Imagine that you’re a new watch enthusiast. You have fallen in love with that Omega Seamaster 300 you saw strategically posed on Instagram and know that you need to have one. Being new to the game, you probably haven’t quite reached the levels of delusion allowing you to believe that $5000 plus on a watch is a “great value”, so it’s time to start searching everyone’s favorite auction site searching for the deal of a lifetime.
You’re armed with a little bit of knowledge and a lot of eagerness to be the next one to post a “New Watch Alert” in your favorite Facebook group. After a few weeks, you’ve found it! You’re almost shaking with excitement as you find “the deal of a lifetime” and can’t put your payment information in fast enough.
After a few minutes, the rush of excitement has likely subsided, and you have come off of cloud nine and returned comfortably to reality. Did you really just score a like new Omega Seamaster 300 for 1/3 of the MSRP because the seller “needs to sell ASAP”?
As reality settles in, you probably start doing what many of us would do in this situation. Frantically researching to see if you genuinely scored a deal or just learned a very expensive lesson.
Although this scenario plays out several times a day amongst several brands in the watch industry, we will specifically take a look at Omega and what to look for to avoid the pings of regret that this hypothetical new enthusiast is feeling right about now.
Why Are There So Many Fake Omega Watches?
With a history dating back to 1848, Omega is one of the most prestigious luxury watch brands in the industry. In terms of iconic models, few watch brands come anywhere near what Omega has been able to accomplish.
In particular, the Seamaster and Speedmaster lines have become synonymous with luxury watch design and are often victims of homage timepieces taking subtle (or not so subtle) inspiration from their design. There is a point where this flattery crosses the line, and for many people, that happens with the name on the dial.
If there is money to be made on the name of a product, there is someone illegally using that name to make a profit. There is no shortage of brands assembling watches and placing luxury brand names on the dial. These range from comically poor design and quality, to 1:1 super clones that require a very highly trained eye to determine the real from the replica.
8 Ways to Check Omega Watch Authenticity
We are going to focus this list on the super clones. From a picture, or sale listing, they look great, but how can we separate a luxury timepiece from one of the most prestigious brands in the industry from a piece of counterfeit trash? Get your loupe out; we’re taking a deep dive into the details of this one.
Serial Number
Depending on how good your eyes are, you might not need the Loupe just yet. The first thing to look for is a serial number on your Omega watch to verify authenticity. This serial number will be 7 to 8 digits and etched into the backside of your watch’s lug.
If you purchased a watch with the box and papers, these numbers should match. Just because a timepiece has a number etched into the lugs with matching paperwork does not always mean it’s authentic. A great next step will be to perform a simple Google search with the serial number on your watch.
Counterfeiters often produce an entire run of models using the same serial number to save cost, and you will see others listed for sale. These serial numbers are unique to the watch. If you find another one, it is almost certainly, unless you’re the unlucky owner of the original serial number that has been counterfeited, not an authentic watch (this is why you should never post a picture of your serial number).
Dial Printing
One of the most challenging and often overlooked characteristics of a watch is the printing on the dial. Whether it is just the chapter ring, or also the logo and branding or specifications, crisp and straight dial printing are hard to perfect (Just ask Seiko! Only kidding…sort of).
If you take out your jeweler’s loupe and closely inspect the dial, you should see very crisp printing with even spacing and perfectly level placement. If it looks less than perfect, you should be suspicious. Any brand can make a mistake (just look at Rolex with their double 9 Rolex Explorer), but Omega is one of the absolute best regarding these details.
Date Wheel
One of the most often ignored areas, even by the counterfeiters with the highest standards, is closely related to the dial printing. Even the best dial printing counterfeiter seems to haphazardly throw a standard date wheel in their watch 99/100 times.
An authentic Omega watch is going to feature a date wheel that is perfectly aligned and spaced properly over the entire date window. Much like the printing on the dial, the replica will not look anywhere near as crisp as what you should expect to find with a genuine Omega. These details are subtle from a distance, but with the help of your jeweler’s loupe are figuratively and literally magnified.
Solid Construction
If you have ever owned or tried on an authentic Omega watch, one thing that truly stands out is just how solid the construction is. Everything is machined to such a tight tolerance, and there is no doubt that you are wearing a luxury timepiece on your wrist.
Despite having some visual similarities, most replicas really lack that same feeling of heft on the wrist. Many of them are constructed decently, but it would be like comparing an entry-level Hamilton to an Omega. There are less precise tolerances, and the watch naturally loses some of that heft on the wrist.
There is nothing wrong with the construction of a watch like a Hamilton, but as much as enthusiasts love the brand, there would be more than a few eyebrows raised if they tried to price their timepieces in the same range as Omega, as many replicas are trying to do.
Case Finishing
Another area Omega is known to excel in is that of case finishing. Few brands can match the crisp transitions of brushed to highly polished, like Omega. Compared to an authentic Omega, a replica will have a much softer transition of brushed to polished surfaces.
When viewed on its own, it may appear well done and crisp, but compared side to side, the differences become much more apparent. The brushed surfaces will generally have a more aggressive brushing having ever so slight brush lines that you can detect with the very scientific fingernail test. The polished surface will likely not be as uniform and reflective as what you find with an authentic example either.
Movement Design
One of the hardest areas to replicate for a counterfeiter is the engine powering the watch. Many replica watches will feature a replica ETA 2824. These movements have a very generic finish that does not match the type of finish you would find on an authentic model.
Some higher-end counterfeiters will take things up a notch and replace the rotor with a similarly finished one. When looking through an open caseback, the movement will appear to be OK but spin the rotor out of the way, and the movement quickly reveals its secrets.
Movement Technology
One thing that is incredibly hard, if not impossible, for counterfeiters to replicate is brand-specific movement technology, such as the Co-Axial escapement featured on most of Omega’s modern watches. Unless you are very familiar with watchmaking, I’d leave this next level of identification to a professional watchmaker.
When opening up the watch and inspecting the movement, a trained watchmaker can quickly tell if the movement utilizes a Co-Axial escapement or just a dressed-up Swiss Lever escapement looking to play the part.
Trusted Seller
Of all of the things to look for on a watch to ensure authenticity, there is only one that is guaranteed to work. Counterfeiters are continuing to get better and better and are actively working to improve on the differences we have already pointed out on this list.
There is one thing counterfeiters will never be able to do, though, and that is to get their watches into an authorized Omega dealer. If you purchase from a trusted authorized dealer, you are guaranteed to have an authentic timepiece.
If your budget restricts you from purchasing brand new, take a look at their pre-owned inventory. If a watch shop is an authorized Omega dealer, you can rest assured that their preowned examples are also authentic.
The further your seller dilutes themselves from the original Omega source, the higher the risk is for you as a buyer. This is not to say that you shouldn’t trust any seller that is not an authorized dealer, just that you need to accept the fact that extra effort is required on your part to verify the piece you are looking to purchase is genuine.
Conclusion
If you are lucky enough to be considering a new or preowned Omega watch, congratulations! You are truly going to love your new timepiece. If you’re still saving and able to delay the gratification of the “New Watch Alert” post for a little while longer, save up until you can buy from a trusted source.
If you find a watch that seems like a good value and passes the guidelines we have presented here, spend a couple of extra dollars to have the watch authenticated by an authorized Omega dealer, preferably before you separate from your hard-earned cash.
That nominal fee will be worth every penny, whether it gives you peace of mind or prevents you from making a costly mistake. If you are browsing watches and find something that looks too good to be true, it probably is! Regardless of how cheap you are, don’t be tempted by the possibility of being able to score the deal of a lifetime due to someone else’s ignorance or need to sell something ASAP.
In this day and age, nobody is ignorant enough to list something without first doing a google search or impatient enough to give up thousands of dollars for the sake of selling a few hours sooner (you can price a watch aggressively to sell and not necessarily give it away).
Sometimes it’s obvious what we should avoid; other times, even seasoned collectors can end up bamboozled. If you do your research and follow these guidelines, you can ensure that you are enjoying an authentic Omega watch and greatly reduce the risk of making a costly mistake.
The Omega Seamaster 120 is a model that’s not discussed very often, but that’s beginning to change (right here, in fact!). While the history of the legendary Seamaster 300 is well documented, the Seamaster 120 requires a little more in-depth (pun intended) research.
Whether you’re looking for an Omega Seamaster 120 review, a chronology of the reference, or just a few photos of this beautiful timepiece, it’s not always easy to find. That’s why we decided to compile this handy buying guide to offer whatever you may be looking for all in one place.
Omega Seamaster 120 History and Defining Characteristics
The Omega Seamaster range was launched by the vaunted brand in 1957. It coincided with the simultaneous releases of the Speedmaster and Railmaster lines and marked the beginning of Omega’s foray into the world of dedicated dive watches.
The original Seamaster 300 had a depth rating of 200 meters. At the time, 200 meters of water resistance was more than enough for the casual diver, let alone the average suburbanite who was more likely to wade in the local swimming pool than the ocean.
In 1966, Omega launched the Seamaster 120, a smaller version of the Seamaster 300, with a depth rating of 60 meters. The idea behind the Seamaster 120 was to offer a more affordable version of the Seamaster to a customer base that was more likely to wear it while driving their Barracuda than diving next to one.
While, in 1966, the Seamaster 300 had a case size of 42mm, the Seamaster 120 came in at a more diminutive 37mm, making it a better fit for the office or a backyard barbecue. There was also a 31mm women-sized case available.
Aside from the case size being different than its forebearer, the Seamaster 120 also had a slightly different case shape. Omega utilized a cushion-styled tonneau-shaped case, which offered a slightly more elegant wear than the tool-styled case of the Seamaster 300.
Overall, the Seamaster 120 was a popular alternative to the Seamaster 300, which is why you can still find several vintage pieces available for sale on the secondary market. The following are the most common references and basic price ranges for the Seamaster 120.
Seamaster 120 References and Pricing
Omega Ref. 135.027
Movement – Omega manual wind calibers 601, 611
Power reserve – 48 hours
Complications – N/A
Beat rate – 19,800 VPH
Price range – $2200 – $3200
Dial – Black
This 17-jewel variant was the first iteration of the Seamaster 120. In comparison with later models, it may seem like a somewhat bare-bones option with a manual wind movement and no date complication. However, this is also a big part of its vintage charm.
Prices for this reference fall between $2200 – $3200
Omega Ref. 136.027
Movement – Omega manual wind caliber 613
Power reserve – 48 hours
Complications – Date
Beat rate – 19,800 VPH
Price range – $2000 – $2800
Dial – Black
The next Seamaster 120 model for Omega saw little change in form and function, with one exception. This version included an updated movement that came with a date complication, evidenced by the three o’clock date window and white date wheel.
Prices for this reference fall between $2000 – $2800
Omega Ref. 165.027
Movement – Omega automatic caliber 554
Power reserve – 50 hours
Complications – N/A
Beat rate – 19,800 VPH
Price range – $2200 – $3200
Dial – Black
This reference had an upgraded automatic caliber, which also increased the power reserve by two hours to 50 hours. It also had no date function, unlike its predecessor.
Prices for this reference fall between $3800 – $4700
Omega Ref. 166.027
Movement – Omega caliber 565
Power reserve – 50 hours
Complications – Date
Beat rate – 19,800 VPH
Price range – $3,000 – 11,000
Dial – Black
This model is virtually the same as the 165.027, except that it included a date window at the three o’clock position.
Prices for this reference fall between $3500 – $4500
Omega Ref. 166.073 ST
Movement – Omega caliber 565
Power reserve – 50 hours
Complications – Date
Beat rate – 19,800 VPH
Price range – $4300 – $9900
Dial – Blue
This reference had the same technical specs as Ref. 166.027, although it had sharp sword hands, a bakelite bezel, and a deep blue dial and bezel color. It also had a major dial “shakeup” with the widening of the white luminescent indices and the addition of short applied stick indices on top of those.
Prices for this reference fall between $4300 – $6500
Considerations When Buying a Seamaster 120
Mechanical Considerations
Buying any vintage watch can be a nerve-wracking experience, and searching for the perfect Seamaster 120 is no different. When shopping for a vintage watch, the mechanical functioning and accuracy are of the utmost importance. Be sure to wind the movement and check that it functions properly. If the watch is mechanically solid, then ensuring it’s authentic is the next factor in making your choice.
Authenticity
Being a vintage watch, any Seamaster 120 will likely show some wear and tear unless it’s a NEW OLD STOCK model. So, make sure that the timepiece looks its age. Beyond that, there are a few things you can check for to make sure it’s authentic.
The case of the Seamaster 120 has a small notch in the case at three and six o’clock when looking at the watch from the side. The case back should also have a Seamaster engraving in the center, which is relatively shallow. The automatic case backs are slightly domed, while the manual wind versions are flat.
Buy the Seller
To avoid purchasing a less-than-authentic Seamaster 120, you should only buy from reputable sellers. Even if you purchase from an individual, asking them for references is perfectly acceptable. Be sure to verify the integrity of the seller’s claims by researching their sales history.
Service and Ownership History
You’ll also want to ask for any service history paperwork the seller may have. While many people dispose of receipts and other records of service, some keep meticulous records, which is a convenient way to verify how well the watch was cared for. Along with the service paperwork, you can also ask for a history of the watch’s ownership.
While the seller may not know the entire history of the watch, they may be able to tell you who they purchased it from and how long that owner had it. Any bit of information you can gather helps you to piece together the history of the watch, giving you a clearer picture of what you’re buying.
Where to Buy a Seamaster 120
You can find well-cared-for models of the Omega Seamaster 120 at a number of different outlets, both online and in person. While buying a vintage watch from an individual is not necessarily bad, it’s best to purchase through an online marketplace or another professional intermediary to ensure your investment is made with a reputable source.
Always do your research before buying any luxury watch. Sites like exquisitetimepieces.com (that’s us!), crownandcaliber.com, and even chrono24.com all offer a wide selection of watches and some form of guarantee to protect you when you purchase from them.
A Greatly Underappreciated Model
While the Omega Seamaster 300 is rightfully the top dog in the Omega dive watch hierarchy, the vintage Omega Seamaster 120 is a greatly underappreciated model that’s quickly gaining a cult following. So if you’re a lover of classic designs and want to buy a watch with some under-the-radar collectability, then the Seamster 120 might just be the perfect vintage pool to dip your toes into.
One of the first brands many watch enthusiasts discover in this incredible journey of watch collecting is Omega. Whether your discovery occurs as a natural progression or simply a search for “Best Rolex Alternatives”, few brands can match the experience and product offering that Omega can.
They have some of the most iconic timepieces to their credit, from the space-dwelling Omega Speedmaster to the versatile master of town, sea, and country Omega Seamaster.
Despite the undeniable history and legacy of the Omega Speedmaster, I have always been more of a Seamaster fan myself. The versatility of the collection and its ability to be appropriate for any situation have made these watches the grail of many watch collectors.
History of Omega Seamaster
The Omega Seamaster began in 1948 as the 100th anniversary of the brand. Initially built off the success of simple time-only watches of World War II, these watches featured the same robust construction and caliber 30T2 architecture but housed in a more elegant design.
They could still tackle any environment from town, sea, and country, but their ability to serve as a dive watch wouldn’t come until almost a decade later, in 1957. The Omega Seamaster 300 and Omega Seamaster Railmaster, released in 1957, would come to identify the range through to the current collection.
Omega continued to release bezel-free watches that offered unique colors and functionality, from time only to world timers and virtually everything in between. The Aqua Terra, originally released in 2002, based heavily on the Seamaster 120 from years previous, is the current execution of the original Seamaster line. They are robust, capable, and distinctly classy.
The 1950s and 1960s saw the Mil-Spec design aesthetic of the Seamaster 300 that defined many watches of the era. The 1970s would see the introduction of the Ploprof 600, a saturation-capable monstrosity that was over-engineered and competed head-to-head with the Rolex Sea-Dweller.
The 1980s was a weird time for the Seamaster and Omega in general. Omega focused on quartz technology and not so subtly took some design cues from their main competitor Rolex. Thankfully for Omega, and all watch enthusiasts, the 1990s were a return to form for Omega, who found great success with their Bond partnership and the Seamaster Diver 300 that accompanied it and remains the basis of design for their current lineup.
In addition to the current flagship offering, the current Seamaster has a line of divers capable of saturation diving. First with the quirky Ploprof, mentioned earlier, and most recently with the more subdued Planet Ocean line of divers. Fortunately for those of us who adore the vintage aesthetic from their dive heritage, Omega also has a Seamaster 300 line that pulls from the 1950s design with modern specifications.
Omega Seamaster Characteristics
Many of the timepieces we see today in the Seamaster collection would fall firmly into the dive watch category. However, some modern timepieces harken back to the original design identity of those bezel-free beauties. The true value of the current collection comes in the sheer variety available for consumers.
Pick your color, style, functionality, and even historical inspiration. Omega most likely has a Seamaster to fit your needs (if not, just give it a few more years; Omega has no problem milking this cash cow, rightfully so!). Although no official requirement exists, the original Omega Seamaster mantra for town, sea, and country best summarizes the collection.
These watches are versatile everyday pieces that, despite leaning casual or sporty, won’t look out of place in almost any environment. Now that we know a little more about the history and variety available let’s take a look at 15 of the best examples of Omega Seamaster watches. With the variety available within the lineup, this list was harder to put together than I expected.
Why not kick this list off with the modern interpretation of what many people think when they hear Seamaster. The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M is the current offering of the brand’s most iconic watch within the lineup.
After the success of the Bond partnership initially seen on the wrist of Pierce Brosnan in the Goldeneye blockbuster of 1995, this general design was cemented as one of the many iconic models within the Omega brand. The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, ref. 210.30.42.20.03.00 features a 42m stainless steel case with the iconic wave motif laser etched into a blue ceramic dial.
Matching the dial is the blue ceramic bezel insert, giving this watch a similar color combination to the original but in a very modern luxurious way. As the name implies, this watch provides a 300M water resistance thanks in part to its love-it-or-hate-it helium escape valve.
This Seamaster is powered by the METAS-Certified in-house caliber 8800, featuring a Co-Axial escapement and free-sprung balance with a silicon balance spring that provides a 15,000-gauss magnetic resistance. Coming in at $5600 on the stainless steel bracelet, this example represents one of the most affordable and iconic examples of the illustrious Seamaster line.
The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra is, in many ways, the modern interpretation of the original Seamaster DNA. Before the release of the Seamaster with a rotatable bezel aimed at professional divers, the Seamaster was an everyday watch.
A reliable movement, simple design, and robust construction helped to separate the original Seamaster from the competition. The Aqua Terra does the same thing, albeit with some more luxurious touches. The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra, ref. 220.10.41.21.01.001 features a 41mm stainless steel case with a stainless steel bracelet.
Although available in several color iterations, the black dial with a teak pattern provides the clearest example of this model range. The twisted lugs and arrow minute hand help to give the bezel-less design a sportier look and feel.
The 150M of water resistance and robust caliber 8900 ensure this watch is up to almost any task you can throw at it. In the world of versatile watches, few can compete with the Aqua Terra. Coming in at a price of $5900, these watches offer a very compelling option to anyone on the hunt for the “one watch collection”.
The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean is a great example of modern specification melding perfectly with vintage design cues. The 600M of water resistance ensures that this model line can accompany you on any adventure you can throw its way. What really helps this watch stand out, however, is its subtle nod to the past.
This watch is by no means a vintage re-edition, but several easter eggs are sprinkled throughout the design. The broad arrow handset and Arabic numerals on the dial are reminiscent of the original 1957 Seamaster 300, while the ceramic bezel and helium escape valve are very modern features borrowed from the previously mentioned Omega Seamaster Diver 300M.
The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M (ref. 215.30.44.21.01.002) features a 43.5mm stainless steel case with a stainless steel bracelet. The black dial is accented with pops of orange in the numerals and second hand, which also carry over to the first 15 minutes of the ceramic bezel insert.
The helium escape valve is still a marmite feature in the Omega Seamaster collection, but it does feel slightly more appropriate on a watch boasting 600-meter water resistance.
The caliber 8900 in this watch matches the functionality on the outside with the 15,000-gauss magnetic resistance and free-sprung balance.
There is a slight premium of $6700 over the standard Seamaster Diver 300M, but given the extra specification and prices of rival Rolex’s Sea-Dweller line, the watch provides a lot of value for the money.
In the watch world, few endorsements carry as much weight as that of Mr. Bond, James Bond. The Omega Seamaster has been the watch brand of choice for Bond since the 1995 Goldeneye release, and since then, there has been no shortage of limited editions to commemorate the partnership.
The latest iteration of this partnership has undoubtedly struck a chord, not just with Bond fans but with watch enthusiasts in general. The Omega Seamaster “No Time To Die” (ref. 210.90.42.20.01.001) features the same size and case shape as the standard Omega Seamaster Diver 300M but is housed in grade 2 titanium while sporting a modern caliber 8806 movement.
The watch is paired with a mesh titanium bracelet that features an adjustable buckle. The true showstopper for this watch is the vintage aesthetic. Where Omega generally leans into the modern aesthetic with the Diver 300M line, this watch looks like it was plucked right out of the 1950s. The Bond branding is subtle, featuring a British MOD arrow and an inscription on the back of the watch.
This watch will set you back $9500, which is a fairly substantial premium over the standard model. But, given the innovative case material, unique design, and Bond partnership, this watch is worthy of the price.
Sticking with the vintage-inspired theme, let’s look at the Omega Seamaster 300, ref. 234.30.41.21.01.001. This model is based on the Omega Seamaster introduced in 1957 alongside the Railmaster and Speedmaster collections.
The current model features a 41mm stainless steel case powered by the time-only caliber 8912. A couple of color variations are available for this model, but the black dial with a matching black bezel stays true to the original design.
The dial sports a healthy amount of “fauxtina” on the hands, indices, and Arabic numerals. The color has been matched on the anodized aluminum bezel insert, which helps give this timepiece a cohesive vintage aesthetic.
Coming in at $6700 on the stainless steel bracelet, this watch features much of what the “No Time to Die” offers in a smaller and more historically accurate package.
Although this watch will ultimately appeal to a different type of collector than many of the more modern designs, you will have the same construction and specification as any Seamaster in the current lineup.
As mentioned earlier, 1957 was a big year for Omega. Omega redefined their collection by releasing the Seamaster 300 and Speedmaster while introducing another new product line to the trilogy. The third and often overlooked model in that trilogy is the Omega Seamaster Railmaster.
The Railmaster line was originally introduced as a timepiece for engineers, much like the original Milgauss from Rolex. The Omega Seamaster Railmaster, ref. 220.10.40.20.01.001, is a modern interpretation of this original design ethos. The anti-magnetic properties that helped distinguish this product line from the other 3 hand models of the day are still present (as it is with any modern Omega Seamaster) thanks to the caliber 8806.
The 40mm stainless steel case is a more modern case size but still carries the everyday wearability of the original. The Railmaster dial and handset have a “fauxtina” appearance drawing upon the vintage inspiration, while the dial itself in charcoal gray features a unique dial pattern that leans into the modern aesthetic and build quality.
Coming in at a price of $5200, this watch presents a great entry point into the world of Omega that perfectly blends where they have been with where they are now.
When comparing complications for tool watches, many people are torn between the timing dive bezel and the chronograph function. Both of these complications provide extra functionality and help to give a timepiece a unique look. Who says you can’t have your cake and eat it too? Omega has provided several examples of these diving chronographs, perhaps none better than what they provide in their current collection.
The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph, ref. 210.30.44.51.01.001, is a beefed-up 44mm stainless steel watch that features much of the design language of the standard Diver 300M. The ceramic dial and bezel and dial with wave motif are both present, as is the helium escape valve.
What helps this watch stand out is the chronograph function made possible by the caliber 9900. This movement provides many of the features we have come to expect with current Omega movements and adds the functionality of a column wheel chronograph.
Amazingly this watch still features a 300M water resistance, which is especially impressive when you consider the chronograph Omega is most known for is only rated for 50M. If you are looking for a very robust and functional chronograph watch, this Omega for $8100 is one of the best options available from any brand.
If the dive bezel and chronograph aren’t quite your cup of tea, but you still want something more than a time-only design, Omega still has something for you. The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT “GoodPlanet”, ref. 231.90.43.22.04.001, is a 43mm grade 5 titanium watch with a crisp white dial and blue hands and indices.
As the name suggests, this Aqua Terra has a little trick up its sleeve and that comes thanks to the caliber 8605 and its “traveler style” GMT functionality. This movement allows for the changing of the hour hand without stopping the minutes or seconds hands.
Although this feature is not a requirement for a GMT watch, it is often seen as the more elegant style of GMT functionality. The partnership with GoodPlanet, which aids in environmental conservation, ensures you can feel as good about your purchase of $10,800 as the watch will look on your wrist.
When it comes to precision timekeeping, there are few requirements as stringent as the Olympic Games. The difference between a medal and not can often be determined by mere fractions of a second. Since 1932 this responsibility has fallen on the shoulders of Omega.
They have only continued to perfect their craft in the time since, and their latest 2,032-piece limited edition is evidence of this fact. The Omega Seamaster Olympic Official Timekeeper, ref. 522.32.40.20.01.001, sports a 39.5mm bezel-free stainless steel case. The black dial is surrounded by a wide white chapter ring with blue accents on the dial as well as a matching blue seconds hand.
This watch is inspired by the more colorful examples from the late 1960s and 1970s, such as the Dynamic range. Powering this movement is the very capable caliber 8800. If you are looking for a more adventurous design from some of the others on this list, at $5,600, this Seamaster is a great option to go with whether you’re a fan of the Olympics or not.
When the Seamaster was originally released in 1948, the design was more reminiscent of what we consider a dress watch by today’s standards. Despite its robustness for the time, the simple center seconds or sub seconds models are very classically designed.
These early vintage examples have been a great entryway into the Omega Seamaster line for many watch enthusiasts that appreciate the aesthetic and can rock a 33mm-35mm timepiece. In 2018, Omega decided to reintroduce these original models while making some concessions to appease modern tastes.
The Omega Seamaster 1948, ref. 511.13.38.20.02.002, features a beefed-up 38mm stainless steel case based on the center seconds model released in 1948. The dial, except for the “Co-Axial Master Chronometer” text, is a nearly identical match to the original it is paying homage to.
As the writing on the dial indicates, the Co-Axial caliber 8806 takes the specification of this watch well into the modern era. The thick lugs, knurled crown, and an etched crystal, now made of modern sapphire, help keep the original design’s charm while providing all of the enhancements the last 70 years have provided.
Coming in at a price of $6600, this Seamaster is a considerable amount more than the originals from 70 years previous. But, given the modern specification and historically accurate charm, this Seamaster is one of the best vintage reeditions from any brand.
When looking at the current Omega Seamaster lineup, few watches truly stand out from others in the lineup. That is in no way taking away from the design language of the Seamaster, simply pointing out the fact that besides some minor quirks like the helium escape valve, the Seamaster line is a modern example of traditional watch design.
That wasn’t always the case for Omega. They were once known for some truly unique designs that did anything but played it safe. The first of these we will look at is a recreation of the 1969 chronograph that literally turned the watch world on its head.
The Omega Seamaster Bullhead Chronograph, ref. 225.12.43.50.01.001, is a modern interpretation of the original 1969 Bullhead Chronograph that came to define the style. Coming in at 43mm X 43mm and housed in a stainless steel case, this watch is not one that will go unnoticed.
The unique placement of the crowns and pushers really sets this watch apart. The placement at the top and bottom serves two functions. First, it allows the user to activate the chronograph pushers while in a more natural position for reading the time, and second, it improves the wearability on the wrist. This watch is powered by a caliber 3113 with Co-Axial escapement and a 52-hour power reserve.
With the addition of an internal rotatable bezel, this watch is as functional as it is funky. Although limited to 669 pieces, a low number by Omega limited-edition standards and lack of availability brand new, this once $9600 timepiece can be had for even less if you’re willing to let someone else put the first few scratches on it.
When looking at quirky models within the Omega Seamaster line, one watch stands above the rest. The Omega Ploprof was originally developed back in 1971 after 3 years of prototypes to help design a watch capable of reaching 600M.
The Monoblock stainless steel case, an extra thick crystal, and unique bezel locking mechanism were engineered so meticulously that they would not even allow the tiny helium molecules to enter the watch and present challenges after decompression.
Unfortunately for Omega, Rolex built upon their Submariner lineup and made some slight enhancements, including a simple helium escape system that made for a safe method for helium to enter and exit the watch, effectively solving the problem in a much simpler way.
That doesn’t mean this Omega Seamaster Ploprof isn’t one incredible piece of kit, though! The Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M, ref. 227.90.55.21.04.001, is the modern interpretation of this iconic design. The case shape, with its unique bezel lock and crown guard system, remains, as does the signature mesh bracelet.
The case measures in at an eye-watering 55mm X 48mm, but thanks to the grade 5 titanium of the case and grade 2 of the bracelet the watch comes in at 172 grams. Despite the large dimension, this watch is surprisingly wearable for those with above-average wrists.
The depth rating has been doubled from the original 600M to a very impressive 1200M. The watch is powered by the caliber 8912, ensuring that the functionality on the outside of this Ploprof is matched by what’s on the inside. Coming in at a price of $12,600, this absolute spec monster provides exceptional functionality with a design that is all its own.
Just when you think 1200M is overkill, Omega comes out and releases a watch that makes that look like a dip in the pool. The race to the bottom between Rolex and Omega has been well documented. But, in a nutshell, these two brands can’t help but produce watches that one up the other regardless of their practical significance to the end user.
In 2019, Omega dealt their latest blow in the form of a commercially available watch that can reach 6000M. The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 6000M, ref. 215.30.46.21.03.001, is a 45.5mm timepiece made out of O-Megasteel that has been over-engineered in almost every way to help it achieve the 6000M depth rating.
The case and crystal are thicker, coming in at 18.1mm, but thanks to the wider case, it is still wearable for those with larger wrists. The watch is powered by the reliable caliber 8912. The real surprise with this watch is that it ultimately looks like any other Planet Ocean model, minus the helium escape valve.
For $12,000, Omega managed to do something they could not do when their Ploprof lost to the Sea-Dweller; they refined rather than reinvent the wheel.
Omega has proven several things about watch marketing with its Omega Seamaster collection. One of those is the power of partnerships, and the other is that people appreciate vintage design cues. Thankfully for us, those two marketing principles are not mutually exclusive.
Omega was able to prove this with their 2015 limited edition of the Bond franchise. The Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre Limited Edition, ref. 233.32.41.21.01.001, is a 41mm stainless steel timepiece that follows the design aesthetic from the original 1957 Seamaster 300 and is powered by the Co-Axial caliber 8400.
The major difference is the 12-hour timing bezel that helped to give this vintage-inspired timepiece a new look and functionality. This 7007-piece limited edition is the watch worn by Mr. Bond during the blockbuster movie Spectre.
This timepiece has long sold out but can still be found pre-owned for roughly $10,000, representing an intriguing option for any Bond or Omega enthusiast.
While putting together this list of great Seamaster watches, one thing stood out to me. Many of these watches wouldn’t be here without the great designs in Omega’s historical archives. The 1950s and 1960s developed Omega’s traditional design language, while the 1970s gave us some of the quirky designs that helped break Omega out of that shell.
It wasn’t until the mid-1990s that those two sides of Omega truly blended and gave us a unique design language that felt more traditional and less quirky. The Omega Seamaster Professional 300M, ref. 2531.80.00, although not the very first reference to bear this design, is the watch many people think of when they hear Omega Seamaster.
The cameo in Goldeneye and the N64 classic video game that accompanied it proved that partnerships, when done correctly, can work! The watch became an overnight success and still remains popular among us nostalgia-chasing watch enthusiasts who remember the countless hours wasted with friends battling for Bond supremacy.
The watch itself features a 41mm stainless steel case with an aluminum bezel insert. Although available in a few color iterations, the blue dial and blue bezel is the true icon. The wave motif and skeletonized sword hands are present and very reminiscent of the models in the current lineup.
This watch featured the caliber 1120, based on the ETA 2892. It may not feature many of the great enhancements of their current Co-Axial range, but it is a reliable and beautiful movement nonetheless. The preowned market has been steadily increasing for this model, but you can expect to pay roughly $3000 for a good example. Considering the history and design, this is a watch I could picture saying, “I wish I bought it when I could”.
Conclusion
There you have it, 15 of the best Omega Seamaster references. With so much variety in the product line, it is hard to believe that all of these options bear the Seamaster branding. Whether you are looking for a time-tested icon or simply a great everyday piece to accompany you on any adventure, the Omega Seamaster has the option to satisfy your needs.
Thankfully, unlike their main competitor Rolex, you’ll even have the opportunity to go to an Authorized Dealer and try a few on. Regardless of which model you settle on, the Omega Seamaster is definitely worthy of at least 1 spot in any watch box.
When it comes to legendary dive watches, two names stand out: Omega Seamaster and Rolex Submariner. These timepiece titans have left an indelible mark on the watch industry with their exceptional craftsmanship and enduring appeal.
In this article, we will compare and contrast the Omega Seamaster and Rolex Submariner, delving into their rich histories, unique features, target audiences, build quality, movements, and value retention.
As we focus on proper diving watches, I will not include the Omega Aqua Terra subcollection here due to its 150m water resistance and the absence of a rotating bezel.
Now, whether you’re a watch enthusiast, collector, or diving professional, take a deep breath and follow me through the depths of one of watchmaking’s biggest rivalries, and, by the end, you’ll know which side you stand on.
About the Omega Seamaster
Since its inception in 1948, the Omega Seamaster has carved an illustrious path through horological history. Born out of inspiration from World War II military timepieces, the Seamaster was initially conceived as a water-resistant companion for the adventurous souls of that era.
History
The Seamaster collection has encountered numerous significant milestones, each a testament to its evolution and unwavering pursuit of excellence. In 1957, Omega introduced the Seamaster 300, heralding the dawn of a new era in diving watches.
In 1969, the Seamaster Bullhead entered the horological stage, captivating the hearts of timepiece aficionados. In the early 1970s, Omega unveiled the Seamaster Ploprof, catering to the audacious souls exploring the depths of the oceans.
In 1993, the Seamaster Diver 300M emerged as a beacon of modern dive watches. In 2005, the Planet Ocean collection emerged, boldly pushing the limits of water resistance. In 2018, the Seamaster Diver 300M resurfaced with renewed vigor, boasting the innovative in-house caliber 8800 movement.
Unique Characteristics
When it comes to the Omega Seamaster watches, there are a few unique characteristics that set them apart from the crowd. They are built to withstand the ocean’s depths, with water resistance capabilities up to an impressive 120 bar or 1200 meters (4000 feet).
Additionally, many Omega Seamaster models boast the Co-Axial Escapement, a patented movement renowned for its exceptional accuracy and durability. This innovative technology ensures that these watches keep precise time, making them a favorite among enthusiasts and professionals. Finally, Seamaster models offer much more choice in terms of complications than the Submariner.
Target Audience for the Seamaster
The Omega Seamaster collection appeals to a wide range of individuals with diverse interests and preferences. The Seamaster 1948 models attract those who appreciate the elegance of vintage timepieces.
With their professional features and robustness, the Seamaster 300 and Diver 300M collections appeal to diving enthusiasts who require reliable timepieces underwater. Finally, the Planet Ocean and Ploprof collections cater to individuals who need high water resistance and durability in extreme diving conditions.
About the Rolex Submariner
The Rolex Submariner is widely regarded as one of the absolute most iconic and influential sports watches of all time. Since its introduction in 1953, the Submariner has set the standard for diving watches, featuring incredible innovations that revolutionized the industry. With its rich history, unique characteristics, and broad appeal, the Submariner continues to be a milestone in watch collections worldwide.
History
The Submariner is the result of Rolex’s relentless pursuit of waterproof watches, which began in the early 20th century. In 1926, Rolex introduced the Oyster case, a groundbreaking development that made wristwatches water-resistant.
Building upon this success, Rolex released the first fully-fledged dive watch, the Submariner, in 1953. The Submariner incorporated key technologies from the Oyster case and the self-winding Perpetual movement, making it a purpose-built dive watch.
Unique Characteristics of the Collection
Throughout its history, the Rolex Submariner has maintained a visually consistent design with incremental improvements in its internal movements. Rolex’s approach has been evolutionary rather than revolutionary, showcasing the brand’s commitment to perfecting their timepieces. As a result, the Submariner remains one of the least visually altered models in Rolex’s lineup.
One of the Submariner’s standout features is its superior bezel precision and haptics. With each click, the bezel rotates smoothly and precisely, providing an unparalleled tactile experience that is hard to match. Another notable characteristic is the inclusion of the triplock crown, which enhances the watch’s water resistance and ensures a secure seal.
Additionally, the Submariner boasts a durable Cerachrom bezel crafted from high-tech ceramic material. This bezel not only offers excellent scratch resistance but also maintains its vibrant color over time, adding to the watch’s overall appeal.
Target Audience of the Collection
The Rolex Submariner has a broad target audience that encompasses watch enthusiasts, collectors, and divers. As the most iconic and influential sports watch, the Submariner appeals to individuals who appreciate a timepiece with a rich history and cultural significance.
The Submariner’s popularity among fans of the James Bond franchise further adds to its allure and solidifies its status as a symbol of sophistication and adventure.
Omega Seamaster vs Rolex Submariner: Which One Should You Choose
With both divers being so iconic, it often comes down to personal preference. However, there are a few factors to consider when choosing between the Omega and Rolex:
Brand Recognition
The Rolex Submariner holds a legendary status in the watch world, backed by its rich history and widespread recognition as the quintessential dive watch. On the other hand, the Omega Seamaster 300M may not have the same level of brand recognition as the Submariner, but it follows very closely.
Model Options
The Seamaster collection offers many options to choose from, whereas the Submariner collection is compact and efficient, featuring almost exclusively best-sellers.
Omega Seamaster Diver 300m
The Seamaster Diver 300m subcollection has 45 models, including steel, bicolor, gold, ceramic, titanium, and tantalum cases. Water resistance is 30 bar across the collection.
Sizes range from 28mm to 44mm, with the most common being 42mm, catering to different wrist preferences. Strap options include steel, bicolor, gold, nato, rubber, titanium, and tantalum, offering customization and comfort.
Dial colors vary, including white, grey, black, blue, brown, and green, providing versatility. Movements are all self-winding, except for the 28mm quartz model.
Complications include chronograph, time zone, regatta timing, and small seconds (they are considered a complication in notable circles in Swiss’ “Vallée de Joux”).
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean
The Seamaster Planet Ocean subcollection offers 68 models in steel, bicolor, gold, ceramic, or titanium cases. Sizes range from 37.5mm to 45.5mm. These watches have impressive water resistance ratings, from 60 bar to 600 bar, suitable for very advanced diving operations.
Strap options include steel, bicolor, titanium, nato, leather, and rubber. Dial colors include white, grey, black, blue, and brown. Calibers are self-winding, and complications include chronograph, GMT, worldtimer, date, regatta timing, and small seconds.
Omega Seamaster Heritage
The Seamaster Heritage subcollection has 23 diving models: 20 Seamaster 300 and 3 Ploprof models. They feature steel cases with options in bicolor, gold, titanium, and platinum.
Sizes range from 39mm to 41mm. Water resistance varies from 30 bar to 120 bar. Straps include steel, bicolor, gold, titanium, and leather. Dial colors are white, grey, black, blue, and green. Calibers are self-winding. Complications include a chronograph and a time zone function.
Rolex Submariner
The Rolex Submariner collection offers a range of 8 models. They come in variations of steel, bicolor, yellow gold, and one variation in white gold.
All models are sized at 41mm. Water resistance is established at 30 bar for all models. The bracelets match the case material. The dial colors are limited to classic choices of black or blue. The movements are self-winding. Some models feature the added functionality of a date complication.
Build Quality
The Omega Seamaster 300M and Rolex Submariner diverge in dial and haptic quality. The Seamaster features a well-manufactured dial with captivating laser-etched waves, surpassing the Submariner in this aspect.
However, the Submariner excels haptically with a smooth bracelet, precise edges, satisfying clasp, and a remarkable dive bezel. The Submariner’s bezel is widely regarded as the best in the market. In contrast, the Seamaster’s ceramic bezel falls short, lacking precision and haptic satisfaction. Omega has room for improvement in addressing this discrepancy.
Movements
When it comes to the Omega Seamaster and Rolex Submariner collections, two significant calibers take the spotlight: the Omega 8800 and the Rolex 3230. These movements are the powerhouses that drive the most important timepieces of their respective collections.
Both the Omega 8800 and the Rolex 3230 are exceptional watch movements, and determining which one is the “best” depends on personal preferences and specific requirements. Let’s compare some key features and characteristics of both calibers:
Omega Caliber 8800
In-House Movement: The 8800 is developed and manufactured by Omega, showcasing their expertise in movement production.
Anti-Magnetic: It is highly resistant to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss, ensuring accurate timekeeping even in magnetic environments.
Power Reserve: The movement has a power reserve of 55 hours, providing a decent duration between windings.
Certification: It is certified as a chronometer by COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) and meets the strict criteria of the Omega Master Chronometer specification.
Accuracy: The stated accuracy of the movement is 0 to +5 seconds per day.
Rolex Caliber 3230
In-House Movement: The 3230 is an in-house movement developed by Rolex, reflecting their commitment to craftsmanship and precision.
Extended Power Reserve: It boasts an impressive power reserve of approximately 70 hours, allowing for extended periods without winding.
Anti-Shock System: It features the Paraflex shock absorbers, enhancing the movement’s shock resistance and reliability.
Certification: The movement is certified as a chronometer, indicating its high precision and accuracy. It combines COSC certification with Rolex’s own stringent Superlative Chronometer standards.
Accuracy: The stated accuracy of the movement is -2 to +2 seconds per day.
Both movements are self-winding (automatic) and offer reliable timekeeping. They are also equipped with anti-shock systems and exhibit high-quality finishes.
The Omega 8800 movement excels in anti-magnetic properties and is certified as a Master Chronometer, while the Rolex 3230 provides an extended power reserve and is certified as a Superlative Chronometer.
Price & Availability
The availability of the Seamaster and the Submariner differs significantly. The Omega Seamaster watches are generally more accessible, with availability at major retailers and a lack of waitlists, except for limited edition models.
On the other hand, the Rolex Submariner, being a highly coveted timepiece, presents a different scenario. Obtaining a Submariner from an official Rolex boutique often involves a lengthy waiting period and no guarantee of availability. The waitlist can vary greatly, and the exact duration is uncertain.
While the concept of a waiting list adds to the allure of the Submariner, it can be a hassle for potential buyers. Repeat customers with a history with their authorized Rolex retailer tend to have a higher chance of acquiring the desired model. For those seeking immediate ownership, exploring the secondary market may be a more viable option.
Prices of current Omega Seamaster watches
The price range of Omega Seamaster watches extends from around $3,000 up to more than $200,000. However, the majority of Omega Seamaster models fall within the $5,000 to $10,000 range. On the secondary market, prices for these timepieces are typically 15% to 30% lower compared to their retail prices.
Prices of current Rolex Submariner watches
The prices stretch from $9,100 for the classic steel model up to $42,000 for full gold versions. It’s worth noting that prices of Submariner watches on the secondary market are typically several tens of percent higher than their retail prices due to their rarity and proven tendency to increase in value.
Value Retention & Investment
The Omega Seamaster 300M and Rolex Submariner both demonstrate a strong ability to retain their value over time, making them potentially good investments in the luxury watch market. The Seamaster 300M, priced at just under $6,000, offers excellent value for money and competes favorably with the iconic Submariner in terms of performance. However, it usually doesn’t appreciate in value like the Submariner.
The Submariner, priced higher than the Seamaster, not only retains its value but also has the potential to substantially increase in value over time, being highly coveted among collectors. Vintage Submariners, especially those with unique design traits, can command high prices, with some even reaching six figures.
The Submariner’s popularity has led to a surplus of counterfeits in the resale market, emphasizing its value and desirability. Rare and discontinued models like the “Hulk” and “Kermit” are particularly sought after. The Submariner’s attention to detail and continuous upgrades contribute to its enduring appeal.
Overall, the Rolex Submariner has demonstrated remarkable value appreciation between 1994 and 2016, for example, when its value grew by 297%, more than tripling its price.
With a 42mm case, 49.9mm lug-to-lug measurement, and 13.6mm thickness, it offers a comfortable and well-proportioned fit on the wrist. Crafted from stainless steel, the case presents a sporty satin finish, complete with a crown guard and curved lugs for a pleasant wearing experience.
The exhibition case back provides a glimpse into the impressive METAS-certified in-house movement, demonstrating superior craftsmanship and attention to detail. The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal ensures optimal clarity, complementing the captivating blue dial.
The lightweight ceramic bezel, featuring white enamel markings and an innovative scalloped design, adds a touch of modernity and sophistication. The stainless steel “Tank Tread” bracelet, with its brushed and polished finishes, offers a distinctive and comfortable wearing experience.
Powered by the Omega Master Chronometer 8800 caliber, this watch delivers exceptional accuracy, resistance to magnetic fields, and a generous 55-hour power reserve. With a water resistance of 300 meters and a helium escape valve, it is the perfect companion for professional divers.
The Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200m is a bold and distinctive dive watch. With a 55 x 48 mm case, it has a substantial presence on the wrist. Crafted from lightweight and durable titanium, the monobloc case features polished edges, brushed sides, and sandblasted areas.
The sapphire crystal ensures excellent visibility, while the bidirectional steel bezel offers solid clicks and luminous indices for enhanced functionality. The watch comes with a titanium bracelet and a Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8912 movement, providing a power reserve of approximately 60 hours. With a water resistance rating of 1,200 meters, the Ploprof is designed for extreme depths.
The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph has a 44mm steel case with polished and brushed finishes and a 52.8mm lug-to-lug measurement. The watch features a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and a stainless steel bezel with a ceramic insert. The bracelet has a multi-link design with brushed and polished finishes, secured with a folding clasp.
Powering the watch is the Omega Master Chronometer caliber 9900 movement, offering precision and a 60-hour power reserve. The dial has luminous hour markers and two sub-dials for seconds, and a 12-hour chronograph. With a water resistance rating of 300 meters, it is suitable for professional diving.
The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M has a 43.5mm stainless steel case with a thickness of 16.1mm. Its lug-to-lug measurement is 49.0mm, providing a substantial wrist presence. The case, crafted from stainless steel, showcases a combination of polished and brushed finishes, offering an appealing aesthetic without being overly flashy.
The watch features a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective treatment, ensuring excellent visibility and protection against scratches. Its ceramic bezel adds durability and style, with enamel numerals and indices for contrast.
The steel bracelet includes a foldover clasp with a comfort setting and diver extension, providing a secure and comfortable fit. Powering the watch is the METAS-certified Co-Axial 8900 movement, offering exceptional reliability and accuracy. With a water resistance of 600 meters, the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M is designed for professional diving and guarantees reliability in challenging underwater conditions.
Rolex Submariner Date ref. 126610LN
The Rolex Submariner Date ref. 126610LN is a 41mm Oystersteel watch with a monobloc middle case, screw-down case back, and winding crown. It has a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with a Cyclops lens over the date, providing clear visibility.
The unidirectional rotatable bezel features a Cerachrom insert made of ceramic with platinum-coated numerals and graduations. The Oyster bracelet is made of solid links, offering durability and comfort.
The Rolex 3235 caliber powers the watch, providing improved accuracy, stability, and a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Water resistance meets the usual 30-bar standard of the Submariner collection. The watch incorporates Rolex’s Triplock triple waterproofness system.
Rolex Submariner “Bluesy” ref. 126613LB
The Rolex Submariner “Bluesy” ref. 126613LB has a 41mm case diameter and a 12.7mm thickness, slightly larger than its predecessor. The case is crafted from durable Oystersteel, known for its resistance to scratches and corrosion. Finely polished on all sides, the case is sleek, complemented by satin-finished lug hoods.
The watch features a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coatings and a Cyclops lens for magnified date visibility. Its unidirectional rotating bezel, made of yellow gold, has a blue ceramic insert with a gold time scale. The bezel’s bottle cap-like groove allows for easy grip, and a luminous pip enhances visibility in the dark.
The watch comes with a yellow Rolesor bracelet, combining Oystersteel and yellow gold, featuring the Rolex Glidelock system for length adjustment. It is powered by the Rolex 3235 movement with a power reserve of 70 hours. Water resistance is 300 meters.
Rolex Submariner “Starbucks” ref. 126610LV
The Rolex Submariner “Starbucks” ref. 126610LV is a coveted timepiece in the watch industry. Released in 2020, it gained popularity as the “Starbucks” due to its green-and-black colorway resembling the coffee chain’s logo.
The case measures 41mm in diameter and 12mm thick, with a lug-to-lug measurement of 47.6mm. Crafted from Rolex’s Oystersteel, it combines brushed and polished finishes. The caseback is a solid fluted steel piece, protecting the movement.
The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal has an anti-reflective coating. The unidirectional bezel is made of durable Cerachrom ceramic with a green insert. It features platinum-coated markings and a polished finish.
The three-link Oyster bracelet, made of Oystersteel, combines satin-finished and polished surfaces. It has an Oysterlock folding clasp with the Glidelock extension system. Powering the watch is the in-house 3235 caliber, operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour. The screw-down crown, equipped with the Triplock system, contributes to its 300m water resistance.
Rolex Submariner “Cookie Monster” ref. 126619LB
The Rolex Submariner “Cookie Monster” features a 41mm diameter case, slightly larger than the previous generation. The 18 ct white gold case follows the classic Oyster architecture. It ensures durability and water resistance. The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects the dial and features a Cyclops lens over the date window. This lens enhances date legibility.
The unidirectional rotatable bezel is made of scratch-resistant Cerachrom ceramic. The dark blue Cerachrom insert contrasts the white gold case. The platinum-coated numerals and graduations enhance visibility. The Oyster bracelet is made of 18 ct white gold and offers a comfortable fit.
It has a folding Oysterlock safety clasp and the Glidelock extension system. Powering the watch is the 3235 caliber, known for precision and reliability. It has a 70-hour power reserve. With 300m water resistance, the Submariner ref. 126619LB is suitable for recreational diving. The screw-down crown and Triplock system ensure water tightness.
Conclusion
The Omega Seamaster and Rolex Submariner are undeniably iconic dive watches with their own distinct qualities. While the Seamaster offers a wider range of models, materials, and functions at various price points, the Submariner’s enduring popularity, rarity, and timeless design make it a sought-after investment.
Ultimately, when it comes to proper diving instruments, digital diving watches take the lead in my book, as they offer a wealth of diving data that goes beyond simply tracking your time underwater and reminding you when it’s time to resurface.
However, if you’re searching for an elegant sports watch that offers great value, the Seamaster is the perfect match. On the other hand, if you’re considering your investment potential, the Submariner should definitely grab your attention.
Whichever path you choose, rest assured that you’ll be the proud owner of a stunning piece of watchmaking history.
In the world of luxury watches, two names often surface in conversations of undoubted heritage: Omega and Rolex. Both are Swiss watchmakers with a rich history and an enviable lineup of iconic models.
Models from these have graced the wrists of explorers, sportsmen, astronauts, and cinema’s most famous spy. But the question arises among enthusiasts and potential buyers, “Omega or Rolex: Which is the right watch brand for me”?
This article aims to illuminate these two world-renowned brands’ strengths, histories, and unique offerings. Comparing their brand recognition, model variety, build quality, and more, we can gain the necessary insight into the legacies of these two giants to make an informed decision on our preference.
Additionally, it’s also worth getting up close and personal with some of their most notable models. With head-to-head comparisons that scrutinize every detail, from case size to the caliber of movement and even the strap options on: the Omega Seamaster 300M vs the Rolex Submariner Date, the Omega Speedmaster vs the Rolex Daytona, and the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra vs the Rolex Oyster Perpetual.
For anyone wondering which watch would better suit your wrist and lifestyle, diving deep into the heart of Swiss watchmaking excellence will aid their choice.
About Omega Watches
Swiss watchmaking maestro, Omega SA. With a history as captivating as its timepieces’ intricate mechanisms, Omega is a true icon of the watch world.
Omega was born in the Swiss town of La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1848, founded by Louis Brandt. The company initially operated as La Generale Watch Co., assembling precision pocket watches from parts sourced from local craftsmen. The Omega name wasn’t adopted until 1903, but oh, how it has resonated since.
Precision and quality. They mark Omega’s story. This dedication wasn’t lost on Britain’s Royal Flying Corps or the U.S. Army, who selected Omega watches for their combat units in 1917 and 1918, respectively. Even NASA couldn’t resist Omega’s allure. They chose their watches for the historic Apollo 11 mission in 1969. The brand’s precision has also earned it the role of the official timekeeper of the Olympics since 1932.
The turning point came in the 1980s when Omega merged with another Swiss watch giant, ASUAG, forming ASUAG-SSIH. This company was eventually taken over by a group of private investors and renamed Société de Microélectronique et d’Horlogerie (SMH), which became The Swatch Group in 1998. The Swatch Group now manufactures Omega, continuing its legacy alongside other esteemed brands such as Blancpain and Breguet.
Today, Omega continues to be a part of Swiss watchmaking excellence. They offer an array of collections, such as the Speedmaster, the Seamaster, and the Constellation, each with its unique appeal. Be it walking the lunar surface or adding a touch of class to James Bond. They are a statement, a history worn on the wrist, ticking tales of time.
About Rolex Watches
Rolex. The name exudes an aura of luxury, precision, and timeless elegance. The face of “Swiss watchmaking excellence”, and the “pinnacle of horological achievement.” they say. The name has become synonymous with the very idea of a luxury wristwatch.
The story of Rolex began in 1905, when a visionary entrepreneur named Hans Wilsdorf, along with his brother-in-law Alfred Davis, set out to create timepieces that were not only reliable but also elegant.
Back then, wristwatches weren’t as popular as they are today. However, Wilsdorf saw the potential for them to revolutionize the way people kept time. Rolex, originally based in London, moved its operations to Geneva, Switzerland, in 1919 to avoid heavy wartime taxes on luxury imports and exports.
From the very beginning, Rolex has been a pioneer. It introduced the world’s first waterproof wristwatch, the Rolex Oyster, in 1926. A couple of years later, Mercedes Gleitze wore this watch as she swam across the English Channel, and it kept perfect time throughout the ten-hour ordeal. This was the first of many adventures of Rolex watches, and it earned a massive reputation for the brand.
In 1931, Rolex again made history by inventing the self-winding mechanism with a Perpetual rotor. This significant innovation is now at the heart of every modern automatic watch. Later, Rolex developed the first fully functional GMT (Rolex GMT-Master) and the first wristwatch with an automatically changing date on the dial (Rolex Datejust).
Rolex stands for trailblazing innovations. It isn’t anything less than a brand dedicated to precision, durability, invention, and timeless elegance. Rolex’s impact on the watch industry is undeniable.
Omega vs Rolex Watches: The Battle of Two Iconic Swiss Watch Brands
The brands share a common heritage of precision and craftsmanship, but each has carved out its unique identity and loyal following. Let’s dive into the deep end and explore how these two titans compare in various aspects.
Brand Recognition
When it comes to brand recognition, both Omega and Rolex are renowned worldwide. Rolex, with its unmistakable crown logo, has often been associated with the rich and famous, from Hollywood A-listers to world leaders. Its reputation as a status symbol has made it a household name.
Everyone knows about Rolex, everyone desires a Rolex, but only very few can have a Rolex. Omega, on the other hand, has a reputation for precision and reliability. Its watches have been chosen by organizations such as NASA for their space missions and have been the official timekeepers for the Olympics since 1932.
The Omega Speedmaster, famously known as the “Moonwatch,” has a particularly high recognition factor due to its association with the Apollo moon landing missions. It’s one of the most iconic models ever designed, with perfectly spot-on proportions.
Model Variety
Omega and Rolex have quite the array to boast. Each brand brings its unique flavor to the table. Omega has a diverse selection of models. From the sporty Speedmaster and Seamaster collections to the elegant De Ville and Constellation lines, there is an Omega watch for every occasion.
An important note is that Omega also offers quartz movements, which widens the range of their reach among collectors.
Rolex also offers several iconic collections, including the Submariner, Daytona, and Oyster Perpetual, each with its distinctive style and features. They also have a unique range of materials and color options for their watches, driving Rolex enthusiasts crazy when looking for a new timepiece.
Build Quality & Durability
Omega and Rolex are top-tier. There are no shortcuts made. If not these two, then which brand will dedicate special effort toward qualitative metrics? Omega watches are known for their quality and durability.
The company’s adherence is evident in its co-axial escapement mechanism. It was specially designed by Omega to reduce friction within the watch movement and improve long-term reliability. They also have a number of watches that are certified as Master Chronometers, an indication of their level of precision and performance.
Rolex watches are recognized for their robustness and longevity. They use 904L stainless steel, which is more corrosion-resistant than the industry standard 316L steel. Rolex also manufactures its movements in-house and maintains one of the most strict quality control in the whole industry.
Movements
We’re talking high-quality, reliable movements here. Rolex exclusively uses in-house, automatic movements in their watches. They are known for their precision and reliability, with many achieving COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) certification.
Omega, on the other hand, offers both mechanical and quartz movements in their watches. Omega’s mechanical movements feature the above-mentioned co-axial escapement, that’s designed to enhance precision and stability over time. Some of Omega’s watches also carry the Master Chronometer certification.
Price & Availability
There’s nothing to sugarcoat here; both watches come with a premium price tag. However, it’s fair to say that Rolex watches are typically more expensive. The higher price point is associated with the brand’s reputation, the use of high-end materials, and the complexity of its in-house movements.
The demand is unmatched for these watches. Omega, on the other hand, offers a wider price range. It’s definitely a more accessible brand for its audience. Their diverse collection, which includes both quartz and mechanical watches, allows for various price points.
In terms of availability, Rolex watches are more challenging to find due to high demand and limited production. Omega watches are generally more readily available.
Resale Value
Historically, Rolex watches have generally had a higher resale value than Omega watches. This is primarily due to the strong brand reputation and increased demand for Rolex watches, especially specific models like the Submariner and Daytona, which can often be passed on for profit.
Omega, on the other hand, has a slightly different story. While Omega watches are highly regarded and have a strong following, they generally do not retain their value as well as Rolex watches. However, there are exceptions to this rule, especially for special or limited edition models.
Endorsements and Partnerships
Omega has cultivated a strong presence through its strategic endorsements and partnerships. Since 1932, Omega has been the official timekeeper for the Olympics. This relationship has continued for over 80 years, making it one of the longest-running partnerships in the sporting world.
Omega is also known for keeping time in space. The Omega Speedmaster was the first watch on the moon, worn by Buzz Aldrin during the Apollo 11 mission in 1969.
The Brand also had the honor of arming James Bond with class and elegance. Since 1995, Omega Seamaster watches have been featured in the James Bond films, worn by actors like Pierce Brosnan and Daniel Craig. This partnership has led to special “James Bond” editions of their watches.
Rolex has partnerships with elite golf tournaments and professional tennis events. Their watches are very eye-catching in the corner of the court at Wimbledon or the Australian Open. They have also partnered with the prestigious Yacht Club Costa Smeralda and the Rolex Sydney Hobart Yacht Race.
“Rolex Testimonees” include prominent figures from various fields. In tennis, they’ve partnered with legendary players like Roger Federer and Serena Williams. In golf, they count Tiger Woods and Phil Mickelson. In regards to the film-making industry, they have award-winning directors on their side, such as Martin Scorsese and Kathryn Bigelow.
Service and Maintenance
Omega recommends a service interval of 5 to 8 years, depending on the model and its usage. Their servicing involves the complete disassembly of the watch, thorough cleaning, replacement of worn parts, and reassembly and lubrication.
They also have an additional step in their service process – the watch movement is placed in a testing machine that simulates the conditions a watch might encounter on a wearer’s wrist.
Omega’s Co-Axial Master Chronometer watches, which are resistant to magnetic fields, undergo specific tests to ensure they retain this resistance after servicing.
Rolex recommends having their watches serviced about every 10 years, though this can depend on the model and how the timepiece is used. Like Omega, when a Rolex watch is serviced, it is completely disassembled and thoroughly cleaned, and any worn or damaged components are replaced with genuine Rolex parts.
The timepiece is also resealed to ensure it retains its water resistance. Rolex provides a two-year service guarantee, ensuring that any issues arising from the service will be corrected at no additional cost.
Omega vs Rolex Watches: Top Models Comparison
We find ourselves at the crossroads of innovation and tradition. Elegance and ruggedness. Omega and Rolex. Let’s discuss the differences between the fine details of the most iconic models of these two.
Omega Seamaster 300M vs Rolex Submariner Date
Few matchups garner as much attention as the Omega Seamaster 300M and the Rolex Submariner Date. Timeless designs, top-notch materials, and superior functionality describe these two.
The Seamaster 300M is known for its robust build and underwater prowess. It comes with a 42 mm case made of stainless steel and a unidirectional rotating bezel fashioned from ceramic, giving it a sturdy and durable exterior.
The watch is powered by Omega’s self-winding Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8800. This movement is certified by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS).
The Submariner Date comes with a 41mm Oystersteel case. It’s powered by the Perpetual, mechanical, self-winding Calibre 3235. The watch holds the Superlative Chronometer certification after being tested in Rolex’s own laboratories.
Seamaster 300M
Submariner Date
Case Size (Men)
42mm
41mm
Materials
Stainless steel case and ceramic bezel
Oystersteel and Cerachrom bezel
Water Resistance
Up to 300m
Up to 300m
Movement
Omega Master Chronometer Calibre 8800 with METAS certification, 55-hour power reserve
Rolex Calibre 3235, 70-hour power reserve, Superlative Chronometer certification
Strap
Available on a steel bracelet or a range of rubber straps
Available only on an Oystersteel bracelet
Additional Features
Helium escape valve, unidirectional rotating bezel, date window at 6 o’clock
Date window at 3 o’clock with Cyclops lens over the date, unidirectional rotating bezel
MSRP
$5,200 on a rubber strap, $5,500 on a steel bracelet
$9,550
Omega Speedmaster vs Rolex Daytona
There’s been a long-standing rivalry between these two chronographs. Just like in many other categories, these two dominate nearly the whole chronograph market.
While the Omega Speedmaster offers a manual winding movement and an enduring design that’s been tested by the rigorous conditions of space, the Rolex Daytona counters with its automatic chronograph movement, prestigious reputation, and strong ties to the high-octane world of auto racing.
Speedmaster
Daytona
Case Size (Men)
42mm
40mm
Materials
Stainless steel
Stainless steel
Water Resistance
50 meters
100 meters
Movement
Omega Caliber 3861 (manual-winding)
Perpetual Caliber 4131 (self-winding)
Strap
Stainless steel bracelet, leather strap, NATO strap, and rubber strap
Typically a stainless steel Oyster bracelet or option for leather straps.
Additional Features
Some models may include features like a moon phase complication, date function, or a tachymeter bezel for measuring speed.
Chronograph functionality, a tachymeter scale engraved on the bezel, and a highly legible dial design.
MSRP
$5,350
$15,100
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra vs Rolex Oyster Perpetual
Just like the other comparisons, these two are both excellent timepieces, and you can’t really go wrong with either.
Omega enthusiasts might have a hard time choosing a style here since there’s so much going on with the Seamaster Aqua Terra, while Rolex, on the other hand, might cause trouble charging double for certain models.
Are they both awesome? Yes. However, objectively speaking, Omega’s offer appears to be more technically advanced, and many say it’s the more luxurious looking of the two as well.
Seamaster Aqua Terra
Oyster Perpetual
Case Size (Men)
38mm to 41mm
36mm to 41mm
Materials
Stainless steel
Stainless steel
Water Resistance
150 meters
100 meters
Movement
Omega Co-Axial Caliber movement (certified as Master Chronometer)
Self-winding, Calibre 2232 or Calibre 3230 (certified as Superlative Chronometers)
Strap
Stainless steel bracelet and leather strap
Stainless steel Oyster bracelets
Additional Features
Some models feature a date function, exhibition case back, and luminescent hands and hour markers
Known for its timeless and classic design, it focuses on simplicity and reliability. Some models may have luminescent markers.
MSRP
$6,200
From $5,800
Omega Planet Ocean 600M vs Rolex Sea-Dweller
Aquaman’s starter pack. You can literally rule the seas with these two. Being born in the heart of Switzerland, these watches will not mind a drop of water in lightly dripping weather. But in all seriousness, the Seamaster Planet Ocean by Omega and the Sea-Dweller by Rolex are two of the greatest diving watches in the world.
The similarities, though, essentially stop there. These timepieces may as well be thousands of miles apart due to their different movements and features. Who would prevail in a duel between Rolex and Omega? Let us leave that up to you.
Planet Ocean 600M
Sea-Dweller
Case Size (Men)
Ranging from 42mm to 45.5mm
43mm
Materials
Stainless steel (bezel can feature materials like ceramic or Liquidmetal)
904L stainless steel
Water Resistance
600 meters
Up to 1,220 meters
Movement
Omega Co-Axial movement (exact caliber varies depending on size); METAS certification
Stainless steel bracelet, rubber strap, or NATO strap
Stainless steel Oyster bracelet
Additional Features
Some models may include features like a helium escape valve for professional diving or luminescent markers.
Rolex’s Glidelock extension system for easy adjustment, Rolex’s Cyclops lens, helium escape valve.
MSRP
$6,166
$14,350
Omega Globemaster vs Rolex Datejust
The Datejust has all of the qualities of the traditional steel Rolex. Fluted bezel, cyclops, stick indices. It screams Rolex from far away. But the hype comes at a great cost. The question remains: is it worth it to pay more just to have something others desire?
The Globemaster’s specifications appear to be similar to those of many other watches at first glance: stainless steel case, blue dial (in this case), and a just-right 39mm diameter (47mm lug-to-lug). The watch delivers on the brand’s reputation without nearly as much hype and lust toward it.
Globemaster
Datejust
Case Size (Men)
39mm or 41mm
36mm or 41mm
Materials
Stainless steel (some models feature combinations of steel and precious metals like gold or platinum)
Stainless steel, two-tone (steel and gold), or solid gold
Water Resistance
100 meters
100 meters
Movement
Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement (certified by METAS) 48 to 60 hours of power reserve
Powered by various Rolex in-house automatic movements. COSC certified. 48 to 70 hours of power reserve
Strap
Leather, fabric, or metal bracelets
Oyster or Jubilee bracelet
Additional Features
Some models feature a distinctive pie-pan dial, Omega’s anti-magnetic technology
Iconic cyclops lens, tons of available dial and materials options, including Rolex’s patented Rolesor
MSRP
$7,100
between $7,700 and $15,500
Conclusion
In conclusion, both Omega and Rolex offer an impressive array of watches. They cater to a wide range of tastes, preferences, and budgets. For those on the hunt for a watch with a rich history, exceptional craftsmanship, and high performance, these two brands couldn’t be more qualified for the job.
Rolex, with its unrivaled brand recognition and consistent resale value, is an excellent choice for those seeking an investment as much as a timepiece. It carries a certain prestige that’s hard to match, and its watches are renowned for their robustness and reliability.
Omega, on the other hand, offers fantastic variety, innovation, and value for money. Omega watches tend to be more accessible price-wise, and their pioneering spirit in watchmaking technology still has an undeniable appeal.
What might appear to be a simple choice for astronauts or race car drivers will remain a never-ending dilemma for the average enthusiast…
