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I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing a number of watches throughout my career, but if there’s one brand whose press photos almost never do their watches justice, it’s Grand Seiko. That’s not to say they are bad photographers or even bad at marketing; it’s simply that these watches have such incredible attention to detail and high levels of finishing that even the best cameras in the world can’t photograph their beauty. 

There are a number of Grand Seiko watches I could use as an example for this point, but the model I had the joy of reviewing this week is the perfect example: the Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013

It’s a simple watch in many ways, especially for Grand Seiko. There’s no overly complicated texture or pattern on the dial, a classic – although highly accurate– quartz movement inside, and an easily wearable 40mm case made in commonly seen stainless steel. So how does a watch that sounds so regular on paper become one of the most beautiful entry-level watches I’ve ever seen?

The Grand Seiko Heritage Collection

The Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch was first released in 2020, and added to the Japanese watchmaker’s Heritage collection. It joined two other models, also forming part of this entry-level family, including the cream-coloured SBGP009 and the black-dialed SBGP011. 

At the time, these three models replaced the SBGV221 with a champagne dial and the SBGV223 with a black dial. Their biggest improvement was the movement change, with the updated Caliber 9F85 taking the place of the older Caliber 9F82. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch and its two brothers that launched with it ticked all the boxes of the luxury watch manufacturer’s Heritage collection. Stylistically, they had classic silhouettes with predominantly polished cases, clear and easy-to-read dials, and fine attention to detail. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage family is, for largely this reason, known for its classic appeal and is often a popular choice for collectors wanting the Grand Seiko name at an accessible price. Sure, there are watches in the collection powered by their more affluent Spring Drive and Hi-Beat movements, but those powered by their 9F quartz series are excellent for those seeking an entry-level timepiece. The Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch is one of the same.

A Super Slim Case 

With a diameter of 40mm, a lug-to-lug measurement of 47mm, and a thickness of just 10.6mm, this watch might be up there as one of Grand Seiko’s most wearable models. It fits comfortably on the wrist and is especially low. 

I know many of my fellow Grand Seiko lovers out there often have a hard time with some of their case sizes, especially the thickness. The Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch is an exception to the rule, however, sitting wonderfully low on the wrist, making it ideal for any of you who have a penchant for tight shirt cuffs. The low profile allows the watch to slide effortlessly under the sleeves, providing both elegance and practicality. 

The dimensions help to set the Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch apart, too, for its versatility. Whether you have smaller wrists like mine—measuring just five inches—or larger wrists up to eight inches, this watch accommodates all. It strikes a balance between making a statement and offering a sleek, almost skin-like feel.

The case is entirely finished by hand using Grand Seiko’s signature Zaratsu polishing technique, which creates an exceptional mirror-like shine. Trained artisans carefully hold the stainless steel against a spinning tin plate, a technique that takes up to three years to learn. But hopefully, as you can tell, the result will be worth it. 

It delivers a beautifully polished finish and a standard of craftsmanship that I believe is rare in the watch industry today, especially at this price point. In contrast to the polished surfaces, the Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 features some satin brushed elements on the lug tops and bracelet links, enhancing its visual appeal and adding depth to the overall design. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 boasts an impressive 100 meters of water resistance, which is not often seen in dress watches like this. Grand Seiko ensures that most of their timepieces offer at least this level of protection, thanks to a securely closed and screw-down stainless steel case back and a reliable push-pull crown at the 3 o’clock position. 

While an exhibition case back might have been a nice addition should there have been a mechanical movement placed inside, the engraved lion emblem in relief on the back is a worthy substitution that reflects the brand’s fierce and powerful identity. The crown itself is gently knurled and embossed with the Grand Seiko logo. 

Lastly, the bezel features a conical shape that is smoothly polished using the same Zaratsu technique. This beautifully anchors the slightly domed sapphire crystal glass at the top, which is treated with an anti-reflective coating on the inner surface. This not only reduces glare but also lends the watch a subtle vintage charm, completing a well-rounded timepiece that is as functional as it is stylish. 

A Classic Navy Blue Dial 

Some dial colors are truly classic, and when it comes to timeless options, black, silver, and navy blue will always be at the top of the list. While I appreciate the recent trend toward brightly colored watch dials, there’s always a place for these classic hues that effortlessly complement any outfit or occasion. The deep navy blue dial of the Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch is the perfect example of this. 

Its dark blue surface showcases a stunning sunburst decoration, creating a subtle shimmer that adds depth to the watch face. Depending on the lighting conditions, the shade of blue can change ever so slightly—one moment appearing as a rich royal blue and the next taking on an almost black appearance. This dynamic quality enhances the watch’s versatility, making it suitable for both casual and formal settings. 

Like the case, the dial is completely hand-finished, which is truly remarkable for a watch at this price point. Every detail, from the hands to the hour markers and the date window, is meticulously crafted by skilled artisans using diamond-tipped milling tools. 

These talented craftsmen specialize in creating tiny components all day, every day, ensuring that each piece is of the highest quality. The hour and minute hands are sharp and modern, while the seconds hand is slim and straightforward, making it almost unnoticeable as it glides around the dial. 

Each hour marker is slightly faceted, reflecting light beautifully and enhancing the dial’s overall aesthetic. These markers elegantly match the hands with their own mix of polished and brushed finishes. 

The only other hardware on the dial is the applied GS logo at 12 o’clock, accompanied by the Grand Seiko name printed directly beneath it, and the bordered date window at 3 o’clock, which features a black-on-white date disc, providing essential functionality without cluttering the face. 

Notably, there’s no writing positioned at 6 o’clock, which is often the case with many watches. This design choice contributes to a clean, crisp finish that makes the dial feel uncluttered and sophisticated. 

I do find myself wishing that the date disc here was finished in navy blue rather than white for added aesthetic appeal, but I can appreciate that the current design enhances legibility and still does not detract from the overall display. This is just me being picky.

A Caliber 9F Movement

The Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 is powered by the Caliber 9F85 quartz movement, which is widely regarded as one of the best quartz calibers on the market. This movement boasts incredible tolerances of +/- 10 seconds per year, a remarkable achievement in the realm of quartz technology. 

In comparison, standard quartz movements typically have an accuracy rating of around +/- 15 seconds per year, making the 9F85 significantly more precise. This level of accuracy is attributed to several advanced features, including a quartz trimmer designed to adjust for drift in the quartz crystal over the years, ensuring that your watch remains as accurate as the day you bought it. 

Another noteworthy characteristic of the Caliber 9F85 movement is its thermal compensation. This means that the movement is engineered to adjust for variations in temperature that can affect the accuracy of quartz watches. 

Fluctuations in temperature can cause the quartz crystal to expand or contract, potentially leading to deviations in timekeeping. However, the thermal compensation feature in the 9F85 movement allows it to maintain exceptional accuracy even under varying environmental conditions. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch’s movement offers another unique function known as an independent hour hand. Rather than employing a traditional quick-set date mechanism, the hour hand can be set independently. This feature is particularly advantageous for travelers, as it makes switching between different time zones a seamless process. 

When you adjust the hour hand independently, the minute hand and seconds hand continue to operate unaffected, allowing you to easily set your watch to the local time without disrupting the timekeeping of the movement. It’s a thoughtful feature for those who like their watch to be exact to the second. 

Finally, the Calibre 9F85 is a 9-jewel movement that has been meticulously designed, built, and regulated in-house by Grand Seiko. This commitment to quality and craftsmanship is evident in the movement’s performance and longevity. Plus, with an impressive battery life of 3 to 4 years, you can enjoy the convenience of a reliable timepiece without the hassle of frequent battery changes. 

An Oyster-Like Bracelet 

For its strap, the Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 opts for a full stainless steel bracelet. The three-row link architecture showcases staggered intermediate and differential link styles, reminiscent of the iconic Rolex Oyster, yet distinctly Grand Seiko in its execution. 

The polished link ends catch the light beautifully, while the unique bevelling along the link edges adds a touch of sophistication, effectively separating the link tops from the sides with a rounded finish. 

It’s clearly a strap largely designed for comfort and wearability, including removable links that are screw adjusted so you can easily make adjustments in your own home. There are also a couple of half links to help achieve that perfect size. However, it’s worth noting that there are no micro-adjustments available, which might limit immediate sizing options just slightly. 

The single-fold steel deployment clasp features a twin-trigger release mechanism, requiring you to press both buttons simultaneously to open the bracelet. This added security feature ensures that your watch remains securely fastened to your wrist, providing peace of mind during daily wear. The clasp also boasts the Grand Seiko logo embossed in relief, serving as a subtle yet stylish reminder of the craftsmanship behind the piece.

With a 20mm lug width and drilled lugs, changing straps on this watch is a breeze. This feature allows you to easily swap out the stainless steel bracelet for a variety of straps, enabling you to customize the look of your watch to suit your style or occasion. 

Given the dial’s striking deep navy blue color, the Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 is truly a strap magnet, inviting you to explore endless possibilities in personalization.

On-Wrist Experience

As you can probably tell from the introduction, I have really enjoyed wearing the Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch this past week. It’s the perfect blend of simplicity and elegance, offering a set of dimensions that well and truly cater to every wrist. With a case diameter of 40mm and a slender thickness of just 10.3mm, this watch offers a beautifully flat profile that sits comfortably on the skin. Its low-profile design is ideal for those with tighter shirt cuffs or anyone seeking an unobtrusive timepiece.

For me, though, most of the beauty of this watch lies in its simplicity. There’s an understated charm to it that makes it a pleasure to wear without any fuss. 

For those of us with smaller wrists, like my own at five-and-a-half inches, the SBGP013 feels substantial yet never overwhelming. It’s a watch I wouldn’t worry about wearing because it’s overpriced or overfussy in its design. Instead, it’s beautifully simple and feels well suited to any occasion. 

And if you have larger wrists than me, which is most likely the case, the watch will still maintain an elegant, dressy presence. If you have wrists of 8 inches or above, it might look a little small on you, so it could be worth exploring some of Grand Seiko’s larger models. That said, if you love the vintage look of a small watch, don’t let my words stop you.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch might just be one of the Japanese watch manufacturers most affordable models, retailing at an attractive price of $2,600. This makes it an ideal entry-level watch for those looking to experience the craftsmanship and elegance that Grand Seiko is renowned for without breaking the bank. Given its affordability, it’s not uncommon to find this model on the second-hand market for around $2,000, too.

The SBGP013 is a non-limited edition watch, but it has been part of Grand Seiko’s portfolio since its launch in 2020, so how long it will remain available is anyone’s guess. This uncertainty does add a layer of urgency, and if you are someone remotely tempted by this model, know that Grand Seiko does have a tendency to suddenly take even their best-selling entry-level models out of circulation with little to no notice.

If you are considering purchasing the Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch, be sure to order from an authorized retailer like Exquisite Timepieces. This ensures that you’re receiving a genuine Grand Seiko watch complete with official paperwork and warranty, giving you the peace of mind you deserve for your investment.

Conclusion 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Quartz SBGP013 watch is an easy timepiece with which to fall in love. Because of its simplicity, there’s little you can fault. The quartz movement is one of the best on the market and allows for an incredibly compact set of case dimensions. 

The 10.3mm thickness is going to be a huge selling point for those of us who love a nice flat finish on the wrist. Plus, that deep navy dial, while overly simple for the likes of Grand Seiko, is still breathtaking and offers all the high levels of finishing and attention to detail the brand is best known for. This is an entry-level watch I’d recommend to anyone wanting to get started in the realm of luxury watchmaking.

I think most of us watch collectors and timepiece enthusiasts have something that instantly attracts us to a watch. For some, it’s an obsession with a particular complication, or for others, it can be a particular genre of watch, such as a diver’s or pilot’s. For me, though, it’s a dial color. In particular, a dial done in a particular shade of light blue. Very much like the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch I’ve got the pleasure of reviewing today. 

I don’t know what it is, but there’s something so beautiful about this shade of blue. It’s different from the classic navy we’ve seen so many times before, and yet it’s still not so loud and expressive that it feels unwearable or overwhelming. 

It’s not a typical turquoise blue often associated with the sea or sky either, but more of an icy hue giving off an undeniable elegance and tranquility. 

It’s also not just a smooth ice blue dial, but one with a special texture, one that Grand Seiko describes as being inspired by the natural ‘icefall’ phenomenon seen when the springs near Mount Iwate freeze over in winter’s cold air.

Inspired By Grand Seiko’s First 9S Mechanical Watch

Grand Seiko has no shortage of milestones in their long history, but one of their most significant is arguably the launch of their first 9S mechanical watch in 1998. The Caliber 9S series was another breakthrough in the brand’s long journey to create the world’s most precise and reliable watch. 

It was designed and manufactured completely in-house by the Japanese watchmaker and ultimately led to the creation of a new standard of accuracy for the Grand Seiko brand. It was durable and precise, with an average daily discrepancy of +5 to -3 seconds, a rating greater than even chronometer-certified timepieces. 

The first Caliber 9S watch was housed in a 37mm case, a design that was a departure from the brand’s earlier designs, emphasizing more of a modern aesthetic yet still maintaining the classic elegance that Grand Seiko is known for. 

Last year, to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the 9S caliber, Grand Seiko released limited editions, the SBGH311 and SBGR325, both echoing the dimensions of the original model. These timepieces honored the pioneering spirit of the brand’s head of design, Nobuhiro Kosugi, who played a crucial role in the 1998 creation. 

Sadly, though, these two watches were limited editions and were not easy to get your hands on. But thankfully, the new Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch brings everything back and more. It has the same faithful 37mm wide case, a 9S Hi-Beat movement, and, of course, one of the most exquisite ice blue dials I have ever seen. 

The First 37mm Ever-Brilliant Case

So, as I mentioned, the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch comes in the same 37mm case as the original Caliber 9S watch. But what’s even cooler is that this is the first 37mm case from Grand Seiko that is made from their famous Ever-Brilliant steel. 

This is a stainless steel alloy that’s 1.7 times more corrosion-resistant than the usual 316L stainless steel most watches use. That basically means it’s a lot more durable and also has a wonderful bright white sheen that adds to the watch’s dressy appearance. 

As for its elegant silhouette, the Grand Seiko SBGH347 looks little to no different to the original timepiece launched 25 years ago. If that doesn’t speak volumes about the enduring quality and appeal of a design like this, I don’t know what does. 

It’s a nice reminder that sometimes, case designs don’t need constant updating. They’re timeless and just as beautiful now as they were back then. I agree and can quite confidently say that the case here is spectacular. 

For starters, most of the case is Zaratsu polished, a technique done entirely by hand. Talented artisans are trained for up to three years to hold the precious metal against a spinning tinplate to get the perfect curve and mirror-like shine. 

The Zaratsu polishing works perfectly with the case’s sharp angles, contrasting nicely with the few brushed surfaces found on the lug tops and bracelet links. 

The dimensions of the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch are also wonderful and will no doubt attract men and women of all wrist sizes. It has a compact 37mm diameter and a lug-to-lug measurement of 44.6mm. 

It sits extremely comfortably on the wrist and yet doesn’t feel invisible, as is often the case with super slim dress watches. It has some heft yet is still easily worn under a shirt cuff with a height of 13.3mm. It’s not overwhelming, but you can definitely feel its presence. 

Other features of the watch include dual-curved sapphire crystal on top, which adds to its 1990s-inspired look and, of course, provides us with a healthy amount of scratch resistance. The glass is also treated to a layer of anti-reflective coating on the inner surface for exceptional legibility. The case back also boasts a piece of sapphire crystal surrounded by a beautiful beaded edging, adding a touch more flair and allowing for a view of the Caliber 9S inside. 

Finally, we can’t overlook the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch’s 100-meter water resistance. You’ll not often find a watch with a compact size like this, a full metal bracelet, and a beautiful formal occasion-worthy dial with a water resistance that is this high. 

No, it won’t survive deep sea diving, but it’ll happily withstand a shallow swim or heavy rainfall. Its water resistance is assisted by the screwed case back and screw-in crown positioned at 3 o’clock, beautifully knurled and decorated with the GS logo in relief.

An Icy Blue Dial

Grand Seiko is no stranger to creating beautiful, intricate dials and surprise, surprise, the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch delivers yet another breathtaking one. At first glance, the dial texture appears to be a clever blend between a traditional vertically brushed finish and Grand Seiko’s famous “Birch” dial. 

The latter is inspired by the delicate patterns of birch trees, characterized by deep, zig-zagging grooves. In contrast, the SBGH347’s texture features thinner, straighter lines that create a more understated and refined appearance, one that cleverly mimics the serene elegance of winter landscapes. 

In the press release, Grand Seiko poetically describes the inspiration behind the dial coming from the natural beauty found in Hachimantai in the Iwate Prefecture, where Nanataki—a majestic 30-meter waterfall—originates from the streams cascading down Mt. Iwate. According to Grand Seiko, the dial represents this frozen waterfall, evoking the massive icicles formed during the coldest months of the year. 

Sadly, I can’t say I’ve ever visited this particular waterfall to advise whether the dial does it justice or not, but I’m inclined to just nod and agree with Grand Seiko. It’s a dial that looks and feels like winter on the wrist. 

As I mentioned in the introduction, the ice blue shade of the dial is a personal favorite of mine. It’s captivating, striking a balance between cool and refreshing, dreamy and stylish. It’s a color that would work just as well for casual occasions as well as formal ones, inviting a strange sense of calm and an element of serenity. 

As for the rest of the dial, it’s quintessential Grand Seiko. The markers and hands are expertly finished, featuring polished top surfaces that sparkle under the light. The large diamond-cut bevels add an extra layer of sophistication, creating a visual feast that is both captivating and functional. 

The markers are faceted, and the hands are sharp, sitting beside the familiar applied Grand Seiko logo at 12 o’clock. There’s also a framed date window at 3 o’clock, which is a handy touch that adds functionality without over-cluttering the display.

A Hi-Beat Movement

Since the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch is a timepiece honoring the original 9S Caliber watch, it would be wrong for it not to be powered by one of the brand’s modern-day 9S calibers. 

Inside is the in-house Caliber 9S85, a high-frequency mechanical movement operating at 5Hz, or 36,000 vibrations per hour. This means that the movement achieves an impressive accuracy rating of +5 to -3 seconds per day, a standard that exemplifies Grand Seiko’s commitment to precision and reliability. 

The movement boasts a noteworthy 55-hour power reserve, ensuring the watch remains ticking even if it’s taken off the wrist for a couple of days. 

There’s also a total of 37 jewels and plenty of handsome decoration applied to the movement’s architecture, which, as mentioned, is put on display through the watch’s exhibition case back. The finishing details include polished surfaces, gilded lettering, and a wonderfully striped rotor.

 A Full Metal Bracelet

The Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch comes equipped with a standard three-row link stainless steel bracelet. Again, it uses Grand Seiko’s Ever-Brilliant steel alloy for a beautiful shine and high levels of durability. 

We’re also promised a combination of finishing to match the case, including brushed link tops and polished sides. This contrast adds a touch more depth and visual interest, but one that is outshined – and rightly so – by the dial. 

The bracelet leads to a folding clasp with a push-button release. Sadly, there is still no micro-adjustment on these GS bracelets – something many of us Grand Seiko collectors are still holding out for. That said, there are some half links for close adjustment, and the links are held by screws, so you can make changes relatively easily. 

The Ever-Brilliant Steel bracelet also comes with a 19mm lug width, which, while slightly awkward for finding alternative straps in this size, is manageable thanks to the drilled lugs. This means that once you find a compatible strap, you’ll be able to install your new watch band easily in your own time. 

On-Wrist Experience 

As you can probably tell from my words so far, wearing the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch these past few days has been a delightful experience. It’s an absolutely beautiful watch with a breathtaking dial that deserves to be seen in person and a nice, unisex case that will suit almost anyone. 

With a case diameter of 37mm, a length of 44.6mm, and a thickness of 13.3mm, this watch is ideally sized for a wide range of wrist sizes. It strikes a beautiful balance in width, making it suitable for nearly anyone. I have a five-and-a-half-inch wrist, and since I generally gravitate toward oversized watches, I find this timepiece to be a standout. 

The SBGH347 makes a statement without feeling overly bulky or cumbersome. I believe it would look best on wrists ranging from 6 to 7.5 inches; any larger, and it might start to appear a bit small. However, don’t let that discourage you. Smaller watches definitely have their place, and if you appreciate a subtle vintage aesthetic, this watch delivers that, too. 

While the 13.3mm thickness is a tad more than I would prefer, it’s still manageable. I would have loved for it to be a couple of millimeters slimmer, but it remains thin enough to comfortably slide under a shirt cuff for more formal occasions. Overall, the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 wears beautifully, making it a versatile choice for both everyday wear and special events.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch is a little pricier than those launched last year for the Caliber 9S’s 25th anniversary, retailing for $6,900, but keep in mind that this novelty does come with the company’s Ever-Brilliant Steel case, a huge upgrade from the standard 316L steel used previously. Plus, when you take into account the detailing on the dial and the hi-beat in-house movement working hard inside, it’s hard to argue on the retail price.

It’s also a non-limited edition and is currently available worldwide as of September 2024. I have no doubt, though, that due to its beautiful dial and accessible sizing, this will be a popular model, so it’s still worth catching it in stock when you can! 

Just be sure to stick to authorized Grand Seiko retailers like Exquisite Timepieces so you can guarantee you’re getting a genuine timepiece with all the official paperwork.

Conclusion

In conclusion, the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat 1998 Revival SBGH347 watch is a superb watch that embodies everything this Japanese watchmaker stands for. 

It’s a remarkable entry-level watch in the brand’s Hi-Beat line-up, and as the first mid-size watch presented in the striking Ever-Brilliant Steel at this size, I have no doubt it’ll stand out in a market saturated with 40 to 42mm timepieces. 

Sure, the case wouldn’t hurt by being the smallest bit thinner, but the elevated finish on the case and dial quickly makes up for that. And alas, it seems my obsession with icy blue dials remains, and I have yet another Grand Seiko watch added to my long, never-ending wishlist.

The Japanese are proud people who put that pride into everything they make. From cars to electronics, products from the Land of the Rising Sun tend to be reliable, long-lasting, and beautiful. 

This extends to watches as well, and Grand Seiko is at the head of the class. The brand has a long history of excellence in the art and science of horology. Indeed, any true watch aficionado should have a Grand Seiko or two in their collection.

Over the last several years, the brand has been releasing watches with smaller cases that are in line with the classics of the past. There are many watch lovers who seek out cases smaller than 40 mm. 

The SBGY collection has several of these heritage-inspired watches, and one of the most beautiful is the Grand Seiko SBGY013 Omiwatari. Let’s dive in and get a good look at what makes this timepiece so special. 

History

Grand Seiko has been making quality timepieces for more than 140 years. New collections, models, and innovations are always hitting the market as the brand strives to remain at the top of its game. 

In 2020, the SBGY005, the first watch in the collection, was given a limited release of 22 pieces. Grand Seiko followed up with the SBGY007 in 2021, and 2022 saw the introduction of the SBGY013. This is truly among the nicest in not only this collection but also all of the Grand Seiko catalog. 

A dressy watch with a bit of sporty flair, there is a lot to like about the Omiwatari.

Case

The stainless steel case features Grand Seiko’s trademark brushed and Zaratsu-polished surfaces that give it great depth as well as a gorgeous shine. The dimensions are on the smaller side, giving it a classic look. 

The 38.5 mm diameter, coupled with the 43.7 mm lug-to-lug, make it suitable for a wide range of wrist sizes. I tend to prefer cases in the 40-42 mm range on my 7.25-inch wrist, but the SBGY013 suits me well, especially when I want to dress things up a bit. If you are a bigger person with a wrist approaching 8 inches, you will likely find it a bit small.

The Omiwatari is thin enough to easily fit under a shirt sleeve at 10.2 mm. Even the lug width is smaller than the average 19 mm, which adds to the classy look. The crown sits at 3 o’clock and is large enough to make setting and winding easy but still small enough not to throw off the symmetry. The lack of crown guards adds to the clean line of the case.

The crystal is dual-curved scratch-resistant sapphire, and the anti-reflective coating ensures you can easily read the dial in any lighting conditions. The case back is a screw-down and exhibition. A sapphire crystal with the same anti-reflective coating lets you see the movement and show it to your horological friends. 

The water resistance is 30 meters, which will protect the watch in the rain but do not swim in it. 

Although it’s generally the dial that gets most of the focus, you may find yourself checking out the case from time to time. 

Dial

On to the dial, the face of a watch. Grand Seiko does everything well, but their dials take it up a few levels, and the SBGY013 is one of the very best. 

Nature takes a prime position in Japanese culture, and Grand Seiko tends to design its dials as a tribute to natural phenomena. 

Located near Grand Seiko’s works is the beautiful Lake Suwa. This pristine body of water freezes up in the winter, and a ridge of ice develops across the width of the lake. Legend has it the ridge is created by an ice goddess as she walks across the lake. The trail is called the “Omiwatari”, hence the name of this model.

The color is not just an ordinary white but rather a silvery white. When the light hits the dial, you see the same kind of sparkles visible on fresh snow. The texture gives the dial the look of a frozen pond covered by ice ridges. It’s a spectacular design, unlike any other dial I’ve ever seen. 

A dial this beautiful needs the right complementary components. No problem there. The stainless steel baton indices taper toward the center, and there is a double baton at 12 o’clock. As with all of Grand Seiko’s indices, they are precision cut and polished for a shine that complements both the case and the dial. 

The hands are polished stainless steel and narrow to a long point with a shorter point at the back end. The needle seconds hand is tempered blue steel and stands out against the dial as it completes each silky smooth sweep around the dial. 

The Grand Seiko logo is applied in stainless steel at 12 o’clock with the name in black underneath. The words Spring Drive sit at six. On the outer edge of the dial are the simple black ticks of the minute track. In addition to being very pleasant to look at, the dial is easy to read, as it should be on a dress watch

Movement

The watch is powered by yet another of Grand Seiko’s specialties. The in-house hand-wound caliber 9R31 Spring Drive 30-jewel movement is incredibly accurate at +/- 15 seconds per month. 

The dual spring barrel and the combination of mechanical and electronic quartz technology keep the seconds hand smoothly sweeping and provide a very generous 72-hour power reserve. 

Need to know how much power you have left and can’t find it on the dial? Have no fear. There is a power reserve indicator on the back of the movement, and thanks to the exhibition case back, you can clearly see it. 

The indicator and the Grand Seiko logo and name are displayed in blue, which stands out nicely against the stainless movement. Attention to detail is yet another Grand Seiko trademark. You won’t have to wind the watch too often but it’s so beautiful, you may want to.

Straps

The SBGY013 comes with a unique nine-link stainless steel bracelet. The links are alternately brushed and polished for a stunning look that fully complements the case. The bracelet closes with a three-fold clasp and push-button release. It’s secure yet comfortable and wraps nicely around the wrist.

There are no micro adjusters, but the links are only 0.7 mm long, so getting a good fit should not be difficult. The bracelet is elegant enough to be worn with a suit but still has enough sportiness to work with more casual attire. 

The drilled lugs make it easy to swap the bracelet out for a strap if you want to make it dressier. A leather or alligator strap looks great on the SBGY013, so you have options.

On-Wrist Experience

So, does this watch wear as good as it looks? With the smaller, thin case, curved lugs, and flexible bracelet, it sits very nicely on the wrist. It’s fairly light and very comfortable. It easily slides under a shirt cuff, and you might forget you are wearing it if not for the temptation to periodically look at this masterpiece.

As to how to style it, the possibilities are nearly endless. White is the ultimate neutral color, and you can wear this dial with suits, jackets, and shirts of any hue. It pairs well with polos, oxfords, or dress shirts with or without ties. 

Some guys will only wear a leather strap with a suit, but I think a nice bracelet looks just as good. Hell, I wear divers with suits, and the SBGY013 is more than dressy enough to hold up with your two or three-piece suits.

The simplicity of the dial makes it easy to read the time at a glance so as not to take your attention away from work or the event you are attending. I find myself sneaking extra peeks. It’s way too nice not to. 

Price & Availability

If you are considering purchasing the incredible SBGY013 Omiwatari, you can get one at a Grand Seiko boutique or from their website. It retails for $9,000. You get a lot for your money and a watch this nice for under 10 grand is a steal.

You can also get an SBGY013 from an authorized dealer, such as Exquisite Timepieces. You can stop by our Naples, FL, brick-and-mortar store to try one on or pick one up on our website. We offer free domestic shipping, and as an AD, we give you the Grand Seiko 5-year warranty. Our friendly and knowledgeable sales staff is ready to assist you in person or online. 

If you would like to save some money by going the preowned route, you can get a used SBGY013 for between $6,600 and $7,500. 

Conclusion

It can be hard to choose among the many watches available in the horological world. And that’s just the Grand Seiko catalog. If you are looking for a classy dress watch that’s reliable, accurate, stunningly beautiful, and a little sporty, you owe it to yourself to check out the Grand Seiko SBGY013 Omiwatari. It was inspired by a goddess. It’s simply heavenly. 

Crowned with the name Boshū, the Grand Seiko SBGW287 is a dress watch that’s meant to stand out. Boshū refers to the seasonal transition to winter, which is why the watch comes in an autumn burgundy color.

Of course, the stainless steel accents of the case and dial offer an excellent contrast. The SBGW287 does a great job of finding balance in its bold colorway. It’s included as a part of Grand Seiko’s Elegance collection, which is more than fitting, in my opinion.

Donning a crocodile leather band, this watch is designed for individuals with unique tastes. In this Grand Seiko SBGW287 review, you’ll get a breakdown of the finite details that make this timepiece whole.

A Historical Significance to the SBGW287

Although the SBGW287 has only been on the market for about two years, it’s part of a much larger plan. You’ll find that it’s a part of the Grand Seiko Elegance collection, but it’s also a part of the brand’s “Flow of Seasons” lineup.

This includes numerous watches that embody the qualities of Japan’s 24 seasonal divisions, also referred to as “sekki.” The Flow of Seasons lineup of GS watches was started back in 2019 and has expanded since, with the SBGW287 being a part of it.

More specifically, the SBGW287 carries the theme of autumn’s transition to winter, which is referred to as Boshū. Part of what has always driven my interest in Grand Seiko designs is their inspiration, which is taken from natural elements.

Unlike many popular models from Grand Seiko, the SBGW287 isn’t a reissue of an older design. On another note, this watch was released alongside the SBGW281. I like its similar features, but I appreciate the dark and bold look of the SBGW287 much better.

You can also find similarities between SBGW283 and SBGW285. While each of these watches comes with plenty of unique identity, it isn’t hard to see the commonalities. The Flow of Seasons lineup started out focusing on the 62GS and GMT watch styles but offers much more variety today. 

With a closer look, I’m able to appreciate the historical detail in this watch, as it’s clearly an important focal point for Grand Seiko. Even if this watch is placed among other similar designs, I feel it’s one that’ll draw the eyes a bit more than others.

Simple and Dynamic Case

Featuring the well-known Zaratsu polish seen in many Grand Seiko timepieces, the SBGW287 case is reflective and equally neutral. I say this due to the overall sleek look of the case, but it’s also important to highlight the actual dimensions.

The case of the SBGW287 comes with a 37.3mm diameter and a 44.3mm lug-to-lug length. I can see how a lot of personal preference would weigh into the thickness, which is 11.7mm. Whereas someone might feel that it’s a bit too thick, I think it offers the perfect amount of balance.

Although the case comes with a reflective nature, it’s distortion-free, which helps it look seamless and uniform to the eye. One detail I’m always excited about is the exhibition case back. I love seeing the movement go to work without missing a single step. What amazes me most about viewing the movement is that it’s something that can be unwaveringly consistent.

The box-shaped sapphire crystal is not only scratch-resistant but also mimics details related to the vintage look of acrylic crystals. I will admit the crown seems a bit large relative to other aspects of the case design. This wouldn’t be a deal breaker for me, but I can’t ignore the fact that it seems a bit too large from certain angles.

On the other hand, having a larger crown makes manual adjustments easier for any wearer. I also appreciate their inclusion of a slipping attachment to prevent overwinding. This is an important detail to help protect the main spring and mitigate wear and tear. 

I also like that the integrated bezel doesn’t distract too much from the dial. An important feature nonetheless, the bezel’s placement and overall design was a smart move, in my opinion.

You get the benefit of the traditional dress watch style and bold yet minimal design choices for a pretty cohesive look. I can see how the color of this watch might be a bit too much for some, but I feel it’s a worthy topic of conversation, to say the least.

Difference in the Dial

With just a quick look, the dial may not seem like much to the untrained eye. It’s true that it does offer simplicity, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t intricate. I find looking at it from an angle does the dial the most justice.

No one would argue with the bold and beautiful color of the dial, but it’s important to note why it’s much more than that. On top of its symbolism of changing seasons, it offers an organic texture that you wish you could feel with your fingertips.

Exhibiting a slightly granulated look, the dial is another great example of Grand Seiko’s attention to detail. I’m also a fan of their choice in deep red, as they could’ve gone with many other color hues when it comes to autumn transitions. Not only is this shade of red one of the most beautiful, but it’s a color you can find during autumn in Japan and many other parts of the world.

With sleek diamond-cut hands and hour markers, you get a thin, highly polished look that doesn’t block out too much of the red. Legibility is never a problem, as the slightest reflection can help illuminate the dial.

Some might be dissatisfied with the lack of a date window or reserve indicator, but I’m a huge fan of this choice. I like to see as much of the dial as possible, and not having those additional features makes it look much more open.

You do get the expected inclusion of the GS logo at the top of the dial, but they made sure it was seamless to its surroundings. I’m usually not a fan when the GS logo comes in yellow gold, so I’m really glad they made the matching choice in color and polish.

The dial, from an overall standpoint, comes with a very sharp look, from the burgundy color to the sharp contrast in the hands and indices. There’s no minute track on this dial, but once again, it’s a smart move, as that would’ve just been an added distraction. Regardless of the bold color in the SBGW287, it’s a deeper red than you might expect and blends well with many fall outfits and aesthetics.

The Trustworthy Mechanical Movement

Including a Grand Seiko Caliber 9S64 mechanical movement, which features a surprisingly smooth tick. With precision and long-term reliability at the forefront, this is a movement that shouldn’t be compared. It stands on its own in several ways, and I appreciate the many independent qualities that are easy to love.

Featuring a standard 72-hour power reserve, the movement guarantees consistent accuracy and is perfect for everyday use. I’d like to highlight that a prominent component of this accuracy stems from its 28,800 beats per hour. In short, the movement isn’t missing a single step, including a mean daily rate of +5 to -3 seconds.

This isn’t a significant difference, but normal usage accuracy ranges from +10 to -1 seconds per day. You may not see every detail of the movement, but several of its 24 jewels are bound to be visible in the case back.

I’m always interested in the inner workings of different movements. The gear train bridge helps to enhance stability and offers a bit of design appeal to the exhibition case back. For those who don’t know, it’s Grand Seiko’s proprietary SPRON alloys that promise a stable accuracy rate and 72-hour power reserve.

I know there are many types of movements included with Grand Seiko watches, but there’s plenty to appreciate about each one. On the surface, the 9S64 movement may seem similar to many others, but it’s always the fine details that matter.

Part of what really sold me about the SBGW287 is its open case back, as I love to be able to view the movement any time I want. I feel it provides a much deeper appreciation for the consistent functionality seen on the surface of the dial.

Does the Strap Hold Up?

Including a matching burgundy color, I believe the crocodile leather strap on the SBGW287 is one of the biggest dividing factors here. I would say most people are used to the polished look of stainless steel or titanium with Grand Seiko. There are many reasons people don’t like leather straps, and I can see how that might be a bit of a turn-off here.

It isn’t a deal breaker for me, as I actually really appreciate the feel of leather straps. Nevertheless, crocodile leather comes with a unique look, and it definitely contrasts with the sleek design of the case.

Aside from that, it does help deliver a uniform look to the watch, which is always important. Leather can be somewhat stiff out of the box, but it doesn’t take long to break in the strap on this watch. You’d be surprised, but with the right fit, it can feel a lot more snug than expected.

The strap on the SBGW287 is 19mm in width, making it a suitable fit for most wrist sizes. You’ll also notice a slight shine to the finish of the strap. I find that this adds to the uniformity of the watch, as there isn’t a single dull detail, no matter which angle you view it from.

Even though I haven’t seen this myself, I’m confident a stainless steel or titanium strap on this watch case would be an outstanding choice. I’m never against swapping out a strap, but I’d prefer to stick with how the watch comes. 

While there aren’t any additional straps included with the SBGW287, the standard lug width makes it a viable choice for many people. My own preferences definitely lean toward a brushed titanium look, but the bold decisions in the SBGW287 make for a nice alternative in my collection.

The On-Wrist Experience

A leading factor in what makes this a great daily wear is the comfort of the crocodile leather. Without this, I’d probably keep it in a consistent rotation. Although I prefer a titanium strap, they aren’t something I can wear every single day.

This is a clear personal preference but an important note for any wearer to consider. While the leather makes the watch quite comfortable, you can’t ignore the overall boldness of its aesthetic. I can’t lie; the deep burgundy color isn’t something that works with every outfit. However, I’d still say this watch should be kept in more professional settings. From my standpoint, it just doesn’t look its best with casual outfits.

I do have skinnier wrists, but the dimensions of the case and strap make it more than suitable for mid-range wrist sizes. Of course, the leather strap offers multiple adjustment points, but this does come with a limit.

You could get professional adjustments for a leather strap, but this isn’t always the best choice unless you’re quite sure about your measurements. While I don’t find the watch to be overly flashy, I can see how someone else might think so. A bold color choice like burgundy isn’t for everyone, as it takes a particular approach to blend it with certain outfits.

As always, personal preferences influence how you wear a watch quite a bit, but this isn’t Grand Seiko’s most subtle design. If you like the color and descriptive feel of the SBGW287, it never hurts to consider finding one for yourself.

Pricing and Availability

Thankfully, you won’t have a hard time finding a Grand Seiko SBGW287. Widely available across the world, that doesn’t change the fact that you should choose a reputable retailer. You’re bound to have a few questions about your first wear, and you want a retailer that can get into the details with you.

One of your best bets in retailers for the SBGW287 would be Exquisite Timepieces. Their combination of industry and hands-on experience ensures you know exactly what you’re wearing.

Not to mention matching price points that won’t gouge you with markups. For what it’s worth, the Grand Seiko SBGW287 can be found retailing at $4,800, making it a great entry-level high-end watch to consider. This is a pretty fair price for a Grand Seiko, which means pre-owned would be even more affordable.

A decent pre-owned SBGW287 can be anywhere from $3,800 to $4,500 if it’s in respectable condition. Regardless of where you live, make sure to do your homework on retailers that’ll guide you in the right direction.

The Bottom Line

Grand Seiko is a name most people know, even if they aren’t necessarily a watch enthusiast. There’s a lot to be said about the brand, but their reputation is something that’s well understood in the details of their watchmaking.

The SBGW287 is among others in the Seasons lineup, but it makes a bold statement that helps it stand out from the rest. If you’re looking for an affordable, entry-level Grand Seiko that’s rich in color, the SBGW287 isn’t a bad addition to your collection.

Many horology enthusiasts and collectors appreciate the aesthetic appeal of a pristine timepiece. A fine polished watch can elevate a piece’s look, making the elegant stainless steel shimmer as it sits on your wrist. Polishing can restore a watch to its former glory, removing scratches and blemishes that develop over time. This can lead to an increase in resale value, as well as enhance the visual appeal. 

Like everything, however, polishing has drawbacks. In some instances, polishing can significantly alter a watch’s original design features, such as bevels and edges, potentially erasing iconic designs or historical significance engraved on the piece. Over-polishing can also thin the case, weakening the structural integrity and, in some cases, diminishing the value.  

Understanding the pros and cons of watch polishing helps collectors make educated decisions about their precious pieces. It also helps them balance the desire for a flawless aesthetic with the preservation of the watch’s original design.  

Why is Watch Polishing Important?

An essential part of watch maintenance is ensuring that your watch is in the most pristine condition possible. You’ve invested a lot of money into your piece, and part of that investment requires you to maintain its appearance and functionality. Polishing restores the watch’s original luster and shine, enhancing its overall appearance. This is particularly important for luxury watches, where the visual appeal can make all the difference in desirability and value.

Take a sunburst dial, for example. Its reflective nature means that even the most minor scratches or imperfections can be quite noticeable. Because the finish is designed to reflect light, any blemish can disrupt the smooth pattern of the dial’s surface, but polishing these dials helps restore them to the original vision the watchmaker had when they designed the piece. 

A guilloche dial’s complex design can benefit greatly from regular polishing as well. 

Deep scratches can compromise the intricate design, so it’s necessary to help maintain the detail that the guilloche is known for. Otherwise, the significance and value are depleted, and the guilloche dial loses its flare. 

Why you should polish your watch 

Depending on who you ask, polishing could prove to be the most valuable benefit to your timepiece. Some enthusiasts may insist upon a pristine-looking, top-of-the-line, well-polished watch, while someone else may prefer something a little more old school. Regardless of how you feel, there are some objective benefits from having a well-polished watch. 

The most obvious benefit is that polishing restores shine and erases blemishes that may have built up over time. If you wear your most prized timepiece every day, it’s guaranteed that, eventually, it will start to look worn and dull. A fresh polish can erase any sense of wear and tear and restore your piece to its former glory. 

A well-polished watch can also hold its value for a longer period of time. An expensive timepiece could be a long-term investment. If you plan to trade or sell your watch in the future, you’ll want to make sure it’s in pristine condition so you can charge the most money possible. 

Corrosion is one of the most common ways watches can deteriorate. The build-up of dirt and grime can completely diminish the look and value of your piece. Polishing can completely remove the harmful effects of corrosion, ensuring that your watch stays in its healthiest condition. 

Good polishing can also improve the clarity and legibility of the dial. With constant use, your piece’s dial becomes harder to read over time. Dirt builds up and smudges the crystal, and before you know it, the key function of the watch is deemed illegible. Polishing can remove dirt from the glass face of the dial, returning full legibility to your piece so that you can go about your day-to-day life always knowing the time. 

And finally, a well-polished piece perhaps serves the greatest purpose of all: personal satisfaction. What’s the point of investing in a watch you’re disappointed with every time you look at your wrist? Polishing can restore the aesthetic you originally fell in love with so that you feel pride whenever you look down and gaze at your beautiful piece. 

Why you should not polish your watch

While extremely beneficial to the watch’s overall aesthetics, polishing does come with its fair share of risks. Improper polishing techniques can scratch or damage the watch’s surface, particularly for delicate materials like acrylic or certain finishes. 

There’s also the risk of the watch losing its value. For vintage or collector watches, polishing can remove the original patina, which some collectors hold to an extremely high value. There’s also the risk of the polishing completely erasing a historical mark or engraving embedded within the piece, taking away the historical significance it may have previously held. 

The threat of overpolishing is ever-present as frequent polishing risks thinning the metal on cases and bracelets, leading to structural issues over time. The loss of aesthetics is one thing, but the damage to the watch itself is a much more severe risk that enthusiasts should be mindful of.

Warranty concerns pose a threat as well. Some manufacturers may void warranties if a watch is polished improperly, as it can affect the watch’s integrity and diminish its overall value. So, if you ever intend to resale or refund your piece, the number one priority is to ensure there is no damage or blemishes from improper polishing that could deter potential buyers. 

Another popular reason to avoid polishing your watch is simply personal preference. Some enthusiasts prefer a watch’s character as it ages, preferring a more worn look rather than a polished finish. 

There’s objectively no wrong choice when it comes to whether or not you want your watch to be polished. It all depends on outliers and personal preferences. The only thing you must be sure of is that you are getting your watch polished by somebody who knows what they are doing. 

Should you polish your watch yourself? 

If you have an experienced hand, polishing your watch yourself can have tremendous advantages and can be extremely convenient. 

The first clear advantage is affordability. DIY polishing saves you money compared to professional services. It also ensures that you can polish in your own time, basing your services completely on your own schedule. 

As with any DIY project, it can be a rewarding experience to learn about the intricacy of your watch and how to care for it. Just be sure that you have all the proper tools and that you know enough not to completely destroy the watch. Developing your skill through a DIY polishing project can be very satisfying when you successfully restore your watch’s shine and finally understand how to properly unlock the full potential of your piece. 

There are some drawbacks to DIY polishing as well, the obvious being the risk of damage. Scratching and damaging the watch becomes very easy without the proper tools and technique. Only pursue a DIY project if you have a careful hand and are willing to take the time to learn the proper methods. 

Of course, with your lack of expertise, professionals may prove to be the more efficient route. They have the capabilities and the experience to handle all sorts of pieces and the proper tools to safely polish your watch. You may not be privy to everything needed to properly restore your piece, but professionals know exactly what they are dealing with the minute you bring it in. 

As mentioned before, over-polishing is one of the most harmful things that can happen to your piece, and it’s a lot easier to over-polish than you might think. Let’s assume you know the tools you need as well as the proper techniques, but how do you know when to stop? You could end up doing everything right, but your watch still winds up in a worse condition than when you started because you didn’t know when to stop polishing. This problem obviously can be fixed by going to a professional, but—as with everything—you can fix it yourself if you take the time to learn. 

The primary issue is time. Sure, if you spend hours researching and practicing, you can mimic what a professional does relatively well, but the simple question is: is it worth it? Some of you may want to simply enjoy your piece and quit worrying whether or not it’s at risk of being damaged. In that case, a professional is the way to go. 

At the same time, some of you may be committed to learning every step and crave the satisfaction of gradually seeing your watch returned to its previous elegance. The only thing I advise is to be careful. There is really no wrong choice here, as long as you are actually committed to learning and are willing to put in the hours to learn the skill yourself. 

Conclusion

The decision to polish your watch isn’t as much of an objective yes or no as it is on personal preferences and outlying situations. It ultimately depends on the level of importance you place on your individual piece. Does it need polishing? If it does, is it worth learning by yourself? Would the cost of polishing be worth it? You can only answer these questions. 

Some factors that can sway your decision-making are understanding the watch’s material, its historical significance, and the individual priorities in watch care. Before you make your decision, be sure you have a clear understanding of the improvements that can be made should you polish it, the disadvantages and risks that could arise, and above all, learn everything there is to know about your own watch and let that govern your decision-making process. 

By balancing all this information, you should come to a clear choice on whether or not you should pursue the avenue of watch polishing. The best advice that I can give is the simple fact that what works for someone else may not work for you. If anyone tells you that there is an objective answer to this question, they are plain wrong. Just do the research and take the time to learn, and the decision will become clear.

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