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While beauty is subjective, certain things effortlessly capture attention. Nothing draws the eye more quickly in watches than a well-crafted dial, evoking emotion with its details—whether good or bad.

What makes a dial truly stand out? Is it the striking color of its face, the texture and subtle details of its base, or perhaps the craftsmanship behind the design of the hour markers? It could be a combination of all these elements working in harmony. The more you analyze a dial, the more you realize how each one is a carefully crafted piece of art, unique in its own right.

Watchmaking brands worldwide have become renowned for crafting dials that are almost emblematic, each reflecting their distinct heritage and identity. 

Over time, some brands have embraced experimentation, introducing innovative designs through bold choices. These creative departures offer a fresh perspective, showcasing the evolving artistry within the traditional craft of watchmaking.

If you’re new to watches, you might wonder, “What makes a dial stand out?” It’s the combination of details—shape, texture, markers, and hands—that turns a dial from functional into a timeless piece of art.

The Different Dial Patterns

Many elements make each dial unique, and, much like any building or structure as a form of art, it all begins with a solid foundation, or in the case of watches, the base. 

The dial’s base is essential to the watch’s overall aesthetic, acting not only as the surface where markers, hands, and other components are placed but also as one of the most intricate aspects of the watch. It doesn’t only act as a backdrop; the base is often crafted with remarkable detail, contributing significantly to the watch’s character and allure.

Dial bases come in a variety of styles and textures, many of which have become iconic within the watchmaking industry. For example, the sunburst dial is a radiant, lacquered style that interacts beautifully with light. 

Finely etched lines extend outward from the center, creating an effect that shifts and shimmers depending on the angle and lighting conditions. Some famous models include the Rolex Oyster Perpetual, some Omega Aqua Terra models, and (I add this one because it is my baby) the Seiko Alpinist SARB017. 

In my opinion, textured dials showcase some of the most captivating designs in watchmaking. The artistry required to create these intricate surfaces—whether achieved by machine or handcrafted—highlights the skill and dedication of watchmakers. For a glimpse of this artistry, look no further than the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA211 “Snowflake” or Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Tapisserie, both renowned for their exceptional dial textures.

One of the most notable textured dials is the Guilloché-style dial, known for its precise, geometric patterns. Crafted using a rose engine, this technique ensures flawless, intricate engravings that create a mesmerizing effect. 

Mastering this art takes years, but for those who have, the result is a true horological masterpiece. Watches like the Breguet Classique and the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony are prime examples of the stunning detail and craftsmanship this style brings to life.

Dials can range from simple, understated matte finishes to those crafted from delicate, refined materials like enamel. Some high-end luxury watches even feature skeleton dials, allowing a glimpse into the intricate inner workings of the timepiece. 

Each dial style adds its unique character, capturing the essence of the watch and enhancing its appeal to enthusiasts and collectors alike.

The Main Watch Dial Markings

Unique details and beautiful designs make watch dials an essential part of any wardrobe, enhancing both daily office wear and special occasion outfits. Yet, it’s vital to remember a wristwatch’s primary purpose. 

Its beauty holds little value without functionality; a truly exceptional watch balances aesthetics with the reliability that makes it indispensable. This blend of form and function relies on the precise components that enable timekeeping and, depending on the model, a range of additional features.

Hands

The hands on a watch are essential to its time-telling function, with a long minute hand and a shorter hour hand, each available in a range of designs and shapes. These elements enhance legibility and contribute an additional layer of aesthetic appeal to the watch’s overall design.

Baton hands are among the most traditional and recognizable styles in watchmaking. Their clean, rectangular design, which emerged in the mid-20th century, is celebrated for its simplicity and legibility. Baton hands adapt well to both sporty and dress watches, offering either a vintage charm or a contemporary look depending on the material used.

With the variety of watch hand styles available, choosing one that aligns with either a vintage or modern aesthetic is easy, allowing for a personalized touch to any timepiece. 

For those drawn to vintage-styled watches, consider pieces with cathedral hands, reminiscent of classic church window designs; sword-style hands, seen on models like Cartier; or dauphine hands, which add a touch of elegance on watches like Grand Seiko and Jaeger-LeCoultre. 

Some brands have even developed their own signature hand styles. For instance, the “Mercedes” hands have become iconic in many Rolex models, with their hour hand featuring a design that resembles the car brand’s logo. 

Tudor’s distinctive “Snowflake” hands, while not shaped like actual snowflakes, have also left a mark on watch enthusiasts. Originally mandated by the French Navy, this design was created to improve underwater visibility for divers, adding both functionality and a touch of history to the aesthetic.

Indices

To read the time, the hands must align with the indices, or hour markers, positioned around the dial. These indices serve as reference points for the hours and minutes and come in various styles to enhance both legibility and aesthetics. Like the hands, indices can be designed to suit different watch styles, adding another layer of character and functionality to the piece.

The style of indices can vary, as can the numerals they display. While many watches feature markers at every hour, others choose a more minimalistic approach, highlighting only the 3, 6, 9, and 12 positions. This selective approach can give the dial a cleaner look while maintaining ease of readability.

In the early days of horology, Roman numerals were commonly used to indicate the hours. While they still appear on some designs today, Arabic numerals have become the more prevalent choice for most watchmakers, offering a clean, traditional look that complements a wide range of dial styles.

Some prominent brands have opted to forgo numbers entirely, using shapes as indices to enhance functionality, legibility, or aesthetic appeal. Sleek, elongated indices resembling sticks or daggers lend a sophisticated look to dress watches, while baton or round indices often appear on sports and tool watches, providing a balanced and versatile design.

Branding

While each master craftsman leaves a unique touch on the dial design, it’s often the brand that ultimately sets one watch apart from another. From intricate, creative designs to minimalist, understated dials, the brand name on the face typically distinguishes whether a watch belongs to the entry-level or luxury class.

Branding plays a crucial role in the overall dial design, reflecting the heritage and philosophy of the brand. While styles and models may vary, the branding itself makes each watch instantly recognizable.

Omega and Rolex are renowned globally for their elegant, timeless watches, each piece celebrated for impeccable design and exquisite detail. Holding any model from these prestigious brands feels like handling watchmaking royalty, as the logo and brand name on the dial instantly signal their legacy and mastery.

This holds true for most brands—their name and often a logo grace the dial, typically just below the 12 o’clock marker. Some even include the specific model designation, adding an extra touch of identity and exclusivity that resonates with collectors and enthusiasts alike.

Dial Text

If the branding is text on the dial, then why is there a separate section for “dial text?” The answer is simple. Not every watch is as similar as it seems. 

The best example to use would be that of the Omega Speedmaster Racing Chronograph and the Omega Speedmaster Professional. While similar in appearance, they are quite different when it comes to inner workings and functionality. 

While the Omega Speedmaster features “Professional” lettering beneath the brand name, the Racing Chronograph omits this detail. Instead, it has “Co-Axial Master Chronometer” elegantly engraved above the 6 o’clock marker, adding a distinctive touch that highlights its advanced movement and certification.

Dial text provides insight into a watch’s functions and features, such as movement type—like Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive or Hi-Beat—or details like water resistance and country of origin. These subtle elements enhance the watch’s identity, offering enthusiasts a quick reference to its specifications at a glance.

Date Window

While a watch primarily serves as a timekeeping tool, it often includes a date window—a functional addition that provides an added sense of orientation, helping you stay aware of the day and date with just a glance.

Typically located at the 3 o’clock position, the date window is a small aperture on the dial displaying the current calendar date. Its color and size can vary, allowing watchmakers to integrate this feature as an additional element of the watch’s aesthetic appeal.

In fact, the date window’s position isn’t fixed; some brands opt for placements at 4:30 or 6 o’clock on certain models. This variation allows watchmakers to experiment with design while maintaining functionality.

The standard date window usually has a frame and a single-number wheel displaying 1–31. However, innovations for enhanced legibility have introduced the “big date” window, featuring two separate wheels—one for tens and another for single units. Some designs also incorporate a cyclops lens, magnifying the date by 2.5 times for improved visibility.

Some brands have taken it further by adding a day-date feature, displaying both the day and date on the dial. Others have gone even more intricate, incorporating the month for a “triple calendar” display. These additions bring added functionality while showcasing the craftsmanship and complexity behind each piece.

Subdials

If you’ve ever noticed smaller clock-like dials on a watch face, those are known as subdials. These multi-functional elements enhance the watch’s aesthetics while serving various purposes. 

Depending on the type of watch—be it a dress watch, sports watch, or chronograph—subdials can tell time, track elapsed minutes, or display additional features, adding a distinctive beauty and complexity to any timepiece.

Subdials are most commonly found on chronograph watches, allowing for precise time tracking through their stopwatch functionality. 

Typically arranged in a three-subdial layout, these dials include a minute counter, an hour counter, and a seconds counter, making them ideal for professionals in racing or aviation. This feature not only enhances functionality but also adds an intricate element to the watch’s design, appealing to enthusiasts who value precision and style.

Other subdials that add an extra touch of elegance to any dial include the power reserve subdial, which indicates how much power remains in a mechanical watch before it needs to be manually wound. The GMT subdial is perfect for globetrotters who want to keep track of time back home.

A beautifully unique option is the moon phase subdial, ideal for those who like to track lunar calendars. Alternatively, the perpetual calendar subdials provide separate tracking for the month, day, and date, enhancing the watch’s functionality while adding to its aesthetic appeal.

Complications

The last two sections share a common theme: they both highlight additional functions that a watch can perform beyond its primary purpose of telling time. The date window and the various subdials serve as complications, which are features that enhance the watch’s functionality. 

These complications, whether it’s displaying the date or tracking power reserve, GMT, moon phases, or calendar details, add depth and versatility to the timepiece, enriching the overall experience for the wearer.

GMTs, chronographs, and perpetual calendars are all considered complications in watchmaking. Their presence on a dial not only showcases the technical mastery of the skilled craftsmen and women who create these timepieces but also enhances the aesthetic appeal of the watch. 

These complications introduce intricate details and functionalities that reflect a blend of artistry and engineering, adding layers of sophistication and technical brilliance to the overall design. 

Artwork

In addition to intricate dial designs, some brands elevate their creations by incorporating actual artwork onto the dials. Whether through exquisite enamel work or painted scenes, these dials are transformed into genuine pieces of art. 

This artistic approach not only enhances the watch’s visual appeal but also reflects the brand’s commitment to craftsmanship and creativity, turning each timepiece into a unique expression of artistic mastery.

Conclusion

In the world of watches, the dial is the first detail that captures attention. From the exquisite intricacies of the dial’s base to the additional features that enhance its allure, the dial stands as a true work of art—whether extravagant or simplistic. 

Its design not only defines the watch’s character but also showcases the craftsmanship and creativity behind each piece, making it a focal point for enthusiasts and casual observers alike.

Our sense of personal taste, style, and function doesn’t have to end with the purchase of a wristwatch. But many don’t even explore the various options available to really make a timepiece their own—or to better suit it to a specific aesthetic or activity. 

For many, a nice pair of shoes can really bring an outfit together while also offering specific functionality. A good pair of boots can help you navigate rugged terrain.

A pair of basketball sneakers can give you better support for working out or training. A sleek pair of dress shoes can really elevate formal wear. 

But so many of us buy a watch and forget that we can make it our own. We’ll wear a leather band to the beach, or a NATO strap to a board meeting, or a metal bracelet to a black-tie event.

And while variety is the spice of life, a timepiece is, in actuality, extraordinarily flexible if we just consider changing the band or strap from time to time. 

A watch band is, after all, shoes for your wrist, so don’t be afraid to explore the many options that can make an older watch feel new again or to make your watch even more suited to the task at hand.

History of Watch Bands 

As many may know, the first watches were essentially miniature versions of clocks, so they were still too large to be worn on the wrist.

In the 16th century, these “miniature clocks” were known as pocket watches, and while they were small enough to be carried, they were typically attached to chains and worn in pockets (hence the name) or pinned onto clothing. 

The first wristwatch was created in the early 19th century by the legendary Abraham-Louis Breguet. He crafted this first wrist-worn timepiece for Queen Caroline Murat of Naples in 1810.

And for much of the 19th century, pocket watches reigned supreme, with a few wrist-worn pieces created for royalty. 

The prominence of wrist-worn watches didn’t begin until the early 20th century. In 1904, Cartier designed a watch for Alberto Santos-Dumont, an aviator with a “functional” need for accessible timekeeping while flying. 

And then the start of The Great War (World War I) required a more practical timekeeping solution for combat. Soldiers began strapping watches to their wrists, using makeshift leather straps or fabric brands to secure their pocket watches onto their wrists.

The rest is history—literally! 

Most Popular Watch Band Types 

So you want to change up the look of your timepiece. Or maybe you are about to head on a scuba adventure or mountainous trek, and you want something that is more comfortable or better suited to the outdoors. 

Here at Exquisite Timepieces, we aren’t only in the business of selling luxury timepieces, but we are also in the business of informing you, our readers and clients, about the most popular watch band types that exist. 

So sit back, relax, and get ready to journey down the winding—no pun intended!—road of watch bands. It is important to note that we will cover a good portion of the different types of straps and bracelets available, but the following list is not a fully exhaustive list.

Metal Bracelets

If strength, durability, and lightplay are at the top of your list, a metal bracelet is unparalleled in offering these traits.

They come in many shapes and sizes, with some types better suited to rugged wear while others bridge the difference between formal and informal attire. Every collector should have at least one good bracelet in their collection! 

Oyster

The brainchild of Rolex, the Oyster bracelet is the quintessential watch accessory. If you ask the average person to close their eyes and imagine a watch, chances are they will probably envision some type of dive watch on an Oyster bracelet. 

The broad, flat three-piece links are engineered for superior durability and comfort, making the Oyster bracelet ideal for diving or desk wear.

Because these watches are often built to the highest of standards, they have micro adjustment available via their robust clasps, offering even greater flexibility for wetsuits and wrist swelling.

Jubilee

Another invention from the crown, the jubilee bracelet is made up of a five-piece structure with semi-circular links, offering a more comfortable, form-fitting wear, as well as a dressier overall look.

The larger outer links are usually brushed, and the narrow inner links are polished, giving the jubilee bracelet an elegant appearance with eye-catching light play. 

The jubilee is the most appropriate bracelet for a dress watch, period. It also wears nicely on the weekend with a pair of jeans.

You’d be hard-pressed to find a more versatile bracelet; while they are robust for most activities, if a demanding physical activity calls for a metal bracelet, you would be better served with an Oyster or Engineer Bracelet.

President

The final bracelet on this list that was originally conceptualized and created by Rolex, the President bracelet is a dressier and more refined version of the Oyster bracelet. It is characterized by rounder, narrower, and wider links, arranged in rows of three.

There is a greater distinction and variation (depending on the model) of brushed versus polished textured surfaces, thus adding onto the lightplay and sophistication of the bracelet. 

Additionally, the President bracelet typically features a hidden clasp that maintains the sleek aesthetic, while the Oyster may have a more visible clasp design. This makes for a bracelet that is much better suited for formal occasions.

Engineer

The most underrated of metal straps that just so happens to be my favorite. Formed by rows of five narrow, tightly interlocking links, the Engineer bracelet has a unique pattern and superior wearability. Think about breaking one stick in half and then a bundle of sticks. 

The five links create a really strong and unique design, ultimately offering more “points” to conform onto the wrist, providing unmatched flexibility.

This combination makes the engineer bracelet both stylish and incredibly resilient for outdoor and active wear while offering a striking visual texture that’s hard to miss.

Mesh

Pick your poison: shark mesh or Milanese. The Shark Mesh bracelet takes its design cues from the protective mesh suits used by divers to shield themselves from shark attacks.

This kind of bracelet rose to prominence in the 1970s as diving watches gained popularity. Shark mesh bracelets are a bit more loosely woven when compared to their closest cousin: Milanese. 

The Milanese or “Milano” bracelet originated in 19th-century Milan, where artisans developed it as a form of chainmail. This beautiful mesh design eventually made its way into watch bracelets, offering a unique mix of flexibility, comfort, and style.

With its tightly woven stainless steel mesh, the Milanese bracelet has a sleek and fluid look that, at least in my own experiences, almost wears like a “second skin,” albeit one made from metal.

Leather Straps

We’ve all owned a watch on a leather strap. Maybe it was something cheap and stiff, or perhaps it was something luxurious and buttery, but likely, it was something in the middle, taking a bit of time to break in and become your own. Leather straps are ubiquitous in the world of watches today.

Aviator/Pilot

These leather straps are often thick and padded; this was done to conform to the historically “larger” dimensions and case thickness of pilot’s watches, which had to be large to offer superior legibility during flights. 

Sometimes featuring stainless steel studs near the widest portion of the strap, the pilot’s strap is crafted from various textures, ranging from smooth (top-grain) to rough (nubuck), and comes in colors like black, tan, and mocha brown.

Bund

I’ve never owned a bund strap. Sure, I’ve tried a few on, but they are far too large for smaller wrists, in my opinion. The term “bund” comes from the German word Bundeswehr, which means “Federal Defense.” 

The bund strap is unique in that it is a regular leather strap atop a larger and wider leather baseplate. This was done, specifically for pilots, to protect wrists from temperature changes and, thus, the friction/discomfort that metal watch cases would bring onto wrists due to drastic changes in temperature.

Dress

Dress watch straps come in all shapes and sizes. Some are crafted from exotic hides such as ostrich and crocodile, and others are merely embossed so as to appear that they are made from a leather other than calf. Leather straps can be padded or unpadded, depending on the watch accompanying the strap. 

Thicker and larger watches, with multiple complications, may call for a padded strap, while thinner, elegant pieces may call for an unpadded and sleek strap. Nevertheless, when in doubt, a leather dress strap is always appropriate for formal attire and events.

Rally

These straps are inspired by motorsports, particularly automotive racing. Many chronographs come on rally straps, as these watches are specifically built for the world of automotive sports. 

Rally straps have distinctive perforations that allow the wearer’s wrist to breathe, offering a more aggressive aesthetic that is both timeless and functional.

If you are looking to add a dynamic edge to your watch, or you are a car enthusiast of any sort, consider adding a rally strap to your collection. Steve McQueen would be proud! 

Fabric Straps

When the heat makes leather straps unbearably sweaty, and the frost renders metal bracelets bitingly cold, fabric straps emerge as the ultimate versatile choice: a jack of all trades, really. They can be dressed up or down, are very durable, and can be worn in water without worry.

NATO

NATO straps have a military history dating back to the 1970s. Originally designed by the British Ministry of Defense, their durability and style have made them one of the most popular watch straps available today. 

NATO straps are unique in that they have a safety flap that goes under the case to secure the watch if a spring bar breaks. Constructed from nylon, NATO straps are highly durable and ready for the battlefield, the bar, or the boardroom. 

Zulu

The Zulu strap is generally constructed from thicker nylon than its cousin, the NATO strap, though they can also be constructed from leather. The Zulu strap is based on military watch straps from the mid-20th century. 

The US military began using the Zulu style as early as the 1960s, and the name may come from the military’s use of Zulu time, which was the same as GMT or UTC time.

These straps are also durable because they are a single piece of nylon that goes through and under both spring bars, ensuring that the watch isn’t lost if one bar fails. This allows for the same durability as a NATO but with less strap bulk underneath the case.

Perlon

The perlon strap is made from a light, crisp, and elastic material that offers excellent breathability, making it ideal for hot summer days or extraneous activities. One of the standout features of this braided nylon is the ability to make micro-adjustments for the perfect fit. 

Thanks to its flexible and soft construction, you can easily slide the buckle’s pin into one of the strap’s numerous perforations, ensuring a perfectly comfortable and customized fit.

Cordura

This sailcloth style strap is constructed from durable Cordura®-nylon, known for its resistance to abrasion, tears, and scuffs. These straps are well known amongst the sailing and marine industries, and offer a stylish yet comfortable solution to salt, sand, and sea! 

Rubber Straps

Rubber straps have risen in popularity since the middle of the 20th century. As watch manufacturers recognized the demand for durable, waterproof options, they started to produce rubber straps that could withstand even the harshest of aquatic environments.

Waffle

The rubber waffle strap was made famous by Captain Willard (Martin Sheen) in the iconic movie Apocalypse Now when he wore it with his Seiko 6105.

The waffle strap offers a unique textured pattern that not only looks great but also helps the wrist breathe better and dry sooner if it becomes wet from water or sweat.

Do you want to be as cool as Captain Willard? If so, you should consider putting a dive watch on a waffle strap! 

Tropic

Tropic straps first appeared in the 1960s, created to meet the needs of scuba diving enthusiasts who wanted waterproof watch straps that could handle the tough conditions of saltwater.

Crafted from a new type of “synthetic rubber,” designed to be more resistant to saltwater and UV exposure.

Tropic straps have a unique pattern that intersects style and function, with perforations to enhance breathability and water drainage, thus making the straps amphibious.

Silicone

We’ve all heard of the wonders of silicone before, but have you ever tried one on your wrist? No leather in existence can match the utter comfort and suppleness of a silicone strap.

If you are looking for something that can weather any element, all while feeling supple and soft, you simply must have a silicone strap in your collection.

Choosing the Right Watch Band for You 

There are a myriad of options available when choosing the right watch band. As with anything, it is all about balancing form and function.

Do you want it to look a certain way, depending on what you are wearing? Do you want it to serve a specific role? If the answer to either of these questions is no, then just choose the band that tickles your fancy. 

But if you need a strap to complete a specific look or complement a certain activity, then you can’t go wrong in considering any of the aforementioned options.

I know they say that fashion doesn’t necessarily conform to comfort, but with the many materials available today, you can have fashion, function, and comfort all in one package!

How to Maintain Your Watch Bands 

Anyone who wishes to maintain their watch bands should always adhere to the manufacturer’s recommendations. That said, metal bracelets of any type can be cleaned with warm water, a mild soap, and a sponge or soft brush.

Rubber straps can be cleaned in the same way, and you can also consider using a rubber conditioner every couple of months to help repel water, dirt, and stains. 

Canvas straps of any variety can be cleaned with warm water, soap, and a soft brush or sponge. They should ALWAYS be air-dried.

Finally, leather straps may require a bit more maintenance, but I’ve always done really well with a horsehair brush and shoe cream or leather conditioner—neutral color of course.

Brush the dirt and debris off of the strap, apply and massage a thin layer of cream onto the shoe, and give it a good brush a few minutes later. 

Conclusion 

Who would have thought that there are so many options available to dress our watches up or down and to better prepare them for the specifics of any endeavor, be it work, play, or formal engagement? 

It’s always important to consider your own unique style and taste, too. Don’t just conform, and don’t be afraid to experiment.

Just because a timepiece comes with a specific strap or bracelet doesn’t mean that you aren’t allowed to change up the look! Be unique and have fun…at the end of the day, that’s what this hobby is all about.

Most of us have owned a watch or two in our lives, but usually, it’s something we grab for its stylish look or just to make sure we’re not late for work. Maybe it’s a trusty Seiko or a handsome Omega. But there’s a whole other world of watches out there, ones that don’t just keep time but also rake in millions of dollars at auction. 

If you’ve ever wondered what makes a tiny, ticking piece of machinery worth millions, then you’ve come to the right place. While most of us can’t imagine forking the cost of a mansion for something that fits our wrists, there are plenty of collectors and connoisseurs out there who are more than happy to drop millions at the drop of a gavel. 

These watches aren’t just about telling the time anymore; they’re about owning a piece of history, art, and, in some cases – or maybe even every case – status. 

But as you’d expect, the world’s most expensive watches ever sold at auction aren’t your run-of-the-mill wrist candy. These aren’t the kind of watches you’ll find in the window of any regular jewelers. 

These are watches that combine rarity, craftsmanship, and a touch of fame to create something almost completely one-of-a-kind. So, what exactly makes a watch rake in the big bucks? Is it all about diamonds and gold, or is there more to the story?

What Makes a Watch Fetch a High Auction Price?

So, what exactly makes a watch go from a cool, high-performing accessory to something worth more than an actual house? Well, to be honest, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer, and as you’ll soon find out, every watch has its own unique story and set of reasons for being valued so highly. But there are also a few key ingredients that can send a watch’s price tag souring. 

For starters, the rarity of a watch makes a big difference to its value. The fewer pieces made, the higher the price will likely be. Some watches are limited editions while others are one-of-a-kind, and buzzwords like this can get collectors salivating. 

To add to this, when a watch is made by some of the most prestigious watchmakers in the world, such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Audemars Piguet, you’re also more likely going to hold sway in the auction world. These brands have been around for decades, even centuries, and have built a reputation for producing exceptional timepieces.

Complications are another thing to consider. In the watch world, complications refer to features beyond just telling time. These could be anything from a perpetual calendar to a moon phase indicator or even a split-second chronograph. The more complicated, the better. And the more people are willing to shell out. 

Similarly, materials help. Sure, gold and diamonds come to mind, but it’s also more about the craftsmanship and uniqueness of these materials that really add value. Some watches are made with super rare materials or are meticulously hand-crafted down to the smallest detail. When you’re dealing with that level of precision, you’re not just buying a watch but a work of art.

Finally, we need to talk about provenance. This is a fancy word for “who owned this thing before?” For example, a watch that once belonged to a celebrity or a historical figure is much more likely to sell for the same design that’s been sitting in a shop window for several years.  

Take the Omega Speedmaster, which belonged to astronaut Dave Scott, as an example. This was one he wore during the Apollo 15 mission, and it made history as the first privately owned timepiece to go to the moon. When it hit the auction block, it sold for a whopping $1.6 million. Personal connections and backstories are a game changer. 

Top 5 Watches Sold at Auction 

Now that we know what makes a watch sell for insane prices let’s dive into the watches that have broken all the records. Some of these have stories attached that are just as cool as the watches themselves. So, without further ado, let’s take a look at the top 5 most expensive watches ever sold at auction…

#1 Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime (ref. 6300A-010)

The Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime (ref. 6300A-010) is a true masterpiece, breaking records when it sold for a staggering $31.19 million at the Only Watch Charity Auction in Geneva in 2019. What makes this watch so special? First, it’s the only Grandmaster Chime ever made in stainless steel—a material rarely used by Patek Philippe for its grand complications. 

It’s also a watch that features 20 complications – yes, that’s a lot. This includes an alarm that chimes the pre-set time and a date repeater that sounds the date on demand. It’s also equipped with two dials housed in a reversible case, allowing the wearer to display either dial. 

With “The Only One” engraved on the case, it’s also a timepiece that oozes exclusivity and prestige. Combining its rarity, complexity, and the charitable cause behind its creation, the Grandmaster Chime stands as one of the most valuable watches ever sold.

#2 Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication (ref. 198.385) 

Another model from Patek Philippe is the Henry Graves Supercomplication (ref. 198.385). Created in 1933 for American banker Henry Graves Jr., this stunning timepiece features 24 complications, making it one of the most complex mechanical watches ever made. 

The watch took nearly five years to craft and remains a testament to Patek Philippe’s exceptional artistry and technical expertise. Its most notable features include a perpetual calendar, sunrise and sunset times, a moon phase indicator, and a minute repeater. 

The intricacy of its design is matched only by its beauty, with an elegant gold case adorned with exquisite engravings. In 2014, the Henry Graves Supercomplication was sold at auction for a jaw-dropping $24 million, making it the most expensive watch ever sold at the time.

#3 Rolex Daytona “Paul Newman” (ref. 6239)

The Rolex Daytona “Paul Newman” (ref. 6239) is arguably one of the most famous designs from the Swiss watch giant, and for good reason. Originally introduced in the 1960s, this watch gained its nickname thanks to the legendary actor and race car driver Paul Newman, who was often seen wearing it. The design featured an Art Deco-like dial with a cream backdrop and striking black sub-dials – a combination of details that remains a huge draw for collectors today. 

In addition to having a celebrity connection, the Rolex Daytona “Paul Newman” was a rare timepiece, with only a limited number of people dressed in these specific aesthetic details. In 2017, a “Paul Newman” Daytona sold for an astounding $17 million at auction, making it one of the most expensive wristwatches ever sold. 

Today, many models have emerged that resemble the original Daytona, but none carry the same cachet. Even though these newer versions don’t fetch millions, they are still some of Rolex’s most coveted designs.

#4 Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (ref. 1518)

Our next legendary timepiece is the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (ref. 1518. Launched in 1941, this model was the world’s first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch ever to be produced in a series by a manufacturer. 

Its innovative perpetual calendar complication accurately tracks the date and accounts for leap years. But what makes the reference 1518 exceptionally rare is the fact that only four examples were ever produced in stainless steel. 

This unique material, combined with the watch’s already limited production, has elevated its status among collectors. In 2016, one of these steel models sold at auction for an astonishing $11 million. Other models with differing case materials have also been up for auction since, and although none have quite beaten their predecessor, they rarely fail to hit six figures. 

#5 Patek Philippe “Prince Mohammed Tewlik A. Toussou” (ref. 1518 with French calendar)

Yes, you read that right. Our final watch in today’s rundown is yet another Patek Philippe and another reference 1518. This release was also part of a limited production run, with only 14 known pink gold versions in existence. It’s also largely set apart by its unique French calendar, which adds a special charm to its already sophisticated design. 

In December 2021, the Patek Philippe “Prince Mohammed Tewlik A. Toussou” watch, named as such for the royal figure that owned it previously, made headlines when it sold for an impressive $9.57 million at a Sotheby’s auction in New York. Its combination of rich history, royal provenance, and the allure of its pink gold casing contributed to its elevated value.

Conclusion

So, there you have it, the five most expensive watches ever sold at auction. As we’ve hopefully demonstrated, these are watches that are famed for their high levels of craftsmanship, rarity, and history. 

From the unique Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime to the iconic Paul Newman Daytona, each piece has captivated collectors for their stunning designs and intricate complications and their connections to famous figures and pivotal moments in time. 

They may not be watches we’ll ever own personally, but it’s certainly fun to hear about their stories and the extraordinary price tags they’ve reached!

We’ll forgive you if you haven’t thought much about your watch’s crystal. At the end of the day, this thing is almost entirely transparent so it’s not going to be the first thing you notice. That clear thing covering the dial does a lot more than you might expect, however. But isn’t it just glass? Well, yes… and no. That “glass” is actually called watch crystal, and it does a lot more than just look pretty. 

It’s a little like your watch’s armor, and it greatly affects how tough your watch is, how clear the dial looks and importantly, how much you’ll be shelling out for the timepiece at checkout. If you’ve owned watches in the past, it’s likely you’ve noticed scratches popping up on some watch crystals more than others, or you’ve noticed some watch crystals looking perfectly clear while others can be a little cloudy. That’s because not all watch crystals are the same. 

In fact, there are three types of main watch crystal types: sapphire crystal, mineral crystal and acrylic. Each has its own superpowers and its own weaknesses, so the type you choose can make a real difference in your watch’s durability and aesthetic. In this guide, we’ll be breaking down these three crystal types for you. We’ll walk you through the pros and cons of each, so you can make the right decision for you when it comes to choosing your next timepiece.

The Acrylic Crystal 

Alright, let’s get into the wonderful, occasionally scratchy world of acrylic glass! I like to think of acrylic glass as the humble, hardworking, and slightly underappreciated material that covers the face of many watches. While it might not be as flashy as sapphire or as refined as mineral glass, acrylic is a classic choice for a reason.

 What Exactly Is Acrylic Glass? 

First things first, despite being called “acrylic glass,” it’s not glass at all. Acrylic is actually a type of plastic, specifically polymethyl methacrylate (or PMMA if you’re feeling fancy). You might also hear it called Plexiglas or plexiglass. It’s lightweight, clear as can be, and is used for watch crystals because it shares some glass-like optical properties while being a lot easier on the wallet. It’s been a go-to material in watchmaking for decades and is especially common in vintage watches since it was used a lot more regularly during the 70’s and 80’s.  

 A Quick History of Acrylic in Watchmaking 

Acrylic glass, or PMMA, was first developed in the 1920s by British chemists Rowland Hill and John Crawford, who were working with the company Imperial Chemical Industries. It was later introduced commercially in 1933 by the German company Röhm and Haas under the trade name Plexiglas. This material became especially popular due to its unique combination of transparency, durability, and lightweight properties, mimicking the appearance of glass but with greater resistance to impact and lower cost. 

Its early uses were mainly industrial and military. For example, during World War II, acrylic glass was widely used in aircraft canopies, submarine periscopes, and even gun turrets, valued for its impact resistance and transparency. After the war, acrylic became more accessible and was adapted for consumer products, including watch crystals. It first appeared on watches around the 1950s, and quickly became a standard material, especially throughout the 1970s and 1980s. 

Pros of Acrylic Glass 

·       Impact Resistance – One of the top reasons acrylic has stuck around for so long is its durability. Unlike glass, which can crack or shatter, acrylic is more flexible and can absorb a hit without falling to pieces. This makes it ideal for sports or outdoor watches and any watch likely to see some rough handling. It’s why a lot of smartwatch brands tend to use acrylic glass on their designs, because it’s best for those that like to go hiking or jump out of planes. It can take a beating without flinching.

·       Light as a Feather – Acrylic glass is noticeably lighter than other crystal materials like mineral glass or sapphire, making it super comfortable to wear. If you’re after an everyday watch that doesn’t feel like a weight on your wrist, acrylic is a solid choice. Less weight on your wrist means it’s most likely going to be more comfortable.

·       Cost-Effective Choice – Acrylic glass is cheaper to produce than other crystal types, so it’s often found in more affordable watches. This means you can get a stylish, functional watch without spending a fortune, which is great news for newcomers to the watch world or anyone looking to expand their collection on a budget.

·       Easy to Polish – While acrylic might scratch more easily than other materials (we’ll get to that in a minute), it has a secret weapon: you can polish those scratches away! With a little bit of polishing, acrylic crystals can be buffed back to clear, like-new condition. No need for costly replacements or worrying about every little nick or scuff—just polish, and it’s like they were never there. 

Cons of Acrylic Glass

·       Scratch-Prone – Despite acrylic happily taking a strong hit without cracking, it can be pretty easy to scratch. Toss it in your pocket with your keys, or brush it up against a rough surface, and it’s likely to come away with a few marks. But as we mentioned earlier, scratches on acrylic are generally fixable with a quick polish. However, if you’re someone who wants a completely scratch-free watch face all the time, acrylic might drive you a little nuts.

·       Looks a Bit “Cheap” – At the end of the day, acrylic is plastic, and it sometimes lacks the high-end look that mineral or sapphire crystal can give a watch. Especially when you hold it up next to sapphire, it can seem a little less sophisticated or luxe. That said, plenty of watch lovers appreciate the retro, warm look that acrylic gives, so this really comes down to personal taste.

The Mineral Crystal

Now, let’s talk about mineral glass, the reliable middle ground of watch crystals. Mineral glass is probably the most common glass you’ll find on mid-range watches, giving you a solid blend of durability, affordability, and clarity.

What Exactly is Mineral Glass?

This time mineral glass is, as its name suggests, a type of glass. But it’s not just any old glass like what our drinking glasses are made of. It’s toughened up with a process called tempering (or hardening) where the glass is heated to high temperatures and then cooled rapidly. This treatment strengthens the glass, making it harder and more resistant to scratches and impacts than regular glass. It won’t take on sapphire crystal in terms of hardness, but it’s got way more scratch resistance than acrylic.

A Quick History of Mineral Glass

Mineral glass began making its way into watches during the mid-20th century, as watchmakers were looking for a stronger alternative to acrylic that was still cost-effective. By the 1970s and 1980s, mineral glass was all over the place in the watch world, quickly becoming the industry standard for most mid-range models. Its clarity, scratch resistance, and lower price point helped mineral glass become a favorite among both brands and buyers alike. Interestingly, there is no inventor credited to the creation of mineral glass but many accessible watch brands, like Seiko and Citizen, are known for playing a significant role in popularizing the material.

Pros of Mineral Glass

·       Scratch Resistance – One of mineral glass’s big selling points is its scratch resistance. While not as tough as sapphire, mineral glass is sturdy enough to handle everyday knocks and scrapes without showing too much wear. If you’re careful with your watch but still want something resilient enough for regular use, mineral glass strikes a good balance. It’s definitely more scratch-resistant than acrylic, so it doesn’t need constant touch-ups to stay looking nice and clear.

·       Cost-Effective – Mineral glass is affordable to produce, which keeps prices down on watches that use it. This makes it a popular choice for budget-conscious watch collectors who want durability without breaking the bank. You get a quality crystal that offers some resistance to scratching and impact, all while keeping your wallet happy.

·       Clear as Day – Mineral glass is known for its optical clarity, allowing you to see your watch’s dial and hands clearly. In some cases, it’s even coated with an anti-reflective (AR) layer, so you get an extra-clear view without those annoying reflections. This is especially nice if you’re outdoors a lot or tend to check the time in bright settings, as it keeps the dial sharp and easy to read.

Cons of Mineral Glass

·       Prone to Scratches (Eventually) – While mineral glass is more scratch-resistant than acrylic, it’s not invincible. With daily wear, it may eventually collect some fine scratches, especially if you’re around abrasive surfaces a lot. Unlike acrylic, which can be polished back to perfection, mineral glass scratches are tough to remove, so it’s best to be a little cautious if you want it to stay pristine.

·       Risk of Breaking and Shattering – Mineral glass is toughened, but it’s still glass at the end of the day. Under heavy impact, it can crack or shatter, which makes it a bit more vulnerable than sapphire, which has both greater scratch and shatter resistance. If you’re looking for ultimate durability and are willing to invest a little more, you might want to consider sapphire instead.

The Sapphire Crystal

Finally, we have sapphire crystal glass which, to be completely honest, it the crème-de-la-crème of watch crystals. It’s known for being insanely tough, ultra-scratch resistant and has a beautiful sheen to it that makes reading watch dials effortless. Its hardness is only second to diamonds (the hardest material known to man).

What Exactly Is Sapphire Crystal?

Sapphire crystal isn’t glass, but a synthetic material made from aluminum oxide which is the same stuff as sapphire gemstones. But rather than being blue or pink as we best know sapphires, it is its clearest form. To make it, they use a process called the Verneuil method which involves heating up aluminum oxide crystals to super-high temperatures and then forming them into a transparent, super-durable material. Then it’s cut, polished, and shaped to fit your watch.

A Quick History of Sapphire Crystal

Sapphire crystal was introduced during the early 1900’s but was originally used for industrial purposes, like in scientific instruments and camera lenses. It wasn’t until the 1960s and 70s that watchmakers started catching on and using it for watch crystals. It’s thought that one of the first watches to use sapphire crystal was Jaeger-LeCoultre in the 1930’s with the Swiss watchmaker placing it on their iconic Reverso watch. But really, it was Rolex that first used it extensively, spurring the material to be a widespread material with models like the Rolex Daytona in the 1980’s. Today, sapphire crystal is incredibly popular in many watches, notably those in the luxury category.

Pros of Sapphire Crystal

·       Harder Than a Rock: Seriously, sapphire crystal is tough. It ranks a 9 on the Mohs scale (with the diamond ranked at 10), which means it’s almost impossible to scratch. Owning a sapphire crystal watch means you rarely have to worry about getting any scratches or cracks at all.

·       Crystal Clear: Sapphire crystal is known for its amazing clarity. You’ll get no fog, no distortion – just a perfect, clear view of your watch dial. It’s like looking through a sheet of glass that’s been perfectly polished.

·       Low Maintenance: Unlike acrylic and mineral glass, which can scratch over time, sapphire stays flawless for way longer. That means fewer trips to the watch shop for polishing and cleaning.

·       Chemical Resistant: We’re all prone to being a little clumsy, so if you accidently splash coffee or hand sanitizer on your watch, you can feel assured that sapphire crystal is resistant to most chemicals.

·       That Luxe Look: Finally, watches with sapphire crystal just look more premium. It has this beautiful shine that gives the watch a high-end vibe. This is especially clear when you place a sapphire crystal watch next to one made of acrylic.

Cons of Sapphire Crystal

·       A Little Brittle: Despite sapphire crystal being incredibly hard, it’s not entirely “shatterproof.” It could still chip or crack if you drop it or hit it hard against a solid surface. So, as tough as it is on scratches, it’s a little more delicate in the impact department.

·       Price Tag: Sapphire crystal is expensive to make. So, watches with sapphire crystal are generally pricier. It’s why you’ll always find sapphire crystal glass on top-end watches like those from Omega, Rolex and Patek Phillippe. It’s the best of the best, so it’s used by the best of the best.

·   No Fixing Scratches: Unlike acrylic glass, which can be polished if it gets a scratch, sapphire doesn’t really “polish” the same way. Once it gets a scratch, you’re stuck with it until you’re willing to replace the entire crystal.

Why is the Watch Crystal Important?

That clear shiny piece of crystal that sits on top of your watch dial is incredibly important, we promise. It might seem like a small thing, but the right crystal can make a huge difference to how your watch wears, looks and lasts.

First off, watch crystals are your watch’s first line of defense. It’s the material that will take the hit when you accidentally knock your watch on a doorframe or drop it on the floor. If you pick a cheap, soft crystal like acrylic, you’re likely going to be dealing with scratches every few months. On the other hand, sapphire crystal is almost indestructible. It won’t get scratched up anywhere near as easily, keeping your watch looking fresh and sharp for much longer.

Next, there’s clarity. If you want a watch that looks as clear and shiny as it does in the store, you’ve got to think about the crystal. Sapphire gives you an unbeatable view of the dial with no distortion. Mineral glass and acrylic glass are still breathtakingly clear, but since they scratch a lot easier, they can eventually get an almost “hazy” effect which will in turn affect the legibility of the dial.

Then there’s the cost. Sure, you might love the idea of rocking a Grand Seiko with sapphire crystal, but if you’re on a budget, mineral glass or even acrylic might be the way to go. Just keep in mind that these cheaper options may scratch more easily and might need some more TLC. Instead, if you’re someone who wants low-maintenance gear, then investing in sapphire might save you hassle in the long run.

Finally, style matters too. Watch crystal plays a big role in the aesthetics of your watch. A crystal with that perfect shine with little to not scratches will undoubtedly elevate the whole vibe of your watch.

Conclusion

At the end of the day, the type of watch crystal that’s best for you really depends on your personal style, lifestyle, and budget. If it were me, I’d save up a bit more for sapphire crystal since it’s super durable, scratch-resistant, and looks amazing. But I totally get that not everyone wants to drop that much on a watch, and that’s okay. Acrylic and mineral glass can still look great and hold up well if you take care of them. It’s all about finding the right balance that works for you.

More often than not, I find myself reporting on watches that have just launched. I’m usually trawling the latest exhibitions and trying on brand-new pieces that are fresh off the design bench. So, it’s not often I get to review a watch that’s been out for a while, whether it’s a watch I previously missed or one I’ve not had the chance to sit down with for a long time. 

In the case of today’s review, it’s the latter. The Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 is a watch I’ve not seen, or honestly really thought of, since I first started collecting watches. That’s because this is a timepiece that came out over a decade ago, a time before Grand Seiko split from Seiko to become its own brand. 

So, why the trip back in time to review the SBGM021? Well, it’s simple: sometimes, it’s worth taking a second look at a watch purely for the fun of it. Has this Grand Seiko kept its original charm, or has it begun to feel a bit outdated?

A Decade-Old Watch

In case you’re not familiar with it, the story of Grand Seiko began in 1960 as Seiko’s high-end sub-brand. It was a collection created to show the world that Japanese craftsmanship, or at least Seiko’s craftsmanship, could rival those that were leading the way in Switzerland. 

Their goal was simple: to create a watch with incredible accuracy, durability, and beauty. For decades, the brand rather quietly crafted timepieces under the Seiko umbrella, slowly but surely earning a reputation among watch enthusiasts for the exact reasons they set out: beauty, precision, and robustness. 

However, in 2017, Grand Seiko officially split from Seiko to operate as a distinct luxury brand. While still owned by the same parent company, this independence gave Grand Seiko greater creative control and allowed it to further elevate its designs and innovation, competing directly with established Swiss luxury brands. 

This shift marked Grand Seiko’s evolution from a hidden gem to a front-line luxury label known worldwide for its incredible craftsmanship and distinct, heritage-inspired designs. 

The Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 is a prime example of a model from Grand Seiko’s “pre-independence” era. Released in 2013, it features a rare dial layout where the Seiko logo sits prominently at 12 o’clock while the Grand Seiko logo rests at 6 o’clock. 

This layout is a relic of its days as a Seiko sub-brand, making it something of a historical artifact and a piece of evidence of Grand Seiko’s pre-transitional period. 

Owning a pre-2017 Grand Seiko like the SBGM021 is, in a way, owning a piece of the brand’s legacy as it’s a design that reflects the brand’s journey from a prestigious but understated sub-brand to a globally respected luxury label. 

Its historical significance has also added to its value, especially among collectors who appreciate Grand Seiko’s history. It’s for this reason, it’s a pleasure to get hands-on with the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 watch again after over a decade.

A Vintage Case 

The case of the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 watch is a wonderful blend of vintage design cues and modern craftsmanship, drawing clear inspiration from Grand Seiko’s original 1967 62GS case, albeit with updated proportions. 

Measuring 39.5mm across and 13.7mm thick, it’s a really nice size for my five-and-a-half inch. It’s a set of dimensions I’d happily wear daily, and yet, with its polished finish, it gives the model a formal edge. 

One of the standout features of the SBGM021’s case is its Zaratsu polishing, a technique that’s well-known by Grand Seiko watch collectors at this point. Achieving Zaratsu’s mirror-finish shine requires highly skilled artisans who have mastered the art after several years of training. 

The process involves holding the precious stainless steel against a spinning tin plate at precise angles and pressure, creating a reflection so smooth and clear that, when I wore this watch, I could use parts of the case like a mirror! 

And given the rounded, almost “pot-bellied” profile of this case’s architecture, that perfect polish is a challenge to achieve, demanding absolute precision to get that seamless, symmetrical finish. 

The lugs of the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 are a highlight, too. They’re short, gently curved, and feature broad polished facets that really catch the light. 

I wouldn’t mind a touch more satin brushing for contrast, but as it stands, the variation between polished sections on the case sides and lug tops adds just enough depth to keep things visually interesting. 

Then there’s the domed box sapphire crystal on top, a feature that subtly nods to the watch’s vintage roots. It almost looks like 1960s plexiglass, except you can expect a whole lot more scratch resistance and durability. 

The front pairs with a sapphire case back, which allows for an unobstructed view of the automatic movement working hard inside. The case back has six screws around the edge to help ensure its water resistance of 30 meters. 

In a similar fashion, the crown, at 3 o’clock, is gently knurled, making it easy to operate. It’s a simple push-pull crown and is embossed with the GS logo in relief. 

An Ivory Lacquer Dial 

For the dial, the Japanese watchmaker has opted for a beautiful ivory lacquer base, which fits all too well with the vintage charm it aims for. It has the same classic refinement of early Grand Seiko models with a rich, creamy finish that captures and softens light beautifully. Like the sizing and polishing of the case, it’s a color that works well during the day as well as during formal evening occasions. 

One of the first things that catches your eye is the dual branding on the dial. It’s an unusual feature in today’s world and a direct result of this model’s pre-2017 origins when Grand Seiko was still a Seiko sub-brand. 

At 12 o’clock, the silvered “Seiko” logo is prominently displayed, while the vintage “Grand Seiko” insignia is subtly positioned at 6 o’clock, accompanied by the “Automatic” and “GMT” text in classic black print. 

Some might find the dual branding distracting or less “luxury” than post-2017 Grand Seiko models, but to me, it adds character. It’s a reminder of the brand’s history and offers a genuine vintage appeal that’s rare in today’s market. 

The hands and markers also help the dial shine, both literally and figuratively. Each hour marker is crafted with micro-metric faceting, meticulously finished and polished using diamond-tipped tools by hand to catch the light with a jewel-like quality. 

It’s these painstaking details that make Grand Seiko’s dials feel almost alive. The markers, like the sword-like dauphine hands, gleam with a mix of satin and high-polish finishes, creating contrast against the ivory lacquer. 

Of course, you also have the GMT function which is tastefully executed with a short blued GMT hand. It’s a subtle pop of color that contrasts elegantly against the other polished steel hardware and cream backdrop. 

Unlike many GMT watches where the extra hand can clutter the dial, here it’s compact and discreet, marked with a thick arrow tip that’s easy to read without overwhelming the design. The dial’s internal 24-hour scale is printed in black for clarity, aligning with the black minute track that runs along the outer edge. 

The only other feature to note on the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 watch’s dial is the date window placed at 3 o’clock. It’s been cleverly integrated into the layout, taking the place of the hour marker in a way that maintains the dial’s symmetry. Framed elegantly with its own polished silver border, it provides functionality without disrupting the balance.

Movement 

Housed inside the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 watch is the automatic winding Caliber 9S66. Yes, it’s not quite as spectacular as maybe Grand Seiko’s well-known Spring Drive or Hi-Beat movements, but it’s still a beautiful in-house movement that features everything you could need, from an impressive power reserve to chronometer-worthy levels of accuracy. 

The “9S66” designation of the caliber tells you all you need to know. The 9S indicates that it’s from Grand Seiko’s mechanical series, while the “66” points to its dual-time capability, allowing you to track a second time zone with ease. 

This model includes a “true GMT” function, meaning the hour and GMT hands are independently adjustable. In practical terms, this allows you to set the local hour hand separately from the GMT hand, an especially convenient feature for travelers since you can adjust the local time without interfering with the main time display or the second time zone. 

The Caliber 9S66’s daily accuracy is particularly impressive, adjusted to an astonishing -3 to +5 seconds per day. That’s better than the industry-standard chronometer specifications, which permit -4 to +6 seconds. 

Grand Seiko also rigorously adjusts each movement to six positions rather than the typical five positions used in Swiss chronometers. It’s just another way Grand Seiko proves they’re in direct competition with the Swiss, always trying to do better. 

Beyond its precision, the Caliber 9S66 is robust and built to last, with a 72-hour (or 3-day) power reserve that gives you plenty of leeway before needing a rewind. The movement uses 35 jewels and incorporates Grand Seiko’s proprietary SPRON materials in both the mainspring and hairspring, providing exceptional anti-magnetic resistance and resilience. It also operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour.

Straps

The strap isn’t usually the first thing you notice about a watch, but upon taking the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 out of its box for this review, I was really surprised at how nice the strap felt and looked. It’s subtle yet unmistakably luxurious, with a brown alligator print on the top and a soft, milky-smooth calfskin lining on the underside. The calfskin feels incredibly supple against the wrist, giving it a broken-in comfort right from the first wear.

The shade of brown is a classic match for the ivory dial, and the brown stitching adds just enough structure without taking away from the overall refinement. Adding a vintage-inspired touch, the stainless steel pin buckle harkens back to Grand Seiko’s early designs from the 1960s. It features a beautifully engraved Grand Seiko logo, carefully set against a textured backdrop that’s intentionally noticeable and has a single, push button-release fold for easy wear.

At 19mm, the lugs might pose a challenge for finding alternative straps, but the SBGM021’s drilled lugs make swapping them a breeze if you’re in the mood for a new look. While the alligator strap gives it a formal edge, a vintage-style calfskin strap with off-white stitching could add a bit of rugged character and help the watch transition from a dress watch to more of a comfortable travel companion.

On-Wrist Experience

So, how did I find wearing the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021 watch this past week? Honestly, it’s been a delightful experience. At 39.5mm wide and 13.7mm thick, the watch manages to sit lower on the wrist than you might expect, thanks to its bowl-shaped case design. This makes it surprisingly versatile, fitting a wide range of wrist sizes, from as small as 6 inches to as large as 8 inches.

While it is slightly thicker than anticipated, keep in mind that some of that is due to the domed sapphire crystal, which adds to the vintage appeal. It’s also a thickness that is manageable, and unless you’re completely committed to a super tight shirt cuff, you’ll still be able to pull this off nicely with formal attire. 

The alligator strap adds another layer of comfort that is worth noting. It feels luxurious against the skin and contributes to keeping the weight of the stainless steel nicely balanced. It’s not a heavy watch, but you still feel like you’re wearing something solid and special.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko SBGM021, while a remarkable timepiece, is now over ten years old, making it somewhat of a rarity in the market today. If you’re on the hunt for this specific model, don’t expect to find it brand new at your local authorized Grand Seiko retailer. If you do, please just make sure they are authorized to sell Grand Seiko watches first. We’d hate for you to purchase a counterfeit timepiece. 

For those looking for authentic models, stick to websites like Exquisite Timepieces which are reputable authorized Grand Seiko stockists, selling all their new models complete with official paperwork and warranties.

For those who want to get their hands on the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM021, your best bet is to explore the second-hand market. While this model is relatively scarce, it can occasionally be found.

The watch typically sells for around $4,000 in the pre-owned market. This price point reflects its historical significance and the overall collectability of Grand Seiko watches today.

And if you’re unable to find a pre-owned SBGM021 or if you prefer something brand new, consider the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM221. Priced at $4,600, it features the same stunning ivory lacquer dial and GMT complication, along with a compact set of dimensions. Keep in mind that it boasts the updated Grand Seiko logo at 12 o’clock, eliminating the Seiko branding entirely, but it retains much of the charm and specifications of the SBGM021.

Conclusion

So there you have it; the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM221 might just be even better now than it was when it was released. It continues to exemplify everything the brand stands for, even after a decade, offering high levels of beauty, accuracy, and durability. 

It’s a dress watch that perfectly blends elegance and functionality, giving you a formal look with technology to get you through every day and symbolizing a piece of Grand Seiko’s history we should never forget.

I’m particularly fond of the rounded case and domed sapphire crystal. It gives the watch a beautiful vintage aesthetic that makes you forget you own a modern-day timepiece and, instead something truly from the 1960s. I also love the leather strap. It’s incredibly soft and comfortable and complements the ivory lacquer dial nicely.

Finally, I need to applaud Grand Seiko for the thoughtful dial layout. It’s all too easy for GMT watch dials to feel overly complicated and busy, especially when incorporating a date complication and dual branding, like in this instance. 

And while I know it’s not the cleanest of dials, it’s still sophisticated, refined, and easily legible. It’s for all these reasons the Grand Seiko Automatic GMT SBGM221 watch has retained its appeal even after ten years.