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The Japanese are proud people who put that pride into everything they make. From cars to electronics, products from the Land of the Rising Sun tend to be reliable, long-lasting, and beautiful. 

This extends to watches as well, and Grand Seiko is at the head of the class. The brand has a long history of excellence in the art and science of horology. Indeed, any true watch aficionado should have a Grand Seiko or two in their collection.

Over the last several years, the brand has been releasing watches with smaller cases that are in line with the classics of the past. There are many watch lovers who seek out cases smaller than 40 mm. 

The SBGY collection has several of these heritage-inspired watches, and one of the most beautiful is the Grand Seiko SBGY013 Omiwatari. Let’s dive in and get a good look at what makes this timepiece so special. 

History

Grand Seiko has been making quality timepieces for more than 140 years. New collections, models, and innovations are always hitting the market as the brand strives to remain at the top of its game. 

In 2020, the SBGY005, the first watch in the collection, was given a limited release of 22 pieces. Grand Seiko followed up with the SBGY007 in 2021, and 2022 saw the introduction of the SBGY013. This is truly among the nicest in not only this collection but also all of the Grand Seiko catalog. 

A dressy watch with a bit of sporty flair, there is a lot to like about the Omiwatari.

Case

The stainless steel case features Grand Seiko’s trademark brushed and Zaratsu-polished surfaces that give it great depth as well as a gorgeous shine. The dimensions are on the smaller side, giving it a classic look. 

The 38.5 mm diameter, coupled with the 43.7 mm lug-to-lug, make it suitable for a wide range of wrist sizes. I tend to prefer cases in the 40-42 mm range on my 7.25-inch wrist, but the SBGY013 suits me well, especially when I want to dress things up a bit. If you are a bigger person with a wrist approaching 8 inches, you will likely find it a bit small.

The Omiwatari is thin enough to easily fit under a shirt sleeve at 10.2 mm. Even the lug width is smaller than the average 19 mm, which adds to the classy look. The crown sits at 3 o’clock and is large enough to make setting and winding easy but still small enough not to throw off the symmetry. The lack of crown guards adds to the clean line of the case.

The crystal is dual-curved scratch-resistant sapphire, and the anti-reflective coating ensures you can easily read the dial in any lighting conditions. The case back is a screw-down and exhibition. A sapphire crystal with the same anti-reflective coating lets you see the movement and show it to your horological friends. 

The water resistance is 30 meters, which will protect the watch in the rain but do not swim in it. 

Although it’s generally the dial that gets most of the focus, you may find yourself checking out the case from time to time. 

Dial

On to the dial, the face of a watch. Grand Seiko does everything well, but their dials take it up a few levels, and the SBGY013 is one of the very best. 

Nature takes a prime position in Japanese culture, and Grand Seiko tends to design its dials as a tribute to natural phenomena. 

Located near Grand Seiko’s works is the beautiful Lake Suwa. This pristine body of water freezes up in the winter, and a ridge of ice develops across the width of the lake. Legend has it the ridge is created by an ice goddess as she walks across the lake. The trail is called the “Omiwatari”, hence the name of this model.

The color is not just an ordinary white but rather a silvery white. When the light hits the dial, you see the same kind of sparkles visible on fresh snow. The texture gives the dial the look of a frozen pond covered by ice ridges. It’s a spectacular design, unlike any other dial I’ve ever seen. 

A dial this beautiful needs the right complementary components. No problem there. The stainless steel baton indices taper toward the center, and there is a double baton at 12 o’clock. As with all of Grand Seiko’s indices, they are precision cut and polished for a shine that complements both the case and the dial. 

The hands are polished stainless steel and narrow to a long point with a shorter point at the back end. The needle seconds hand is tempered blue steel and stands out against the dial as it completes each silky smooth sweep around the dial. 

The Grand Seiko logo is applied in stainless steel at 12 o’clock with the name in black underneath. The words Spring Drive sit at six. On the outer edge of the dial are the simple black ticks of the minute track. In addition to being very pleasant to look at, the dial is easy to read, as it should be on a dress watch. 

Movement

The watch is powered by yet another of Grand Seiko’s specialties. The in-house hand-wound caliber 9R31 Spring Drive 30-jewel movement is incredibly accurate at +/- 15 seconds per month. 

The dual spring barrel and the combination of mechanical and electronic quartz technology keep the seconds hand smoothly sweeping and provide a very generous 72-hour power reserve. 

Need to know how much power you have left and can’t find it on the dial? Have no fear. There is a power reserve indicator on the back of the movement, and thanks to the exhibition case back, you can clearly see it. 

The indicator and the Grand Seiko logo and name are displayed in blue, which stands out nicely against the stainless movement. Attention to detail is yet another Grand Seiko trademark. You won’t have to wind the watch too often but it’s so beautiful, you may want to.

Straps

The SBGY013 comes with a unique nine-link stainless steel bracelet. The links are alternately brushed and polished for a stunning look that fully complements the case. The bracelet closes with a three-fold clasp and push-button release. It’s secure yet comfortable and wraps nicely around the wrist.

There are no micro adjusters, but the links are only 0.7 mm long, so getting a good fit should not be difficult. The bracelet is elegant enough to be worn with a suit but still has enough sportiness to work with more casual attire. 

The drilled lugs make it easy to swap the bracelet out for a strap if you want to make it dressier. A leather or alligator strap looks great on the SBGY013, so you have options.

On-Wrist Experience

So, does this watch wear as good as it looks? With the smaller, thin case, curved lugs, and flexible bracelet, it sits very nicely on the wrist. It’s fairly light and very comfortable. It easily slides under a shirt cuff, and you might forget you are wearing it if not for the temptation to periodically look at this masterpiece.

As to how to style it, the possibilities are nearly endless. White is the ultimate neutral color, and you can wear this dial with suits, jackets, and shirts of any hue. It pairs well with polos, oxfords, or dress shirts with or without ties. 

Some guys will only wear a leather strap with a suit, but I think a nice bracelet looks just as good. Hell, I wear divers with suits, and the SBGY013 is more than dressy enough to hold up with your two or three-piece suits.

The simplicity of the dial makes it easy to read the time at a glance so as not to take your attention away from work or the event you are attending. I find myself sneaking extra peeks. It’s way too nice not to. 

Price & Availability

If you are considering purchasing the incredible SBGY013 Omiwatari, you can get one at a Grand Seiko boutique or from their website. It retails for $9,000. You get a lot for your money and a watch this nice for under 10 grand is a steal.

You can also get an SBGY013 from an authorized dealer, such as Exquisite Timepieces. You can stop by our Naples, FL, brick-and-mortar store to try one on or pick one up on our website. We offer free domestic shipping, and as an AD, we give you the Grand Seiko 5-year warranty. Our friendly and knowledgeable sales staff is ready to assist you in person or online. 

If you would like to save some money by going the preowned route, you can get a used SBGY013 for between $6,600 and $7,500. 

Conclusion

It can be hard to choose among the many watches available in the horological world. And that’s just the Grand Seiko catalog. If you are looking for a classy dress watch that’s reliable, accurate, stunningly beautiful, and a little sporty, you owe it to yourself to check out the Grand Seiko SBGY013 Omiwatari. It was inspired by a goddess. It’s simply heavenly. 

Crowned with the name Boshū, the Grand Seiko SBGW287 is a dress watch that’s meant to stand out. Boshū refers to the seasonal transition to winter, which is why the watch comes in an autumn burgundy color.

Of course, the stainless steel accents of the case and dial offer an excellent contrast. The SBGW287 does a great job of finding balance in its bold colorway. It’s included as a part of Grand Seiko’s Elegance collection, which is more than fitting, in my opinion.

Donning a crocodile leather band, this watch is designed for individuals with unique tastes. In this Grand Seiko SBGW287 review, you’ll get a breakdown of the finite details that make this timepiece whole.

A Historical Significance to the SBGW287

Although the SBGW287 has only been on the market for about two years, it’s part of a much larger plan. You’ll find that it’s a part of the Grand Seiko Elegance collection, but it’s also a part of the brand’s “Flow of Seasons” lineup.

This includes numerous watches that embody the qualities of Japan’s 24 seasonal divisions, also referred to as “sekki.” The Flow of Seasons lineup of GS watches was started back in 2019 and has expanded since, with the SBGW287 being a part of it.

More specifically, the SBGW287 carries the theme of autumn’s transition to winter, which is referred to as Boshū. Part of what has always driven my interest in Grand Seiko designs is their inspiration, which is taken from natural elements.

Unlike many popular models from Grand Seiko, the SBGW287 isn’t a reissue of an older design. On another note, this watch was released alongside the SBGW281. I like its similar features, but I appreciate the dark and bold look of the SBGW287 much better.

You can also find similarities between SBGW283 and SBGW285. While each of these watches comes with plenty of unique identity, it isn’t hard to see the commonalities. The Flow of Seasons lineup started out focusing on the 62GS and GMT watch styles but offers much more variety today. 

With a closer look, I’m able to appreciate the historical detail in this watch, as it’s clearly an important focal point for Grand Seiko. Even if this watch is placed among other similar designs, I feel it’s one that’ll draw the eyes a bit more than others.

Simple and Dynamic Case

Featuring the well-known Zaratsu polish seen in many Grand Seiko timepieces, the SBGW287 case is reflective and equally neutral. I say this due to the overall sleek look of the case, but it’s also important to highlight the actual dimensions.

The case of the SBGW287 comes with a 37.3mm diameter and a 44.3mm lug-to-lug length. I can see how a lot of personal preference would weigh into the thickness, which is 11.7mm. Whereas someone might feel that it’s a bit too thick, I think it offers the perfect amount of balance.

Although the case comes with a reflective nature, it’s distortion-free, which helps it look seamless and uniform to the eye. One detail I’m always excited about is the exhibition case back. I love seeing the movement go to work without missing a single step. What amazes me most about viewing the movement is that it’s something that can be unwaveringly consistent.

The box-shaped sapphire crystal is not only scratch-resistant but also mimics details related to the vintage look of acrylic crystals. I will admit the crown seems a bit large relative to other aspects of the case design. This wouldn’t be a deal breaker for me, but I can’t ignore the fact that it seems a bit too large from certain angles.

On the other hand, having a larger crown makes manual adjustments easier for any wearer. I also appreciate their inclusion of a slipping attachment to prevent overwinding. This is an important detail to help protect the main spring and mitigate wear and tear. 

I also like that the integrated bezel doesn’t distract too much from the dial. An important feature nonetheless, the bezel’s placement and overall design was a smart move, in my opinion.

You get the benefit of the traditional dress watch style and bold yet minimal design choices for a pretty cohesive look. I can see how the color of this watch might be a bit too much for some, but I feel it’s a worthy topic of conversation, to say the least.

Difference in the Dial

With just a quick look, the dial may not seem like much to the untrained eye. It’s true that it does offer simplicity, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t intricate. I find looking at it from an angle does the dial the most justice.

No one would argue with the bold and beautiful color of the dial, but it’s important to note why it’s much more than that. On top of its symbolism of changing seasons, it offers an organic texture that you wish you could feel with your fingertips.

Exhibiting a slightly granulated look, the dial is another great example of Grand Seiko’s attention to detail. I’m also a fan of their choice in deep red, as they could’ve gone with many other color hues when it comes to autumn transitions. Not only is this shade of red one of the most beautiful, but it’s a color you can find during autumn in Japan and many other parts of the world.

With sleek diamond-cut hands and hour markers, you get a thin, highly polished look that doesn’t block out too much of the red. Legibility is never a problem, as the slightest reflection can help illuminate the dial.

Some might be dissatisfied with the lack of a date window or reserve indicator, but I’m a huge fan of this choice. I like to see as much of the dial as possible, and not having those additional features makes it look much more open.

You do get the expected inclusion of the GS logo at the top of the dial, but they made sure it was seamless to its surroundings. I’m usually not a fan when the GS logo comes in yellow gold, so I’m really glad they made the matching choice in color and polish.

The dial, from an overall standpoint, comes with a very sharp look, from the burgundy color to the sharp contrast in the hands and indices. There’s no minute track on this dial, but once again, it’s a smart move, as that would’ve just been an added distraction. Regardless of the bold color in the SBGW287, it’s a deeper red than you might expect and blends well with many fall outfits and aesthetics.

The Trustworthy Mechanical Movement

Including a Grand Seiko Caliber 9S64 mechanical movement, which features a surprisingly smooth tick. With precision and long-term reliability at the forefront, this is a movement that shouldn’t be compared. It stands on its own in several ways, and I appreciate the many independent qualities that are easy to love.

Featuring a standard 72-hour power reserve, the movement guarantees consistent accuracy and is perfect for everyday use. I’d like to highlight that a prominent component of this accuracy stems from its 28,800 beats per hour. In short, the movement isn’t missing a single step, including a mean daily rate of +5 to -3 seconds.

This isn’t a significant difference, but normal usage accuracy ranges from +10 to -1 seconds per day. You may not see every detail of the movement, but several of its 24 jewels are bound to be visible in the case back.

I’m always interested in the inner workings of different movements. The gear train bridge helps to enhance stability and offers a bit of design appeal to the exhibition case back. For those who don’t know, it’s Grand Seiko’s proprietary SPRON alloys that promise a stable accuracy rate and 72-hour power reserve.

I know there are many types of movements included with Grand Seiko watches, but there’s plenty to appreciate about each one. On the surface, the 9S64 movement may seem similar to many others, but it’s always the fine details that matter.

Part of what really sold me about the SBGW287 is its open case back, as I love to be able to view the movement any time I want. I feel it provides a much deeper appreciation for the consistent functionality seen on the surface of the dial.

Does the Strap Hold Up?

Including a matching burgundy color, I believe the crocodile leather strap on the SBGW287 is one of the biggest dividing factors here. I would say most people are used to the polished look of stainless steel or titanium with Grand Seiko. There are many reasons people don’t like leather straps, and I can see how that might be a bit of a turn-off here.

It isn’t a deal breaker for me, as I actually really appreciate the feel of leather straps. Nevertheless, crocodile leather comes with a unique look, and it definitely contrasts with the sleek design of the case.

Aside from that, it does help deliver a uniform look to the watch, which is always important. Leather can be somewhat stiff out of the box, but it doesn’t take long to break in the strap on this watch. You’d be surprised, but with the right fit, it can feel a lot more snug than expected.

The strap on the SBGW287 is 19mm in width, making it a suitable fit for most wrist sizes. You’ll also notice a slight shine to the finish of the strap. I find that this adds to the uniformity of the watch, as there isn’t a single dull detail, no matter which angle you view it from.

Even though I haven’t seen this myself, I’m confident a stainless steel or titanium strap on this watch case would be an outstanding choice. I’m never against swapping out a strap, but I’d prefer to stick with how the watch comes. 

While there aren’t any additional straps included with the SBGW287, the standard lug width makes it a viable choice for many people. My own preferences definitely lean toward a brushed titanium look, but the bold decisions in the SBGW287 make for a nice alternative in my collection.

The On-Wrist Experience

A leading factor in what makes this a great daily wear is the comfort of the crocodile leather. Without this, I’d probably keep it in a consistent rotation. Although I prefer a titanium strap, they aren’t something I can wear every single day.

This is a clear personal preference but an important note for any wearer to consider. While the leather makes the watch quite comfortable, you can’t ignore the overall boldness of its aesthetic. I can’t lie; the deep burgundy color isn’t something that works with every outfit. However, I’d still say this watch should be kept in more professional settings. From my standpoint, it just doesn’t look its best with casual outfits.

I do have skinnier wrists, but the dimensions of the case and strap make it more than suitable for mid-range wrist sizes. Of course, the leather strap offers multiple adjustment points, but this does come with a limit.

You could get professional adjustments for a leather strap, but this isn’t always the best choice unless you’re quite sure about your measurements. While I don’t find the watch to be overly flashy, I can see how someone else might think so. A bold color choice like burgundy isn’t for everyone, as it takes a particular approach to blend it with certain outfits.

As always, personal preferences influence how you wear a watch quite a bit, but this isn’t Grand Seiko’s most subtle design. If you like the color and descriptive feel of the SBGW287, it never hurts to consider finding one for yourself.

Pricing and Availability

Thankfully, you won’t have a hard time finding a Grand Seiko SBGW287. Widely available across the world, that doesn’t change the fact that you should choose a reputable retailer. You’re bound to have a few questions about your first wear, and you want a retailer that can get into the details with you.

One of your best bets in retailers for the SBGW287 would be Exquisite Timepieces. Their combination of industry and hands-on experience ensures you know exactly what you’re wearing.

Not to mention matching price points that won’t gouge you with markups. For what it’s worth, the Grand Seiko SBGW287 can be found retailing at $4,800, making it a great entry-level high-end watch to consider. This is a pretty fair price for a Grand Seiko, which means pre-owned would be even more affordable.

A decent pre-owned SBGW287 can be anywhere from $3,800 to $4,500 if it’s in respectable condition. Regardless of where you live, make sure to do your homework on retailers that’ll guide you in the right direction.

The Bottom Line

Grand Seiko is a name most people know, even if they aren’t necessarily a watch enthusiast. There’s a lot to be said about the brand, but their reputation is something that’s well understood in the details of their watchmaking.

The SBGW287 is among others in the Seasons lineup, but it makes a bold statement that helps it stand out from the rest. If you’re looking for an affordable, entry-level Grand Seiko that’s rich in color, the SBGW287 isn’t a bad addition to your collection.

Many horology enthusiasts and collectors appreciate the aesthetic appeal of a pristine timepiece. A fine polished watch can elevate a piece’s look, making the elegant stainless steel shimmer as it sits on your wrist. Polishing can restore a watch to its former glory, removing scratches and blemishes that develop over time. This can lead to an increase in resale value, as well as enhance the visual appeal. 

Like everything, however, polishing has drawbacks. In some instances, polishing can significantly alter a watch’s original design features, such as bevels and edges, potentially erasing iconic designs or historical significance engraved on the piece. Over-polishing can also thin the case, weakening the structural integrity and, in some cases, diminishing the value.  

Understanding the pros and cons of watch polishing helps collectors make educated decisions about their precious pieces. It also helps them balance the desire for a flawless aesthetic with the preservation of the watch’s original design.  

Why is Watch Polishing Important?

An essential part of watch maintenance is ensuring that your watch is in the most pristine condition possible. You’ve invested a lot of money into your piece, and part of that investment requires you to maintain its appearance and functionality. Polishing restores the watch’s original luster and shine, enhancing its overall appearance. This is particularly important for luxury watches, where the visual appeal can make all the difference in desirability and value.

Take a sunburst dial, for example. Its reflective nature means that even the most minor scratches or imperfections can be quite noticeable. Because the finish is designed to reflect light, any blemish can disrupt the smooth pattern of the dial’s surface, but polishing these dials helps restore them to the original vision the watchmaker had when they designed the piece. 

A guilloche dial’s complex design can benefit greatly from regular polishing as well. 

Deep scratches can compromise the intricate design, so it’s necessary to help maintain the detail that the guilloche is known for. Otherwise, the significance and value are depleted, and the guilloche dial loses its flare. 

Why you should polish your watch 

Depending on who you ask, polishing could prove to be the most valuable benefit to your timepiece. Some enthusiasts may insist upon a pristine-looking, top-of-the-line, well-polished watch, while someone else may prefer something a little more old school. Regardless of how you feel, there are some objective benefits from having a well-polished watch. 

The most obvious benefit is that polishing restores shine and erases blemishes that may have built up over time. If you wear your most prized timepiece every day, it’s guaranteed that, eventually, it will start to look worn and dull. A fresh polish can erase any sense of wear and tear and restore your piece to its former glory. 

A well-polished watch can also hold its value for a longer period of time. An expensive timepiece could be a long-term investment. If you plan to trade or sell your watch in the future, you’ll want to make sure it’s in pristine condition so you can charge the most money possible. 

Corrosion is one of the most common ways watches can deteriorate. The build-up of dirt and grime can completely diminish the look and value of your piece. Polishing can completely remove the harmful effects of corrosion, ensuring that your watch stays in its healthiest condition. 

Good polishing can also improve the clarity and legibility of the dial. With constant use, your piece’s dial becomes harder to read over time. Dirt builds up and smudges the crystal, and before you know it, the key function of the watch is deemed illegible. Polishing can remove dirt from the glass face of the dial, returning full legibility to your piece so that you can go about your day-to-day life always knowing the time. 

And finally, a well-polished piece perhaps serves the greatest purpose of all: personal satisfaction. What’s the point of investing in a watch you’re disappointed with every time you look at your wrist? Polishing can restore the aesthetic you originally fell in love with so that you feel pride whenever you look down and gaze at your beautiful piece. 

Why you should not polish your watch

While extremely beneficial to the watch’s overall aesthetics, polishing does come with its fair share of risks. Improper polishing techniques can scratch or damage the watch’s surface, particularly for delicate materials like acrylic or certain finishes. 

There’s also the risk of the watch losing its value. For vintage or collector watches, polishing can remove the original patina, which some collectors hold to an extremely high value. There’s also the risk of the polishing completely erasing a historical mark or engraving embedded within the piece, taking away the historical significance it may have previously held. 

The threat of overpolishing is ever-present as frequent polishing risks thinning the metal on cases and bracelets, leading to structural issues over time. The loss of aesthetics is one thing, but the damage to the watch itself is a much more severe risk that enthusiasts should be mindful of.

Warranty concerns pose a threat as well. Some manufacturers may void warranties if a watch is polished improperly, as it can affect the watch’s integrity and diminish its overall value. So, if you ever intend to resale or refund your piece, the number one priority is to ensure there is no damage or blemishes from improper polishing that could deter potential buyers. 

Another popular reason to avoid polishing your watch is simply personal preference. Some enthusiasts prefer a watch’s character as it ages, preferring a more worn look rather than a polished finish. 

There’s objectively no wrong choice when it comes to whether or not you want your watch to be polished. It all depends on outliers and personal preferences. The only thing you must be sure of is that you are getting your watch polished by somebody who knows what they are doing. 

Should you polish your watch yourself? 

If you have an experienced hand, polishing your watch yourself can have tremendous advantages and can be extremely convenient. 

The first clear advantage is affordability. DIY polishing saves you money compared to professional services. It also ensures that you can polish in your own time, basing your services completely on your own schedule. 

As with any DIY project, it can be a rewarding experience to learn about the intricacy of your watch and how to care for it. Just be sure that you have all the proper tools and that you know enough not to completely destroy the watch. Developing your skill through a DIY polishing project can be very satisfying when you successfully restore your watch’s shine and finally understand how to properly unlock the full potential of your piece. 

There are some drawbacks to DIY polishing as well, the obvious being the risk of damage. Scratching and damaging the watch becomes very easy without the proper tools and technique. Only pursue a DIY project if you have a careful hand and are willing to take the time to learn the proper methods. 

Of course, with your lack of expertise, professionals may prove to be the more efficient route. They have the capabilities and the experience to handle all sorts of pieces and the proper tools to safely polish your watch. You may not be privy to everything needed to properly restore your piece, but professionals know exactly what they are dealing with the minute you bring it in. 

As mentioned before, over-polishing is one of the most harmful things that can happen to your piece, and it’s a lot easier to over-polish than you might think. Let’s assume you know the tools you need as well as the proper techniques, but how do you know when to stop? You could end up doing everything right, but your watch still winds up in a worse condition than when you started because you didn’t know when to stop polishing. This problem obviously can be fixed by going to a professional, but—as with everything—you can fix it yourself if you take the time to learn. 

The primary issue is time. Sure, if you spend hours researching and practicing, you can mimic what a professional does relatively well, but the simple question is: is it worth it? Some of you may want to simply enjoy your piece and quit worrying whether or not it’s at risk of being damaged. In that case, a professional is the way to go. 

At the same time, some of you may be committed to learning every step and crave the satisfaction of gradually seeing your watch returned to its previous elegance. The only thing I advise is to be careful. There is really no wrong choice here, as long as you are actually committed to learning and are willing to put in the hours to learn the skill yourself. 

Conclusion

The decision to polish your watch isn’t as much of an objective yes or no as it is on personal preferences and outlying situations. It ultimately depends on the level of importance you place on your individual piece. Does it need polishing? If it does, is it worth learning by yourself? Would the cost of polishing be worth it? You can only answer these questions. 

Some factors that can sway your decision-making are understanding the watch’s material, its historical significance, and the individual priorities in watch care. Before you make your decision, be sure you have a clear understanding of the improvements that can be made should you polish it, the disadvantages and risks that could arise, and above all, learn everything there is to know about your own watch and let that govern your decision-making process. 

By balancing all this information, you should come to a clear choice on whether or not you should pursue the avenue of watch polishing. The best advice that I can give is the simple fact that what works for someone else may not work for you. If anyone tells you that there is an objective answer to this question, they are plain wrong. Just do the research and take the time to learn, and the decision will become clear.

When you go for an interview, making a good first impression is paramount. Match those shoes with your belt, and, for goodness sake, pick a tasteful tie! Whether you get the job or not, that initial outfit matters. It needs to tell the workplace that you take pride in your appearance and that the job really matters to you. Your interview attire will speak for you, a little like how the dial of a watch gives you an initial glimpse into the manufacturer, the style, and the purpose of the timepiece.

Styles of Hands and Their Importance

The hands on a watch play a huge role in providing a window to the soul of the watch and the message behind it. And the vast array of styles you’re likely to stumble upon when exploring this avenue sure does make timekeeping more diverse and interesting!

Essentially, all watch hands have the same job. They should be able to point to the hours, minutes, and (sometimes) the seconds clearly on display and should convey the essence of that timepiece, both in style and character. 

In this guide to 11 of the most popular dial hands, we’ll look at the secrets behind each design and which brands are most recognized for a specific style. Let’s kick things off with the most common of all. 

Baton Hands

When I think of the classic baton hand, it automatically conjures images of iconic sports watches of the 1970s. That’s not to say that watchmakers aren’t using baton hands in luxury watches today (they certainly are!). But many brands adopted the baton hand when creating the sports-luxe watch, including those like the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Rolex Day-Date – both grail watches, by the way! Even the Genta-designed Royal Oak promoted the baton handset. 

Could we accuse Gerald Genta of being rather unadventurous when we look at his baton-bearing accomplishments? Maybe. But you could also say the batons were a complete stroke of genius. They looked unapologetically simple on the dial and allowed for the polygonal machine-like features of his greatest sports watch to truly shine. 

Baton hands are characterized by their elongated, rectangular profile, which is often featured in dress watches. I happen to really like the baton hand design. It’s not trying to be anything it isn’t. It’s a no-frills type of hand that will make itself at home in any style of watch, be it chronographs, pilot’s watches, or GMTs. 

Sometimes, the hands are flat; sometimes, they are bluntly rounded at the tip. Either way, I think they look great on utilitarian tool watches like the Bell & Ross BR 05 – a watch that is instantly recognizable for its famous circle-within-a-square profile.

Sword Hands 

What I like about the sword-shaped hand is its ability to dress a watch up or down, depending on the design in question. If I were to ask you what makes a dress watch look so dressy, you may struggle to identify any one element in particular. 

But the central bridge that runs along the middle of a set of sword hands can catch the sun beautifully, adding shards of light across a display and enhancing a refined aesthetic. Take it away from the dress watch, and suddenly, the timepiece loses its classic, understated charm.

Sword hands are very popular and versatile. Defined by straight sides and a triangular, tapering tip reminiscent of a sword’s blade, they have been around since the 20th century and can be long and slim or short and wide in character. 

One of the most popular collectibles of all time is the Cartier Tank, with its signature blued steel sword-shaped hands that glide across a traditional Roman numeral display. In many cases, Cartier experts combine the sword handset with a striking blue cabochon spinel on the top of the crown. 

Whether you’re exploring the Tank collection, the Santos de Cartier line, or the effortlessly elegant bubble-shaped Ballon de Bleu watch, you’ll recognize the sword-shaped hands as a strong character element within some of Cartier’s greatest designs.   

Dauphine Hands

You may instantly associate Grand Seiko with its exquisite Zaratsu case polishing techniques or its entrancing hand-executed dials. Both are equally impressive, so I wouldn’t blame you. However, around 80% of the company’s watches also feature the dauphine hand, rather than the laser-cut hands we often associate with GS timepieces. 

Grand Seiko watches are characterized by blade-like bevels and perfectly finished case facets. These finishes create mirror-like distortion-free case angles and include the diamond-milled hand tips that you can see on designs from the Heritage collection.

It is thought that dauphine hands first began emerging during the 1940s, taking inspiration from the profile of a dolphin. They certainly share some of the elegance of the majestic marine mammal. The style comprises a tapered triangular or diamond tip. More often than not, you’ll see Grand Seiko refer to this dial element as a razor hand. 

Quite frankly, trying to capture the beauty and refinement of the dauphine hands on a Grand Seiko watch through images will never serve them justice. You simply need some time with the watch and an opportunity to tilt the case under the light at just the right angle. When the light hits the faceted edges of a GS dauphine hand, that crisp reflection of light is second to none. 

Leaf Hands

Leaf hands are often referred to as feuille hands and, as their name would suggest, call to mind the organic shape of a plant leaf. Their elegant, minimalist form lends a dial an air of subtle sophistication and formality, making them a particularly popular option for the common dress watch. 

The shape of this style of dial hand takes on a wide middle with a gently tapering tip. Often, the shape is echoed in the hand of a small seconds subsidiary, too, or in the sub-counters of a chronograph dial.

Feuille hands and leaf hands are one of my favorite styles. There is something satisfyingly accurate about their slender, sloping frames. The point at the tip of the minute hand, for example, gives a very clear indication of the time, leaving little room for error.

Like Moser & Cie, which offers a range of designs showcasing the slender leaf-like hand, IWC Schaffhausen also uses the handset for some of its more refined timepieces. Take, for example, the Portofino watch. 

IWC heavily draws inspiration from the relaxed way of life experienced in the Italian fishing village and features leaf-shaped dial hands, which gracefully sweep over several dial colors and arrangements. Some accompaniments to the leaf hand include power reserve indicators, small seconds sub-counters, moon phase complications, and the perpetual calendar. 

Alpha Hands

The alpha hand was quite a prevalent design during the 1950s and 1960s. Although it slightly favored the dress watch, many other genres carried the style tastefully, including more casually styled timepieces on leather bands. 

Rolex, IWC, Piaget, and A. Lange & Sohne have all used the alpha hand in their designs. The shape of this handset resembles the dauphine hand, albeit with a thinner neck and a longer tip.

The design is associated with the Greek letter “Alpha” and is also adopted by the manufacturer of the popular Tonda watch – Parmigiani Fleurier. Simple, understated, and pared-back, the alpha watch does its job of telling the time clearly and is one of the most versatile styles to find on the dial of a watch. 

Sometimes, the alpha hand design can appear openworked on a dial. At other times, a brand may choose to treat the surface of the hands with luminous material and place them upon a skeletonized dial, as seen in the Schaumburg Glacier Hand Made watch.

Syringe Hands

Syringe watch hands are unmistakable. They feature a barrel-shaped body and a needle-sharp pointer that indicates the time of day with a sense of confidence and precision. The history of the syringe hand is uncertain, but earlier Omega watches of the 1940s feature the style.

Today, Patek Philippe is perhaps best known for its use of the syringe hand. Back in 2019, the prestigious manufacturer launched the reference 5172G, featuring a white gold case, a dramatic blue dial, and, upon it, a set of crisply carved syringe hands that stretched out to kiss a set of legible white Arabic numerals. 

Quite literal in their nomenclature, they evoke the shape of a medical syringe but were frequently used in the design of the pilot’s watch. You’ll also see them in field watches, accompanied by a graduated minute track, and they have also been featured in the designs of German tool watch manufacturer Sinn.

Syringe hands, whether on a pilot watch, a Patek watch, or a field watch, give me classic yesteryear vibes and look like they’ve literally stepped off a vintage fighter jet. Luckily, the market for pilot’s watches and on-board instrument-inspired designs is still in high demand, so we’ll likely be seeing the syringe hand for many years to come. 

Arrow Hands

Arrow hands are exactly what their name would suggest – watch dial hands in the shape of an arrow. You’ll often see them on sports watches, like the Speedmaster and the 1950s Seamaster Planet Ocean. The brand ushered in this style alongside its Railmaster watch during this era, combining the arrow tip with the triangular shaft. 

Omega then retired this “Broad Arrow” design years ago, yet the demand for the vintage-inspired dive watch has brought the style back onto Omega watch dials in recent years. Aside from being an Omega trademark, the classic arrow hand appears on pilot’s watches, too.

One element of this design that is largely beneficial for legibility is its ability to feature plenty of Super-LumiNova material on its surface. In many examples., the hour hand on a watch is defined by an arrow tip, and the minute hand is the dauphine profile. 

Over the last few years, there has been a resurgence in the arrow hand, despite it being more popular last century. Dive watches also commonly sport the arrow hand since it serves such a useful and legible purpose underwater. The Seiko Prospex Turtle is a great example of such, imparting a sense of boldness, stealth, and power with its highly distinguishable shape.

Cathedral Hands

When you gaze into the cathedral hands of a watch’s dial, they immediately evoke the stained glass windows of an old church or the steep turrets that reach out on a Gothic cathedral. There are no prizes for guessing why and how these hands acquired their name. The cathedral hand is ornate and detailed and adds a layer of depth to any timepiece.

Brands optimize the profile of the cathedral hand to hold a large amount of luminous material on its surface. Hamilton likes to use the style on its Khaki Field watches, while Longines, Oris, and Montblanc have all shared in the success of the design, implementing it into models like the Majetek, the 1858, and the Big Crown, respectively.

The cupola-like hour hand of a cathedral handset looks similar to a chess piece and accompanies a longer, thinner minute hand that widens as it travels up from the base. Almost skyscraper-like, cathedral hands are one of my favorites, adding plenty of character to a timepiece and making for a great talking point on a watch.

Mercedes Hands

There is only one brand we instantly think of when we hear the words “Mercedes hands”, and that is Rolex. Similar to a badge that automobile enthusiasts will be familiar with, models like the Explorer, the Submariner, and the GMT-Master have all sported this style of hand on their dials. 

In some ways, the Mercedes style is similar to the cathedral. The hour hand has a barrel-shaped base and a larger circular area towards the tip. The circular section is divided into three parts, resembling the Mercedes logo.

Mercedes hands are not exclusive to Rolex, however. The crown brand began using this style in the 1950s on its sports watches as a subtle tribute to British swimmer Mercedes Gleitze. 

Anyone familiar with Rolex’s history will know that Gleitze became an advocate for Rolex watches during this time. The minute hand that accompanies the hour hand on a Mercedes handset is usually a simple baton index and can be seen in designs like the TAG Heuer Professional 1000 series and the Omega Seamaster 200 models.

Breguet Hands

Similar to how we associate Mercedes hands with Rolex, Breguet hands will always be inextricably linked to elegant Breguet watches, mainly because it was Abraham-Louis Breguet who designed them. Breguet was (and still is) a central figure throughout the history of watchmaking.

Not only did the watchmaker develop timepieces that incorporated innovative winding mechanisms, escapements, and tourbillons, but he also developed one of the first-ever mechanical wristwatches.

Breguet hands first made an appearance on the dial of a watch back in 1783. Crafted from blued steel, they provided an eye-catching finish to the display, boasting a slim shaft and hollow moons for the tips. Considering the Breguet hand is one of the most archaic styles on the market, it has never lost its appeal or its charm. 

Collectors still find the style just as captivating and intriguing today as they did back then. Over the years, many manufacturers adopted this style of watch hand. They have sparked particular enthusiasm over the last three years and live to tell the tale of their fascinating comeback story.

Snowflake Hands

It’s great when a watch with complete purpose can still look simple and straightforward without needing a lot of flamboyant features. Case in point: no salt and pepper is needed for the Black Bay watch. 

It has all the Tudor seasoning it needs with a set of snowflake hands – a signature design element that has come to be exclusively associated with the watchmaker. This style of hand made its debut in designs like the Tudor Submariner ref. 7016 and 7021 models. The two watches released during the 1960s featured these hands resembling the segment of a snowflake and became a characteristic encouraged by French military divers at the time.

Combined with a legible sword-shaped minute hand and a set of blocky, angular hour markers and circular indexes, the dial promised incredible readability and afforded a great surface area for the lume. Wherever you are in the world, when you see this handset, you can be certain you’re looking at a Tudor watch since the design element has become a universal feature of Tudor watches.

The Takeaway

Discussing the loaded topic of watch hands can take some time, and with so many different styles to explore, it can become one of the most intriguing facets of watch collecting. While this guide highlights 11 of the most popular styles, it is missing some other classic designs like the spade, the pointer, and the lollipop hand.

Still, by now, you should have a clear indication of what style you like the most. So enjoy exploring our range of luxury watches here at Exquisite Timepieces, where you’re likely to see many examples of these hand styles as you peruse what we have on offer.

The Breitling affiliate program allows anyone with a following to promote one of the world’s leading luxury watch brands. Through Exquisite Timepieces (ETP), bloggers, influencers, and affiliates can earn commissions by recommending Breitling watches to their audiences. 

With Breitling’s long-standing reputation for precision, innovation, and craftsmanship, combined with ETP’s solid track record in the market, this partnership offers a lot of potential for high earnings and success.

Introduction to Breitling Watches

Breitling is one of the most iconic brands in luxury watchmaking, renowned for its perfect blend of innovation, timeless craftsmanship, and high performance. The prestigious Swiss brand was founded by Léon Breitling in 1884 with a reputation as the go-to watch in the aviation industry. Its focus on precision, durability, and technical excellence has solidified the brand’s place as a top-tier choice for many collectors and enthusiasts.

One of the key selling points for Breitling watches is its in-house mechanical movements, which are rigorously tested to perfection. Each Breitling watch is masterfully engineered for precision, featuring bold and functional designs and chronometers that are optimized for both performance and aesthetics. Among the most iconic Breitling models are popular in the world of aviation, diving, and sports. This includes the Breitling Navitimer, Superocean, Avenger, and Chronomat. 

With a heritage that’s rooted in performance and innovation, Breitling watches are widely sought after not just by watch collectors but professionals, athletes, and divers around the world. Whether for their technical excellence or timeless designs, Breitling timepieces continue to hold their place at the top of the best luxury brands in the industry.

Overview of Breitling’s Affiliate and Influencer Programs

Breitling’s affiliate program is available through partnerships with trusted retailers in the market. This program allows you to promote the brand’s iconic models like the Navitimer and earn high commissions on sales. From bloggers to YouTubers, and social media influencers, it offers a fantastic opportunity for anyone with an audience or following. Affiliates can leverage the brand’s global reputation and get to promote high-end products that are widely coveted, especially among serious watch collectors. 

Breitling has also forged key partnerships with influencers and brand ambassadors who embody the same values the brand promotes such as innovation and adventure. While these partnerships are not for everyone, the official ambassador program allows partners access to new releases, limited-edition models, and select promotional content. 

In terms of the commission structure, the Breitling affiliate program is highly competitive offering affiliates about 3-5% per eligible sales. Considering the brand’s high average order value (AOV), you only need a few sales to generate a substantial payout. As for cookie duration, most programs offer a 15-day window, meaning your commissions are secured as long as the sale is completed within the period through your affiliate link.

As a Breitling affiliate, you can access basic marketing materials and affiliate support. Payments are made through wire transfer or PayPal once you meet the minimum payout requirements.

Benefits of Partnering with Exquisite Timepieces for Breitling Watches

As a highly coveted brand, Breitling watches are always in high demand but it’s even easier to promote when you partner with Exquisite Timepieces (ETP). ETP’s affiliate program offers a more enticing and superior option compared to other programs. As a leading luxury watch retailer with over 20 years of experience, ETP guarantees affiliates higher commissions, top-notch support, and a wide selection of Breitling timepieces you can promote. 

One major benefit of partnering with ETP’s affiliate program is the generous commission rates, which are slightly higher than what most programs offer. You can earn up to 6% on eligible Breitling watch sales. The cookie duration is also longer, giving affiliates a 30-day window to increase their chances of earning commissions. 

Another key advantage affiliates can enjoy through ETP’s program is exceptional customer support and marketing tools. You get access to detailed product descriptions and a range of promotional banners, images, and custom links to boost and optimize promotions. In addition, ETP also offers a dedicated affiliate dashboard so it’s more convenient to track sales, conversions, and clicks. 

Finally, partnering with Exquisite Timepieces to promote Breitling watches aligns your efforts with a trusted retailer known for exceptional customer service, a wide selection of luxury watches, and product authenticity. Not only are you guaranteed higher commissions and an extended cookie duration but you also get complete support to ensure your success as an ETP affiliate. 

How to Join the Exquisite Timepieces Affiliate Program

If you’re ready to become an affiliate and promote Breitling watches, joining the Exquisite Timepieces program is quick and simple. Here are the steps you need to follow to get started:

1. Go to our official Exquisite Timepieces Affiliate Program page to sign up.
2. Complete the application form by filling out basic information, which includes your full name, email, phone number, and a link to your main media channel.
3. Wait to get approved, usually within 2 business days after you have submitted your application. Once our team reviews and approves your application, you’ll receive immediate access to the affiliate dashboard.
4. You can start promoting Breitling watches using our range of marketing materials from high-quality product images, banners, custom links, and detailed descriptions.
5. Track your performance using our dedicated tracking tool to monitor clicks, conversions, and earnings.

Aside from access to the affiliate dashboard and marketing tools, Exquisite Timepieces also offers ample support to all Breitling affiliates. We have a team of account managers to ensure you make the most commissions promoting luxury watches.

Why Promoting the Breitling Affiliate Program through ETP is a Great Opportunity

If you want to promote Breitling watches more effectively, you need to partner with a reliable and authorized dealer like Exquisite Timepieces. With Breitling watches’ high order value combined with our lucrative affiliate program, you are in a great position to succeed as an affiliate and enjoy generous commissions even with just a few sales.

Whether you’re a blogger, influencer, or regular watch enthusiast with a social media presence, you can become a Breitling affiliate today.  Sign up for the Exquisite Timepieces affiliate program and enter the luxurious world of luxury timepieces!

FAQs

How much commission can I earn promoting Breitling watches through Exquisite Timepieces?

Compared with other affiliate programs, Exquisite Timepieces offers high commissions, up to 6% commission on all eligible sales made through your affiliate links. With Breitling’s high average order value (AOV), you can enjoy substantial earnings even with a few sales.

What is the average order value (AOV) for Breitling watches?

With the value and prestige of Breitling watches, it has a high AOV, typically in the thousands of dollars. Due to the luxury price point, you can expect your commissions to add up quickly.

How does Exquisite Timepieces support affiliates in boosting their sales?

As a reputable retailer in the luxury watch market, Exquisite Timepieces guarantees complete support for its affiliates. This includes offering a range of marketing materials to optimize conversions, regular tips and insights to improve your strategies, and an affiliate dashboard for easy monitoring of sales. We also have a team of dedicated account managers ready to assist you in any way you need.

What is the cookie duration for the Exquisite Timepieces affiliate program?

Exquisite Timepieces program provides a generous 30-day affiliate cookie, giving you an extended period to earn commissions. As long as users complete a purchase through your link within the cookie window, you can expect to earn commissions with the sale.

What makes promoting Breitling watches through Exquisite Timepieces a profitable opportunity?

Exquisite Timepieces ensures a high conversion rate with competitive prices, great deals year-round, and shipping across the U.S. You can also promote other luxury brands available in our massive catalog to further boost your commissions.