Category: News

Watch lume is bright, fun, and very useful. It feels like it’s been around forever. In fact, it’s easy to take watch luminosity for granted. But think about how indispensable a material like this would have been in the early days before electricity was a thing in homes! 

Back then, all people could do was rely on audible features like those that chimed to tell the time. And even then, you had to be wealthy enough. Sonnaires and minute repeaters weren’t cheap by any stretch of the imagination! 

It was the 20th century that birthed the idea of a watch that could be read in the dark. That being said, the road wouldn’t be easy. In fact, watch luminescence has quite a murky back story… 

The Shady History of Lume  

Now, you may have heard of Polish physicist Marie Curie. She was the first and only female to win the Nobel Prize, not once but twice, but she also happened to be the leading chemist in the field of radioactivity. 

During her ground-breaking, history-defining work, she discovered two important elements: polonium and radium. The latter was radioactive and is a significant topic to cover when researching the history of watch luminosity. It was the first luminous material to find its way onto wristwatches during the early 1900s. 

To emphasize the seriousness of this radioactive element, it’s important to touch on the untimely death of Marie Curie herself, who passed away from symptoms related to prolonged exposure to the one material she revolutionized. 

We know of the effects of radioactivity now, but during radium’s heyday in watchmaking, the research simply wasn’t there. Sadly, we’d come to realize the damaging effects of this material on human health over time, but not before it was too late. 

Ironically, as is the case with many harmful chemicals, we once thought radium was good for us. Can you imagine? Just like smoking cigarettes, initially advertised as a relaxant and a healthy lifestyle choice – radium was historically considered an enhancement to human health rather than a hindrance.

Radium hair treatments were sold during the 1920s as luxurious products to indulge in, and those working in watchmaking facilities who were tasked with the job of applying radium to watch dials knew no better at the time. 

Named “The Radium Girls”, these female technicians would lick the tip of their paintbrush to achieve a finer point for radium application on the more delicate elements of a watch dial or clock display. 

Sadly, over time, watchmakers began realizing the effects that prolonged exposure to radium had on human health. The Radium Girls would experience several horrific symptoms such as their teeth falling out, pain around their face and head, and fatigue. 

Long-term exposure to the luminous material would even cause ”Radium Jaw” where the jawbone would weaken to the point at which it would crumble. These weren’t the only devastating side-effects of working with radium, either. Many women would go on to suffer from cancer.

Industry giant Rolex was using radium before the 1950s, right up until around 1963. The brand is a great example to research if you want to follow the evolution of watch lume in chronological order and visually see how watchmakers have adapted to the changes in luminous material over the decades.

Between the mid-1960s and up to around 1997, Rolex switched from radium to tritium (another material we’ll cover in detail shortly) before moving onto Super-LumiNova (naming it Chromalight). One reason for the switch to the more recent Super-LumiNova material was down to tritium’s short shelf life. 

The material would only last for around 12 years and would begin developing a patination that connoisseurs didn’t like. Ironically, the old radium-style luminosity and faded tritium dials are now a desirable feature in a watch, which many enthusiasts will pay considerable money for.

Since Super-LumiNova joined the scene in around 1997-1998, there have been a handful of iterations of the material. Several brands have created their own version of Super-LumiNova. Examples include Rolex’s proprietary Chromalight material and Seiko’s Lumibrite. Oh, and one other thing – Super-LumiNova isn’t radioactive at all, hence its popularity!

How does Watch Lume Work 

Lume is the term given to the luminescent material used on a watch dial to make it glow in dark conditions. It’s an integral feature for any tool or sports watch since it serves a very practical purpose, guiding the way to accurate, legible timekeeping when you may need it most. 

It, therefore, goes without saying that watch lume is particularly important for those who wear their watch to work at night or for outdoor exploration in particularly challenging conditions and harsh environments. The debate surrounding which brand offers the strongest lume is ongoing, but what we do know is how it works.

Since there are different forms of watch lume, how it works depends on whether you’re looking at photoluminescent material, electroluminescent material, or tritium gas tubes. 

While photoluminescent material absorbs light energy and emits a glow, electroluminescence is what you’ll likely see on the backlight of a digital or ana-digi watch. We’ll go through the various types of watch lume in this article and identify how each one differs from the other.  

What is Radium?

As mentioned, one of the revolutionary breakthroughs in luminescent material on watch dials came about during the time of the First World War. Soldiers began replacing their pocket watches with wrist-worn instruments and needed to depend on something concise and clear. Flashlights were forbidden since they would instantly give away a hidden location—cue luminous watch dials.

One of the first examples of a radium watch dial was the Radiomir watch developed by Florentine-based watchmaker Panerai. The Parisian company specialized in diving gear and precision instruments for the Italian Navy. 

The material in question was made from radium bromide, zinc sulfide, and mesothorium. After the hazardous effects of radium became common knowledge, however, the industry turned its attention to something safer. Tritium.

Today, the Radiomir watch by Panerai is still going strong, albeit without the harmful effects of radioactive material splashed all over its dial. Panerai combines Super-LumiNova features with a dial design that strays very little from the original and equips these watches with impressive power reserves (some of which last for up to 8 days). 

The Panerai Radiomir Black Seal 3 Days PAM00505 is a great example of a watch that fuses modern materials and technology with a classic, vintage-esque charm. For example, the Arabic numerals at the cardinal points on the dial are all finished in a beige-colored Super-LumiNova. This gives the watch an old-radium charm and a character that collectors adore.

Enter Tritium

Before we talk too much about Tritium, it’s worth mentioning a material called Promethium. Promethium played an integral role in the evolution of watch lume, even though it’s rarely mentioned or recognized in industry dialect today. 

Promethium replaced radium for a short period of time as a safer alternative. Yet, this less-radioactive material had a much shorter lifespan than the former. Promethium only lived for around two and a half years. 

When you compare this to radium’s 1600 years of life, you can soon see why this material never came close to the reliability and legibility of radium. Still, it didn’t cause people’s teeth to fall out and certainly carved a road for tritium. 

Tritium (H-3) was used directly on the surface of watch dials until the mid-1990s, and there were several pros and cons to using it as a luminous material. Firstly, it offered a better lifespan than Promethium. Tritium could last for around 12.5 years as opposed to Promethium’s 2.5 years. 

Sounds great, right? But there’s a downside. This material wasn’t entirely safe. Tritium is a beta-emitter. It’s safer than radium, but it’s still a radioactive isotope of Hydrogen, which, as a paint, had a way of seeping through the plastic caseback and diffusing through to the wearer’s skin.

To overcome this, brands began replacing the paint with gaseous tritium light sources. Ever heard of Ball Watch Company’s Light Emitting Technology? Right! So, these tightly sealed tubes safely store tritium and contain a phosphorus powder coating on the inside, which reacts with tritium when it releases electrons. 

Ball’s luminous technology is second to none in the field of luminous gas tubes. They’re small, precise, and lightweight. The company produces them using a CO2 laser before meticulously positioning them into place.

Perhaps no Ball Watch showcases the manufacturer’s expertise in this light tube technology more than the Engineer III Marvelight Chronometer Meteorite watch. The steel model, complete with a matching steel bracelet and a sapphire crystal glass front, is an automatic three-hander with rainbow-colored gas tubes that illuminate the hour markers and hands in dark conditions. 

If the meteorite dial wasn’t enough of a unique feature alone, the orange, pink, blue, green, and yellow indices put on a spectacular show after dark. With 100-meter water resistance and antimagnetic capabilities that protect the watch from up to 80,000 A/m, the Engineer III is a watch that has so much more going for it than the luminosity of its dial alone. 

Still, you can’t deny that the powerful presentation of those rainbow hour markers is certainly the star of the show at nightfall. 

Photoluminescence: Super-LumiNova 

Super-LumiNova actually takes its name from the brand that founded it back in 1993. The material is made up of strontium aluminate and photoluminescent pigments that are mixed together to form a non-toxic, luminous paint that glows beautifully in the dark. 

It differs from the tritium-filled gas tubes you see on a Ball watch since the latter is more a chemical reaction that causes a continuous glow, day or night. Super-LumiNova, however, glows at a level of brilliance that is unmatched but for a period of time only and creates an eye-catching spectacle that you can observe in any low-light environment.

If you consider yourself a modern watch collector, you’ll have heard the term Super-LumiNova creep up in conversations or even seen it listed in the spec details of most watches online. Super-LumiNova is a photoluminescent material, which means it absorbs light before emitting a long-lasting, brilliant glow. 

It succeeded the former LumiNova material, which became the go-to material to use after tritium. Surprisingly, the material was first discovered back in the 1960s and was used in cathode ray tubes. However, it was much later before the watch industry embraced the fluorescent qualities of LumiNova.

This non-radioactive substance poses no threat to human health, making it a no-brainer for modern tool watches. The only downside to Super-LumiNova is that it needs to be charged with sufficient light before it will glow for a limited period of darkness. 

Therefore, if a watch is left in a dark drawer, it will need charging before you can expect to see a gleaming dial at night. Its intensity also decreases over time once charged. The material’s quality and the light source’s intensity determine how well a dial stays illuminated, especially since the duration of a Super-LuiNova-coated dial can vary from half an hour to 15 hours.

One of the key advantages of Super-LumiNova is that it can charge and recharge an unlimited amount of times and share no wear and tear. Unlike radium and tritium, which degrades over time, this more modern material has a much longer lifespan. It’s also available in a plethora of different colors!

Of course, one of the most common variations of Super-LumiNova is Seiko’s Lumibrite material, which is widely featured throughout the brand’s dive watch range. Entirely safe for humans and based largely on the more famous Super-LumiNova material, Lumibrite contains zero toxic ingredients and is free from radioactive substances. 

Since it works in the same way as the more common LumiNova, Lumibrite effectively absorbs light and then stores it before radiating a strong and impressive glow that can last up to 5 or 6 hours or more.

The Seiko Prospex Alpinist is one of the brand’s most collectible adventure watches, with a history intrinsically linked with alpine pursuits. In 2020, it became part of the Prospex collection, with models like the SPB121 now representing some of the brand’s finest examples. 

This model reimagines the original 1951 sports watch with an inner rotating compass, robust steel case, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, Lumibrite hour markers, and cathedral hands.

Electroluminescence; a Glow with an Electrical Flow

So, we know that photoluminescent materials absorb light energy before emitting a rich glow. Electroluminescence is when light is produced as a result of an electrical current passing through a phosphorus material. 

In watches, an electric conductor-coated plastic or glass panel is mounted behind the dial, and when a button is activated, it delivers an electrical current. The phosphor reacts and acts as a backlight. One of the most common examples of this technology can be found in Timex’s famous Indiglo watches, but other affordable watch companies use it, too, like Casio. 

The rugged Casio G-Shock Mudmaster is an ana-digi watch with bucket loads of wrist presence thanks to a powerful 52mm resin case. 

Rugged and durable, its robust exterior packs a whole load of functionality into the wrist, including double LED lights, a Location Indicator feature, 200 meters of water resistance, solar power charging, and features that also measure altitude and barometeic pressure. 

Additional features include a mission log, world timezones, phone finder, alarms, and, of course, a backlight, combined with luminous material on the analog details for traditional timekeeping. 

Watch Lume – Just How Important Is It?

You only need to watch a YouTube video or two to see just how ga-ga collectors go over a watch with lume. You’ll see shots of it completely in the dark for full effect, while watch modders may even try their hand at painting it on a dial if they’re feeling extra adventurous. 

Considering Super-LumiNova is no more than the horological version of glow-in-the-dark paint, it’s only natural to question why enthusiasts love it so much. But they do, and that’s partly to do with how important it is on a functional level.

Admittedly, when a watch dial is fully charged, a Super-LumiNova watch has a captivating effect on its wearer, especially if done right. So, you can imagine the appeal of a fully lumed dial. The likes of Bell & Ross, DOXA, IWC, TAG Heuer, and Zodiac have all dabbled in this field. Heck, even affordable solar-power specialists Citizen have dipped their toe in fully lume dials! 

But whether a fully-coated dial or not, you’re always going to want to read the time in the dark. Case in point, there is always a need for lume on a practical watch, but should it always be a deliberate consideration? 

Absolutely not. Even the geekiest of watch lume nerds will agree that there is a style and a design that calls for Super-LumiNova, and it would certainly look out of place on an elegant 18k dress watch.

Conclusion

Sometimes, it can feel like manufacturers are just ticking a box when adding features like Super-LumiNova to a watch, but as long as a timepiece is the sporty, functional, practical type – it will always serve a useful purpose. 

Being able to read the time while hundreds of meters under the ocean’s surface, while out fishing at night, while mountain climbing, cave exploring, or navigating the skies in the dead of night – watch luminosity will always have a place on the dial of a good quality tool watch.

It seems that every time I talk about Grand Seiko, I spend all my time raving about their elegance and innovation, praising them for their craftsmanship and attention to detail. They have managed to capture the essence of watchmaking and seem to personally inject whatever secrets they hold into each and every piece. The Grand Seiko SLGW003 is a striking testament to this philosophy. 

Part of the Evolution 9 collection, the SLGW003 is a relatively newer entry to the iconic family that houses so many recognizable names. It comes equipped with the Grand Seiko Caliber 9SA4, the first manual-winding 36,000 vph mechanical movement Grand Seiko has created in nearly 50 years. 

They incorporate the manual design to forge a deeper connection between the watch and the wearer, claiming that the ritual winding of a watch is one of life’s pleasures. In the 60s and 70s, Seiko produced numerous manually wound pieces, attempting to deliver higher precision to each design. 

This watch signifies their grand return to these more old-fashioned pieces, but not without improving upon the original design, displaying their drive to always increase their level of craftsmanship. 

Wrapped in a shroud of sophistication with the advanced technology of the modern age, the SLGW003 delivers on all fronts, ensuring that the wearer looks their best while being easy to read, wind, and wear. 

History

Released in 2021, the Grand Seiko SLGW003 immediately made a name for itself among the Evolution 9 collection. Drawing inspiration from Japan’s rich cultural heritage and birch forests that reside near the Grand Seiko headquarters, this watch embodies the striking beauty of Japanese nature, as well as the detail-oriented precision of Japanese society. 

Taking inspiration from the old manually wound 10-beat designs from the ’60s and ’70s, this watch could be considered both a throwback and a step forward. It incorporates old themes and new functions that excel in practicality and leave the wearer in awe of its mechanical prowess.

Case 

Titanium cases are among my favorite materials. Lightweight, sleek, luminescent, and subtle, they satisfy every desire and check every box when it comes to the beauty of your pieces’ case. Grand Seiko’s hard titanium comes with all the benefits of regular titanium, incorporating a beautiful Zaratsu polishing that only adds to the beauty. 

The diameter is 38.6mm, the lug-to-lug is 45.0mm, and the thickness is 9.95mm, measuring very thin all across the board. The contorted lugs help with wearability and give it an even slimmer aesthetic, which will appeal to many of you who prefer the sleeker designs. 

The Zaratsu finish accompanies both the inner crease and the bezel, while matte finishing accompanies the sides of the case. The sapphire crystal protects the dial while rising slightly above the rest of the case due to it being slightly domed. The casing has been made with a low center of gravity to ensure that it still sits securely on your wrist, no matter how light it is. 

The crown protrudes from the three positions, proudly embroidered with the GS logo. And when you turn the case around, you are met with the welcomed surprise of an open case-back so that you can view the mechanical integrity of the piece.

The case exemplifies an understated charm, reinforcing the significance of the watch’s other features while also catching the wearer’s eye with its beautiful titanium elegance. Successfully designed casing exists for two significant reasons: First, it has to look aesthetically pleasing by itself, but the most important reason is that it has to elevate everything around it. 

The beauty of the watch starts with the casing. It serves as a foundation around which the other features center themselves. Grand Seiko has delivered an effective foundation and, by using its staggering beauty, has crafted one of its most impressive pieces yet.

Dial

The dial is highly textured with a unique white birch tree bark style that is unique to this series. While at first, it may seem familiar, as the SLGH005 appears very similar to the Grand Seiko SLGW003, the white birch pattern has far more textures on the SLGW003, and the pattern is moving horizontally on the SLGW003 as opposed to vertically on the SLGH005. 

The bezel seems to focus on giving the watch a dressier appeal as the textures breathe an unprecedented style of luxury and pristine craftsmanship that is far more detailed than anything we’ve seen before. 

Other than the Grand Seiko logo and the text at 6 o’clock, there are no complications in the dial, ensuring that the wearer is satisfied with the symmetry and cleanliness that the dial seeks to emulate.  

The indices are broad and easy to read, taking the common shape of the Series 9 style. They are polished to perfection and give a beautiful complementary look to the backdrop of the dial, standing out from the birch-wood background in an elevated manner. 

The same goes for the hands. When everything on the dial is the same color, it tends to blend together. This piece brings out a stark boldness to each feature while keeping them all the same shade. Nothing seems out of place or distracting. The hands are elegant and slender, which goes well with the size of the piece itself. 

This is one of the cleanest dials we’ve seen from Grand Seiko, and it is among my personal favorites. The birch-wood texture’s underlying simplicity and the titanium’s elegance seem to be a combination sent from heaven to give us one of the most extraordinary designs. The removal of a date window does many favors for the integrity of the dial as well. 

Part of the beauty comes from the symmetry, and I feel like if you tried to fit anything else in the dial, then it would undermine the original vision. Skilled watchmakers know when to restrain themselves. 

Sometimes, less is more, and Grand Seiko seemed to go into this project with that idea in mind. I would say it worked very well for them, and I’m eager to see if they replicate this design choice in any future pieces. 

Movement

Engineered with the sole purpose of providing the ultimate hand-winding experience, the Caliber 9SA4 comes with a pleasing winding sound, demonstrating its craftsmanship and quality. It has a high frequency of 10 vibrations per second, which accounts for the 80 hours of power reserve. 

This is the first hand-wound, high-beat movement that Grand Seiko has produced in more than 50 years, and given how they treat the rest of their works, you can be sure that the 9SA4 has been finely tuned and perfected with the same attention to detail as all of their other pieces. 

Grand Seiko has rearranged the gear train and redesigned many parts, ensuring that the Caliber 9SA4 achieves a power reserve of 80 hours with 15 percent fewer crown rotations than the Caliber 9SA5. 

This plays a role in the slimness of the watch and explains how a manual watch can achieve these kinds of numbers. It is also extremely accurate, with a mean daily rate of +5 to -3 seconds per day and a normal usage accuracy of +8 to -1 seconds per day. 

On a day-to-day basis, this watch is going to provide you with everything you need and more. An 80-hour power reserve from a manual is quite the treat, and the luxury it emits while you wind it is a nice little bonus feature that wearers can enjoy. The beauty of the 9SA4 cannot be understated. 

With 47 jewels, it shines from the open case back and adds to the aesthetic of the entire piece. Watching it subtly rotate and shift presents another theme to the design. Grand Grand Seiko claims that manual watches help us feel more attached to our pieces and help us appreciate the passing of time as we observe the mechanical power. 

The open case back was a necessary choice to ensure that connection is felt while it is being worn. As time passes, the wearer can appreciate that this watch will never change and that with every turn of the crown, you can be sure that the integrity of the watch never falters.

Straps

The strap is black and made out of crocodile leather with matched stitching and a three-fold clasp. It feels very premium and supple, almost as if it’s already been worn in. This could be a pro or a con, depending on whether or not you appreciate a more natural feel on your wrist or you want to wear the strap yourself. 

The light reflects very solemnly off the black leather, giving it a glare that can either complement the whiteness of the dial or contrast it due to its dark natural colors. Both of these looks are very aesthetically pleasing in their own right, but I prefer the subtle compliments that the lighter shade gives. One mark of a good strap is whether or not it can transform when the light hits it just right. 

It can completely change the piece’s overall look in both positive and negative ways. This is undoubtedly a positive, as the birch texture of the dial fits comfortably in between the two glowing sides of the leathery straps. 

You most likely won’t want to change this beautiful strap, but the drilled lugs and 20mm lug width will make the process seamless. This piece benefits greatly from a leather strap because the casing and the dial reflect a sleeker, more reserved look. The watch itself is very thin, and I feel a steel bracelet would appear disproportionate compared to the rest of the watch. 

The crocodile leather is one material that has grown on me. I was hesitant about complimenting it when I first saw it, but this piece has single-handedly made me appreciate what can be done with the simple material. The texture is beautiful, comfortable, easy to swap, and frankly doesn’t miss. 

On-Wrist Experience

The dimensions make the watch very suitable for a wide variety of wrists, extending from as low as 6 inches to as high as about 7.5 inches or more. You won’t run into many issues fitting the watch. 

Thanks to the titanium, it feels very smooth and lightweight compared to a stainless steel watch, weighing just enough to remind you that it’s still on your wrist while not being overly heavy to the point of discomfort. Sleekly polished and finished to perfection, the titanium shines like glass, while the soft curved lugs ensure a snug fit.

The minimalist dial contributes to the overall sense of refinement, and the leather strap has the unique feel of molding to your wrist over time, almost as if it was made specifically for the individual wearer. The small nature makes it easy to slide under cuffs, which may be an advantage for those of you who prefer that style. 

Although I found that wearing this piece on the outside of your cuffs does tremendous work on the aesthetic Plus, I don’t know why you would want to hide this piece. It should be something you feel proud to show off. 

Overall, I’ve found this is a dressier watch—not to argue against the idea of wearing it in another environment. The heftier price alone alludes to its high-end nature, and dressing accordingly would elevate the luxurious nature of the piece even higher. 

But—and don’t get me confused—you would be fine wearing it in any environment because you’re not sacrificing comfort for something more pristine. In this piece, comfort and beauty walk side by side, so the wearer shouldn’t be concerned about when or when not to wear it. 

Pricing

You can find the Grand Seiko SLGW003 from Grand Seiko authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. We only ship to the US and are authorized dealers, ensuring a 5-year warranty directly from Grand Seiko. 

A brand-new SLGW003  can be picked up for $11,000. Pre-owned pieces usually range from 9-10k, depending on the condition of the watch. 

Conclusion 

For being the first hand-wound, high-beat manual watch in over 50 years, Grand Seiko surpassed all expectations in its momentous return and has left fans eager for more manual pieces like this one. 

The sleekness, the quality of the material, and attention to detail ensure that it’s not only a reliable companion but a statement on the wrist, communicating how in-tune with the beauty of time Grand Seiko has remained as they ceaselessly strive to bind a stronger connection between their art and those who wear it. 

It can be suitable for daily wear or an elevation to your wardrobe. The Grand Seiko SLGW003 stands as a sophisticated choice that won’t go unnoticed, and as the brand evolves, its level of sophistication will undoubtedly evolve with it. 

Grand Seiko is widely known for its incredible dials. If that’s news to you, then boy, are you in for a treat today because the watch I’m reviewing is one of my favorite Grand Seiko dials to date. It’s a new addition to the Japanese watchmaker’s Evolution 9 collection and does something a little different to what we’ve seen before. 

When it comes to their more complicated dial designs, Grand Seiko typically elects something raised, a pattern that has an obvious visual texture. The Grand Seiko “Snowflake” is one of the best examples I could use, mimicking the look of snow with a grained white finish. You also have designs like the Grand Seiko “Whirlpool”, which lives up to its name with a swirling, whirlpool-like raised pattern in the brand’s very own dark blue hue. 

But the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ Spring Drive SLGA025 doesn’t have a dial that’s grooved, recessed, or grained; it’s a dial that appears almost completely smooth – at first – bringing to life the movement of the Atera River. This is a flowing stream found in Grand Seiko’s home country of Japan, which splits the Atera Valley into two parts, giving life to the floral and fauna surrounding it.

The Evolution of the Evolution 9 Collection

I was just about to type that the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 collection is one of my all-time favorite Grand Seiko designs. And that’s not wrong; it really is. But I also know that if you present me with one of their Heritage or Elegance models, I’m probably going to say the same. It’s hard to pick a favorite from a brand that does everything right. 

That said, I really enjoyed what Grand Seiko has been doing with their Evolution 9 collection lately. These watches are a powerful reimagining of their classic 44GS design from 1967. 

This was a watch that was precise, modern, and largely inspired by the beauty of Japanese nature. Today’s iteration is much the same, boasting refined details, a sharp case, slender profile, and an otherworldly dial. 

Over the last few years, Grand Seiko has evolved its Evolution 9 collection even further to make it more advanced and streamlined without the design ever losing its original charm. Some of these developments have been spotted in the shape of more legible, multi-faceted hands and broader markers, shortened lugs, and cases with a lower center of gravity for incredible comfort. 

What’s inside is just as impressive. The Evolution 9 watches feature Grand Seiko’s leading technology with both mechanical movements and Spring Drive options available. These are pieces that cement the brand’s dedication to accuracy and innovation, exuding an almost minimalist type of beauty that enhances its modern and timeless aesthetic. 

Now, there are little to no Grand Seiko Evolution 9 watches that I don’t like, but there are certainly some that I like more than others. But after trialing a particular model this past week, I might just have found the watch to take first place. With one of the most breathtaking dials I have ever seen, I’m talking about the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ Spring Drive SLGA025.

A Modern, Streamline Titanium Case

The case of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ Spring Drive SLGA025 watch is a familiar sight, boasting much of the same specs and tech as the Lake Suwa SLGA019 and its other brothers and sisters in the Evolution 9 collection. 

Like some of those models before it, reference SLGA025 boasts a high-intensity titanium case, a material that’s not just lightweight but a whopping 30% lighter than steel. I’ll get onto how this watch wore on my wrist shortly, but it’s safe to say that with its slender profile, sharp edges, and weightless finish, this felt unnoticeable in the best way. 

The grade 5 titanium material also has super scratch resistance, adding further resilience and durability to the design compared to standard stainless steel. It’s a metal with a slightly different look, too, being a little darker than steel and having more of a utilitarian finish rather than the bright gleam found on polished steel dress watches. 

The case of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ Spring Drive SLGA025 watch is still finished at the same high level as we’ve come to expect from this Japanese watchmaker. They have utilized their Zaratsu polishing technique on several elements of the case. 

This technique is a hallmark of Grand Seiko and involves carefully polishing surfaces using a spinning tinplate to create a distortion-free mirror finish. The case alternates between Zaratsu-polished surfaces and fine brushed finishes, creating a stunning play of light and shadow that enhances the watch’s streamlined aesthetic. 

The SLGA025 also has the same short, ergonomically shaped lugs, contributing to how it wears so well and low on the wrist. Its dimensions include a 40mm diameter and an impressively thin 11.8mm profile. The width from lug to lug is 47.9mm, so all in all, this is a compact, easily wearable timepiece for most wrists. 

The knurled crown, positioned at 3 o’clock and embossed with the Grand Seiko (GS) logo, is not only aesthetically pleasing but practical, with a design that allows easy manipulation without compromising the watch’s streamlined look. 

The dial is also protected by a dual-curved sapphire crystal glass that has an anti-reflective coating on the inner surface, enhancing both durability and readability. This type of crystal minimizes glare and provides a clear view of the dial from any angle. 

Flipping the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ Spring Drive SLGA025 over, the exhibition case back offers a glimpse into one of Grand Seiko’s legendary Spring Drive movements (more on that shortly, I promise). 

The case back is also made of sapphire crystal, allowing the wearer to admire the movement’s intricate details without any obstruction. Finally, the case is finished with a water resistance of 100 meters, reinforcing this release as a watch that will effortlessly perform in both casual and active settings.

The Best Grand Seiko Dial Yet?

If it wasn’t already clear, the standout feature of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ Spring Drive SLGA025 watch is its dial. It’s once again a Grand Seiko dial I urge you to go see in the metal. It is absolutely breathtaking, and while I will try my best to describe its appearance to you, I guarantee my words and Grand Seiko’s photos won’t do it justice. 

The color is a rich emerald green that, according to the luxury watch brand, is inspired by Japan’s Atera Valley. The surface has a delicate, almost flowing texture that perfectly mimics the movement of water, or in this instance, the gentle movement of the Atera River. It’s a really subtle texture – nothing like the raised elegance of the Snowflake or Whirlpool – but one that is gentle, simple, and yet undeniably awe-inspiring. 

From afar, the dial looks like a classic emerald dial, which alone is beautiful for its unique shade of color, but up close, you can notice this delicate wave-like texture. 

The texture is incredibly random, not easy-to-guess lines should you or I draw our interpretation of waves. In fact, it looks so legit that I can picture the Atera River’s current and how its flow changes depending on the rocky sediment it passes over. 

It’s a refreshing take on color and texture that adds depth and character. And the green hue isn’t overly bright or flashy. There’s a gentle, natural quality to it that draws the eye without demanding attention. I love how Grand Seiko has made this feel artful and understated. The overall effect is soothing yet fascinating, a feeling you don’t often get in watch dials. 

And, of course, as if the surface of the dial wasn’t beautiful enough, you have all the hand-finished details of the dial’s hands and markers. Like the rest of the Evolution 9 collection, they are brightly polished, sharp, and wide, allowing for easy reading even at a quick glance. 

The surface of the dial is made to be the star of the show, though, with the only other features worth noting being an integrated date window at 3 o’clock, a silvered applied GS logo and white text at 12 o’clock, and lettering for the movement and water resistance at 6 o’clock.

Movement 

To top the list of specs for the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ Spring Drive SLGA025 watch off, it comes powered by one of the Japanese company’s in-house Spring Drive movements. 

Now, I won’t go into the complete details of how this remarkable technology works – I’ll leave that to YouTube – but in short, this is a movement that combines the best of both the traditional gear-driven mechanism of a mechanical watch and the precision of a quartz oscillator. 

It offers a continuous sweep of the second hand and an impressive power reserve, making it a marvel of engineering that perfectly complements the mastery of the dial and case.

The exact caliber in use here is the Caliber 9RA2, a manufacture movement Grand Seiko has meticulously developed and hand-built at their Shinshu Watch Studio. Compared to the previous 9R6x series, the 9RA2 brings significant enhancements in size, performance, and overall functionality. 

I know the size is something a lot of Grand Seiko enthusiasts have been dreaming of: a slimmer Spring Drive powered watch like this Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ Spring Drive SLGA025. 

It’s this slimmer movement that has allowed the case of the SLGA025 to sit so low at 11.8mm. It also boasts a remarkable five-day power reserve from dual barrels, a quick date change, and exceptional accuracy of +/- 0.5 seconds per day. 

As mentioned, there is an exhibition case back so you can admire the technology of the Spring Drive movement when the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ Spring Drive watch is off your wrist. There’s plenty of handsome decoration to enjoy, including a power reserve indicator that is integrated into the movement’s plate and marked by a royal blue hand.

A Matching Titanium Bracelet

If there’s anywhere to find fault with the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ Spring Drive SLGA025, it would be in its bracelet. That said, I am about to be picky here. The titanium bracelet is stunning, don’t get me wrong, and meticulously hand-finished to mirror the case, featuring a robust three-link design. 

But I know that a huge drawback of the bracelet for many will be the absence of any micro-adjustment. This makes it a little harder to find the perfect fit, especially since our wrists tend to swell and contract throughout the day. That said, there are half links included, so you can get a close to perfect fit.

A taper on this 22mm-wide bracelet would have been nice, too, but I can appreciate Grand Seiko standing firm on their taperless construction to ensure better balance and ergonomics on the wrist. The three-link construction is fully brushed, adding to its streamlined, sophisticated charm. 

It might have been nice to have some of Grand Seiko’s Zaratsu polishing on the smaller intermediary links for a bit more light play, but again, I’m being incredibly picky here. The high-intensity titanium bracelet is completed by a three-fold clasp adorned with the Grand Seiko logo in relief. It also comes with a twin-trigger release system, so it’s nice and secure.

My only other complaint about the bracelet is that it comes with push pins for sizing rather than screws, which feels less than ideal for a watch of this price point. Grand Seiko does pretty much everything perfectly, but their bracelets let them down just a little when you get up close. 

That said, you can easily swap this bracelet out for another if you wish. It’s 22mm lug width offers plenty of versatility to find alternative straps, all of which will look good next to this gorgeous dial.

On-Wrist Experience

The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ Spring Drive SLGA025 watch wears beautifully, as you’d expect from a watch of this caliber. Constructed from high-intensity titanium, it feels incredibly lightweight, almost like a second skin, while still exuding undeniable presence on the wrist. Even with my relatively small 5.5-inch wrist, the watch maintained a confident look, thanks largely to that captivating dial that I honestly can’t stop staring at.

Though a bit oversized for my frame, the dimensions are still manageable for most wrists, with a 40mm case diameter, a 47.9mm length, and a slim 11.8mm thickness. The male end links extend the lug-to-lug distance to about 51mm, making the watch more suitable for those with wrists around 6.75 inches or larger. 

The 22mm lug width also adds to its broad profile, which is unusual for a Grand Seiko of this size, but it works well with the watch’s bold presence. This is also one of Grand Seiko’s slimmest Spring Drive watches, so it’s perfect for slipping under shirt cuffs, making it an excellent choice for both daily wear and more formal occasions.

Price & Availability

Retailing brand new for $10,500, the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ Spring Drive SLGA025 watch isn’t the Japanese watchmaker’s most affordable model, but that’s not what you expect when you look at a full titanium watch with a rare dial and a Spring Drive movement. 

In my opinion, although it’s a heavier price tag than some of their other references, every dollar is worth it. It really is a masterpiece of craftsmanship and innovation, and you can almost guarantee that if this exact piece was launched by one of the well-known Swiss watch brands out there, the price would be even higher.

Since the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ Spring Drive SLGA025 was only launched this autumn as a permanent part of the brand’s Evolution 9 collection, I wasn’t expecting to see many on the pre-owned market just yet. But boy, was I wrong. 

There are quite a few second-hand models out there, but since they’re not all that old and barely worn, they’re still close in price to those brand new. If it was me, I’d choose one brand new at a Grand Seiko authorized retailer like Exquisite Timepieces. You’ve got the confidence, then you’re receiving a genuine watch with all the official warranty and paperwork.

Conclusion

Considering its case finishing, wearable dimensions, striking geometry, and undeniably captivating dial, the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 ‘Atera Valley’ SLGA025 delivers serious value for its price. 

The five-day Spring Drive movement is both robust and impeccably accurate and it’s a pleasure to be able to watch the technology work through the case back when the watch is off the wrist. While the bracelet could benefit from a few refinements, like micro-adjustments or screw pins, it’s a minor concern when the rest of the watch excels so impressively.

If I had the cash in hand, I would have already purchased this watch. Instead, though, I’m going to pop it onto my wish list and hope, with a bit of luck, Santa is feeling extra generous this year! I know that some may feel this watch is a touch on the pricey side, and the vibrant blue dial may seem bold compared to the classic navy or black options. 

But that choice is all a matter of taste; for me, this watch ticks every box of a beautiful, wearable, and accurate Grand Seiko. My only real piece of advice: go see this dial in person. Please.

If you’ve ever encountered a watch like the Grand Seiko SBGY011, you’re likely a diehard 44GS fan like me. The model, when Grand Seiko released it in 2022, was a superb reissue of the highly coveted 44GS – a vintage Grand Seiko watch that has always been a landmark timepiece in the brand’s rich history. 

This original, of course, had a gold medallion caseback, which concealed a vintage movement behind its surface, while on top, an acrylic crystal completed the desirable vintage package that collectors so often loved.

But what makes the reference SBGY011 – the Asaborake Edition – so special, you ask? Well, there’s a lot to cover on the matter, most of which we’ll touch on when we discuss its design, movement, and dial. 

However, aside from blending form with function rather beautifully, the model also caused a dilemma amongst GS fans when it arrived on the scene a couple of years ago. 

How the SBGY011 Stole Hearts 

I remember the release of the SBGY011. It came around a month or so after the beautiful Omiwatari timepiece on the bracelet. That was some watch to get excited about. For those who don’t already know, the Omiwatari is an inspired design based on a natural phenomenon that occurs midwinter. 

When temperatures change across regions like Shiojiri, the birthplace of Grand Seiko, and home to Lake Suwa, the region’s frozen waters contract and expand.

This structural impact on the water’s surface is believed to be “God’s Footsteps” and a way for religious communities to observe the direction of these ridges and determine whether their year’s harvest will be fruitful. 

The Omiwatari watch by Grand Seiko also offered a Spring Drive movement, a robust case design (enhanced by the brand’s Zaratsu technique), and a beautifully textured dial that perfectly captured the natural fissures of the lake’s top. 

As you can tell from its brief introduction, the watch became a covetable timepiece rather swiftly and one that followed the brand’s Nature of Time theme that so many of the Japanese brand’s timepieces have adopted. 

So, you can understand that the arrival of the SBGY011 caused quite a dilemma for many of Grand Seiko’s discerning collectors who had just acquired this beautiful nature-inspired GS watch, complete with a quality finish and an impeccable movement, only for something equally as beautiful to hit their radar.

The latter was shrouded in a shimmering cloak of silvering tones that skilfully caught the light and boasted an architecture that tipped its hat to the beloved 44GS itself. Furthermore, the watch was only the second in the brand’s offerings to feature a manual wind Spring Drive movement in this 44GS style. 

This perhaps explains why a watch like the SBGY011 would pique the interest of such a devoted Grand Seiko collector. Sure, the watch oozes bucket loads of charm and a classic character (one of the reasons why I often fall under the spell of any pretty-looking Grand Seiko watch). 

But the allure of this model runs far deeper than the magnetic pull of the 44GS alone. Moreover, this is a celebration of some of the Japanese giant’s greatest technical feats. 

The History of the Grand Seiko 44GS

Although Grand Seiko was founded in the 1960s, the evolution of the brand during the 1980s and 1990s further emphasized the profound effect that the brand had on the watchmaking industry. It rose to fame during a transformative era, demonstrating that perfection was indeed a pursuit that never really ends anywhere. 

Furthermore, it is a lifestyle. A belief followed regimentally by every skilled craftsman working at the brand’s ateliers. Perfection is unattainable but, at the same time, the pinnacle of complete success, and therefore, something no brand should ever stop striving for. 

For decades, GS has consistently pushed the boundaries, both in technological innovations and aesthetics, and that was still the case when the 44GS arrived in 1967. Its distortion-free finishes and distinctive case geometry became a playground for light and shade to balance one another out in a harmonious dance. 

This was something that GS collectors had not seen before, but it was the work of Taro Tonaka. The 44GS was one of the earliest Grand Seiko case designs and would go on to embody the “Grand Seiko Style”. It was driven by this idea of a never-ending pursuit of perfection – an idealism whereby watches should “sparkle with quality”. 

The modern reinterpretations of the popular 44GS respect all the core values of the original while reimagining the icon for the modern collector. Of course, the new models are more ergonomically designed, making them great for daily companions. 

However, the crisp angles and the razor-like sleekness of the modern-day profile far surpass anything that even Grand Seiko experts could have imagined at the time. Despite the 44GS being such a collectible, the design of the younger SBGY011 exceeds expectations of mechanical performance and style by a country mile.

The guy responsible for achieving these once-unattainable principles is Nobuhiro Kosugi. As head designer of the modern generation, he had the know-how to bring this vision to reality. Kosugi began in the industry in 1973 as a case designer and joined Seiko Instruments twenty years later. He also had great influence over the models from Grand Seiko’s Heritage Collection, having supported the brand’s return to mechanical watchmaking after a hiatus.

Of course, achieving the modern 44GS-inspired watches would be no easy task. The complexity behind the processes required to capture the sharp edges, curved sides, and thin, tapering lugs of the 44GS would require some tactical problem-solving and a great deal of logical thinking. But today, the mirror-polished Zaratsu-finished models are nothing short of stunning, and that applies to watches like the Grand Seiko SBGY012.

The Case

Accomplishing the unique case structure of the modern 44GS-inspired watches from Grand Seiko was never going to be easy. To achieve the mirror-polished finishes that we have all come to know and love as a dedicated Grand Seiko community, the implementation of a precise machine was the only way to do it. 

And even then, holding the case up to the turning plate on the Zaratsu machine required an unimaginable level of skill and patience. Only those who have trained for many years inside the brand’s ateliers are trusted with the task of the traditional Zaratsu case polish, and this shows in every inch of the SBGY011 watch’s detailing.

This case technique certainly pushes the envelope, and what many still struggle to comprehend is the brand’s very modest pricing, especially when you compare this to several other more expensive offerings with a less-than-mediocre finish, shall we say? Seriously – take a look at the lugs and you’ll see your teeth through them! This watch takes the concept of the polished watch case to a whole other level. 

The case of the Grand Seiko Asaborake Edition reference SBGY011 is a series of sharp lines, flat surfaces, and crisp facets, where planes come together to produce levels and edges that create a complex tapestry of geometric angles. 

The curved finishes along the case side, combined with these other elements, are incredibly challenging to achieve and were not present in the original 44GS watches, but allow the case to sit closer to the wrist. The case takes up residence on the wrist at 10.2mm, allowing it to easily slip under a jacket or office suit.

Combined with these dimensions is a lug-to-lug measurement of 46.2mm, which makes it even more manageable for the smaller-wristed guy to carry off, even when compared to models like the SLGA013, which also adopts the 44GS-inspired architecture. 

The Dial 

“When dawn draws back the veil of night”. That’s the sole inspiration behind this beautiful Grand Seiko watch. To me, it’s that moment when light hits the earth, and everything picks up a muted shade of color. I think the relief of daybreak is perfectly captured in this edition. 

More specifically, the crack of dawn across the mountainous landscape where Grand Seiko watches are made in Shinshu. After all, this is where experts get so much inspiration from when creating their textured dials. 

While some brands specialize in crafting the perfect bracelet or dedicate their time to pioneering new complications, Grand Seiko’s niche is the handcrafted dial, so much so that it has become equally as recognizable for this trade as it has its impeccable movements. 

While the Four Seasons collection is home to colorful dials inspired by Japanese culture and nature, there are other models, like those from the Elegance Collection that share a similar three-dimensional quality with the Four Seasons line. 

However, the Heritage Collection, which features full-of-depth dial designs, like the Asaborake Edition, has thinner cases and graceful aesthetics that set this style apart from others in the catalog. 

And if you and your watch friends are bored to death of talking about movements and how much you spent on the latest addition to your collection, the dial of a Grand Seiko watch like the SBGY011 is actually a great talking point, especially when you know how each one is brought into existence. 

Of course, the Snowflake is the most widely referred to textured dial by Grand Seiko, mimicking the look of freshly fallen snow upon Japan’s unique landscape. Then there are examples like the White Birch and Sakura blossom editions – each one enticing in its own way. 

The dial of the SBGY011, however, boasts a beautifully textured off-white dial color and follows in the faithful footsteps of Taro Tonaka’s Grammar of Design philosophy. The hands and hour markers have multi-faceted surfaces that reflect the light beautifully, while the 12 o’clock location features double indices. 

The dial also features a blued steel hand, affording a subtle pop of color, and, interestingly, the dial appears rather glossy at first until you inspect it on a closer level. Here, you’ll be able to appreciate that special textured pattern that creates a sense of great depth. 

I think the absence of the date does the watch a favor here, especially in terms of creating a simple, no-fuss dial that’s also incredibly easy on the eye since the Asaborake has a very palatable, symmetrical layout. The features are all easy to track at a glance and sit underneath a strong box sapphire crystal glass front with anti-reflective treatment applied to its surface. 

Lastly, instead of featuring the power reserve of the Spring Drive movement on the dial side, experts at Grand Seiko have relocated it to the caseback. Therefore, the Asaborake reference SBGY011 is the perfect option for those who have always wanted a Spring Drive model but without the added complication on the dial side. 

The Movement

I’ve spoken in depth about the allure of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive movement before. But for the horologically curious, this is a revolutionary movement that radically changed the way consumers looked at Grand Seiko as a manufacturer. The concept came about in the 1970s in an attempt to create what GS experts described as an “everlasting watch”. 

The actual concept, even when you think about it now, seemed impossible. Creating a mechanical watch wound by a mainspring but with the one-second accuracy rating of quartz sounded unthinkable, but this is exactly what a Spring Drive movement is.

To help the 240-patent movement fulfill its role, GS experts equipped the Spring Drive with a Tri-Synchro regulator, which replaces the role of the escapement. The Spring Drive saw a brake added between the wheel and the other components of the movement, reducing friction and wear and tear. 

The result (and 600 prototypes later), the Spring Drive was a smooth, silently operating engine that promised a much longer life span. As such, you can admire the gracefully sweeping second hand of the watch as it glides across the dial – an instant giveaway of the revered Spring Drive movement.

The Calibre 9R31 inside the SBGY011 has put on a show behind a sapphire crystal glass exhibition caseback, complete with finely brushed bridges and elegant blued screws. The movement also provides a 72-hour power reserve for those occasions when you may want to alternate the watch with another favorite from your collection. 

The Strap

One key thing I have to mention about the Grand Seiko SBGY011 is its drilled lug holes, which make switching out the strap super easy. The watch naturally comes fitted to the black crocodile leather band but would look incredibly cool if configured to something more colorful like a dark blue or green alternative or even something more vintage-looking like a traditional calf leather band. As it stands, though, the high-quality black strap has large scales on the top and a supple calfskin layer underneath, making it exceptionally soft and comfortable against the skin.

Unfortunately, the watch isn’t offered on a bracelet option, but a factory bracelet from the GS range, particularly one made for the original 44GS watch, would look just as cool. Meanwhile, if you fancied something a little sportier, a rubber band would give the watch a more relaxed edge. 

Likewise, a 19mm Epsom strap could provide the SBGY011 with a real pop of color, especially one with contrast stitching. Whatever you decide to fit the SBGY0011 on, you’ll still have several options, although strap finding would certainly be a lot easier if the lug width measured a more mainstream 20mm.

How It Wears

As I mentioned earlier, the case of the Grand Seiko SBGY011 is a complex series of polished angles, ridges, and curves that are not easy to achieve. But doing so with such tenacity does enable Grand Seiko experts to achieve a more ergonomic fit for the wrist. 

Having looked at the case in some serious detail, I can see that this watch would cause no issue under the cuff of any shirt sleeve, and its 40mm case size is certainly a versatile fit for most wrist circumferences.

 No doubt, what you will love most about wearing the Asaborake Edition is its clever dimensions. Just how does the Japanese watchmaker produce a watch that looks so contoured without it wearing too large on the wrist? 

Lug-to-lug, the case measures 46.2mm, and this is a crucial detail to how the watch wears. Even on my female wrist, that case is destined to sit compactly and comfortably, even with the wide surfaces of the 44GS case. The trade-off of having a manual winding movement inside that case, as opposed to an automatic, is golden. As such, it’s likely one of the best-fitting Grand Seiko’s of its kind because of it.

Going back to my earlier point about the Omiwatari Edition, if that watch was too small for you and you’re looking for something with a little more wrist presence, this is the ticket. It’s 2mm larger than the 38mm Omiwatari, and I personally think it has a more versatile dial colour too.

The Price

The Grand Seiko Asaborake SBGY011 watch currently retails for $8,300. And while it’s not the cheapest of GS watches, the value in this watch is evident throughout the design. The watch may not exactly appreciate in value the older it gets but, as with all Grand Seiko watches, it will hold value well. 

We already talked about the longevity of this watch when discussing the movement itself. But generally speaking, because Grand Seiko watches are brought together using the highest quality materials and several time-honored processes and techniques – you can rest assured that this is a watch will deliver in values of accuracy and legibility for years to come.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko Asaborake calls to mind the hazy morning light across the Shinshu backdrop that forms around the Grand Seiko studios and, like an oil painting, captures those nuances and textures across its dial perfectly, using processes and design concepts that many other brands could only ever aspire to grasp.

Aside from the dial itself, this is a practical daily beater that utilizes one of the most accurate mechanical movements on the planet, yet it’s a versatile, comfortable fit for most wrist sizes, too. What’s not to love? 

The character and culture of different nations are often on full display in the products they produce. Certainly, this is true of Japan, where companies and employees show great pride in their work and strive for the highest levels of quality and consistency. The reverence of nature that is so integral to the soul of the nation is present as well.

The Swiss have centuries of watchmaking excellence that earned their place at the top of the world of horology. But Grand Seiko more than deserves to be in the conversation. The Japanese brand consistently releases new models in new collections noted for their beauty, accuracy, and reliability. They combine the heritage of the past with the innovations of the future. Let’s take a good look at the Grand Seiko SLGA021 Lake Suwa.

History

Grand Seiko never rests on its laurels, and in 2020, it released the Evolution 9 Collection. It was so named because the watches in the collection represented an evolution in aesthetics, legibility, and style. The number “9” is the highest single-digit number and represents the highest level of quality.

The timepieces in the collection include divers, chronographs, and sporty, smart casual watches. One of the best-looking, in my humble opinion, is the SLGA021. Called the Lake Suwa because the dial was inspired by the pastoral body of water that sits near Grand Seiko’s studio in Japan’s Kiso Mountains, this is a watch every lover of fine timepieces should take a good look at.

Case

The 40 mm round case is made from high-intensity stainless steel. The surfaces are mostly brushed with very little of Grand Seiko’s trademark Zaratsu polishing. This gives it a more rugged look, which I like. It’s not a blingy watch crying for attention, which gives it plenty of versatility as to what you can wear it with.

The high-intensity steel is lighter than standard stainless which makes for a very nice feel on the wrist. The diameter is right in my wheelhouse for case sizes on my average-sized 7.25-inch wrist. People with smaller wrists will be happy to know that with a 47.6 mm lug-to-lug and 11.7 mm thickness, the watch doesn’t wear big and suits a wide variety of wrist sizes. The only watch lovers who may have a problem are those with beefy wrists approaching  8 inches.

The 3-o’clock crown is a screw-down and big enough to make setting the time easy but not so big as to ruin the aesthetics. The crown and case provide 100 meters of water resistance, making it perfectly safe in the rain, and you could do some surface swimming in it. If you want to explore the depths, there are divers in the collection. 

The scratch-resistance dual-curve sapphire crystal fits in with the sporty elegance of the watch and is coated with anti-reflective material on the inside to let you get a good look at the time in any lighting condition. The exhibition case back is made of the same material with the same coating, so you can enjoy viewing and showing off the movement. 

Dial

If you are even a little familiar with Grand Seiko watches, you will not be surprised when I tell you that the SLGA021 dial is the star of this timepiece. The brand is truly a master when it comes to the color, texture, and response to the light of its dials. 

Grand Seiko has several watches with dials that are inspired by Lake Suwa. The SLGA007 has a blue dial so designed. However, the dial on the SLGA021 is a deeper shade of blue that represents the surface of Lake Suwa just before dawn.

In most lighting situations, the blue is dark, close to navy, but when the sun or other bright light hits the dial, you get flashes of lighter blues. The color is dynamic, which makes this watch one that you will tend to look at for more than just checking the time.

As beautiful as the color is, what puts the dial over the top is the texture. The pattern looks just like lapping waves and ripples on a lake. You owe it to yourself to see the SLGA021 in person if you can. As much as I love my Omega Seamaster, its wave-engraved blue dial can’t hold a candle to Lake Suwa. 

Another aspect of dials that Grand Seiko is renowned for is legibility. The indices and handset are precision-cut stainless steel with brushed surfaces that perfectly complement the case and are easy to see against the blue dial. The 12 o’clock index is a triple baton and the others double with tapering minute and hour hands and a needle second hand.

The Grand Seiko logo and name are displayed in silver at 12 o’clock and match up nicely with the hands and indices. 

The minute track sits around the outer edge and is easy to read with small ticks and slightly larger squares at the five-minute marks. There is a date complication at 3 o’clock with a brushed stainless steel frame. 

The number is a simple black font on a plain white background. Some people have expressed a preference for a date background that matches the dial, but remember, Grand Seiko is all about easy-to-read watches. The white complements the dial and stands out. I think they made the right choice here. 

There is no lume to be found at all. Although not 100% necessary, I like a nice bright lume on my more casual watches. It’s not enough to make me not want to own and wear the SLGA021, but a little lume would have been nice. 

Movement

Grand Seiko’s in-house movements are also innovative and impressive. The SLGA021 is powered by the caliber 9RA2 Spring Drive 38-jewel movement. One of Grand Seiko’s most impressive achievements is this movement, which combines the status of an automatic mechanical movement with the superior accuracy of quartz. 

The movement rates +/- 0.5 seconds per day. Yes, it’s that accurate. Equally impressive is the five-day power reserve. That’s right. You can put the SLGA021 down on Monday, pick it up on Friday, and it will still be running. That is a helluva movement.

Thanks to the exhibition case back, you can take a look at the power reserve indicator on the movement. It’s nothing special, looks-wise. Stainless with the Grand Seiko logo and name in blue, along with the words “5 Days”. I do like the blue needle on the power reserve, though. It pops. 

Straps

The bracelet is made from the same high-intensity stainless steel as the case and has a satin finish to match. It’s a three-link in a unique design. This is my least favorite part of the SLGA021. 

It looks good enough and holds nicely on the wrist with the threefold clasp, but it doesn’t have micro-adjustments. This is a watch that could easily be a GADA, but there is no easy way to adjust the bracelet when your wrist swells and contracts. 

The sizing is done with push pins rather than screws, as you would expect for a watch at this price point. The lug width is a standard 22 mm, which makes the bracelet easy to swap out. The SLGA021 looks good on pretty much any bracelet, leather, or even rubber or silicone straps. You’ve got plenty of options. 

On-Wrist Experience

Thanks to the high-intensity stainless steel, the SLGA021 feels light and comfortable on the wrist. The 40 mm case and 22 mm lug width are on the large side for current Grand Seiko watches. Unless your wrist is very small, it should still look and feel good. The 11.7 mm thickness will fit under most shirt cuffs, making it a watch that can be worn by everyday wearers and work with casual to smart casual outfits.

You could wear it with a suit, but if you’re dressing to the nines, you might want to go with something dressier. The Lake Suwa is more for dressing to the sevens or less. A button-up casual or dressy shirt, polo, or sport jacket, with slacks, chinos, or jeans, will pair well with this watch for a sharp look. You could also wear it with shorts and a nice T-shirt.

Colorwise, the sky’s the limit. Dark blue is a neutral color, and so are the stainless steel surfaces. You really can wear the SLGA021 with any color you may have in your wardrobe. That’s a nice accessory to have. 

My color palette is mainly black, grays, dark blues, and greens. This watch works beautifully with any of them. I don’t wear hot colors like reds or pinks, but I could see it providing a nice contrast to those.

Price & Availability

If you are intrigued and thinking about picking up one of these stunning timepieces, you can get one at a Grand Seiko boutique or from their website. An authorized dealer, such as Exquisite Timepieces, will also be able to hook you up. 

If you are in the Naples, FL, area, stop by our boutique. You really should see this watch in person. Otherwise, you can order it from our website. You’ll get free domestic shipping, and as an AD, we will give you Grand Seiko’s five-year warranty. 

The SLGA021 retails for $9,300, which is a good price for a quality watch from a prestigious brand. If you want to go the preowned route, you can grab one for between $6,300 and $8,500. 

Conclusion

Grand Seiko has an entire catalog of watches with gorgeous dials. The SLGA021 Lake Suwa takes it up a few levels. Combined with the overall design, the super-accurate movement, and the Grand Seiko status, this is a watch any lover of horology should check out. Once you put it on, you might never take it off.