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As a commemorative gesture to the 44GS, which coined the Grand Seiko style, the watchmaker created the SBGJ255. The style of this watch definitely holds up to the status of a 55th anniversary and makes for a clean-looking statement piece.

You’ll find that the SBGJ255 features the same original 44GS look. However, it also comes with many unique design choices that make it stand out on its own. The watch was released in 2022, but it’ll be talked about for many years to come due to what it represents.

Choosing a luxury watch comes with several questions, but getting into the details of the components can help guide the decision-making process. In this article, you’ll learn everything you need to know about the Grand Seiko SBGJ255.

An Iconic Addition to the 44GS Lineage

Although the SBGJ225 was released back in 2022, interest in the watch still stands strong to this day. It features the notable aspects of the original Grand Seiko 44GS from 1967, with modern elements that’ll make you take a second look.

I respect the design choices that went into this 55th-anniversary limited edition, but what sold me was the fact it’s part of the Heritage collection. The historical significance on top of the simplistic design choices is perfect from my standpoint.

Considering it’s a limited edition, many enthusiasts are happy to get their hands on one. Even though you can find the SBGJ255 online, that doesn’t mean you should wait too long to shop around. This watch itself may not have a long history on the market, but the callback to the 1967 44GS inevitably makes it a timeless addition to the GS lineup.

Looking Into the Case

With a 40mm diameter, the case on this watch features a pretty standard size that looks great on most average wrist sizes. I’m always thankful for an open case back, as looking at the internal movement going to work is a beautiful sight to see. It’s important to note that the watch takes aspects from the 44GS style, but it isn’t an identical model or reissue.

I appreciate the case’s nice shine due to the Zaratsu polishing. For a little contrast, Grand Seiko always makes sure to add a little variation, which can be seen in the hints of brushed titanium.

A few other classic elements of this watch include a curved sideline, a polished bezel, and dual-curved sapphire crystal. The flat surface of the case is free of distortion. The small details make me take a deeper look, and the case delivers a uniformity that’s easy to marvel at.

The watch may be fitting for many different people, but the sizable nature of the case can feel more prominent from any angle. For me, this isn’t so much a deal breaker, but understandably, many people might not prefer a bulkier case.

I was a bit surprised by the half-recessed crown and their choice of a reverse-slanted bezel. It isn’t something I expected, but I love that Grand Seiko took this route. It makes for a much more uniform and pristine look, among other features. Some say that the case is thick and bulky, and although this is true to some degree, I can’t really say it’s a deal breaker. Maybe for some, but the case size blends perfectly with all of the surrounding features from my point of view.

Dialing In on the Details

At a glance, the dial may seem relatively simple, but there’s a surprising amount of detail put into every aspect of it. I have always loved a good colorway, but I’m really looking for how that color looks in the dial texture. The SBGJ255 comes with a vertical grain texture that looks great from every angle, and it’s known to be inspired by shōji screens.

The LumiBrite hands and hour markers make sure you can read the time in all light conditions, and the hands feature the same polish as the case. I love the fact it offers a subtle sparkle in the light but doesn’t come off too flashy at all. 

Little color accents are another detail that I look for in a GS watch. The Grand Seiko logo on the dial comes in a light blue, and this same color is seen in the “GMT” text, inner 24-hour markers, and the GMT hand as well.

Even with all of these minor details, I would still consider the dial to be pretty minimalist. Grand Seiko comes with a wide variety of timepieces, but I generally prefer when they take a simpler approach to the design. There’s a certain harmony found in every GS watch, and the SBGJ255 is a leading example of how they execute this with precision.

I’m not particularly interested in blue colorways, but the hints of blue against the white dial contrast the overall simplicity. You can easily read the watch in standard or military time, and the GMT hand makes it easy to track changing time zones.

The Movement That Makes the SBGJ255 Tick

Part of what has made Grand Seiko such a sought-after watchmaker over time is their dedication to in-house movements. The Caliber 9S86 is what puts this watch in motion. It’s a high-frequency movement that ticks at 36,000 vibrations per hour (vph). This creates an extremely smooth motion for the seconds hand on top of impressive accuracy.

I’m easily impressed when it comes to GS movements, as their engineering is amazing across the board. What really gets me is watching the movement go to work as every finite component blends perfectly with the next. 

Wearers get the benefit of a 55-hour power reserve. For those who don’t know, the power reserve is a part of the watch’s reliable performance between windings. The mean daily rate is +5 to -3 seconds per day, and most people would consider this level of accuracy pretty exceptional.

I get pretty excited about the GMT functionality, as I don’t have a watch in my collection that has this feature. It allows for independent adjustment of the hour hand without affecting the flow of the seconds hand. For those who travel frequently, this can be a nice feature to make sure the watch is always on time.

If you get a chance to look closely, you’ll notice the titanium rotor of the movement has a gold tone to it. This comes from a special anodic oxidation process, giving the rotor a very distinct look.

It’s also important to note that the rotor is skeletonized, which gives you a better view of the decorated movement below it. Once I understood the collaborative performance features of this watch, I had to try it for myself. I’m not necessarily prone to a specific movement, but I do love the amount of engineering, design, and detail that can be marveled at any time you want.

Strap Qualities

I can see how the strap might look pretty basic to most people, but it’s more about the overall qualities that make it stand out. First and foremost, they always sell me on the high-intensity titanium. I’ll always prefer that over stainless steel, as it’s sturdy yet lightweight and undoubtedly beautiful.

Featuring a 19mm band width, it’ll feel pretty uniform around the wrist, and it tapers a bit down to 18mm. This helps to maintain proportion to the case so that one component isn’t taking the spotlight over another. Cohesiveness is a norm in Grand Seiko watches, but you can’t really tell until you try it on for yourself.

When I was able to put on the SBGJ255, it was immediately apparent that it was a great fit. At least for me, I didn’t feel like any adjustments needed to be made. The band is also equipped with screw links, as well as half links for proper sizing. However, a slight downside is that it doesn’t come built with micro-adjustments.

Aside from that, the folding clasp feels sturdy and secure, and it’s built with a seamless safety push-button release. If you simply aren’t a fan of the strap, you can easily swap it out, thanks to the drilled lugs. 

Finding replacement straps for GS watches seems to be a common challenge for me, but I rarely ever want to change in the first place. If you want the true Grand Seiko experience, I think it’s important to keep all of the original components.

Part of the classic look of the strap stems from their choice of polished intermediate links. This contrasts the primary brushed look of the strap, adding a little shine around your entire wrist. Of course, this isn’t overbearing, as Grand Seiko knows exactly how to accent a luxury watch.

How it Feels on the Wrist

Some of this will come down to personal preference, but in my opinion, it’s pretty easy to describe how this watch feels on the wrist. For me, it’s an immediate everyday wear. I can see how the white dial could be reserved for certain occasions, but it isn’t flashy enough to distract from casual outfits.

Although the watch dimensions are fitting for a variety of wrist sizes, it’s still optimal for a particular range. Those who have 6 to 7.5” wrists will have the best experience with the SBGJ255. Once again, with adjustments and a little wiggle room over 7.5”, the timepiece is more than suitable for many common wrist sizes.

I will agree that the thickness of the watch is noticeable. It isn’t something that can be ignored exactly, but it isn’t a detail that affects everyday wear. The watch easily hides behind my wrist cuffs and never catches on the edges due to its dimensions.

In the past, I was actually more inclined to swap straps out for leather, but polished titanium is starting to change that preference. There was a time when I would have thought this watch was too flashy. Now that I have a better understanding of Grand Seiko and their design process, I have immense appreciation for their stance on titanium.

Blending practical functionality and high-end beauty, the SBGJ255 can quickly become your new family heirloom. From my standpoint, the watch is more than viable for professional and casual settings. Overall, the day-to-day experience of wearing the SBGJ255 is more than comfortable and fashionable, all in one.

Pricing and Availability

Any Grand Seiko watch is bound to come with a sizable price tag, but they do range from affordable to expensive. Regarding the SBGJ255, I feel this watch hits a sweet spot somewhere in the middle. You can find the timepiece retailed at $8,500. On the other hand, you can look into pre-owned pricing, which can range from $4,000 to $7,500, depending on various factors.

When you compare this to other GS watches and luxury watches from other brands, the asking price is more than understandable. For me, my price cap is usually $10,000, as that’s a bit hard for me to warrant, but anything underneath that is more than enough.

I plan on keeping mine for quite a long time, considering the fact it’s a limited edition. With these types of watches, you never know how much harder they’ll be able to find as time goes on. Since the SBGJ255 is only a few years old at this point, it’s still pretty easy to source online.

Shopping online is always easy to do, but finding reputable watchmakers and retailers is a different story. The Grand Seiko name speaks for itself, but you want to find a retailer that has experience with the brand and the industry as a whole.

If you’re looking for a retailer that can exceed your expectations, working with Exquisite Timepieces is the only back-end support you need. Not only can you find the SBGJ255 in all its glory, but we will walk you through all of your questions and concerns. Buying a GS watch should be considered a lifelong commitment; finding a retailer that understands this is crucial.

Final thoughts

Grand Seiko may have a long line of watches and collections, but you don’t want to miss out on the SBGJ255 55th anniversary limited edition. These aren’t always common, and I’d argue this watch specifically is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. GS leans heavily into its heritage, and it can be seen and felt in every detail of the SBGJ255.

Don’t hesitate to reach out to us at Exquisite Timepieces. Whether you have questions regarding the SBGJ255 or another design, we’re more than happy to provide the guidance you’re looking for.

I have long marveled at Grand Seiko watches. Since the brand seized the opportunity of independence, and indeed before that too, its designs always had the innate ability to catch the attention of collectors worldwide. Long may that continue. 

The Japanese brand, with roots firmly anchored in Iwate soil, has never taken its foot off the gas, whether in the form of new movements, dial patterns, or designs inspired by all things whimsical, wild, and wonderful. 

One watch that deserves some serious consideration (if you’re looking for a solid, classic, and reliable daily beater) is the Grand Seiko SBGN023. Bear with me while I purify my thoughts a little further…

An Overview of the Grand Seiko SGBN023

The Grand Seiko SGN023 belongs to the company’s Sport Collection and forms part of its rich and expansive tapestry of horological creations. Here, like with all other Grand Seiko watch families, philosophical craftsmanship is woven into the cultural fabric of the collection, with designs that honor “The Nature of Time” through its concept of “Takumi”. 

The Sport collection is home to models powered by the legendary Spring Drive revelation, chronographs, and, of course, GMT complications. The SBGN023 falls into the latter category – a complication primed for those who like to travel frequently but also those who just love the style and functionality of the feature.

Some of the model’s key features include an 18k gold lion logo, emblazoned onto the back of the case, a distinctive arrow-tipped GMT hand in yellowy-gold for tracking an additional time zone, and a thermocompensated quartz movement for unparalleled accuracy. 

Stick with me as I attempt to delve into these features in more detail. I’ll also share my thoughts on how this watch will wear, how it keeps time, and how it imbues classic style when worn.

140 Years of Seiko History

Even relatively young brands will try to play into the “history” element of their timepieces. Can you blame them? History sells. Stories, indeed, sell. They give meaning to a timepiece and provide the basis for an interesting conversation starter (it certainly beats entertaining small talk). 

Even if a brand only dates back a few years, it will always try to sell a watch with a bit of a story. Where Grand Seiko is concerned, however, history really does mean just that. It has 140 years of the stuff, having been conceptualized at Suwa Seikosha, home of the world-famous Seiko. Its first watch arrived in 1961, but Seiko’s rich legacy reaches back much further than that.

You see, the founder of Seiko, Kintarō Hattori, had been holding onto one singular vision. To develop something more refined and more exquisite than the affordable, well-built designs that Seiko became so renowned for. As good as they were, Hattori wanted more. He believed that one day, his future Grand Seiko concept would epitomize Japanese craftsmanship. And, so it did.

Let’s turn the calendar pages back to the year of 1960. It was a decade of innovation, liberation, and a time when people were obsessed with precision. The first Grand Seiko didn’t just mark the release of a new watch, it was a manifestation of a long-nurtured dream. It marked the beginning of a very transformative era in watchmaking. 

For brands like itself, it was an era of horological advancements and an opportunity for Grand Seiko to prove to the world what it could bring to the table, both in terms of refined precision and technical prowess. Thus, 140 years on from the founding of Seiko, watches like the SBGN023 are still paying homage to these very foundations. 

The limited-edition watch, exclusive to 2,021 pieces, nods to the year of its release (2021) and embodies, in the purest of ways, Hattori’s motto; “Always one step ahead of the rest”.

The Case

Allow me to quickly shun the notion that only the Germans and the Swiss can manufacture timepieces to first-class standards. It is simply not the case. While Seiko may manufacture some very accessible quartz watches (which offer a lot of bang for your buck!), Grand Seiko crafts superlative designs that often only elicit praise from those who understand the company and its origins.

Grand Seiko has gained unequivocal respect from those of a non-judgemental standpoint. Those who don’t confuse the two brands as being the same thing. The reality is that Grand Seiko has worked hard to stand tall on its own and has proudly stepped out of the shadow of its much larger sibling quite some years ago. 

The two should not be confused – not because either one is superior to the other. Moreover, they both compete in totally different leagues. Credit, therefore, should be given to both respective brands, regardless of how they compare to one another.

On that point, it is remarkably easy to identify the SBGN023 as a Grand Seiko watch, just from the look of the case alone. In previous reviews, I have gone into great depth on the signature Zaratsu polish that Grand Seiko artisans apply to the brand’s designs. 

Where watches from the Sport Collection are concerned, Zaratsu favors the angular architecture of the case, coaxing out the hairline finishes and sharp, ridge-like lines that form its prominent sporty nature. The interplay between light and shadow is always what has me gazing into the perfect contours of a Grand Seiko case for hours.

Flip the case over, and more details reveal themselves. The 18k gold lion emblem is one of my favorite features of the Sport Collection, and there it is, in all its glory, concealing yet another horological feat by way of the thermocompensated quartz movement. 

The movement sits behind a caseback equipped with 200-meter water resistance, keeping perfect time within an anti-magnetic construction. The case also features a 4 o’clock GS-engraved screw-down to avoid snagging and a fixed bezel adorned with legible Arabic numerals in a glossy ceramic inlay for keeping track of an additional time zone.

The Dial

There are several elements that I really like about the dial of this GS watch. Radiating out from the center of the dial is a subtly ribbed pattern, reaching right out to the periphery. What makes this feature particularly special is that you don’t always see it. 

Should you catch the dial under the right angle of light, the SBGN023 rewards you with a sunburst-like effect, which illuminates pockets of the display that you don’t always get to appreciate. I guess what really resonates with me is the idea that the design keeps on giving, even after that initial “honeymoon” period.

The use of yellow-gold accents on the dial is also really clever because (and here’s something else that may surprise you) the surface they sit on isn’t black. It’s a really rich brown shade that, once again, can trick you into thinking you’re looking at something that you’re not. Seldom have I seen brown and yellow-gold nuances used in this way in a watch before, and I’m here for it.

The golden yellow tones continue with the familiar GS logo at 12 o’clock and in the daytime hours of the GMT watch’s 24-hour rehaut. The remainder of the 24-hour track is dark to signify the nighttime hours. Having spent many, many years discussing watch features with connoisseurs, I have come to realize that a dislike of the 4:30 date is a very common theme. 

In this design, GS chooses the 4 o’clock location for its date aperture. It’s a decision that I feel works pretty well, but I can also appreciate that a sense of balance is lost when a manufacturer does this. A nice addition (since many GS watches don’t feature it) is the well-lumed hour markers and hands that guide the way to clear, legible timekeeping in the dark.

The Movement

Let’s be real for a second: quartz snobbery is never going to go away. Many connoisseurs feel that a mechanical is simply more authentic than a quartz, but there are bad quartz movements and good, and Grand Seiko certainly sits in the latter field. 

In many cases, deciding between a mechanical and a quartz is not all that tough a task. No one should feel it’s about proving how much you know about horology, but mechanical movements do tend to be the favored one of the two. 

But the thermocompensated quartz sitting inside this watch is certainly worth a mention here because even though quartz, in general, offers better accuracy than a mechanical movement, this type of quartz is even more superior to the standard type. With an accuracy of – /+ 10 seconds per year, the Grand Seiko SBGN023 is likely the most accurate thing you’ll have in your collection. 

If you’re not familiar with thermocompensated quartz movements, they work in a very similar way to standard quartz movements. Still, there are a few key differences that make the performance and accuracy of the thermocompensated variety more reliable and superior.

Piezoelectric energy is what keeps a watch running, and the vibration of the quartz crystal is what keeps a watch so accurate (more accurate than a mechanical movement). A quartz crystal vibrates a staggering total of 32,768 every second of the day. The electronics of the quartz movement unlock the power generated by the quartz crystal in the same way that an escape lever does in a mechanical watch.

Now, thermocompensated cuts appear on some quartz crystals, which reduce temperature fluctuations that could otherwise affect how the quartz operates inside the watch. Quartz movements tend to have tuning fork-shaped cuts in the crystal, which, over the years, has worked well to carry the tradition of quartz watchmaking through to present-day wristwatches. 

However, thermocompensated quartz movements take more precision to cut, and they maintain a nice equilibrium inside the watch, regulating and maintaining a harmonious performance deep at the heart of the movement.

What this achieves is a situation where thermodynamic pressure is regulated, and the electric signals inside the watch generally don’t fall victim to the negative effect that external conditions and changing environmental temperatures could otherwise have on them. 

While Japanese brands like Citizen, Seiko, and Grand Seiko are the heavy hitters in the field of thermocompensated quartz watches, we’re gradually seeing more companies expand their offerings within this category. For some brands, this type of quartz movement is their way of competing on the same level as high-end mechanical movement manufacturers do. 

The 9F Quartz series is one of the most refined and supreme of all the Grand Seiko quartz movements. Within this movement family is the Calibre 9F86, which debuted in 2018, offering a GMT function. The distinctive and graceful presence of the smoothly operating second hand is one key giveaway of the movement. It is perfectly controlled thanks to the movement’s backlash auto-adjust mechanism. 

This works like a hairspring, resisting the second hand’s counterbalance, offering stabilization as it ticks. Without a shudder or even a jolt, this hand travels across the dial of the SBGN023 effortlessly, day and night, without relying on the movement of your wrist or requiring manual winding. 

The mechanical movement has a high torque and uses little energy despite its impressive accuracy. Its Twin Pulse Control Motor propels the heavy hands around the dial with ease, making for a particularly pleasing visual experience.

The Strap

Grand Seiko fits the SBNG023 watch on a tapering 20mm Oyster-like bracelet crafted from stainless steel. I mention this because a slight tapering can, in fact, enable a watch to appear and feel smaller on the wrist. 

This is a good thing if your wrists tend to measure on the small side. Generally speaking, a wrist measuring a diameter of 6 inches or more can carry a 40mm watch without a problem, but straight bracelet designs certainly make a watch feel bigger and more masculine.

The 20mm stainless steel bracelet on this watch tapers down to a nice 18mm diameter at the clasp end, where it meets with a GS-engraved clasp executed in a mix of brushed and polished finishes. 

If you tend to remove your watch for various tasks throughout the day, you’ll appreciate how easy the clasp is to manipulate under the fingertips. The twin trigger is functional and practical, but unfortunately, this watch has no micro-adjustment mechanism. Perhaps if there was one thing to change about the SBGN023, this would be it.

On the upside, you do get half links for accurate sizing, which are afforded by slot screws on either side of the bracelet. So, if you do need to get this bracelet altered, you’re guaranteed to get a snug fit. 

The overall execution of the bracelet, including the brushed and polished links, is done to a high level, as one would expect of any Grand Seiko watch. The bracelet tolerance, craftsmanship, finishes, flexibility, and overall build quality are exceptional.

How It Wears

It’s important to note that Grand Seiko doesn’t make watches simply for them to be reduced to mere functional instruments. Wearing one of these Japanese watches is more a lifestyle choice rather than a practical necessity. The SGBN023 is no exception to this rule. It wears as you’d expect any Grand Seiko to wear: comfortably and ergonomically, but it’s also absolutely stylish.

This GMT watch has some heft to it. Its case is undeniably beefy when you compare it to those from, say, the Elegance Collection. But you have to remember that this is intended as a sports watch. The fact that it’s classic enough to wear on dressier occasions is just an added bonus. 

First and foremost, the watch is designed to face all testing conditions and external environments. You’ll notice that the lugs are truncated, and the case is more angular. The bracelet certainly adds some weight to the model, but you have options to switch that out for something more lightweight if you want to.

In terms of basic dimensions, the watch will still appeal to those with smaller-than-average wrists, and that’s because it has a case diameter of 40mm. Having said that, its lug-to-lug length measures 46.5mm, and its case depth measures 13.1mm, so it’s certainly not the slimmest of GS GMTs.

The Price

Now, it’s time to address the elephant in the room. When the SBGN023 was first unveiled, it disgruntled many collectors. The price tag seemed steep for a quartz watch. As I divulged earlier, however, this is not just any quartz movement. The Quartz 9F is a special variation, reflecting the highest deity of the quartz breed. For that, you would expect to pay a price on par with any mechanical watch. 

And when you weigh up the fact that it has a guaranteed accuracy of -/+ 10 seconds per year, the price of this watch doesn’t seem so far-fetched after all. The watch currently retails for $5,450 at authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces, which is more than reasonable in my humble opinion.

The Takeaway 

The Grand Seiko SBGN023 is a thing of beauty. Imbued with sportiness and coupled with a travel-friendly GMT function, you could want for nothing more than what this neat 40mm package offers. Inside the watch is not just any quartz movement but a thermocompensated one. 

Equipped with an innovative regulating switch, the movement can be adjusted and compensated if it ever operates too slow or too fast. It’s a superior level of quartz timekeeping that promises – /+ 10 seconds per year, giving it unbeatable accuracy and, more than likely, rivaling anything else you’ll ever have in your collection. Suffice it to say, the movement alone is an interesting proposition, owing to its collectability.

What appeals to me more than anything, however, is the bread and butter basics of every grand Seiko watch: a case that wears easily on the average-sized wrist, a profound level of case finishing for its price point, and a helping of color here and there.

Wherever Grand Seiko is concerned, there is never any doubt of originality. Indeed, no plagiarism here – the brand has worked hard to achieve an identity of its own, stepping away from the Seiko name and forging a reputation that speaks of quality craftsmanship and high-end finishes. Moreover, the crisp dial of the SBGN023 is eminently legible, with details that coalesce with one another tastefully. 

This is a watch that I feel reigns supreme for its classic beauty and timeless case shape. For me – zero questions asked on why any collector would opt for this quartz GS watch over any mechanical one. The SBGN023 is easy on the eye, super accurate, and comfortable enough to do travel, sport, and life with.

Nature and culture are two prevalent topics that serve as fundamental bases for Japanese society. They complement each other indubitably. Nature weaves itself in and out of Japanese culture, and in turn, the culture pays its respects by holding nature to an elevated standard. 

The Grand Seiko SBGJ271 takes this concept and recognizes the beauty that can be achieved by combining nature and culture in ways that make you appreciate the immense value each brings to the table. The way in which we live our lives is a reflection of the nature around us. 

The snowy angelic dial also gives off a reflection, perhaps symbolizing how this industrialized world’s greatest feat is simply the landscape on which they reside, something completely out of their control. 

The whiteness of the dial resembles the flooring of Japanese households and Buddhist temples, which mirror the ground after a fresh snowfall, yet again alluding to the idea that everything mankind articulates is simply a byproduct of our planet.

Seiko brings its grand vision to life in this stunning piece. The watch embodies a wintery feel—a quiet, desolate, snowy landscape untrodden by man and never thawing. Its frosty, sharp design is simply beautiful, making it one of my personal favorite Grand Seiko pieces. 

As we explore the expertly crafted mechanics that make this watch stand out, pay attention to how each aspect of the design pays tribute to Japanese culture and recognize how important the Japanese deem nature, as they pay homage to it at every turn. 

History

In 2023, the SBGJ271 became a part of the Elegance GMT 4 seasons collection, joining pieces that characterize the earliest Grand Seiko creations, fitting in with the soft design and round structure of its counterparts. It’s very similar to the SBGJ249, sharing similarities to the bracelet and case. 

However, where the 249 symbolizes the rainy season, the 271 most notably characterizes the winter. Both watches keep true to the message the Elegance collection attempts to convey, which is that everything always has multiple layers, and there is always much more than meets the eye in every piece. 

Case 

Inspired by the original 62GS case but fitted with more modern dimensions, the case has a diameter of 39.5mm, a lug-to-lug of 46.9mm, and a thickness of 14.1mm. It is made of flawless stainless steel, and the entire case has a Zaratsu finish, giving it a stunning presence. Shiny and elegant, the stainless steel laces the whole piece in a soft, luxurious style, like freshly fallen snow.

Keeping with the winter theme, the box-domed sapphire crystal sits elevated, like a thin layer of ice above a frozen lake. I’ve always been a fan of the box-domed style, as I feel it gives a vintage feel to it, as opposed to the way other crystals sit, not to mention that it offers another layer of protection, keeping the dial from getting scratched. The bezel tremendously compliments it, with its curved, well-polished edges perfectly blending with the smooth, icy layer of the dome.

The vintage-style non-screw-down crown resides at the 3 position. It sits discreetly but does not diminish the stunning beauty of the Zaratsu-finished stainless steel. The watch’s powerful 9S86 is visible through the see-through case back, giving a pleasing view of the piece’s heart and giving perspective on just how talented these watchmakers are. 

See-throughs have always been my preference, as I prefer the more open and intricate feel that comes with admiring the mechanical portion of my watch as well as the aesthetics. 

Overall, the case does its job very well. It gives off the unmistakable aesthetic of a fresh winter, blending the icy style with a vintage design. Its ultimate goal, however, is to highlight the real star of the show: the dial. 

Dial 

Reminiscent of lacquered Japanese flooring, the dial’s stark white coloring is brilliant and bold. The unique pattern combines modern design while also incorporating the vintage theme the rest of the watch is striving for. The team at Grand Seiko decided they wanted to embody the look of an outdoor Buddhist temple reflecting the freshly fallen snow residing on the trees above. 

They combined the unmistakable beauty of a fresh winter with something essential to Japanese culture, giving the dial a beautiful aesthetic and a symbolic tone that hovers over the rest of the piece. 

The dial has the standard traditional GMT 4 seasons collection layout, with the 24-hour markers cramped toward the center. But this piece has a unique black-colored GMT hand that we aren’t used to seeing from other GMT pieces, as most GMT hands have vibrant colors. The bold black contrasts the stark white in a sophisticated manner that causes both colors to expand to their full aesthetic potential. 

The markers are a gold bar style, with two residing at the 12, 9, and 6 positions instead of one, while a smaller marker can be found at the 3 position right next to the date window. A dark silver GS logo sits in the middle of the snow, complementing the dark GMT hand while contrasting the white dial. 

Overall, the dial alone advocates for purchasing the entire piece. It looks incredible in its own right and elevates everything else on the watch, bringing a style that feels like an old vintage piece. The unique texture is what highlights the dial for me. 

I love how watchmakers threaded bits of their own culture and how it reflects the beauty of the seasons. Not to mention, rich white is one of my favorite dial colors. This hits every box. Whether you’re looking for boldness, elegance, a vintage feel, or you love the symbolism and how the piece reflects the culture from which it came, this watch undoubtedly is for you. 

Movement

Powered by a 9S86 36000 Hi-Beat caliber, you can expect traditional Grand Seiko automatic watch movement, functioning at 36000 beats per hour. It uses a special alloy for the mainspring and hairspring, allowing it to achieve a 55-hour power reserve while still maintaining 36000 beats. The accuracy measures at +5 -3 seconds per day, and it is a GMT watch, allowing for a simple time-zone adjustment whenever you please. 

Accuracy is something Grand Seiko fans never have to worry about. Even though the revolutionary Spring Drive doesn’t fuel this piece, you can pretty much guarantee that all Seiko watches are going to deliver the most accurate reading possible while moving in a smooth, eloquent manner. This piece is, by all means, no exception. The elegant black hands subtly tick across the dial, gracefully showing off their mechanical prowess in a way only Grand Seiko can emulate. 

Mechanical ingenuity is far more important than the aesthetic of the watch. Without a sound, mechanical base, the rest of the piece is deemed useless. Thankfully, Seiko has been giving us the best of both worlds for generations. The level of mechanical flawlessness combined with Seiko’s elegant craftsmanship in every piece shouldn’t be the norm. Yet, they continue to pride themselves on the quality of each piece, which seems to improve with each release. 

Bracelet

The stainless steel bracelet’s five-link design features a matte finish on the innermost and outermost links and a Zaratsu finish on the smaller, middle ones. It is a classic Grand Seiko bracelet with a mixture of brushed and polished surfaces. 

The clasp is a simple fold with pushers featuring the Grand Seiko engraving in bold print. A simple and comfortable clasp that snugly fits the wrist. There are no micro-adjustments to find the perfect fit, but the half-links and screw links may make adjustments a little more simpler. 

However, the basic fitting should accustom most wrists comfortably enough. I can’t see many problems arising unless you have a uniquely sized wrist. The 19mm lug width may prove difficult to find straps, but the drilled lugs offer an easier way to swap them out. 

The sleek, smooth, glistening silver comfortably blends with the whiteness of the dial. It’s a very subtle feel but one that gets its message across all the same. It encapsulates the feeling of a soft winter, with hardly any distracting flamboyant features that take away from the tranquil atmosphere set by the rest of the piece. 

Rooted in solemn spirituality, it fits that every aspect of the piece embodies a quiet place of worship. Pieces like this, which take the form of a less dramatic sense of beauty, have always been more eye-catching. Watches that stay quiet usually speak a lot louder to me than something more dramatic, which is why I am drawn to this piece. 

With the greyness of the smoothly polished stainless steel and the stark white of the dial come a foreboding, powerful sensation that everything beautiful mankind has created originates from the earth itself. 

Even places of worship are subject to this sensation, with the temple floors being covered in snow, causing us to step back and admire the planet’s beauty while holding ourselves accountable to preserve this beauty.

On the Wrist 

The dimensions make this an extremely wearable watch on a variety of wrists. With an adjustable strap, it fits wrists as small as 6 inches and as high as 7.5 inches, so there aren’t going to be many issues for most wearers. 

The domed sapphire crystal, however, makes this watch significantly thicker than you might expect. A little too thick to slide under cuffs, making it more of a sportier wear that can be worn on dressier occasions. 

Practical and legible, with a GMT feature that can easily adjust to fit any timezone, this piece can be worn daily and looks beautiful with anything. The smooth silver goes with any lighter shade of clothing, but it can also beautifully contrast with a darker shirt. 

This piece is one of the rare instances where it can fit just as comfortably in a casual environment as well as a dresser environment, which is why I think that this is the perfect watch for any occasion. If you were going to buy only one, then this would be my pick. Not to mention that this is one of my favorite designs Seiko has ever produced. 

The stoic symbolism combined with the dazzling subtle shade of grey causes it to stand out among other pieces of similar design. The chain links are crafted to perfection and fit comfortably, and despite the thickness, it is an extremely lightweight wear that makes me forget it’s on my wrist. 

I wholeheartedly believe that this watch offers everything you need in a Seiko piece. It takes themes from their previous designs and merges them to give you an authentic Grand Seiko experience. They truly never disappoint. Each masterpiece tells its own story, weaving its narrative through the links of the bracelet. I simply cannot recommend this watch enough. 

Pricing

You can find the Grand Seiko SBGJ271 from Grand Seiko authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. We only ship to the US and are authorized dealers, ensuring a 5-year warranty directly from Grand Seiko. A brand-new SBGJ271 costs can be picked up for $7,100. Pre-owned pieces usually range from 5-6k, depending on the condition of the watch. 

Conclusion 

What more is there to say? This piece is not only beautiful, but it tells an entire story while sitting on your wrist. Seiko blends their obsession with nature and culture together and gives us a beautiful synopsis of what it means to live on this planet. 

The winter is harsh, but there is beauty to be found in the cold. When snow falls, it elevates the things it graces, bringing beauty through subtlety. This watch does the same. Bringing a solemn feel that mirrors a Japanese winter, it’s in a league of its own as it quietly stuns its audience with its sleek, silvery-white beauty. 

Seiko reminds us that while they pride themselves in making the most beautiful pieces possible, the greatest beauty of all comes from nature. They have gotten everything that man has made from the stunning planet they live in. 

Taking inspiration from the seasons, the trees, the oceans, the forests. Every dazzling fragment of Japan has been incorporated into Grand Seiko pieces in one way or another over the years, and this piece is no exception. 

As Grand Seiko continues to evolve, fans should hold their hopes high. Seiko continues to prove itself as one of those companies that seem to hold onto their core principles through the test of time while also adapting to improve every new piece that they release.

I have yet to be disappointed and find it highly unlikely that they will ever falter on their mission to aim for perfect craftsmanship and poetic symbolism, causing each piece to take on its own identity and come alive on your wrist.

“It’s complicated.” The phrase suggests something that is hard to understand or explain. A “complicated” watch, however, is usually viewed as desirable and a source of purpose and pleasure by enthusiasts.

The primary function of a watch is to tell the current time in hours, minutes, and, usually, seconds. A “complication” is a watch function that provides additional information beyond those three measurements.

Complications are usually visual, conveying additional details through extra dial print, subdials, apertures, bezels that calculate elapsed time and speed of moving objects, or additional hands that indicate how much power is left in the watch’s mechanism, or even the current time on the other side of the world.

But complications can be pleasing to the ears as well. Acoustic complications include alarms that countdown or sound at a set time, “repeaters” that ping or chime every minute, quarter hour, and hour, enabling the wearer to tell the time by sound alone, and even “music boxes” that play tunes.

In this article, I describe a few of the most popular complications available today. After reading this, you may discover that a “complicated watch” can be a good thing and a nice pickup for your collection.

Date Complications

A simple date complication indicating the numerical calendar day is the most desired and useful for an everyday wear watch.

A self-changing date complication, first introduced in the 1945 Rolex Datejust, is usually accomplished with a date wheel inside the watch case that rotates to the next day automatically as the time passes 00:00 hours (midnight). 

There is an aperture or date window, most often located at the 3 o’clock position, but sometimes at 4:30 or 6:00 as well. The day of the week is sometimes added, either as an abbreviation alongside the date at 3:00 or at 12:00 using the full name.

In addition to apertures, some watches use an extra hand called a “pointer” to show the date. These usually have the Arabic numerals 1-31 located along the outer edge of the dial in an area called the “chapter ring” or in a smaller dial within the main dial (“subdial”).

Pointers are often used in perpetual calendar watches with very complex—and expensive—mechanisms that can advance the day, date, month, and year correctly, including leap years, until the year 2100 without resetting as long as the watch is kept running. An annual calendar watch tracks the same information but must be reset every year.

Chronograph Complications

Another popular complication is the chronograph. “Chronograph” is derived from the Greek language and means “time recording”. Chronographs track both the current time and the elapsed time of an event. Most modern chronographs have a start/stop pusher at 2 o’clock position and a reset pusher at 4 o’clock. 

A long timing seconds hand is usually used that extends to seconds indices at the dial’s edge. In addition, subdials can track current running seconds as well as elapsed timing hours, minutes, and even fractions of seconds.

There are several variations of chronographs that go beyond the basic “stopwatch” format. 

A tachymeter is a numerical scale on the bezel that allows the calculation of the speed of a moving object over a set distance in either mph or kph. A telemeter scale on the bezel or dial can estimate the distance from an event that is seen and heard (e.g. a lightning strike and ensuing thunder), while a pulsometer scale can compute heart rate in beats per minute. Sometimes, all three are combined in one chronograph.

In addition, there are chronographs with more complicated mechanisms that fine-tune the measurement of elapsed time. A “rattrapante” (French for “catch up”) is a “splits seconds” chronograph that uses two timing seconds hands to measure total elapsed time as well as “split” or lap times. A “flyback” chronograph allows the user to start and stop the timing seconds hand and reset to zero with a single press of a pusher.

GMT/World Time Complications

GMT and World Time complications enable the wearer to track the time in different timezones around the world. “GMT” stands for Greenwich Mean Time, the system that designates 24 global timezones with a reference “Zero Hour” linked with the longitudinal Prime Meridian, which runs through the Royal Observatory near London.

GMT watches are typically four-hand watches with a GMT hand that tracks a 24-hour scale on the bezel, which may be rotating or stationary. There are two basic types: traveler (aka “flyer”) and desk (aka “caller”). 

A traveler GMT has a jumping local hours hand, which can be set independently when arriving in a different timezone without interrupting the watch’s timekeeping. The GMT hand stays on the time back home.

In contrast, a desk GMT has a jumping GMT hand that can be set independently to a different timezone while the local time keeps running, making it ideal for someone staying put but needing to know the time at a different location. A rotating bezel can track a third timezone with both traveler and desk types.

A world time complication can show not just 2-3 timezones but any time across the world. A common characteristic of all world timers is a list of reference cities representing the 24 global timezones and a 24-hour scale. The city list is usually located on an outer chapter ring, which may be stationary or rotating or on a rotating bezel. 

The 24-hour scale is usually located on an inner chapter ring, which can be set and rotated through every city over the course of the day. Other world timers use pushers that move some combination of the reference cities, 24-hour scale, or local hours hand.

It all sounds a little confusing and, well, “complicated”, but in real life, everything works out fine once you figure out your model’s mechanism.

Moonphase Complications

Some form of “moonphase” clock has been in use since ancient times when tracking the lunar cycle yielded important information regarding planting, harvesting, hunting, and fishing.

These days, a moonphase watch complication uses a rotating disc depicting the sunlit moon’s phases over a 29.5-day period, which is seen through a decorative, cutout aperture on the front of the dial, sometimes round, but usually arc-like, similar to a half-moon. 

A moonphase complication is not particularly accurate—or useful—but it is stylish and adds nice touches of color and additional interest and motion to the watch face that make them popular among collectors.

Though often associated with expensive, high horology, moonphase complications are also available in more affordable entry-level mechanical watches and every price point in between.

Tourbillons

When it comes to timekeeping, gravity is not a friend. The small components of a mechanical watch are affected by gravitational forces, resulting in “positional errors”, which adversely affect accuracy.

A tourbillon (French for “whirlwind” which describes the mechanism’s swirling motion) is a complication that mitigates these errors, making it, in effect, an “anti-gravity” machine. 

Basically, the balance wheel, balance spring, and escapement, the intricate parts most susceptible to positional errors, are located inside a rotating cage that helps average out gravitational forces in a mostly stationary timepiece such as a pocket watch.

The tourbillon was created by renowned French watchmaker Abraham-Lewis Breguet in 1795 and patented in 1801. Since that time, the tourbillon has evolved from the single-axis model of Breguet to more complex ones that use multi-axes, combinations of tourbillons, “flying” tourbillons mounted so they appear freestanding, and even ultra-sophisticated “gyro” ones that drive perpetual calendar watches.

There is controversy as to whether or not tourbillons improve accuracy significantly in modern watches that are non-stationary and rotating with the motion of the wearer’s wrist. 

But no one denies the intricate beauty of these complications seen through open, skeletonized dials and display casebacks. They can mesmerize and hypnotize for hours and have your boss frowning in chagrin at the inverse relationship between your watch addiction and office productivity.

Since tourbillons are complex and difficult to manufacture, they tend to be very expensive and associated with high-end horology. However, improvements in manufacturing and technology enable some companies to offer tourbillon watches for lower prices.

Power Reserve Indicators

A power reserve indicator is a watch complication that shows how much potential energy remains in a mechanical watch’s mainspring. Think of it as your watch’s “fuel gauge”. 

If you don’t wear a mechanical or automatic watch every day, it’s useful to know how much is “left in the tank” before you strap it on again, especially since a more fully wound mainspring is associated with greater accuracy.

Power reserve indicators are most often seen on dials and may take the form of a hand moving along an arc-shaped scale or within a subdial. Other dial indicators include bar or linear indicators that use a +/- scale or fill up as reserves decrease and color-coded gauges that vary as power levels change. Some people prefer a less cluttered dial, so there are watches with power reserve indicators on the movement, which can be seen through a display caseback.

Like tourbillons, some dismiss power reserve indicators in modern watches with large power reserves and self-winding, automatic movements, believing they are a needless feature from the past. However, one person’s superfluous fluff is another person’s desirable design element. Like beauty, a watch complication is “in the eye of the beholder”.

Mechanical Alarms

We set most alarms these days with our cell phones and digital watches and clocks, so mechanical alarm complications are much less common and cherished than in years past. But as one who owns mechanical watches in part to push back against the creeping tide of digitization and form connections with both my watches and the past, I say, “So what?”

A mechanical alarm complication allows the user to set an alarm within a 12-hour period. The first mechanical alarm watch was created by Eterna around 1914.

 But arguably the most iconic was the 1950s era Vulcain Cricket with a separate barrel system for the alarm that emitted a cool chirping sound, hence the name, and was famously associated with U.S. presidents such as Dwight Eisenhower and Richard Nixon, among others.

There are several other modern watch companies that still offer fine references with mechanical alarm complications, including Tudor, Patek Philippe, Breguet, Jaeger-Lecoultre, and Oris, to name a few. Here’s a link to the Exquisite Timepieces website, which features some of these.

I personally own two watches with mechanical alarms, and not only do I find them handy to wake me up from a catnap, but they also encourage me to slow down and engage with my watch, thereby nurturing the wearer-watch “connection”.

The reward consists of soft, soothing, Zen-like “dings”. Sometimes, I set an alarm for no other reason than to breathe deep and calm my soul.

Minute Repeaters

From mechanical alarms, we transition to the most complex acoustic complication—the minute repeater.

A minute repeater allows the user to tell time through a series of different auditory tones produced by hammers striking gongs. They were originally designed for telling time in the dark and for the visually impaired. 

Not surprisingly, Abraham-Louis Breguet, father of the tourbillon, also invented the first ones in the mid-18^th century. Unlike church bell chimes or grandfather clocks, which strike every quarter hour and hour, minute repeaters chime to tell time to the exact minute.

This is accomplished using an independent chiming mechanism that can be switched on or off—so yes, you can “mute” it. The actual tones and sequencing can differ from brand to brand. 

To illustrate, Patek Philippe uses a lower tone for hours, a two-toned sequence for quarter hours, and a higher-pitched single tone for minutes. For example, to designate 7:47, the minute repeater would strike seven low tones, 3 two-toned sequences, and 2 high-pitched single tones.

There are repeater variations with other sequences and pitches for hours, quarters, half-quarters, 10 minutes, 5 minutes, and single minutes, as well as “dumb” repeaters that don’t chime audibly but instead vibrate.

Along with tourbillons, minute repeaters are premium mechanisms that, while certainly not absolutely necessary for modern times, are nonetheless venerable and sought-after complications. 

As such, they are also very expensive. However, some companies offer less complex hours-only repeaters that still give you that calming chime every 60 minutes at a more affordable price point.

Conclusion

While time-only watches can certainly be aesthetically clean and appealing, we only experience the full range of watchmaking artisanship and functionality when we consider the many complications available in modern timepieces. If “variety is the spice of life,” then watch complications are the cinnamon, cumin, and paprika of horology.

Still, be careful and go easy—a little bit of complication can go a long way.

Ask any watch collector or self-confessed timepiece enthusiast. We guarantee they’ll be more than happy to talk about mechanical watches, probably for hours, and explain to you just how innovative and breathtaking these timeless pieces are. 

Whether manually wound or powered by the movement of your wrist, mechanical watches have remained a symbol of craftsmanship and precision since their birth. Unlike quartz watches, which rely on a battery, mechanical watches utilize several intricate components to keep time.

So, just in case you’re new to the world of horology – that’s the fancy word for the art of watchmaking – and you don’t have an avid watch connoisseur in your life, let us guide you through all there is to know about mechanical watches including how they work, their history and how best to maintain then.

The Basics of a Mechanical Watch

Ok, so before we get into the nitty-gritty details of how a mechanical watch works, let’s first cover the basics. At the heart of any watch, there is something called a movement. This is the technology used to make the hands tick seamlessly around the dial so you can read the correct time. There are two key types of watch movements: quartz and mechanical.

Quartz watches are those powered by a small battery that needs replacing every couple of years. The battery relies on electricity and the properties of a quartz crystal, allowing quartz watches to be incredibly accurate and low maintenance. Mechanical watches, on the other hand, work completely differently. They don’t use batteries but instead rely on a series of tiny moving parts to keep time.

There are two types of mechanical movements: manual winding and automatic. Manual winding watches need to be wound by hand. You turn the crown (the little knob on the side of the watch), and this winds a component called the mainspring. As the mainspring unwinds, it releases stored energy that powers the movement, keeping the watch ticking. 

Automatic watches work similarly, except they have a small, semi-circular weight inside called a rotor, which winds the mainspring automatically as you wear the watch. The natural motion of your wrist makes the rotor spin, keeping the watch wound without you needing to do anything. If you wear it daily, it’ll keep ticking forever.

It’s these tiny, intricate parts that make a mechanical movement truly special. As you’ve probably realized, the mainspring is one of the most important components, as it’s this that needs winding to power the watch. 

It works by winding up and storing the energy needed to fuel the other components. This energy is then transmitted through the gear train, an escapement and a balance wheel, all of which work together to ensure the watch runs steadily and accurately.

History of Mechanical Watches

Mechanical watches date back centuries, with some of the first recorded mechanical clocks emerging from Europe during the late 13th century. But these were large tower clocks and not the wristwatches we know today. 

It wasn’t until the 16th century that the components of mechanical movements were made small enough to fit into portable, wearable watches. Some of the earliest mechanical watches were powered by a mechanism called the Verge escapement, an innovation that helped watches become more compact and wearable.

The first true mechanical watch was developed by Peter Henlein, a German locksmith, around 1510. His invention, often credited as the first portable timepiece, was a spring-powered pocket watch. However, it was far from accurate— as you’d expect for the world’s first-ever attempt. Instead, these early watches were mostly decorative, meant to showcase wealth rather than tell precise time.

Accuracy in mechanical watches became a major focus in the 18th century. John Harrison, an English carpenter and clockmaker, invented the marine chronometer, which revolutionized timekeeping as we know it. 

His device allowed sailors to determine longitude at sea, a breakthrough in navigation. This leap in precision marked the beginning of mechanical watches being valued not just for their beauty but for their accuracy.

As time went on, mechanical watch movements continued to evolve. The COSC certification (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) was introduced to set a high standard for accuracy in Swiss watches. 

To receive COSC certification, a mechanical watch must meet strict criteria, such as keeping time within -4 to +6 seconds per day, a mark of precision that separates ordinary watches from exceptional ones. Having a COSC-certified watch means you have the confidence your fancy wristwatch has passed several rigorous tests to prove its timekeeping abilities.

Today, mechanical watchmaking has reached entirely new heights with innovations like the Zenith El Primero. Launched in 1969, this has become famed for being the world’s first automatic chronograph movement. It not only automated the winding process but also boasted a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, making it one of the most precise mechanical movements of its time. 

The Grand Seiko Spring Drive is another notable innovation. This engineering marvel has somehow combined the mainspring of a mechanical movement with the electronic regulator of a quartz one. This hybrid technology allows for a completely smooth seconds hand and near-perfect precision.

Operating a Mechanical Movement

Until you’ve seen one up close, it’s difficult to explain just how incredible and innovative mechanical watch movements are. But we’ll try our best! 

These miniature marvels of engineering are powered by hundreds of tiny parts that all work together to keep the time showing on the dial accurate. Let’s break down the key parts of a mechanical watch and see how they work together to create a functioning timepiece.

The Mainspring

Many will agree that the mainspring is the heart of a mechanical watch. It’s a long, thin strip of metal wound tightly into a coil, and its job is to store energy. In a manual winding watch, you wind the watch by turning the crown, which tightens the mainspring. In an automatic watch, the winding happens naturally as you move your wrist, thanks to a rotor inside the watch that spins and winds the spring. 

As the mainspring unwinds, it releases the stored energy. The more tightly it’s wound, the more energy it stores, and the longer the watch can run. A fully wound mainspring can typically power a watch for about 40 hours, though some high-end watches offer much longer power reserves. The energy released by the mainspring powers the entire movement. 

However, it doesn’t release all the energy at once, but it does so slowly, over time. The process of controlling this energy flow is where the rest of the watch’s components come into play.

The Gear Train

Once the mainspring begins to release energy, it sends it through the gear train, a series of small gears that transmit the energy throughout the movement. These gears reduce the speed of the energy unwinding from the mainspring so that the hands on the watch move at the correct speed. 

At the start of the gear train, energy is moving very fast, but by the time it reaches the hands of the watch, it has been slowed down enough to turn the second, minute, and hour hands at their proper speeds. The gear train ensures that one complete rotation of the minute hand happens every 60 minutes and one rotation of the hour hand happens every 12 hours.

The Escapement

The escapement is another super important component of a mechanical watch because it controls the release of energy from the mainspring. Without it, the mainspring would unwind too quickly, and the watch would lose all its energy in seconds. 

The escapement acts almost like a gatekeeper, releasing tiny amounts of energy in controlled intervals. This gives the watch its steady “tick-tock” rhythm. It also works in conjunction with the balance wheel (which we’ll get to next) to regulate the speed at which the gears turn and the hands move.

In most mechanical watches, the escapement consists of two main parts: the escape wheel and the pallet fork. The escape wheel is connected to the gear train, and the pallet fork alternately locks and unlocks it, allowing the wheel to move forward one step at a time. 

Each time the escape wheel moves, a tiny burst of energy is sent to the rest of the movement, allowing the gears to turn in perfect time.

The Balance Wheel

Working closely with the escapement is the balance wheel, which is like the watch’s pendulum. The balance wheel oscillates back and forth at a constant rate, and this regular motion helps the escapement release energy in evenly spaced intervals. Attached to the balance wheel is a tiny, coiled spring called the hairspring or balance spring. 

As the balance wheel swings in one direction, the hairspring tightens. Then, it loosens, pushing the balance wheel back in the opposite direction. This process repeats over and over, giving the watch its rhythm. 

The oscillations of the balance wheel, typically 18,000 to 36,000 beats per hour, determine how quickly the escapement can unlock and release energy. The faster the balance wheel oscillates, the more precise the watch will be.

The Dial Train and Hands

The dial train is a series of gears that takes the controlled energy from the escapement and balance wheel and uses it to drive the hands of the watch. It reduces the speed of the gear train so that the second, minute, and hour hands move at their respective speeds. 

For example, the second hand completes one full rotation every 60 seconds, the minute hand completes one rotation every 60 minutes, and the hour hand completes one rotation every 12 hours. The dial train ensures that these rotations happen precisely and smoothly.

The Rotor (for Automatic Watches)

For automatic watches, there’s an additional component called the rotor. This is a semi-circular weight that spins as you move your wrist, winding the mainspring in the process. The rotor pivots around a central axis, and when it spins, it transfers energy to the mainspring, keeping the watch wound without the need for manual winding. 

The beauty of the rotor is that it uses the natural movement of your body to keep the watch running. If you wear your watch regularly, it will stay wound without you ever having to manually wind it.

The Crown

The crown is the small knob on the side of the watch that you use to wind it manually. In most watches, you can pull the crown out to adjust the time or push it in to wind the mainspring. 

Automatic watches can also be wound manually if the rotor hasn’t wound enough through natural movement. The crown is your main point of interaction with the mechanical movement, and it plays a crucial role in keeping the watch running smoothly.

Mechanical Watch Maintenance Tips

As is the case with any watch, mechanical watches require some love and care to keep them ticking for years. One of the most important and possibly obvious tips we can give you is to keep your mechanical watch wound. 

For many watches, make sure to wind the crown gently once per day, preferably at the same time each day. If you have an automatic watch but you don’t wear it daily, you might want to consider getting a watch winder to keep it running.

Another key tip is to avoid exposure to magnets, as they can affect the watch’s accuracy. Keep your mechanical watch away from electronic devices like smartphones, speakers, and laptops, which emit magnetic fields, as these can mess with those intricate components inside and ultimately ruin the precision and functionality of your timepiece. 

Similarly, we also suggest keeping your watch clean. Wiping it with a soft, dry cloth every now and then will help to prevent any dust, dirt, or sweat from getting into the movement. This will also help keep your watch looking brand new.

Depending on the water resistant rating of your mechanical watch, try to avoid submerging it in water. And even if your watch is water resistant, check the seals periodically. This can also be done when you service your watch, which should be actioned by a professional every 3 to 5 years. 

Over time, the oils inside the movement can dry out, and the tiny gears can wear down, so the regular maintenance provided by a watch service ensures your watch keeps performing at its best.

Conclusion

Hopefully, you can now see why so many of us watch nerds and why we love the beauty and technology of mechanical watches. These little works of art require no battery, but just a selection of finely tuned gears, springs, and wheels to tell the time. 

Whether manually wound or automatic, mechanical watches represent centuries of horological innovation. Sure, they’re not as accurate as quartz watches, but those battery-operated movements lack the artistry, engineering, and history that comes with a true mechanical timepiece.