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Taking inspiration from the vast blue skies above Mountain Iwate, the Grand Seiko SBGM253 offers pristine beauty with a unisex approach to design. It’s a celebratory release for the 25th anniversary of the unique Calibre 9S mechanical movement.

Considering it’s a limited edition Grand Seiko, you can assume it’s an automatic staple in the brand’s history. You can rely on the consistent craftsmanship of the brand, and the watch’s vibrant dial speaks to me more than many others.

Once I discovered that only 1,700 of these GS models had ever been made, I definitely started viewing them through rose-colored glasses. This review will highlight the ins and outs of the Grand Seiko SBGM253 and what makes it such a special addition to the GS Elegance collection.

Historical Significance of Grand Seiko SBGM253

The historical relevance of this watch is the fact that it’s the 25th-anniversary limited edition of the Grand Seiko 9S mechanical movement. It’s also found in the Elegance collection, meaning it will come with recognizable design choices.

More specifically, the GS SBGM253 is powered by the Calibre 9S66 movement. This can also be found in many other popular Grand Seiko watches. The SBGM253 doesn’t have a long history, as it was released back in October of 2023. However, I’d say it’s safe to assume that many enthusiasts have already got their hands on quite a few of them.

The watch’s overall design is inspired by the clear blue skies over Mt. Iwate, which can be seen from the GS Studio Shizukuishi. Once again, the watchmaker has blended significant moments in their history into a beautiful, timeless design.

Like anyone else, I like the idea of having a limited edition in my collection, but I have to know it’ll be a good fit. I was initially worried about the bright colorway, but the historical relevance to one of my favorite mechanical movements is what kept me interested.

Considering the role it plays in GS history, I’d figure that the SBGM253 will only become more valuable with time. Even with its significance as a limited edition, the Grand Seiko SBGM253 is still relatively available if you know where to look. With my first interaction, the case and dial were two aspects that I couldn’t stop looking at from every angle.

The SBGM253 Case

Starting with the case material, you get the quality of stainless steel. Although this is great for looks and durability, I’m not a fan of the weight that comes with it. Refined appearance nonetheless, it’s 39.5mm in diameter and 13.7mm thick. For me, this works just fine, but I can see where I’d make some adjustments for my thinner wrists.

When you add on the lug-to-lug length of 46.9mm, it offers a relatively compact look and feel. It also takes inspiration from the 62GS case without being a carbon copy. I always love Grand Seiko’s approach to Zaratsu-polished surfaces, as it’s always well-balanced.

Couple this with the brushed surfaces for contrast, and it creates a dimensional look that heightens its overall appearance. I’m happy they decided to give it a mirror polish on the fixed bezel, as this really supports a professional look.

The box-shaped domed sapphire crystal provides ample durability, and I’m always appreciative of the anti-reflective coating on the underside. Vintage aesthetic aside, I enjoy these small design choices that add to the whole experience for the wearer.

Better yet, all you need to sell me on this GS watch is its open caseback. It might be hidden most of the time, but I get a thrill out of seeing the mechanical movement function without error. You’ll also find the crown blends well with the case, as it’s almost unnoticeable with the distracting beauty of the dial.

Not to be confused with a diver’s watch, the SBGM253 still offers minimal water resistance up to 30m. Great for everyday wear, and shines to make a statement in any environment. I’m not really a fan of bulky watch cases, so the sleek sizing on the SBGM253 blends perfectly with my existing collection.

A Multi-Layered Look at the Dial

Easily the eye-catcher of the entire watch, the dial comes with a light blue colorway with a glint of a sunray finish. These specific colors embody the skies over Mt. Iwate and do an amazing job of capturing the look of a clear midday sky.

When rotating the watch, you’ll notice a light glimmer that comes off the surface of the dial. I truly appreciate how the color bounces off surrounding components for full-fledged vibrancy. The GMT hand offers a noticeable contrast due to its deep blue color, which is matched by the 24-hour time scale as well.

Although it’s hard to tell, the indices feature that same deep blue to contrast the surrounding stainless steel polish. I feel their choice of baton-style markers gives it a classic yet easily readable look. 

I’m a little bummed there isn’t any lume on these markers, but it’s not something I would consider to be a deal breaker. Placed at 3 o’clock, you’ll find a date window that blends seamlessly with the dial. It’s done so well that I didn’t even notice it at first until I saw it in the watch description.

A nice touch of contrasting color can also be found in the yellow-gold GS logo under the 12-hour mark. It’s a hint of luxury meant to draw the eye, and I appreciate it doesn’t muddy the beauty of the light blue in the background.

The fact that the sunray pattern on this watch is always visible brings me a simple kind of joy. Together, the light sky blue and sunray shine on the dial does an amazing job of representing beautiful open skies. Overall, the dial features the standard GMT 4 season collection look, with a limited editing approach to the finer details.

Celebrating the 9S66 Mechanical Movement

You can’t marvel at the SBGM253 without talking about the mechanical 9S66 movement, the star of the show. This is an in-house movement from Grand Seiko that includes automatic and manual winding capabilities. It’s built with a standard 72-hour power reserve, and I’m a fan of their inclusion of dual time-zone tracking.

I don’t travel all the time, but it’s a small detail they didn’t have to include, which makes it all the more special for me. You also won’t have an issue with accuracy. The SBGM253 promises +5 to -3 seconds per day when static and +10 to -1 seconds per day with normal use.

Smooth precision with time and functionality are big selling points for the overall quality of this watch. I really enjoy the firm feel of the watch crown, as it feels sturdy and doesn’t come with an overly jarring tick.

When you get down to the mechanical details, this movement only gets more amazing. Promising 28,000 vibrations per hour and the inclusion of 35 vibrant jewels, the movement matches its surrounding beauty just fine. That’s why I love an open caseback. It’s more than just functionality, and I find it to be one of the most beautiful components of any watch.

You might not notice just by looking at it, but the design of Grand Seiko movements comes with many considerations. They come with a mix of tradition and innovative technology to ensure we get the best quality without forgetting their roots.

From the limited edition watch to the included movement and choices in color and design, I find it amazing they hide pieces of their history in every layer. In short, the functionality of this movement adds to the everyday wear of the watch. It guarantees minimal need for manual adjustments, although you’re perfectly free to do so.

What About the Straps?

The case, dial, and GS movement are all focal points for obvious reasons, but I have the same meticulous interest in the strap. While stainless steel may offer a heavier feel compared to titanium, there is nothing wrong with its durable wear. It matches the case with a blend of brushed and polished finishes, which I found to be much more seamless than I expected.

I felt like my first experience with the SBGM253 was a lucky one, as it felt like a pretty snug fit. The strap does lack micro-adjustments, which was a slight disappointment for me but not a deal breaker by any means.

However, you do get the benefit of half links and screw links, which helps with slight sizing adjustments. I understand why everyone leans toward straps with micro-adjustments, but I don’t feel like that should be a significant deciding factor.

Don’t forget that you can swap out the strap if you’d like, but I’d be careful about this choice. The 19mm lug width makes the swap pretty simple, but I think the original strap’s design is flawless with the rest of the components. One slight difference in polish or design in a new strap and could throw off the entire ensemble.

This watch also doesn’t come with any additional straps included. The aesthetic of the strap on its own is gorgeous in its own right. Of course, it really shines as a compliment to the luxury and GS history the watch stands for. With the watch sitting on my wrist in all its glory, I find myself critiquing how it looks and feels in all regards.

The On-Wrist Experience

Similarly to many other Grand Seiko watches, the SBGM253 was crafted to be fitting for many common wrist sizes. The stock strap is best for wrist sizes ranging from 6 to 7.5 inches. This also explains why it felt so fitting for me, as my wrist size is somewhere in the middle here.

I really like the somewhat thick side profile of the watch and the fact that it looks sleek with a thin overhead. A lot of that comes from their choice to use a domed sapphire crystal. One thing I noticed about this watch is that it does catch on some of my long sleeves.

It’ll hide just fine in baggier clothes, but it might stick out more with professional wear. The SBGM253 is definitely one of the lighter-profile watches in my lineup, but it’s hard to ignore. Aside from the color and functionality, its significance to GS craftsmanship makes it look even better.

There’s no doubt I love this watch for many reasons, but it isn’t something I would wear every day. Merely from a styling perspective, it isn’t all that suitable for my daily wear. I’d also find myself sporting this watch in some seasons over others.

Due to the theme behind the watch’s colorway, I’d be more inclined to wear this during spring and summer. However, that doesn’t mean it won’t look flawless at any time of year. It’s evident that it’s built for everyday wear, but it wouldn’t be my first choice every day of the week. The well-balanced and sporty aesthetic of the watch doesn’t go unnoticed with the SBGM253.

Pricing and Availability

Luckily, it isn’t too hard to source pricing for this limited edition GS. At this time, the Grand Seiko SBGM253 retails for $8,350. If you happen to find a used one, you can expect the watch to still be in the $5,000 to $7,000 range.

The watch isn’t that old, and considering it’s a limited edition, there are many people who are looking to let go of theirs. Thankfully, the watch isn’t hard to find yet, but it’s important to work alongside reputable retailers.

With only 1,700 of these ever made, you should always question where you’re able to source an SBGM253. Once again, they’re still widely available on the market, but their popularity is bound to garner some false promises. 

This can easily be avoided by speaking with those who have been in the industry for years. Retailers like Exquisite Timepieces on the ins and outs from an industry and product standpoint. You never want to rush your decision with a luxury watch, but it doesn’t hurt to seek some guidance.

Final Thoughts

Grand Seiko is a name that most people know about, but few are aware of how many unique designs they actually create. Something like the SBGM253 could slip under the radar due to its limited run.

Make sure you try it on first, if possible. The vibrancy of this watch may not be for everyone, but it’s easily been my favorite blue ever since I put it on. Consider diving into the Grand Seiko SBGM253 and grab a piece of watchmaking history.

Definition of ‘worldie’; worldie in British English – someone or something that is of the highest possible quality.

I’m tired of hearing people say that 18k gold cases scratch up too easily and that they can’t sustain the wear and tear of daily rigors. “Gold watches are soft as butter,” they say. “You only need to look at one and it marks up!”. 

At the risk of getting immediately shot down by gold watch naysayers and those who swear by the rugged steel sports watch, I’m going out on a limb here to say that every collection deserves a gold watch. More specifically – a Grand Seiko SBGY002 – a “golden worldie”.

An In-Depth Review of the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGY002

Just as Coco Chanel would say, you can never go wrong with a little black number. I happen to think the same about gold watches. There is a reason why this alchemy has reigned supreme throughout the ages of watch collecting. 

Patek Philippe put gold watches well and truly on the horological map with a design for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary back in 1868. That watch made its way into the Guinness World Book of Records.

Some gold watches signify first-class refinement. Of course, brand reputation, build quality, price, and accuracy all matter too. Some can look downright tacky. But as true as the earth is round, Grand Seiko watches tick all those boxes as a given. Whether small, large, sporty or dressy, Spring Drive-powered or quartz-driven – Grand Seiko watches are some of the sturdiest you can own. 

Special hand finishes and exquisite case executions really give every GS competitor a run for their money. Oh, and then there’s the story element to each watch – many of which take inspiration from natural elements and the beauty that blankets the surrounding areas of the company’s prestigious Shizukuishi studio. 

In this case, it’s the snow-capped Japanese Alps of the Shinshu region, hence its Snowflake name, or in terms of the reference SGBY002, the yellow gold Snowflake.

The History of the SBGY002 – 20 Years of Spring Drive Heaven 

You may remember the launch of the Grand Seiko SBGY002 in 2019. Back then, the world was a different place. We’re talking pre-pandemic times before the watch industry boomed. During lockdown, consumers flush with cash were no longer spending money on lavish vacations. 

They were investing in collectible timepieces like loaves of bread. Faded bronze cases were the new black. Green dials proved to the world they weren’t just a fad, and the integrated steel sports watch just hit different back then. Still, staples like the Grand Seiko Elegance were keeping the classic dress watch in the game with designs like the SBGY002. 

The SBGY002 was a moment of genius that punctuated the brand’s history with a celebratory ode to one of its finest innovations of all time – the bionic man of all watch movements – the manual Spring Drive caliber. 

The beginnings of the Spring Drive movement twenty years prior were not so much a sporadic culmination of technologies but more a symbol of the brand’s unwavering strength at a time when digital technology dominated the industry. 

Indeed, it took a total of twenty years to incubate the Spring Drive. The brand’s Elegance watches stood as friendly, stoic reminders that not all was lost by way of mechanical engineering. Instead, what watchmakers needed to do was innovate something and ride it out.

Moreover, GS watches, with their textured snow-clad landscape-inspired dials and sweeping second hands, were still waiting for us on the other side. When quartz simmered down, a love for mechanical was once more reignited. 

While quartz watches will always offer an affordable, reliable alternative to manual wind watches and automatics, all three have learned to co-exist in equilibrium together including that of the Spring Drive, which kind of sits within its own bracket.  

The Movement 

Even if I do favor slightly edgier, off-the-wall designs than most, the majority of the timepieces I love are powered by automatic movements. That is, with the exception of the Spring Drive. The endearing thing about the SBGY002 is that it celebrates a timekeeping technology that not only took two decades to materialize but one that is now two decades old itself. 

And while quartz is a word seldom found on the lips of many horophiles, the fact that the Grand Seiko Spring Drive uses a quartz regulator without actually being battery-powered instantly makes things a little different.

It’s a hybrid movement that mixes the old with the new. GS decided that quartz didn’t have to be low-end. In fact, 80% of the genetic makeup of the Spring Drive points to mechanical, and the other 20% comprises a non-traditional escapement. Allow me to explain how it works in the best way possible without using too much horological jargon. 

The coveted Spring Drive is just as fascinating inside as it is to watch perform. When you see it in action, you can quickly understand how it has won so many accolades. On the surface, that sweeping second hand is liquid smooth and one reason why collectors become so hypnotized by its performance. Even better, it keeps near-perfect time. 

Mechanical watches use a balance wheel that oscillates back and forth to halt a set of gears and intermittently control the timekeeping pace of the mainspring. It’s a technology that has proven effective for years and years. But Seiko wanted to go one better. 

Instead, Spring Drive technology combines a magnet with an electromagnet that works against one another. On the one hand, the conventional magnet attaches to the rotor, and the electromagnetic counteracts by pulling away from it, thus acting as a brake.

The movement is slowed to the perfect graceful speed, giving the hand its recognizable butter-smooth sweeping motion. This lack of friction preserves the parts of the movement for longer than a conventional mechanical movement. All of this and no battery, you say? That’s correct. 

The parts of the Spring Drive movement form what is called the Tri-Synchro Regulator. Compared to a traditional movement, this masterful engineering uses 200 more components and they’re all arranged meticulously by the hands of Grand Seiko artisans. The Calibre 9R31 is a manually winding movement and was new for the 2019 release, offering a 72-hour power reserve and comprising 30 jewels. 

Through the exhibition caseback of the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGY002, you can see the power reserve indicator in the top left, alongside a satin-finished mono bridge, blued screws, and handsome chamfers that are deep and easily visible.

The Case

The 38mm Grand Seiko SBGY002 watch is thin, so much so that it has a natural affinity towards those with slender wrists, measuring a height of 10mm. The watch is graced with a beautifully sloped case line and endowed with lugs that sit 43mm apart from one another. 

This is king in delivering an overall compact and ergonomic fit for the wrist. Back in 2019, big watches were the order of the day. So, the fact that the profile of the SBGY002 honors the style and size of golden-era 1940s and 1950s dress watches is pretty special and unusual for its time. 

In response to those who say a gold watch is simply too fragile and that you can’t wear one daily, I would have to say that you’re wrong and that you can. 

And I have physically seen the condition of a worn Grand Seiko SBGY002 in the flesh, having been enjoyed on the wrist by a collector for years (sometimes for months at a time as said collector’s only watch). Its worn, aged look detracts nothing from the watch’s character and charm. In fact, it further adds to it.

The watch strikes a natural rapport with the wrist and wears exceptionally well. I have seen it paired with black tie attire, with tuxedos and lapels, and with a casual jeans-and-jumper combo. 

In all three examples, the watch looks stellar, and it’s all down to the exceptional finish of a Zaratsu-polished 18k yellow case. The technique harnesses the naturally slim, vintage-infused dress watch style of the SBGY002 with fluidly reaching lugs and a supple leather strap.

Handsome satin finishes run along the caseband, enhancing the watch’s slightly vintage-esque character. I’d say the longitudinal grain does go a long way towards enhancing the Zaratsu polishing on the lughood, too. 

The technique uses a spinning tin plate to achieve the mirror-polished finish known as the Zaratsu effect. Both Grand Seiko and Seiko watches showcase this type of finish, which requires the hand precision of an artisan to run the surface of the case along the spinning plate at just the right level of pressure and a precise angle. 

The result is an optically smooth and distortion-free effect (in other words, the equivalent of what the Swiss would call a “black polish).

The case of the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGY002 watch also features a screw-down crown at 3 o’clock, emblazoned with the GS logo, along with a conical bezel that gives way to a rather enticing dial effect. Grand Seiko equips the watch with a scratch-resistant and anti-reflective sapphire crystal glass front and caseback, along with a 30-meter water resistance.

The Dial

The non-uniform arrangement of the Snowflake dial is insanely artistic. Without even having to try, it evokes the snow-capped mountains of the Shinshu region surrounding Grand Seiko’s workshops. 

There are 80 steps involved in the making of this dial effect. Grand Seiko experts choose pieces of silver to achieve the flake effect of the snow rather than merely painting the display white and calling it “snow-inspired”. What this dial lacks in luminous material, it makes up for with its iridescent, shimmering, and highly textured nuances that entice the light to dip in and out of each crevice. 

Together with the polished indexes that are razor-sharp in cut, the dial shines in low light conditions, enabling it to bounce off uneven surfaces with ease.

This, of course, is the same famous dial of the SBGA211, sharing a similar light and lively randomness and accurately echoing the snow drifts of the Shinshu landscape. The fired blue lancet seconds hand complements a set of crisp dauphine-shaped hour and minute hands that are brought into existence with a diamond-like polish. 

Grand Seiko craftsmen use micro-metric diamond-tipped milling tools to capture a clean and contemporary profile of these hands. Meanwhile, the Grand Seiko lettering in golden tones adds the only other detail to the dial (save for the crisp black minute track), since the display is also void of a date aperture.

The Strap

The strap on a Grand Seiko watch is something that never seems to disappoint. No matter who I talk to about watches from this Japanese maison, people share the same view. Whether leather or bracelet form, every Grand Seiko strap feels strong, solid, and well-built. The SBGY002 is fitted on a very dark brown large-rectangular-scale crocodile leather band. 

The company’s crocodile straps are all made in-house using traditional Japanese techniques and comprise three layers of natural leather. The top layer is made from crocodile leather, while both the middle layer and the inner lining are manufactured from cow leather for a smoother and more comfortable finish.

Grand Seiko experts use a special cutting die to stamp out the leather before evening out the thickness of the skin for a refined finish. The monotone stitching is another really nice touch, as it gives you more options when pairing the watch with different attire. The folded edge profile, once flipped over, leads to the “Made in Japan” and “Grand Seiko” lettering, which is embossed neatly into the soft lining.  

The buckle is an Italian-made component, crafted from solid 18k yellow gold and finished with a nice polishing. The twin-trigger, spring-loaded release, enabling you to securely lock it into place before you leave the house, is quick, easy to operate, and matches the high quality of the leather band perfectly.

On The Wrist

I took some time to experience the Grand Seiko SGBY002 a couple of years back and was lucky enough to play about with a brand-new one. Here’s what I found.

Unusually, the leather band is what I want to talk about first and foremost. As I mentioned earlier, Grand Seiko has always impressed with its strap and bracelet designs. This leather band has an incredible buttery and worn-in feel, despite being a brand-new strap. 

Unlike the breaking-in stage required of most brand-new leather bands, getting acquainted with the SBGY002 is made easier with the incredibly soft, supple feel of its leather strap.

Because the strap already feels broken in, you don’t have to flex it back at all to secure the clasp into place.  It molds to the shape of the wrist like a glove to the hand. 

As you thread the tail-end of the strap through the keepers, it snaps into place, taking a lot of wear and tear out of the strap. I have to say that a strap that feels this worn-in from the get-go is almost certain to preserve the quality of the material for much longer than average.

The dimensions of the case are similarly pleasing. Sitting low, the SGBY002 will slink under the cuff of a shirt without a fuss, making it an ideal companion for office wear. I also believe that its slim proportions and its ability to sit under a sleeve will make it a great option for those with smaller wrists too. 

At 38mm in diameter, it’s not going to swamp the wrist, but the fact that the lug width is the less popular 19mm size means that finding alternative straps for the SBGY002 isn’t going to be trickier than shopping for the more common 20mm strap.

The Price

This timepiece is not cheap. At $25k, it’s not an overnight purchase for most. Justifying the price of the watch is not so hard, however,  when you consider what you do get rather than focussing on what you don’t. 

Grand Seiko may not be able to compete with the likes of Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet on a status level, that much is true. But while many have tried to develop a revelation as impressive as the Spring Drive, none have succeeded. Why is this, you ask? 

Well, the movement is an engineering marvel, and experts at the Japanese ateliers took years to research and develop the concept. That stands for a lot when investing in a mechanical watch. In-house manufacture sells.

Lastly, the Spring Drive hand doesn’t tick, it glides. And for avid mechanical watch connoisseurs, this is a very desirable feature. Add to the mix a +15 seconds-per-moth accuracy, an 18k yellow gold case, and a hand-finished dial, and all of a sudden, the price of the SBGY002 seems pretty reasonable. 

Still, there are more affordable Grand Seikos available, so it’s really about weighing up what you want in a watch. If dressy aesthetics and unparalleled accuracy are important to you, the SBGY002 is definitely worth it. 

But if you need a watch that can sustain the knocks and bumps of a busy working environment, you may want to prioritize a watch with better scratch-proof properties and reserve your GS watch for the more special occasions in life.

Wrapping Up

I’m not disputing that gold watches don’t scratch. But rarely will another case material imbue the same rich, indulgent flavor as a real gold timepiece. Perhaps life is too short to look past that gold watch you’ve always toyed with the idea of owning. Perhaps it’s time to take a risk and enjoy the allure and the flurries of nostalgia that a gold Grand Seiko watch can bring to the wrist.

For me, it would be a watch like the SBGY002. It can smarten up practically everything you own in your wardrobe and bucks the trend, putting that stigma of the gaudy gold watch to bed.  It is, in other words, the “Golden Worldie”, and a watch that I would say ticks everything box needed in a classic, timeless dress watch.

It’s common to find oneself longing for something just out of reach. Whether due to timing, circumstance, or practicality, the weight of temptation can feel almost unbearable. Nowhere is this truer than in the world of watch collecting.

With the exaggeration aside, let’s get to the point. High-end watches are undeniably expensive. Even in the pre-owned market, prices can be steep, making it challenging for seasoned collectors to find a good deal. But what if there were an entry-level option? A chance to experience a taste of luxury at a more modest price?

The Grand Seiko SBGP009 is an excellent entry point for those seeking luxury and precision without breaking the bank. This model demonstrates Grand Seiko’s dedication to perfecting quartz technology in a landscape where mechanical watches often dominate. 

It combines the best of the original quartz innovations with a fresh, modern design—offering a high-end experience at a fraction of the cost compared to their mechanical counterparts.

History

Although the first quartz-powered Grand Seiko debuted in 1988, the brand’s commitment to quartz technology dates back much further—nearly to the luxury brand’s inception. 

These early advancements would eventually inspire the team at Grand Seiko to craft a quartz-powered experience that redefined accuracy and precision, showcasing the brand’s dedication to innovation.

In 1969, Seiko made history by introducing the world’s first quartz-powered wristwatch, the Seiko Quartz Astron. Its debut showcased quartz’s superior accuracy compared to traditional mechanical watches. 

While the Quartz Astron wasn’t a Grand Seiko release, it set the stage for innovations that would eventually lead to Grand Seiko’s pursuit of the most accurate and precise quartz timepieces in the world.

About twenty years later, Grand Seiko released its first quartz watch, the 95GS. This model quickly set itself apart as the best quartz watch on the market, thanks to distinct upgrades made by Grand Seiko’s in-house developers, including an impressive accuracy of  +/-10 seconds a year. These upgrades highlight their commitment to precision and innovation, establishing the 95GS as a benchmark in quartz technology.

In its ongoing quest to create the world’s finest quartz watch, Grand Seiko introduced the Caliber 9F in 1993. This movement boasted key advancements, including mechanisms to minimize seconds-hand shuddering and ensure precise alignment with the markers, as well as an instant date-change feature. 

These impressive innovations established the 9F as a top-tier quartz movement, underscoring Grand Seiko’s commitment to precision and quality.

The 9F8 and 9F6 series of the 1990s underscored just how committed the Grand Seiko team was to elevating their quartz watches. They focused on making the movements as precise as possible while also designing the watches for comfort and ease of use. 

With these innovations, Grand Seiko propelled the status of quartz watches to new heights, demonstrating that quartz technology could offer both accuracy and luxury in equal measure.

The SBGP009 exemplifies Grand Seiko’s dedication to quartz innovation within the Heritage Collection. Released in 2020 as part of the 60th-anniversary Time-Only collection, it celebrates six decades of watchmaking excellence. 

Powered by the Caliber 9F85 and housed in the iconic 44GS case, it combines historical significance with modern advancements. Its champagne-colored dial adds a refined touch, making it an excellent choice for anyone seeking high-end quartz in a timeless design.

Case

The SBGP009 is housed in the vintage-inspired 44GS case, measuring 40mm in diameter, with a 47mm lug-to-lug width and a slim profile at 10.6mm thick. This classic design nods to Grand Seiko’s heritage while offering a comfortable fit for everyday wear.

The Grand Seiko Style watch belongs to the Heritage Collection, a fitting choice considering its case design. After the 1997 9F6 series introduced refined surfaces and enhanced comfort, Grand Seiko’s 2020 quartz lineup paid homage to the original 1967 case design, blending classic elements with modern craftsmanship.

The case’s curves and angles are designed to slant inward, allowing it to rest comfortably on the wrist. The inward-curved lugs also feature drilled holes, making it easy to switch out straps for a customized look.

The finishing on this watch is impeccable, embodying Grand Seiko’s philosophy that their timepieces should “sparkle with quality.” The skilled artisans at Grand Seiko have perfected the art of Zaratsu polishing, resulting in a mirror-like reflection that truly brings the watch to life. 

This meticulous finishing enhances the watch’s elegance and exemplifies the brand’s commitment to precision and craftsmanship.

The SBGP009 boasts a domed sapphire crystal over the dial and a mirror-polished bezel, with Zaratsu polishing across the case for that distinct Grand Seiko shine. 

The robust 11mm crown, positioned at 3 o’clock for easy grip, is semi-recessed to avoid wrist discomfort. With 100 meters of water resistance, this watch is a versatile choice for daily wear.

Dial

The SBGP009’s champagne sunburst dial truly evokes the elegance of the gilded era, reflecting light in a way that adds depth and warmth. It’s a perfect example of how Grand Seiko blends modern craftsmanship with classic, timeless aesthetics. 

The case beautifully complements the dial, featuring a polished bezel that enhances the dial’s design and makes it stand out even more. From a distance, the SBGP009 presents itself with that classic champagne hue. But as you bring it closer for a better look, the dial reveals a subtle gold shade, adding an unexpected layer of elegance.

A notable aspect of the SBGP009’s dial is its clean, uncluttered design. Unlike other models, it lacks additional details like lettering above the 6 o’clock marker or a power reserve indicator. 

Instead, the dial simply features the GS logo, which harmonizes with the champagne color, and “Grand Seiko” is elegantly printed in black. This minimalist approach highlights the watch’s refined aesthetic, allowing the essential details to stand out.

The hour and minute hands are beautifully faceted and expertly polished, with a flawless Zaratsu finish. Grand Seiko ensured this watch could handle the iconic dauphine hands by upgrading the movement (more on that later). 

The sharp angles and meticulous polishing add an extra layer of elegance, enhancing the overall sophistication of the design.

In addition to the hands, the hour markers are also highly faceted and polished, contributing to the watch’s refined appearance. The markers at 12, 6, and 9 o’clock are slightly wider, creating a balanced aesthetic. At 3 o’clock, you’ll find the date window, which seamlessly integrates into the design without disrupting the dial’s clean layout. 

The SBGP009 seamlessly blends elegance with advanced technology. Its Caliber 9F85 movement ensures that the second hand moves with flawless precision, landing exactly on each marker. Simple, graceful, and precise, this watch is a true pleasure to behold.

Movement

The Caliber 9F85, which debuted in 2020 for Grand Seiko’s 60th anniversary, represents a significant evolution in their quartz technology. 

Designed to phase out the 9F82, which had been in production since 2003, this movement encapsulates Grand Seiko’s commitment to refining quartz precision while celebrating its legacy. The SBGP009 is a perfect blend of tradition and innovation, honoring the past while advancing into the future.

Grand Seiko’s mission was to craft a quartz-powered watch that combined perfect accuracy with exceptional durability. Driven by this goal, their craftsmen and women worked tirelessly to elevate the quartz watch to a level worthy of being called a “luxury timepiece.”

The 9F85 movement, like its predecessor, boasts an impressive accuracy of ±10 seconds per year and a battery life expectancy of three years—a remarkable achievement for Grand Seiko. 

With several upgrades from the original, the 9F85 offers a modernized take on what could easily be considered one of the best quartz movements in the world.

The 9F85 truly embodies Grand Seiko’s innovation and dedication to quartz technology. By incorporating the Twin Pulse Control Motor, Grand Seiko created a quartz movement capable of handling the weight and complexity of the traditional Grand Seiko Style hands without compromising accuracy or battery life. 

This commitment to advancing quartz technology reflects the brand’s dedication to offering timepieces that can stand alongside mechanical watches in terms of both precision and craftsmanship.

The Backlash Auto-Adjust Mechanism might be my favorite feature of this movement. As a neat freak, I’ve always been bothered by seconds hands that miss their markers, even as a child. This feature ensures precision, satisfying my need for perfect alignment. 

The designers at Grand Seiko decided to fix that imperfection; a stuttering second hand that lands off its marker would be no more, thanks to an added hairspring, usually utilized in mechanical components.

The 9F85 movement includes an Instant Date Change mechanism, allowing for a precise date shift right at midnight. For frequent travelers, it also offers a Time Difference Adjustment feature, enabling the hour hand to be adjusted independently without interrupting the seconds hand, maintaining the movement’s accuracy across time zones.

Grand Seiko enhanced durability in the SBGP009 by incorporating a low-power IC that regulates temperature, optimizing battery life. Additionally, an upgraded shield protects the movement’s inner workings, ensuring this watch remains reliable for years while showcasing top-notch quartz technology.

Straps

The bracelet on the SBGP009 beautifully complements the dial’s aesthetic, with Zaratsu polishing extending across its surfaces, including the side bevels and clasp. This attention to detail ensures that the bracelet enhances the watch’s overall elegance and refinement.

The SBGP009 features a classic three-link Oyster-style bracelet with a secure three-fold clasp. While it lacks a micro-adjustment feature, the screwed-in links make it easy to adjust, ensuring a snug and comfortable fit, especially for those with smaller or medium-sized wrists. The bracelet’s design prioritizes both form and function, offering a well-balanced feel that complements the watch’s overall refinement.

With a 20mm lug width and drilled holes in the lugs, finding a replacement strap for the SBGP009 is straightforward and enjoyable. It opens up opportunities to experiment with different straps, allowing you to find one that perfectly complements the vibe of the champagne dial.

On-Wrist Experience

My first experience with the SBGP009 was a pleasant surprise. Unlike other Grand Seikos I’ve tested, it lacked the boldness and pizzazz of their mechanical and Spring Drive models. Handling it felt different—lighter and with fewer moving parts. 

The dial, devoid of extra lettering, a power reserve indicator, or a quartz-powered label at the bottom, seemed stripped of detail. Yet, despite these minimalist choices, it felt pristine and looked just as elegant as its counterparts.

After just a couple of link adjustments, the SBGP009 felt comfortable and light on my wrist. Its case design and curved lugs ensured a perfect fit. 

The minimalistic style truly shines when exposed to light; a well-designed dial interacts beautifully with its surroundings. Some dials perform better under artificial lighting, while others thrive outdoors, but this champagne dial excels in both settings. 

I would wear this beautiful piece everywhere I go when I have it. The SBGP009 can be worn around and handled for everyday activities. No, I wouldn’t go rock climbing or do any sort of physical activity with it on, but for a night out, a day on the boat, or a special occasion, this watch becomes a quartz-powered pièce de résistance. 

I was asked about it several times by those who liked watches casually and those whose eyes popped out when they read Grand Seiko on it. There is something so enticing about the simplicity of the dial and how good it looks on metal bracelets and leather straps. 

Pricing

The elegantly simple SBGP009 is available at a retail price of $2,600, with pre-owned options typically priced around $1,700. It can be purchased today at Exquisite Timepieces.

Conclusion

As a daily watch, the SBGP009 is an excellent choice. It’s an entry-level luxury piece for those curious about handling a Grand Seiko. While it doesn’t feature a Spring Drive or mechanical movement, it represents the pinnacle of quartz technology available today. For avid collectors, it adds variety to a predominantly mechanical collection. 

This is a watch that radiates elegance and excellence, with the ease of switching straps and bracelets to suit any occasion. The SBGP009 blends timeless design, Grand Seiko’s dedication to quartz innovation, and unparalleled craftsmanship into an elegant, versatile timepiece—making it an ideal choice for those seeking both luxury and daily practicality.

I’m quite happy to admit I’m a Seiko fan girl. The majority of my collection is made up of designs from this Japanese watchmaker, including several 5 Sports, Presage, Prospex, and Grand Seiko models. But most of the watches I own aren’t actually marketed towards my wrist. 

By this, I mean these watches are typically 38mm or above in diameter – but as a lover of an oversized timepiece, this isn’t something that puts me off at all. But, since Seiko and their luxury counterpart company, Grand Seiko, lack a lot of smaller women-orientated watches, it has sadly meant a lot of women – and men with smaller than average wrists – have missed out on an opportunity to wear one of these incredible timepieces. 

That’s not to say there are no 35mm and below Grand Seiko watches out there because there are. But the selections are a little limited. It’s why you’ll often find small-wristed folk opting for the wider selections of women’s watches offered by the likes of Rolex, Omega, and Longines. 

This is a shame because more women deserve to own and wear the beauty of a Grand Seiko watch. So, if there was one Grand Seiko ladies watch worth a second look, which one would it be? In my opinion, the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 is up there on the list.

The Importance of a Grand Seiko Ladies Snowflake

Okay, so let’s talk about the Grand Seiko Snowflake dial and why bringing the crisp white textured centerpiece into a lady’s watch was one of the best decisions Grand Seiko could have made. 

The Snowflake, originally launched in 2010, captured the hearts of watch lovers all around the world with its unique dial that beautifully resembles the look of freshly fallen snow. The texture is delicate yet strikingly beautiful, representing the serene beauty of winter in Japan. 

Because of its unique look, the Grand Seiko Snowflake watch has since become one of the Japanese watchmaker’s best-selling timepieces. But sadly, before the launch of the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 I’m reviewing today, the dial was typically housed within cases of 38mm to 40mm wide. 

So, by introducing a women’s version of the Snowflake, Grand Seiko has not only satiated those of us with smaller wrists but also opened the door for more women to step into the extraordinary world of Grand Seiko and, in turn, fall in love with more Grand Seiko watches. 

It’s a genius move from Grand Seiko if you ask me. It’s not just about creating a smaller watch – which, of course, we all appreciate – but it’s also about inviting more women into the landscape of luxury horology, allowing more people to appreciate the craftsmanship and elegance that Grand Seiko represents.

Grand Seiko’s Smallest Case

So since one of the biggest selling points of the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch is its dimensions, let’s start there. This release is one of Grand Seiko’s smallest dress watches, sized at 28.9mm wide and with a thickness of just 8.7mm. It also has a compact lug-to-lug width of 35.4mm. It wears incredibly well on my five-and-a-half-inch wrist, feeling comfortable and unobstructive. 

Without naming names, there are several watch brands I know of that tend to skimp on some of the finer details of their women’s watches. Thankfully, Grand Seiko is not one of them. They’ve constructed the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch with all the high levels of detailing and finishing you’d expect to find on their larger men’s watches. 

For starters, the case is almost entirely Zaratsu polished, a meticulous process that involves hand-polishing each surface to achieve a flawless, mirror-like finish. It’s a technique that takes up to three years to learn, seeing talented artisans hold the precious stainless steel metal against a spinning tin plate at a precise angle and with just the right amount of pressure. 

In addition to the Zaratsu polishing, there are also satin-brushed elements, mainly on the bracelet and the tops of the gently curved lugs. These satin-brushed finishes introduce a subtle contrast to the polished surfaces, adding depth and complexity to the overall design. This combination of finishes helps to enhance the dressy appeal of the design, bringing most of your attention to the bright polished surfaces. 

In a similar fashion, the dual-curved sapphire crystal glass placed on top cleverly brings your attention to the Snowflake dial at the center. The glass, with its seamless flow from case to dial, enhances the overall aesthetic and places the unique textures and details front and center. 

Sapphire crystal glass is also well-known for its durability and scratch resistance, making it ideal for those of you who want a luxury watch that will last. The inner surface features a layer of anti-reflective coating to help minimize glare, which helps you appreciate the snow-like texture of the dial even further without any distractions. 

The case of the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch is completed by a gently knurled crown at 3 o’clock engraved with the GS logo and a screw-down case back beautifully embossed with the Japanese brand’s logo and their iconic lion emblem in relief. 

Together, the crown and case back warrant a healthy 100-meter water resistance, so having this watch out in the rain or on the wrist while watching dishes won’t be a problem.

The Snowflake Dial

While the case dimensions of the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch are certainly a major attraction for those of us with smaller wrists, the real star of the show is, without a doubt, the iconic Snowflake dial. 

This mesmerizing dial has become synonymous with Grand Seiko, arguably putting the brand on the map for many collectors. What I truly appreciate about this watch is that Grand Seiko has ensured that the women’s version is just as spectacular as the men’s offerings without any compromises in design or craftsmanship. 

The Snowflake dial maintains the classic aesthetic that collectors adore, with its enchanting texture that mirrors freshly fallen snow. It’s one of those dials that draws you in, captivating your attention and mesmerizing you. Honestly, it can be a bit dangerous for me to wear a watch like this, as I often find myself staring at it rather than focusing on whatever task is at hand! 

Another thing I love about the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch’s dial is the simplicity of its layout. Unlike some of the larger models in the Snowflake family, this model doesn’t feature a power reserve indicator between the 7 and 8 o’clock marker. Instead, this release focuses solely on presenting the time and date. 

This design choice was probably forced upon Grand Seiko’s designers due to the lack of room available on such a small watch. But I’m glad that was the case since it’s a choice that adds to the watch’s elegance and allows the texture of the dial to take center stage. 

In keeping with Grand Seiko’s commitment to craftsmanship, all the hands and markers on the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359’s dial are Zaratsu polished, contributing to its luxurious feel. The hour and minute hands are elegantly shaped, sharp, and sword-like, catching the light beautifully as they sweep across the dial. 

Each hour marker is hand-faceted, showcasing the meticulous attention to detail that Grand Seiko is renowned for. The seconds hand is the only real touch of color, finished in stunning blued steel. Finally, the border around the date is polished and outlined in silver, framing the black-on-white date wheel with precision.

A Highly Accurate Quartz Movement

The Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 is powered by the Caliber 4J52 movement, a quartz caliber crafted in-house by Seiko. I have to be honest; part of me feels a little disappointed that they released this Snowflake women’s watch with a quartz movement instead of a mechanical one. 

After all, Grand Seiko is renowned for its exceptional mechanical watches, and it would have been a dream to see this stunning design powered by none other than a Spring Drive movement. However, the 4J52 is a trusted quartz caliber with impressive accuracy, with a deviation of no more than ±10 seconds per day.

This precision is a significant selling point for the watch, making it an excellent choice for those who appreciate reliability in their timepieces. Plus, it’s one of the reasons this particular Grand Seiko model is among the most affordable options in the lineup. While I would have loved to see a mechanical movement here, I understand the considerations at play. The Spring Drive mechanism, while brilliant, has certain limitations in terms of size.

For now, I’m content to embrace the accuracy and dependability of the Caliber 4J52. It provides peace of mind that I won’t be constantly adjusting the time, plus I can easily take it off the wrist for several days at a time without ever having to twist the crown or shake up the movement to get its power pumping. And who knows, perhaps one day Seiko will create a smaller version of their Spring Drive for us small-wristed folk.

Straps

The stainless steel bracelet is a nice and expected complement to the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch. It is predominantly engineered with satin-brushed surfaces and Zaratsu polished sides that catch the light beautifully. The polished sides are a particularly nice touch, especially for their slightly rounded silhouette, which not only ensures a comfortable fit on the wrist but adds an extra touch of luxury and sophistication to the design.

Following the classic Oyster design, this bracelet is narrower than standard GS models, which suits the delicate nature of the women’s Snowflake watch perfectly. The links lead down to a standard folding clasp embossed with the Grand Seiko logo in relief. 

It’s worth noting that the clasp lacks micro-adjust holes, which could make finding that perfect fit a bit more challenging. However, the design does come with drilled lugs, so strap changes are made easy. That means that if you want to switch things up, you can easily find alternative straps, like a nice leather band, to fit the 14mm lug width without problem.

On-Wrist Experience

Finally, let’s discuss how the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 wears on the wrist and how it felt on me this past week. First of all, this watch is ideal for everyday practicality. 

It’s barely noticeable on the wrist when your sleeves are rolled down thanks to the compact dimensions  — 28.9mm in diameter, 35.4mm lug-to-lug, and only 8.7mm in thickness – and the quartz movement. It’s almost weightless because of the latter, allowing it to disappear seamlessly on the wrist.

And yet, despite this, once the sleeves are rolled up, that Snowflake dial has a quiet confidence that attracts just the right amount of attention. The beautiful crisp white texture is a sight to behold, and during my time wearing this model, I received so many compliments on it. 

Because of this, although it wears effortlessly as a daily beater, you could easily get away with using this as a formal dress watch too. In fact, it’s the perfect one-watch collection, working well for pretty much any situation.

As for what wrist size best suits the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch, that ultimately comes down to how prominent you want the watch to appear. I have a five-and-a-half inch wrist, and it sat perfectly on my arm without feeling over or undersized. 

If you have smaller wrists and love something even daintier, then this would be the perfect watch for you. On the other hand, if you have large wrists but love the vintage look a small watch gives, then you’ll love it just as equally.

Price & Availability

As previously mentioned, the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch is one of the Japanese watch manufacturer’s most affordable models, retailing brand new for $2,300. If you want to purchase this model brand new, a quick word of warning: be sure to order from an authorized Grand Seiko retailer like Exquisite Timepieces. 

At least then, you’ll know you’re getting a genuine Grand Seiko watch with all the official paperwork and warranty. This is a watch also available on the second-hand market, typically selling for around $1,500. The watch remains a permanent addition to Grand Seiko’s women’s collection and is not a limited edition.

Conclusion

If you couldn’t tell, I think the Grand Seiko Heritage “Snowflake” STGF359 watch is beautiful and well-thought-out. But most importantly, I think it’s a wonderfully significant addition to the watch world. It brings one of the industry’s most coveted dials to women in a beautiful, compact form. 

This design not only satisfies collectors like myself but also entices new female enthusiasts into the horological community. Could this watch be improved by a mechanical movement? Yes. But do its small dimensions and insanely reasonable price point make up for that? Absolutely.

The avid timepiece enthusiast in me has always considered dive-watch culture as the most prominent experience in this hobby. The dive-watch was born out of a necessity as an essential tool, made for professionals doing jobs underwater for extended periods, during which the wearer’s life would depend on it keeping the correct time. Moreover, dive watches were put to the test during war times in the harshest environments; therefore, they needed to be built to last. 

What is most fascinating about dive watches is how their legible and robust design, in the modern era, has appealed vastly to a mature segment of collectors called sports watch enthusiasts for being elegant, sporty, versatile, and, most importantly, fashionable. 

Therefore, the nature of its existence, history, and relevance today has made the dive-watch special in my view.

A fan favorite in the dive-watch segment is Seiko, with a number of iconic and significant timepieces in its history that have inspired a modern tool watch collection that esteemed collectors highly rate. 

This reputation for greatness elevates the status of the Grand Seiko Divers collection, which aims to push the boundaries of great watchmaking further than ever before. It is known that Grand Seiko was essentially created for the Seiko Group to produce the best watches possible with its best minds. 

The watchmaker is famous for its usage of hand finishings and groundbreaking movement technology that have made its watches stand out against the competition. The Spring Drive 5 days Diver’s 200m SLGA015, the first dive-watch to release under the watchmaker’s modern flagship Evolution 9 range, is a strong contender to be its greatest dive-watch ever.

History

The SLGA015 is an evolution of an essential 200m water-resistant Grand Seiko Diver that saw its launch in 2008. This model started as the SBGA029 in stainless steel and SBGA031 in titanium, offered with a Spring-Drive Caliber 9R65 and later also with a High-Beat 9S85 Caliber. 

The model is still current, in newer references (SBGA463 in Titanium), following minor updates since its introduction. It met many benchmarks of the watchmaker, as it was the flagship and very first Grand Seiko Diver to be released. 

Its design was, most importantly, visually pleasing while drawing inspiration from Seiko Divers icons of the past; therefore, it possesses proven case lines and dial symmetries to make a highly legible and robust watch. Setting itself apart in luxury was its first time seeing a tribute in design to fundamental Grand Seiko grammar of design elements.

The SLGA015, unveiled in 2022, is the new flagship diver from Grand Seiko, as mentioned before, an evolution of the SBGA463 from the Sport Collection. The SLGA015 now sits within the Evolution 9 Collection, a range that evolves the grammar of style introduced since the 1967 44GS, with modern case lines, greater attention to detail, a more comfortable wearing experience, and the latest movement technology.

Case

The SLGA015 case lines have all the hallmarks of an elegant yet, robust divers timepiece. Its design best makes use of Grand Seiko’s lavish hand finishings while being faithful to the watchmaker’s grammar of design and evolving its lines into the modern era, as is the intended purpose of the Evolution 9 range. 

Its case is made of high-intensity titanium, a metal familiar to Grand Seiko. It is considered a superior metal for dive watches due to its lightness and corrosion resistance. Unlike other titanium, High-intensity titanium has a brilliant sheen and is finished to an incredibly high standard with Grand Seiko’s Zaratsu Technique.

Zaratsu finishing is done by hand to form the case lines of the SLGA015; this is how the sharp angles are crafted on Grand Seiko cases. This model’s more curvaceous case lines are elevated by its many facets, allowing for its robust shape to appear luxurious and refined. 

Its hairline-finished lugs are sleek and feature facets on either side and even its bottom, acting as mirror-finished bevels that glint in the light and reduce the visual heft from the front and sides of the 43.8mm by 13.8mm case. 

The curved side profile of the timepiece is hairline-finished and surrounded by mirror-finished bevels on the top and bottom, again reducing its visual heft when viewed from its side. The lugs on the right contour towards the center of the case form faceted crown guards for an engraved screw-down crown at 3 o’clock, allowing for 200m of water resistance.

The dive bezel of this model sees an update from its predecessor with a new “high grade” shatterproof ceramic insert. Ceramic is superior to DLC insert bezels because they have a luxurious luster and are impossible to scratch. The outer edge of the bezel features large teeth with a sharp knurling that is easy to grip. It is presented in two metal finishings with polished recesses and hairline-finished outer faces. 

The bezel action is crisp and comparable to the best in the industry. There is a lumed pearl at 12, and its minute markings are white in contrast to the black ceramic surface. A sapphire crystal sits flush in the bezel and has an Anti-reflective coating for maximum dial visibility.

Dial

The dial of this timepiece is inspired by the Kuroshio Current, also known as the Black Stream, that appears in the oceans that surround the Japanese archipelago. The Black Stream and its dynamic/violent tides inspire the deep black color and lavishly textured surface of the dial. 

This is visually the “main character” of the watch, seen in person, it is deceivingly alive in its three-dimensional guise. A black chapter ring with white markings in one-minute increments surrounds the dial and brings cohesion. 

Although beautifully textured, the dial also possesses all the right traits of a highly legible diver. All markers and hands carry generous coatings of Lumibrite. It also has a large handset and markers presented in a unique, legible format. Exclusive to the Evolution 9 models, this timepiece features a double wide index at 12 o’clock, with the rest of the markers following the typical dive-watch layout. 

All markers are multifaceted for the best presentation. From its center are aviation-style cathedral hands with a broad arrow minute hand. These are hairline-finished for better contrast. Its minute hand can be seen with a lollipop counterweight. 

A power reserve indicator can be found at 8.30 o’clock, displaying 5 days of power reserve. Finally, a white date window can be seen at 3 o’clock. Detail is not spared here as it has its own white frame and a lumed marker on the chapter ring beside it.

Movement

The SLGA105 is hugely defined by its incredible movement, the Caliber 9RA5, a next-generation Spring Drive movement allowing for an evolution within the Grand Seiko range, hence, birthing the Evolution 9 collection. 

The 9RA5 is far superior to its “still” highly impressive predecessor, the 9R65. For reference, when the 9R65 was released in 2004, it was the first spring-driven movement able to rival the accuracy of a quartz watch, with an accuracy of plus or minus 1 second per day, also offering 72 hours of power reserve; astonishing specifications for the time. 

The 9RA5 halves this accuracy to plus or minus 0.5 seconds per day, and its Dual-Size Barrels save space and expand its capacity to a 5-day power reserve. An Offset Magic Lever reduces the thickness of the 9RA5 by a considerably large 0.8mm from its predecessor, and moving the crown backward lowers the center of gravity of the timepiece for an improved wearing experience. 

Finally, a One-Piece Center Bridge increases its strength, durability, and shock resistance. Additional features include a hacking seconds, a date complication with quick-set, and a power reserve indicator.

Grand Seiko is able to lead the way in movement technology due to its vertically integrated manufacturing, which allows every component and even its tools to be manufactured and developed in-house. 

The watchmaker has a long history of its unwavering dedication to human and technology-related resources to offer the very best in innovation in the quest for accuracy, reliability, and value-driven luxury finishings. The watchmaker developed such an incredible “hybrid movement” like the 9RA5 due to its vast expertise in high mechanical watchmaking and industry-leading quartz technology.

Straps

The SLGA015 is exclusively equipped with a High-intensity titanium bracelet. It has a five-link design with distinctive flat links. Its material is not the only thing similar to its case, as it features primarily hairline finishings for a robust divers looks and durability and mirror beveling on the shoulders of its links to keep up with the refinement of the case; this aesthetic is in tune with the Evolution 9 style. Also in line with Evolution 9’s incremental improvements is its thicker and more solid build. 

The bracelet’s lug-to-lug measures a massive 23mm and tapers aggressively down to 18mm, balancing the visual heft and improving the wrist comfort of its large case. Drilled lugs allow for easy strap changes. However, aftermarket straps will be difficult to find due to the rarity of 23mm lug-to-lug watches in the market. Its links are removable with pins and sleeves, and there are several divots on the clasp for the ideal anchoring points of the bracelet. 

A ratcheting divers extension allows for incremental adjustments while the watch is on the wrist and can be extended over a dive suit if necessary. The clasp is a twin trigger release with a clamshell on top featuring an embossed Grand Seiko logo.

On Wrist Experience

Timepiece trends of today welcome the luxury dive-watch not only as an underwater tool but as a modern-looking timekeeping device that is versatile for almost any occasion. The Spring Drive 5-days Diver’s 200m SLGA015 is a formidable release for sports watch enthusiasts to consider for a go-anywhere, do-anything timepiece. However, it is let down by its performance-inspired “large” 43.8mm case diameter. 

The watch can be worn proportionally on wrists that have a minimum circumference of 16cm. Those who are close to this number, like me, will find the watch to look and feel overly sporty. Therefore, the watch will appeal to a wearer with a larger wrist or a wearer with an affinity for highly legible, performance-focused luxury dive watches.

While the timepiece is on the extremes of what my wrist can accommodate, the SLGA015 is a beautiful and feature-rich offering. Its design pays tribute to iconic dive watches of the past and from its own history, while offering a modern flavor, great attention to luxury details, and unique aesthetics; all factors the timepiece is expected to deliver. 

Its dial is its most distinctive feature, especially in the flesh, with a texture that tells a story about its nautical inspiration. It is dynamic, plays with the light all the time, and displays a high level of finishing that is a joy to explore. Its case and bracelet are also pleasing to the eyes, as their inherently sporty lines have been made beautiful with more facets elevated with Zaratsu hairline and mirror finishings that play with light and shadow. 

Its metal composition of High-intensity titanium is a high-tech experience on the wrist that allows the watch to wear as light as a much smaller dive watch. Additionally, its bracelet design and high adjustability are positive points for its wrist comfort.

The style of this watch is on trend. Its luxurious execution, and durable construction allow it to be worn in any environment and compliment any outfit. Be it in a dive suit, with super casual clothes, or even with a suit. When you witness the smooth sweep of its seconds hand, it is always a reminder that a beast of a movement lurks inside, able to deliver incredible accuracy.

Price & Availability

The price of the SLGA015 will amount to $11,600 as a brand-new item or can be found priced between $8,000-$9,000 pre-owned. Should you wish to try on or even purchase this incredible timepiece, you can find it at any authorized dealer of Grand Seiko timepieces. 

One such dealer is Exquisite Timepieces, and you can purchase the watch on our website or boutique in Naples, Florida. An authorized dealer is recommended for new or used Grand Seiko timepieces since they will most likely be able to have your desired timepiece in stock, have the correct expertise that can be relied on, and offer you added benefits like a warranty on your new or used purchase.

Conclusion

The SLGA015 enters a crowded and mature segment with the choice of many modern-day and vintage dive-watch icons, yet it is immune to the aura of even the strongest competition. It possesses the looks and the specifications of a performer, with a combination of a functional design, high-tech materials, and luxury finishings. It stands out with unique storytelling design characteristics implemented in a tasteful manner. 

Last, but not least, it introduces the next generation of movement technology from the watchmaker into the dive-watch segment, which within and even outside, is considered to be revolutionary and unrivaled.