Category: Rolex

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual and other models have long been key targets for counterfeit production, with many replicas emerging from China. In April last year, US Customs and Border Protection officers in Indianapolis confiscated hundreds of fake Rolex watches.

The watches came in two shipments that originated in Hong Kong and were destined for Brooklyn, New York. If sold as real, they would have been valued at more than $10 million. 

Benjamin Clymer, the founder of Hodinkee, a top watch magazine, once remarked that there are more fake Rolex watches on the market than all other fakes combined. 

With technological advancements, many producers of counterfeit Rolex watches have improved their manufacturing processes, making it extremely difficult to tell a fake Rolex watch from the real deal.

The Oyster Perpetual collection is our focus today because it embodies the brand’s exquisite craftsmanship and prestige. It features a lineup of watches that all draw inspiration from the original Oyster, which was the first waterproof and dustproof wristwatch created in 1926.  

Since it’s a very popular collection that millions have come to love over the years, thousands of replicas are produced yearly.

Below, we will be discussing everything you need to know about this legendary collection and some telltale signs of questionable authenticity to look for when buying a Rolex Oyster Perpetual.

About Fake Rolex Watches

Do you want to know why there are so many fake Rolex watches in circulation? It is because Rolex is the number one producer of G.O.A.T. models aplenty. Rolex is the apotheosis of Haute Horology. Rolex is the peak of all that luxury stands for.

Rolex is the symbol of class. Rolex is representative of precision, functionality, timeless design, elegance, and sophistication in the world of Horology, and unfortunately, not everyone can afford that.

Rolex has earned so much popularity and reputation over the years, and as they say, being the top dog in the market attracts a pack of hungry wolves. The staggering prevalence of counterfeit Rolex watches on the market makes it the most faked watch brand in the world.

If there are so many Fake Rolexes on the market, it only means one thing: massive demand for them. So the big question is, why would someone opt for a fake without an original? Well, let’s look at it this way, the demand for fake Rolex watches can be attributed to various factors, including the prestige of owning a Rolex watch.

However, Rolex has meticulous control over supply. So unlike other luxury brands, the Swiss Marque adopts a strategy of gradual production increase instead of rapid expansion to maintain controlled growth and stability. With an estimated annual revenue of over $8 billion, Rolex has created exclusivity and desirability around its products, which explains why owning a Rolex is considered an achievement.

This high demand, coupled with carefully controlled supply, has led to a surge in the availability of imitators of varying quality. For instance, the infamous Canal Street market in New York has long been associated with blatant replicas sold at dirt-cheap prices. Interestingly, they have also improved their craft and produced deceptive copies to deceive unsuspecting buyers willing to pay a premium price.

The Federation of the Swiss Watch industry reports that counterfeiters produce approximately 1.6 million fake Rolex watches annually, in stark contrast to the 1 million original ones produced by the company.

The availability of fake Rolex watches, blatantly obvious and deceptively well-made, poses a real challenge to the company. Despite this, the watch’s relentless demand and shortage of authentic pieces demonstrate Rolex’s enduring appeal and desirability among consumers and collectors alike.

What Makes the Rolex Oyster Perpetual So Special?

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual is a sophisticated and elegant masterpiece combining intricate detailing, exceptional craftsmanship, and remarkable reliability. It was in 1926 that Rolex launched the legendary ‘Oyster’ case, which was the world’s first case to be water- and dust-proof.

The Oyster case was hermetically sealed and featured a screw-down crown which allowed it to withstand depths of up to 100 meters. Years passed, and the first self-winding mechanical ‘Perpetual’ movement was released in 1931.

These two important inventions merged to form the Rolex Oyster Perpetual and would serve as the foundation for millions of Rolex watches from that point on, making it extremely popular.

From its groundbreaking creation as the world’s first waterproof and dustproof wristwatch in 1926 to its triumphs in the English Channel swim and record-breaking land speed races, the Oyster Perpetual has cemented itself as an icon of endurance and precision.

Below we highlight the captivating legacy of the Oyster Perpetual and its enduring impact on the world of timekeeping.

• Classic Style and Design

The Oyster Perpetual embodies an incredibly well-made construction and democratic pricing; it represents the purest distillation of Hans Wilsdorf’s vision of creating the definitive Swiss-made wristwatch.

• Timeless Form and Function

The Oyster Perpetual today inherits the legacy of the original Oyster in addition to avant-garde technicalities. This emphasis on durability and reliability has remained a hallmark of the Oyster Perpetual line.

• Direct Descendant of the Original Oyster

The Oyster Perpetual name reflects the two foundational elements of its creation. “Oyster” refers to the pioneering waterproof case, and “Perpetual” signifies the self-winding movement invented by Rolex in 1931. Over time, the Oyster’s Perpetual name became a prefix for various models within the Rolex collection, symbolizing their water resistance and automatic movement.

• Excellent Chronometric Precision

Oyster Perpetual features in-house, self-winding movements that are COSC-certified and built to exceptional standards. Incorporating advanced technologies, such as the Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorber, enhances accuracy, stability, and shock resistance.

• Timeless Choice for Men and Women

The Oyster Perpetual’s popularity transcends gender, with its more diminutive sizes initially appealing to women. However, the introduction of the 39mm model in 2015 and the 41mm model in 2020 also expanded its appeal to men. 

The watch’s design, characterized by its curved lines, slim lugs, and polished and brushed surfaces, has remained remarkably consistent since its launch in 1931. This enduring design and its versatility allow the Oyster Perpetual to complement both casual and formal attire effortlessly.

The Oyster Perpetual remains Rolex’s hallmark of intricate detailing that will continue to exude sophistication, presence, and elegance. This explains why it has become the Holy Grail for watch enthusiasts, with everyone longing to be part of the elite few who possess it, making it a target for counterfeiters.

How to Spot a Fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual

We have already established that the Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch is a direct progeny of the premier watertight Rolex Oyster timepiece manufactured in 1926. Apart from being the world’s first patented waterproof watch, the Oyster Perpetual bears the brand’s founding legacy and carries the classic and timeless spirit of its era.

The Swiss Customs Service reported that approximately 40 million counterfeit watches are released into circulation each year, and we know that Rolex watches make up the highest numbers there.

Today, with technological advancements, counterfeit Oyster Perpetual watches are looking so good and so close to the original that identifying an authentic one is quite a challenge. But there is always a way out. To help you distinguish between a fake and a real Rolex Oyster Perpetual, we have put together this detailed list of 10 factors below.

Watch Price

The Oyster Perpetual is one of the brand’s long-established models, and the brand seems to be constantly increasing the price as the months roll by. But, at the time of writing this article, the retail price for the smallest model of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual starts at $5,500 and increases with size.  

The new 2020 update introduced the Rolex Oyster Perpetual in 28mm, 31mm, 34mm, 36mm, and 41mm sizes with enchanting stand-out colorful dials that increased the appeal for Oyster Perpetual watches.

The price of a new Oyster Perpetual 41mm model, which is powered by Rolex’s new-generation Caliber 3230 movement, is $6,400 on the brand’s website at the moment.

However, new Rolex watches can be hard to find as the brand does not sell anything online, so to purchase one, you will have to get on the waitlist of any of Rolex’s 1816 authorized retailers around the world. This can sometimes be hard for prospective buyers without an established relationship with an authorized distributor, which leads people to the gray market. 

On the secondary market, Oyster Perpetual watches command higher prices. Expect to spend around $10,000 for the 41mm Ref. 124300 (or even up to $30,000 for the coveted Tiffany dial) and around $8,000 for the 36mm Ref. 126000.

It is good to be guided by these facts because while everyone loves a great discount, a Rolex Oyster Perpetual with a really low price might indicate more risk than reward.

A deep discount for such an in-demand timepiece like the Oyster Perpetual is a red flag. Period. It doesn’t matter if the vintage market is highly reputable because there are many scammers out there who sell items through trustworthy marketplace websites with great reviews too. 

If the price of the Oyster Perpetual is too good to be true, it probably is. If the low prices are so stunning that it isn’t available anywhere else, then you should figure out quickly that there’s a good reason for that – the watch is not real.

Unless you are buying from an authorized dealer, be suspicious of stores offering highly discounted Oyster Perpetual watches because there’s a good chance you’d wind up paying for a counterfeit timepiece or get absolutely nothing in return.

Serial and Reference Number

Every Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch comes with a distinctive serial number. The serial number or unique identifier can be found engraved between the watch casing lugs, under the bracelet, situated at 6 o’clock, and is equally listed on the papers (or certificate) from Rolex.

Each number corresponds to a particular year or period in which the watch was manufactured, giving you valuable knowledge on craftsmanship, authenticity, and even cult status.

Also called the model number, the reference number of your Rolex watch is a 4 – 6 digit code engraved by Rolex in every single timepiece. You can usually find it on your Oyster Perpetual between the lugs on the side of the case at the 12 o’clock position, between the bracelet. 

The Rolex reference number is equally listed on the papers from Rolex and provides useful information about the model or collection. It also tells you what material your watch is made from. Generally, the first two to four digits tell us the model or collection (i.e. whether it is an Oyster Perpetual collection, a Submariner, Sea-Dweller, or GMT-Master). 

Depending on the digits in the mix, you will be able to identify whether your Rolex watch is made of stainless steel, Everose Rolesor (a combination of stainless steel and Everose gold), Rolesium (a melange of stainless steel and platinum) or 18K Yellow/White gold. It’s best not to rely on the image alone to ascertain the watches’ inherent value. 

The reference number also determines the bezel type, whether it is engraved, engine-turned, fluted, totable, or hand-crafted. A fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch will feature a misplaced serial number or a reference number that does not match the design, materials, and model or the production year of the watch.

Again many counterfeit Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches do not have their serial or reference numbers engraved on them. Rolex has been engraving these unique numbers on their watches since the 1920s, and they always engrave them deeply into the metal. Replicas often inscribe serial numbers with acid.

Case Finishing

The devil is in the details, they say, and we know very well that it is the tiny details that make or mar the entire timepiece at the end of the day.

The finishing of the case of any watch is a major determinant of how the overall look, feel, and design will be. The finish of a case is a manufacturing process in which the surface is manipulated by polishing, brushing, and/or beveling to render an attractive surface appearance to the metal.

The price of a watch can even be justified or criticized based on the quality of the case finishing so this is a very important point. As expected from an ultra high-end brand like Rolex with over 100 years of high precision manufacturing techniques, the case always displays a superlative artisanal hand finishing capacity.

Every Rolex Oyster Perpetual receives an initial polish from a machine, but after that, it is finished and polished by hand. The finishing is often perfect, and there has never been a report of visible imperfections.

To identify a fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual, examine the case closely for a high level of finishing. There should be fine details that give the case a sharp, elegant appearance. A finely polished case reflects light beautifully offering the watch a luxurious and sophisticated look.

Apart from polishing, brushed finishes are also commonly used. Straight grain and circular grain brushing are used on the more circular parts of the case, such as the case back, and the Oyster Perpetual Ref. 126000 perfectly illustrates this with a fine circular grain under the lugs and around the case back.

The case of a fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual will display a very shallow level of brushing that will allow the polished surface to shine through (brushing is usually done after polishing). The lines of the case will also appear soft, dull, and smoothed over rather than crisp, sharp and reflective, and smooth as possible.

You may also notice that the hairlines don’t appear uniformly parallel, the brushing of the top and side of the case sort of ‘leaks’ into the chamfer, and the surface of the hairline finish doesn’t have a grippy surface or isn’t pronounced.

Any sign of imperfection or flaw in the finishing of the case is not something you should overlook, as it might be a fake watch.

Crown

Laser-etched Crown

Rolex is no stranger to replicas. The brand knows that many of its iconic models have been imitated by counterfeiters and is doing all it can to put an end to this. In 2002, a minuscule detail was introduced as an additional security feature to checkmate the illegal act. 

Rolex decided to engrave a crown on the sapphire glass. The laser-etched crown is so small that it cannot be seen with the naked eye. Technically, the crown is not engraved or etched on top of the protective sapphire glass but inside it. 

The easiest way to check if your Oyster Perpetual watch has this crown is to shine a flashlight at an angle on the sapphire glass. While the light is on it, take a look at the glass from the opposite end. The crown is located at the 6 o’clock position on the sapphire glass and is identical to the Rolex coronet logo, but this one features a laser-etched ‘S’ for service within. 

Even though it’s incredibly difficult to replicate since the crown is embedded within the sapphire glass, fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches also come with counterfeit laser-etched crowns, so don’t assume you’re safe just yet if you spot a watch with one.

Coronet Logo

Another red flag is a misplaced or missing crown logo. The notable Rolex coronet logo is a majestic five-point crown found on every dial of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch. It is typically placed at 12 o’clock, below the sizable triangular dial marker. 

Screw-down Crown

The crown of your Rolex Oyster Perpetual is the tiny knob located at 3 o’clock. It is an important component that allows you to control the movement of the watch and adjust the time settings.

A genuine Rolex Oyster Perpetual uses a screw-down Twinlock winding crown equipped with a double waterproof system. All contemporary Rolex watches have the coronet on the crown, and so does the Oyster Perpetual. 

The Triplock crown of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is marked with a little dash underneath it. Sometimes it is protected by an integral crown guard, like in the case of the Oyster Perpetual Air-King, but smaller models like the Oyster Perpetual 36mm do not have a crown guard.

Viewing a fake and original crown guard side by side reveals that the counterfeit ones always have a more pointed appearance when compared to the genuine crown guards.

Watch Weight

The weight of a genuine Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch varies and differs from model to model, but if you have access to a scale, the weight is often between 100 and 160 grams for the Oystersteel models. 

When Rolex combines materials for the watch and uses a mix like Rolesor, which has a mileage of gold and Oyster Steel, or gold, the weight will be affected significantly and will fall between 200 to 270 grams.

That said, a real Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch will always have some weight and even feel slightly heavier than it looks. A large number of watches in the Oyster Perpetual collection are crafted with Oystersteel, which is a steel alloy specific to Rolex. 

The quality is way higher than 316L stainless steel as it belongs to the 904L steel family. As a result, it feels heavier and sturdier than regular watches. Of course, the silver and gold models are even heavier than Oystersteel, so be sure to check the weight of your Oyster Perpetual watch before buying it.

A watch that feels feather-light is made with inferior materials. If your Rolex watch doesn’t have the expected heft, you are probably dealing with a counterfeit.

Dial

The dial is essentially the face of the watch and is the first thing people notice because it acts as a background and carries certain indications, such as the hour markers and handset. It is one of the most important features of a watch because, apart from its time-telling function, it sets the tone for our reaction to the entire timepiece.

If you have been lucky enough to hold many Rolex watches in your hands, your eyes would have developed to the point where you can have an instinctive feeling about what is right and what is not.

Like every other component, the dial of the Oyster Perpetual watch is crafted entirely in-house to the highest standards. High-tech machinery and traditional techniques by hand are used to meticulously place every detail to the utmost precision and in perfect alignment.

The dial of the Oyster Perpetual generally features a solid dial color with a fine combination of circular, triangular, or rectangular lume-filled hour markers.

At the moment, there are many available dial colors in the Oyster Perpetual collection, including turquoise blue, green, candy pink, bright blue, silver, bright black, and the latest addition, a Celebration motif featuring multi-colored bubbles on a turquoise backdrop.

The majority of these dials feature a sunray pattern (etched super fine lines) that radiates out from the center while others have a glossy surface akin to the colorful lacquer ‘Stella’ dials.

To identify a fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch, check the date aperture to see if the edges are wobbly, too small, or too large. Look out for small spelling mistakes, mismatched font style and size, awkward spacing of features, crooked or misplaced text, and misaligned hour and minute markers.

The Cyclops glass at 3 o’clock is made to magnify the date underneath by 2.5x legibility, and the date is instantaneous, which means it automatically jumps to the next date at midnight. Again the Cyclops glass is never flat. Never. It always protrudes like a bubble slightly above the sapphire glass. Whatever appears to be substandard or aesthetically off is worthy of closer inspection.

Hands & Indices

The hands and indices of a Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch are always sharply finished. Even though the configuration of the hour markers might differ between the 36mm and 41mm models when compared with their smaller siblings, they are always refined. 

Check for hour markers that are not perfectly refined or are unsymmetrical with a visibly cheaper quality. Often the smaller models come with a single luminous baton positioned at each marker except for the 12 o’clock marker. 

The larger models, on the other hand, feature double baton markers at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions for enhanced legibility. Rolex uses a special kind of lume (Chromalight) on the dials of certain watches, which has an afterglow that lasts longer in the dark than Super-LumiNova. 

The finishing of the hands should also be superlative. The ticking of the second hand is another important indication that helps you identify a fake Oyster Perpetual. A real Rolex watch should have a second hand that just sweeps smoothly across the dial without pausing to mark each second. 

If you hear that “tick, tick, tick” sound from the second hand, the watch is powered by a quartz movement and is fake.

Caseback

Another way to identify a counterfeit Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch is by looking at the rear cover of the case. The caseback is what protects the interior components of the watch. Apart from the Sea-Dweller models, Rolex does not engrave words, numbers, or logos on the outside of their case backs at all. 

The Sea-Dweller is the only known model to feature the words “Rolex Oyster Original Escape Valve” engraved in an arc-like manner on the back of the case.

If the caseback of a supposed Oyster Perpetual watch features engravings or is transparent and allows you to view the inner workings, then it is most likely a fake one.

Movement

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual uses a self-winding Perpetual movement. This means the watch is constantly wound by the wrist’s movement of the wearer. The in-house patented movement is certified as a chronometer by the COSC. The Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) is an organization that determines the accuracy and precision of high-end watches using several parameters. 

Each of these movements is further scrutinized at Rolex’s laboratory for precision, rate stability, self-winding capabilities, and power reserve. A fake Rolex watch will most likely be powered by a quartz movement which will reflect in the motion of the second hand.

The high-quality movement in the Oyster Perpetual gives it a smooth and continuous sweep across the dial (about 28,800 per hour). Even though some fake Rolex watches come with Swiss-made movements, the second hand still jumps rather than sweeps. If it sweeps, however, your best bet is to take a step further and investigate everything the movement inside the watch. 

Unfortunately, this will mean opening the case back lock, and you need specific tools for this. Once inside, examine the finishing and look for an engraved ”Rolex” on the movement as some fake movements do not bother to include this detail. All the current models of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual use either the caliber 3230 or the smaller caliber 2232.

Bracelet

A real Oyster Perpetual bracelet feels robust, strong, solid, and well-built. Like the overall feel of the watch, a quality bracelet will have some weight to it because it is manufactured exclusively from superlative materials. 

Any visible difference in weight and quality is worthy of further investigation. The signature Oyster bracelet with the Rolex Glidelock extension system is a common feature on all Oyster Perpetual watches. 

Ask and answer the following questions; Does the clasp snap open and shut easily? Is the entire bracelet incredibly engineered? What about the fit and feel? Again is the engraving on the bracelet well executed? 

Why You Should Avoid Fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual Watches

Back in April 2020, about 7000 counterfeit Rolex watches were crushed under the orders of federal authorities by a multi-ton double-drum vibrating roller in Philade

The gravity of the prevailing fake watch enterprise made Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) start up a publicity campaign with one message; “Fake Watches Are For Fake People.”

Joining the waiting list for a Rolex Oyster Perpetual can feel like waiting for a shooting star, so most people take the shortcut and opt for fakes instead. However, here are five reasons why rocking a fake watch is a terrible idea.

• Poor Quality and Performance: Original luxury watches are meticulously crafted using high-quality materials and undergo rigorous testing to ensure optimal performance. Conversely, we can’t say the same for fake watches.

• Legal and Ethical Implications: buying and wearing fake luxury watches in some parts of the US, France, and China is an outright offense. Customs agents will seize them and bag you hefty fines and, in worse cases, enough time behind bars.

• Limited Lifespan: Real luxury watches are built to last for decades, with models like Oyster Perpetual emphasizing longevity. In contrast, fake watches have short lifespans and quickly get worse with time.

• Reputation and Resale Value: We can’t say this enough, but wearing a fake watch can make you look ‘dumb’ among people who know the original, instantly tarnishing your reputation and credibility.

• Impact on the Luxury Watch Industry: Lastly, you’re hurting the original brand that produces the timepiece by wearing a fake luxury watch. It also means you’re encouraging the fraud behind it.

lphia. This act was carried out in front of press cameras to send a strong message to would-be counterfeiters and their prospective buyers. The offender was also sent to jail.

In March 2023, a music manager, Emmanuel Odunlami, was stabbed to death in the UK over a fake luxury watch worth over $300,000. Fake watches abound to gratify the desires of people who cannot access the real deal but still want to portray the same status and prestige associated with ultra-high-end brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe.

People also opt for fake watches to pose an air of superiority to uninformed people of low status. However, fake watches are illegal. Unlawfully copying the name, logo, and other trademarked elements of a brand to design a replica aesthetically is a crime.

How to Ensure You Buy a Real Rolex Oyster Perpetual

Spotting a fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch can be tough but not impossible. That said, you can take responsibility and do something about it. Here are five tips to help you get the real deal.

• Do Your Research

To ensure you get the real Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch, you need to take some time to properly research the product before you buy it. The web is one of the best resources out there to help you out, especially if you have not yet seen the model you want up close.  

Read through blogs and forums about the Oyster Perpetual and learn first-hand from users about the watch model you want to buy. Post whatever questions you may have on social media and some collectors’ forums. 

You could also ask your friends and family what they think about the retailer (if you hope to buy it from the grey market) and the product. Get the right information concerning the movement, bezel, dial, case, and bracelet to help you determine the authenticity of the watch before buying.

• Always Buy from a Reputable Seller

There are a few ways to purchase a Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch. The first and most secure way will be to acquire one from an authorized Rolex retailer. There are 317 authorized dealers across the United States, meaning there is one in every city. 

This way, a genuine Oyster Perpetual watch is guaranteed, and you get your product with a certificate of authenticity, a 5-year warranty that covers replacement parts and labor, complete papers, and everything there is.

Unfortunately, stores are regularly out of stock, so I can’t guarantee you’ll find one as soon as you hit the streets in search of it, as there might be a long waitlist for such a popular model. Your best bet will be to develop a relationship with your local Rolex boutique and also join their waiting list statistics by getting your name down.

The next place to find an Oyster Perpetual watch is in the thriving and rich secondary market, also called the grey market. This is where you’ll need to carefully examine and vet the timepiece before purchase to ensure authenticity and quality.

Reviews are among the top ways to figure out how safe a seller is, so carry out an extensive search on the reputation of the seller. As a general rule, retailers with a high number of feedback ratings and a positive feedback score of over 90% indicate that the seller is reputable.

A reputable dealer would have affiliations with respected watchmaking organizations, and it’s also worth checking social media channels to see if the retailer has a genuine following.

• Ask For Photos And Documents

If you are getting your Oyster Perpetual from a brick-and-mortar store, there should be a showroom where you can inspect and physically try out the watch while being assisted by an expert. 

But if you’re getting your luxury watch online, it is compulsory, very compulsory, to have images and details of the actual watch provided to you by the retailer. I say actual images because sometimes the retailer might have just factory images.

Most watch experts recommend completely servicing your Rolex every three to five years, so if you are getting a pre-owned Oyster Perpetual watch, ask the retailer whether the timepiece has been serviced and if any parts have been replaced. If it has been repaired previously, ask for the original pieces. Remember to request the paperwork or documents for the repairs during the buying process. 

The Rolex Certified Pre-Owned program allows people to purchase used Rolex watches from the crowned house with official dealers. Every timepiece obtained through this program is accompanied by a certificate of authenticity, the famous green seal, and a 2-year international warranty for pre-owned watches without papers.

For pre-owned watches from the grey market, ask for original boxes, papers, and sales receipts, as these all contribute to the provenance of a watch. However, the absence of these items does not mean the watch is fake. They only help in verifying the authenticity and legal ownership.

• Do Not Buy On Impulse

Impulse purchases are triggered by an irresistible force to buy an item without fully evaluating its consequences. Retailers love impulsive shopping habits and will encourage prospective buyers to give in to an impulse buy. 

This usually has a lot of disadvantages because it stems from our psychological weakness. First off, it could lead to many buying mistakes, including buying a fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch. 

It could also lead to financial strain, feelings of regret, and other negative outcomes. To avoid this, clarify your budget for the Oyster Perpetual watch and stick to it. Give the purchase time while you do proper research, and purchase it only when you’re in the right state of mind.

• Get An Expert’s Opinion

Rolex experts have a deep knowledge of every aspect of the brand and the watches produced. Many true experts, like the seasoned team at Exquisite Timepieces, have developed the ability to identify an authentic Oyster Perpetual watch. They can also recognize its corresponding parts, such as the case, bracelet, dial, hands, and so forth, with several years of experience. 

Conclusion

With all that being said, success procuring your Rolex Oyster Perpetual! Even though the astronomically high demand for it, which outstrips supply by far, might make buying an authentic one a daunting operation, the process is very rewarding and can also be a smart investment option depending on the model you opt for. Explore our iconic collection of pre-owned Rolex watches at Exquisite Timepieces.

Some models rise above the rest in the horological world to achieve iconic status. Born from an unlikely collaboration between Rolex and Zenith, the Zenith-powered Daytona 165xx series is a legendary branch in the Daytona family that marked a significant evolution in the model’s history.

Its commercial success is partly due to its development into a “brand within a brand”. Dedicated Daytona collectors often set themselves apart from the broader group of Rolex enthusiasts. A ridiculous example of this phenomenon was demonstrated by the record-setting sale of Paul Newman’s own Rolex Daytona to an anonymous bidder for over $17 million.

But that watch was from the first generation of Daytonas. Soon after, the brand was completely reformed by the Zenith-powered second generation, which brought many significant upgrades besides its movement. The rarity of the short production run and the iconic characteristics described within this article made the Rolex Zenith Daytona the ultimate racing icon.

About the Rolex Zenith Daytona

This particular model marks a significant turning point in the history of the Daytona series. It marks the first Rolex Daytona model that featured an automatic movement instead of the original hand-winding one. And this movement was the famous Zenith El-Primero movement. 

This caliber wasn’t made in-house by Rolex; however, it had heavy modifications that distinguished it from the original construction. Over the Zenith Daytona’s limited production run, a stainless steel, an 18k yellow gold version, and a combination of both were also featured.

History of the Rolex Zenith Daytona

Rolex’s Daytona collection, named after the famous Daytona Beach raceway in Florida, was launched in 1963. It quickly gained acclaim for its precision and reliability in motorsport timing.

The first generation of Rolex’s racing line had a hand-winding mechanical movement when it was manufactured until one day, in 1988, the brand released the very first automatic Daytona. It was powered by a modified Zenith El-Primero movement. 

Rolex drastically altered the original high-beat El Primero, reducing its frequency from 36,000 vibrations per hour to a more standard 28,800. Together with some additional changes, this collaboration resulted in the Rolex Calibre 4030.

The watch created has started a new avalanche of desirability and popularity for the Daytona collection. The Zenith movements were only featured until 2000, at which point Rolex unveiled its in-house caliber 4130. New Daytona models from then on only featured the caliber 4130.

The Rolex Zenith Daytona Caliber 4030

The Zenith “El Primero” movement was known for its high-beat frequency, date function, and integrated automatic chronograph design. Then Rolex came along and chose to use this movement for the Daytona after making several changes to it:

Beat Rate

As mentioned earlier, Rolex reduced the frequency from 36,000 vibrations per hour to 28,800 vibrations per hour. Thus, they have managed to increase the longevity and reliability of the movement.

Date Function Removal

The Zenith El Primero movement originally included a date function. Rolex removed this feature to keep Daytona’s design clean and focused on the chronograph function.

Chronograph Modification

Rolex completely redesigned the chronograph mechanism. They aimed to increase the durability of the watch while simplifying the user experience with these changes.

The original El Primero used a lateral clutch engagement system for the chronograph function (Imagine two gears sitting side by side on a table. When you want to engage the chronograph, you push one gear into the other, meshing their teeth together. This starts the chronograph mechanism). 

In contrast, Rolex modified it to a vertical clutch system (imagine stacking those two gears one on top of the other, so when you engage the chronograph, you’re pressing down the top gear onto the bottom one. This system generally allows for a smoother start without the jump seen in lateral clutches).

This change reduced wear on the mechanism when the chronograph was engaged for extended periods of time and improved its accuracy at the same time.

Balance and Hairspring

Rolex replaced the Zenith’s balance wheel (the wheel that oscillates back and forth, it’s responsible for keeping time in the watch) and hairspring (makes the balance wheel swing back and forth at a consistent rate) with its own, featuring Microstella regulating nuts (adjustable weights on the balance wheel that Rolex uses to fine-tune the accuracy of the watch) and a Breguet overcoil (a specific design of the hairspring, that helps the balance wheel swing more consistently and improves the watch’s accuracy), respectively. This allowed for more accurate adjustments and better resistance to temperature variations and shocks.

Escapement

The escapement in a watch transfers energy to the timekeeping element (the balance wheel) and ensures the timepiece keeps time accurately. It’s the heart of the watch. It involves two main components: the escape wheel (toothed wheel driven by the watch’s mainspring) and the pallet fork (a lever with two jeweled ‘pallets’ that interact with the teeth of the escape wheel).

In the original Zenith El Primero movement, a ‘Swiss lever’ escapement was used. However, Rolex decided to replace this with their own in-house design, known as the ‘Chronergy’ escapement, when they adopted the El Primero movement for the Daytona. The Chronergy escapement is an improved version of the Swiss lever escapement with modifications to the escape wheel and pallet fork that increase efficiency and reduce energy consumption.

Finishing and Decoration

When Rolex acquired the Zenith El Primero movements to use in their Daytona watches, they applied their unique aesthetic standards before putting them into production, such as Engraving, Polishing, and Gold Plating.

These modifications transformed the high-beat El Primero into the Caliber 4030, a movement that matched Rolex’s standards at the time. They’ve managed to improve the precision, reliability, and longevity of the movement before putting it onto the production line. It was these significant changes that helped elevate the Daytona’s status.

Caliber 4030 vs Caliber 4130: What Changes Did Rolex Make For Its In-House Movement?

The Caliber 4130 is the first movement entirely developed and manufactured in-house by Rolex, which replaced the Zenith-based Caliber 4030. It features a longer power reserve of 72 hours. It also has a similar vertical clutch mechanism to its predecessor for the chronograph function. 

However, the 4130 was the first Rolex caliber to introduce the brand’s “Parachrom Bleu” hairspring (that was unaffected by magnetic fields and was much more shock-resistant).

Rolex Zenith Daytona Watch Models

Rolex Zenith Daytona 16520

The 16520 is the stainless steel Zenith Daytona. Its material provides a sporty aesthetic over the other two models. It launched with either a black or a white dial option. Later on, a silver dial and an exotic “Daytona Paul Newman” dial also became available. The bezel on this specific watch is made out of stainless steel with an engraved tachymeter scale.

Rolex Zenith Daytona 16523

The 16520 is a combination of the stainless steel and the yellow-gold Zenith Daytona. The case and bracelet have a two-tone design, with the central links of the bracelet in gold. It featured the exact same dial options as the 16520 stainless steel model. The bezel on this specific watch is made out of 18k yellow gold, with a similar engraved tachymeter scale.

Rolex Zenith Daytona 16528

The 16520 is the 18k yellow gold Zenith Daytona. Its material gives it a luxurious and prestigious appearance. It featured the exact same dial options as the other two models. The bezel on this specific watch is also made of 18k yellow gold.

What’s Different About the Rolex Zenith Daytona Dial?

Both the Caliber 4030 and the Caliber 4130 Daytona models have a trio of subsidiary dials. Although these dials are positioned in a similar way, they line up in different order at the 3, 6, and 9-hour mark.

The Caliber 4130 models have the running seconds dial at 6 o’clock, while the 12-hour counter at the 9 o’clock position. The Zenith Daytona models have it switched, meaning the 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock and the running seconds dial at the 9 o’clock position. 

Both watches have their 30-minute counter at the 6 o’clock position. These subsidiary dials sit closer to each other on the Zenith-powered model, leaning more to the center compared to later models.

The Zenith Daytona also has a thinner set of luminated markers, making it harder to read in low-light conditions. Finally, the ref. 16520 stainless-steel version of the Zenith-powered Daytona uses a different color for its subdial rings on both the black and the white dial version.

How Difficult Is It to Get Your Hands on a Rolex Zenith Daytona?

This watch model has developed a significant following among collectors, and as it ages, interest in it only continues to grow. The Daytona, in general, is often described as a brand within a brand, with its own dedicated group of collectors.

The Zenith-powered Daytona is no exception, and it has appreciated steeply in value over time, especially when new versions of the Rolex Daytona are released​. Introduced as the first self-winding chronograph from Rolex, it marked a significant leap in the brand’s technical prowess.

This watch model also has a reputation for being hard to get a hold of from authorized dealers. Because of this, obtaining one has always been something of a “dark art.”

In addition, the Zenith-powered Daytona has various significant variations in the dial and bezels, which makes it even more appealing to collectors. People who dedicate their lives to obtaining the most iconic watches will always appreciate unique details on a timepiece, such as the different versions of the Zenith Daytona from MK1 to MK5.

To conclude, it’s very difficult to get your hands on a Zenith-powered Rolex Daytona. As its market price keeps growing over time, your competition will not only consist of Rolex enthusiasts but big-money investors as well.

Conclusion

While the Zenith Daytonas are no longer in production, their influence on the horological world remains unchanged. Their legacy extends further than the mechanical watch industry. These timepieces managed to form a worldwide community of racing watch enthusiasts within the Rolex brand. As the watch is likely to keep appreciating in the future, investors and motorsport fans will retain constant competition to get their hands on one.

In the realm of Rolex, few timepieces embody the spirit of adventure quite like the Explorers. With a heritage steeped in exploration and innovation, these iconic wristwatches have become veritable symbols of resilience and precision.

From their early days as tool watches, the Rolex Explorers have evolved and adapted, encapsulating the essence of discovery.

Join us on a captivating voyage as we delve into the fascinating history, compare the legendary Explorer I and Explorer II, and reveal the most notable pieces of this remarkable collection – the 10 best models that have left an indelible mark on the landscape of timekeeping.

Prepare to ignite your passion for horological exploration as we unlock the captivating tales of these timepieces beyond the boundaries of ordinary wristwear.

About the Rolex Explorer

The Rolex Explorer is a renowned collection of professional sports watches that was first introduced in 1953. Designed with the needs of mountaineers and explorers in mind, the Explorer quickly gained popularity among adventurers and outdoor enthusiasts. 

With its simple yet elegant design, robust construction, and accurate timekeeping, the Explorer has become a staple choice for individuals seeking a reliable timepiece. Despite its exceptional quality, the Rolex Explorer remains one of the more affordable options within the Rolex lineup, making it a favorite among collectors and enthusiasts.

History of the Rolex Explorer

The story of the Rolex Explorer began in 1952, a time when the summit of Mount Everest remained unconquered. Rolex, the renowned watchmaker, aimed to have their timepieces accompany climbers on their journey to the peak. 

In that same year, Rolex provided the British climbers with large-size Oyster watches, which would later serve as prototypes for the future Explorer models. The successful ascent of Mount Everest in 1953 by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay solidified the Explorer’s association with exploration and durability in extreme conditions.

Throughout its history, the Rolex Explorer has achieved notable milestones. The Explorer has been worn by esteemed characters and individuals such as James Bond, Neil Armstrong, and Buzz Aldrin, further cementing its status as a timepiece of choice for adventurers and celebrities alike.

As a result, the Rolex Explorer has gained popularity among collectors and investors due to its rich heritage and lasting appeal.

Rolex Explorer I vs Explorer II

Within the Explorer collection, there are two distinct model families: the Explorer I and the Explorer II. While both models share the Explorer name, they have key differences that set them apart.

The Rolex Explorer I is characterized by its classic and understated design. It features a clean dial with luminous and iconic “369” Arabic numerals and hands, providing excellent legibility. The Explorer I is known for its traditional 36mm stainless steel case, but it briefly appeared in a 39mm case and now exists in both 36 and 40mm versions.

On the other hand, the Rolex Explorer II takes a more rugged approach with its design. Introduced in 1971, the Explorer II was specifically designed for speleologists and cave explorers. 

It features a larger 42mm case, dots and dashes for hour markers, and an additional 24-hour hand, which allows for tracking two timezones simultaneously. The Explorer II has evolved over the years, with the latest reference being the 226570, offering modern features and advancements while staying true to its roots.

Rolex Explorer Models

There have been at least 19 models (the list is not exhaustive) of the Rolex Explorer since 1953, 4 of which are currently still on the production lines of the Genevan factory.

Model	Production Years
Explorer 6150	1953 (Pre-explorer)
Explorer 6350	1953-1955
Explorer 5518/0	1962-1964
Explorer 6610	1955-1959
Explorer 1016/0	1960-1990
Explorer 5500	1958-1967
Explorer 1016 Space-Dweller	Uncertain
Explorer 6429 (Known as “Commando”, very rare)	Uncertain
Explorer II 1655/0	1971-1983
Explorer II 16550	1983-1990
Explorer 14270	1991-2001
Explorer 114270	2002-2010
Explorer II 16570	1989-2011
Explorer II 216570	2011-2021
Explorer 214270	2010-2021
Explorer II 226570	2021-
Explorer 124270	2021-
Explorer 124273	2021-
Explorer 224270	2023-

Prices and Values

Prices for Explorer I and II models in the current production range between $8,700 and $13,300.

Explorer II 226570, 42mm, stainless steel: $10,900

Explorer I 124270, 36mm, stainless steel: $8,150

Explorer I 124273 36mm, stainless steel & yellow gold: $13,300

Explorer I 224270, 40mm, stainless steel: $8,700

On the secondary market, the first 2 models trade for a premium on the retail price. Overall, Rolex Explorer models usually sell for between $4,700 and $18,600 (for a Rolex Explorer 1016) on the pre-owned market. 

One of the most popular pre-owned Explorer is the 214270 reference, a 39mm edition whose first version (Mark 1) came with notoriously short hands as they hadn’t been adjusted up from the previous 36mm version.

An Understated Legacy

While the Explorer may not command the same attention and high prices at auction as some other Rolex models, its significance as a reliable tool watch cannot be understated. From its historical debuts to being associated with James Bond and its endorsement by renowned figures like Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin, the Explorer has garnered a reputation for its versatile elegance.

The Best Rolex Explorer Models

1. Rolex Explorer 40 (ref. 224270)

The newest Rolex Explorer is a faithful update with a larger 40mm case that has lovers of assertively sized sport watches rejoicing. What’s an even bigger change is that the Explorer now exists in two size options (36mm and 40mm).

The dial of the new Explorer has undergone a thoughtful revision, showcasing the “Explorer” name positioned near the top, aligning with the design choice of its smaller 36mm counterpart. This departure from the previous iteration, where the name was located at 6 o’clock on the 39mm version, adds a harmonious touch to the overall aesthetic.

It remains powered by Rolex’s robust 3230 self-winding movement with a 70-hour power reserve and comes fitted on a stainless steel Oyster bracelet. A combination of mostly brushed, and some polished surfaces give it the crisp and straightforward look I love in an everyday timepiece.

The new Rolex Explorer 40 sits at the top of decades of continuous improvements and refinements to the Explorer collection and, as such, embodies the very best of it.

2. Rolex Explorer II White Dial (ref. 226570-0001)

Let’s look at the 2021 Explorer II. It’s got a few new features that make this 42mm sport watch even better than the previous model.

First and foremost, the star of the show is the new 3285 movement that beats at the heart of this timepiece. With an impressive power reserve of 70 hours, this watch keeps ticking even when you decide to take a break.

You can confidently leave it on your dresser for the entire weekend, knowing it will remain in perfect sync until you pick it up again on Monday. The bracelet and clasp have also been redesigned. The bracelet is now wider and more comfortable to wear, and the clasp has been updated with a new, more secure design.

Finally, the hour markers and hands now use new-generation Chromalight luminescent material. This material glows brighter and longer than previous luminescent materials, making it easier to read the time in low-light conditions. These evolutions make the 2021 Explorer II one of the most well-executed Explorer models to date.

3. Rolex Explorer 36 (ref. 124270)

When the Explorer 36 made its highly anticipated debut in 2022, it instantly captured the attention of watch enthusiasts, and it’s easy to see why!

One of the most notable features of this release is the return to a 36mm case size, a change that delighted many devoted followers of the Explorer II. The downsized case brings enhanced comfort to the wearer and broadens its appeal to those with petite wrists.

As an added bonus, the reduced dimensions allow the watch to seamlessly transition from an outdoor companion to an elegant dress watch, offering versatility for any occasion.

But the improvements don’t stop there. The new 3230 movement represents a significant upgrade over its predecessor. This movement boasts a longer power reserve of up to 70 hours, as well as greater accuracy. The size and versatility of the 124270 make it one of the most interesting Explorer watches out there.

4. Rolex Explorer II Black dial (ref. 226570)

Released along with the “Polar” white dial version in 2021, this black edition presents a surprising difference in its dial.

On the black dial of the Rolex Explorer II Black dial, the hour, minute, and 24-hour hands undergo a subtle yet impactful transformation. Crafted from precious white gold, these new hands elevate the design of the watch.

This thoughtful update harmoniously aligns the hands with the markers on the dial, creating a seamless and visually striking ensemble. The choice of white gold for the hands is not merely an aesthetic enhancement but a deliberate design decision.

The contrasting hues of the white gold hands against the black dial create an exquisite interplay of light and shadow. This only adds to the superior pedigree of the 226570 in the Explorer’s team.

5. Rolex Explorer 36 Two-Tone (ref. 124273)

The Rolex Explorer 36 Two-Tone emerges as a captivating rendition of the timeless Explorer 36 watch fusing stainless steel and yellow gold.

This audacious design choice sets it apart from the crowd, exuding an air of confidence and style. The contrasting combination of materials adds a touch of opulence to the timepiece, elevating its aesthetic appeal and making it a true statement piece.

As the focal point of the watch, the black dial exudes simplicity and elegance in equal measure. Its refined design serves as a captivating backdrop for the luminescent Chromalight material, ensuring optimal legibility in even the most dimly lit environments.

Combining a bolder yet elegant look and all the credentials of a time-tested model, the Two-Tone is an Explorer model that stands out.

6. Rolex Explorer 1016

The Rolex Explorer 1016 is a vintage Rolex watch that truly captures the essence of a tool watch. It stands out with distinct features, such as the iconic “369” font. But what makes it exceptional are its two records: it’s the longest-running 4-digit reference, reigning for an incredible 30 years, and it’s the final 4-digit reference in the Rolex catalog, last produced in 1989.

The design of the Explorer 1016 has stood the test of time since its debut in 1953, showcasing a rugged elegance that never goes out of style. In recent years, the Explorer 1016 has gained in popularity, becoming a highly sought-after choice for collectors.

And its rarity only added to its appeal. Prices for the Explorer 1016 can range from around $12,000 to $45,000, depending on its condition and production period. Despite being a vintage watch, the Rolex Explorer 1016 has remained relevant and captivating to this day. Its historical importance and enduring aesthetic appeal make it one of the most notable Explorer models.

7. Rolex Explorer 1655

Initially overlooked, this vintage gem now commands the attention of collectors worldwide. Let’s delve into its intriguing past, unique design, rarity, and enduring appeal.

Designed as a tool watch for daring expeditions and adventures, the Explorer II 1655 embodies Rolex’s unwavering commitment to precision and durability. Its unconventional 24-hour dial, big orange hand (“freccione” in Italian), and steadfast non-rotating bezel set it apart from other Rolex timepieces.

The robust 1970s aesthetics, including the sturdy case and plexiglass crystal, exude a charm that will speak to enthusiasts of the era. While it carries the vintage appeal, the Explorer II 1655 holds its own against modern watches.

Though its 24h dial may require a discerning eye, it adds to the watch’s distinctive character once mastered. The less common 1970s look of the 1655, and its distinctive design features make this Explorer a model to remember.

8. Rolex Explorer 14270

The Rolex Explorer 14270, especially the “Blackout” version, holds a special place among collectors. Released in 1990 as an improvement over the iconic ref. 1016, it featured a gloss dial, sapphire crystal, and distinctive black enamel-filled Arabic numerals.

These unique dial details make the “Blackout” Explorer instantly recognizable and highly sought after by collectors. In fact, these early models are considered the rarest sapphire crystal Rolexes

The Explorer 14270 strikes a balance between vintage and modern aesthetics with upgraded details and a classic 36mm case size. Its comfortable feel and understated presence make it versatile and appealing.

Despite being underrated, the Explorer ref 14270 has a rich history and enduring style. It represents the concept of “youngtimer” in the watch market, gaining collectability. The distinctive aesthetical peculiarities of the 14270 and its sheer scarcity give it a unique position in the Explorer constellation.

9. Rolex Explorer II 16570

The Rolex Explorer II Ref. 16570 holds historical importance as one of the iconic young timer watches. It represents the transitional period between vintage and modern models, offering a blend of cool design, modern features, and accessible prices.

The 16570, positioned between vintage and modern models, features a classic Oyster case made of stainless steel, which hosts Rolex’s 3185 calibre. Its timeless design captures the essence of the Explorer series, with a fixed 24-hour bezel and a clean dial available in white or black. 

The watch’s distinct design elements, such as the angled brushing on the lugs and the textured and graduated bezel, contribute to its overall appeal. One particularly sought-after variation is the white “Polar” dial, which adds a touch of retro charm to the timepiece.

Its availability at a relatively affordable price compared to other Rolex models makes it an excellent choice for watch enthusiasts and collectors alike. The watch’s enduring appeal and value contribute to its status as one of the most appealing Explorer watches.

10. Rolex Explorer 39 (ref. 214270)

The Rolex Explorer 39 214270 introduces some important new features that enhance its appeal. One notable modification is the larger 39mm case diameter, providing a more balanced dial with prominent Arabic numerals.

In addition, the Rolex Explorer 39 214270 retains several key elements from previous editions. The watch continues to uphold its iconic design with a minimalist black time-only dial, baton hour markers, and an inverted triangle at 12 o’clock.

The movement inside the watch remains the 3132 calibre, a COSC-certified self-winding movement known for its reliability and precision. While the 39mm case size deviates from the traditional 36mm diameter of previous Explorers, it offers a contemporary twist and a more balanced dial layout.

The Rolex Explorer 39 214270 represents what Rolex does best: consistent, gradual improvement and mastery of execution.

Conclusion

The Rolex Explorer collection embodies the spirit of adventure and has captivated horological enthusiasts worldwide. From its rich history to its constant technological advancement, it has left an indelible mark.

These 10 best Explorers stand as testaments to the brand’s commitment to excellence, and each one is remarkable in its own right.

Let their tales inspire you to embrace the unknown and pursue your passions. The adventure continues—time is yours to conquer. Which of these Explorers will you slap on your wrist to embark on your horological odyssey?

It’s a known fact that Rolex is the crowned king of Haute Horology. Even total watch novices know that the brand has been in the business of making bucket-list-worthy watches since 1905.

The assertion that the Submariner is the most popular collection in the world – superseding all others in relevance and status – isn’t a utopian belief.

From the famous oceanographer Jacques-Yves Cousteau wearing one in the film “Le Monde du silence”, to James Bond flaunting the Submariner as the iconic watch par excellence, the Sub has adorned the wrists of history makers. 

Owning a Submariner means owning one of the best timepieces in the entire world, but not all Subs are created equally, which is where this article comes in. Held in veneration by acolytes of the Submariner and prissy watch collectors, the Kermit and Starbucks models are among the most celebrated and debated Subs in the past century.

But why are these models so hotly debated, and how do they perform against each other? Is there really any striking difference between them, and which one is the best option for you? Let’s find out!

About the Rolex Kermit

The first Submariner models officially debuted at Baselworld in 1954. The Ref. 6204 was the first diving watch made to be waterproof up to 100m. It was clear Rolex had huge plans for the Submariner from the beginning, and one of such was to leave a  legacy as one of the most important sports watches in history.

The Rolex Kermit was launched in 2003 to mark the 50th anniversary of the extolled Rolex Submariner collection. The first reference was 16610LV, and it came with a black dial and a green aluminum bezel. The unorthodox color choice was very unexpected, and the watch quickly garnered mixed reactions from Rolex’s fanbase.

The release was a surprise to the watch world and was also the very first Sub equipped with a green bezel. Many nicknames were attributed to the strange release, but the one that stuck was the ‘Kermit’.

Collectors choose to call the 16610LV the ‘Kermit’ because of the similarity in the coloring between the famous green frog and the Submariner’s bezel. The “LV” in the reference number represents “lunette verte,” which is French for “green bezel.” 

The 166170LV is presented in a compact 40mm case with a thickness of 13mm. The dial is a ‘maxi-dial’, meaning the markers and hands are larger than average to allow better visibility and more lumen for reading the time at night. The watch has a water-resistant rating of 300 meters, uses the Calibre 3135, and is mounted on a hollow link Oyster bracelet made of 904L stainless steel. 

Production was discontinued after seven years to make way for the new green Sub by way of the 116610LV “Hulk.” The Kermit remains the ultimate symbol of success and prestige and is one hell of a diver that makes for a great investment and family heirloom. 

Since its discontinuation, demand for the anniversary piece has grown, making it highly sought-after by collectors and enthusiasts.

About the Rolex Starbucks

Launched in September 2020, the Rolex Submariner Ref. 126610LV “Starbucks” was among the four new models added to the world’s most famous dive watch collection.

The Submariner began life as a perfect diver’s instrument, and the tough tests it victoriously survived made it fixated as Rolex’s flagship model. From 1953 to the date, the line has certainly evolved but not the base concept and design code.

The Ref. 126610LV was a fresh entry, joining the ranks of other prestigious green-themed Submariners such as the Rolex Kermit and the Rolex Hulk. It was nicknamed Starbucks because of its black dial and green bezel that evoked images of the iconic green Starbucks coffee chain logo. 

The design of the Starbucks seems to step away from Rolex’s otherwise conservative brand philosophy but stays faithful to the original model launched in 1953. It is 1mm bigger than its predecessor, the Ref. 116610LV (or the Hulk) and comes with a more vintage look and prominent classic proportions such as narrower horns.

Another unique feature of the Starbucks is that it is the first Sub equipped with a Calibre 3235. The Calibre 3235 comprises the Rolex Chronergy escapement with 15% improved efficiency. Starbucks continues to enrich the symbolism of Rolex today, ensuring that the brand’s cultural value continues to grow. 

Whether it’s your first investment or an epic addition to your collection, Starbucks Ref. 126610LV is an elevated emblem of ambition for the Everyman across the planet. Since it has been built to the highest possible standard of design and functionality, diving professionals will also find it extremely useful.

Rolex Kermit vs Starbucks

The Rolex Kermit was the first generation of the green diver’s watch, which premiered in 2003 to mark the 50th anniversary of the Submariner collection. Starbucks Ref. 126610LV, on the other hand, is the third generation. The release of the Starbucks was quite significant because Rolex completely redesigned the Submariner collection at the same time. 

The watch still featured a green bezel, but there was something “extra” about it, thanks to an upgrade in size, bezel material, and movement. Collectors have since been divided on whether it should go by the nickname ‘Kermit 2.0’ or ‘Cermit’ since it comes in the same colorway as the original Kermit and shares almost the same features.

What are the differences between these two icons? Is the Starbucks really just a reissue of the legendary Kermit Sub? Read on as we detail the variations of these two collectibles.

Appearance

Case

For several decades, the Submariner has measured 40mm in diameter. The Rolex Kermit 16610LV followed suit and came in a 904L stainless steel case (or Oyster Steel) that retained its predecessors’ 40mm diameter and 20mm lug width. 

The case of the Starbucks 126610LV, on the other hand, has been increased by 1mm and features more tapered lugs, which appear thinner and more angled. The lug width has also been increased from 20mm to 21mm, though the height of both watches remains practically the same, around 12.5mm.

Aesthetically, the Starbucks Sub is slightly more elegant, especially when you discover that even the crown guards have been redesigned and are more angled and symmetrical, giving the watch more flow, more curves, and less bulk.

The similarities would be that both cases are finished with brushed surfaces and polished sides and come with a Triplock crown, sapphire crystal, and screwed case back. The sapphire crystal of the Starbucks 126610LV, however, features an anti-reflective coating on the inner side, while the Kermit 16610LV does not.

Again for both watches, the construction, execution, and finishing are on par with all Rolex models. They are also both water resistant to 300 meters or 1,000ft.

The Dial and Bezel

Framing the dial of both watches is a classic unidirectional diving bezel with easy-to-read markers and a 60-click motion. The difference, however, is that the  Kermit 16610LV has a green aluminum bezel insert, while the Starbucks 126610LV features a bezel made of stainless steel with a knurled edge and Cerachrom insert. 

Cerachrom is manufactured by Rolex from an extremely hard ceramic material that is virtually impervious to scratches. It is unaffected by ultraviolet rays. As a result, the green color appears a bit more restrained and provides less contrast under certain light conditions compared to the Kermit 16610LV. 

The aluminum bezel of the Kermit features a more racing green color, like the character it’s nicknamed after. There isn’t a lot of noticeable difference between the dials. The Maxi-Dial layout retains the same design with oversized markers largely filled with blue-emitting Chromalight. However, the hands seem to have been reworked just a little bit. 

The minute hand now has a wider luminescent insert, and unlike that of the 16610LV, it touches the minute track. The Mercedes hour hand also appears slightly wider, and the entire dial feels a bit more expanded due to the extra 1mm.

Lastly, the dial of the Starbucks features a small crown in between the “Swiss Made” text at 6 o’clock, while the Kermit omits this.

Bracelet & Clasp

Rolex knows more than any other watch brand in the world not to change a proven recipe. That said, both watches are worn on the typical Rolex Oyster bracelet. The perfectly integrated 3-link bracelet is fully brushed on its flat surfaces while the sides are polished.

Since the lug width of the Starbucks has been increased by 1mm (and is now 21mm), its entire profile, from lugs to clasp, has also been redesigned. The larger bracelet visually reduces the increase in the case size, but the larger clasp (which is also one additional millimeter compared to the Kermit) doesn’t look as elegant as the compact clasp on the Kermit.

Unlike the Kermit, the Starbucks bracelet also doesn’t feel too tapered at the buckle, which is characteristic of older Rolex Submariners.

Movements

The major difference between the Starbucks and Kermit isn’t visual but mechanical. The Kermit 16610LV is powered by the reliable Calibre 3135, an automatic movement first introduced in 1988. The workhorse movement quickly became Rolex’s main movement and appeared in most Rolex date models before 2015. 

It is COSC-certified as a Superlative Chronometer with 31 jewels and is powered by a bidirectional rotor. It also features a balance wheel made of glucydur and a Parachrom hairspring, which allows better resistance to shocks and temperature variations. The Calibre 3135 offers a frequency of 28.800 vph and displays center seconds, hours, minutes, and date at 3 o’clock.

The Starbucks 126610LV, on the other hand, is powered by a movement that could be called every watchmaker’s dream; Rolex’s Calibre 3235. The movement was officially released at Baselworld 2015 and is at the forefront of watchmaking technology with a whopping 14 patents.

The COSC-certified has a longer power reserve when compared to its predecessor, the Calibre 3135– 70 hours vs. 48 hours (almost 50 percent bump). The focus of the Calibre 3235 is to offer significant improvements in terms of precision, reliability, and resistance to shocks and magnetic fields. 

The accuracy of the Kermit’s Calibre 3135  falls between -4/+6 seconds per day, while that of the Calibre 3235 is of the order of -2 /+2 seconds per day. This rating is more than twice the required official chronometer accuracy.

The Rolex-patented blue Parachrom hairspring is still present in the Calibre 3235; however, it has been updated and tweaked, making it 10 times more precise than traditional hairsprings in case of shocks.

Price & Availability

At the time of launch, the Kermit retailed for around $5,000. However, production ceased in 2010 and so if you’re looking to own the Kermit ref. 16610LV, the pre-owned market, is the only viable route.

Even though there wasn’t an immediate jump in price after its discontinuation, the popularity of the Submariner Kermit made it appreciate in the collector’s market over the years. Prices for a pre-owned Submariner Kermit 16610LV in good condition start from approximately $15,500 in the second-hand online marketplace. 

The Starbucks 126610LV, on the other hand, has been gracing the shelves of official retailers since 2020 and is available for purchase only on those shelves. I say this because you can’t buy a Rolex watch directly via the brand’s website. There is a list of their official jewelers where you can (and should) purchase a Rolex with guaranteed authenticity.

The average price for a new Starbucks 126610LV is $18,495, and it is covered by the official Rolex international warranty for five years.

Value Retention & Investment

Every watch connoisseur knows that Rolex watches hold their value better than most high-end brands of luxury watches. The Kermit was produced between 2003 and 2010, and since Rolex is not producing any new model, the resale value of the Ref. 16610LV has escalated in the secondhand market. 

The absolutely collectible watch can be seen on marketplaces selling for as high as $23,000 (over four times its original price) and enjoys an ever-growing demand on the gray market. The limited availability of the watch also means that there is an investment opportunity here, as the huge surge in popularity doesn’t seem to be declining anytime soon. 

The Starbucks will also retain its value for generations to come, provided you protect it from unnecessary wear-and-tear and keep the original box, papers, and accessories intact. If we compare the value retention of the Kermit vs. Starbucks, the green anniversary timepiece certainly has more resale value and is a better investment option due to its relative scarcity. 

Rare and hard-to-find timepieces always attract the highest bids at the auction, but if, at any stage, Rolex decides to discontinue the Starbucks, its price in the secondary market will skyrocket.

Conclusion

While the Kermit and Starbucks are equal in terms of quality, execution, assembly, and finishing, the Kermit will always remain the iconic 50th-anniversary model. The magic of the Kermit has earned it a cult status, and even though the small tweaks on the Starbucks do make a major difference, the  Kermit remains the more desirable watch.

That said, it will go down in history as the first legendary green Sub and will remain highly sought after among collectors.

Let’s delve into the legendary wristwatch collection of one of the great contemporary maestros of melody, John Mayer, and unveil the Rolex timepieces that make up a good chunk of Mayer’s personal treasure trove. Rolex, the paragon of precision and elegance, has enthralled watch connoisseurs for over a century with its unrivaled craftsmanship and iconic designs. 

From the iconic Submariner’s aquatic allure to the bold and racy precision of the Daytona, each Rolex exudes a symphony of horological perfection, and John’s selection is certainly the cream of the crop.

A Guitar Man and His Watches – John Mayer’s Rolex Obsession

In a world where rhythm and harmony meet, we find the enigmatic figure of John Mayer, a virtuoso both on stage and in the world of timekeeping. Revered for his soul-stirring guitar riffs, Mayer has built an esteemed reputation as a connoisseur of exquisite timepieces, particularly Rolexes. 

A watch guy with a penchant for hard-to-obtain pieces, he has amassed a collection that rivals any, both in value and rarity. He’s been collecting for years and has multiple watches outside of his vast Rolex cache. But it is known that his heart lies with the Swiss giant, as he most often wears and discusses his favorite Rolex pieces, be they new or vintage.

Mayer’s devotion to watch culture is profoundly inspiring. With him, a guitar and a Rolex become extensions of his artistry – representations of two very different worlds that unite in the hands of an unlikely figure.

John Mayer Rolex Daytona Collection

Enter the world of high-octane elegance with John Mayer’s captivating collection of Daytonas. The Daytona, a revered icon in the realm of motorsport-inspired timepieces, has a host of characteristics that would resonate with the discerning eye of an artist. 

With its chronograph functionality, tachymeter scale, and bold yet beloved pushers, the Daytona exudes an air of refinement that mirrors Mayer’s approach to his craft.

1. Rolex Daytona 116500

Among the timekeeping treasures cherished by Mayer is the illustrious Rolex Daytona 116500. Originating in 1963, the Daytona has more than earned its place as an iconic timepiece. Mayer has been frequently spotted with the highly coveted Rolex Daytona Ref. 116500LN, a modern masterpiece defined by its hardy, tool-centric minimalism. 

Retailing for roughly $14,550, this modern classic is defined by its black ceramic bezel, which encircles a stark white dial for maximum contrast. There’s something very modest about the 116500LN, a characteristic that makes the watch universally wearable, which is perhaps why it’s so coveted by Rolex enthusiasts, Mayer included.

2. Rolex Daytona Yellow Gold Rainbow 116598RBOW

Not for everyone, the mesmerizing Rolex Daytona Yellow Gold Rainbow 116598RBOW is an antidote to the modesty of the 116500. While some may dismiss it as ostentatious or garish, Mayer skillfully persuades us to appreciate its splendor.

He emphasizes the rarity of this timepiece, not only in terms of its physical attributes but also the creative ingenuity behind its design. 

Available on aftermarket platforms for around $200,000, this exquisite watch surpasses opulence, embracing the paradigm of exceptional craftsmanship and discerning collectability. It takes some attitude to wear a watch with multicolored, precious stone inserts, so it’s no surprise that Mayer flaunts his gregarious alter-ego with the help of the rainbow bezel.

3. Rolex Daytona White Gold Rainbow 116599RBOW

In the realm of extraordinary timepieces, John Mayer possesses at least one true gem that regularly ignites the passions of watch collectors and horologists. The Rolex Daytona White Gold Rainbow 116599RBOW is no exception.

While the alternative metal variants often garner more recognition, Mayer’s acquisition of the white gold iteration sets him apart from other collectors in his league, showcasing a sense of taste that transcends mere monetary value. 

Like the previous piece, this Daytona boasts a bezel adorned with a vibrant spectrum of rainbow gemstones. Its scarcity enhances its allure, making it a highly-desired ticker among collectors. Presently, this horological masterpiece can be found on the secondary market at an approximate price of $245,000. Few things say ‘wealthy and stylish’ like white gold, and Mayer really shows his colors with this one.

4. Rolex Daytona 116508 Yellow Gold Green Dial

John Mayer’s keen eye for somewhat obscure watches unveils timepieces with untapped grail potential – a talent that hasn’t gone unnoticed by the Rolex community. A fine example of this knack is the Rolex Daytona 116508 Yellow Gold Green Dial, which Mayer astutely recognized ahead of its subsequent rise to super-watch status.

In fact, it could be said that Mayer’s affinity for the 116508 is what prompted its sharp rise in popularity – after Mayer showcased this emerald-hued masterpiece on Hodinkee, its desirability and value skyrocketed. 

Distinguished by its captivating ‘Christmas’ green dial shade with a sunburst finish, this Daytona stands apart from its black and champagne-dialed counterparts, boasting a unique visage seldom seen on Rolex watches.

The Daytona 116508 Yellow Gold Green Dial epitomizes Mayer’s ability to spot extraordinary timepieces and elevate them to coveted status among discerning collectors, proving that he’s much more than just a good songwriter.

5. Rolex Daytona 116509 White Gold Blue Dial

This is another rather understated piece (as far as Daytonas go) in Mayer’s collection, and in many ways, it’s the lamb to the 116508’s lion. Officially listed by Rolex at $37,450, this piece showcases the harmonious fusion of bright yet cool colors and functional technicality.

I’m assuming Mayer has a fairly good relationship with Rolex at this point, enabling him to secure these gems at their retail price. Someone with Mayer’s insight doesn’t get scalped on a Rolex. 

The Daytona 116509 White Gold Blue Dial is a symphony of sophistication, and although I love the green dial, something about the way the silver and blue hues work together makes the sunburst finish on this piece all the more satisfying to the eye. That said, the crown guard and pushers do appear slightly larger in white gold than in yellow gold (although they’re not), so if you’re a stickler for detail, bear that in mind.

6. Rolex Daytona Custom Bamford & Sons Blacked Out

Unlike many purists, Mayer isn’t averse to a bit of customization. The remarkable Rolex Daytona Custom Bamford & Sons Blacked Out stands as a testament to this. In fact, Mayer received one of the final Rolex mods made by the London customizer before they were purchased by LMVH and directed to work exclusively on their new boss’s brands, of which Rolex isn’t one. 

A PVD blackout case and strap are brought to life by the baby blue dial which it encases. It’s not really my style, but one has to appreciate the unique nature and color combination of this weirdly wonderful watch.

7. Rolex Daytona Custom Mickey Mouse

Drawing on his passion for vintage timepieces and the irresistible allure of the legendary Rolex Oyster Date Mickey Mouse Dial, John Mayer embarked on a personal design venture to create a modern rendition of this elusive watch.

On the Rolex ref. 116520, the black PVD-coated Daytona preserves all its functional prowess, thanks to the calibre 4130 movement, while flaunting a distinctive portrait of Disney’s beloved mouse on its chronograph dial. 

The watch comes with both a black and a white face, and Mayer almost certainly has at least one of each, given that this is well and truly his brainchild. While many might find the idea of a Mickey Mouse Daytona somewhat infantile, there’s something to be said about the endlessly playful (albeit unlikely) combination of these two pieces of horological culture.

8. Rolex Daytona 6263 Non-Paul Newman Black Dial

Otherwise known as the ‘Small Red’, the 6263 is a basic watch in many ways. Ostensibly devoid of any flair or grandeur, the non-Paul Newman 6263 might well escape the gaze of undiscerning eyes. One may be surprised to find that this ticker, defined by a red pop of lettering on the dial that proclaims its lineage, is one of the most important watches ever made. 

“It’s the only vintage Daytona you’ll ever need”, is what Mayer had to say about this modest Rolex on his first Talking Watches appearance. A black dial with white sub-dials, a flat black bezel, and screw-down pushers, all set upon a steel case, define the 6263’s aesthetic. It’s a watch made to wear, not to show, and I think that’s fundamental to its enduring spirit.

9. Rolex Daytona Yellow Gold Gold 6263 Sigma Dial

This distinctive variation of the Daytona dial, recognized by collectors as a Sigma dial, showcases two lowercase Greek Sigma letters (σ) flanking the esteemed “T SWISS MADE T” signature positioned below the 6 o’clock marker. The Sigma symbols indicate the use of lustrous solid gold for the hour markers, be it white gold or yellow gold, depending on the specific version of the reference 6263 Daytona. 

Though a seemingly subtle detail, these coveted Sigma dials, gracing various Rolex models from the early 1970s to the latter part of the decade, command a premium on the vintage market. Mayer’s Yellow Gold 6263 Sigma Dial is an iconic watch of its time and one whose vintage appeal and rarity still enflames the passions of collectors to this day.

10. Rolex Daytona Yellow Gold 6263 Paul Newman Dial

Stop me if you’ve heard this one before – the Paul Newman Daytona is practically an institution that carried the Rolex brand over many years. A truly legendary timepiece, the Yellow Gold 6263 with its revered Paul Newman dial is a clear indication (if you still needed one) of Mayer’s affinity for vintage Rolex Daytonas. 

These exceptional timepieces, coveted by collectors, possess the potential to command staggering million-dollar prices at auction, given that they speak for a revelation in watchmaking history, as well as for a specific era of style and panache. Among Mayer’s treasures, the gold Rolex Daytona Ref. 6263 adorned with a Newman-style dial holds a special place. 

A similar masterpiece with a slightly different dial fetched a staggering $4,000,000 at a prestigious Phillips auction in 2017. Considering the current fervor within the watch market, one can only fathom that the price has ascended even further since.

11. Rolex Daytona Steel 6263 Paul Newman Dial

The inclusion of a steel Paul Newman model showcases Mayer’s true admiration for the legendary Newman Rolex Daytona. It says a lot that Mayer would be willing to step away from his affinity for gold Daytonas to complete his Newman collection with this simple steel piece. To further emulate the spirit of the legendary Newman, or perhaps to pay homage to it, Mayer has this timepiece on a bund strap, just as the watch’s namesake did. 

I personally love a steel watch – it’s unpretentious in every way, giving itself over to the practical workings of the piece rather than leaning on lofty aesthetics and precious materials. There’s something admirable about a collector who acknowledges a watch for its cultural status as opposed to its weight in gold.

12. Rolex Daytona 6264 Paul Newman Panda

The Paul Newman Panda is certainly a favorite in the Newman line of Rolexes – Panda dials have, for their striking contrast, become beloved by watch enthusiasts the world over, whether said enthusiasts love actual panda bears or not. 

Crafted for a fleeting moment between 1970 and 1971, this Ref. 6264 timepiece is certainly a rarity, as evidenced by a handful of exceptional sales, with prices reaching almost $300,000 in late 2018. Again, it’s hard to say whether Mayer paid anything close to 300k for his Newman Panda, but it’s likely that whatever he spent, he’s a very happy man with this in his watch box.

13. Rolex Daytona 6264 Pulsation Dial

Pulsation dials, an elusive breed, are as scarce as hen’s teeth (hens don’t have teeth). According to esteemed experts such as Hodinkee founder Ben Clymer, a mere handful of verified examples exist in the world, possibly numbering around 8 or 10.

With a brushed silver dial and pitch-black sub-dials, this smaller Daytona is an absolute marvel of its class. It gets its name from the pulsation dial on the outer track of the face, which was theoretically used by doctors to measure heartbeats.

The absurd value of these timepieces is unquestionable – they’re estimated to fetch nearly a million dollars or more at auction. Mayer’s 6264 Pulsation dial variant is in fantastic condition and, thus, is poised to captivate collectors and potentially surpass that value if and when he ever decides to sell it.

14. Rolex Daytona 6265 Omani Khanjar 

It could be said that John Mayer’s prized possession, among his Daytona collection at least, is his 6265 Omani Khanjar. A standard Ref. 6265 commands a hefty estimate of $300,000 to $500,000 at auctions, and Mayer’s watch, which bears the green, “kinda pot-leafy” crossed-sabers symbol at the 6 o’clock mark, set into the lower white sub-dial, would likely go for the same. 

This distinctive mark significantly enhances the value of the watch, solidifying its desirability among collectors. With Mayer’s penchant for acquiring extraordinary timepieces, it’s no wonder he, too, has fallen for Rolex’s Arabic iterations, as the next item on the list confirms…

15. Rolex Daytona 6265 United Arab Emirates Desert Eagle Coat of Arms

The craziest thing about the 6265 United Arab Emirates Desert Eagle Coat of Arms is the fact that it doesn’t say Rolex anywhere on the dial, which is a testament to the truly custom nature of this model. In a tale of timeless prestige, His Highness Shaikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, the esteemed Defence Minister of the UAE in the 1970s, personally commissioned a masterpiece. 

The Rolex Daytona Ref. 6263 emerged, adorned with the emblem of the UAE, the Quraysh Hawk. Only a select few bear this distinguished quality. Mayer’s acquisition is the updated 6265 iteration, a more modern but equally extraordinary timepiece.

16. Rolex Daytona 6269

Considered the progenitor of the illustrious “rainbow” lineage, this Daytona boasts a bezel and dial bedecked with a symphony of dazzling diamonds. Its rarity is unquestionable, with only a handful of these marvels on the wrists of fortunate collectors. It’s a flashy piece, no doubt, but with its unisex appeal and classic shape, this 6269 is more pared-back than Mayer’s Rainbow Daytonas in almost every way.

17. Rolex Daytona 6270

In the depths of rarity lies the remarkable Rolex Daytona 6270, a cherished sibling to the esteemed 6269. This horological gem, adorned with undeniable allure, resides within the realm of utmost scarcity. In 2014, Christie’s astounded the watch world by auctioning one of these elusive treasures for an astonishing CHF 905,000. 

Made for the Sultan of Oman, it is said that only 6 of these watches exist and that they are likely the most expensive items ever produced by Rolex, with baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel and a pavé-set diamond dial. This is likely the most bonkers timepiece on this list as far as true, unabated luxury goes.

John Mayer Rolex Submariner Collection

The Submariner, arguably the most iconic and genre-defining dive watch ever made, epitomizes the fusion of form and function. With its iconic design, the Submariner strikes a chord with Mayer’s affinity for practical aesthetics and easy-wearing watches.

1. Rolex Submariner 1680 COMEX

Discussed in Mayer’s first Talking Watches episode, this COMEX Sub is a quirky timepiece in its class for one very particular reason. Crafted exclusively for the renowned French dive company COMEX, the ref. 1680, unlike its counterparts, is devoid of a helium escape valve (an essential feature on dive watches) and was, therefore, more of a ‘tester’ than a watch manufactured for the market. 

Perhaps this COMEX never made it into the water, but it became the prized possession of Comex office personnel, who shared among them the few of these made. It’s a simple watch – steel case, black bezel, black dial with lume indices, and a bold white COMEX logo sitting above the six o’clock mark. John’s own 1680 is, of course, in amazing condition.

2. Rolex Submariner 5514 COMEX

As if one COMEX Sub isn’t enough, Mayer owns two of these vintage divers. His second is the Rolex Submariner Comex ref. 5514. At first glance, it resembles the iconic ref. 5513, exhibiting the very same matte dial and a subtly weathered grey bezel. However, upon closer inspection, a small yet significant detail emerges—the discreet presence of a helium escape valve discreetly nestled on its side. 

This extraordinary model, shrouded in exclusivity, was reserved solely for the esteemed members of COMEX, eluding the grasp of the public, similar to the 1680, although it lacks the bold COMEX logo that defines the dial of its predecessor.

3. Rolex Submariner 6200

This is it. Perhaps the most important Submariner ever built by Rolex, this watch laid the groundwork for a horological icon. The Rolex Submariner ref. 6200 predates the revered Submariner name. Made on a run of 300 pieces in 1954, the 6200 is unique in a few ways; it doesn’t say ‘Submariner’ anywhere on the watch, it’s got an Explorer-type dial, and it was the first Submariner to have Mercedes-style hands. 

It’s certainly a grail watch for many collectors, as evidenced by its history at auction – Phillips sold one of these illustrious specimens in October 2017 for a staggering $579,000. An absolute gem in John Mayer’s remarkable collection, his 6200 is a genuinely impressive timepiece, despite its antiquated look.

4. Rolex “MilSub” Submariner Ref. 5517

The Rolex ‘MilSub’ Submariner Ref. 5517 is a watch built for submerged military applications. Although John Mayer is unlikely to be doing any underwater ambushes anytime soon, the 5517 is a more-than-worthy inclusion in his collection, given its singular history and build. Fixed spring bars, a satin case finish, a ’T’ dial, sword hands, and a continuously graded bezel come together to make this timepiece of note. 

It’s a hard-wearing, rugged piece, if ever there was one, and Mayer’s own 5517 shows all the glorious signs of wear you’d expect to see on a vintage military watch. While the MilSub is well-known amongst enthusiasts, its scarcity elevates it to mythical proportions – it’s said that only 1200 MilSubs were crafted by Rolex, with a mere 180 believed to still be in circulation.

5. Rolex Submariner 116619

The only non-vintage Submariner on this list is the well-renowned Rolex ‘Smurf’, a modern piece that yells ‘I’m casual and sporty’ everywhere it goes. Mayer’s Smurf has a solid 18k white gold case and bracelet, a theme that carries through a few of his Daytonas, as I’m sure you’ve noticed. In fact, the 116619 was the first Rolex Submariner to come in all-white gold, a peculiarity that betrays Mayer’s interest in this reference. 

Yet, it’s not just the precious metal that defines the Smurf but the enchanting interplay of colors from which it gets its nickname. The blue Cerachrom bezel and lacquered blue dial bestow upon it an irresistibly easy-going charm. The Smurf Submariner is a harmonious fusion of sophistication and playfulness, effortlessly capturing attention and thus leaving an indelible mark on the world of horology.

John Mayer Rolex GMT Master II Collection

As an artist who is endlessly on tour, thus constantly traversing time zones, Mayer finds solace in the GMT Master II’s ability to seamlessly adapt to his jet-setting lifestyle. Its iconic rotatable bezel, striking dial variations, and robust construction render the GMT Master II victim to its owner’s movements across borders – it’s a sturdy, reliable, and eye-catching watch that does the job in style.

1. Rolex GMT Master II “Batman” 116710BLNR

The 126710BLNR, affectionately known as the ‘Batman’, broke the mold (and the market) when it was released in 2013. The moniker was quickly applied to the watch by adoring Rolex fanatics as it perfectly describes its captivating blue and black bezel, reminiscent of the iconic colors of DC Comics’ favorite dark hero. The Batman was a huge success as it was the first watch of its kind (with a split-tone Cerachrom bezel) to be released by Rolex. 

Although a newer version is available on a Jubilee bracelet, Mayer opts for the simplicity of the Oyster bracelet, which I totally get – it’s a proud watch on humble shackles, and with its unstoppable 3186 movement, there’s little chance of it letting Mayer down while he’s playing sets away from home.

2. Rolex GMT Master II “Pepsi” White Gold Black Dial 116719BLRO

A groundbreaking creation, this white gold wonder marks the first Pepsi model crafted from precious metal. Its allure is further enhanced by noteworthy upgrades, including the Cerachrom ceramic bezel, replacing the previous aluminum material. The addition of the Triplock waterproofing system ensures unparalleled aqueous protection, while the Maxi Dial boasts larger lume plots, which emboldens the dial in a significant manner. 

Now discontinued, the 116719BLRO commands a princely sum of approximately $42,000 on the thriving secondary market. Much like the Batman, this piece is playful yet austere, with its black face acting as a sort of grounding influence to the lively bezel.

3. Rolex GMT Master II Black Bezel 116710LN

Although it may be the most approachable of Mayer’s watches due to its affordability and monotone design, the 116710LN is a highly sought-after member of the GMT Master II family. With a stainless steel case, black-on-black bezel and dial, and an easy-wearing 40mm case, the 116710LN is a masterclass in design moderation. Rolex could have done a lot more here if they didn’t know that few things are more timeless than the combination of black and silver. 

Don’t let this watch fool you, though – it represents the final iteration of the GMT-Master II series to showcase a monochromatic bezel insert, bidding adieu to an era of singular allure and making it a special timepiece to own. Though discontinued in 2018, it’s still fawned over on the aftermarket, unsurprisingly. This may be my favorite watch of Mayer’s, if only for its chaste character.

4. Rolex GMT Master II Gold 116718LN

Let’s go out with a bang – the final item in John Mayer’s seemingly endless Rolex collection is the opulent yellow gold Rolex GMT Master II Gold 116718LN, a piece that champions Mayer’s belief that the GMT is Rolex’s greatest movement. This golden marvel, adorned with a striking black dial, exudes an air of refined sophistication. 

As Rolex currently refrains from offering a yellow gold GMT, the yellow gold GMT-Master II commands attention, particularly as it was discontinued in 2019. With this, Mayer yet again proves that every one of his timepieces is an item of special magnificence and (somewhat) unattainable rarity.

The Finish Line

It almost goes without saying at this point that Mayer’s Rolex selection is a sight to behold. One which showcases his desire to “take something from a high-style culture and adopt it into your own culture”. 

Each Rolex, with its definitive characteristics and precision craftsmanship, serves as an extension of Mayer’s musical virtuosity. Through his collection, Mayer reminds us that time is not merely a ticking of seconds but a rhythmic journey where art and engineering intertwine. 

His Rolex ensemble stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of horological mastery and the unwavering pursuit of perfection – a harmonious ode to the beauty of time, music, and the symbiotic relationship between the two.