Category: News

Modern Hamilton watches are “Swiss Made”, with headquarters and production in Bienne, Switzerland, but the company was “Born in the U.S.A.” in Lancaster, PA, in 1892. For over 70 years, Hamilton was an American brand known for robust and accurate watches worn by the country’s railroad workers, aviators, soldiers, sailors, and even musicians and movie stars, including “The King of Rock and Roll”, Elvis Presley.

During that same period, a new genre of music emerged from African American communities in the Deep South—jazz. Characterized by improvisation, smooth sounds, and upbeat rhythms, jazz channeled the fresh, frenetic energy of a nation coming into its own in the 20^th Century and adapting to a leading role on the world stage.

Hamilton sought to capture the spirit of jazz with the launch of the Jazzmaster Lord Hamilton Chronograph in 1967. Since then, the Jazzmaster line has evolved into the company’s largest collection by fusing classic designs with modern materials and designs to produce contemporary timepieces that exude refinement and sophistication—not unlike jazz itself.

In this review, I’ll discuss 15 top Jazzmaster models and offer guidance on which one might best suit your needs and lifestyle.

About Hamilton Jazzmaster Watches

Hamilton is best known for its military watches (“Khaki” collections) and prolific product placement pieces in movies and television, such as the “Ventura” and the Khaki Field “Murph”. 

Hamilton created the Jazzmaster collection by mixing mid-century and contemporary design cues, and it has grown to over 175 references that feature modern aesthetics, materials, movements (automatic and quartz available), and complications. Jazzmaster models lean more toward refined dress models than sport watches. 

However, there are Jazzmaster chronographs, and even some of the dressier references have some tool watch touches such as numbered bezels and enhanced water resistance that create a sporty, “do everything” vibe that fits right in at the concert hall or clubhouse.

Which Hamilton Jazzmaster Watch is Right for You

If you’re looking for a Hamilton watch rugged enough for outdoor and water activities, the Jazzmaster family will have fewer options for you to choose from than the brand’s Khaki collections. 

But let’s say you’ve already got sport and tool watches covered and want to add something more unique and eye-catching for a formal occasion or night out on the town. If that’s the case, then you will discover a plethora of possibilities in the Jazzmaster collection. If you want a little of both, there are sportier Jazzmasters that fit everyday work and casual needs. 

With over 175 references in the collection, there is a Jazzmaster that will suit nearly every lifestyle at prices that are among the best in the entry-level luxury category.

The 15 Best Hamilton Jazzmaster Watches

Here are micro-reviews of 15 top Hamilton Jazzmaster watches that demonstrate the broad range of offerings in this collection:

Hamilton Jazzmaster Auto (ref. H32475730)

The classic styling of a black dial and black leather strap make the Jazzmaster Auto a great choice for both dress and everyday office wear. The 40 mm diameter mixed polished and brushed finished stainless steel case fits a wide variety of wrists, and the 11mm thickness allows it to slide neatly beneath a shirt cuff. There are applied lumed silver color dagger indices and hour and minutes hands. 

The needle seconds hand reaches the silver seconds track and is lined with black indices that, fittingly, look like piano keys. There is a discrete date window at 6 ‘o’clock. Inside is the 80-hour power reserve Hamilton Caliber H-10 featuring an antimagnetic Nivachron™ hairspring and fine finishing touches showcased by a sapphire case back. 

The Jazzmaster Auto only has 50m of water resistance, but that should be more than enough to handle a splash of water every now and then. Retail Price: $945 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Auto Chrono (ref. H36606130)

The Jazzmaster Performer Auto Chrono is a descendant of the “patriarch” Jazzmaster, the Lord Hamilton Chronograph. The 42 mm sapphire sandwich stainless steel case is mostly brushed, but polished accents include the elongated pushers, crown, and chamfered edges of the 22 mm width lugs. 

The case is paired with an all-brushed stainless steel bracelet with a butterfly clasp. The dial is black with a silver border minutes track and three subdials at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. Indices are applied and lumed, and the hours and minutes hands are sword-shaped with an arrowhead-tipped timings seconds hand. 

The watch is powered by the Hamilton Calibre H-31 movement, which has a 60-hour power reserve. The screw-down crown assists in providing a respectable 100-meter of water resistance. 

This is a chronometer with a bit of flair and would fit a wide variety of daily needs, including dress occasions—a dash of Daytona, reverse “Panda” vibe without the forever wait and exorbitant price. Retail Price: $2,245

Hamilton Jazzmaster Regulator Cinema (ref. H42605731)

The Jazzmaster Regulator Cinema salutes Hamilton’s regular appearance in movies with a statement piece that was gifted to presenters and honorees at the 10^th Hamilton Behind the Camera Awards in 2018. 

The 42 mm size stainless steel case is 12.8 mm thick, has mixed brushed and polished finishing, a lug width of 22 mm, and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. It is paired with a leather deployant strap and a Hamilton-signed double pusher clasp. 

The dial has a black textured finish and two subdials designed to look and function like spoked movie reels, employing a rotating red arrow to indicate hours and seconds. There is a long traditional minutes hand. 

The words “Hamilton Automatic” are embedded in a strip of film in the upper right. All the dial elements are integrated and feature contrasting black, red, silver, white, and gray. On the back is a sapphire display caseback with a flowing ribbon of movie film. Hurray for Hollywood! Hurray for Hamilton! Retail Price: $1,295 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Chrono Quartz (ref. H32612131)

The Jazzmaster Chrono Quartz is another great all-occasion watch for the person who wants both “set it and forget it” and elapsed timing capabilities. The case is 42 mm diameter, 12 mm thick stainless steel with mixed brushed and polished finishing and paired with a butterfly clasp, 22 mm width mixed finished stainless steel bracelet with integrated “H-shaped” central links that give a stylish overlapping effect. 

The dial is black with lumed dagger indices except for an Arabic numeral 12. The hour and minutes hands are lumed and Dauphine-style, and there is a needle timing seconds hand. Subdials are at 10, 2, and 6 and show timing 30 timing minutes, 1/10 seconds, and running seconds, respectively. 

There is a date complication at 4 o’clock. The pushers are elongated for comfort and easy use, and the crown is pull/push, not screw down, but water resistance is still 100m. The watch is powered by the ETA Caliber 251.74 quartz movement. Retail Price: $945 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Auto Rose Gold (ref. H36225770)

The Jazzmaster Performer performs true to the line’s mission of combining elegant styling with sporty touches and extended water resistance. This one is unique in that the 38mm diameter, 11.5mm thick, 18 mm lug width case is rose gold PVD coated stainless steel for an upscale look. It is mostly brushed but has a polished, chamfered edge on the lugs and a screw-down, signed crown. The bezel is black with white Arabic numerals. 

The dial is off-white with only a logo and minimal script, leaving it uncluttered and legible. The indices, Dauphine hour and minutes hands, and the needle seconds hand are all gold colored. A display caseback showcases the high-performing and beautifully finished Hamilton Calibre H-10 no-date, 80-hour power reserve, 21,600 bph movement. The high-quality leather perforated racing strap with pin buckle gives it an extra sport touch. Retail Price: $1,145 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Thinline Special Edition (ref. H38421130)

The Jazzmaster Thinline Special Edition is a quartz movement, movie-themed watch inspired by the movie The Wandering Earth II, directed by Frant Gwo and based on a novel by Chinese science fiction writer Liu Cixin. 

It has a jet-black matte finish dial with an impressed planetary design and lumed, red hour and minutes hand and non-lumped small seconds hand at 6 o’clock. Within the small seconds subdial is the printed Hamilton name and logo. The streamlined stainless steel case is only 7.35 mm thick and 40 mm in diameter with 20 mm wide lugs. 

The closed caseback is engraved with the same planetary design as the dial and a “G” for the film’s director Gwo. It has a stainless steel butterfly clasp bracelet with mixed brushed and polished overlapping links. This quartz watch is definitely more a specialty piece than for everyday wear, and it might appeal to fans of both sci-fi and space exploration. Retail Price: $695 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart Auto (ref. H32675540)

This Jazzmaster has an “open heart”, a cutout in the dial that allows a view of the watch’s mechanism. Such “open access” watches are usually associated with dress watches, so naturally the Jazzmaster collection has many of these. 

This reference features a gradient dial that transitions from almost black in the periphery to a “smoky blue” center. Open heart areas are located between 7 and 8 o’clock and from 11 to 4 o’clock. It has lumed dagger indices and hour and minutes hands and an arrowhead tip on the short, central end of the needle seconds hand. 

The case is 40mm stainless steel with mixed brushed and polished finishing and is only 11mm thick. There is a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and display caseback. The movement is the no-date Hamilton H-10 with an 80-hour power reserve. The strap is 18mm in width, brown cow leather, with a pin buckle clasp. With only 50 m of water resistance, this works better with a tux than a tee. Retail Price: $1,075 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Face 2 Face III (ref. H32876550)

Calling someone “two-faced” isn’t normally a compliment, but in the case of the Jazzmaster Face 2 Face III, it is. This limited edition of 999 pieces is one of the most intriguing—and at 17.6 mm, probably also one of the thickest—chronographs out there. 

On one side of the 44 mm diameter, 22 mm lug width stainless steel case is a day-date at 3 o’clock chronograph, with a partial skeletonization showing the rotating date wheel. The flip side showcases the Hamilton H-41 movement through a display caseback and has both a tachymeter and pulsometer. 

One changes dial faces by rotating the entire case using two “hinges” at 9 and 3 o’clock. The main dial is black with subdials at 12, 9, and 6 with differing sizes, colors (the bottom subdial is blue) , and textures, creating a very unique and eye-pleasing aesthetic, an effect enhanced by the brown leather strap with blue stitching. Yes, it’s a “two-faced” and “complicated” watch—but in a good way. Retail Price: $2,995 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Viewmatic Auto (ref. H32715131)

The Viewmatic Auto is a 44 mm case diameter dress watch but is only 10.4 mm thick. If you have a thicker wrist and 38 or 40 mm diameter watches look disproportional, then this one has to be on your short list. The dial is a do-it-all black and is very balanced and uncluttered, with simple “Hamilton” branding on the top half and “automatic” on the bottom, a minute track near the rehaut, and a small date window at 3 o’clock. 

The dagger shaped indices and hour and minutes hands have enough lume to get by, but remember, it’s more a dress watch, not a sports one. Sapphire is used on the front crystal and display caseback which provides a view of the 28,800 bph, 38 hour power reserve ETA 2824-2. It’s a nice choice for the person who glances down at their ample wrist and says, “I’m gonna need a bigger watch.” Retail Price: $895.00 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Thinline Auto (ref. H38525771)

Most Jazzmaster straps and bracelets can be swapped out easily thanks to Hamilton’s “EasyClick” quick-release system. The Jazzmaster Thinline Auto has a deep, burgundy red dial and black leather strap, making it a dressy piece for formal occasions but with enough pop of color to add some interest and flair. 

With a variety of available dial and strap colors and bracelet types, one could easily transform a Thinline Auto to work in a more casual or work setting as well. The stainless steel case measures in at 40mm, and true to its name, is a wafer thin 8.45 mm. 

A date window is discreetly dropped at the 6 o’clock position. Turn over the Thinline Auto, and a sapphire display back provides a view of the ETA Caliber 2892-A2 movement working away at 28,800 bph with a power reserve of 42 hours. Classy, contemporary—pure Jazzmaster. Retail Price: $945 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Seaview Day Date Quartz (ref. H37551141)

The Jazzmaster Seaview Day Date has 100 meters of water resistance with a screw-down crown and neatly bridges the gap between the line’s dressier models and Hamilton’s “outdoorsy” Khaki family. 

The sporty 42 mm diameter stainless steel case is 10.85 mm thick and has a unidirectional timing bezel marked with simple lines and no numerals. The dial and bezel are a matching deep sea blue. The crown is signed with a silver “H” against a blue background. The Dauphine hours and minutes hands and “arrowhead” indices have adequate lume but not as much as true dive watches. 

True to the name, there are day and date windows at 3 o’clock. The bracelet is 3-link with polished outer links and brushed in the middle, with a butterfly clasp. An ETA quartz movement provides, “set it and forget it” capability, making it both accurate and a commonsense choice for everyday wear and moderate aquatic activities. Retail Price: $745

Hamilton Jazzmaster Gent Quartz (ref. H32411735)

The Hamilton Jazzmaster Gent Quartz could easily qualify as the “little black dress” of the watch world—simple, easy to maintain, affordable, and can be dressed up or down for a wide variety of occasions. 

Its mixed finished, 38 mm diameter, stainless steel case will fit a large range of wrist sizes. Its 8 mm case thickness makes for a light wrist presence and easy slide beneath a cuff. The dial is all black, with a sunburst finish central portion transitioning to a matte finish “step off” and taper downward the periphery. The lumed indices are an interesting and visually pleasing mix of Arabic numerals and arrowheads. 

The minutes track is a mix of variable-length hash marks and Arabic numerals at 5-minute intervals. The only print on the dial is a simple “Hamilton”. There is a quadrangular date window at 3 o’clock. The strap width is 18 mm wide, black leather with white stitching, with a pin buckle. “Sometimes less is more.” Retail Price: $545

Hamilton Jazzmaster Regulator Auto (ref. H42615743)

From the simplicity of the Gent Quartz, we move to the asymmetrical complexity of the dressy, no-date Jazzmaster Regulator Auto, a “tri-dial” design that could be displayed at a museum of modern art. Only the minutes hand is a traditionally central one; the other two are subdials, an hours one in the upper left and a slightly smaller and overlapping seconds one in the lower right. 

With a 42 mm diameter stainless steel case and narrow integrated bezel, there’s plenty of room for all design elements to coexist peacefully. The dial color is a deep rich blue with varying finishes: matte in the main dial, and sunburst and concentric circles in the hour and seconds subdials, respectively. 

The 22m wide strap is black leather with a deployant clasp. As a dress watch, it naturally has a modest 50 meters of water resistance. The engine is the Hamilton Caliber H-12 showcased by a sapphire caseback. Retail Price: $1,275 

Hamilton Jazzmaster GMT Auto (ref. H32695731)

The Jazzmaster GMT Auto has both a jumping “office or caller” GMT hand as well as a city world time ring in the periphery that can be rotated with the extra crown at the 9:30 position. Unlike many sport GMTs, this piece provides similar capabilities in a more refined package consistent with the Jazzmaster family ethos. 

The 42 mm stainless steel case has a thickness of only 11.5 mm, svelte by GMT standards. The dial is black with a subtle sunburst finish that exhibits differing effects and hues in variable light. The red GMT hand provides a nice contrasting pop of red. 

The white 24-hour scale and black-and-white rotating city disc cram in a lot of information, but with sparse print and a discreet date window at 6, the dial still appears relatively uncluttered and legible. It is powered by the 2893-2 movement. Retail Price: $1,295 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Face 2 Face II (ref. H32866781)

The Face 2 Face Auto Chrono is a limited edition of 1,999 pieces that has a lot going on: oval 53 mm x 44 mm stainless steel case, 17.4 mm thickness, and by my count, six complications: day, date, chronograph, tachymetry, telemetry, and pulsometry. 

That means 3 overlapping subdials on the partially skeletonized main watch face, including a ginormous running seconds subdial that takes up almost half of the main dial. This has the same rotating case feature as the aforementioned Face 2 Face III, and on the other side is a sapphire display with a view of the Caliber H-41 movement as well as tachymetry, telemetry, and pulsometry with a sky blue measuring hand. 

There is a 24 mm wide black leather strap with the same sky blue stitching and a folding clasp. This one will garner queries from regular folks and watch enthusiasts alike; the real question is: Will you be able to explain them when asked? Retail Price: $3,995 .

Conclusion

The Jazzmaster ensemble is a reminder from Hamilton of a hip and improvisational, “cool daddy-o” side to their corporate personality that adds complexity and interest to their more famous core collections of military and movie watches. Jazz music might not be for everyone, but chances are there is at least one Hamilton Jazzmaster that is right for you. 

If you’re on the hunt for something truly unique from Grand Seiko, then you’re going to want to hear every detail about the SLGC001. Not only does it harness traditional aspects of GS sports watches, but it’s the first mechanical chronograph from the watchmaker.

There’s plenty to love about this watch, aside from the fact it’s an iconic part of the brand’s history. It hails from a popular collection of GS timepieces that are known for their sporty look, functionality, and undoubted style.

While personal preferences are always important, this watch delivers a charm and functionality that you’ll feel proud to own. Nevertheless, getting a broader look at the watch means breaking down every layer of its engineering to see what truly makes it special.

The Historical Release of the SLGC001

Hailing from the popular Evolution 9 Collection, the SLGC001 marks a new beginning for innovation in Grand Seiko sports watches. Also called the Tentagraph, it was released back in March 2023. The hype has barely simmered down due to the unique nature of the watch, inside and out.

Even from my own perspective, the true innovation behind this watch can’t be seen with just a quick look. The SLGC001 may be a newer addition to the Evolution 9 Collection, but it’s inevitably a leading star due to its mark in GS history.

While some aspects of the watch call back to the original 1967 Grand Seiko style, they’ve blended this with new-age engineering that’s bound to impress. Grand Seiko’s reputation has reached its current status for multiple reasons. 

Part of that is their track record for taking an actionable stance on the engineering that goes into their timekeepers. As they carry many watchmaking traditions, the SLGC001 is a standing example that they always have something new up their sleeve.

A Case Designed for All

The watch features a banana cambering, also known as a curved case, which helps the watch to be more adaptable to thinner and larger wrists. Although adjustments are a common angle to most watches, many people don’t want to have to mess with that too much. I was a bit worried due to my thinner wrists and the rather overhead bulky look in this case. However, I was proven wrong on the first wear, as I could feel the curved design comfortably hug my wrist.

This is something you can only determine after trying it for yourself. Grand Seiko has proven me wrong before, and this 43.2mm case looks and feels great. It finds a good balance with 15.3mm thickness, and it’s important to note that the lug-to-lug is 51.5mm. A few of these measurements may sound large and bulky to some, but certain aspects of the design compensate for this.

You’ll also be happy to know it’s built from high-intensity titanium, which is preferred for its lightweight and trusted durability. Personally, I’ve also always been a fan of the titanium look and feel over stainless steel. The double-domed sapphire crystal ensures a surprising amount of protection. Although it’s built with a beautiful Tachymeter ceramic bezel, I’d say this is what makes the watch seem so bulky.

Don’t get me wrong, I understand the useful functionality, but the white markings on top of a contrasting black bezel make the case seem somewhat large. Once you try it on and look at it from every angle, the watch delivers a much more balanced visual beauty. For what it’s worth, the case is water resistant up to 100 meters. 

It’s also built with a standard screw-down crown and features the popular contrast of brushed and Zaratsu-polished surfaces. More specifically, Grand Seiko’s choice of polished facets with brushed surfaces on the sides of the case makes for an intriguing geometric visual. If you want a stunning visual, don’t forget to check out the case back. I always prefer a see-through case back, and with the SLGC001, you get the special treat of seeing the 9SC5 movement in action.

Between the sapphire crystal, titanium case, and standout bezel, this watch definitely nails the sporty look. Don’t let the seemingly bulky size fool you, as this watch does a near-perfect job of being form-fitting. Of course, micro adjustments help with this, but you’ll learn more about that later on.

The SLGC001’s Finely Textured Dial

You might think the SLGC001’s highlight is merely a deep blue dial, but it’s much more than that up close. Taking inspiration from the night sky over Mt. Iwate, it honestly reminds me of both the night sky after sunset and the surface of the ocean.

Legibility is clearly taken into account here, as the contrasting hands and indices shine bright in day or night-time conditions. This is not only due to their polish but also because of the added Lumibrite for a little glow in the dark. The minute track takes a bit of a back seat on this one, following a railroad-like pattern around the very edge of the dial.

However, it’s important to note that the smaller sub-dials aren’t luminous. This was a smart move if you ask me, as it could have made the watch actually harder to view in low light with too many hands to focus on. While I really appreciate the look of a clean dial, the recessed chronograph subdials are a nice change of pace.

This furthers the textured and dominant look of the dial, with the added benefit of a seconds, 12-hour, and 30-minute counters. To make sure everything fits seamlessly, Grand Seiko has the date window placed succinctly at the 4:30 mark.

Regardless of the many individual yet cohesive components in the dial, all of them feature a uniform color for a solid presence on the wrist. While some people might find the hour hand somewhat bulky, I find it to be a distinguishing feature. It goes along with the sturdy look of the watch and makes it more than easy to read in low light.

An Extremely Impressive In-House Movement

Delivering automatic movement with manual winding, the SLGC001 Tentagraph is built with a Caliber 9SC5 movement. This promises a 72-hour power reserve, making it the longest-running 10-beat chronograph in the watchmaking industry. It’s also an adaptation from the 9SA5 to create a chronograph version without cutting corners on quality.

For another highlight, you can expect +5 to -3 seconds per day under controlled conditions. However, if you look at this as a daily wear, then it’s closer to an accuracy of +8 to -1 seconds. This wouldn’t be any kind of deal breaker for me, but the finite details always matter in luxury watchmaking.

It’s also able to ensure a uniform sync between all chronograph counters thanks to a three-pointed hammer. Coinciding with what you can expect from the Grand Seiko name, this movement is designed in-house. 

Part of what ensures efficient energy transfer and overall accuracy stems from the included overcoil hairspring and dual-impulse escapement. I honestly find it amazing that all of these layers can fit into such a small piece of detailed engineering. It’s something to truly marvel at, considering it’s basically the heart of the watch. It does more than just keep the watch ticking; it guarantees longevity, uniformity, and collaboration between every function.

This all may sound relatively complex to many other movements, but it’s these small details that help make the watch so special. It’s no secret that the craftsmanship that goes into such a movement is outright beautiful. In the same vein, you rarely actually get to appreciate this handy work as it’s commonly hidden inside the case. 

Thanks to the exhibition caseback of the SLGC001, you can get a close look at the impressive nature of its movement. Any time I take this watch off my wrist, the movement always catches my eye from the open case back.

Matching Quality From the Strap

When it comes to the strap, you get the same lightweight durability that’s found in the case. High-intensity titanium and a standard three-fold clasp with a push-button release. The strap lug width on the SLGC001 is 23mm. This is a bit less conventional and might make it more of a challenge to swap it out.

On the other hand, the strap is sized with push pins instead of screws, which helps to make slight adjustments easier. I’m always a fan of titanium, but how it’s brushed or polished can definitely affect how I feel about it. 

The band features a polished beveling on the edges, which I’m very thankful for. In most cases, I feel titanium looks its best with a primarily sanitized look on a timepiece. That’s exactly what we get with the band here, which plays a big role in its ability to be an everyday wear, in my opinion.

With the benefit of half-links and four micro-adjustment holes, most people should be able to get the fit they want. It’s easiest for those with wrists in the 7” to 8” range, and this is due to several design choices. A few leading examples are the possible band adjustments and the slightly curved case. As an added point, I find it more than suitable for my 6.5” wrist, and it doesn’t feel loose by any means.

You may not notice it at first, but the strap is built with a very fine taper included. This means a balanced fit at every angle of your wrist, even distribution, and a proportional feel to the watch. Although it might be a bit harder to find different fitting strap options, the drilled lugs make the process relatively easy. However, from my personal experience with the SLGC001, nothing beats the look of that titanium blend in unison between every component.

The SLGC001 Experience as a Daily Wear

Even if this GS watch is more fitting for larger wrists, I still find myself drawn to it on a daily basis. At first, I thought it was going to look too bulky on me, but it blends in better than expected. The titanium definitely stands out, but there isn’t a lot of shining or mirroring due to the many muted surfaces.

The sloped bezel also helps the watch look somewhat smaller on my wrist. If it weren’t for design choices like this, I probably would have never opted for the watch. It’s an immediate no for me if the case is too bulky, but Grand Seiko made this one work.

Although the SLGC001 definitely looks like it would feel heavy, it’s actually the complete opposite. Once again, this primarily stems from the smart choice of using high-intensity titanium here instead of stainless steel. This also adds to the overall comfort of the watch, which is part of what makes it perfect for wearing on a daily basis.

Grand Seiko did what it could to slim down its design, but the SLGC001 is still somewhat bulky. This means it will visually and physically stand out from the cuffs and won’t be easy to tuck away. It’s a sports watch, which means it tends to look best with more casual fits. Not that it wouldn’t look good in a professional environment, it just wouldn’t blend as well with more formal dress clothes.

It’s understandable why the watch’s size is a big discussion among many, but the dial is always what tends to sell me. The deep blue of this watch and its fine texture are all I need to want to look at it every day. I can’t ignore the sizing either, as it hits a sweet spot that makes it look good and feel comfortable for hours on end. I’m sure most of you can agree on the stunning qualities this watch brings to the table, but that also segues into what the price tag might look like.

Current SLGC001 Cost and Availability

The retail cost of the Grand Seiko SLGC001 is pretty straightforward, as you can easily find it at $13,700. Although it may seem pricey to some, I’d say the cost makes even sense considering what’s included. This isn’t just any other GS timepiece; it’s the first of its kind and a core part of the brand’s history.

If you’re looking to save some money and go the pre-owned route, the cost is around $9,000 to $11,000. When you take into account how new the watch is and what it has to offer, there’s no way around these prices right now. 

The best you can do is choose a retailer who won’t steer you in the wrong direction. Starting with Exquisite Timepieces is the fastest way to get an SLGC001 of your very own. Years of industry experience on top of an updated catalog means you can grab this Grand Seiko with confidence.

Let’s Wrap Up

Being Grand Seiko’s first mechanical chronograph makes this one of their biggest releases in recent years from my standpoint. It’s definitely on the higher end cost-wise, but it’s a timepiece that’ll make an impression for multiple lifetimes.

Whether you’re just looking for a beautiful daily wear or a new family heirloom, the SLGC001 fits the bill. I can see myself putting it in more of a rotation with my collection, but it’s easily my new favorite sports watch. This watch is another example of how Grand Seiko maintains its reputation through a blend of tradition and innovation.

I don’t know about you, but I have a few prerequisites for a good GMT watch. At the end of the day, this is a timepiece I’m likely going to take traveling abroad or across the country, so it needs to be able to withstand the many different types of adventures I get up to during that time. I’m more of a sightseer than a beachbody, so I want something durable and robust that can withstand the hikes, city tours, and anything else I might get up to while traveling.

But for those days when I do want to chill by the pool or at the beach, it needs to be waterproof enough to resist those dips in the water. And finally, whether it’s for when I’m traveling for work or going out for a nice dinner at dusk, I want something that looks good. Not necessarily something overly dressy, but just something that looks the part, something that demands a little bit of attention without feeling overly heavy or over-the-top on my wrist. 

If I had the choice, it would be a watch like the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253. Or at least that’s my opinion after wearing it this past week…

One of Three

Making its debut in 2020, you’re probably wondering why it’s taken me this long to test out the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 properly. Truth be told, I’ve technically test-driven this watch before, but it was a slightly different reference in the same collection – just with a different dial and bezel combo. And although I loved it, I wasn’t in a rush to try on any of the other models in the line-up.

But a lot has changed in the last four years. Not only have I gained a little more financial freedom to enjoy brands like Grand Seiko, but my desire for a GMT watch has also grown. And with so many GMT models out there, it can feel a little daunting to know where to start. 

So, I decided to give the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 a shot. As mentioned, it was released in 2020 as part of the Japanese watchmaker’s Sport Collection. It joined two other references, including a green SBGE257 model and a contrasting blue SBGE255 model (the latter being the reference I tested originally).

At first glance, you’d be forgiven for thinking these watches didn’t offer anything overly new for the brand. At this point in time, Grand Seiko already had several Sports GMT models in their collection, some with Spring Drive movements and others with their famous Hi-Beat caliber. 

But what these new models did do, rather subtly I should add, is apply a more scaled-down design. I’m talking about more compact cases, a new ceramic bezel, and more refined dial layouts. And ever since, they have basically become one of Japan’s most popular GMT watches with a design to rival those like the Rolex GMT-Master and the Tudor GMT.

A Compact, Sporty Case

Those of us with smaller than average wrists and a love of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive technology are often faced with a problem involving case sizes. More accurately, their cases are too big. However, with the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch, we are treated to one of the brand’s most compact sports GMT watches. 

Now if you have a wrist size of five inches, don’t get too excited. This is still a well-sized watch – it’s a GMT Spring Drive, after all – but it has a new set of dimensions that make it a whole lot more wearable compared to previous references in the same collection.

To put it into perspective, the Grand Seiko Sport GMT models with Spring Drive or Hi-Beat movements on offer before the SBGE253 was released were only available with hefty 44mm wide cases. That’s a big ol’ chunk of wrist real estate taken up, especially if you’re like me and you don’t have that much to begin with. 

So, with the release of watches like the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253, lovers of more compact-sized cases are getting to enjoy GS’s aggressive Sport Collection aesthetics with Spring Drive technology – finally!

As for exact dimensions, the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 measures just 40.5mm wide and with a 48.7mm lug to lug. If you count the end links of the bracelet – which annoyingly don’t articulate (but more on that later), the lug to lug is closer to 50mm. 

It’s still a relatively large watch if you have a small wrist, but it’s 40.5mm diameter makes it a whole lot more wearable than before. The beautiful curvature of the case and downward nature of the lugs help with this too.

The thickness of the watch is relatively high at 14.7mm but that’s kind of expected for a Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT. The technology going on inside here, which I’ll go into more detail about shortly, needs the space to work its magic. 

We’ve also, of course, got the additional GMT hand which alone adds a few millimeters of thickness as it stacks on top of the standard hours, minutes, and seconds. The height also includes the double-domed sapphire crystal glass on top, treated with anti-reflective coating on the inner surface, for added legibility and a nice vintage touch.

Unsurprisingly, the finishing of the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch is superb. The entire stainless steel surface is meticulously finished in either Zaratsu polishing or a brushed finish to create a stunning visual complexity. 

The tops of the lugs and the majority of the bracelet have a wonderful horizontal brushed finish while the case sides are treated to the brand’s in-house polishing technique, a highly intricate and demanding process that uses a specialized machine that involves holding the metal against a rotating plate. It’s an extremely precise skill that is done entirely by hand and one that results in an opulent mirror-like finish.

Sitting atop the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch is a ceramic bezel – a new feature for the Sport GMT model at the time of its release. The glossy black ceramic insert is expectedly decorated with white engraved 24-hour markers to be used in conjunction with the GMT complication. 

The bezel has a slight slope to its architecture which again helps to detract from the thickness of the case. We’re also presented with a screw-down crown at 4 o’clock, offering a 200m water resistance and easy ambidextrous use, and a screw-down case back decorated with the Japanese watch brand’s famous lion emblem in relief.

A Glossy Black Dial

I’m so used to reviewing Grand Seiko watches in the Elegance or Heritage collections that are intricately decorated with complex patterns and colors that a dial like the one owned by the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch seems almost impossible to comment on. Truth be told, by Grand Seiko standards, it’s a simple dial. However, it couldn’t – or shouldn’t – be any other way.  

The glossy black display pairs beautifully with the matching black ceramic bezel and becomes the perfect canvas for the mass of functions placed at the center. Sometimes, simplicity is key, especially when you have a lot of information to offer. If this dial was patterned with some of the more fanciful decorations Grand Seiko are known for, it would likely become difficult, if not entirely impossible, to read at a glance.

Although simple in its execution, that’s not to say that the dial of the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch doesn’t involve the brand’s high levels of attention to detail. For starters, the hands and hour markers are all hand-finished to perfection, diamond-polished, and faceted to create a subtle glimmer in light for enhanced legibility. The cardinal hour markers and the hours and minute hands offer further readability with the use of glow in the dark Lumibrite on their tips.

Meanwhile, the GMT hand is finished in a bright red and contrasts against the black backdrop very well. This arrow-tipped hand also features its own Lumibrite insert for added legibility. On the outskirts, the dial offers an inner bezel with another set of 24-hour numerals, but these only display odd numbers. 

It’s another ingenious way of ensuring effortless readability at a glance. There’s also a power reserve indicator between 8 and 9 o’clock and a date window at 4 o’clock. The date window cleverly replaces the hour index and features no silvered border – a design decision that helps to integrate the date complication seamlessly without it becoming overbearing or obtrusive.

A Spring Drive Movement

Housed inside the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch is, as its name suggests, one of GS’s infamous Spring Drive movements. The exact caliber in question is the Caliber 9R66 which was first introduced back in 2006. 

If you’re not familiar with Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive technology, then in short, it’s basically a mechanical movement with some quartz technology included for better levels of accuracy. It has an escapement Seiko calls a “tri-synchro” quartz regulator to ensure its precision but still utilizes the mainspring of a traditional mechanical movement. It’s basically the best of both worlds. 

One of the biggest draws of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive movement is its smooth sweeping seconds hand. I can say this without doubt: the Spring Drive has the smoothest seconds hand I’ve ever seen. It will always fascinate me and it’s something I could watch forever. For its list of specs, the Caliber 9R66 has a 72-hour power reserve, which is neatly displayed on the dial front, and an accuracy of +/-15 seconds a month.

The Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch is also a “true” GMT. What this means is that the hour hand for local time can be independently adjusted, unlike an “office” GMT, where the GMT hand is the only hand independently adjustable. 

In this case, the first position of the crown lets you set the hour hand while the second position adjusts both local time and GMT. This feature is especially useful for travelers who need to keep track of multiple time zones simultaneously and want the flexibility to set their local time without disrupting the watch’s ongoing timekeeping.

A Full Metal Bracelet

Completing the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch is a full stainless steel, three-row link bracelet. It works perfectly with the sporty, almost aggressive personality of the design and has great proportions compared to the case. I do wish it had a bit of a taper, even as little as 2mm, to reduce the sense of bulk, but it still wears incredibly well and feels comfortable and durable.

As I mentioned earlier, the bracelet has mostly brushed surfaces but there are a few Zaratsu polished elements added to the edges of the middle links to echo the finishing of the case sides. It’s wonderfully finished, as you’d expect, and a huge bonus for many is that it’s one of the few Grand Seiko bracelets to come with micro adjustment. 

It has four micro-adjust slots in total, so you’ll easily get the perfect fit. There are also screws to remove and add in links, and several half links included. If you’re less keen on the metal bracelet and would prefer something more casual like a black leather band, thankfully, the 20mm lug width and drilled lugs will make finding alternative watch straps super easy.

On-Wrist Experience

It’s no surprise that with its compact dimensions, curved lugs, easy-to-read dial and exceptional finishing the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch is a joy to wear. In fact, it’s one of the most comfortable GMT sports watches I’ve had the pleasure of trialing. 

I’d recommend this model to anyone with wrists between six and seven-and-a-half inches, but as always, don’t let that deter you if you have wrists smaller or larger. I have five-and-a-half inch wrists, and with a love for oversized statement watches, this still looks incredible on me. 

In the same way, if you have large wrists and you want something super compact, comfortable, and easy to throw on, you’ll equally enjoy the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 watch retails brand-new for $6,200. Just be sure to order yours from an authorized Grand Seiko retailer like Exquisite Timepieces, so you know you’re receiving a genuine watch with all the official paperwork and warranty. Alternatively, you might be able to find the model on second-hand markets for around $4,000 to $4,500 if you’re working with a budget. 

But keep in mind that reference SBGE253 is a permanent addition to Grand Seiko’s Sport Collection, so you may prefer to save up for another few months so you can afford it brand new. It’s a non-limited edition and as far as we’re aware, it’s not going anywhere anytime soon.

Conclusion

So, to go back to my original comments in the introduction, let’s just have a quick run-down as to why I think the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE253 is a hard-to-beat GMT watch. 

Is it durable for those traveling adventures? Yes. Is it capable of withstanding those dips in the pool and ocean? Yes, and more with a 200-meter water resistance. And does it look good? Absolutely. It’s a beautiful watch in more ways than one, offering compact sizing for a comfortable feel, a hand-finished dial and case, and more importantly, an impressively precise Spring Drive movement that will never let you know. What more could you want in a GMT watch?

From a historical standpoint, much of Grand Seiko’s inspiration in their designs comes from nature. However, when it comes to the SBGA489, they decided to take a different approach and honor the artistry and history of the katana.

It’s important to highlight that the SBGA489 is a part of the heritage collection and shares a few similarities with the SBGA491 and SBGA493. Each varies in its own unique aesthetic, highlighting minute and serene details about the Japanese katana.

Part of what made these watches stand out is that they were released as a U.S. exclusive. Today, you’re going to get an in-depth look at the Grand Seiko SBGA489. Featuring a bold dial, luxurious accents, and a design that never disappoints, you’ll want to read what this review has in store.

A Unique Timepiece in Grand Seiko History

While the SBGA489 itself doesn’t have a longstanding history on the market, it’s part of the Heritage Collection for a reason. More specifically, it’s a part of the 44GS design, featuring a recognizable 40mm case and hailed Spring Drive movement.

Nevertheless, the SBGA489 was released in August of 2023, making it a relatively new part of the Heritage Collection. It does a beautiful job of honoring the history of the Japanese Katana, and not only in the colorway alone. With the dial acting as the core of the blade and the surrounding components resembling its sharp edge, I can’t stop thinking it was an excellent design choice.

You could also say that the 44GS case design definitely comes with some Grand Seiko History. Although the SBGA489 was released just last year, the 44GS case specifically has been a pillar of the Grand Seiko name since 1967.

While it still may be relatively new to the market, I’m confident that the SBGA489 will go down as a valuable fan favorite. Between its US exclusivity and a design that stems from a very unique inspiration, I feel like it’s worth keeping an eye on. 

Classic Case Style

Most people are hyperfused about the case size, and understandably so, but that isn’t what draws me in about this design. First, I’m a huge fan of exhibition case backs, and it makes it even better that the watch carries a Spring Drive movement. You can admire the inner engineering of the SBGA489 and appreciate the sharp side profile of the case as well.

The watch features a 40mm case and a relatively flat look with a 12.5mm thickness. Although some people would disagree, I feel the 46.2mm lug-to-lug distance makes the watch accessible to a broad audience. When worn, the SBGA489 does a great job of balancing physical presence and wearability, as well as functionality.

Of course, the case plays only one part in this equation, but it should be a strong focal point for anyone. For those who are a fan of Grand Seiko traditions, you’ll appreciate the classic 44GS case design. 

One of the many reasons this watch draws so much attention is due to the beauty of the Zaratsu finish. The polish is so nice on this watch it might as well be a mirror. Even though it’s a standard in many GS watches, looking at it never gets old.

The sharp-looking edges on top of unwavering polish are a callback to the precision and craftsmanship that goes into the edge of a katana blade. Featuring a double-domed sapphire crystal, you get durability and lasting visual beauty. This was also made possible due to the anti-reflective coating on the sapphire.

This is no diver’s watch, but the case still promises a water resistance of 100m, and I’m personally a huge fan of their choice with the screw-down crown. 

More casual wearers may not care for this kind of detail, but it’s a personal preference that just sells it even more. The functionality of the crown is effortlessly smooth, and I love the amount of control it provides for precision.

I’m also glad they chose to go the classic, simplistic route with the bezel. From my standpoint, a simpler bezel helps the dial stand out more instead of serving as a distraction. It’s a stainless steel case, and although primarily polished, it does feature some brushed surfaces. 

If you like your case to have a simpler, classic look, the SBGA489 won’t disappoint. On another note, one of my biggest challenges is how the watch fits. My reality is that I have slimmer wrists, and although this watch isn’t massive, I was surprised at how it fit so well. I feel the SBGA489 hits a good middle ground for most wearers.

Dial into the Star of the Show

From the color to the design, accents, visual functionality, tradition, neutrality, and many other positive elements, it’s an extremely special dial. Almost anyone who speaks about this watch admits the dial stands out to them in a special way. One that’s bound to draw you in, and you won’t forget its subtle detail any time soon.

The dial on the SBGA489 comes in an ash-gray color, which really shows itself in direct light. I tend to prefer darker dials as I find them easier to blend with a broad range of outfits and occasions. 

Make sure to look at the dial up close, as you might miss the finer details in the texture of the dial. Featuring a stippled, granular texture, it’s a callback to the iron sand that’s used to forge the katana blade.

To be a bit more specific, the dial is inspired by kawagane, which is the hard outer edge of the katana. The indices and hands are Zaratsu-polished, and the seconds hand stands out in a striking gold colorway. 

You’ll find the same color choice in the power reserve indicator as well. A date perfectly blends in with its surroundings. I personally don’t ever notice unless I’m actually looking at it. My eyes are always drawn to the dial texture and gold accents. 

The minute and hour hands are so well polished and slim that the tips nearly disappear when passing the indices. As usual, the GS logo can be found at the top of the dial, also boasting a small gold accent of its own. 

One small detail I’m not really a fan of is the spelled-out ‘Spring Drive’ in white at the bottom. I know it isn’t an unusual placement, but I feel the text and color take away from the dial. To me, the movement of the seconds hand and other details already tell me that it’s a Spring Drive. It isn’t a deal breaker by any means, but it does break away from the beautiful ash-gray color.

You’ll never have a hard time reading the minute track, and the fine lines add to the uniformity of the indices. Some aspects of the dial are pretty classic, but certain design choices from GS made this watch one to remember for the history books.

Looking at the Movement From Both Sides

With a mainspring power source, quartz oscillator, and automatic winding, this watch is built with a Spring Drive Caliber 9R65 in-house movement. Even if you feel like the name of this movement gets thrown around a lot, there are quite a few reasons for this. 

From its hybrid engineering to the fluid automatic movement that’s entirely silent, this isn’t a standard timekeeper. I personally have nothing against the tick of a quartz movement, but the visual quality and functionality of a Spring Drive are stunning.

On a surface level, you get the benefit of automatic winding, but that doesn’t mean manual winding isn’t possible. This is accomplished through the movement’s Magic Level mechanism, a component that was developed back in 1959. Rest assured, this watch delivers a 3-day power reserve and an accuracy of ±1 second daily and ±15 seconds per month.

The movement also comes with 30 jewels, which aren’t for show but functionality, as they help to reduce friction and wear. Of course, this isn’t to say the Spring Drive isn’t beautiful, as I love staring at the case back and its inner workings.

An easy-to-read date display rests at 3 o’clock, and the overall smooth glide of a Spring Drive adds to the high-end look of the SBGA489. I understand personal preference is always important, but this movement offers something everyone can appreciate. Aside from the main focus areas, such as the case and dial, it’s equally important to consider the strap. 

A Traditional Strap Choice

At first glance, you wouldn’t be wrong to say the strap looks pretty standard. With high-quality stainless steel, a signature logo, and a simple three-fold clasp, it doesn’t sound extremely special. However, the Grand Seiko’s quality and uniformity in design still help it shine.

The majority of the strap’s surface has a brushed finish, which is actually a smart choice to contrast the case, in my opinion. Of course, the strap does come with a few polished areas, so it doesn’t look entirely mute. Honestly, this is another aspect of what made the watch stand out to me. 

I have nothing against polish, but the muted, brushed tone of the strap offers a perfect balance for the shiny case. If a watch is too shiny, then I simply won’t add it to my collection, so I’m grateful they took this direction.

Although the watch has durability and quality you can feel, it isn’t as lightweight as a titanium strap. It could be a deal breaker for some, but you’ll want to expect this watch to feel a bit on the heavier side. Nevertheless, if you get the right fit, the SBGA489 feels solid and secure around the wrist. You won’t find any micro-adjustments for this watch, so you’ll have to make adjustments using screws.

The strap is built with drilled lugs, making it easier to swap it out, but the 19mm lug width might make it a challenge to find a good replacement. I really like that there isn’t a dramatic taper from the lugs to the clasp. 

It really makes for a more uniform, synchronized feel to every angle of the watch when wearing it. For what it’s worth, you also won’t find any complimentary straps included with this watch. It’s not a huge deal for me, but it’s understandably important for some enthusiasts out there.

I’d say that if you were to try the watch yourself, you’d share many of the same sentiments as myself. Boasting a surprisingly proportional fit, the SBGA489 strap is more comfortable than it might look. Grand Seiko did a stellar job of exuding the same balance found in katana craftsmanship.

My On-Wrist Experience

I’m not going to lie to you; my first look at this watch didn’t amaze me. I have this weird tendency to pre-judge watches that seem too polished to me. Once again, nothing wrong with polish, but at a glance, the case seemed too standard and simple to me. It wasn’t until I took a closer look and understood the finer details before my eyes widened to the bigger picture.

For me, once I noticed the granular texture of the dial and its correlation to the iron sand of the katana, I was sold. Aside from the insanely minute detail, it honors the Japanese katana while highlighting the natural elements that forge it into reality. Considering Grand Seiko’s long-standing inspiration from nature, this was a fantastic touch in design.

The slim look of the case and bold dial are enough for me to add it to my collection. In the same vein, how it wears shouldn’t be overlooked. It is a bit on the heavier side for me, but since I was able to get a secure fit, the weight doesn’t shift around much on me.

Stainless steel works with all kinds of outfits, but the dark dial is what makes it work with almost anything. A suit, casual wear, you name it, this watch blends in and stands out in the best way when it catches someone’s eye. While the physical details of the watch are what draw you in, the price point is likely to be the most shocking part of this watch.

Price Point and Availability

For those of you who are in the U.S., the watch shouldn’t be too hard to find. However, this same exclusivity is what makes it such a global sensation. Due to this, you can assume many people outside of the U.S. are doing what they can to get their hands on one.

For a brand new Grand Seiko SBGA489, you can expect to pay $5,600 at retail. Considering the price scale of the luxury watch market and other Grand Seiko designs, this is a steal for me. This not only makes it a great entry-level luxury watch for some, but it is also an investment that’s beyond worth the cost. 

The value-to-cost ratio here honestly blows my mind, and once I put all of the dots together, I had to go try one for myself. If you’re looking for pre-owned, this would still land in the $3,800 to $4,500 range.

While you can find the SBGA489 at a wide range of retailers, there’s only one you can rely on to deliver quality and expertise. Exquisite Timepieces has exactly what you’re looking for and won’t leave you hanging on the details. This means you’re left with a watch to remember, with zero questions on what it has to offer inside and out.

Final Thoughts

Don’t approach this watch like I did, and judge it before you try it on. I was a little too quick to downplay the quality of the SBGA489, and my sentiment has clearly changed. While I haven’t had the chance to add it to my collection just yet, I encourage you to consider it. Aside from its beautiful design, I expect the watch will only get more popular as time passes.

The dial is clearly the star of the show here, and Grand Seikos succeeded at delivering something a little different. This specific watch was released alongside two others, but I feel the SBGA489 stands tall due to its ability to be a great daily wear. In short, my thoughts on this Grand Seiko stunner is that it’s a must-have for the collection.

With the introduction of the Evolution 9 collection, Grand Seiko sought to modernize its models and appropriately adapt to changing times by dramatically refining its designs, introducing a theme of contemporary boldness embedded within every piece. 

Keeping true to what makes Grand Seiko such an icon while adopting modernized visuals and mechanics, the SBGE283 stands as a testament to how an already timeless brand can continue to be a leading figure in innovation. 

Incorporating a GMT hand, allowing a second timezone to be read at a glance, and a Spring Drive movement, which glides swiftly and silently across the dial, this watch deems itself fit for every occasion, as its elegance is only matched by its practicality. 

Regarded as the sibling of the popular “Mistflake” watch (aka the SBGE285), the 283 shares many similarities, including being made of the same high-intensity titanium, which causes both watches to feel significantly lighter on the wrist. 

They also share the same Spring Drive, GMT features, and very similar measurements. The overall aesthetic is nearly identical, with the only real defining feature of the 283 being that the dial is a darker black compared to the silvery grey of the Mistflake. That being said, these watches were purposely designed to have identical features. 

The question of “Which one is better?” boils down to personal preference, style choice, and other outliers. There can’t be a debate on which performs better because they were designed to perform the same. Keep in mind that this review will exclusively focus on the SBGE283, but all of the intricate mechanics, such as movement and measurements, can also be applied to the Mistflake as well.

History

In 2020, the Evolution 9 Style redefined everything we love about Grand Seiko. Keeping the charm found in all Grand Seiko pieces but providing us with a new standard of legibility, comfort, and beauty, the Evolution 9 Style sought to remind a new generation of watch lovers how revolutionary each and every piece strives to be. 

Two years later, in August 2022, the SBGE283 joined the Evolution 9 family, further adding to the already breathtaking library. Prioritizing aesthetics, legibility, and comfort, the SBGE283, at its core, aligns with what Grand Seiko aims to achieve with the Evolution 9 collection, which is the self-proclaimed pursuit of precision and mastery, as every piece further reinforces that the most meaningful evolution begins inside. 

Case

Let’s start by looking at the high-intensity titanium case. At 41mm in diameter and 13.9mm in thickness, with a 48.3mm lug-to-lug, this watch is on the smaller side compared to similar models, which will serve as a selling point for those who prefer slimmer builds. 

The curved drilled lugs give it a unique texture, making the watch appear even smaller while evening out the proportions. They also allow for an easy strap change if you so desire. The material gives it an elegant feel that sets the tone for the entire piece. 

The high-intensity titanium is 30% lighter than stainless steel, giving it a lighter look and feel. It is also darker and moodier than its stainless steel counterpart, allowing for a broader range of styles to accompany the piece. 

As usual–in Grand Seiko fashion– the finishing is impeccable. The predominantly satin finish contrasts the beveled edges along the case, giving it a subtle flare of elegance. The Evolution 9 series follows the theme of very simply designed bezels that are clearly not the focal point of the piece but serve their purpose all the same by adding an undeniable feel of luxury, as the jet-black font of the numbers perfectly contrasts the crisp titanium background. 

The see-through and screw case back allows you to view the intricate movements of the Spring Drive sitting at the heart of the watch, and the signed crown makes it easy to adjust the time and date due to the true GMT movement. The anti-reflective sapphire crystal guards the piece from any unwanted light reflections that threaten to take away from the watch’s aesthetic. 

Overall, the lightness of the titanium and the bezel’s beautiful subtlety perfectly complement the jet-black dial, allowing for uncontested legibility and practicality. The slimness of the case will undoubtedly turn a lot of heads as the fine-tuned sharpness and the texture of the lugs are some of the biggest staples of the piece. 

Dial 

The dial’s deep, rich black serves as a perfect backdrop, making each grand feature shine even brighter than they already do. The Spring Drive fuels the hands as they soar across the frame in a seemingly unstoppable motion, gliding elegantly with pinpoint accuracy. Around the edge, the minute track sits quiet and somber, taking no attention away from the beauty of the hands and backdrop. 

The finely hand-finished indices project themselves like bright stars in the blackness of the night, causing easy legibility. The hands and indexes also come equipped with LumiBrite, offering enhanced visibility at night with its glow-in-the-dark feature. The sleek silvery color of the titanium combined with the inky black dial is a perfect recipe that delivers everything Seiko sought to accomplish with this piece. 

Nothing crazy, nothing obscene, just pure simplistic beauty, finely crafted so the watchmaker’s work can be known and appreciated wherever you look. The date indicator at 3 and the power reserve indicator at 9 round out the dial in perfect symmetry, while the third hand brings the GMT feature, making it easy to change the date at any given moment. 

While the case’s lightweight titanium and slimness are my favorite aspects of this piece, the SBGE283’s dial is one of the most elegant I’ve ever seen. The perfect blend of legibility and simplicity pushes it over the top and rounds out the piece in a well-mannered way that I’ve come to expect from Grand Seiko. 

Movement 

The iconic Grand Seiko Spring Drive is the most impressive part of the SBGE283. Like every other luxury mechanical watch, it generates energy, but the electronic regulator that delivers a precision that no other mechanical watch can match sets the Spring Drive apart from other mechanical movements. 

Grand Seiko has mastered both electronic and mechanical watchmaking, allowing it to nurture both aspects to their full potential. The high torque of a mechanical watch combined with the high precision of an electrical watch allows for a truly groundbreaking combination that the Spring Drive brings to life. The SBGE283 comes with a 9R66 caliber, delivering a power reserve of 72 hours and an accuracy of +15 seconds per month (+1 second per day), which is expected from a Spring Drive. 

The pinpoint accuracy allows for the second hand to move flawlessly, never stuttering or slowing. The SBGE283 and many Evolution 9 collections are true testimonies to the Spring Drive’s power. And, of course, the SBGE283 comes equipped with the GMT feature, undoubtedly putting a smile on the face of every world traveler who wants to get their hands on this watch. 

The easily adjustable date indicator and time zone add another element of efficiency to the watch movement, making it a more dynamic tool for those who are always on the move. One of the most mechanically sound pieces that Seiko has released, the SBGE283 strives for perfection and goes above and beyond to deliver. 

Grand Seiko revolutionized the game with their Spring Drive, and it has become customary to associate the term “flawless” with any piece housing one. As they seek to continuously push for mechanical perfection, it would only make sense for Spring Drive watches to be one of the most highly demanded pieces on the market. 

Straps

The titanium bracelet has a three-link design, polished with rolled bevel and a satin finish. The lack of tapering makes it seem wide and slightly disproportionate to the case, and it lacks micro-adjustments to make it fit even better. It does, however, come with two half-links, making for slightly easier adjustments. 

Like all Grand Seiko bracelets, the SBGE283 is sized with push pins rather than screws so that you can pop them out to loosen or tighten the bracelet around the wrist, and the drilled lugs make it so that you can easily swap out the straps whenever you feel the need. The bracelet width comes in at 22mm, causing it to fit fairly thickly along the wrist, but the titanium material makes it feel much lighter than a stainless steel variant. 

A three-fold clasp with a push button release is a simple guarantee that the watch fits tight and securely around the wrist. The clasp is also engraved with the iconic GS symbol, adding a new level of polish and style. 

The titanium material’s value to the entire piece is all the more notable on the bracelet, as the lightweight feel ensures unparalleled comfort while also allowing for a thicker design. 

The bracelet itself highlights the entire watch, broadcasting the smooth titanium while also complementing the luxurious case and dial. It executes its purpose perfectly, bringing the modern ideas of the Evolution 9 collection full circle and embodying everything Seiko seeks to achieve. 

On The Wrist 

As I said, one of the SGE283’s biggest selling points is its lightweight feel on the wrist. It prioritizes comfort and sits securely while also being one of the most stylish pieces in the Evolution 9 family. Despite the 41mm size, the 48.3 mm lug-to-lug and the 13.9mm thickness give it a very comfortable on-the-wrist experience. 

It gives off a sporty aesthetic while fitting under most cuffs, fitting like a 40mm watch thanks to the integrated bezel. With a 10-bar water resistance, you’re not going to want to be near any major water sources, but this watch isn’t necessarily made to go deep-sea diving, so if you get caught in a heavy rainstorm, it might be a good idea to cover it under a sleeve. 

While the width of the strap is probably my biggest complaint, I feel like the case’s curved lugs and integrated bezel make the watch appear slimmer, while the titanium makes it feel lighter. It’s great for those of you with a wrist size of 6.75 inches to 7.5, although people with larger or smaller wrists could easily adjust it to fit them as well. 

A rich, slick silver combined with jet-black is a very simple style choice. But that simplicity is what sets this piece apart. I think that the subtlety of the bezel perfectly contrasts the blackness of the dial, while the silver coloring of the titanium makes the entire aesthetic shine. Not to mention the finely polished surfaces and attention to detail on the hands and indices. 

Overall, all these factors make for an incredible on-the-wrist experience, as I found it easy to style with virtually any piece of clothing, which (in my opinion) should always serve as a feature that is prioritized. 

The GMT feature makes it efficient for switching time zones at any given moment, while the anti-reflective coating on the inner center removes the glare from the hands and indices, resulting in flawless legibility from any angle. 

Price and Availability

You can find the Grand Seiko SBGE283 from authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. We ship all over the US, and since we are authorized dealers, we offer a five-year warranty directly from Grand Seiko. A brand new Grand Seiko SBGE283 costs $8,400, with pre-owned prices varying from $6-7k depending on condition. 

Conclusion

Keeping true to the philosophy of their brand while also making revolutionary changes to fit modern times, Grand Seiko has combined their classic feel and masterful craftsmanship into a contemporary design that will draw the eye of those who prefer a more modern look. 

The goal of the Evolution 9 collection was to push the boundaries, setting new standards of practicality and comfort. Ever since they were founded in 1960, Grand Seiko has always sought to be in a league of their own. The Evolution 9 serves as a magnum opus, combining everything they’ve learned from previous releases into one grand collection that takes them one step forward on the never-ending road toward perfection. 

Renewing the aesthetics that have been at the core of Grand Seiko for the past 62 years, the SBGE283 perfectly encapsulates everything the Evolution 9 stands for. The sleek craftsmanship and perfectly designed mechanics have made this watch a treasured prize, undoubtedly fueling the interest in similar pieces, as well as cementing the Evolution 9 collection as a monumental testament to the never-ending pursuit of technological evolution.