datejust 36mm and the 41mm previously covered in this article.

Besides the difference in case size, the 36mm model has a more classic and timeless look, while the 41mm model has a modern and bolder appearance. Staying in the sub $10000 category for the 36mm, you can get either the Oyster or Jubilee bracelet (as with the 41mm). Still, should you fancy it, you can also afford the white gold and steel materials with the fluted bezel. 

Specs & features:

• Case size: 36mm
• Case material: Stainless steel, white gold & steel
• Dial colors: Bright black, slate, slate with green roman numerals, bright blue,  bright blue/fluted motif, Azzurro blue, mint green, mint green fluted motif, silver & white with roman numerals.  
• Movement: Automatic (caliber 3235)
• Power reserve: 70 hours
• Water resistance: 100 meters/ 330 feet
• Bracelet/strap: Stainless steel Jubilee with folding clasp
• Features: Date display at 3 o’clock with Cyclops lens, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, unidirectional rotatable bezel, luminescent hour markers, COSC-certified chronometer.

Price: $7,450-$8,950

8. ROLEX AIR-KING 40MM (ref. 126900)

The Air-King collection has a rich history in aviation. The original Air-King model was first introduced in the 1940s, specifically designed to pay tribute to the British Royal Air Force (RAF) pilots, who played a crucial role during World War II. The Air-King models are known for their durability, reliability, and legibility, which were essential for pilots who needed to keep track of time while flying.

The 26900 case sits lower but broader than previous models. This watch fits a medium to large wrist. This timepiece features a pinned Rolex crown with a clamshell and spring-loaded Lift-Lock system and hook. 

The previous model only featured a stamped Rolex crown and Lift-Lock, so this is a big upgrade. The dial has also changed. It features loomed 3, 6, and 9 numerals. This offers a much better sense of time in the dark. The Mercedes-style hour hand is more pointed and longer. 

Specs & features: 

• Case size: 40mm diameter
• Case material: Stainless steel
• Dial colors: Black with white gold numerals and indicators 
• Movement: Automatic caliber 3230, self-winding mechanism
• Power reserve: 70 hours
• Water resistance: 100 meters (330 feet)
• Bracelet/strap: Stainless steel, folding clasp with safety release
• Features: Centre hour, minute, and seconds hands. Stop-seconds for precise time setting 

Price: $7,450

9. ROLEX MILGAUSS 40MM (ref. 116400GV)

The Rolex Milgauss is known for its ability to resist magnetic fields up to 1,000 Gauss, hence the name “Milgauss” (a combination of “mille”, the French word for “thousand”, and the measuring unit for magnetic flux density “Gauss”). 

It’s a modern version of the classic Milgauss model that was first launched in 1956 and made for engineers and technicians. The Milgauss hasn’t been made by Rolex since the 1980s and only came back into production in 2007.

This timepiece is a good fit for a smaller wrist. It’s thin and low profile and slides easily under a dress shirt. It’s a graceful-looking watch with a handsome green-tinted crystal, paired with a matt black dial (in contrast to the typical glossy black Rolex is known for), or you can select the Z-green dial. The black dial sports two-tone luminous indicators. This model includes the Easy-Link system and raised Rolex crown. 

Specs & features: 

• Case size: 36mm
• Case material: Stainless steel
• Dial Colors: White with Roman numeral hour markers
• Movement: Automatic caliber 3131, self-winding
• Power reserve: Approximately 48 hours 
• Water resistance: 100 meters/ 330 feet
• Bracelet/strap: Stainless steel Jubilee with folding clasp
• Features: Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing)

Price: $9,300

10.  ROLEX GMT MASTER II 40MM (ref. 126710BLRO)

The Rolex GMT Master II is a watch developed specifically for pilots and frequent travelers. It features a bi-directional rotating bezel with a 24-hour hand that can be set to a second time zone, allowing the wearer to easily keep track of time in two different time zones. 

The black dial with luminescent hour markers and hands makes it easy to read in any lighting conditions. The 40mm case size is perfect for people with average wrists and will fit comfortably. The stainless-steel oyster bracelet with a folding Oysterclasp and an Easylink 5mm comfort extension link allows the wearer to adjust the bracelet for a perfect fit.

This model pushes our budget cap just slightly above $10000. It’s also a watch in high demand and difficult to find, so one may have to spend beyond the MSRP to acquire it. Many consider it a solid investment and worth the effort and cost. 

Specs & features: 

• Case size: 40mm
• Case material: Stainless steel
• Dial color: Black
• Movement: Rolex Caliber 3285, self-winding mechanical
• Power reserve: 70 hours
• Water resistance: 100 meters/ 330 feet
• Bracelet/strap: Stainless steel, Jubilee 
• Features: Hour, minute, and seconds hands, dual time function with independent 24-hour hand, adjustable through the crown

Price: $10,700 – $10,900

CLOSING THOUGHTS

Rolex is arguably the most recognizable luxury watch brand in the world. Many collectors also regard them as a solid investment. Their collections have been known to hold their value, and some have even appreciated selling for more than their retail price in the pre-owned market. 

The list we’ve assembled offers a guide to what we regard as the finest Rolex timepieces, sub $10000. For expert guidance in purchasing your next Rolex, contact our friends at Exquisite Timepieces. 

When I think of the classic Rolex, many come to mind, like the Submariner, the GMT-Master, or the Explorer, but these are more tool watches. The one watch that fits any style is the Datejust. It is a simple watch with a date function and a timeless design that works in every facet of modern life.

Anywhere from the office to the beach to a formal event, the Datejust can do it all. I’ll be focusing on the 31mm and 36mm variations of the model because I believe 36mm is the do it all size, with 31mm being there for the more feminine design.

And yes, wrist size is a factor for both versions, but there are numerous factors when deciding between the two. Many might say what about the Day-Date? Yes, it’s a great watch, but it suits itself best at the 41mm size, in my opinion, because of its proportions on the dial.

The Day-Date is also more of a blingy watch, no matter the version. The Datejust is a more understated watch overall, in my opinion. For this article, I will focus on the current catalog and not vintage or discontinued models of the 31mm and 36mm variations of the Datejust.

History of the Datejust

In 1945, Rolex was celebrating its 40th anniversary as a watchmaking company, and with that, a new watch was designed and produced to celebrate the occasion. The result of this anniversary was the Rolex Datejust. 

It wasn’t just the timepiece that made a significant splash, but the bracelet it came on, the now famous jubilee, that many companies have copied or tried to emulate over the years. The Datejust, in its current catalog, offers the watch in both the jubilee and Oyster bracelets.

Many people who buy watches today are aware that a date complication is very common, but what they don’t know is that this function was first introduced with the Datejust. An automatic watch that instantly changes over the date at midnight.

The first reference of the Datejust was the 4467, and it came in 18k gold. There have been many versions since in precious metals, stainless steel, and of course, the famous two-tone or Rolesor (gold and stainless steel). 

The purpose of the Datejust is simple. It’s a versatile watch at 31mm and 36mm sizes for men and women for anything from a walk in the park, to a board meeting, to a night out with friends, dressed up or dressed down.

31mm Versus 36mm

For all intents and purposes, the similarities between the 31mm and 36mm versions of the Rolex Datejust are very apparent. They have similar case shapes, dial layouts, and bracelets and have the signature date function with the cyclops magnifier.

The differences are subtle in that the 31mm is obviously smaller and looks the part. It’s of a more feminine design and plays that part as it is usually the choice for women. 

That being said, many women look great in the 36mm version of the watch, and I also think there are some men that the 31mm Datejust would look right at home. Yes, of course, wrist size plays a determining role in the correct fit and look of one’s watch.

Another difference of the 31mm is that many of its designs are geared toward the more feminine. Many of the watches are gem set on the bezel and the indices. Not that the 36 mm doesn’t have these things, but the 31mm version does it with more of a jewelry design in mind. Just look at the flower, diamond design of one of the new 2022 31mm Datejust models.

The 36mm sticks to a more classic design, with things like honeycomb dials, solid color design, the classic Wimbledon dial, roman numerals, etc. Yes, both the 31mm and 36mm versions have many of the same dial designs, but the 31mm leans more towards the feminine side of design, whereas the 36mm leans more towards the traditional, as shown in this black dialed, two-tone Everose gold 36mm Datejust.

Other common traits between the Datejust 31mm and 36mm include the smooth and fluted bezel options, baton hands, roman numerals, and gem-set design. Regardless of the size, any Datejust model on the wrist is instantly recognizable as a Rolex.

What’s the Best Rolex Datejust Size for a Man?

This next part might be obvious. What is the correct size of watch for a man when comparing the 31mm and 36mm Datejust? Most people would say that it’s obviously the 36mm version. The 36mm version may be the right choice for many male wrists, but not everyone has the same wrist size. 

I also say whatever feels most comfortable on your wrist and what you think looks and feels best should be the watch that you choose. For example, the Cartier Tank is a much smaller watch and adorns the wrist of many men and women, no matter their wrist size. Sometimes it just comes down to being able to wear timeless designs no matter the size of one’s wrist. Just as an example, Muhammad Ali famously wore a Cartier Tank.

I also think smaller watches are on the comeback. The celebrities back in the 1960s, 70s, and 80s all wore for the most part sub 39mm watches. That’s both men and women. I myself own both large and smaller watches. I have an average-sized male wrist and I find myself going with my 36mm Explorer most of the time.

What’s the Best Rolex Datejust Size for a Woman?

What is the right size of Datejust for a woman, 31mm or 36mm? This comes down to preference and opinion. Yes, wrist size is a factor, but to me, it’s not the main factor when it comes down to it. 

Some women may be attracted to the more feminine design of the 31mm, but I think just as many women would be attracted to the more traditional designs of the 36mm. Choosing a watch always comes down to personal preference. Whether you are a man or a woman, you want what you want.

Some women may want something small on their wrist that is more in line with a piece of jewelry, like a bracelet, but some women may prefer more of a wrist presence, showing they have a timepiece on their wrist.

Another important factor for a woman to consider when choosing a Datejust size is the dial variations. While a dial with diamonds on it might seem out of place on a man’s wrist, a woman can easily wear this type of fancy watch as well as a more traditional monochromatic dial.

Choosing the Right Datejust for You

Throughout the article, I have mentioned many reasons why someone, man or woman, would choose the 31mm or the 36mm version of the Datejust. It just comes down to personal preference and what you want on your wrist. Something small with a feminine design or slightly larger with a more traditional watch design.

For myself, I would choose the 36mm option as I feel it fits my wrist the best, and I like the proportions of the dial layout. That’s my personal preference. I would go for the classic fluted bezel with a solid color on the dial, jubilee bracelet, and in stainless steel. I’m a sucker for simple, classic designs as I own a Rolex Explorer 1 (36mm) in stainless steel. 

Final Thoughts

The right Rolex Datejust is out there for you, and as I didn’t mention vintage, that’s an option as well. Modern and vintage, Rolex makes an excellent watch in 31mm and 36mm Datejust models.

Happy Rolex hunting to all the men and women out there looking for the “Classic Watch of Reference”, the Rolex Datejust. 

Nothing will shake up the watch industry like a new release from Rolex! Every Facebook Group, watch blog site, and YouTube personality erupts with positive and negative opinions immediately following any release, regardless of how subtle the changes are.

The release of the new Rolex Deepsea Challenge was different. Sure, everyone was quick to react with an opinion, but the changes they discussed were far from minute; some may even say they were huge! To better understand this new release from Rolex, let’s explore the path Rolex has taken to lead to their latest bragging right.

Rolex has always had an affinity for pushing the limits of what is possible with a mechanical wristwatch. From accompanying Sir Edmund Hilary on his Everest expedition to the deep explorations of the Undersea World of Jacques Cousteau. It is the later explorations that helped cement Rolex as the premier tool watch of choice for any type of modern explorer.

Through the expertise and technology derived from the commercially available Submariner line, Rolex pushed the limits once again while accompanying the Trieste on a record-breaking dive to nearly 11,000 meters in Mariana’s Trench back in 1960 with a specifically designed watch.

Fast forward to 2008, and Rolex was at it again. After nearly perfecting their Submariner and Sea Dweller lines, Rolex was after something that could once again push the limits. This resulted in the Rolex Deepsea, a commercially available dive watch capable of withstanding pressure at 3900 meters.

Four years later, in 2012, Rolex developed a special Rolex Deepsea Challenge to accompany James Cameron to another exploration of Mariana’s Trench. Although never commercially available, this watch is the inspiration for what was released in 2022.

The Rolex Deepsea Challenge, reference 126067, is the culmination of the last 70 years of Rolex innovation and their pursuit of dive watch perfection. Let’s look at 10 facts about this new watch and what its release means for Rolex and the rest of the watch industry as a whole.

1. The Rolex Deepsea Challenge is Large and in Charge!

Before diving into this new release, we need to address the elephant in the room. The 50mm elephant! The Rolex Deepsea Challenge is a very large watch. Coming in at 50mm wide and 23mm thick, this watch would have difficulty sliding under even the loosest cuffs.

The Deepsea Challenge dwarfs the standard Deepsea model at 44mm, a timepiece openly criticized for its large dimensions. Despite this large size, the watch remains “relatively” wearable considering what it is capable of. Afterall, the Deepsea challenge is not meant to melt away on your wrist when paired with a suit; it’s a tool engineered for a purpose.

2. New Materials! At Least New to Rolex

Rolex is not a brand known for pushing the boundaries of exotic materials. Sure, they like to experiment with little brother Tudor, but Rolex doesn’t usually get in on the fun. The Deepsea Challenge utilizes Rolex’s new RLX titanium. This metal is grade 5 titanium, a material known for its corrosion resistance and lightweight properties compared to stainless steel. Why is this a big deal? This is the first time Rolex has constructed a watch entirely out of titanium.

It has been used for the case back on previous models but never for an entire piece. With a watch sized at 50mm, titanium allows this piece to be somewhat wearable at “just” 251 grams, as opposed to the 350+ that it would be had it been fashioned out of stainless steel. The rest of the industry has been much quicker to adopt titanium. But, by Rolex acknowledging its functionality, there is no doubt that many other brands will be lining up to do the same.

3. This Watch Can Go Deep!

The Rolex Deepsea Challenge has a water resistance of 11,000 meters. If you find yourself casually strolling the deepest depths of the ocean, you will be as dead as a person can be, but at least your watch will still be ticking away. There have been a few watches accompanying dives to this depth, so what makes this watch special?

If you wanted one of those other watches, you needed to be a museum curator, an eccentric billionaire collector, or James Cameron (who honestly might be all 3). The Rolex Deepsea Challenge, however, is a commercially available watch, meaning that this technology is finally available for the everyday consumer.

Will we ever need a watch rated to go down to this depth? Absolutely not! Is it fun to know that your wristwatch could reach the deepest depths of our planet? Hell yeah!

4. Bells and Whistles!

How does Rolex manage to achieve these great depths? There are a few very clever enhancements from the standard Submariner line that help differentiate this model. The first is the helium escape valve. This technology is fairly common today, but when first introduced in the 1960s was instrumental in allowing watches to reach great depths.

The condensed version is that, at great depths, compressed helium particles, which are smaller than water, can enter the watch and create a pressure difference during the decompression process. This would cause the crystal of a timepiece to pop off, effectively ruining your watch and your day. The Helium Escape Valve allows these helium particles to freely enter and escape your piece without the possibility of water ingress.

The other enhancement to the Deepsea Challenge comes in the form of the Ring Lock System. This system is a nitrogen-alloyed stainless steel compression ring that helps to absorb the pressure experienced through the caseback and crystal of the watch. With this compression ring, the water-tight seals maintain their shape and ensure a proper fit.

These innovations may not seem as groundbreaking as they did in 1967 and 2008 upon their introduction. But, combined with other refinements, they allow this watch to go deeper than any commercially available watch.

5. It’s Not a Cheap Watch! But Would It Be a Rolex if It Was?

Rolex sports models are not necessarily known for their bargain prices. This Deepsea Challenge is certainly no different, coming in at about $26,000. That’s a lot of money for a tool watch, but to Rolex’s credit, this watch is doing something that no other commercially available watch can do.

Considering that a standard Rolex Submariner can set you back more than $15000 on the preowned market, if you can acquire this watch at retail, you would be getting an absolute bargain. The most surprising part of this equation is that, in a world of complete scarcity regarding new Rolex models’ availability at retail, people are having some success with this model.

Although anecdotal, my timeline has been full of people trying this watch on for fun but ultimately turning it down due to its size or higher retail price. Given the history of Rolex sports models, could we be sleeping on the next auction house sweetheart?

6. Consistency in Design

If there is one thing that differentiates Rolex from its competitors, it is its ability to stay consistent. This glacial pace of refinement leads to some people getting bored with the design of many Rolex models. This iconic look has allowed a Rolex watch to create a distinct identity. This new Deepsea Challenge model is very distinctly a Rolex dive watch.

There are changes to the size and the rehaut, but the timepiece is still a refinement of the original design. If you compare this watch to a vintage Rolex Submariner, although the Submariner will look downright diminutive, you will be able to see the design characteristics that have carried through several new iterations and models. Consistency has always been one of the keys to Rolex’s success.

7. Rolex vs. Omega

Rolex and Omega are no strangers to doling out right hooks to each other. As soon as one company reaches a milestone, the other is there to one-up them. There is no greater example of this back and forth than when it comes to deep sea exploration. With the release of the Rolex Deepsea in 2008, Rolex set the standard for a commercially available dive watch by achieving a water resistance of 4000 meters.

In early 2022, Omega put the watch industry on notice by releasing the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep. This large titanium watch’s capability of reaching depths of 6000 meters not only gave them the title of deepest depth rating for a commercially available dive watch, but it did so in a convincing fashion, surpassing the Rolex by 150%.

Rolex was officially in second place, a position they did not take too fond of occupying. The “pressure” was on, and less than a year later, we received this new Deepsea Challenge. A watch that doubled the depth rating of the Ultra Deep and delivered what could only be described as the gut punch of a lifetime to Omega.

8. How Does This Watch Impact Tudor?

When it comes to the relationship between Rolex and Tudor, the lines have become very blurred over the last few years. Every time we think we have this relationship figured out, Tudor decides to introduce a solid gold watch, or Rolex refocuses on the tool watch market, completely confusing every watch enthusiast. The release of the Deepsea Challenge further complicates how we view these two intertwined brands.

For the last couple of years, the trajectory was heading toward a path of Rolex making high-end luxury watches, while Tudor filled in the hole in the market Rolex left behind for premium tool watches. Rolex focusing on new materials like titanium and creating a timepiece aiming to push the limits of a tool watch feels very “old Rolex” and something we thought Tudor would be concentrating on. Perhaps the relationship between these two brands isn’t as clear-cut as we all assumed.

9. What This Means for the Future of Rolex

The new Deepsea Challenge says more for the future of Rolex than almost any other modern release over the last few years. Rolex can now manufacture watches out of titanium. The possibilities there are endless. Can you imagine an RLX titanium Submariner? I am sure that would be an easy watch to get at retail!

Looking beyond just the possibilities with materials, Rolex can now do something they have rarely been able to do over the last several years. They’ve proven that they still have the ability to surprise us. Maybe their next release will push the limits again in terms of specification, or we may see another unique material, like a ceramic case. The only thing that’s certain is that we might have something a little more interesting than 1mm in case size to debate about next year.

10. A Call Back to the Past

The Deepsea Challenge represents a return to form for Rolex. Not just in their ability to surprise us or make a tool watch but their ability to push the limits of what is possible. For a company that earned its reputation through accompanying real-life explorers as they discovered the previously undiscovered, the modern luxury status of Rolex just never seemed to fit.

These watches have been on people’s wrists, pushing boundaries and setting records. They were meant to be a tool; and not just a tool to increase wealth by sitting in a bank safe and appreciating in value. I am sure this watch will one day be an investment, but it certainly wasn’t designed to be.

Let the call back of the beautifully chamfered lugs of the Deepsea Challenge transport you to a time when Rolex not only took the extra time for aesthetic detail but also prided themselves on creating watches that were meant to be used!

The Leviathan of the Past Rises Again

The Rolex Deepsea Challenge is, in many ways, a misunderstood release from Rolex. It has quite a few detractors who see this release as nothing more than an oversized Submariner. When you view this watch through a narrow lens of their luxury prestige, I can see how one could come to this opinion.

It’s important to remember that although Rolex has undoubtedly played into that luxury image with some of its pieces, they still produce fully capable tool watches. In many ways, the second-hand market has elevated these pieces to an ultra-luxury status. The Deepsea Challenge is an evolution of Rolex’s prestigious tool watch history, not their luxury one.

When you view this watch through that lens, although still being very large, the Deepsea Challenge is the modern definition of a tool watch.