In this comprehensive guide to watch movements, we’ll discuss the key mechanisms used in accurate timekeeping and compare them in detail.
Navigating the world of watches is not just as simple as choosing a design you like the look of. You need to consider what features that watch offers, its size, and factors like the case material. You need to decide whether that watch is suitable for work, home life, and whatever you get up to in your spare time. If it isn’t, you may consider investing in multiple timepieces – a design for every occasion.
That, in itself, opens up a whole host of other factors to consider. Do you need a “going out watch” and a daily beater? Or can you combine a watch for the office with a GMT feature for times when you travel on business? There are so many options.
On top of that, you’ll also need to decide what type of watch movement you want. This guide is going to focus on just that – watch movements. What are they? How many different kinds of watch movements are there? And which one is the best? I will answer all those big questions for you in this guide. Let me provide a quick overview before we get stuck into the nitty-gritty details.
An Overview of the Different Types of Watch Movements
First thing is first: watches fall into one of two main categories. On the one hand, we have mechanical, and on the other, quartz. But wait (it was never going to be that simple, was it?), there’s more. Mechanical watches are further divided into two sub-categories: the automatic type and the hand-wound type.
In this article, whenever you see me refer to a hand-wound watch, you’ll know that it means the manually-powered type. These watches need regular winding by hand to keep time accurately.
Automatics are the type of mechanical movement that require no hand winding and, instead, source their energy from the natural movement created by your wrist. An automatic movement is also called a self-winding movement (just to make things a little more complicated!).
With an automatic movement, the mainspring is perpetually wound by an oscillating weight. This weight effectively does what your fingers would be doing if you were manually winding a hand-wound watch.
So, that’s the basic run-through of mechanical watch movements. But what is quartz, you ask? Well, quartz watches have no mechanical mainspring at all. Instead, they use a small battery that creates an electrical charge that powers the hands around the dial.
Even the basics of watch movement terminology will tell you that the two main types that power a watch are very different things. They work in different ways but achieve the same overall purpose – to propel a set of hands accurately around a dial, telling the wearer what time of day it is. Functionality-wise, movements can vary in their complexity, too.
Aside from a simple day or date feature, advanced functions can include stopwatches, perpetual calendars, moon phase indicators, power reserve displays, tourbillons, small second functions, flyback chronographs, and rattrapante chronographs, to name just a few examples. Let’s take a deeper look into the different movements of a watch and compare them to one another.
What Is a Mechanical Movement?
All mechanical movements contain a metal coil called a mainspring that produces power as it unwinds. What tightens the mainspring in the first place is the winding of a manual watch or a weighted rotor in an automatic watch. As you manually wind a watch, the spring curves and retains energy, which is then released in a controlled and steady manner to keep perfect time on the dial side.
The release of the tension in the mainspring is all down to a series of gears and wheels. This is what is also known as the Going Train. The component that releases the energy from the mainspring is the escapement.
This is an integral part of the mechanics of a movement since it prevents the mainspring from instantly unwinding itself and losing all its power. To unwind rhythmically it requires the help of an escape wheel and a balance fork.
The escape wheel catches on a palette that clicks back and forth, controlled by a fork lever, which in turn catches on an impulse pin attached to the balance wheel. The balance wheel must be regulated the whole time for the watch to keep accurate time. This is the element you’ll see rocking back and forth behind an exhibition window on the back of a watch case.
Automatic watches work in a very similar way to a manual winding movement, except for the fact that they use a weighted rotor. The rotor spins on its axis as natural movement is created in the wrist, automatically coiling the mainspring without the need for manual winding.
The rotor can either be unidirectional or bidirectional winding. However, the benefit of a bidirectional winding movement is that it utilizes the energy that would normally be wasted on a unidirectional winding movement.
The first mechanical watches date back to the 1500s, eventually becoming more discreet as they evolved from large pocket watches to convenient wrist-worn companions. The first mechanical wristwatch was produced by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1810 (yes, that Breguet!).
Before then, however, several pioneers had played an integral role in bringing timepieces up to a “modern” level of precision, including the balance spring, invented by Robert Hooke and Christiaan Huygens in 1675, John Harrison’s marine chronometer of 1760, and, eventually, the automatic wristwatch by John Harwood.
What Is a Quartz Movement?
Quartz movements work in a completely different way from manual movements. Despite being a more affordable option, they are more accurate than mechanical movements, and this is all down to the frequency of the vibrations of a quartz crystal.
The Quartz Crisis, as it became known, occurred during the 1970 and 1980s after the arrival of the quartz movement. Japanese brands propelled the success of the battery-operated watch, releasing digital and analog watches powered by this cheaper alternative that could be mass-produced at a quick rate.
It sent many traditional Swiss watch companies to an early demise, many of whom simply couldn’t compete with the sheer popularity of the new-found movement. Some brands overcome these hurdles, however, by manufacturing quartz versions of their most popular mechanical designs.
Quartz timekeeping begins with a battery that sends a current to a microchip. This microchip causes a piece of quartz crystal to vibrate at an astonishing rate – 32,768 times per second, to be more precise! These oscillations are picked up by another microchip, which then turns them into electrical impulses. The pulse then activates an electric stepping motor, which is what causes a set of tiny gears to move the hands around the dial.
Quartz watches use piezoelectricity, which makes for an exceptionally accurate form of timekeeping. The Japanese are credited with initiating the concept of the Quartz Movement. More specifically, it was Seiko that released the first quartz watch – the Seiko Astron. It launched in 1969, revolutionizing the watchmaking industry and dominating the market for well over a decade.
Quartz Movements Vs Mechanical Movements – Which Are Best?
In order to better understand how a quartz stacks up against a mechanical watch (and vice versa), it makes sense to break each type down into a list of pros and cons.
The Pros and Cons of a Quartz Watch
Quartz watches are generally easier to maintain and look after than mechanical timepieces since they require no regular service. There’s also a lot less that can go wrong with a quartz, and some collectors enjoy the ease of regularly wearing one. Quartz watches tend to be cheaper than automatics since they can be mass-produced by machinery rather than hand-built. They’re also more accurate than a mechanical watch.
On the other hand, quartz watches don’t last forever. A battery will run out every 2-3 years (by which time you may be ready for a change anyway), which may require a trip to a watch repair center. They can also be harmful to the environment since the disposing of quartz batteries is not eco-friendly.
In general, they lack the mechanical appeal that many watch connoisseurs love about watch collecting, and the second hand of a quartz watch will jump rather than sweep, constituting a less visually appealing experience.
The Pros and Cons of a Mechanical Watch
Everything reversed in what I have just outlined for the quartz watch, really! Mechanical watches are not as accurate as quartz watches. They’re also more expensive and can be costly should they need a replacement part or a repair. You also need to think about servicing a mechanical watch every few years to ensure it “runs like clockwork”.
On the upside, mechanical watches tend to be made by traditional watchmakers using time-honored techniques and skills that are learned within the trade.
As such, the finish and craftsmanship in a traditional mechanical watch are different from that in a quartz, which all compounds the desire for a mechanical watch and the novelty of collecting them. They bring a sense of nostalgia to the wrist, allowing the wearer to admire the movement in motion, either from the caseback or dial side.
In-house or Third-Party Movement?
Depending on whether you’re a budding watch enthusiast or not, you may already have some understanding of the difference between an in-house movement and a third-party movement.
A “manufacture” movement should refer to a product that has been developed entirely in-house. This means that every part of the engine, including the mainplate, rotor, and hairpins should all be produced by the manufacturer.
Over the years, however, the definition of the term “Manufacture” has become murky and the lines blurred. The term has been used as a market-driving element in promoting a watch brand since very few would actually qualify as a true “Manufacture” company. Still, some connoisseurs will settle for nothing less than a pedigree movement.
The opportunity to view said movement through a caseback, complete with traditional decoration and, perhaps, a customized rotor, is all part of the allure of collecting mechanical timepieces. Brands that don’t make their own movements will tend to source Japanese movements like Miyota or reliable Swiss power horses like ETA and Sellita.
What About Solar-Powered Watches?
Today, the term “Solar Powered” is quite misleading because many watches under this category get their energy from other light sources, not just from the sun’s rays. One leader in this realm of movement manufacture is Citizen, with its world-famous Eco-Drive technology. Eco-Drive watches arrived on the scene in 1976. Despite them being a ground-breaking revelation in timekeeping, their battery life in the early days was considerably low.
Over the following decade, Citizen began focusing its efforts on improving and upgrading the capability of the solar-powered movement. By 1986, its watch could run on eight days of power from a single charge of light. Fast forward another decade, and the movement could last an entire 6 months! The first Eco-Drive watches featured a translucent dial with a solar cell panel mounted underneath.
This component supplied energy to a lithium-ion battery. Since this form of technology greatly reduced the number of batteries required for watchmaking, Eco-Drive watches soon became a preferred option for the environmentally conscious.
Seiko is another Japanese brand and another leader in solar-powered technology. In fact, when it revived the Speedtimer as part of its Prospex collection, it decided to eschew the automatic movement in favor of a solar-powered one. The watch could run for six months on a single charge of light, boosting its popularity with avid Speedtimer fans. Together, Seiko and Citizen remain masters in pioneering solar-powered technology, yet Casio, Junghans, and Cartier have also dabbled in the field.
What is the Spring Drive Movement?
Spring Drive technology by Seiko works differently from mechanical watches and quartz watches and deserves a category of its own. It combines the best parts of mechanical timekeeping with the best parts of a quartz movement.
By that, I mean it contains a mainspring that allows it to power larger, heavier hands, but no escapement. Instead, it uses what Seiko calls a Tri-Synchro Regulator, which replaces several otherwise delicate parts.
The components can produce quartz-like accuracy by controlling the flow of power to the mainspring. Simply put, the Tri-Synchro Regulator features a wheel at the end of the movement’s gear train that spins eight times per second, generating an electric current. This current activates a quartz oscillator, oscillating at an exceptional rate, producing a level of accuracy that is superior to other mechanical watches.
The first Spring Drive movement was released in 1999 but had been in the making for an entire two decades before that. Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches have an average autonomy of 72 hours and are still considered a triumph in watch technology.
The Takeaway
Hopefully, this guide has gone some way to explaining the different watch movements and how they compare to one another. Quartz watches are more accurate than mechanical watches, but automatics and manual winds are often a preferred choice for the horologically curious. The great thing about the market for luxury timepieces is that there is always plenty of choice, no matter your preference.
The whole point of collecting timepieces and wearing them is to enjoy them, whether that means the latest timekeeping technology on the market or the simpler, no-nonsense type.
