Category: News

Attuning themselves to the authenticity of the changing seasons, Grand Seiko has made it their goal to speak with a voice that embodies the unwavering beauty of Japanese nature. Although the seasons may change, there is no reason we can’t celebrate the turning of the leaves and the chill of the air. 

Grand Seiko extends an invitation to the autumn weather with the SBGW285, aka the Byōka, which is named–quite literally–after a period when the late summer months begin to shift into autumn. The aesthetic of this piece mimics that change of season. The deep, green dial that you will come to learn about references the end of summer, a time when Japan’s vegetation is at its ripest. 

In Shigushuiki, where this watch was made, the summer is short, and the transition occurs at the end of August with early signs of autumn in the air. At this time, the leaves on the trees grow increasingly dark, which is what this style represents. The SBGW285 captures this change perfectly on your wrist, its favorable dark colors etching themselves in your mind so that every time you look down, you’re reminded of this beautiful time of the year. 

While we explore the intricate mechanics and the unique style of luxury that shrouds this piece, we will learn all about its deep symbolism and significance to Japanese culture, putting into perspective just how much passion Seiko pours into every watch they create. 

History

The Elegance Collection has the honor of being the home of the first-ever Grand Seiko timepiece. Since 1960, the company has been soaring, producing works of art that seemingly grow in quality with each release. 

In 2022, the SBGW285 was a welcome addition to the elegance collection, joining the ranks of legendary pieces that serve as a foundation for the entire company. 

Case

This vintage-style case will please those of you who prefer a smaller build, measuring in at a very compact 37.3mm diameter, 44.3mm lug-to-lug, and 11.7mm thickness. Taking inspiration from the original Grand Seiko watch from 1960, this stainless steel case is complete with mirror-polished finishing, giving the watch an authentic and elegant character that stays true to the company’s roots. 

The lugs are arched, giving it a curvy texture that complements the rounded case profile. The push-pull crown jets out from the side of the case, only offering 30m of water resistance, which is acceptable given the dressier nature of the watch; you’re not going to be diving in swimming pools with it on. I would complain, however, that the crown is a little too bulky compared to the slim dimensions of the rest of the watch. 

A see-through case back with 6 screws allows you to view the 9S64 manual winding movement, serving as the heart of the piece that powers each mechanical movement, giving it that flawless Grand Seiko feel. Sitting smooth and well-furnished, the shallow bezel resides below the elevated sapphire crystal, a beautiful, ascended double-dome that makes up most of the watch’s thickness. 

The contrast between the sapphire crystal’s heightened, bubble-like features and the bezel’s subtler nature highlights the entire case, giving it a unique flare that immediately catches the eye. 

With the majority of the thickness coming from the crystal, the rest of the case is given the privilege of being a little slimmer than we’re used to, which (depending on your taste) could be a make-or-break feature when choosing a luxury watch to purchase. 

Dial

Fitting with the “end of summer” symbolism, the Byōka’s dial is a rich, dark green that can appear almost black under certain lighting conditions. As summertime comes to a close, the winds may begin to develop a chill, but the scenery around you is still green and full of life. 

This dial embraces the change of seasons and displays what makes summer so beautiful. The dial is laced with a frosted texture pattern that blends nicely with the hand-finished indices’ polished surfaces. It is inspired by the Japanese kirazuri painting technique, which involves adding glittering mica flakes to print, resulting in a glittering dynamic surface. 

The kirazuri texture is designed to invoke the feeling of dark green leaves that begin to fall at the end of summer. In my opinion, the frosted texture gives the appearance of some foreign exotic material, like a high-quality piece of leather, that gives the watch a look of its own. 

When you combine that with the slender, stainless steel indices, it all makes for a luxurious recipe that immediately attracts the eye, not to mention the flawlessly crafted hands that round out the entire look, sweeping across the dial in an elegant motion. 

The Grand Seiko logo is very shallow and subtle, not too distracting but adding another aesthetic layer to the dial. This piece lacks a date window, which–to some–encourages the undeniable beauty of a minimalistic look, while others will miss the practicality of always knowing the date with a glance at their wrist. 

In my opinion, pieces like these that prioritize luxury greatly benefit from the entire “less is more” idea. Crowding a dial can sometimes harm a piece’s overall appearance, distracting us so much that we forget to embrace the beauty of the craftsmanship. The SBGW285 benefits from a minimalistic look, and the simple elegance of the dial breathes life into the entire piece. 

Movement

The hand-wound movement is powered by the Caliber 9S64, another testimony to the undeniable simplicity this watch radiates. It’s very well-decorated and adjusted at six different points to ensure extreme accuracy, which puts it a step above COSC. With a mean daily rate of +5 to -3 seconds per day and a normal usage accuracy of +10 to -1 seconds per day, the six different positions of measurement guarantee that you are getting the most accurate reading possible. 

The 72-hour power reserve makes this one of the most practical office watches. You can take it off to go home on the weekend, and it’ll still be the envy of all your coworkers on Monday morning when you put it back on. The see-through case-back allows for a satisfying view of the 9S64, allowing you to observe all its intricacy as it tirelessly works to provide a technologically sound experience, combining high-end technology with Seiko’s stand-out taste for perfect craftsmanship. 

Manual movements are ideal for this style of watch, as they fit the simplistic tone that the SBGW285 aims to embody, but don’t get anything confused, while a manual movement may not compare to the powerhouse Spring Drive, the Caliber 9S64 packs a punch of its own incorporating genius precision that every Seiko watchmaker is equipped with. 

Straps

The deep, forest-green alligator straps with a beautiful tight grain set this watch apart, giving it its unique look. Equipped with a glossy finish, the strap shimmers in the light and looks almost glazed, with an underlying style that is only revealed when exposed to certain lighting. 

Again, incorporating the idea that summer is coming to an end, the richness of the straps accompany the fine-tuned dial and case, rounding out the piece in perfect symbolism. The calfskin leather on the bottom perfectly complements the dial and is one of the most comfortable options for wristwear. 

Lightweight and smooth to the touch, it’s hardly noticeable on the wrist, and the pattern on the leather adds another layer of depth. The pin buckle with the vintage Grand Seiko logo is ideal for a vintage-inspired dress watch. While the drilled lugs make it easy to change straps, the 19mm lug width makes it difficult to find ones that will fit. 

But one of the watch’s most notable features is the strap’s high-quality leather that perfectly matches the rest of the watch, so if you want to change the house strap, you’re going to have trouble finding something that can top it. 

On Wrist Experience

The SBGW285 is a true, classic dress watch suitable for men and women alike. Its sleek, curvy build gives it a cleaner aesthetic due to the fact that it isn’t as bulky. The compact size and shape mean that anyone with a 5.5-inch wrist and above can wear it. However, it would start to look small on those with a 7.5-inch wrist or larger. People crave dress watches because they are a suitable match with any formal attire. 

They are an easy way to enhance your entire look, and the deep green dial and strap will go perfectly with any formal dresswear you have in mind. Paired with the fact that the watch is thin enough to slide under any dress cuff, I can think of no better watch that better suits the needs of those who prioritize style. 90% of the time, the green dial will appear black while it is on your wrist. 

While indoors, the lighting will make the watch appear much darker than it actually is. Whether that is your preference or not is up to you, but outside, under the right lighting conditions, the dial will explode, displaying the dark green to full effect. 

I personally like how the watch can take different shapes depending on the lighting conditions, but again, if that is not your preference, you may not enjoy this watch as much as others will. The strap also comes alive while on the wrist. 

The glistening glaze of the smooth, green leather can be quite reflective and vibrant when exposed to certain lights and quite dormant and reclusive when exposed to others. Regardless of the light, however, the watch still compliments the dial and case perfectly while also being easy to adjust and incredibly comfortable. 

My favorite part of the watch is how Grand Seiko weaved the symbolistic changing of seasons into their piece. The dark green looks beautiful in and of itself, but once you know what it represents, it makes the color all the more impactful. Pieces like this make us appreciate the turn of the seasons. 

Whether we are ready for it or not, change is inevitable. Grand Seiko encourages us to focus on the beauty of change and the impact it can have on us and everyone around us. 

Pricing

You can find the Grand Seiko SBGW285 from Grand Seiko authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. We only ship to the US and are authorized dealers, ensuring a 5-year warranty directly from Grand Seiko. A brand-new SBGW285 costs can be picked up for $4,800. Pre-owned pieces usually range from 3-4k, depending on the condition of the watch. 

Conclusion

Each passing season, Seiko gives us new reasons to appreciate their fine-tuned craftsmanship and unmistakable attention to detail. We’ve seen time and time again that nature is a prevalent theme in every piece Seiko releases. In Shizukuishi–where the watches are made–Grand Seiko’s studio is tucked away in a quiet little forest in northern Japan. 

With the stunning beauty of Japanese nature all around them, it would make sense that the inspiration for these pieces would come from simply looking out the window. Nature is powerful, and the unmistakable impact it has had on the craftsmen who forge these stunning pieces cannot be stated enough. 

Inspiration is passed down the line, as one craftsman inspires another, but Grand Seiko reminds us that the greatest inspiration of all comes from right outside our front door. I love symbolistic pieces that focus on the natural beauty in the world. 

Seiko encourages us to never stop looking for this natural beauty because it’s up to us to preserve the art that can be found in the simplest of things. Overall, great piece. A simple take on an elegant manual dress watch that packs its own unique punch. If you’re into green and looking for something comfortable and stylish above all else, this is the perfect piece.

It feels like watches have been around forever, especially with everyone’s growing love of vintage designs of late. But interestingly, watches aren’t as old as we might think. Compared to so many other human inventions, watches are a relatively recent addition. 

Believe it or not, wristwatches have only been worn for around 100 years. And before that, timekeeping was a little more… creative. 

But how did we go from tracking the time using sundials to wearing sleek, high-precision instruments on our wrists? The history of watches is more fascinating than you might think, with roots that stretch back to humanity’s earliest attempts to measure time. 

From the first mechanical clocks in the 14th century to the miniaturization that allowed for pocket watches, and finally, the wristwatches that became popular in the 20th century, each step of this evolution tells a story of innovation and clever craftsmanship. 

Today, I’ll be taking a closer look at the history of watchmaking, going right back to the beginning to see how it all got started. So, if you’ve just looked down at your wrist and randomly asked yourself when watches were invented, I’ve got you. 

When Was The First Watch Made?

Early humans weren’t exactly checking their watches to make appointments or arrive on time for work like we do. Instead, they typically looked up to the sky and judged the time of day based on where the sun was. It’s why some of the earliest timekeeping instruments were things like the sundial, which goes all the way back to the ancient Egyptians. 

They used the sun’s shadow to mark the passage of time during the day. There were also water clocks (also known as clepsydra), which the Greeks and Chinese used to track time by the steady flow of water. And let’s not forget the trusty hourglass, which appeared in medieval Europe. But more on these devices shortly.

Fast forward to the invention of mechanical clocks, and things start to look a little more familiar. One big leap came in the 17th century with the invention of the pendulum clock by Dutch scientist Christian Huygens. 

This was a major breakthrough because pendulums were way more accurate than anything people had before. But, as cool as pendulum clocks were, they weren’t exactly portable!

Enter Peter Henlein, a German locksmith and clockmaker from the 15th century, who is often credited as the inventor of the first “watch.” Henlein’s creations were called “clock-watches,” and they were small enough to be carried on the body, usually in a pocket, hence the name pocket watch. 

These early pocket watches, made in the 1500s, were the first step toward timekeeping becoming a personal accessory. The thing is, they were luxury items back then, reserved for the rich and fancy. It wasn’t until the late 18th century when the Industrial Revolution kicked in, that pocket watches became more affordable for the general public.

But alas, pocket watches weren’t as handy as some people would have liked. They had to be hung from clothing, usually on a chain, and often required two hands to use—one to hold the watch and the other to open the cover or read the time. 

As people’s lives became busier and more fast-paced, especially during wartime, a more practical solution was needed. So what about a pocket watch… but strapped to the wrist?

When Was The First Wristwatch Created?

It’s argued that the original inventor of the first wristwatch was Abraham-Louis Breguet, a Swiss watchmaker who, in 1810, crafted the very first timepiece designed to be worn on the wrist for Queen Caroline Murat of Naples. 

This wristwatch, however, was quite different from the wristwatches we know today. It was an ornate, delicate piece made for royalty. Truthfully, it was more of a piece of jewelry than a timekeeper.

For much of the 19th century, wristwatches were considered a luxury item and were mainly worn by women. Men, on the other hand, stuck to their trusty pocket watches, which were seen as more masculine and accurate. 

It wasn’t until the early 20th century that wristwatches became more popular, especially for men. World War I played a significant role in this shift, as soldiers needed to quickly check the time in battle without fumbling with a pocket watch. This practicality led to wristwatches being widely adopted by the military and, soon after, by the general public.

The Evolution of Watchmaking 

As we mentioned, Abraham-Louis Breguet crafted the first wristwatch in 1810, but it took some time for these designs to catch on. After World War I, however, wristwatches became the norm, and watchmakers around the world quickly followed suit, designing their own variations. With more brands jumping into the market, competition drove rapid innovation, leading to significant technological advancements. 

One of the biggest innovations came in the early 20th century with the development of automatic movements. In 1923, John Harwood created the first self-winding wristwatch, which used the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist to keep the watch powered without the need for manual winding. 

This was a game-changer for watch wearers since, previously, watches had to be manually wounded by hand. Now, as long as they were never taken off the wrist, they would power indefinitely. 

Then came the quartz revolution. In 1969, Japanese watchmaker Seiko introduced the first quartz wristwatch, which used an electronic oscillator regulated by a quartz crystal. Quartz movements were far more accurate than mechanical ones and much cheaper to produce, leading to the widespread availability of affordable watches. 

This innovation rocked the watchmaking industry for quite some time, and for a short while, it was thought that mechanical movements were gone for good. Thankfully, that wasn’t quite the case! It seems watch wearers now appreciate the precision of quartz and the traditional beauty of mechanical timepieces. 

Of course, today, we’re also in the age of smartwatches. With digital displays, fitness tracking, and even the ability to make calls and send texts, these gadgets prove just how far we’ve come from the sundials of Egyptian times.

How Did People Track Time in the Past?

It’s widely believed that the world’s first timekeeping device was the sundial, with evidence suggesting it was used as far back as ancient Egypt in 1500 BCE. Yes, that’s a long, long time ago. 

For it to work, the Egyptians would place a vertical stick, known as a gnomon, in the ground and observe the shadow it cast to determine the time of day based on the sun’s position. 

As the sun moved across the sky, the shadow shifted, giving a rough estimate of the hour. Sundials were widely used in ancient Greece and Rome as well, but they only worked during daylight hours and, of course, required a sunny day. 

To address the limitations of sundials, ancient civilizations like the Greeks and Chinese developed the water clock, also called a clepsydra. The water clock used the steady flow of water from one container to another to measure the passage of time. 

These clocks were used as early as 4000 BCE in Babylon and Egypt. The Greeks later improved the design, adding gears and scales to make them more accurate. While they could be used during the day and night, they were still prone to inaccuracy due to temperature variations affecting the flow of water. 

Then came the hourglass, also known as a sandglass. This timekeeping device emerged in medieval Europe, though its exact year of invention is unclear. It likely appeared in the 8th century and became popular by the 14th century. 

Hourglasses work by allowing sand to flow from one bulb to another at a steady rate, measuring specific increments of time. Unlike sundials and water clocks, hourglasses were portable and more reliable, but they had to be manually reset after each use.

Conclusion

Timekeeping has come a long way from ancient sundials and water clocks. It was the brilliant Christian Huygens who, in 1656, created the pendulum clock, marking a huge leap in timekeeping accuracy. 

Then, in the early 19th century, master watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet designed the first wristwatch, setting the stage for the stylish and practical timepieces we love and wear today. From tracking the sun to wearing time on our wrists, it’s fascinating to see how our need to measure time has shaped history. I wonder what will come next…

The Grand Seiko “Snowflake” is arguably one of the Japanese watchmaker’s most popular and iconic models. It’s a watch that embodies the elegance and craftsmanship that Grand Seiko is renowned for, featuring a charming dial design that mimics the beauty of freshly fallen snow. However, due to its high craftsmanship and limited availability, the Grand Seiko Snowflake is not as easily accessible as watch enthusiasts would like. 

And yet, a watch that bears a striking resemblance to the essence of the Snowflake, yet one that doesn’t carry its prestigious nickname, is the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269. 

This model showcases an equally refined aesthetic, enhanced functionality, and a snow-inspired dial texture, making it an appealing alternative for those seeking the sophistication of the Grand Seiko Snowflake without the scarcity associated with it.

The Grand Seiko Four Seasons GMT Collection

For as long as I’ve been following the work of Grand Seiko, nature has played a significant role in their designs. There’s something rather beautiful about the thought of Grand Seiko designers simply looking out the windows of the company’s manufacturing facilities and drawing inspiration from the weather and flora found right outside their windows. 

The Grand Seiko Snowflake has always epitomized the brand’s love of nature, beautifully mirroring the purity of freshly fallen snow in the mountains surrounding the Grand Seiko factory in Shizukuishi. 

Other popular models worthy of mention are the Grand Seiko White Birch Shirakaba SLGH005, which has a breathtaking dial inspired by the texture and color of the birch trees found outside their studio, and the Grand Seiko Spring Drive “Omiwatari” SBGY007, which mimics the texture of Lake Susa when its water freezes during the winter. 

It’s clear that their connection to nature has become a signature aspect of the brand, leading to the creation of numerous models inspired by the textures and colors found in the natural world. 

More recently, Grand Seiko introduced the Four Seasons Collection, which again cements their commitment to nature-inspired design. The non-limited series draws inspiration from the different colors of Japan’s changing seasons. 

Whereas we simply measure the seasons in spring, summer, autumn, and winter, in Japanese culture, they divide the year into 24 smaller segments known as sekki, with each of the watches in the Four Seasons collection representing one of these sekki. 

The Grand Seiko Four Seasons collection was first introduced in 2019 and featured a quartet of time-and-date-only models with colorful and textured dials inspired by “Taisetsu”, the deep snow of winter, “Shunbun”, the vernal equinox, “Rikka”, early summer and “Shubun”, the autumnal equinox. 

Shortly after, Grand Seiko expanded the series further by adding more dial colors and additional GMT complication into this mix. And so, in 2021, the Grand Seiko Four Seasons GMT collection was born. 

Once again, the watches in this collection represent four different sekki. The line-up includes the Hi-Beat 36000 powered “Shunbun” SBGJ251 and “Shosho SBGJ249, and two Spring Drive-powered watches called “Kanro” SBGE271 & “Toji” SBGE269. 

It’s the latter that I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing this week, and with a dial inspired by the winter solstice, I have forgiven myself for originally thinking this was a Grand Seiko Snowflake when I first opened the box.

A Crisp-As-Snow Steel Case

Like all the models in the Grand Seiko Four Seasons GMT collection, the case of the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch is slightly based on the original 62GS case from the 1960s. Much like the original, we have a soft, curved silhouette with a gently sloping bezel and refined lugs that beautifully highlight the watch’s polished surfaces. 

But as you’ll have probably noticed, the dimensions of this watch are a little more modern, coming in at 40.2mm wide and with a thickness of 14mm. It’s a well-sized watch that will suit most wrists. The lug-to-lug is 48.5mm, and if you count the end links, I measured it sitting at 51.2mm across. 

As for finishing, no expense is spared as usual from Grand Seiko. Much of the case is polished using a technique the Japanese watch brand calls Zaratsu polishing. It involves holding the stainless steel surface against a spinning tin plate using just the right amount of pressure and angle to create these beautiful mirror-like finishes. 

It’s a technique that takes about three years to learn, ensuring that only the most skilled artisans, known as Takumi, are entrusted with this meticulous process. It’s also a process typically reserved for small movement parts, so seeing it on a macro scale across an entire case is truly exceptional. Getting a fully hand-finished watch at this price is not a common sight. 

A few smaller portions of the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch’s case are brushed, creating a visual of light play and contrasts. Other than its finishing, the most visually noticeable part of the case is the sapphire crystal glass. 

It’s one that is dramatically domed, adding to the watch’s 1960s-inspired heritage. It’s also this that adds to the larger 14mm thickness. Despite giving off the appearance of vintage plexiglass, the material is super scratch-resistant and treated with an anti-reflective coating on the inner surface for legibility. Ultimately, you get the period feel without any of the compromises that come with real vintage watches. 

Completing the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch’s retro personality is the signed crown placed at 3 o’clock. Not quite an onion crown, but still relatively prominent in size and boasting a slightly domed and fully knurled exterior, it adds to the watch’s vintage charm while ensuring functionality. This screw-in crown enhances the watch’s water resistance, providing an impressive 100 meters of protection against the elements.

A Winter Solstice Dial

Easily, my favorite part of the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch is the dial. Nicknamed “Toji” after one of Japan’s twenty-four sekki that marks the winter solstice, the hammered silvered white texture has a beautiful, almost random grain inspired by the texture and color of snow as it shines in the sunlight of the winter solstice. 

It’s one of those dials you really need to see in person to appreciate, and no matter how hard I try, it’s impossible for me to find the words to describe its beauty accurately. 

The texture is larger and deeper than those seen on the popular Grand Seiko Snowflake watches but still has the same ethereal quality that instantly catches your eye. I love it, and I urge anyone reading this remotely tempted by its finish to go see this at your local authorized Grand Seiko retailer. 

For the hands and markers, Grand Seiko has once again elected hand-finishing for all the hardware. The dauphine-styled hour and minute hands are beautifully sharp with a combination of brushed and polished finishing, much like each hour marker, which is faceted with polished faces and brushed exteriors.

In contrast, the GMT hand is finished in a wonderful shade of rose gold to evoke the last rays of an evening sun. It’s a beautiful pop of color against an otherwise monochromatic dial and adds a touch of warmth and elegance to the overall aesthetic. We have the same color marking the GMT text at 6 o’clock, further tying together the dial’s design elements. 

The dial is also home to a 72-hour power reserve indicator, but Grand Seiko has ingeniously chosen to print it onto the dial’s textured surface rather than opting for a sunken scale. This decision preserves the watch’s clean lines and enhances the visual depth, allowing the textured background to play a prominent role in the overall design. 

The result is a more concise and subtle look that seamlessly integrates all the features without overwhelming the eye. It also brings the power reserve indicator in line with the printed black railway track found around the dial’s circumference. 

Another clever addition to the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch’s dial is the 24-hour scale. 

Compared to the SBGJ249 and SBGJ251 models in the same collection, the 24-hour markers have been moved to the minute track to help the dial breathe a bit more and not feel cluttered. We’re also treated to a box-shaped date window positioned at 3 o’clock and the applied GS logo at 12 o’clock.

A Spring Drive Movement

Alongside a completely hand-finished case and dial, we also have a movement that’s been built, tuned, and – when necessary – serviced entirely in-house by Grand Seiko. The movement in question is the Caliber 9R66, an automatic winding Spring Drive movement that represents one of Grand Seiko’s most innovative achievements. 

The Spring Drive combines the precision of a quartz movement with the mechanical beauty of a traditional automatic movement. Unlike conventional mechanical movements, which rely on a balance wheel and escapement, the Spring Drive caliber uses a unique “tri-synchro regulator” system. 

This regulates the movement by using a mainspring for power, just like a mechanical watch, but instead of an escapement, it uses an electromagnetic brake that works with a quartz crystal for precise timekeeping. 

This allows for incredible accuracy, with a deviation of only +/-1 seconds per day or +/- 15 seconds per month. It also delivers the signature smooth, gliding seconds hand that is famously a hallmark of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive watches. 

The Caliber 9R66 also features a GMT complication, allowing for the tracking of a second timezone, and boasts a 72-hour power reserve. There’s also a hacking seconds function, 30 jewels, and manual winding capability should you wish to see the power reserve indicator operate before your eyes. 

Turning the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch around, and you can admire the Spring Drive movement for yourself, including its handsomely striped oscillating rotor and bridges.

A Hybrid Bracelet

Completing the exterior of the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch is a classic full stainless steel bracelet. Its design is almost like a hybrid of a dress and sports bracelet. It has the beautiful, rolled flanks and the polished intermediates of a dress bracelet but then a sturdy three-row link architecture similarly styled to the Rolex Oyster bracelet. 

The surface of each link is brushed in the same direction as the bracelet falls, leading down towards a single-fold deployment clasp with twin trigger release. 

Sadly, the bracelet doesn’t come with any micro-adjustment, but we are given two half-links on either side to get a near-perfect fit. There’s also screw links to make adjustments easier and drilled lugs, so should you wish to swap out the strap for something different, that won’t be too much of a task. That said, Grand Seiko has elected a lug width of 19mm, which is a little awkward for finding replacement watch bands.

On-Wrist Experience 

The Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 is easily one of those “throw-on-and-go” watches. Its dimensions make it very wearable across a wide variety of wrist sizes. I’d recommend it for anyone with wrists as small as six inches and as large as eight inches. 

But please, if you don’t fall within that range, don’t let it put you off. If you have smaller wrists but love the oversized look, or if you have larger wrists and appreciate a more vintage vibe, this watch could still work beautifully for you. Plus, you can always swap out the metal bracelet for a leather strap to tone down its presence and make it feel a bit more understated. 

It is a thick watch, measuring 14mm tall, primarily due to the domed sapphire crystal. Unfortunately, this means it may not slide easily under the cuff of a dress shirt unless the cuffs are loose. Instead, it gives off more of a daily-beater or sports watch vibe, though it can still be worn for dressier occasions, thanks to that brilliant textured dial.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch retails brand new for $6,000. We always recommend purchasing your Grand Seiko watches through one of the brand’s authorized retailers, like Exquisite Timepieces. 

This way, you can sport your new timepiece knowing it’s the real deal and it’s arrived with all the official paperwork and warranty. You can also find this model on the second-hand market for around $4,500 if you’re working with a smaller budget. 

Thankfully, unlike so many of the Grand Seiko Snowflake watches, this winter-inspired release is a non-limited edition, and there’s plenty of availability at the time of writing this! But keep in mind this is a watch that has been out for three years now, so if it’s one you’ve fallen in love with, I recommend snapping it up as soon as you can, just in case Grand Seiko suddenly decides to discontinue it.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 is hands down one of the most beautiful Grand Seiko watches I’ve had the pleasure of trying on recently. If you’re someone who’s been captivated by the magic of the Grand Seiko Snowflake but hasn’t quite found the budget or the right model for you, this could be the perfect watch. The crisp white textured dial is absolutely breathtaking and really stands out as a centerpiece.

As I mentioned earlier, I strongly urge anyone who’s even somewhat interested to go see this watch in person. The way the light plays off the dial, the rich texture, and those subtle hand-finished elements are something you truly have to experience up close. I guarantee you’ll get lost in its details just as much as I did!

Back in 2020, traveling, either with or without a GMT watch strapped to your wrist, was beginning to feel like a distant memory for many of us. 

But in the years following the pandemic, the demand for GMT watches and the desire for a holiday returned with full force, putting brands like Grand Seiko right at the forefront of that need. Why, you ask? Because Grand Seiko does a superb GMT watch. That’s why today we’ll be looking at the reference SBGJ251 – the “Shunbun”.

What Is a GMT Watch?

Maybe you spend a lot of your working week at a desk organizing overseas conference calls and confusing greetings of “Good Morning” with “Good Evening” because, let’s face it, keeping track of multiple time zones across the world is not easy. 

Or maybe you travel frequently on business? Either way, there’s a good chance you’ll have pondered buying a watch for travel to assist with your organizational skills. Maybe you own several already, and you’re looking to expand your collection with another? 

Either way, travel watches are considered a necessity by many luxury watch enthusiasts since they’re multifunctional, and they look so stylish. 

There are different layouts and names used for travel watches, but the most common is the GMT. The name “GMT” derives from Greenwich Mean Time – the local mean time at Greenwich, London, by which other countries in the world use as a zero reference point to determine whether they are “X” amount of hours ahead or “X” amount of hours behind. 

This style of watch features a fourth hour hand that relays the time in a different location of the world. More often than not, this special hand is highlighted in a vibrant color or tipped with a triangular motif, enabling you to quickly distinguish it when looking at home time versus current time. 

Many GMT watches also feature a bi-color (or two-tone) bezel to help you differentiate between daytime and night-time hours in the 24-hour format, but not all, as we’ll soon see in the design of the Grand Seiko “Shunbun”.

In a nutshell, GMT watches are a very practical complication, owing to their immense popularity across the watch-collecting community. People love the distinctive style of these travel watches and the value they bring to the wrist on a functional level. 

The magic of reading a watch like the SBGJ251 is that you can read the time in two different time zones. You can check the time where you currently are and compare it to where you were at a glance. In all the brand’s main collections, you can find a GMT watch. 

Some examples include the sporty SBGJ237, with a striking blue and white 24-hour bezel, or the SBGJ021, with a deep rusty red dial and a peach-colored travel hand. Case in point, GMT watches come in many varieties, styles, and colors.   

The History of the SBGJ251 

To understand why the reference SBGJ251 is one of the most popular GMT watches to collect from Grand Seiko’s ever-evolving range, we need to look at the origins of the collection. Back in 2019, the watchmaker released four different but equally stunning designs, forming the entrancing Four Seasons watch collection, with dials inspired by nature itself. 

Anyone already familiar with Grand Seiko will know that the Japanese watchmaker has based many of its most elegant timepieces on elements taken from the natural surroundings of its prestigious Shinshu Watch Studio. 

In particular, the models from the Four Seasons collection focus on the changing seasons and the transitional periods between those months. The Grand Seiko SBGJ251 became part of this story.

The Four Seasons Collection

The Four Seasons collection first came into existence with the launch of those four very important models. Each one took direct inspiration from the four seasons of the year: Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter. 

For some background to this review, those models include the “Shunbun”, highlighted by the gentle pink-colored blossoms that fall from the cherry blossom tree into the water on a Spring morning. 

Also, the “Rikka” timepiece reflects the rich green shades of the luscious land across Japan when ripples of grass dance in the warm Summer winds. For Autumn, Grand Seiko chose the “Shubun” timepiece – a dial inspired by the dimming light of dusk and the arrival of a moonlit sky in The Fall during the autumnal equinox. The Grand Seiko “Taisetsu” was a timepiece that captivated its wearer with a dial evoking the silences of fallen, glistening slowly in Winter.

These models, released in 2019, are based on the 62GS design, but one of the most alluring features of those first four designs is that they follow the Japanese concept of “Sekki”. 

Rather than viewing the phases of the year in four set blocks, the models within the Four Seasons collection detail the 24 individual phases of the year – 6 phases for each quarter. 

The Elegance DNA

The Four Seasons models belong to a much larger design concept, Grand Seiko’s Elegance collection. While the Sports collection from Grand Seiko offers slightly more aggressive models (with sharp angles that capture the ever-popular steel sports watch aesthetic) and the Heritage collection honors some important historical landmarks for Grand Seiko – the Elegance collection is somewhat different. In this series, you can find classic dress watch styles, like the SBGJ251, that are perfect for formal occasions and special events.

That said, the Elegance line is also one of the most overlooked of Grand Seiko’s categories. For reasons unknown, they sometimes fly under the radar. Thanks to the level of finishing in one of these Grand Seiko watches and the superior materials used in every design, they also make for great daily beaters!  

Here, we arrive at the Grand Seiko “Shunbun” SBGJ251. A daily-wearer with dress watch aesthetics that is also a GMT, inspired by an important part of the year – the Spring Equinox.

My Review of the Grand Seiko SBGJ251 “Shunbun”

The Grand Seiko SBGJ251 “Shunbun” was released in 2021 and, in my opinion, perfectly sums up the spirit and elegance of the Four Seasons collection, taking influences from nature and re-writing the notion of the modern dress watch. The model is refined and classic but with a very functional advantage in that it combines a GMT complication. Here’s a more detailed look at the watch after some time spent handling it. 

The Case 

One thing I really like about this model is how Grand Seiko opts for a boxed sapphire crystal glass. What that does is it allows the hands to sit further into the crystal cavity and creates the impression, from some angles, that the hands are almost floating. This is a more costly finish than a standard glass fitting. 

While standard glass fronts may measure a thickness of around 2-3mm, a boxed sapphire arrangement will actually take up around double that much in thickness. Grand Seiko experts will require the skill of a CNC machine to shave and shape the crystal. Understandably, all of this adds to the manufacturing costs of a Grand Seiko, but simultaneously, it goes some way to achieving a unique and sought-after design.

One drawback of sapphire crystal compared to acrylic crystal, however, is that it doesn’t boast the same level of clarity. Like many luxury watch manufacturers, Grand Seiko remedies this by adding layers of anti-reflective technology to the surface of the glass, promising a clear and crisp view of the SBGJ251 model’s mesmerizing green dial. 

Now, let’s move on to the proportions of the watch. The stainless steel case of the SBGJ251 “Shunbun” measures a diameter of 39.5mm, making for a considerably compact size for those with small-ish wrists. The 30-meter water-resistant case has an unusually thick caseback, even for Grand Seiko standards, measuring 14.1mm thickness. 

I’ll talk a little more about how that impacts the wrists a little later on. But overall, this is a classically inspired, albeit modern watch, which Grand Seiko experts manage to balance perfectly. On the one hand, the shape and layout of the dial are traditional-looking, but on the other, those Zaratsu polished finishes evoke an unequivocally modern presence. 

Zaratsu polishing is a case finish that, in my opinion, supersedes a lot of the more common executions you see on timepieces of a similar price. Quite simply, the finishing is next level. This complicated and sophisticated polishing process is responsible for the razor-sharp, angular polishes that you see across the surface of this case. 

They elevate the design to a resolutely dressy style while at the same time reflecting and playing with light in a rather unique way. The technique takes its name from an old European machine called Sallaz and helps define all the flat, sharp edges of the case, not to mention adding a distortion-free mirror finish to the design. This is no easy skill to learn, often requiring a craftsman to undergo several years of extensive training before the art is properly mastered.   

Lastly, by flipping the watch over to reveal its underside, a sapphire exhibition feature reveals a beautifully manufactured and decorated movement. The in-house arranged Calibre 9S86 performs behind this window, showing off its fine finishes, including a customized Grand Seiko rotor. 

The Dial 

One thing I love about GMT watches is that you often get a twist of color in the design. Sometimes, it’s in the form of a bi-color bezel, like I mentioned earlier. Sometimes color is simply offered in the form of the GMT hand or the subtle lettering of the display. 

But in the case of the Grand Seiko “Shunbun” watch, the color of the dial is an entrancing deep green hue – an organic, almost-earthy green tone that fills the dial right up to the very perimeters. The color, once again, nods to the brand’s affinity to nature.

The location where Grand Seiko’s prestigious Shinshu Watch Studio is located is surrounded by layers of rich green foliage and mountainous landscapes, some mountains of which reach right up to 3,190 meters high, so you can imagine the blanket of green that bursts into abundant color during Springtime. 

Since the Hotaka mountain range that forms the backdrop to the watchmaking studio was formed as a result of volcanic activity, the peaks and slopes are sheer and abstract. The winds, moisture, and natural weather conditions have shaped and carved the structures that form these sharp ridges. 

They are exposed to harsh natural elements and the transitional seasons as they roll out across the land. For Grand Seiko, the turning of the seasons is an important source of inspiration for its many watches. The SBGJ251 puts considerable focus on the arrival of the Spring equinox, when Sakura blossoms decorate the land and cherry blossoms begin to bloom. 

It’s impossible to discuss the design of the Grand Seiko SBGJ251 and its functional, highly legible qualities without touching on the luscious green blooms of springtime. The watch represents the time in an indulgent pine green color. Interestingly, the matte finish of the dial looks very similar to the texture that Grand Seiko specialists used for the Snowflake watch. 

At the 12, 9, and 3 o’clock positions, the hour locations are represented in double batons. The faceted edges of the remaining markers take up residence around the rest of the dial, catching the light majestically under the watch’s protective sapphire crystal glass front, as do the dauphine-shaped hour and minute hands. 

The applied Grand Seiko logo and brand name can be seen at the top of the dial in a brushed silver color. It is these smaller details that give the SBGJ251 such character. The GMT scale proves particularly legible, too, including the 24-hour track in silver and the matching triangular markers that go with it. 

Suffice it to say, this is no plain green dial. The fine structure of the display changes nuances in the light depending on the angle from which you view it. Given the fact that a love for horology is often multi-faceted, the same can be said for features like this dial. The details begin to unravel themselves the more you admire them. 

The Movement 

Inside the case of the SBGJ251 lies the automatic Calibre 9S86 – a Hi-Beat movement that contains a total of 37 jewels and performs at a rate of 36,600 vibrations per hour. The Hi-Beat takes its name from the fact that it performs an impressive 10 beats per second. 

The movement traces its heritage back to the year 1968 when Grand Seiko released the first self-winding watch with this 10-beat technology. What set a new standard for the Hi-Beat movement, however, was the launch of the Calibre 9S85 almost forty years later. It promised a new level of durability, precision, and reliability from which the 9S86 took over. 

The PS86 Calibre also stores a power reserve of 55 hours once fully wound and promises an accuracy of –3 and +5 seconds per day. The beauty of this movement is that when you want to change the time zone, you can do so without jeopardizing the accuracy of the time. To simply set the time, pull the crown out to one notch and adjust the hour hand. 

The seconds hand will continue to perform without interruption. The Hi-Beat maintains exceptional precision, both in the essence of timekeeping and in the form of the added hour 24-hour hand.

The Strap 

Pairing any travel watch with a stainless steel bracelet will give it a classic and understated look, and that’s certainly what Grand Seiko was going for when designing this model. The 5-link design has a matte finish on the outer links, while brushed finishes have been applied to the central links.

The simple foldable clasp, manufactured in-house by Grand Seiko, has pushers but, unfortunately, no micro-adjustment system. Maybe it would have been a nice feature for GS to incorporate. Still, it’s not a deal breaker. 

How It Wears

Putting the Grand Seiko “Shunbun” reference SBGJ251 on the wrist for the first time will give you an instant feeling of refinement and luxury. After all, these are qualities that the Japanese brand became renowned for during the 1960s. 

Even so, as refined as it may be, this watch is perfect for wearing every day of the week, thanks to its robust, solid-feeling stainless steel bracelet. It’s also dressy enough to pair with formal attire or something smarter in the evening.

I already outlined the dimensions of the watch earlier, but one element that may take a little time to get used to is the back of the case. The combination of the bulbous back and the kettlebell bulge at the side of the case does make for thicker wear on the wrist. 

This is an interesting concept since Grand Seiko watches tend to be geared towards slimmer, ergonomically-fitting timepieces. In some ways, the bulge of the case and underside nods to a touch of nostalgia, capturing a feel of sporty dress watches from yesteryear.

The GMT feature is a super handy complication that, even at a glance, will provide you instantly with the same at home and in your current location. The main sword-shaped hands and the baton indexes are clear and ultra-legible, enhancing the watch’s wearability factor. At the same time, the GMT hand pointing to the silver 24-hour track is offered up willingly, thanks to the peach-colored tones of the arrow-tipped hand.

The lugs of the SBGJ251 have a downward curvature that turns into the bracelet as they hug the shape of the wrist. I also like the mixture of polished and brushed finishes on the links and the GS-engraved deposit clasp, complete with a milled finish.

The Price

The Grand Seiko “Shunbun” watch reference SBGJ251 comprises a mechanical engine that beats at 36,600 oscillations per hour. That alone is no mean feat, but when you think about the whole package; the level of case finishing, the striking green dial, and the well-executed components of the display – these compounding features reflect a very reasonable price tag of $6,800 on authorized dealers like Exquisite Timepieces.

For $6k and under, you can drop on a pretty neat watch, don’t get me wrong. There are hundreds of options out there. Some that spring to mind are the Omega Seamaster, the Breitling Navitimer, and the Baume et Mercier Clifton, for example. (All these revered names have specialized in the classic sports watch.) 

But when it comes to an in-house movement and additional complications like the GMT, and even those signature Zaratsu polished elements – Grand Seiko, for me, wins hands down.

Final Thoughts

My final thoughts on the Grand Seiko SBGJ251 are that this is a unique design that sits somewhere in between sporty and dressy. You can take this watch from boardroom to plane without ever having to worry whether it will clash with anything you’re wearing. 

The deep muted green tones of the dial, nature-inspired as they may be, are also universally appealing and have been combined with some of Grand Seiko’s finest cutting-edge timekeeping technology to create a perfect package of functionality, accuracy, and reliability.

Delivering a strong look that’s hard to ignore, the Grand Seiko SBGA481 is visually powerful, to say the least. The watch is a part of GS’s Sport Collection, and its contrasting features add to its unique profile.

This isn’t a luxury timepiece you’ll be able to hide very well. In my opinion, it isn’t made for casual wear. The GS SBGA481 has a certain aura about it that lets you know it’s meant for the right occasions. 

SBGA481 is inspired by the many strengths that lions are known for, and Grand Seiko visualized these sentiments in the SBGA481. If you’re looking for a one-of-a-kind Grand Seiko, the details in this review will easily strike your interest.

The History of the Tokyo Lion

Also referred to as the Tokyo Lion, the Grand Seiko SBGA481 was made available back in August of 2023. However, the case shape and dial of this watch were introduced in 2019 and have become a fan favorite ever since. I usually don’t gravitate toward larger watches, but the style of the SBGA481 is too pretty to pass up.

This infamous lion-inspired dial and case was originally only seen in GS limited editions. In the brand’s modern era, it’s now seen as a staple of the watchmaker’s Sport Collection. Of course, the lion emblem goes all the way back to 1960, as the brand took inspiration from the animal for their logo.

Taking from the precision and durability of lions, Grand Seiko found a way to translate their bold existence into a quality timepiece. You might also want to know that this watch isn’t a reissue and offers a brand-new twist to the case and dial of choice. 

The SBGA481 is a new kid on the block compared to many others, but it has already cemented itself as something special. I find myself getting lost in the choices Grand Seiko offers, but the SBGA481 is one that looks and feels like it’s worth the wait.

A Case You Won’t Forget

What makes the SBGA481 give off such a strong look is that every detail of the watch brings individual strength to the whole of the design. Looking at the case, the bezel takes inspiration from a GS diver’s watch yet remains stationary. The case as a whole delivers a sharp and angular design that isn’t common with most GS engineering.

For me, this is a big selling point, as the SBGA481 exudes a sharp look that is more than fitting for a professional setting. You get the reliability of high-intensity titanium, offering unmatched durability and lightweight on the wrist.

The dimensions of the case command a significant presence as it comes with a 44.5mm diameter, 50mm lug-to-lug, and 14.3mm thickness. For those who prefer a more sleek, form-fitting design, the SBGA481 might not be the best choice. Even for my own skinny wrists, I had to make some minor adjustments for this watch to even look remotely fitting.

I wouldn’t say I have the average wrist size, but the bold look of this case doesn’t look overbearing from my point of view. When you combine features such as the angular design, hairline brushing, and Zaratsu polish, every angle heightens the sharp aesthetic of the watch.

The dual-curved sapphire crystal protects the more finite details of the dial. This was a smart design choice that made me love the SBGA481 even more. Taking this approach with the crystal provides a non-protruding surface so as not to make the watch look too bulky. Moreover, I’m always praying for an open case back when trying a new Grand Seiko, and they didn’t disappoint.

The SBGA481 features an open caseback, where you can see the 9R65 Spring Drive movement in action. This also comes with a classic-style screw-down crown. With smart design choices for wearability, the case promises a low center of gravity that helps ensure it rests comfortably on the wrist. If you take a closer look, you’ll notice a unique approach with the shape of the lugs on this watch. 

Inspired by a lion’s claw, the lugs come with a sharper look, something that isn’t common with most GS watches. As usual, the Grand Seiko beauty of this watch can speak for itself. I’m a huge fan of the mirror-polishing effect the watch has from every angle. It shines without blinding you while delivering a bold presence in every setting.

The Lion Mane Inspired Dial

While each person is bound to have their favorite detail about this watch, most people are on the same page about the dial. It has a beautifully textured, almost opaline colorway. The textured brush strokes may seem random, but their aim is to resemble the flowing look of a lion’s mane. More interestingly, this dial design is reminiscent of the SBGA413 “Shunbun” but clearly brings something unique to the market.

There are many reasons that keep me coming back to Grand Seiko, and their efforts in symbolism are a big one. Carrying an undoubtedly bold aesthetic, the SBGA481 embodies the inner strength that lions are known for.

I have to say that the bolder hour and minute hands aren’t my favorite choice, but it makes sense considering the surrounding look of the watch. At least you have no issue with legibility, and the sharp angles of the hands among the Lumibrite make it easy to tell the time, regardless of the hands’ bulky design.

You can also find a touch of Lumibrite across the hour markers, as well as the bezel, making it easy to check the time in low light. I’m very appreciative of the anti-reflective coating of the sapphire crystal. This is a big factor in what helps the dial seem so clear and bright.

With bold hour markers and clearly visible minute track, you won’t ever have trouble navigating the larger hands. At a glance, they may seem grandiose, but the surrounding design elements make it all easy to track accurately. Although the dial colorway stands out on its own, its contrast with the titanium and varying finishes make it pop even more.

I find myself staring at the dial from different angles just to see the detail in every brush stroke. Something you may not immediately notice is the red accents surrounding the dial. Don’t let online images fool you, as these red accents are much more muted in person. I understand why you might prefer a more open-face dial, but I personally love all of the bells and whistles.

On a few final notes, the SBGA481 dial also provides a date window at 3 o’clock, as well as a 72-hour power reserve indicator. Even the power reserve offers some contrasting design choices that give the dial some added depth.

Smooth Movements and Overall Functionality

The component that powers the visual movement of this timepiece is the Caliber 9R65 Spring Drive movement. Not only does this movement promise a smooth and precise second-hand movement, but it’s also built with a tri-synchro regulator. What this does is combine electrical, mechanical, and electromagnetic power for regulation.

Although I’m a fan of a nice ticking watch, the seamlessness of this type of movement is something to marvel at. With the 9R65, you get an average precision of ±15 seconds per month, and the high torque of the movement is what makes the bulkier hands possible.

This may not have much to do with mechanical aspects, but I love the look of the movement through the watch case back. You get a glimpse of the jewels that are built-in, offering a contrasting vibrance that’s a sight to see.

Another part of this movement that amazes me is that it’s crafted from 200 individual components in-house, by hand. I can only imagine how much engineering and patience this took, and it’s a niche detail that made me want to look into the SBGA481 further.

Keep in mind that this movement isn’t necessarily new to Grand Seiko, as it has been a part of their watchmaking for over 20 years. Nearly 30 years of research went into this movement, with 600 prototypes being a part of the process. Being powered solely by a mainspring is another key detail that drew me to this watch. 

The nuances in the design of this movement make the watch more of a talking piece when it comes up in conversation. Once I got an in-depth look at the engineering of this watch, I just had to keep learning more. The more you discover, the more beautiful this watch becomes.

Grand Seiko’s Matching Quality in the SBGA481 Strap

First and foremost, Grand Seiko won me over by opting for a titanium bracelet. I’ve never been a fan of heavy watches. They can tilt on the wrist and just feel bothersome on the day-to-day. Regardless of the bulky nature of the SBGA481, the strap helps it maintain a cozy yet lightweight feel.

It features a combination of mainly brushed surfaces with polished details, further accenting the angular shape of the case, in my opinion. The clasp comes with the classic GS logo, and it’s a twin-trigger foldover clasp. You get three micro-adjustment holes, which is pretty convenient for most people. Even though it isn’t a major adjustment, it could be just enough to not need a different strap entirely.

Interestingly, the watch comes with a diver’s extension, considering it doesn’t match the lack of functionality in the bezel. The 23mm lug width isn’t the most popular size for strap changes, but the design compensates with the micro-adjustments. Keep in mind that you’ll size the bracelet with push pins, which is a common trait of titanium Grand Seiko watches.

The sizing of the bracelet doesn’t make strap changes impossible, but I’d say the band should be left as is. It’s the perfect match for the case and offers a surprising level of comfort, making all-day wear pretty easy. 

I can see that GS did their best to blend the aesthetics of the case and strap, but it’s a little off-putting to me. From an overhead view, the case still looks a little too bulky for the strap, but that’s just my point of view. It still looks great, nonetheless, but it’s difficult to overlook the perceived gaps in sizing between the strap width and case size.

The On-Wrist Experience With the SBGA481

What’s said about the impressive beauty of this watch’s design is true. Most people wouldn’t argue with that, but I do agree with varying sentiments. While it stands as an excellent sports watch, I’d say it comes with a niche set of use cases. For the most part, your options would be stuck to sports or professional attire. Even then, the colorway of the dial may be a bit too flashy for the office.

That’s just a personal standpoint, and I can also see why someone would disagree with those points. Nevertheless, the relatively lightweight feel and angular design are what make this watch stand out to me. The dial might catch your eye at first, but for me, it’s the contrasting mirror-like angles of the case.

Although there’s plenty to show off about this watch, it isn’t one I’d take out on a daily basis. It’s more than comfortable for daily wear, but I’d rather put this one on for special occasions. Regardless of my naturally skinny wrists, the bold diameter of this watch will make it look sizable to anyone.

The optimal wrist size for this watch is around 7.5”, but the micro-adjustments make it easy for surrounding sizings as well. From a dimensions standpoint, the watch is clearly well-balanced. However, as I stated earlier, I feel the angular design somewhat clashes with the strap for me. 

This is likely the case because I’m personally not familiar with wearing such an angular case, but that’s just a design note that comes to mind. At the end of the day, I’d say the SBGA481 is well worth the investment, but of course, that’s another talking point on its own.

SBGA481 Pricing and Availability

At retail, you’ll find the Grand Seiko available for $10,400. That might sting for some, but it’s an understandable asking price considering the components and engineering. This is on top of the design details, the inspiration behind the case and dial, and many other details. On the other hand, if you’re looking for pre-owned pricing, that’s roughly found within the range of $7,400 and $9,000.

Of course, pricing is bound to vary over time due to many factors, but cost isn’t the only consideration when it comes to this timepiece. Where you source your authentic Grand Seiko watches is an equally important topic to discuss.

To keep it simple, you want to choose a retailer that has historical experience with the brand and the industry as a whole. In short, this is the core of how Exquisite Timepieces operates, where you can find an SBGA481 of your own. You won’t have to worry about quality, reliability, or customer service when working alongside Exquisite Timepieces.

Final Thoughts

At a glance, the Grand Seiko SBGA481 looks a bit large, but don’t judge until you wrap it around your wrist. You’ll be surprised at how good it looks on different wrist sizes without looking too bulky. It’s meant to offer a bold stance, and I’d say it’s a stellar choice for anyone who’s a fan of that sporty, business-casual look.

If you’d like to learn more about the SBGA481 and other Grand Seiko watches, spend some time with Exquisite Timepieces to help guide your decision-making.