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Most of us have owned a watch or two in our lives, but usually, it’s something we grab for its stylish look or just to make sure we’re not late for work. Maybe it’s a trusty Seiko or a handsome Omega. But there’s a whole other world of watches out there, ones that don’t just keep time but also rake in millions of dollars at auction. 

If you’ve ever wondered what makes a tiny, ticking piece of machinery worth millions, then you’ve come to the right place. While most of us can’t imagine forking the cost of a mansion for something that fits our wrists, there are plenty of collectors and connoisseurs out there who are more than happy to drop millions at the drop of a gavel. 

These watches aren’t just about telling the time anymore; they’re about owning a piece of history, art, and, in some cases – or maybe even every case – status. 

But as you’d expect, the world’s most expensive watches ever sold at auction aren’t your run-of-the-mill wrist candy. These aren’t the kind of watches you’ll find in the window of any regular jewelers. 

These are watches that combine rarity, craftsmanship, and a touch of fame to create something almost completely one-of-a-kind. So, what exactly makes a watch rake in the big bucks? Is it all about diamonds and gold, or is there more to the story?

What Makes a Watch Fetch a High Auction Price?

So, what exactly makes a watch go from a cool, high-performing accessory to something worth more than an actual house? Well, to be honest, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer, and as you’ll soon find out, every watch has its own unique story and set of reasons for being valued so highly. But there are also a few key ingredients that can send a watch’s price tag souring. 

For starters, the rarity of a watch makes a big difference to its value. The fewer pieces made, the higher the price will likely be. Some watches are limited editions while others are one-of-a-kind, and buzzwords like this can get collectors salivating. 

To add to this, when a watch is made by some of the most prestigious watchmakers in the world, such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Audemars Piguet, you’re also more likely going to hold sway in the auction world. These brands have been around for decades, even centuries, and have built a reputation for producing exceptional timepieces.

Complications are another thing to consider. In the watch world, complications refer to features beyond just telling time. These could be anything from a perpetual calendar to a moon phase indicator or even a split-second chronograph. The more complicated, the better. And the more people are willing to shell out. 

Similarly, materials help. Sure, gold and diamonds come to mind, but it’s also more about the craftsmanship and uniqueness of these materials that really add value. Some watches are made with super rare materials or are meticulously hand-crafted down to the smallest detail. When you’re dealing with that level of precision, you’re not just buying a watch but a work of art.

Finally, we need to talk about provenance. This is a fancy word for “who owned this thing before?” For example, a watch that once belonged to a celebrity or a historical figure is much more likely to sell for the same design that’s been sitting in a shop window for several years.  

Take the Omega Speedmaster, which belonged to astronaut Dave Scott, as an example. This was one he wore during the Apollo 15 mission, and it made history as the first privately owned timepiece to go to the moon. When it hit the auction block, it sold for a whopping $1.6 million. Personal connections and backstories are a game changer. 

Top 5 Watches Sold at Auction 

Now that we know what makes a watch sell for insane prices let’s dive into the watches that have broken all the records. Some of these have stories attached that are just as cool as the watches themselves. So, without further ado, let’s take a look at the top 5 most expensive watches ever sold at auction…

#1 Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime (ref. 6300A-010)

The Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime (ref. 6300A-010) is a true masterpiece, breaking records when it sold for a staggering $31.19 million at the Only Watch Charity Auction in Geneva in 2019. What makes this watch so special? First, it’s the only Grandmaster Chime ever made in stainless steel—a material rarely used by Patek Philippe for its grand complications. 

It’s also a watch that features 20 complications – yes, that’s a lot. This includes an alarm that chimes the pre-set time and a date repeater that sounds the date on demand. It’s also equipped with two dials housed in a reversible case, allowing the wearer to display either dial. 

With “The Only One” engraved on the case, it’s also a timepiece that oozes exclusivity and prestige. Combining its rarity, complexity, and the charitable cause behind its creation, the Grandmaster Chime stands as one of the most valuable watches ever sold.

#2 Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication (ref. 198.385) 

Another model from Patek Philippe is the Henry Graves Supercomplication (ref. 198.385). Created in 1933 for American banker Henry Graves Jr., this stunning timepiece features 24 complications, making it one of the most complex mechanical watches ever made. 

The watch took nearly five years to craft and remains a testament to Patek Philippe’s exceptional artistry and technical expertise. Its most notable features include a perpetual calendar, sunrise and sunset times, a moon phase indicator, and a minute repeater. 

The intricacy of its design is matched only by its beauty, with an elegant gold case adorned with exquisite engravings. In 2014, the Henry Graves Supercomplication was sold at auction for a jaw-dropping $24 million, making it the most expensive watch ever sold at the time.

#3 Rolex Daytona “Paul Newman” (ref. 6239)

The Rolex Daytona “Paul Newman” (ref. 6239) is arguably one of the most famous designs from the Swiss watch giant, and for good reason. Originally introduced in the 1960s, this watch gained its nickname thanks to the legendary actor and race car driver Paul Newman, who was often seen wearing it. The design featured an Art Deco-like dial with a cream backdrop and striking black sub-dials – a combination of details that remains a huge draw for collectors today. 

In addition to having a celebrity connection, the Rolex Daytona “Paul Newman” was a rare timepiece, with only a limited number of people dressed in these specific aesthetic details. In 2017, a “Paul Newman” Daytona sold for an astounding $17 million at auction, making it one of the most expensive wristwatches ever sold. 

Today, many models have emerged that resemble the original Daytona, but none carry the same cachet. Even though these newer versions don’t fetch millions, they are still some of Rolex’s most coveted designs.

#4 Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (ref. 1518)

Our next legendary timepiece is the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (ref. 1518. Launched in 1941, this model was the world’s first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch ever to be produced in a series by a manufacturer. 

Its innovative perpetual calendar complication accurately tracks the date and accounts for leap years. But what makes the reference 1518 exceptionally rare is the fact that only four examples were ever produced in stainless steel. 

This unique material, combined with the watch’s already limited production, has elevated its status among collectors. In 2016, one of these steel models sold at auction for an astonishing $11 million. Other models with differing case materials have also been up for auction since, and although none have quite beaten their predecessor, they rarely fail to hit six figures. 

#5 Patek Philippe “Prince Mohammed Tewlik A. Toussou” (ref. 1518 with French calendar)

Yes, you read that right. Our final watch in today’s rundown is yet another Patek Philippe and another reference 1518. This release was also part of a limited production run, with only 14 known pink gold versions in existence. It’s also largely set apart by its unique French calendar, which adds a special charm to its already sophisticated design. 

In December 2021, the Patek Philippe “Prince Mohammed Tewlik A. Toussou” watch, named as such for the royal figure that owned it previously, made headlines when it sold for an impressive $9.57 million at a Sotheby’s auction in New York. Its combination of rich history, royal provenance, and the allure of its pink gold casing contributed to its elevated value.

Conclusion

So, there you have it, the five most expensive watches ever sold at auction. As we’ve hopefully demonstrated, these are watches that are famed for their high levels of craftsmanship, rarity, and history. 

From the unique Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime to the iconic Paul Newman Daytona, each piece has captivated collectors for their stunning designs and intricate complications and their connections to famous figures and pivotal moments in time. 

They may not be watches we’ll ever own personally, but it’s certainly fun to hear about their stories and the extraordinary price tags they’ve reached!

We’ll forgive you if you haven’t thought much about your watch’s crystal. At the end of the day, this thing is almost entirely transparent so it’s not going to be the first thing you notice. That clear thing covering the dial does a lot more than you might expect, however. But isn’t it just glass? Well, yes… and no. That “glass” is actually called watch crystal, and it does a lot more than just look pretty. 

It’s a little like your watch’s armor, and it greatly affects how tough your watch is, how clear the dial looks and importantly, how much you’ll be shelling out for the timepiece at checkout. If you’ve owned watches in the past, it’s likely you’ve noticed scratches popping up on some watch crystals more than others, or you’ve noticed some watch crystals looking perfectly clear while others can be a little cloudy. That’s because not all watch crystals are the same. 

In fact, there are three types of main watch crystal types: sapphire crystal, mineral crystal and acrylic. Each has its own superpowers and its own weaknesses, so the type you choose can make a real difference in your watch’s durability and aesthetic. In this guide, we’ll be breaking down these three crystal types for you. We’ll walk you through the pros and cons of each, so you can make the right decision for you when it comes to choosing your next timepiece.

The Acrylic Crystal 

Alright, let’s get into the wonderful, occasionally scratchy world of acrylic glass! I like to think of acrylic glass as the humble, hardworking, and slightly underappreciated material that covers the face of many watches. While it might not be as flashy as sapphire or as refined as mineral glass, acrylic is a classic choice for a reason.

 What Exactly Is Acrylic Glass? 

First things first, despite being called “acrylic glass,” it’s not glass at all. Acrylic is actually a type of plastic, specifically polymethyl methacrylate (or PMMA if you’re feeling fancy). You might also hear it called Plexiglas or plexiglass. It’s lightweight, clear as can be, and is used for watch crystals because it shares some glass-like optical properties while being a lot easier on the wallet. It’s been a go-to material in watchmaking for decades and is especially common in vintage watches since it was used a lot more regularly during the 70’s and 80’s.  

 A Quick History of Acrylic in Watchmaking 

Acrylic glass, or PMMA, was first developed in the 1920s by British chemists Rowland Hill and John Crawford, who were working with the company Imperial Chemical Industries. It was later introduced commercially in 1933 by the German company Röhm and Haas under the trade name Plexiglas. This material became especially popular due to its unique combination of transparency, durability, and lightweight properties, mimicking the appearance of glass but with greater resistance to impact and lower cost. 

Its early uses were mainly industrial and military. For example, during World War II, acrylic glass was widely used in aircraft canopies, submarine periscopes, and even gun turrets, valued for its impact resistance and transparency. After the war, acrylic became more accessible and was adapted for consumer products, including watch crystals. It first appeared on watches around the 1950s, and quickly became a standard material, especially throughout the 1970s and 1980s. 

Pros of Acrylic Glass 

·       Impact Resistance – One of the top reasons acrylic has stuck around for so long is its durability. Unlike glass, which can crack or shatter, acrylic is more flexible and can absorb a hit without falling to pieces. This makes it ideal for sports or outdoor watches and any watch likely to see some rough handling. It’s why a lot of smartwatch brands tend to use acrylic glass on their designs, because it’s best for those that like to go hiking or jump out of planes. It can take a beating without flinching.

·       Light as a Feather – Acrylic glass is noticeably lighter than other crystal materials like mineral glass or sapphire, making it super comfortable to wear. If you’re after an everyday watch that doesn’t feel like a weight on your wrist, acrylic is a solid choice. Less weight on your wrist means it’s most likely going to be more comfortable.

·       Cost-Effective Choice – Acrylic glass is cheaper to produce than other crystal types, so it’s often found in more affordable watches. This means you can get a stylish, functional watch without spending a fortune, which is great news for newcomers to the watch world or anyone looking to expand their collection on a budget.

·       Easy to Polish – While acrylic might scratch more easily than other materials (we’ll get to that in a minute), it has a secret weapon: you can polish those scratches away! With a little bit of polishing, acrylic crystals can be buffed back to clear, like-new condition. No need for costly replacements or worrying about every little nick or scuff—just polish, and it’s like they were never there. 

Cons of Acrylic Glass

·       Scratch-Prone – Despite acrylic happily taking a strong hit without cracking, it can be pretty easy to scratch. Toss it in your pocket with your keys, or brush it up against a rough surface, and it’s likely to come away with a few marks. But as we mentioned earlier, scratches on acrylic are generally fixable with a quick polish. However, if you’re someone who wants a completely scratch-free watch face all the time, acrylic might drive you a little nuts.

·       Looks a Bit “Cheap” – At the end of the day, acrylic is plastic, and it sometimes lacks the high-end look that mineral or sapphire crystal can give a watch. Especially when you hold it up next to sapphire, it can seem a little less sophisticated or luxe. That said, plenty of watch lovers appreciate the retro, warm look that acrylic gives, so this really comes down to personal taste.

The Mineral Crystal

Now, let’s talk about mineral glass, the reliable middle ground of watch crystals. Mineral glass is probably the most common glass you’ll find on mid-range watches, giving you a solid blend of durability, affordability, and clarity.

What Exactly is Mineral Glass?

This time mineral glass is, as its name suggests, a type of glass. But it’s not just any old glass like what our drinking glasses are made of. It’s toughened up with a process called tempering (or hardening) where the glass is heated to high temperatures and then cooled rapidly. This treatment strengthens the glass, making it harder and more resistant to scratches and impacts than regular glass. It won’t take on sapphire crystal in terms of hardness, but it’s got way more scratch resistance than acrylic.

A Quick History of Mineral Glass

Mineral glass began making its way into watches during the mid-20th century, as watchmakers were looking for a stronger alternative to acrylic that was still cost-effective. By the 1970s and 1980s, mineral glass was all over the place in the watch world, quickly becoming the industry standard for most mid-range models. Its clarity, scratch resistance, and lower price point helped mineral glass become a favorite among both brands and buyers alike. Interestingly, there is no inventor credited to the creation of mineral glass but many accessible watch brands, like Seiko and Citizen, are known for playing a significant role in popularizing the material.

Pros of Mineral Glass

·       Scratch Resistance – One of mineral glass’s big selling points is its scratch resistance. While not as tough as sapphire, mineral glass is sturdy enough to handle everyday knocks and scrapes without showing too much wear. If you’re careful with your watch but still want something resilient enough for regular use, mineral glass strikes a good balance. It’s definitely more scratch-resistant than acrylic, so it doesn’t need constant touch-ups to stay looking nice and clear.

·       Cost-Effective – Mineral glass is affordable to produce, which keeps prices down on watches that use it. This makes it a popular choice for budget-conscious watch collectors who want durability without breaking the bank. You get a quality crystal that offers some resistance to scratching and impact, all while keeping your wallet happy.

·       Clear as Day – Mineral glass is known for its optical clarity, allowing you to see your watch’s dial and hands clearly. In some cases, it’s even coated with an anti-reflective (AR) layer, so you get an extra-clear view without those annoying reflections. This is especially nice if you’re outdoors a lot or tend to check the time in bright settings, as it keeps the dial sharp and easy to read.

Cons of Mineral Glass

·       Prone to Scratches (Eventually) – While mineral glass is more scratch-resistant than acrylic, it’s not invincible. With daily wear, it may eventually collect some fine scratches, especially if you’re around abrasive surfaces a lot. Unlike acrylic, which can be polished back to perfection, mineral glass scratches are tough to remove, so it’s best to be a little cautious if you want it to stay pristine.

·       Risk of Breaking and Shattering – Mineral glass is toughened, but it’s still glass at the end of the day. Under heavy impact, it can crack or shatter, which makes it a bit more vulnerable than sapphire, which has both greater scratch and shatter resistance. If you’re looking for ultimate durability and are willing to invest a little more, you might want to consider sapphire instead.

The Sapphire Crystal

Finally, we have sapphire crystal glass which, to be completely honest, it the crème-de-la-crème of watch crystals. It’s known for being insanely tough, ultra-scratch resistant and has a beautiful sheen to it that makes reading watch dials effortless. Its hardness is only second to diamonds (the hardest material known to man).

What Exactly Is Sapphire Crystal?

Sapphire crystal isn’t glass, but a synthetic material made from aluminum oxide which is the same stuff as sapphire gemstones. But rather than being blue or pink as we best know sapphires, it is its clearest form. To make it, they use a process called the Verneuil method which involves heating up aluminum oxide crystals to super-high temperatures and then forming them into a transparent, super-durable material. Then it’s cut, polished, and shaped to fit your watch.

A Quick History of Sapphire Crystal

Sapphire crystal was introduced during the early 1900’s but was originally used for industrial purposes, like in scientific instruments and camera lenses. It wasn’t until the 1960s and 70s that watchmakers started catching on and using it for watch crystals. It’s thought that one of the first watches to use sapphire crystal was Jaeger-LeCoultre in the 1930’s with the Swiss watchmaker placing it on their iconic Reverso watch. But really, it was Rolex that first used it extensively, spurring the material to be a widespread material with models like the Rolex Daytona in the 1980’s. Today, sapphire crystal is incredibly popular in many watches, notably those in the luxury category.

Pros of Sapphire Crystal

·       Harder Than a Rock: Seriously, sapphire crystal is tough. It ranks a 9 on the Mohs scale (with the diamond ranked at 10), which means it’s almost impossible to scratch. Owning a sapphire crystal watch means you rarely have to worry about getting any scratches or cracks at all.

·       Crystal Clear: Sapphire crystal is known for its amazing clarity. You’ll get no fog, no distortion – just a perfect, clear view of your watch dial. It’s like looking through a sheet of glass that’s been perfectly polished.

·       Low Maintenance: Unlike acrylic and mineral glass, which can scratch over time, sapphire stays flawless for way longer. That means fewer trips to the watch shop for polishing and cleaning.

·       Chemical Resistant: We’re all prone to being a little clumsy, so if you accidently splash coffee or hand sanitizer on your watch, you can feel assured that sapphire crystal is resistant to most chemicals.

·       That Luxe Look: Finally, watches with sapphire crystal just look more premium. It has this beautiful shine that gives the watch a high-end vibe. This is especially clear when you place a sapphire crystal watch next to one made of acrylic.

Cons of Sapphire Crystal

·       A Little Brittle: Despite sapphire crystal being incredibly hard, it’s not entirely “shatterproof.” It could still chip or crack if you drop it or hit it hard against a solid surface. So, as tough as it is on scratches, it’s a little more delicate in the impact department.

·       Price Tag: Sapphire crystal is expensive to make. So, watches with sapphire crystal are generally pricier. It’s why you’ll always find sapphire crystal glass on top-end watches like those from Omega, Rolex and Patek Phillippe. It’s the best of the best, so it’s used by the best of the best.

·   No Fixing Scratches: Unlike acrylic glass, which can be polished if it gets a scratch, sapphire doesn’t really “polish” the same way. Once it gets a scratch, you’re stuck with it until you’re willing to replace the entire crystal.

Why is the Watch Crystal Important?

That clear shiny piece of crystal that sits on top of your watch dial is incredibly important, we promise. It might seem like a small thing, but the right crystal can make a huge difference to how your watch wears, looks and lasts.

First off, watch crystals are your watch’s first line of defense. It’s the material that will take the hit when you accidentally knock your watch on a doorframe or drop it on the floor. If you pick a cheap, soft crystal like acrylic, you’re likely going to be dealing with scratches every few months. On the other hand, sapphire crystal is almost indestructible. It won’t get scratched up anywhere near as easily, keeping your watch looking fresh and sharp for much longer.

Next, there’s clarity. If you want a watch that looks as clear and shiny as it does in the store, you’ve got to think about the crystal. Sapphire gives you an unbeatable view of the dial with no distortion. Mineral glass and acrylic glass are still breathtakingly clear, but since they scratch a lot easier, they can eventually get an almost “hazy” effect which will in turn affect the legibility of the dial.

Then there’s the cost. Sure, you might love the idea of rocking a Grand Seiko with sapphire crystal, but if you’re on a budget, mineral glass or even acrylic might be the way to go. Just keep in mind that these cheaper options may scratch more easily and might need some more TLC. Instead, if you’re someone who wants low-maintenance gear, then investing in sapphire might save you hassle in the long run.

Finally, style matters too. Watch crystal plays a big role in the aesthetics of your watch. A crystal with that perfect shine with little to not scratches will undoubtedly elevate the whole vibe of your watch.

Conclusion

At the end of the day, the type of watch crystal that’s best for you really depends on your personal style, lifestyle, and budget. If it were me, I’d save up a bit more for sapphire crystal since it’s super durable, scratch-resistant, and looks amazing. But I totally get that not everyone wants to drop that much on a watch, and that’s okay. Acrylic and mineral glass can still look great and hold up well if you take care of them. It’s all about finding the right balance that works for you.

More often than not, I find myself reporting on watches that have just launched. I’m usually trawling the latest exhibitions and trying on brand-new pieces that are fresh off the design bench. So, it’s not often I get to review a watch that’s been out for a while, whether it’s a watch I previously missed or one I’ve not had the chance to sit down with for a long time. 

In the case of today’s review, it’s the latter. The Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 is a watch I’ve not seen, or honestly really thought of, since I first started collecting watches. That’s because this is a timepiece that came out over a decade ago, a time before Grand Seiko split from Seiko to become its own brand. 

So, why the trip back in time to review the SBGM021? Well, it’s simple: sometimes, it’s worth taking a second look at a watch purely for the fun of it. Has this Grand Seiko kept its original charm, or has it begun to feel a bit outdated?

A Decade-Old Watch

In case you’re not familiar with it, the story of Grand Seiko began in 1960 as Seiko’s high-end sub-brand. It was a collection created to show the world that Japanese craftsmanship, or at least Seiko’s craftsmanship, could rival those that were leading the way in Switzerland. 

Their goal was simple: to create a watch with incredible accuracy, durability, and beauty. For decades, the brand rather quietly crafted timepieces under the Seiko umbrella, slowly but surely earning a reputation among watch enthusiasts for the exact reasons they set out: beauty, precision, and robustness. 

However, in 2017, Grand Seiko officially split from Seiko to operate as a distinct luxury brand. While still owned by the same parent company, this independence gave Grand Seiko greater creative control and allowed it to further elevate its designs and innovation, competing directly with established Swiss luxury brands. 

This shift marked Grand Seiko’s evolution from a hidden gem to a front-line luxury label known worldwide for its incredible craftsmanship and distinct, heritage-inspired designs. 

The Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 is a prime example of a model from Grand Seiko’s “pre-independence” era. Released in 2013, it features a rare dial layout where the Seiko logo sits prominently at 12 o’clock while the Grand Seiko logo rests at 6 o’clock. 

This layout is a relic of its days as a Seiko sub-brand, making it something of a historical artifact and a piece of evidence of Grand Seiko’s pre-transitional period. 

Owning a pre-2017 Grand Seiko like the SBGM021 is, in a way, owning a piece of the brand’s legacy as it’s a design that reflects the brand’s journey from a prestigious but understated sub-brand to a globally respected luxury label. 

Its historical significance has also added to its value, especially among collectors who appreciate Grand Seiko’s history. It’s for this reason, it’s a pleasure to get hands-on with the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 watch again after over a decade.

A Vintage Case 

The case of the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 watch is a wonderful blend of vintage design cues and modern craftsmanship, drawing clear inspiration from Grand Seiko’s original 1967 62GS case, albeit with updated proportions. 

Measuring 39.5mm across and 13.7mm thick, it’s a really nice size for my five-and-a-half inch. It’s a set of dimensions I’d happily wear daily, and yet, with its polished finish, it gives the model a formal edge. 

One of the standout features of the SBGM021’s case is its Zaratsu polishing, a technique that’s well-known by Grand Seiko watch collectors at this point. Achieving Zaratsu’s mirror-finish shine requires highly skilled artisans who have mastered the art after several years of training. 

The process involves holding the precious stainless steel against a spinning tin plate at precise angles and pressure, creating a reflection so smooth and clear that, when I wore this watch, I could use parts of the case like a mirror! 

And given the rounded, almost “pot-bellied” profile of this case’s architecture, that perfect polish is a challenge to achieve, demanding absolute precision to get that seamless, symmetrical finish. 

The lugs of the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 are a highlight, too. They’re short, gently curved, and feature broad polished facets that really catch the light. 

I wouldn’t mind a touch more satin brushing for contrast, but as it stands, the variation between polished sections on the case sides and lug tops adds just enough depth to keep things visually interesting. 

Then there’s the domed box sapphire crystal on top, a feature that subtly nods to the watch’s vintage roots. It almost looks like 1960s plexiglass, except you can expect a whole lot more scratch resistance and durability. 

The front pairs with a sapphire case back, which allows for an unobstructed view of the automatic movement working hard inside. The case back has six screws around the edge to help ensure its water resistance of 30 meters. 

In a similar fashion, the crown, at 3 o’clock, is gently knurled, making it easy to operate. It’s a simple push-pull crown and is embossed with the GS logo in relief. 

An Ivory Lacquer Dial 

For the dial, the Japanese watchmaker has opted for a beautiful ivory lacquer base, which fits all too well with the vintage charm it aims for. It has the same classic refinement of early Grand Seiko models with a rich, creamy finish that captures and softens light beautifully. Like the sizing and polishing of the case, it’s a color that works well during the day as well as during formal evening occasions. 

One of the first things that catches your eye is the dual branding on the dial. It’s an unusual feature in today’s world and a direct result of this model’s pre-2017 origins when Grand Seiko was still a Seiko sub-brand. 

At 12 o’clock, the silvered “Seiko” logo is prominently displayed, while the vintage “Grand Seiko” insignia is subtly positioned at 6 o’clock, accompanied by the “Automatic” and “GMT” text in classic black print. 

Some might find the dual branding distracting or less “luxury” than post-2017 Grand Seiko models, but to me, it adds character. It’s a reminder of the brand’s history and offers a genuine vintage appeal that’s rare in today’s market. 

The hands and markers also help the dial shine, both literally and figuratively. Each hour marker is crafted with micro-metric faceting, meticulously finished and polished using diamond-tipped tools by hand to catch the light with a jewel-like quality. 

It’s these painstaking details that make Grand Seiko’s dials feel almost alive. The markers, like the sword-like dauphine hands, gleam with a mix of satin and high-polish finishes, creating contrast against the ivory lacquer. 

Of course, you also have the GMT function which is tastefully executed with a short blued GMT hand. It’s a subtle pop of color that contrasts elegantly against the other polished steel hardware and cream backdrop. 

Unlike many GMT watches where the extra hand can clutter the dial, here it’s compact and discreet, marked with a thick arrow tip that’s easy to read without overwhelming the design. The dial’s internal 24-hour scale is printed in black for clarity, aligning with the black minute track that runs along the outer edge. 

The only other feature to note on the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 watch’s dial is the date window placed at 3 o’clock. It’s been cleverly integrated into the layout, taking the place of the hour marker in a way that maintains the dial’s symmetry. Framed elegantly with its own polished silver border, it provides functionality without disrupting the balance.

Movement 

Housed inside the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 watch is the automatic winding Caliber 9S66. Yes, it’s not quite as spectacular as maybe Grand Seiko’s well-known Spring Drive or Hi-Beat movements, but it’s still a beautiful in-house movement that features everything you could need, from an impressive power reserve to chronometer-worthy levels of accuracy. 

The “9S66” designation of the caliber tells you all you need to know. The 9S indicates that it’s from Grand Seiko’s mechanical series, while the “66” points to its dual-time capability, allowing you to track a second time zone with ease. 

This model includes a “true GMT” function, meaning the hour and GMT hands are independently adjustable. In practical terms, this allows you to set the local hour hand separately from the GMT hand, an especially convenient feature for travelers since you can adjust the local time without interfering with the main time display or the second time zone. 

The Caliber 9S66’s daily accuracy is particularly impressive, adjusted to an astonishing -3 to +5 seconds per day. That’s better than the industry-standard chronometer specifications, which permit -4 to +6 seconds. 

Grand Seiko also rigorously adjusts each movement to six positions rather than the typical five positions used in Swiss chronometers. It’s just another way Grand Seiko proves they’re in direct competition with the Swiss, always trying to do better. 

Beyond its precision, the Caliber 9S66 is robust and built to last, with a 72-hour (or 3-day) power reserve that gives you plenty of leeway before needing a rewind. The movement uses 35 jewels and incorporates Grand Seiko’s proprietary SPRON materials in both the mainspring and hairspring, providing exceptional anti-magnetic resistance and resilience. It also operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour.

Straps

The strap isn’t usually the first thing you notice about a watch, but upon taking the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 out of its box for this review, I was really surprised at how nice the strap felt and looked. It’s subtle yet unmistakably luxurious, with a brown alligator print on the top and a soft, milky-smooth calfskin lining on the underside. The calfskin feels incredibly supple against the wrist, giving it a broken-in comfort right from the first wear.

The shade of brown is a classic match for the ivory dial, and the brown stitching adds just enough structure without taking away from the overall refinement. Adding a vintage-inspired touch, the stainless steel pin buckle harkens back to Grand Seiko’s early designs from the 1960s. It features a beautifully engraved Grand Seiko logo, carefully set against a textured backdrop that’s intentionally noticeable and has a single, push button-release fold for easy wear.

At 19mm, the lugs might pose a challenge for finding alternative straps, but the SBGM021’s drilled lugs make swapping them a breeze if you’re in the mood for a new look. While the alligator strap gives it a formal edge, a vintage-style calfskin strap with off-white stitching could add a bit of rugged character and help the watch transition from a dress watch to more of a comfortable travel companion.

On-Wrist Experience

So, how did I find wearing the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 watch this past week? Honestly, it’s been a delightful experience. At 39.5mm wide and 13.7mm thick, the watch manages to sit lower on the wrist than you might expect, thanks to its bowl-shaped case design. This makes it surprisingly versatile, fitting a wide range of wrist sizes, from as small as 6 inches to as large as 8 inches.

While it is slightly thicker than anticipated, keep in mind that some of that is due to the domed sapphire crystal, which adds to the vintage appeal. It’s also a thickness that is manageable, and unless you’re completely committed to a super tight shirt cuff, you’ll still be able to pull this off nicely with formal attire. 

The alligator strap adds another layer of comfort that is worth noting. It feels luxurious against the skin and contributes to keeping the weight of the stainless steel nicely balanced. It’s not a heavy watch, but you still feel like you’re wearing something solid and special.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko SBGM021, while a remarkable timepiece, is now over ten years old, making it somewhat of a rarity in the market today. If you’re on the hunt for this specific model, don’t expect to find it brand new at your local authorized Grand Seiko retailer. If you do, please just make sure they are authorized to sell Grand Seiko watches first. We’d hate for you to purchase a counterfeit timepiece. 

For those looking for authentic models, stick to websites like Exquisite Timepieces which are reputable authorized Grand Seiko stockists, selling all their new models complete with official paperwork and warranties.

For those who want to get their hands on the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021, your best bet is to explore the second-hand market. While this model is relatively scarce, it can occasionally be found.

The watch typically sells for around $4,000 in the pre-owned market. This price point reflects its historical significance and the overall collectability of Grand Seiko watches today.

And if you’re unable to find a pre-owned SBGM021 or if you prefer something brand new, consider the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM221. Priced at $4,600, it features the same stunning ivory lacquer dial and GMT complication, along with a compact set of dimensions. Keep in mind that it boasts the updated Grand Seiko logo at 12 o’clock, eliminating the Seiko branding entirely, but it retains much of the charm and specifications of the SBGM021.

Conclusion

So there you have it; the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM221 might just be even better now than it was when it was released. It continues to exemplify everything the brand stands for, even after a decade, offering high levels of beauty, accuracy, and durability. 

It’s a dress watch that perfectly blends elegance and functionality, giving you a formal look with technology to get you through every day and symbolizing a piece of Grand Seiko’s history we should never forget.

I’m particularly fond of the rounded case and domed sapphire crystal. It gives the watch a beautiful vintage aesthetic that makes you forget you own a modern-day timepiece and, instead something truly from the 1960s. I also love the leather strap. It’s incredibly soft and comfortable and complements the ivory lacquer dial nicely.

Finally, I need to applaud Grand Seiko for the thoughtful dial layout. It’s all too easy for GMT watch dials to feel overly complicated and busy, especially when incorporating a date complication and dual branding, like in this instance. 

And while I know it’s not the cleanest of dials, it’s still sophisticated, refined, and easily legible. It’s for all these reasons the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM221 watch has retained its appeal even after ten years.

I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing a number of watches throughout my career, but if there’s one brand whose press photos almost never do their watches justice, it’s Grand Seiko. That’s not to say they are bad photographers or even bad at marketing; it’s simply that these watches have such incredible attention to detail and high levels of finishing that even the best cameras in the world can’t photograph their beauty. 

There are a number of Grand Seiko watches I could use as an example for this point, but the model I had the joy of reviewing this week is the perfect example: the Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013. 

It’s a simple watch in many ways, especially for Grand Seiko. There’s no overly complicated texture or pattern on the dial, a classic – although highly accurate– quartz movement inside, and an easily wearable 40mm case made in commonly seen stainless steel. So how does a watch that sounds so regular on paper become one of the most beautiful entry-level watches I’ve ever seen?

The Grand Seiko Heritage Collection

The Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch was first released in 2020, and added to the Japanese watchmaker’s Heritage collection. It joined two other models, also forming part of this entry-level family, including the cream-coloured SBGP009 and the black-dialed SBGP011. 

At the time, these three models replaced the SBGV221 with a champagne dial and the SBGV223 with a black dial. Their biggest improvement was the movement change, with the updated Caliber 9F85 taking the place of the older Caliber 9F82. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch and its two brothers that launched with it ticked all the boxes of the luxury watch manufacturer’s Heritage collection. Stylistically, they had classic silhouettes with predominantly polished cases, clear and easy-to-read dials, and fine attention to detail. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage family is, for largely this reason, known for its classic appeal and is often a popular choice for collectors wanting the Grand Seiko name at an accessible price. Sure, there are watches in the collection powered by their more affluent Spring Drive and Hi-Beat movements, but those powered by their 9F quartz series are excellent for those seeking an entry-level timepiece. The Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch is one of the same.

A Super Slim Case 

With a diameter of 40mm, a lug-to-lug measurement of 47mm, and a thickness of just 10.6mm, this watch might be up there as one of Grand Seiko’s most wearable models. It fits comfortably on the wrist and is especially low. 

I know many of my fellow Grand Seiko lovers out there often have a hard time with some of their case sizes, especially the thickness. The Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch is an exception to the rule, however, sitting wonderfully low on the wrist, making it ideal for any of you who have a penchant for tight shirt cuffs. The low profile allows the watch to slide effortlessly under the sleeves, providing both elegance and practicality. 

The dimensions help to set the Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch apart, too, for its versatility. Whether you have smaller wrists like mine—measuring just five inches—or larger wrists up to eight inches, this watch accommodates all. It strikes a balance between making a statement and offering a sleek, almost skin-like feel.

The case is entirely finished by hand using Grand Seiko’s signature Zaratsu polishing technique, which creates an exceptional mirror-like shine. Trained artisans carefully hold the stainless steel against a spinning tin plate, a technique that takes up to three years to learn. But hopefully, as you can tell, the result will be worth it. 

It delivers a beautifully polished finish and a standard of craftsmanship that I believe is rare in the watch industry today, especially at this price point. In contrast to the polished surfaces, the Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 features some satin brushed elements on the lug tops and bracelet links, enhancing its visual appeal and adding depth to the overall design. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 boasts an impressive 100 meters of water resistance, which is not often seen in dress watches like this. Grand Seiko ensures that most of their timepieces offer at least this level of protection, thanks to a securely closed and screw-down stainless steel case back and a reliable push-pull crown at the 3 o’clock position. 

While an exhibition case back might have been a nice addition should there have been a mechanical movement placed inside, the engraved lion emblem in relief on the back is a worthy substitution that reflects the brand’s fierce and powerful identity. The crown itself is gently knurled and embossed with the Grand Seiko logo. 

Lastly, the bezel features a conical shape that is smoothly polished using the same Zaratsu technique. This beautifully anchors the slightly domed sapphire crystal glass at the top, which is treated with an anti-reflective coating on the inner surface. This not only reduces glare but also lends the watch a subtle vintage charm, completing a well-rounded timepiece that is as functional as it is stylish. 

A Classic Navy Blue Dial 

Some dial colors are truly classic, and when it comes to timeless options, black, silver, and navy blue will always be at the top of the list. While I appreciate the recent trend toward brightly colored watch dials, there’s always a place for these classic hues that effortlessly complement any outfit or occasion. The deep navy blue dial of the Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch is the perfect example of this. 

Its dark blue surface showcases a stunning sunburst decoration, creating a subtle shimmer that adds depth to the watch face. Depending on the lighting conditions, the shade of blue can change ever so slightly—one moment appearing as a rich royal blue and the next taking on an almost black appearance. This dynamic quality enhances the watch’s versatility, making it suitable for both casual and formal settings. 

Like the case, the dial is completely hand-finished, which is truly remarkable for a watch at this price point. Every detail, from the hands to the hour markers and the date window, is meticulously crafted by skilled artisans using diamond-tipped milling tools. 

These talented craftsmen specialize in creating tiny components all day, every day, ensuring that each piece is of the highest quality. The hour and minute hands are sharp and modern, while the seconds hand is slim and straightforward, making it almost unnoticeable as it glides around the dial. 

Each hour marker is slightly faceted, reflecting light beautifully and enhancing the dial’s overall aesthetic. These markers elegantly match the hands with their own mix of polished and brushed finishes. 

The only other hardware on the dial is the applied GS logo at 12 o’clock, accompanied by the Grand Seiko name printed directly beneath it, and the bordered date window at 3 o’clock, which features a black-on-white date disc, providing essential functionality without cluttering the face. 

Notably, there’s no writing positioned at 6 o’clock, which is often the case with many watches. This design choice contributes to a clean, crisp finish that makes the dial feel uncluttered and sophisticated. 

I do find myself wishing that the date disc here was finished in navy blue rather than white for added aesthetic appeal, but I can appreciate that the current design enhances legibility and still does not detract from the overall display. This is just me being picky.

A Caliber 9F Movement

The Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 is powered by the Caliber 9F85 quartz movement, which is widely regarded as one of the best quartz calibers on the market. This movement boasts incredible tolerances of +/- 10 seconds per year, a remarkable achievement in the realm of quartz technology. 

In comparison, standard quartz movements typically have an accuracy rating of around +/- 15 seconds per year, making the 9F85 significantly more precise. This level of accuracy is attributed to several advanced features, including a quartz trimmer designed to adjust for drift in the quartz crystal over the years, ensuring that your watch remains as accurate as the day you bought it. 

Another noteworthy characteristic of the Caliber 9F85 movement is its thermal compensation. This means that the movement is engineered to adjust for variations in temperature that can affect the accuracy of quartz watches. 

Fluctuations in temperature can cause the quartz crystal to expand or contract, potentially leading to deviations in timekeeping. However, the thermal compensation feature in the 9F85 movement allows it to maintain exceptional accuracy even under varying environmental conditions. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch’s movement offers another unique function known as an independent hour hand. Rather than employing a traditional quick-set date mechanism, the hour hand can be set independently. This feature is particularly advantageous for travelers, as it makes switching between different time zones a seamless process. 

When you adjust the hour hand independently, the minute hand and seconds hand continue to operate unaffected, allowing you to easily set your watch to the local time without disrupting the timekeeping of the movement. It’s a thoughtful feature for those who like their watch to be exact to the second. 

Finally, the Calibre 9F85 is a 9-jewel movement that has been meticulously designed, built, and regulated in-house by Grand Seiko. This commitment to quality and craftsmanship is evident in the movement’s performance and longevity. Plus, with an impressive battery life of 3 to 4 years, you can enjoy the convenience of a reliable timepiece without the hassle of frequent battery changes. 

An Oyster-Like Bracelet 

For its strap, the Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 opts for a full stainless steel bracelet. The three-row link architecture showcases staggered intermediate and differential link styles, reminiscent of the iconic Rolex Oyster, yet distinctly Grand Seiko in its execution. 

The polished link ends catch the light beautifully, while the unique bevelling along the link edges adds a touch of sophistication, effectively separating the link tops from the sides with a rounded finish. 

It’s clearly a strap largely designed for comfort and wearability, including removable links that are screw adjusted so you can easily make adjustments in your own home. There are also a couple of half links to help achieve that perfect size. However, it’s worth noting that there are no micro-adjustments available, which might limit immediate sizing options just slightly. 

The single-fold steel deployment clasp features a twin-trigger release mechanism, requiring you to press both buttons simultaneously to open the bracelet. This added security feature ensures that your watch remains securely fastened to your wrist, providing peace of mind during daily wear. The clasp also boasts the Grand Seiko logo embossed in relief, serving as a subtle yet stylish reminder of the craftsmanship behind the piece.

With a 20mm lug width and drilled lugs, changing straps on this watch is a breeze. This feature allows you to easily swap out the stainless steel bracelet for a variety of straps, enabling you to customize the look of your watch to suit your style or occasion. 

Given the dial’s striking deep navy blue color, the Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 is truly a strap magnet, inviting you to explore endless possibilities in personalization.

On-Wrist Experience

As you can probably tell from the introduction, I have really enjoyed wearing the Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch this past week. It’s the perfect blend of simplicity and elegance, offering a set of dimensions that well and truly cater to every wrist. With a case diameter of 40mm and a slender thickness of just 10.3mm, this watch offers a beautifully flat profile that sits comfortably on the skin. Its low-profile design is ideal for those with tighter shirt cuffs or anyone seeking an unobtrusive timepiece.

For me, though, most of the beauty of this watch lies in its simplicity. There’s an understated charm to it that makes it a pleasure to wear without any fuss. 

For those of us with smaller wrists, like my own at five-and-a-half inches, the SBGP013 feels substantial yet never overwhelming. It’s a watch I wouldn’t worry about wearing because it’s overpriced or overfussy in its design. Instead, it’s beautifully simple and feels well suited to any occasion. 

And if you have larger wrists than me, which is most likely the case, the watch will still maintain an elegant, dressy presence. If you have wrists of 8 inches or above, it might look a little small on you, so it could be worth exploring some of Grand Seiko’s larger models. That said, if you love the vintage look of a small watch, don’t let my words stop you.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch might just be one of the Japanese watch manufacturers most affordable models, retailing at an attractive price of $2,600. This makes it an ideal entry-level watch for those looking to experience the craftsmanship and elegance that Grand Seiko is renowned for without breaking the bank. Given its affordability, it’s not uncommon to find this model on the second-hand market for around $2,000, too.

The SBGP013 is a non-limited edition watch, but it has been part of Grand Seiko’s portfolio since its launch in 2020, so how long it will remain available is anyone’s guess. This uncertainty does add a layer of urgency, and if you are someone remotely tempted by this model, know that Grand Seiko does have a tendency to suddenly take even their best-selling entry-level models out of circulation with little to no notice.

If you are considering purchasing the Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch, be sure to order from an authorized retailer like Exquisite Timepieces. This ensures that you’re receiving a genuine Grand Seiko watch complete with official paperwork and warranty, giving you the peace of mind you deserve for your investment.

Conclusion 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch is an easy timepiece with which to fall in love. Because of its simplicity, there’s little you can fault. The quartz movement is one of the best on the market and allows for an incredibly compact set of case dimensions. 

The 10.3mm thickness is going to be a huge selling point for those of us who love a nice flat finish on the wrist. Plus, that deep navy dial, while overly simple for the likes of Grand Seiko, is still breathtaking and offers all the high levels of finishing and attention to detail the brand is best known for. This is an entry-level watch I’d recommend to anyone wanting to get started in the realm of luxury watchmaking.

I think most of us watch collectors and timepiece enthusiasts have something that instantly attracts us to a watch. For some, it’s an obsession with a particular complication, or for others, it can be a particular genre of watch, such as a diver’s or pilot’s. For me, though, it’s a dial color. In particular, a dial done in a particular shade of light blue. Very much like the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch I’ve got the pleasure of reviewing today. 

I don’t know what it is, but there’s something so beautiful about this shade of blue. It’s different from the classic navy we’ve seen so many times before, and yet it’s still not so loud and expressive that it feels unwearable or overwhelming. 

It’s not a typical turquoise blue often associated with the sea or sky either, but more of an icy hue giving off an undeniable elegance and tranquility. 

It’s also not just a smooth ice blue dial, but one with a special texture, one that Grand Seiko describes as being inspired by the natural ‘icefall’ phenomenon seen when the springs near Mount Iwate freeze over in winter’s cold air.

Inspired By Grand Seiko’s First 9S Mechanical Watch

Grand Seiko has no shortage of milestones in their long history, but one of their most significant is arguably the launch of their first 9S mechanical watch in 1998. The Caliber 9S series was another breakthrough in the brand’s long journey to create the world’s most precise and reliable watch. 

It was designed and manufactured completely in-house by the Japanese watchmaker and ultimately led to the creation of a new standard of accuracy for the Grand Seiko brand. It was durable and precise, with an average daily discrepancy of +5 to -3 seconds, a rating greater than even chronometer-certified timepieces. 

The first Caliber 9S watch was housed in a 37mm case, a design that was a departure from the brand’s earlier designs, emphasizing more of a modern aesthetic yet still maintaining the classic elegance that Grand Seiko is known for. 

Last year, to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the 9S caliber, Grand Seiko released limited editions, the SBGH311 and SBGR325, both echoing the dimensions of the original model. These timepieces honored the pioneering spirit of the brand’s head of design, Nobuhiro Kosugi, who played a crucial role in the 1998 creation. 

Sadly, though, these two watches were limited editions and were not easy to get your hands on. But thankfully, the new Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch brings everything back and more. It has the same faithful 37mm wide case, a 9S Hi-Beat movement, and, of course, one of the most exquisite ice blue dials I have ever seen. 

The First 37mm Ever-Brilliant Case

So, as I mentioned, the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch comes in the same 37mm case as the original Caliber 9S watch. But what’s even cooler is that this is the first 37mm case from Grand Seiko that is made from their famous Ever-Brilliant steel. 

This is a stainless steel alloy that’s 1.7 times more corrosion-resistant than the usual 316L stainless steel most watches use. That basically means it’s a lot more durable and also has a wonderful bright white sheen that adds to the watch’s dressy appearance. 

As for its elegant silhouette, the Grand Seiko SBGH347 looks little to no different to the original timepiece launched 25 years ago. If that doesn’t speak volumes about the enduring quality and appeal of a design like this, I don’t know what does. 

It’s a nice reminder that sometimes, case designs don’t need constant updating. They’re timeless and just as beautiful now as they were back then. I agree and can quite confidently say that the case here is spectacular. 

For starters, most of the case is Zaratsu polished, a technique done entirely by hand. Talented artisans are trained for up to three years to hold the precious metal against a spinning tinplate to get the perfect curve and mirror-like shine. 

The Zaratsu polishing works perfectly with the case’s sharp angles, contrasting nicely with the few brushed surfaces found on the lug tops and bracelet links. 

The dimensions of the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch are also wonderful and will no doubt attract men and women of all wrist sizes. It has a compact 37mm diameter and a lug-to-lug measurement of 44.6mm. 

It sits extremely comfortably on the wrist and yet doesn’t feel invisible, as is often the case with super slim dress watches. It has some heft yet is still easily worn under a shirt cuff with a height of 13.3mm. It’s not overwhelming, but you can definitely feel its presence. 

Other features of the watch include dual-curved sapphire crystal on top, which adds to its 1990s-inspired look and, of course, provides us with a healthy amount of scratch resistance. The glass is also treated to a layer of anti-reflective coating on the inner surface for exceptional legibility. The case back also boasts a piece of sapphire crystal surrounded by a beautiful beaded edging, adding a touch more flair and allowing for a view of the Caliber 9S inside. 

Finally, we can’t overlook the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch’s 100-meter water resistance. You’ll not often find a watch with a compact size like this, a full metal bracelet, and a beautiful formal occasion-worthy dial with a water resistance that is this high. 

No, it won’t survive deep sea diving, but it’ll happily withstand a shallow swim or heavy rainfall. Its water resistance is assisted by the screwed case back and screw-in crown positioned at 3 o’clock, beautifully knurled and decorated with the GS logo in relief.

An Icy Blue Dial

Grand Seiko is no stranger to creating beautiful, intricate dials and surprise, surprise, the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch delivers yet another breathtaking one. At first glance, the dial texture appears to be a clever blend between a traditional vertically brushed finish and Grand Seiko’s famous “Birch” dial. 

The latter is inspired by the delicate patterns of birch trees, characterized by deep, zig-zagging grooves. In contrast, the SBGH347’s texture features thinner, straighter lines that create a more understated and refined appearance, one that cleverly mimics the serene elegance of winter landscapes. 

In the press release, Grand Seiko poetically describes the inspiration behind the dial coming from the natural beauty found in Hachimantai in the Iwate Prefecture, where Nanataki—a majestic 30-meter waterfall—originates from the streams cascading down Mt. Iwate. According to Grand Seiko, the dial represents this frozen waterfall, evoking the massive icicles formed during the coldest months of the year. 

Sadly, I can’t say I’ve ever visited this particular waterfall to advise whether the dial does it justice or not, but I’m inclined to just nod and agree with Grand Seiko. It’s a dial that looks and feels like winter on the wrist. 

As I mentioned in the introduction, the ice blue shade of the dial is a personal favorite of mine. It’s captivating, striking a balance between cool and refreshing, dreamy and stylish. It’s a color that would work just as well for casual occasions as well as formal ones, inviting a strange sense of calm and an element of serenity. 

As for the rest of the dial, it’s quintessential Grand Seiko. The markers and hands are expertly finished, featuring polished top surfaces that sparkle under the light. The large diamond-cut bevels add an extra layer of sophistication, creating a visual feast that is both captivating and functional. 

The markers are faceted, and the hands are sharp, sitting beside the familiar applied Grand Seiko logo at 12 o’clock. There’s also a framed date window at 3 o’clock, which is a handy touch that adds functionality without over-cluttering the display.

A Hi-Beat Movement

Since the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch is a timepiece honoring the original 9S Caliber watch, it would be wrong for it not to be powered by one of the brand’s modern-day 9S calibers. 

Inside is the in-house Caliber 9S85, a high-frequency mechanical movement operating at 5Hz, or 36,000 vibrations per hour. This means that the movement achieves an impressive accuracy rating of +5 to -3 seconds per day, a standard that exemplifies Grand Seiko’s commitment to precision and reliability. 

The movement boasts a noteworthy 55-hour power reserve, ensuring the watch remains ticking even if it’s taken off the wrist for a couple of days. 

There’s also a total of 37 jewels and plenty of handsome decoration applied to the movement’s architecture, which, as mentioned, is put on display through the watch’s exhibition case back. The finishing details include polished surfaces, gilded lettering, and a wonderfully striped rotor.

 A Full Metal Bracelet

The Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch comes equipped with a standard three-row link stainless steel bracelet. Again, it uses Grand Seiko’s Ever-Brilliant steel alloy for a beautiful shine and high levels of durability. 

We’re also promised a combination of finishing to match the case, including brushed link tops and polished sides. This contrast adds a touch more depth and visual interest, but one that is outshined – and rightly so – by the dial. 

The bracelet leads to a folding clasp with a push-button release. Sadly, there is still no micro-adjustment on these GS bracelets – something many of us Grand Seiko collectors are still holding out for. That said, there are some half links for close adjustment, and the links are held by screws, so you can make changes relatively easily. 

The Ever-Brilliant Steel bracelet also comes with a 19mm lug width, which, while slightly awkward for finding alternative straps in this size, is manageable thanks to the drilled lugs. This means that once you find a compatible strap, you’ll be able to install your new watch band easily in your own time. 

On-Wrist Experience 

As you can probably tell from my words so far, wearing the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch these past few days has been a delightful experience. It’s an absolutely beautiful watch with a breathtaking dial that deserves to be seen in person and a nice, unisex case that will suit almost anyone. 

With a case diameter of 37mm, a length of 44.6mm, and a thickness of 13.3mm, this watch is ideally sized for a wide range of wrist sizes. It strikes a beautiful balance in width, making it suitable for nearly anyone. I have a five-and-a-half-inch wrist, and since I generally gravitate toward oversized watches, I find this timepiece to be a standout. 

The SBGH347 makes a statement without feeling overly bulky or cumbersome. I believe it would look best on wrists ranging from 6 to 7.5 inches; any larger, and it might start to appear a bit small. However, don’t let that discourage you. Smaller watches definitely have their place, and if you appreciate a subtle vintage aesthetic, this watch delivers that, too. 

While the 13.3mm thickness is a tad more than I would prefer, it’s still manageable. I would have loved for it to be a couple of millimeters slimmer, but it remains thin enough to comfortably slide under a shirt cuff for more formal occasions. Overall, the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 wears beautifully, making it a versatile choice for both everyday wear and special events.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch is a little pricier than those launched last year for the Caliber 9S’s 25th anniversary, retailing for $6,900, but keep in mind that this novelty does come with the company’s Ever-Brilliant Steel case, a huge upgrade from the standard 316L steel used previously. Plus, when you take into account the detailing on the dial and the hi-beat in-house movement working hard inside, it’s hard to argue on the retail price.

It’s also a non-limited edition and is currently available worldwide as of September 2024. I have no doubt, though, that due to its beautiful dial and accessible sizing, this will be a popular model, so it’s still worth catching it in stock when you can! 

Just be sure to stick to authorized Grand Seiko retailers like Exquisite Timepieces so you can guarantee you’re getting a genuine timepiece with all the official paperwork.

Conclusion

In conclusion, the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch is a superb watch that embodies everything this Japanese watchmaker stands for. 

It’s a remarkable entry-level watch in the brand’s Hi-Beat line-up, and as the first mid-size watch presented in the striking Ever-Brilliant Steel at this size, I have no doubt it’ll stand out in a market saturated with 40 to 42mm timepieces. 

Sure, the case wouldn’t hurt by being the smallest bit thinner, but the elevated finish on the case and dial quickly makes up for that. And alas, it seems my obsession with icy blue dials remains, and I have yet another Grand Seiko watch added to my long, never-ending wishlist.