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I have had the privilege of being a luxury watch collector and enthusiast for over a decade, like myself, any astute collector with a mature amount of knowledge in haute horology can appreciate the significance Grand Seiko has as a profound watchmaker that at some point in our watch journey, “blew our minds”. 

Seiko is the founder of quartz technology, which brought precision timekeeping to the masses. Shortly after, it became the largest watchmaker in the world. Grand Seiko was created as a benchmark for its most brilliant minds to relentlessly create the best timepieces.

The SBGC205 is a revolutionary sports chronograph from Grand Seiko. It is an intriguing option in the realm of haute horology chronographs, a seemingly unassuming timepiece, yet, a behemoth in its display of industry-leading technology that is equally balanced with wrist charm.

In its pursuit of precision, reliability, and accuracy, this timepiece harmonizes its tribute to fine mechanical watchmaking and modern-day technology through its Spring Drive Movement. 

To be discovered by its wearer is a quintessentially Japanese luxury timepiece design, fashioned in a lightweight material with supreme finishing and housing an extremely high-tech movement offering many impressive features such as a chronograph, GMT, power reserve indicator, date complication, and automatic winding.

History

In 2004 Grand Seiko finally realized a dream and a feat of 27 years with the launch of its first Spring Drive Caliber, the 9R65 in the 9R6 series. The concept of Spring Drive was to combine a traditional mainspring with an electronic regulator. The final result would deliver an accuracy of 1 second a day, equal to that of electronic watches, on which its target was initially set. 

It also managed a power reserve of 72 hours, an equally astonishing feat. The first Grand Seiko Chronograph, Spring Drive Chronograph, and most accurate luxury chronograph would launch shortly after in 2007 in the 9R8 Series, the family belonging to the SBGC205, powered by the Caliber 9R86.

The SBGC205 from the Sport Collection is a second-generation model from 2017 featuring Grand Seiko Branding, updated upon the similar SBGC005 launched in 2007 that featured Seiko/Grand Seiko dual branding from when the Grand Seiko line was under the Seiko umbrella and not its own brand.

Case

At a glance, the case of the SBGC205 appeals to its Sports Collection/Chronograph nameplate. Featuring a large and legible 43.5mm case that is 16.4mm thick, sporty lines, bold pushers, and mostly hairline finishings.

Familiar to the watchmaker, it is fashioned completely in High-intensity titanium, the perfect metal for a sports chronograph of its kind due to its high strength-to-weight ratio, lightweight wearing experience, and darker rugged sheen that plays well with the sports aesthetic of the timepiece. Additionally, this metal is hypoallergenic for wearers with sensitive skin.

Grand Seiko timepieces are reputed for their exquisite Zaratsu hand finishings. Zaratsu is different to conventional polishing as it uses a metal disk with an abrasive sheet that grinds the metal surface to create ultra-flat surfaces on multiple planes brought to a sharp point, which is how sharp angles are created on Grand Seiko cases; this is done by hand. 

The hairline finish called Sujime, featured mostly on the SBGC205, gives it a sporty look and scratch resistant qualities, it is also done by hand above already Zaratsu mirror finished surfaces.

Viewed in detail, the sporty case lines of the SBGC205 features sloping flanks defined by a continuous thick mirror finished chamfer that merges into hairline finished wide tapering and sloping lugs. 

Its bezel is sloped and mirror finished, complimenting an open view to its dial through a Dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on its inner surface for enhanced legibility. The many facets and finishings of this timepiece balance its visual mass exquisitely well.

What doesn’t go unnoticed, giving it a bold design, are its large 1964 Tokyo Olympics Stopwatch inspired screw-in two stage construction chronograph pushers that allow for 100m of water resistance and have been made with large barrels with generous fluting for ease of use. They also feature mirror polish and match the winding/time setting crown of the watch. 

The case-back of this timepiece is cupped in shape and measures about 3mm, it holds in place a flat transparent sapphire crystal that allows for easy viewing of its delicious 9R86 Caliber.

Dial

There is a lot to be discovered in the feature rich and high finish dial of the SBGC205. What it displays is two time zones, a 12 hour chronograph, a date, and its power reserve of 72 hours. 

It takes on a handsome gilt configuration, with a glossy black dial and mostly contrasting golden indications. Its rehaut has white traces and minute indications in 5 minute intervals, along this periphery are also 24 hour indications in white. Adhering to the Grand Seiko style many facets feature on this dial so that it may sparkle with quality, these are seen on its gold plated minute/hour hands and indices that are satin finished and polished on their bevels. 

Other gold plated polished surfaces are its off centered Grand Seiko logo at 11 o’clock, and its date aperture at 3 o’clock that houses a monotone black date disk that matches the dial perfectly.

The main function of the SBGC205, a 12 hour chronograph, is read through three registers. For seconds, a counterweighted lancet style silver hand rotates from its center for easy readability. The minutes and hours are sub-dials with white markings and silver hands that are stacked vertically around the date window on the right side of the watch, with minutes placed at 1.30 o‘clock measuring up to 30 minutes, and hours placed at 4.30 o’clock measuring up to 12 hours. 

For symmetry, the left side of the dial is balanced with a small-seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock for the running seconds with white indications and a gold hand instead of silver. Similarly, for its power reserve, a gold hand that rotates along a 90 degree axis with white indications can be seen at 7 o’clock. 

Finally, for viewing of additional time zones, a GMT hand with an arrow indication in silver attached to a black stem that camouflages itself with the dial can be seen rotating along its dial from its center.

Movement

The Spring Drive technology that powers the SBGC205 is completely unique to Grand Seiko and cannot be replicated by any other watchmaker in the industry. This feat has been achieved due to Grand Seiko’s vertically integrated manufacture; which means everything is made in house, and due to the watchmaker’s vast expertise in mechanical techniques and industry leading quartz technology developed for its own watches.

The Spring Drive 9R86 Caliber seen in the SBGC205 is the most precise spring driven chronograph in the world. Delivering a precision of plus or minus 1 second a day, and measures elapsed time up to 12 hours through its chronograph with the same accuracy. It is automatic winding and has an impressive 72-hour power reserve.

The movement is equipped with high mechanical watchmaking technology, with its vertical clutch and column wheel configuration ensuring precise operation. Its glide motion hand powered by an electronic regulator stops instantly as its pusher is pressed, allowing it to measure time exactly and accurately. 

This accuracy is helped by its unique two stage chronograph pushers allowing for instant action, it has also been designed with comfort in mind and produces a satisfying click with the right amount of resistance. 

Additional features include a power reserve indicator, a date complication, and a GMT function that allows its wearer to measure an additional time zone.

The 9R86 is a complex Caliber with over 400 parts and 50 jewels. It is assembled in the hands of a small number of Grand Seiko artisans within its Shinshu Watch Studio in the Nagano Prefecture of Japan. 

Its finishing is superb with Grand Seiko’s distinct striping, called line graduation stripes. The column wheel as well as gold-colored chronograph minutes and hour wheels are visible, allowing for the chronograph mechanism to be viewed while in action. For the spring drive enthusiast, the Glide Wheel can also be seen in motion.

Straps

The titanium cased SBGC205 comes equipped only with a suitable titanium bracelet. Just like its case, it is hand finished and therefore treated to the watchmakers Zaratsu finishings. It is a five-link bracelet that has hairline finishings as well as mirror finishings. The hairline finishings occupy most of its surface area, suitably so for a rugged sports watch of its kind. 

The mirror finishings feature on the two smaller links surrounding the center links as well as on the edges on the outer links in the form of bevels, this is done to elegantly tidy up the ruggedness and visual heft of a mostly hairline finished bracelet that offers the practicality of less scratches through wear.

The bracelet lug width measures 21 millimeters and tapers toward a three-fold clasp with a twin trigger release. The clasp features a golden Grand Seiko logo to match the gilt aesthetic of the timepiece. At 21 millimeters, aftermarket straps cannot easily be found for this timepiece, however, there are some strap makers who cater to this sizing. 

Ergonomically, the light-weight construction of the bracelet, rounded links, and large channels visible from the underside in between the links allow for a comfortable and breathable on-wrist experience. Visually, the sporty and faceted bracelet design pairs perfectly with the case of the watch.

On-Wrist Experience

The SBGC205 is a compelling timepiece that ticks all the boxes for what is expected of a luxury sports watch. A 43.5mm case with 16.4mm of thickness cannot go unnoticed, however, for the incredibly vast feature-set that it offers the wearer and for the sake of legibility, this timepiece is a great performer. Additionally as a sports timepiece, the execution of a lightweight metal such as titanium with a comfortable bracelet make this watch easy to wear for its size.

Its cupped case-back with a thickness of 3mm and its sloped case and bezel allow it to fit slimmer on the wrist, therefore capable of sliding under a cuff. It can be argued that a reasonable lug-to-lug of 51.2cm allows this watch to be worn on wrists as small as even 14cmm, but would suit a larger one perfectly.

Its pushers have a “ready, set, go” feature allowing it to function like a camera shutter, where the user can depress halfway for the start of an event and press down for a defined click when an event begins, a satisfying timing experience for its wearer. This can make the SBGC205 the perfect companion for timing any sports event, ideally belonging to the racetrack paddock thanks to its luxury racing aesthetic. 

As a luxury sports watch, versatility is key to its design language, therefore, it is an easy companion to formal wear for the office or even casual wear for a night out with your friends.

Price & Availability

The SBGC205 has been recently discontinued and replaced with steel only variants, therefore, it is recommended to be sourced and purchased from an authorized dealer of Grand Seiko timepieces like Exquisite Timepieces, that can provide the timepiece in a reliable condition, with an after sales warranty, and also offer worldwide shipping. 

Exquisite Timepieces had this in stock when it was new for a retail price of $9,800, it has also been listed as “used” in the past for as low as $5,500. A brand new piece might be hard to come by, but should cost you approximately $7,000. 

Conclusion

I own a Panda Daytona, a luxury chronograph timepiece that is loved by a vast majority of collectors and considered to be the benchmark in luxury chronographs. In comparison, I believe the SBGC205 breaks out of the conventional mold of what is typically expected of a luxury chronograph watch, with its own Japanese philosophy of design and features. 

The SBGC205 lives up to the hype surrounding Grand Seiko watchmaking, executing on all points of reference. It is a fabulously finished timepiece, with a number of impressive complications, delivered in a wearable, versatile, and well designed package. It is a timepiece that redefines the accuracy of all other chronographs, and one that defines the high rated legacy of luxury Japanese watchmaking for decades on in a timeless fashion.

There’s no doubt that when you hear the name Omega Speedmaster, your first thought might be, “Ah yes, the first watch worn on the moon.” While the Moonwatch has firmly secured its place in the hearts and wishlists of watch enthusiasts, it’s important not to overlook the Speedmaster’s origins.

The name Speedmaster carries a rich history, whether it’s the version designed to endure high speeds on the track, racing against time, or the one crafted to support space exploration. 

While the journey to the moon undoubtedly elevated Omega’s status, for those who believed man’s true mission was racing on Earth, Omega represented the pinnacle of precision and reliability. Its robust chronograph, paired with the tachymeter scale on the bezel, made it an essential tool for speed enthusiasts.

There’s a reason the Olympics trusts Omega—the world’s biggest sporting event—to guarantee accurate and reliable results when capturing those split-second moments that determine the fastest on Earth. No one measures what the human eye can’t detect quite like Omega. So, buckle up for the origin story of a watch that may not have ventured into space but remains timeless: the Speedmaster Racing Chronograph.

About The Omega Speedmaster Racing

The Omega Speedmaster Racing Chronograph was the go-to timepiece for any motorist wanting to track their speed while looking stylish. If you’re new to chronograph watches, here’s a simple breakdown of how they work.

Like any regular watch, the Speedmaster Racing Chronograph keeps the time. However, it also features a chronograph—a specialized complication that acts as a stopwatch, essential for anyone looking to measure time intervals. 

Pressing the button at 2 o’clock starts and stops the chronograph hand, while the button at 4 o’clock resets the stopwatch, making it a versatile tool for timing events.

The original models of the Speedmaster Racing featured three sub-dials, a standard design in most chronographs. The sub-dial at 9 o’clock measures the seconds for the stopwatch, the one at 6 o’clock tracks the hours, and the sub-dial at 3 o’clock records the minutes that have elapsed. This setup allows for precise timing and makes the Speedmaster Racing an invaluable tool for drivers and timekeepers alike.

The Speedmaster Racing Chronograph also features a tachymeter, a scale on the bezel that measures speed based on time and distance. This tool is ideal for calculating speed over a fixed distance. 

To use it, simply start the chronograph at the beginning of the distance and stop it at the end. The central chronograph hand will point to a number on the tachymeter, indicating the speed. For example, if a vehicle takes 40 seconds to cover a mile, the hand will point to 100 on the tachymeter, indicating the vehicle was traveling at 100 mph.

According to some Omega lore, the first Speedmaster Racing didn’t feature the now-iconic black-and-white dial. While accounts differ depending on the storyteller, we can trace the origins of this legendary watch back to its initial release in 1957.

History of Omega Speedmaster Racing Watches

When the Omega Speedmaster Racing Chronograph was released, it was the first of its kind to feature a tachymeter scale on the bezel rather than on the dial, enhancing both functionality and legibility. 

While some recall seeing a racer wearing a black-and-white Speedmaster Racing in 1962 at Le Mans, others suggest that the original version featured a “racing” dial. 

This variation stood out with a prominent orange chronograph hand, along with matching orange sub-dials and hour indices. These vibrant colors improved legibility, making it easier for racers to track their stats on the go.

But as history would have it, the Speedmaster became synonymous with space exploration, and the production of the Racing variant was halted, overshadowed by the legendary “Moonwatch.” 

Records indicate that Omega produced a Speedmaster with a racing dial from 1968 to 1970, but these models were not mass-produced. 

Some notable releases were the Orange Racing ref. 145.022 that came with a sleek grey dial instead of the jet black we’ve come to know and the Speedmaster MKII ref. 145.014. With only a few hundred units believed to have been made, these watches are now considered rare and highly sought after by collectors.

In the 1990s, Omega revived their line of Speedmaster Racing watches, this time to honor legendary racers like Michael Schumacher and Michael Andretti. Omega created exclusive timepieces in their names, featuring bold designs and exciting color combinations that captured the spirit of motorsport.

Andretti’s Speedmaster Racing came with a striking blue dial, complete with the “CART” logo displayed in the 6 o’clock subdial. Both Michael and Ralf Schumacher joined Omega as ambassadors and received models within the Speedmaster Reduced family, available in vibrant yellow and red. 

Omega continued to honor Michael Schumacher over the years with several limited-edition Speedmasters, which helped shape the creative direction of the Racing line moving forward.

In 2004, Omega released a limited edition Speedmaster exclusively in Japan, with just 2,004 pieces produced. This “Japan Racing” model drew heavy inspiration from the 1970 MKII, showcasing the same gray dial with red and orange accents on the outer track. 

Alongside it was the now-famous Speedmaster “Tintin,” released in 2013, which, though initially a commercial failure, later gained a dedicated following. These releases sparked renewed enthusiasm among Speedmaster Racing fans, fueling demand for even more Racing editions.

Omega Speedmaster Racing: In-Depth Review

The Speedmaster Racing family now boasts several models, each with updated dials and enhanced movements. While many models share similar stats and features, some are designed to be even more functional for those eager to push the Speedmaster Racing to its full potential.

Case

The Omega Speedmaster Racing showcases a stainless steel case with a 44.25 mm diameter, a lug-to-lug width of 50 mm, and a thickness of 14.9 mm. Its domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects both the dial and the transparent caseback, offering a glimpse into Omega’s horological mastery. 

The chronograph buttons and crown provide a smooth, responsive action that enhances the user experience. With its mirror-like polished finish and 50 meters of water resistance, this striking case perfectly balances elegance and durability.

Bezel

A standout feature of the Speedmaster Racing, and the Speedmaster line as a whole, is the tachymeter scale’s placement on the bezel. This innovation marked a first in watchmaking, moving the tachymeter from the dial to the ceramic bezel. 

This not only enhanced the watch’s functionality but also contributed to the iconic look that has become synonymous with the Speedmaster name. Depending on the dial’s colorway, the markings on the tachymeter scale will vary in color. 

Dials

At first glance, you might think the Speedmaster Moonwatch and the Racing share a similar dial layout, but that’s not the case. The Omega Speedmaster Racing opts for two subdials positioned at the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock markers, unlike the three subdials commonly seen on chronographs. 

Notably, the 3 o’clock subdial merges the 60-minute and 12-hour counters, enhancing readability when precision timing is crucial, such as during high-speed activities. 

The Speedmaster Racing embraces a vibrant and sporty aesthetic, featuring hands and sub-dials in colors like red, yellow, and orange, which enhance visibility and evoke a sense of excitement. This colorful approach sets it apart from the traditional black-and-white designs often found in the Speedmaster lineup. 

Additionally, the markers around the dial draw inspiration from the checkered flag, further reinforcing the racing theme. These elements combine to create a dynamic look that reflects the spirit of motorsport while maintaining Omega’s signature craftsmanship and precision.

Movements

The Omega Speedmaster Racing is predominantly driven by the in-house Caliber 9900, with a few models as exceptions. Omega designed this movement to power a tool watch with utmost durability, precision, and reliability. Introduced in 2015, the Caliber 9900 is an automatic movement that features a chronograph complication and date display.

It boasts a 60-hour power reserve and an impressive accuracy of 0 to +5 seconds per day. The movement incorporates a Co-Axial Escapement for enhanced precision and stability, as well as a Column-Wheel Chronograph Mechanism for smoother chronograph functionality. Tested by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), the chronograph is a certified Master Chronometer, underscoring Omega’s commitment to excellence.

Straps

The 21 mm lug width of the Speedmaster Racing offers a versatile range of options for swapping out the stainless steel bracelet. This size accommodates Omega’s beautifully crafted leather straps, which offer a refined look or a NATO strap for a more Bond-inspired feel. 

The stainless steel bracelet features a precisely engineered clasp with a comfort setting, allowing for easy adjustments to ensure a perfect fit. On the other hand, the leather strap, with its alligator leather front and calfskin underside, provides both elegance and comfort. It is secured with a sophisticated folding clasp, completing the watch’s versatile and luxurious appeal.

Most Popular Omega Speedmaster Racing Models

From once being overshadowed within the Speedmaster family to now standing as a prized timepiece, the Omega Speedmaster Racing catalog has come full circle and now flourishes with variety. 

Offering a wide array of models and color combinations, this collection presents something for every watch enthusiast. Here are five of the most popular Omega Speedmaster Racing models to explore.

Omega Speedmaster Racing Chronograph 44.25mm (ref. 329.30.44.51.01.001)

For those just entering the world of the Speedmaster or looking to expand their Omega collection, the iconic 2017 black-and-white dial Speedmaster Racing is a top choice. With an uncluttered design, this model offers excellent legibility. 

The 3 o’clock subdial handles both minute and hour tracking, leaving ample room for the date window and clear reminders of the Co-Axial escapement and Master Chronometer certification. This watch embodies a cool, classic style and serves as an ideal entry point into the Racing family.

Omega Speedmaster Racing Co-Axial Chronometer Chronograph White Dial 44.25mm (ref. 329.33.44.51.04.001)

If you’re looking to stand out from the crowd and already own plenty of black dials, the 2017 white dial Speedmaster Racing might be the one for you. With a stunning white matte finish, bright orange accents on the Speedmaster logo and the chronograph hand’s tip, and a refined leather strap, this watch is a unique twist on the classic. 

While the Moonwatch only introduced a white dial recently, the Racing variant has been confidently showcasing its crisp, distinctive look for years—just waiting to make its way to your wrist.

Omega Speedmaster Super Racing (ref. 329.30.44.51.01.003)

For the seasoned collector seeking a piece of Omega history, the 2023 Omega Speedmaster Super Racing is a true gem. Paying homage to the 2013 Seamaster Aqua Terra >15’000 GAUSS, this model boasts a striking black honeycomb-textured dial with bold yellow accents on both the dial and bezel, giving it a distinct and dynamic presence. 

The yellow lume and the black-and-yellow hand on the 9 o’clock subdial add extra flair, while the watch comes with a versatile stainless steel bracelet and a NATO strap for a sportier look. Powered by the Caliber 9920, it features Omega’s innovative Spirate System, delivering remarkable precision with an accuracy of 0 to +2 seconds per day. With intricate details and an impeccable build, this timepiece is as much a joy to behold as it is to own.

Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer (ref. 329.32.44.51.01.001)

In 2017, Omega introduced a Speedmaster Racing model that embraces its racing heritage with an invigorating update. This black dial variant steps away from the traditional black-and-white Speedmaster look, adding vibrant orange accents to the hands, hour markers, and chronograph tip. 

These bold pops of color bring the racing spirit to the forefront, making it a fitting tribute to Omega’s motorsport roots. Complementing the dial, a matching black-and-orange racing strap ties the design together, capturing the essence of speed and precision in a fresh, visually compelling package. This model stands as a dynamic and engaging addition to the Speedmaster Racing Chronograph lineup.

Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer Sedna Gold (ref. 329.53.44.51.03.001)

No list of standout Speedmaster Racing models would be complete without highlighting the extravagant Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronograph in Sedna Gold. This luxurious offering from the 2017 collection is truly a stunning timepiece. 

The 18k Sedna Gold case pairs beautifully with the ceramic blue tachymeter bezel, creating a striking contrast. The sun-brushed blue dial, adorned with gold accents, further enhances its elegance, while the blue alligator leather strap adds a touch of sophistication. This watch represents the pinnacle of racing luxury and is an impressive addition to any collection, combining refined craftsmanship with a bold racing spirit.

Should You Buy An Omega Speedmaster Racing?

I firmly believe there are no rules in watch collecting. The Omega Speedmaster Racing is crafted for those eager to push the limits of velocity—a perfect tool for measuring what can’t be calculated without the right equipment. But what if you’re not into racing? Does that exclude you from enjoying this watch’s purpose? Absolutely not. 

Owning a Speedmaster Racing means possessing a piece of history. By choosing this watch, you breathe new life into a model that was once overlooked due to the moonshot of fate—quite literally. With various options to choose from, there’s no reason not to step away from the classic and acquire one of the most beautiful toolwatches in history.

Omega Speedmaster Racing Pricing & Availability

The Omega Speedmaster Racing Chronograph retails for $9,200 for the leather strap variant and $9,600 for the model with the steel bracelet. In the pre-owned market, these watches typically sell for between $5,500 and $6,500.

The Omega Speedmaster Super Racing is priced at $11,600, but finding this model in the pre-owned market can be quite challenging. The Omega Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer in Sedna Gold retails for $31,700 and is available in the pre-owned market for around $19,000.

All of these watches can be purchased at Exquisite Timepieces today.

Conclusion

Omega has revived this original brainchild, lifting it from obscurity and restoring it to a prominence that rivals the models that once overshadowed it. The Speedmaster Racing is now celebrated alongside its iconic sibling, proving that it’s every bit as relevant in the watch world as the Moonwatch.

Okay, fellow watch nerds. A question. What is the one type of watch we all must have in our collections? Some of you may have said a beefy diver. Others a sleek chronograph. Maybe you love an elegant dress watch or a cool-as-hell tourbillon. 

Think in more general terms. What we all need is a GADA watch. A timepiece that looks and feels great that we can wear with almost any outfit to almost any occasion. The type of watch that suits your GADA needs may differ from mine, but I would like to suggest a Grand Seiko reference.

You may be thinking, “Grand Seiko does dress watches, I rarely wear a suit”. Well, as it turns out, the esteemed Japanese brand does some terrific sport watches, too. One of them is the SBGN021. 

This quartz movement GMT timepiece has the stunning design, reliability, and accuracy you’d expect from Grand Seiko in a watch you could wear every day, no matter where you are headed. Let’s take a look at this GS masterpiece.

History

The beginning of the SBGN021 story is 2018, when Grand Seiko introduced the caliber 9F86 movement, the brand’s first quartz GMT. From that time on, Grand Seiko has used the movement in an ever-growing lineup of sport watches. 

In 2021, GS added three stunning GMTs to the sport collection, one of which was the SBGN021. The release of these watches celebrated the 140th anniversary of the brand, and they certainly went all out in creating a watch that can hold its own with any brand’s GMT.

With the clean lines typical of Grand Seiko and the incredible accuracy of quartz, along with the cool factor of a GMT function, this is truly a watch that would be a favorite in anyone’s stable.

Case

The 40 mm round stainless steel case features Grand Seiko’s trademark mix of brushing and Zaratsu polishing for a look that really pops and catches the light beautifully. The size works well on a variety of wrists. 

40 mm is right in the wheelhouse for my 7.25-inch wrist. The short tapered lugs put the lug-to-lug at just 46.7 mm, so the watch wears a bit smaller than a typical 40 mm case and works well on smaller wrists. 

As expected with a GMT, the case is on the thick side at 13.7 mm, but you won’t likely be wearing this with dress shirts or suits, and the thickness nicely balances the other case dimensions.

The 24-hour bezel is scratch-resistant ceramic in a deep blue that pairs well with the dial. The screw-down solid case back, along with the screw-down crown, gives it a robust 200 meters of water resistance. 

You probably don’t want to wear this watch while searching for Davy Jones’ locker, but you can certainly swim with it. The case is also anti-magnetic to 200 gauss, which is not a bad feature to have. 

The crown sits at the 4 o’clock position. Not everyone likes the asymmetry, but with the date window in the same position, the look is unique and pretty symmetrical. The crown is slightly recessed, which gives the case a narrower look. It’s the kind of sleek design we’ve come to expect from Grand Seiko.

The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protrudes slightly above the dial. This adds a bit of thickness but also contributes to the clean lines. Naturally, it is anti-reflective coated, which will let you take a good look at the stunning dial. 

Dial

Grand Seiko has a sterling reputation for many things. Perhaps what they are best known for is their dials. The colors, the textures, the complementary handsets, and the way they react to light rank the beauty of their dials high among the world’s best.

You can include the SBGN021 in that esteemed group. The deep blue dial matches that bezel and has an incredible sunburst pattern with lines radiating from the center to the edges. It reminds me of the Seiko Presage Cocktail time dials. 

In low light, you see a pretty shade of blue, but when the light hits the dial, the sunburst pops like the first rays of daylight peeking over the horizon. You may find that you have trouble taking your eyes off it. I know I do.

Sitting under the crystal at the edge of the dial is a two-tone deep and light blue day/night display. Ticks sit at the hour marks, and there are ticks for each minute on the rehaut. The 12 o’clock index is an inverted trapezoid, and there are batons at the other hours. Each of the indices has three horizontal segments, with the center filled with Grand Seiko’s Lumibrite for easy viewing at night. 

The polished stainless-steel hands match the indices and complement the dial. The hour and minute hands have Lumibrite inserts. The GMT hand is a light blue arrow with Lumibrite and matches the letters “GMT” at six o’clock. 

Sitting at 12 is the trademark Grand Seiko logo and name. The 4 o’clock date window is a subtle black numeral on a white background, so it’s easy to see without drawing attention away from the gorgeous dial. 

The dial gives the watch the sporty feel you would expect from a GMT but has an elegance more akin to a dress watch. 

Movement

The SBGN021 is powered by Grand Seiko’s in-house 9F86 quartz GMT movement. Yes, as horological enthusiasts, we tend to revere automatic movements, but don’t be so quick to dismiss this one. The SBGN021 is accurate to +/- 10 seconds per year. You won’t be adjusting the time often at all with this movement.

Then, there is the convenience of a quartz. No winding. You could put your watch in a case for a week, a month, or even a year, and it will still keep accurate time. 

The GMT function can come in handy if you travel across time zones frequently or do business with people in other parts of the country or world. 

Even if that’s not the case, consider the cool factor. I love complications on watches. Having additional functions on my wrist without having to go the smartwatch route is appealing, and the GMT function is one of my favorites.

The SBGN021 is a true GMT, meaning that you can set just the hour hand to a new time zone while leaving the GMT set to home time. The ease of use and convenience make this a good watch for those just beginning to expand their collections. 

Straps

The three-link stainless-steel bracelet is classic and sporty. It closes with a three-fold clasp. The end links have an integrated look as they sit flush against the case. This adds to the clean and elegant design. The bracelet is mostly brushed but has polished facets for a bit of contrast. 

The bracelet has a slight taper that makes it comfortable as it conforms to the wrist. With the bracelet, this timepiece weighs 170 grams. 

That’s not light, but it’s not cumbersome either, and you will quickly get used to it if you are accustomed to lighter watches. The adjustment is done using screws, and there is no micro-adjustment. However, there are half links to help get a good fit.  

The 20 mm lugs are drilled, so if you ever want to change the bracelet, it will be easy to do. Honestly, the watch looks great as is.

On-Wrist Experience

Being a sporty GADA watch, you can wear the SBGN021 with nearly any kind of outfit. Obviously, it won’t pair with anything formal, but not many of us still wear suits. Although it’s a casual timepiece, it can class up a variety of outfits from shorts and a t-shirt to chinos and a polo shirt.

The blue is a dark shade which works as a neutral color. The dial and bezel will likely coordinate with at least 90% of your wardrobe. Cool colors like greens and blues, or hot ones like reds, oranges, and yellows, can all style nicely with this watch. Earthtones look great with the blue dial, too.

The 40 mm case will suit a wide variety of wrists, from small to even many on the large side. It’s a bit hefty but not super heavy due to the quartz movement, and with the bracelet and narrow lug-to-lug, it’s comfortable to wear on a daily basis. I find the SBGN021 feels as good as any watch in my collection.

If you are a traveler, this is the watch you want to hit the road with. The GMT function is incredibly useful, as is the accurate timekeeping, and the style will work with whatever you wear in any kind of climate. The quartz accuracy will make sure you are on time for any work or play events.

Full disclosure: I don’t own one of these beauties, but I have had the pleasure of trying one several times, and it is high on my list of future purchases. 

Price & Availability

Now that you are aware of how good a watch the SBGN021 is, perhaps you’re ready to try one on and buy it. They are readily available at any Grand Seiko boutique or from the brand’s website. 

You can also get one from an authorized dealer, such as Exquisite Timepieces. If you’re in the neighborhood, stop by our Naples, FL boutique to try one on and chat with the friendly sales staff. 

You can also buy one on Exquisite Timepieces with free shipping in the U.S. As an AD, we offer the Grand Seiko a 5-year warranty. This is one of Grand Seiko’s more affordable watches at just $4,550 retail. That’s a lot of bang for your buck.

Should you decide to go the pre-owned route, you can grab a used SBGN021 for between $3,800 and $4,300.

Conclusion

Every watch enthusiast needs a true GADA watch. You need that dependable timepiece that you can wear day after day on your mundane and amazing adventures. There are many options out there, but the Grand Seiko SBGN021 deserves serious consideration. 

Sporty elegance with accuracy, reliability, along with the prestige of the Grand Seiko name, make this a watch you need to check out. Be a globetrotter, or just dress like one.

As a commemorative gesture to the 44GS, which coined the Grand Seiko style, the watchmaker created the SBGJ255. The style of this watch definitely holds up to the status of a 55th anniversary and makes for a clean-looking statement piece.

You’ll find that the SBGJ255 features the same original 44GS look. However, it also comes with many unique design choices that make it stand out on its own. The watch was released in 2022, but it’ll be talked about for many years to come due to what it represents.

Choosing a luxury watch comes with several questions, but getting into the details of the components can help guide the decision-making process. In this article, you’ll learn everything you need to know about the Grand Seiko SBGJ255.

An Iconic Addition to the 44GS Lineage

Although the SBGJ225 was released back in 2022, interest in the watch still stands strong to this day. It features the notable aspects of the original Grand Seiko 44GS from 1967, with modern elements that’ll make you take a second look.

I respect the design choices that went into this 55th-anniversary limited edition, but what sold me was the fact it’s part of the Heritage collection. The historical significance on top of the simplistic design choices is perfect from my standpoint.

Considering it’s a limited edition, many enthusiasts are happy to get their hands on one. Even though you can find the SBGJ255 online, that doesn’t mean you should wait too long to shop around. This watch itself may not have a long history on the market, but the callback to the 1967 44GS inevitably makes it a timeless addition to the GS lineup.

Looking Into the Case

With a 40mm diameter, the case on this watch features a pretty standard size that looks great on most average wrist sizes. I’m always thankful for an open case back, as looking at the internal movement going to work is a beautiful sight to see. It’s important to note that the watch takes aspects from the 44GS style, but it isn’t an identical model or reissue.

I appreciate the case’s nice shine due to the Zaratsu polishing. For a little contrast, Grand Seiko always makes sure to add a little variation, which can be seen in the hints of brushed titanium.

A few other classic elements of this watch include a curved sideline, a polished bezel, and dual-curved sapphire crystal. The flat surface of the case is free of distortion. The small details make me take a deeper look, and the case delivers a uniformity that’s easy to marvel at.

The watch may be fitting for many different people, but the sizable nature of the case can feel more prominent from any angle. For me, this isn’t so much a deal breaker, but understandably, many people might not prefer a bulkier case.

I was a bit surprised by the half-recessed crown and their choice of a reverse-slanted bezel. It isn’t something I expected, but I love that Grand Seiko took this route. It makes for a much more uniform and pristine look, among other features. Some say that the case is thick and bulky, and although this is true to some degree, I can’t really say it’s a deal breaker. Maybe for some, but the case size blends perfectly with all of the surrounding features from my point of view.

Dialing In on the Details

At a glance, the dial may seem relatively simple, but there’s a surprising amount of detail put into every aspect of it. I have always loved a good colorway, but I’m really looking for how that color looks in the dial texture. The SBGJ255 comes with a vertical grain texture that looks great from every angle, and it’s known to be inspired by shōji screens.

The LumiBrite hands and hour markers make sure you can read the time in all light conditions, and the hands feature the same polish as the case. I love the fact it offers a subtle sparkle in the light but doesn’t come off too flashy at all. 

Little color accents are another detail that I look for in a GS watch. The Grand Seiko logo on the dial comes in a light blue, and this same color is seen in the “GMT” text, inner 24-hour markers, and the GMT hand as well.

Even with all of these minor details, I would still consider the dial to be pretty minimalist. Grand Seiko comes with a wide variety of timepieces, but I generally prefer when they take a simpler approach to the design. There’s a certain harmony found in every GS watch, and the SBGJ255 is a leading example of how they execute this with precision.

I’m not particularly interested in blue colorways, but the hints of blue against the white dial contrast the overall simplicity. You can easily read the watch in standard or military time, and the GMT hand makes it easy to track changing time zones.

The Movement That Makes the SBGJ255 Tick

Part of what has made Grand Seiko such a sought-after watchmaker over time is their dedication to in-house movements. The Caliber 9S86 is what puts this watch in motion. It’s a high-frequency movement that ticks at 36,000 vibrations per hour (vph). This creates an extremely smooth motion for the seconds hand on top of impressive accuracy.

I’m easily impressed when it comes to GS movements, as their engineering is amazing across the board. What really gets me is watching the movement go to work as every finite component blends perfectly with the next. 

Wearers get the benefit of a 55-hour power reserve. For those who don’t know, the power reserve is a part of the watch’s reliable performance between windings. The mean daily rate is +5 to -3 seconds per day, and most people would consider this level of accuracy pretty exceptional.

I get pretty excited about the GMT functionality, as I don’t have a watch in my collection that has this feature. It allows for independent adjustment of the hour hand without affecting the flow of the seconds hand. For those who travel frequently, this can be a nice feature to make sure the watch is always on time.

If you get a chance to look closely, you’ll notice the titanium rotor of the movement has a gold tone to it. This comes from a special anodic oxidation process, giving the rotor a very distinct look.

It’s also important to note that the rotor is skeletonized, which gives you a better view of the decorated movement below it. Once I understood the collaborative performance features of this watch, I had to try it for myself. I’m not necessarily prone to a specific movement, but I do love the amount of engineering, design, and detail that can be marveled at any time you want.

Strap Qualities

I can see how the strap might look pretty basic to most people, but it’s more about the overall qualities that make it stand out. First and foremost, they always sell me on the high-intensity titanium. I’ll always prefer that over stainless steel, as it’s sturdy yet lightweight and undoubtedly beautiful.

Featuring a 19mm band width, it’ll feel pretty uniform around the wrist, and it tapers a bit down to 18mm. This helps to maintain proportion to the case so that one component isn’t taking the spotlight over another. Cohesiveness is a norm in Grand Seiko watches, but you can’t really tell until you try it on for yourself.

When I was able to put on the SBGJ255, it was immediately apparent that it was a great fit. At least for me, I didn’t feel like any adjustments needed to be made. The band is also equipped with screw links, as well as half links for proper sizing. However, a slight downside is that it doesn’t come built with micro-adjustments.

Aside from that, the folding clasp feels sturdy and secure, and it’s built with a seamless safety push-button release. If you simply aren’t a fan of the strap, you can easily swap it out, thanks to the drilled lugs. 

Finding replacement straps for GS watches seems to be a common challenge for me, but I rarely ever want to change in the first place. If you want the true Grand Seiko experience, I think it’s important to keep all of the original components.

Part of the classic look of the strap stems from their choice of polished intermediate links. This contrasts the primary brushed look of the strap, adding a little shine around your entire wrist. Of course, this isn’t overbearing, as Grand Seiko knows exactly how to accent a luxury watch.

How it Feels on the Wrist

Some of this will come down to personal preference, but in my opinion, it’s pretty easy to describe how this watch feels on the wrist. For me, it’s an immediate everyday wear. I can see how the white dial could be reserved for certain occasions, but it isn’t flashy enough to distract from casual outfits.

Although the watch dimensions are fitting for a variety of wrist sizes, it’s still optimal for a particular range. Those who have 6 to 7.5” wrists will have the best experience with the SBGJ255. Once again, with adjustments and a little wiggle room over 7.5”, the timepiece is more than suitable for many common wrist sizes.

I will agree that the thickness of the watch is noticeable. It isn’t something that can be ignored exactly, but it isn’t a detail that affects everyday wear. The watch easily hides behind my wrist cuffs and never catches on the edges due to its dimensions.

In the past, I was actually more inclined to swap straps out for leather, but polished titanium is starting to change that preference. There was a time when I would have thought this watch was too flashy. Now that I have a better understanding of Grand Seiko and their design process, I have immense appreciation for their stance on titanium.

Blending practical functionality and high-end beauty, the SBGJ255 can quickly become your new family heirloom. From my standpoint, the watch is more than viable for professional and casual settings. Overall, the day-to-day experience of wearing the SBGJ255 is more than comfortable and fashionable, all in one.

Pricing and Availability

Any Grand Seiko watch is bound to come with a sizable price tag, but they do range from affordable to expensive. Regarding the SBGJ255, I feel this watch hits a sweet spot somewhere in the middle. You can find the timepiece retailed at $8,500. On the other hand, you can look into pre-owned pricing, which can range from $4,000 to $7,500, depending on various factors.

When you compare this to other GS watches and luxury watches from other brands, the asking price is more than understandable. For me, my price cap is usually $10,000, as that’s a bit hard for me to warrant, but anything underneath that is more than enough.

I plan on keeping mine for quite a long time, considering the fact it’s a limited edition. With these types of watches, you never know how much harder they’ll be able to find as time goes on. Since the SBGJ255 is only a few years old at this point, it’s still pretty easy to source online.

Shopping online is always easy to do, but finding reputable watchmakers and retailers is a different story. The Grand Seiko name speaks for itself, but you want to find a retailer that has experience with the brand and the industry as a whole.

If you’re looking for a retailer that can exceed your expectations, working with Exquisite Timepieces is the only back-end support you need. Not only can you find the SBGJ255 in all its glory, but we will walk you through all of your questions and concerns. Buying a GS watch should be considered a lifelong commitment; finding a retailer that understands this is crucial.

Final thoughts

Grand Seiko may have a long line of watches and collections, but you don’t want to miss out on the SBGJ255 55th anniversary limited edition. These aren’t always common, and I’d argue this watch specifically is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. GS leans heavily into its heritage, and it can be seen and felt in every detail of the SBGJ255.

Don’t hesitate to reach out to us at Exquisite Timepieces. Whether you have questions regarding the SBGJ255 or another design, we’re more than happy to provide the guidance you’re looking for.