Some models rise above the rest in the horological world to achieve iconic status. Born from an unlikely collaboration between Rolex and Zenith, the Zenith-powered Daytona 165xx series is a legendary branch in the Daytona family that marked a significant evolution in the model’s history.
Its commercial success is partly due to its development into a “brand within a brand”. Dedicated Daytona collectors often set themselves apart from the broader group of Rolex enthusiasts. A ridiculous example of this phenomenon was demonstrated by the record-setting sale of Paul Newman’s own Rolex Daytona to an anonymous bidder for over $17 million.
But that watch was from the first generation of Daytonas. Soon after, the brand was completely reformed by the Zenith-powered second generation, which brought many significant upgrades besides its movement. The rarity of the short production run and the iconic characteristics described within this article made the Rolex Zenith Daytona the ultimate racing icon.
About the Rolex Zenith Daytona
This particular model marks a significant turning point in the history of the Daytona series. It marks the first Rolex Daytona model that featured an automatic movement instead of the original hand-winding one. And this movement was the famous Zenith El-Primero movement.
This caliber wasn’t made in-house by Rolex; however, it had heavy modifications that distinguished it from the original construction. Over the Zenith Daytona’s limited production run, a stainless steel, an 18k yellow gold version, and a combination of both were also featured.
History of the Rolex Zenith Daytona
Rolex’s Daytona collection, named after the famous Daytona Beach raceway in Florida, was launched in 1963. It quickly gained acclaim for its precision and reliability in motorsport timing.
The first generation of Rolex’s racing line had a hand-winding mechanical movement when it was manufactured until one day, in 1988, the brand released the very first automatic Daytona. It was powered by a modified Zenith El-Primero movement.
Rolex drastically altered the original high-beat El Primero, reducing its frequency from 36,000 vibrations per hour to a more standard 28,800. Together with some additional changes, this collaboration resulted in the Rolex Calibre 4030.
The watch created has started a new avalanche of desirability and popularity for the Daytona collection. The Zenith movements were only featured until 2000, at which point Rolex unveiled its in-house caliber 4130. New Daytona models from then on only featured the caliber 4130.
The Rolex Zenith Daytona Caliber 4030
The Zenith “El Primero” movement was known for its high-beat frequency, date function, and integrated automatic chronograph design. Then Rolex came along and chose to use this movement for the Daytona after making several changes to it:
Beat Rate
As mentioned earlier, Rolex reduced the frequency from 36,000 vibrations per hour to 28,800 vibrations per hour. Thus, they have managed to increase the longevity and reliability of the movement.
Date Function Removal
The Zenith El Primero movement originally included a date function. Rolex removed this feature to keep Daytona’s design clean and focused on the chronograph function.
Chronograph Modification
Rolex completely redesigned the chronograph mechanism. They aimed to increase the durability of the watch while simplifying the user experience with these changes.
The original El Primero used a lateral clutch engagement system for the chronograph function (Imagine two gears sitting side by side on a table. When you want to engage the chronograph, you push one gear into the other, meshing their teeth together. This starts the chronograph mechanism).
In contrast, Rolex modified it to a vertical clutch system (imagine stacking those two gears one on top of the other, so when you engage the chronograph, you’re pressing down the top gear onto the bottom one. This system generally allows for a smoother start without the jump seen in lateral clutches).
This change reduced wear on the mechanism when the chronograph was engaged for extended periods of time and improved its accuracy at the same time.
Balance and Hairspring
Rolex replaced the Zenith’s balance wheel (the wheel that oscillates back and forth, it’s responsible for keeping time in the watch) and hairspring (makes the balance wheel swing back and forth at a consistent rate) with its own, featuring Microstella regulating nuts (adjustable weights on the balance wheel that Rolex uses to fine-tune the accuracy of the watch) and a Breguet overcoil (a specific design of the hairspring, that helps the balance wheel swing more consistently and improves the watch’s accuracy), respectively. This allowed for more accurate adjustments and better resistance to temperature variations and shocks.
Escapement
The escapement in a watch transfers energy to the timekeeping element (the balance wheel) and ensures the timepiece keeps time accurately. It’s the heart of the watch. It involves two main components: the escape wheel (toothed wheel driven by the watch’s mainspring) and the pallet fork (a lever with two jeweled ‘pallets’ that interact with the teeth of the escape wheel).
In the original Zenith El Primero movement, a ‘Swiss lever’ escapement was used. However, Rolex decided to replace this with their own in-house design, known as the ‘Chronergy’ escapement, when they adopted the El Primero movement for the Daytona. The Chronergy escapement is an improved version of the Swiss lever escapement with modifications to the escape wheel and pallet fork that increase efficiency and reduce energy consumption.
Finishing and Decoration
When Rolex acquired the Zenith El Primero movements to use in their Daytona watches, they applied their unique aesthetic standards before putting them into production, such as Engraving, Polishing, and Gold Plating.
These modifications transformed the high-beat El Primero into the Caliber 4030, a movement that matched Rolex’s standards at the time. They’ve managed to improve the precision, reliability, and longevity of the movement before putting it onto the production line. It was these significant changes that helped elevate the Daytona’s status.
Caliber 4030 vs Caliber 4130: What Changes Did Rolex Make For Its In-House Movement?
The Caliber 4130 is the first movement entirely developed and manufactured in-house by Rolex, which replaced the Zenith-based Caliber 4030. It features a longer power reserve of 72 hours. It also has a similar vertical clutch mechanism to its predecessor for the chronograph function.
However, the 4130 was the first Rolex caliber to introduce the brand’s “Parachrom Bleu” hairspring (that was unaffected by magnetic fields and was much more shock-resistant).
Rolex Zenith Daytona Watch Models
Rolex Zenith Daytona 16520
The 16520 is the stainless steel Zenith Daytona. Its material provides a sporty aesthetic over the other two models. It launched with either a black or a white dial option. Later on, a silver dial and an exotic “Daytona Paul Newman” dial also became available. The bezel on this specific watch is made out of stainless steel with an engraved tachymeter scale.
Rolex Zenith Daytona 16523
The 16520 is a combination of the stainless steel and the yellow-gold Zenith Daytona. The case and bracelet have a two-tone design, with the central links of the bracelet in gold. It featured the exact same dial options as the 16520 stainless steel model. The bezel on this specific watch is made out of 18k yellow gold, with a similar engraved tachymeter scale.
Rolex Zenith Daytona 16528
The 16520 is the 18k yellow gold Zenith Daytona. Its material gives it a luxurious and prestigious appearance. It featured the exact same dial options as the other two models. The bezel on this specific watch is also made of 18k yellow gold.
What’s Different About the Rolex Zenith Daytona Dial?
Both the Caliber 4030 and the Caliber 4130 Daytona models have a trio of subsidiary dials. Although these dials are positioned in a similar way, they line up in different order at the 3, 6, and 9-hour mark.
The Caliber 4130 models have the running seconds dial at 6 o’clock, while the 12-hour counter at the 9 o’clock position. The Zenith Daytona models have it switched, meaning the 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock and the running seconds dial at the 9 o’clock position.
Both watches have their 30-minute counter at the 6 o’clock position. These subsidiary dials sit closer to each other on the Zenith-powered model, leaning more to the center compared to later models.
The Zenith Daytona also has a thinner set of luminated markers, making it harder to read in low-light conditions. Finally, the ref. 16520 stainless-steel version of the Zenith-powered Daytona uses a different color for its subdial rings on both the black and the white dial version.
How Difficult Is It to Get Your Hands on a Rolex Zenith Daytona?
This watch model has developed a significant following among collectors, and as it ages, interest in it only continues to grow. The Daytona, in general, is often described as a brand within a brand, with its own dedicated group of collectors.
The Zenith-powered Daytona is no exception, and it has appreciated steeply in value over time, especially when new versions of the Rolex Daytona are released. Introduced as the first self-winding chronograph from Rolex, it marked a significant leap in the brand’s technical prowess.
This watch model also has a reputation for being hard to get a hold of from authorized dealers. Because of this, obtaining one has always been something of a “dark art.”
In addition, the Zenith-powered Daytona has various significant variations in the dial and bezels, which makes it even more appealing to collectors. People who dedicate their lives to obtaining the most iconic watches will always appreciate unique details on a timepiece, such as the different versions of the Zenith Daytona from MK1 to MK5.
To conclude, it’s very difficult to get your hands on a Zenith-powered Rolex Daytona. As its market price keeps growing over time, your competition will not only consist of Rolex enthusiasts but big-money investors as well.
Conclusion
While the Zenith Daytonas are no longer in production, their influence on the horological world remains unchanged. Their legacy extends further than the mechanical watch industry. These timepieces managed to form a worldwide community of racing watch enthusiasts within the Rolex brand. As the watch is likely to keep appreciating in the future, investors and motorsport fans will retain constant competition to get their hands on one.
In the realm of Rolex, few timepieces embody the spirit of adventure quite like the Explorers. With a heritage steeped in exploration and innovation, these iconic wristwatches have become veritable symbols of resilience and precision.
From their early days as tool watches, the Rolex Explorers have evolved and adapted, encapsulating the essence of discovery.
Join us on a captivating voyage as we delve into the fascinating history, compare the legendary Explorer I and Explorer II, and reveal the most notable pieces of this remarkable collection – the 10 best models that have left an indelible mark on the landscape of timekeeping.
Prepare to ignite your passion for horological exploration as we unlock the captivating tales of these timepieces beyond the boundaries of ordinary wristwear.
About the Rolex Explorer
The Rolex Explorer is a renowned collection of professional sports watches that was first introduced in 1953. Designed with the needs of mountaineers and explorers in mind, the Explorer quickly gained popularity among adventurers and outdoor enthusiasts.
With its simple yet elegant design, robust construction, and accurate timekeeping, the Explorer has become a staple choice for individuals seeking a reliable timepiece. Despite its exceptional quality, the Rolex Explorer remains one of the more affordable options within the Rolex lineup, making it a favorite among collectors and enthusiasts.
History of the Rolex Explorer
The story of the Rolex Explorer began in 1952, a time when the summit of Mount Everest remained unconquered. Rolex, the renowned watchmaker, aimed to have their timepieces accompany climbers on their journey to the peak.
In that same year, Rolex provided the British climbers with large-size Oyster watches, which would later serve as prototypes for the future Explorer models. The successful ascent of Mount Everest in 1953 by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay solidified the Explorer’s association with exploration and durability in extreme conditions.
Throughout its history, the Rolex Explorer has achieved notable milestones. The Explorer has been worn by esteemed characters and individuals such as James Bond, Neil Armstrong, and Buzz Aldrin, further cementing its status as a timepiece of choice for adventurers and celebrities alike.
As a result, the Rolex Explorer has gained popularity among collectors and investors due to its rich heritage and lasting appeal.
Rolex Explorer I vs Explorer II
Within the Explorer collection, there are two distinct model families: the Explorer I and the Explorer II. While both models share the Explorer name, they have key differences that set them apart.
The Rolex Explorer I is characterized by its classic and understated design. It features a clean dial with luminous and iconic “369” Arabic numerals and hands, providing excellent legibility. The Explorer I is known for its traditional 36mm stainless steel case, but it briefly appeared in a 39mm case and now exists in both 36 and 40mm versions.
On the other hand, the Rolex Explorer II takes a more rugged approach with its design. Introduced in 1971, the Explorer II was specifically designed for speleologists and cave explorers.
It features a larger 42mm case, dots and dashes for hour markers, and an additional 24-hour hand, which allows for tracking two timezones simultaneously. The Explorer II has evolved over the years, with the latest reference being the 226570, offering modern features and advancements while staying true to its roots.
Rolex Explorer Models
There have been at least 19 models (the list is not exhaustive) of the Rolex Explorer since 1953, 4 of which are currently still on the production lines of the Genevan factory.
Model
Production Years
Explorer 6150
1953 (Pre-explorer)
Explorer 6350
1953-1955
Explorer 5518/0
1962-1964
Explorer 6610
1955-1959
Explorer 1016/0
1960-1990
Explorer 5500
1958-1967
Explorer 1016 Space-Dweller
Uncertain
Explorer 6429 (Known as “Commando”, very rare)
Uncertain
Explorer II 1655/0
1971-1983
Explorer II 16550
1983-1990
Explorer 14270
1991-2001
Explorer 114270
2002-2010
Explorer II 16570
1989-2011
Explorer II 216570
2011-2021
Explorer 214270
2010-2021
Explorer II 226570
2021-
Explorer 124270
2021-
Explorer 124273
2021-
Explorer 224270
2023-
Prices and Values
Prices for Explorer I and II models in the current production range between $8,700 and $13,300.
Explorer II 226570, 42mm, stainless steel: $10,900
Explorer I 124270, 36mm, stainless steel: $8,150
Explorer I 124273 36mm, stainless steel & yellow gold: $13,300
Explorer I 224270, 40mm, stainless steel: $8,700
On the secondary market, the first 2 models trade for a premium on the retail price. Overall, Rolex Explorer models usually sell for between $4,700 and $18,600 (for a Rolex Explorer 1016) on the pre-owned market.
One of the most popular pre-owned Explorer is the 214270 reference, a 39mm edition whose first version (Mark 1) came with notoriously short hands as they hadn’t been adjusted up from the previous 36mm version.
An Understated Legacy
While the Explorer may not command the same attention and high prices at auction as some other Rolex models, its significance as a reliable tool watch cannot be understated. From its historical debuts to being associated with James Bond and its endorsement by renowned figures like Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin, the Explorer has garnered a reputation for its versatile elegance.
The newest Rolex Explorer is a faithful update with a larger 40mm case that has lovers of assertively sized sport watches rejoicing. What’s an even bigger change is that the Explorer now exists in two size options (36mm and 40mm).
The dial of the new Explorer has undergone a thoughtful revision, showcasing the “Explorer” name positioned near the top, aligning with the design choice of its smaller 36mm counterpart. This departure from the previous iteration, where the name was located at 6 o’clock on the 39mm version, adds a harmonious touch to the overall aesthetic.
It remains powered by Rolex’s robust 3230 self-winding movement with a 70-hour power reserve and comes fitted on a stainless steel Oyster bracelet. A combination of mostly brushed, and some polished surfaces give it the crisp and straightforward look I love in an everyday timepiece.
The new Rolex Explorer 40 sits at the top of decades of continuous improvements and refinements to the Explorer collection and, as such, embodies the very best of it.
Let’s look at the 2021 Explorer II. It’s got a few new features that make this 42mm sport watch even better than the previous model.
First and foremost, the star of the show is the new 3285 movement that beats at the heart of this timepiece. With an impressive power reserve of 70 hours, this watch keeps ticking even when you decide to take a break.
You can confidently leave it on your dresser for the entire weekend, knowing it will remain in perfect sync until you pick it up again on Monday. The bracelet and clasp have also been redesigned. The bracelet is now wider and more comfortable to wear, and the clasp has been updated with a new, more secure design.
Finally, the hour markers and hands now use new-generation Chromalight luminescent material. This material glows brighter and longer than previous luminescent materials, making it easier to read the time in low-light conditions. These evolutions make the 2021 Explorer II one of the most well-executed Explorer models to date.
When the Explorer 36 made its highly anticipated debut in 2022, it instantly captured the attention of watch enthusiasts, and it’s easy to see why!
One of the most notable features of this release is the return to a 36mm case size, a change that delighted many devoted followers of the Explorer II. The downsized case brings enhanced comfort to the wearer and broadens its appeal to those with petite wrists.
As an added bonus, the reduced dimensions allow the watch to seamlessly transition from an outdoor companion to an elegant dress watch, offering versatility for any occasion.
But the improvements don’t stop there. The new 3230 movement represents a significant upgrade over its predecessor. This movement boasts a longer power reserve of up to 70 hours, as well as greater accuracy. The size and versatility of the 124270 make it one of the most interesting Explorer watches out there.
4. Rolex Explorer II Black dial (ref. 226570)
Released along with the “Polar” white dial version in 2021, this black edition presents a surprising difference in its dial.
On the black dial of the Rolex Explorer II Black dial, the hour, minute, and 24-hour hands undergo a subtle yet impactful transformation. Crafted from precious white gold, these new hands elevate the design of the watch.
This thoughtful update harmoniously aligns the hands with the markers on the dial, creating a seamless and visually striking ensemble. The choice of white gold for the hands is not merely an aesthetic enhancement but a deliberate design decision.
The contrasting hues of the white gold hands against the black dial create an exquisite interplay of light and shadow. This only adds to the superior pedigree of the 226570 in the Explorer’s team.
5. Rolex Explorer 36 Two-Tone (ref. 124273)
The Rolex Explorer 36 Two-Tone emerges as a captivating rendition of the timeless Explorer 36 watch fusing stainless steel and yellow gold.
This audacious design choice sets it apart from the crowd, exuding an air of confidence and style. The contrasting combination of materials adds a touch of opulence to the timepiece, elevating its aesthetic appeal and making it a true statement piece.
As the focal point of the watch, the black dial exudes simplicity and elegance in equal measure. Its refined design serves as a captivating backdrop for the luminescent Chromalight material, ensuring optimal legibility in even the most dimly lit environments.
Combining a bolder yet elegant look and all the credentials of a time-tested model, the Two-Tone is an Explorer model that stands out.
6. Rolex Explorer 1016
The Rolex Explorer 1016 is a vintage Rolex watch that truly captures the essence of a tool watch. It stands out with distinct features, such as the iconic “369” font. But what makes it exceptional are its two records: it’s the longest-running 4-digit reference, reigning for an incredible 30 years, and it’s the final 4-digit reference in the Rolex catalog, last produced in 1989.
The design of the Explorer 1016 has stood the test of time since its debut in 1953, showcasing a rugged elegance that never goes out of style. In recent years, the Explorer 1016 has gained in popularity, becoming a highly sought-after choice for collectors.
And its rarity only added to its appeal. Prices for the Explorer 1016 can range from around $12,000 to $45,000, depending on its condition and production period. Despite being a vintage watch, the Rolex Explorer 1016 has remained relevant and captivating to this day. Its historical importance and enduring aesthetic appeal make it one of the most notable Explorer models.
7. Rolex Explorer 1655
Initially overlooked, this vintage gem now commands the attention of collectors worldwide. Let’s delve into its intriguing past, unique design, rarity, and enduring appeal.
Designed as a tool watch for daring expeditions and adventures, the Explorer II 1655 embodies Rolex’s unwavering commitment to precision and durability. Its unconventional 24-hour dial, big orange hand (“freccione” in Italian), and steadfast non-rotating bezel set it apart from other Rolex timepieces.
The robust 1970s aesthetics, including the sturdy case and plexiglass crystal, exude a charm that will speak to enthusiasts of the era. While it carries the vintage appeal, the Explorer II 1655 holds its own against modern watches.
Though its 24h dial may require a discerning eye, it adds to the watch’s distinctive character once mastered. The less common 1970s look of the 1655, and its distinctive design features make this Explorer a model to remember.
8. Rolex Explorer 14270
The Rolex Explorer 14270, especially the “Blackout” version, holds a special place among collectors. Released in 1990 as an improvement over the iconic ref. 1016, it featured a gloss dial, sapphire crystal, and distinctive black enamel-filled Arabic numerals.
These unique dial details make the “Blackout” Explorer instantly recognizable and highly sought after by collectors. In fact, these early models are considered the rarest sapphire crystal Rolexes
The Explorer 14270 strikes a balance between vintage and modern aesthetics with upgraded details and a classic 36mm case size. Its comfortable feel and understated presence make it versatile and appealing.
Despite being underrated, the Explorer ref 14270 has a rich history and enduring style. It represents the concept of “youngtimer” in the watch market, gaining collectability. The distinctive aesthetical peculiarities of the 14270 and its sheer scarcity give it a unique position in the Explorer constellation.
9. Rolex Explorer II 16570
The Rolex Explorer II Ref. 16570 holds historical importance as one of the iconic young timer watches. It represents the transitional period between vintage and modern models, offering a blend of cool design, modern features, and accessible prices.
The 16570, positioned between vintage and modern models, features a classic Oyster case made of stainless steel, which hosts Rolex’s 3185 calibre. Its timeless design captures the essence of the Explorer series, with a fixed 24-hour bezel and a clean dial available in white or black.
The watch’s distinct design elements, such as the angled brushing on the lugs and the textured and graduated bezel, contribute to its overall appeal. One particularly sought-after variation is the white “Polar” dial, which adds a touch of retro charm to the timepiece.
Its availability at a relatively affordable price compared to other Rolex models makes it an excellent choice for watch enthusiasts and collectors alike. The watch’s enduring appeal and value contribute to its status as one of the most appealing Explorer watches.
The Rolex Explorer 39 214270 introduces some important new features that enhance its appeal. One notable modification is the larger 39mm case diameter, providing a more balanced dial with prominent Arabic numerals.
In addition, the Rolex Explorer 39 214270 retains several key elements from previous editions. The watch continues to uphold its iconic design with a minimalist black time-only dial, baton hour markers, and an inverted triangle at 12 o’clock.
The movement inside the watch remains the 3132 calibre, a COSC-certified self-winding movement known for its reliability and precision. While the 39mm case size deviates from the traditional 36mm diameter of previous Explorers, it offers a contemporary twist and a more balanced dial layout.
The Rolex Explorer 39 214270 represents what Rolex does best: consistent, gradual improvement and mastery of execution.
Conclusion
The Rolex Explorer collection embodies the spirit of adventure and has captivated horological enthusiasts worldwide. From its rich history to its constant technological advancement, it has left an indelible mark.
These 10 best Explorers stand as testaments to the brand’s commitment to excellence, and each one is remarkable in its own right.
Let their tales inspire you to embrace the unknown and pursue your passions. The adventure continues—time is yours to conquer. Which of these Explorers will you slap on your wrist to embark on your horological odyssey?
It’s a known fact that Rolex is the crowned king of Haute Horology. Even total watch novices know that the brand has been in the business of making bucket-list-worthy watches since 1905.
The assertion that the Submariner is the most popular collection in the world – superseding all others in relevance and status – isn’t a utopian belief.
From the famous oceanographer Jacques-Yves Cousteau wearing one in the film “Le Monde du silence”, to James Bond flaunting the Submariner as the iconic watch par excellence, the Sub has adorned the wrists of history makers.
Owning a Submariner means owning one of the best timepieces in the entire world, but not all Subs are created equally, which is where this article comes in. Held in veneration by acolytes of the Submariner and prissy watch collectors, the Kermit and Starbucks models are among the most celebrated and debated Subs in the past century.
But why are these models so hotly debated, and how do they perform against each other? Is there really any striking difference between them, and which one is the best option for you? Let’s find out!
About the Rolex Kermit
The first Submariner models officially debuted at Baselworld in 1954. The Ref. 6204 was the first diving watch made to be waterproof up to 100m. It was clear Rolex had huge plans for the Submariner from the beginning, and one of such was to leave a legacy as one of the most important sports watches in history.
The Rolex Kermit was launched in 2003 to mark the 50th anniversary of the extolled Rolex Submariner collection. The first reference was 16610LV, and it came with a black dial and a green aluminum bezel. The unorthodox color choice was very unexpected, and the watch quickly garnered mixed reactions from Rolex’s fanbase.
The release was a surprise to the watch world and was also the very first Sub equipped with a green bezel. Many nicknames were attributed to the strange release, but the one that stuck was the ‘Kermit’.
Collectors choose to call the 16610LV the ‘Kermit’ because of the similarity in the coloring between the famous green frog and the Submariner’s bezel. The “LV” in the reference number represents “lunette verte,” which is French for “green bezel.”
The 166170LV is presented in a compact 40mm case with a thickness of 13mm. The dial is a ‘maxi-dial’, meaning the markers and hands are larger than average to allow better visibility and more lumen for reading the time at night. The watch has a water-resistant rating of 300 meters, uses the Calibre 3135, and is mounted on a hollow link Oyster bracelet made of 904L stainless steel.
Production was discontinued after seven years to make way for the new green Sub by way of the 116610LV “Hulk.” The Kermit remains the ultimate symbol of success and prestige and is one hell of a diver that makes for a great investment and family heirloom.
Since its discontinuation, demand for the anniversary piece has grown, making it highly sought-after by collectors and enthusiasts.
About the Rolex Starbucks
Launched in September 2020, the Rolex Submariner Ref. 126610LV “Starbucks” was among the four new models added to the world’s most famous dive watch collection.
The Submariner began life as a perfect diver’s instrument, and the tough tests it victoriously survived made it fixated as Rolex’s flagship model. From 1953 to the date, the line has certainly evolved but not the base concept and design code.
The Ref. 126610LV was a fresh entry, joining the ranks of other prestigious green-themed Submariners such as the Rolex Kermit and the Rolex Hulk. It was nicknamed Starbucks because of its black dial and green bezel that evoked images of the iconic green Starbucks coffee chain logo.
The design of the Starbucks seems to step away from Rolex’s otherwise conservative brand philosophy but stays faithful to the original model launched in 1953. It is 1mm bigger than its predecessor, the Ref. 116610LV (or the Hulk) and comes with a more vintage look and prominent classic proportions such as narrower horns.
Another unique feature of the Starbucks is that it is the first Sub equipped with a Calibre 3235. The Calibre 3235 comprises the Rolex Chronergy escapement with 15% improved efficiency. Starbucks continues to enrich the symbolism of Rolex today, ensuring that the brand’s cultural value continues to grow.
Whether it’s your first investment or an epic addition to your collection, Starbucks Ref. 126610LV is an elevated emblem of ambition for the Everyman across the planet. Since it has been built to the highest possible standard of design and functionality, diving professionals will also find it extremely useful.
Rolex Kermit vs Starbucks
The Rolex Kermit was the first generation of the green diver’s watch, which premiered in 2003 to mark the 50th anniversary of the Submariner collection. Starbucks Ref. 126610LV, on the other hand, is the third generation. The release of the Starbucks was quite significant because Rolex completely redesigned the Submariner collection at the same time.
The watch still featured a green bezel, but there was something “extra” about it, thanks to an upgrade in size, bezel material, and movement. Collectors have since been divided on whether it should go by the nickname ‘Kermit 2.0’ or ‘Cermit’ since it comes in the same colorway as the original Kermit and shares almost the same features.
What are the differences between these two icons? Is the Starbucks really just a reissue of the legendary Kermit Sub? Read on as we detail the variations of these two collectibles.
Appearance
Case
For several decades, the Submariner has measured 40mm in diameter. The Rolex Kermit 16610LV followed suit and came in a 904L stainless steel case (or Oyster Steel) that retained its predecessors’ 40mm diameter and 20mm lug width.
The case of the Starbucks 126610LV, on the other hand, has been increased by 1mm and features more tapered lugs, which appear thinner and more angled. The lug width has also been increased from 20mm to 21mm, though the height of both watches remains practically the same, around 12.5mm.
Aesthetically, the Starbucks Sub is slightly more elegant, especially when you discover that even the crown guards have been redesigned and are more angled and symmetrical, giving the watch more flow, more curves, and less bulk.
The similarities would be that both cases are finished with brushed surfaces and polished sides and come with a Triplock crown, sapphire crystal, and screwed case back. The sapphire crystal of the Starbucks 126610LV, however, features an anti-reflective coating on the inner side, while the Kermit 16610LV does not.
Again for both watches, the construction, execution, and finishing are on par with all Rolex models. They are also both water resistant to 300 meters or 1,000ft.
The Dial and Bezel
Framing the dial of both watches is a classic unidirectional diving bezel with easy-to-read markers and a 60-click motion. The difference, however, is that the Kermit 16610LV has a green aluminum bezel insert, while the Starbucks 126610LV features a bezel made of stainless steel with a knurled edge and Cerachrom insert.
Cerachrom is manufactured by Rolex from an extremely hard ceramic material that is virtually impervious to scratches. It is unaffected by ultraviolet rays. As a result, the green color appears a bit more restrained and provides less contrast under certain light conditions compared to the Kermit 16610LV.
The aluminum bezel of the Kermit features a more racing green color, like the character it’s nicknamed after. There isn’t a lot of noticeable difference between the dials. The Maxi-Dial layout retains the same design with oversized markers largely filled with blue-emitting Chromalight. However, the hands seem to have been reworked just a little bit.
The minute hand now has a wider luminescent insert, and unlike that of the 16610LV, it touches the minute track. The Mercedes hour hand also appears slightly wider, and the entire dial feels a bit more expanded due to the extra 1mm.
Lastly, the dial of the Starbucks features a small crown in between the “Swiss Made” text at 6 o’clock, while the Kermit omits this.
Bracelet & Clasp
Rolex knows more than any other watch brand in the world not to change a proven recipe. That said, both watches are worn on the typical Rolex Oyster bracelet. The perfectly integrated 3-link bracelet is fully brushed on its flat surfaces while the sides are polished.
Since the lug width of the Starbucks has been increased by 1mm (and is now 21mm), its entire profile, from lugs to clasp, has also been redesigned. The larger bracelet visually reduces the increase in the case size, but the larger clasp (which is also one additional millimeter compared to the Kermit) doesn’t look as elegant as the compact clasp on the Kermit.
Unlike the Kermit, the Starbucks bracelet also doesn’t feel too tapered at the buckle, which is characteristic of older Rolex Submariners.
Movements
The major difference between the Starbucks and Kermit isn’t visual but mechanical. The Kermit 16610LV is powered by the reliable Calibre 3135, an automatic movement first introduced in 1988. The workhorse movement quickly became Rolex’s main movement and appeared in most Rolex date models before 2015.
It is COSC-certified as a Superlative Chronometer with 31 jewels and is powered by a bidirectional rotor. It also features a balance wheel made of glucydur and a Parachrom hairspring, which allows better resistance to shocks and temperature variations. The Calibre 3135 offers a frequency of 28.800 vph and displays center seconds, hours, minutes, and date at 3 o’clock.
The Starbucks 126610LV, on the other hand, is powered by a movement that could be called every watchmaker’s dream; Rolex’s Calibre 3235. The movement was officially released at Baselworld 2015 and is at the forefront of watchmaking technology with a whopping 14 patents.
The COSC-certified has a longer power reserve when compared to its predecessor, the Calibre 3135– 70 hours vs. 48 hours (almost 50 percent bump). The focus of the Calibre 3235 is to offer significant improvements in terms of precision, reliability, and resistance to shocks and magnetic fields.
The accuracy of the Kermit’s Calibre 3135 falls between -4/+6 seconds per day, while that of the Calibre 3235 is of the order of -2 /+2 seconds per day. This rating is more than twice the required official chronometer accuracy.
The Rolex-patented blue Parachrom hairspring is still present in the Calibre 3235; however, it has been updated and tweaked, making it 10 times more precise than traditional hairsprings in case of shocks.
Price & Availability
At the time of launch, the Kermit retailed for around $5,000. However, production ceased in 2010 and so if you’re looking to own the Kermit ref. 16610LV, the pre-owned market, is the only viable route.
Even though there wasn’t an immediate jump in price after its discontinuation, the popularity of the Submariner Kermit made it appreciate in the collector’s market over the years. Prices for a pre-owned Submariner Kermit 16610LV in good condition start from approximately $15,500 in the second-hand online marketplace.
The Starbucks 126610LV, on the other hand, has been gracing the shelves of official retailers since 2020 and is available for purchase only on those shelves. I say this because you can’t buy a Rolex watch directly via the brand’s website. There is a list of their official jewelers where you can (and should) purchase a Rolex with guaranteed authenticity.
The average price for a new Starbucks 126610LV is $18,495, and it is covered by the official Rolex international warranty for five years.
Value Retention & Investment
Every watch connoisseur knows that Rolex watches hold their value better than most high-end brands of luxury watches. The Kermit was produced between 2003 and 2010, and since Rolex is not producing any new model, the resale value of the Ref. 16610LV has escalated in the secondhand market.
The absolutely collectible watch can be seen on marketplaces selling for as high as $23,000 (over four times its original price) and enjoys an ever-growing demand on the gray market. The limited availability of the watch also means that there is an investment opportunity here, as the huge surge in popularity doesn’t seem to be declining anytime soon.
The Starbucks will also retain its value for generations to come, provided you protect it from unnecessary wear-and-tear and keep the original box, papers, and accessories intact. If we compare the value retention of the Kermit vs. Starbucks, the green anniversary timepiece certainly has more resale value and is a better investment option due to its relative scarcity.
Rare and hard-to-find timepieces always attract the highest bids at the auction, but if, at any stage, Rolex decides to discontinue the Starbucks, its price in the secondary market will skyrocket.
Conclusion
While the Kermit and Starbucks are equal in terms of quality, execution, assembly, and finishing, the Kermit will always remain the iconic 50th-anniversary model. The magic of the Kermit has earned it a cult status, and even though the small tweaks on the Starbucks do make a major difference, the Kermit remains the more desirable watch.
That said, it will go down in history as the first legendary green Sub and will remain highly sought after among collectors.
Let’s delve into the legendary wristwatch collection of one of the great contemporary maestros of melody, John Mayer, and unveil the Rolex timepieces that make up a good chunk of Mayer’s personal treasure trove. Rolex, the paragon of precision and elegance, has enthralled watch connoisseurs for over a century with its unrivaled craftsmanship and iconic designs.
From the iconic Submariner’s aquatic allure to the bold and racy precision of the Daytona, each Rolex exudes a symphony of horological perfection, and John’s selection is certainly the cream of the crop.
A Guitar Man and His Watches – John Mayer’s Rolex Obsession
In a world where rhythm and harmony meet, we find the enigmatic figure of John Mayer, a virtuoso both on stage and in the world of timekeeping. Revered for his soul-stirring guitar riffs, Mayer has built an esteemed reputation as a connoisseur of exquisite timepieces, particularly Rolexes.
A watch guy with a penchant for hard-to-obtain pieces, he has amassed a collection that rivals any, both in value and rarity. He’s been collecting for years and has multiple watches outside of his vast Rolex cache. But it is known that his heart lies with the Swiss giant, as he most often wears and discusses his favorite Rolex pieces, be they new or vintage.
Mayer’s devotion to watch culture is profoundly inspiring. With him, a guitar and a Rolex become extensions of his artistry – representations of two very different worlds that unite in the hands of an unlikely figure.
John Mayer Rolex Daytona Collection
Enter the world of high-octane elegance with John Mayer’s captivating collection of Daytonas. The Daytona, a revered icon in the realm of motorsport-inspired timepieces, has a host of characteristics that would resonate with the discerning eye of an artist.
With its chronograph functionality, tachymeter scale, and bold yet beloved pushers, the Daytona exudes an air of refinement that mirrors Mayer’s approach to his craft.
Among the timekeeping treasures cherished by Mayer is the illustrious Rolex Daytona 116500. Originating in 1963, the Daytona has more than earned its place as an iconic timepiece. Mayer has been frequently spotted with the highly coveted Rolex Daytona Ref. 116500LN, a modern masterpiece defined by its hardy, tool-centric minimalism.
Retailing for roughly $14,550, this modern classic is defined by its black ceramic bezel, which encircles a stark white dial for maximum contrast. There’s something very modest about the 116500LN, a characteristic that makes the watch universally wearable, which is perhaps why it’s so coveted by Rolex enthusiasts, Mayer included.
2. Rolex Daytona Yellow Gold Rainbow 116598RBOW
Not for everyone, the mesmerizing Rolex Daytona Yellow Gold Rainbow 116598RBOW is an antidote to the modesty of the 116500. While some may dismiss it as ostentatious or garish, Mayer skillfully persuades us to appreciate its splendor.
He emphasizes the rarity of this timepiece, not only in terms of its physical attributes but also the creative ingenuity behind its design.
Available on aftermarket platforms for around $200,000, this exquisite watch surpasses opulence, embracing the paradigm of exceptional craftsmanship and discerning collectability. It takes some attitude to wear a watch with multicolored, precious stone inserts, so it’s no surprise that Mayer flaunts his gregarious alter-ego with the help of the rainbow bezel.
3. Rolex Daytona White Gold Rainbow 116599RBOW
In the realm of extraordinary timepieces, John Mayer possesses at least one true gem that regularly ignites the passions of watch collectors and horologists. The Rolex Daytona White Gold Rainbow 116599RBOW is no exception.
While the alternative metal variants often garner more recognition, Mayer’s acquisition of the white gold iteration sets him apart from other collectors in his league, showcasing a sense of taste that transcends mere monetary value.
Like the previous piece, this Daytona boasts a bezel adorned with a vibrant spectrum of rainbow gemstones. Its scarcity enhances its allure, making it a highly-desired ticker among collectors. Presently, this horological masterpiece can be found on the secondary market at an approximate price of $245,000. Few things say ‘wealthy and stylish’ like white gold, and Mayer really shows his colors with this one.
4. Rolex Daytona 116508 Yellow Gold Green Dial
John Mayer’s keen eye for somewhat obscure watches unveils timepieces with untapped grail potential – a talent that hasn’t gone unnoticed by the Rolex community. A fine example of this knack is the Rolex Daytona 116508 Yellow Gold Green Dial, which Mayer astutely recognized ahead of its subsequent rise to super-watch status.
In fact, it could be said that Mayer’s affinity for the 116508 is what prompted its sharp rise in popularity – after Mayer showcased this emerald-hued masterpiece on Hodinkee, its desirability and value skyrocketed.
Distinguished by its captivating ‘Christmas’ green dial shade with a sunburst finish, this Daytona stands apart from its black and champagne-dialed counterparts, boasting a unique visage seldom seen on Rolex watches.
The Daytona 116508 Yellow Gold Green Dial epitomizes Mayer’s ability to spot extraordinary timepieces and elevate them to coveted status among discerning collectors, proving that he’s much more than just a good songwriter.
5. Rolex Daytona 116509 White Gold Blue Dial
This is another rather understated piece (as far as Daytonas go) in Mayer’s collection, and in many ways, it’s the lamb to the 116508’s lion. Officially listed by Rolex at $37,450, this piece showcases the harmonious fusion of bright yet cool colors and functional technicality.
I’m assuming Mayer has a fairly good relationship with Rolex at this point, enabling him to secure these gems at their retail price. Someone with Mayer’s insight doesn’t get scalped on a Rolex.
The Daytona 116509 White Gold Blue Dial is a symphony of sophistication, and although I love the green dial, something about the way the silver and blue hues work together makes the sunburst finish on this piece all the more satisfying to the eye. That said, the crown guard and pushers do appear slightly larger in white gold than in yellow gold (although they’re not), so if you’re a stickler for detail, bear that in mind.
6. Rolex Daytona Custom Bamford & Sons Blacked Out
Unlike many purists, Mayer isn’t averse to a bit of customization. The remarkable Rolex Daytona Custom Bamford & Sons Blacked Out stands as a testament to this. In fact, Mayer received one of the final Rolex mods made by the London customizer before they were purchased by LMVH and directed to work exclusively on their new boss’s brands, of which Rolex isn’t one.
A PVD blackout case and strap are brought to life by the baby blue dial which it encases. It’s not really my style, but one has to appreciate the unique nature and color combination of this weirdly wonderful watch.
7. Rolex Daytona Custom Mickey Mouse
Drawing on his passion for vintage timepieces and the irresistible allure of the legendary Rolex Oyster Date Mickey Mouse Dial, John Mayer embarked on a personal design venture to create a modern rendition of this elusive watch.
On the Rolex ref. 116520, the black PVD-coated Daytona preserves all its functional prowess, thanks to the calibre 4130 movement, while flaunting a distinctive portrait of Disney’s beloved mouse on its chronograph dial.
The watch comes with both a black and a white face, and Mayer almost certainly has at least one of each, given that this is well and truly his brainchild. While many might find the idea of a Mickey Mouse Daytona somewhat infantile, there’s something to be said about the endlessly playful (albeit unlikely) combination of these two pieces of horological culture.
8. Rolex Daytona 6263 Non-Paul Newman Black Dial
Otherwise known as the ‘Small Red’, the 6263 is a basic watch in many ways. Ostensibly devoid of any flair or grandeur, the non-Paul Newman 6263 might well escape the gaze of undiscerning eyes. One may be surprised to find that this ticker, defined by a red pop of lettering on the dial that proclaims its lineage, is one of the most important watches ever made.
“It’s the only vintage Daytona you’ll ever need”, is what Mayer had to say about this modest Rolex on his first Talking Watches appearance. A black dial with white sub-dials, a flat black bezel, and screw-down pushers, all set upon a steel case, define the 6263’s aesthetic. It’s a watch made to wear, not to show, and I think that’s fundamental to its enduring spirit.
9. Rolex Daytona Yellow Gold Gold 6263 Sigma Dial
This distinctive variation of the Daytona dial, recognized by collectors as a Sigma dial, showcases two lowercase Greek Sigma letters (σ) flanking the esteemed “T SWISS MADE T” signature positioned below the 6 o’clock marker. The Sigma symbols indicate the use of lustrous solid gold for the hour markers, be it white gold or yellow gold, depending on the specific version of the reference 6263 Daytona.
Though a seemingly subtle detail, these coveted Sigma dials, gracing various Rolex models from the early 1970s to the latter part of the decade, command a premium on the vintage market. Mayer’s Yellow Gold 6263 Sigma Dial is an iconic watch of its time and one whose vintage appeal and rarity still enflames the passions of collectors to this day.
10. Rolex Daytona Yellow Gold 6263 Paul Newman Dial
Stop me if you’ve heard this one before – the Paul Newman Daytona is practically an institution that carried the Rolex brand over many years. A truly legendary timepiece, the Yellow Gold 6263 with its revered Paul Newman dial is a clear indication (if you still needed one) of Mayer’s affinity for vintage Rolex Daytonas.
These exceptional timepieces, coveted by collectors, possess the potential to command staggering million-dollar prices at auction, given that they speak for a revelation in watchmaking history, as well as for a specific era of style and panache. Among Mayer’s treasures, the gold Rolex Daytona Ref. 6263 adorned with a Newman-style dial holds a special place.
A similar masterpiece with a slightly different dial fetched a staggering $4,000,000 at a prestigious Phillips auction in 2017. Considering the current fervor within the watch market, one can only fathom that the price has ascended even further since.
11. Rolex Daytona Steel 6263 Paul Newman Dial
The inclusion of a steel Paul Newman model showcases Mayer’s true admiration for the legendary Newman Rolex Daytona. It says a lot that Mayer would be willing to step away from his affinity for gold Daytonas to complete his Newman collection with this simple steel piece. To further emulate the spirit of the legendary Newman, or perhaps to pay homage to it, Mayer has this timepiece on a bund strap, just as the watch’s namesake did.
I personally love a steel watch – it’s unpretentious in every way, giving itself over to the practical workings of the piece rather than leaning on lofty aesthetics and precious materials. There’s something admirable about a collector who acknowledges a watch for its cultural status as opposed to its weight in gold.
12. Rolex Daytona 6264 Paul Newman Panda
The Paul Newman Panda is certainly a favorite in the Newman line of Rolexes – Panda dials have, for their striking contrast, become beloved by watch enthusiasts the world over, whether said enthusiasts love actual panda bears or not.
Crafted for a fleeting moment between 1970 and 1971, this Ref. 6264 timepiece is certainly a rarity, as evidenced by a handful of exceptional sales, with prices reaching almost $300,000 in late 2018. Again, it’s hard to say whether Mayer paid anything close to 300k for his Newman Panda, but it’s likely that whatever he spent, he’s a very happy man with this in his watch box.
13. Rolex Daytona 6264 Pulsation Dial
Pulsation dials, an elusive breed, are as scarce as hen’s teeth (hens don’t have teeth). According to esteemed experts such as Hodinkee founder Ben Clymer, a mere handful of verified examples exist in the world, possibly numbering around 8 or 10.
With a brushed silver dial and pitch-black sub-dials, this smaller Daytona is an absolute marvel of its class. It gets its name from the pulsation dial on the outer track of the face, which was theoretically used by doctors to measure heartbeats.
The absurd value of these timepieces is unquestionable – they’re estimated to fetch nearly a million dollars or more at auction. Mayer’s 6264 Pulsation dial variant is in fantastic condition and, thus, is poised to captivate collectors and potentially surpass that value if and when he ever decides to sell it.
14. Rolex Daytona 6265 Omani Khanjar
It could be said that John Mayer’s prized possession, among his Daytona collection at least, is his 6265 Omani Khanjar. A standard Ref. 6265 commands a hefty estimate of $300,000 to $500,000 at auctions, and Mayer’s watch, which bears the green, “kinda pot-leafy” crossed-sabers symbol at the 6 o’clock mark, set into the lower white sub-dial, would likely go for the same.
This distinctive mark significantly enhances the value of the watch, solidifying its desirability among collectors. With Mayer’s penchant for acquiring extraordinary timepieces, it’s no wonder he, too, has fallen for Rolex’s Arabic iterations, as the next item on the list confirms…
15. Rolex Daytona 6265 United Arab Emirates Desert Eagle Coat of Arms
The craziest thing about the 6265 United Arab Emirates Desert Eagle Coat of Arms is the fact that it doesn’t say Rolex anywhere on the dial, which is a testament to the truly custom nature of this model. In a tale of timeless prestige, His Highness Shaikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, the esteemed Defence Minister of the UAE in the 1970s, personally commissioned a masterpiece.
The Rolex Daytona Ref. 6263 emerged, adorned with the emblem of the UAE, the Quraysh Hawk. Only a select few bear this distinguished quality. Mayer’s acquisition is the updated 6265 iteration, a more modern but equally extraordinary timepiece.
16. Rolex Daytona 6269
Considered the progenitor of the illustrious “rainbow” lineage, this Daytona boasts a bezel and dial bedecked with a symphony of dazzling diamonds. Its rarity is unquestionable, with only a handful of these marvels on the wrists of fortunate collectors. It’s a flashy piece, no doubt, but with its unisex appeal and classic shape, this 6269 is more pared-back than Mayer’s Rainbow Daytonas in almost every way.
17. Rolex Daytona 6270
In the depths of rarity lies the remarkable Rolex Daytona 6270, a cherished sibling to the esteemed 6269. This horological gem, adorned with undeniable allure, resides within the realm of utmost scarcity. In 2014, Christie’s astounded the watch world by auctioning one of these elusive treasures for an astonishing CHF 905,000.
Made for the Sultan of Oman, it is said that only 6 of these watches exist and that they are likely the most expensive items ever produced by Rolex, with baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel and a pavé-set diamond dial. This is likely the most bonkers timepiece on this list as far as true, unabated luxury goes.
John Mayer Rolex Submariner Collection
The Submariner, arguably the most iconic and genre-defining dive watch ever made, epitomizes the fusion of form and function. With its iconic design, the Submariner strikes a chord with Mayer’s affinity for practical aesthetics and easy-wearing watches.
1. Rolex Submariner 1680 COMEX
Discussed in Mayer’s first Talking Watches episode, this COMEX Sub is a quirky timepiece in its class for one very particular reason. Crafted exclusively for the renowned French dive company COMEX, the ref. 1680, unlike its counterparts, is devoid of a helium escape valve (an essential feature on dive watches) and was, therefore, more of a ‘tester’ than a watch manufactured for the market.
Perhaps this COMEX never made it into the water, but it became the prized possession of Comex office personnel, who shared among them the few of these made. It’s a simple watch – steel case, black bezel, black dial with lume indices, and a bold white COMEX logo sitting above the six o’clock mark. John’s own 1680 is, of course, in amazing condition.
2. Rolex Submariner 5514 COMEX
As if one COMEX Sub isn’t enough, Mayer owns two of these vintage divers. His second is the Rolex Submariner Comex ref. 5514. At first glance, it resembles the iconic ref. 5513, exhibiting the very same matte dial and a subtly weathered grey bezel. However, upon closer inspection, a small yet significant detail emerges—the discreet presence of a helium escape valve discreetly nestled on its side.
This extraordinary model, shrouded in exclusivity, was reserved solely for the esteemed members of COMEX, eluding the grasp of the public, similar to the 1680, although it lacks the bold COMEX logo that defines the dial of its predecessor.
3. Rolex Submariner 6200
This is it. Perhaps the most important Submariner ever built by Rolex, this watch laid the groundwork for a horological icon. The Rolex Submariner ref. 6200 predates the revered Submariner name. Made on a run of 300 pieces in 1954, the 6200 is unique in a few ways; it doesn’t say ‘Submariner’ anywhere on the watch, it’s got an Explorer-type dial, and it was the first Submariner to have Mercedes-style hands.
It’s certainly a grail watch for many collectors, as evidenced by its history at auction – Phillips sold one of these illustrious specimens in October 2017 for a staggering $579,000. An absolute gem in John Mayer’s remarkable collection, his 6200 is a genuinely impressive timepiece, despite its antiquated look.
4. Rolex “MilSub” Submariner Ref. 5517
The Rolex ‘MilSub’ Submariner Ref. 5517 is a watch built for submerged military applications. Although John Mayer is unlikely to be doing any underwater ambushes anytime soon, the 5517 is a more-than-worthy inclusion in his collection, given its singular history and build. Fixed spring bars, a satin case finish, a ’T’ dial, sword hands, and a continuously graded bezel come together to make this timepiece of note.
It’s a hard-wearing, rugged piece, if ever there was one, and Mayer’s own 5517 shows all the glorious signs of wear you’d expect to see on a vintage military watch. While the MilSub is well-known amongst enthusiasts, its scarcity elevates it to mythical proportions – it’s said that only 1200 MilSubs were crafted by Rolex, with a mere 180 believed to still be in circulation.
5. Rolex Submariner 116619
The only non-vintage Submariner on this list is the well-renowned Rolex ‘Smurf’, a modern piece that yells ‘I’m casual and sporty’ everywhere it goes. Mayer’s Smurf has a solid 18k white gold case and bracelet, a theme that carries through a few of his Daytonas, as I’m sure you’ve noticed. In fact, the 116619 was the first Rolex Submariner to come in all-white gold, a peculiarity that betrays Mayer’s interest in this reference.
Yet, it’s not just the precious metal that defines the Smurf but the enchanting interplay of colors from which it gets its nickname. The blue Cerachrom bezel and lacquered blue dial bestow upon it an irresistibly easy-going charm. The Smurf Submariner is a harmonious fusion of sophistication and playfulness, effortlessly capturing attention and thus leaving an indelible mark on the world of horology.
John Mayer Rolex GMT Master II Collection
As an artist who is endlessly on tour, thus constantly traversing time zones, Mayer finds solace in the GMT Master II’s ability to seamlessly adapt to his jet-setting lifestyle. Its iconic rotatable bezel, striking dial variations, and robust construction render the GMT Master II victim to its owner’s movements across borders – it’s a sturdy, reliable, and eye-catching watch that does the job in style.
The 126710BLNR, affectionately known as the ‘Batman’, broke the mold (and the market) when it was released in 2013. The moniker was quickly applied to the watch by adoring Rolex fanatics as it perfectly describes its captivating blue and black bezel, reminiscent of the iconic colors of DC Comics’ favorite dark hero. The Batman was a huge success as it was the first watch of its kind (with a split-tone Cerachrom bezel) to be released by Rolex.
Although a newer version is available on a Jubilee bracelet, Mayer opts for the simplicity of the Oyster bracelet, which I totally get – it’s a proud watch on humble shackles, and with its unstoppable 3186 movement, there’s little chance of it letting Mayer down while he’s playing sets away from home.
2. Rolex GMT Master II “Pepsi” White Gold Black Dial 116719BLRO
A groundbreaking creation, this white gold wonder marks the first Pepsi model crafted from precious metal. Its allure is further enhanced by noteworthy upgrades, including the Cerachrom ceramic bezel, replacing the previous aluminum material. The addition of the Triplock waterproofing system ensures unparalleled aqueous protection, while the Maxi Dial boasts larger lume plots, which emboldens the dial in a significant manner.
Now discontinued, the 116719BLRO commands a princely sum of approximately $42,000 on the thriving secondary market. Much like the Batman, this piece is playful yet austere, with its black face acting as a sort of grounding influence to the lively bezel.
3. Rolex GMT Master II Black Bezel 116710LN
Although it may be the most approachable of Mayer’s watches due to its affordability and monotone design, the 116710LN is a highly sought-after member of the GMT Master II family. With a stainless steel case, black-on-black bezel and dial, and an easy-wearing 40mm case, the 116710LN is a masterclass in design moderation. Rolex could have done a lot more here if they didn’t know that few things are more timeless than the combination of black and silver.
Don’t let this watch fool you, though – it represents the final iteration of the GMT-Master II series to showcase a monochromatic bezel insert, bidding adieu to an era of singular allure and making it a special timepiece to own. Though discontinued in 2018, it’s still fawned over on the aftermarket, unsurprisingly. This may be my favorite watch of Mayer’s, if only for its chaste character.
4. Rolex GMT Master II Gold 116718LN
Let’s go out with a bang – the final item in John Mayer’s seemingly endless Rolex collection is the opulent yellow gold Rolex GMT Master II Gold 116718LN, a piece that champions Mayer’s belief that the GMT is Rolex’s greatest movement. This golden marvel, adorned with a striking black dial, exudes an air of refined sophistication.
As Rolex currently refrains from offering a yellow gold GMT, the yellow gold GMT-Master II commands attention, particularly as it was discontinued in 2019. With this, Mayer yet again proves that every one of his timepieces is an item of special magnificence and (somewhat) unattainable rarity.
The Finish Line
It almost goes without saying at this point that Mayer’s Rolex selection is a sight to behold. One which showcases his desire to “take something from a high-style culture and adopt it into your own culture”.
Each Rolex, with its definitive characteristics and precision craftsmanship, serves as an extension of Mayer’s musical virtuosity. Through his collection, Mayer reminds us that time is not merely a ticking of seconds but a rhythmic journey where art and engineering intertwine.
His Rolex ensemble stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of horological mastery and the unwavering pursuit of perfection – a harmonious ode to the beauty of time, music, and the symbiotic relationship between the two.
The year 1945 witnessed the end of the Second World War. It was also the year that Rolex released the Oyster Perpetual Datejust reference number 4467. The Datejust marked a major innovation in watch technology, with the first-ever date function. A remarkable feat for a company under normal circumstances.
However, Rolex managed to survive the war and emerged from the conflict, producing this breakthrough model in the face of nearly insurmountable supply chain disruptions.
The original Datejust commemorated the company’s 40th anniversary. It was first available in a manual wind movement, 36mm case size, 18k yellow gold, and featured a fluted bezel, cyclops date window, a waterproof Oyster case, and the now famous Jubilee bracelet.
The Datejust would ultimately become one of the most recognizable Rolex models and their all-time best-seller. Often referred to as the brand’s ‘workhorse’. By the mid-1950s, Rolex, without much fanfare, released the lesser-known little brother to the Datejust, the Rolex Date. The Date was essentially the same timepiece, but in a smaller, 34mm size and at a lower price point.
The big brother eventually expanded its offerings to include a plethora of dial and material combinations, along with multiple case sizes. At the same time, its younger sibling kept things simple, with one case size and a few combinations.
In this article, we’ll examine the commonalities and distinctions between the two collections. We’ll consider the design, functions, and features of some of their most popular versions over the decades to help you make the most informed decision in your next purchase.
About the Rolex Date
The Rolex Date was added to the Rolex roster rather quietly in 1955. Throughout most of its tenure, the collection has served as a smaller version of the Datejust collection and is nearly identical. Even comparing the watches side by side, it’s difficult to see the difference in size without tools of measurement.
The Date has a case size that measures 34mm and a 19mm lug width. Both watches were originally powered by a manual wind movement. Later versions featured automatic movements. The Date has always offered fewer customizations than the Datejust but a better price point.
Some might see the Date as an entry-level Rolex, and the price would suggest that. But the Date is a solid performer and every bit a Rolex. Sure, there are fancier models, but this is an excellent first Rolex or addition to one’s collection.
The model was discontinued in 2021, as subtlety as it was introduced, likely because the trend in men’s watches has been towards larger case sizes. It’s worth noting that the outgoing model didn’t receive the same upgrades to the movement the current Datejust offers.
About the Rolex Datejust
The Rolex Datejust, released in 1945, was the first timepiece to offer a date function, something that added great functionality and became a staple for many wristwatches. The original Datejust had a 36mm case size, but over the years, Rolex has offered it in different size options, including 31mm (primarily targeted to women) and 41mm.
Both the 36mm and the 41mm have a lug width of 20mm. Of course, the 31mm comes in a smaller lug width of 16mm. From the beginning, the model featured a magnified (by 2.5 times) date window at 3 o’clock, which has become known as a cyclops date, and is now synonymous with Rolex. It’s also known for its fluted bezel and its 5-link jubilee bracelet.
While there have been upgrades to the movement over the generations, the style has remained largely untouched. It’s a classic design that has targeted executives and professionals. Perhaps this has limited the collection’s audience to a more mature clientele.
While the collection tends to be viewed as a dressier sports watch, the timepiece can be dressed down by choosing options like a smooth bezel and the Oyster steel case and bracelet. The Datejust does offer a dizzying array of customizations.
One can choose a smooth or fluted bezel, as well as the Oyster or Jubilee bracelet. It comes in steel, white, yellow, and rose gold. The dial options are considerable, with black, shades of gray, silver, blue, green, and white. Some of the dials are textured or sunburst, and others are adorned with diamonds. There’s even an option for Roman numerals or simple indices.
Rolex Date vs Datejust: Which Should One Choose
The two collections have largely shared the same classic style, features, and movements throughout most of their histories. However, let’s consider some of the distinctions and finer points of comparison.
Model Options
The Rolex Date collection keeps it simple. There are fewer customizations, in contrast to its bigger brother, which presently offers different-sized cases and various style and material options.
Build
The Datejust and Date have a nearly identical build quality. Both have rugged, water-resistant Oyster cases. The case size of the Datejust has always been slightly larger and now comes in three different sizes. Both collections have the same basic bracelet options.
Movements
Both have often shared the same movements and features throughout their histories. When considering pre-owned vintage models, it’s worth noting that the Datejust 16xx and Date 15xx collections were the first to introduce the quickset date feature to the model lines.
This means that the date could be independently adjusted from the center hands; a time saving convenience. The latest Datejust features Rolex Calibre 3235 and offers a 70-hour power reserve. The last Date model from 2021 offered the older Rolex caliber 3135 with a 48-hour power reserve, which is not as advanced and accurate as the 3235.
Price and Availability
The current Datejust’s MSRP starts at around $7,000 for the 31mm and tops out at around $16,750 for the 41mm with options like rose gold and diamonds. If you fancy the Date, you’ll have to consider the pre-owned market, as this model has been discontinued; last offered in 2021.
One example from Watch Charts pegs the Rolex 115200 at a market price of $6,634, though the retail price will likely be higher. Some older models might be found for less. For example, some vintage models from the 1970s can be found for $3,195
Value Retention and Investment
Both collections tend to hold their value well. However, the Datejust is likely to appreciate faster, given that there are some configurations with diamonds and other precious metals, which increase the desirability and allow the timepieces to appreciate at a faster rate.
Notable Rolex Date & Datejust Models
ROLEX DATE REF. 115200
The Rolex Date originally arrived on the watch scene right at the midpoint of the 20th century, and while it’s no longer in production, this is a classic example of why Rolex just gets it right. It’s everything you want and expect from Rolex in a small package and at a reasonable price.
The 115200 has a polished stainless-steel case measuring 34mm, as all of the Rolex Date models do, and sits at 12mm on the wrist. The dial is black with silver hands and white Roman numerals.
However, there are different color configurations and simple index options for this model, as well. At 12 o’clock is the iconic raised Rolex five-point crown, and there’s the quintessential Cyclops date window at 3 o’clock.
The Rolex treatment and standards are seen in the details. Upon close examination of the timepiece, one can see the hands are polished by hand, not machine, and the print is clean and crisp. The polishing and fitting of the case are perfect.
That same attention to detail is continued with the movement. This model is powered by the caliber 3135 automatic movement, with a 48-hour power reserve. The Oyster bracelet completes the package for a timepiece that just hits the sweet spot.
Price: $6,390
ROLEX DATE REF. 6534
This is a true vintage model that’s rare and yet still reasonably affordable. Produced in the mid-1950s, the 6534 has a few unique features starting with the “ROLEX” signature in applied letters to the top half of the dial. At three o’clock, there’s a Cyclops roulette-style date window, with alternating red and black numbers, and the claw-shaped hour markers with double-pointed baton markers at 6 and 9, which transport one to another era.
Most of these come in a stainless-steel case measuring 34mm; however, there are some yellow-gold versions out there, as well. The dial color of the one highlighted here is referred to as radium burn, which to my eye, is a creamy light yellow.
The face is protected by a plexiglass, and the watch is powered by the caliber 1030 automatic movement. The timepiece was originally paired with a steel riveted Oyster bracelet with a folding clasp, though many on the pre-owned market have now been matched with leather straps.
Price: $4,850
ROLEX DATE REF. 1500
The Rolex Date 1500 is another vintage model that can be found at a modest price point. The 1500s were made in the ’60s and ’70s and offer the old charm of thick acrylic crystal, antique hands, indices, and the rivet link Oyster bracelets.
Most of these models are in stainless steel, but some are in yellow gold. One of this period’s most stunning and unique dials is their textured champagne face with the Tritium hands.
That one is a bit harder to get a price on, so the one featured here is their sunburst blue dial, which is still radiant after nearly 50 years. The timepiece is powered by the 1570 automatic movement and is paired with a stainless-steel Oyster bracelet with a folding clasp.
The DateJust 126334 was first released in 2016 and is also the current model in 2023. This model has many different configurations with different material options in Oystersteel, White Rolesor, Yellow Rolesor, and Everose Rolestor, as well as a smooth or fluted bezel and an Oyster or Jubilee bracelet.
One can further customize their Datejust with multiple dial colors, some with textures and diamonds. The one we’ve selected is the Oystersteel and white gold. The white gold case measures 41mm and is fitted with a fluted bezel.
While the fluted bezel is thought of as a design feature today, it was originally designed to screw the bezel into the case, helping achieve a tighter seal and protecting against water penetration. The blue sunburst dial with white gold lined indices and a magnified date window at 3 o’clock is both well-made and lovely to behold.
So is the blending of the two metals, gold and steel. Gold is admired for its sheen and steel for its character; together, they make something special. The timepiece is thin, sitting at 12mm on the wrist. It’s paired with the Jubilee bracelet, which was originally designed for the 1945 Osterperpetual Datejust, and is a five-link metal bracelet that’s remarkably comfortable.
The bracelet boasts an Oysterclasp and a 5mm extension. Inside, the watch features the Rolex 3235 caliber automatic movement with a 70-hour power reserve. It’s also water resistant to 100 meters.
Price: $10,500
ROLEX DATEJUST OYSTERQUARTZ
The Oysterquartz was Rolex’s answer to the quartz crisis introduced by Seiko in the early 70s. Rolex stopped manufacturing the DateJust Oysterquartz in 2001, but some Rolex Oysterquartz models can still be found for a relative steal on the pre-owned market.
For this profile, we’ve selected a Datejust Oysterquartz from the late ’70s and ‘80s, the 17013. This is a handsome-looking two-tone watch in stainless steel and 14k yellow gold. The stainless-steel case measures 36mm and is fitted with a fluted yellow gold bezel. The dial of the timepiece is champagne with Tritium hands and a Cyclops date window at 3 o’clock.
As the name implies, the watch is powered by a quartz movement. It’s paired with a stainless steel bracelet, which has thin 14-karat yellow gold perpendicular links running down the center. This watch just feels like the 80s to me. I can see this on the wrist of some business tycoon of the era. It just puts out a cool vibe.
Price: $6,170
ROLEX DATEJUST 36 REF. 1600
In 1969 Rolex released the 1600, a version of the Datejust with a smooth bezel. Today it’s an option, but when the DateJust was first introduced, it only came with a fluted bezel, and that design feature gave the timepiece a dressier look. While only a subtle style change, this smooth edition made the watch more versatile.
The polished stainless steel case measures 36mm and sits on the wrist at 11mm thick. The silver sunburst dial with its raised baton hour markers and handset exudes class. There’s a Cyclops date window at 3 o’clock. The timepiece is powered by the Rolex caliber 1570 automatic movement and is fitted with a signed steel Oyster bracelet.
Price: $3,785
Parting Thoughts
Both the Rolex Datejust and Date are excellent, timeless designs. The Date is simplified and comes at a more modest price point, while the Datejust is highly customizable but more expensive. Outside of the modest size and customization differences, the two are incredibly similar, and one’s choice will come down to those little details of preference.
