Author: Win Shearn Seah

Ever felt like you’re wearing a watch so thick that you feel like you’re wearing a Ben 10 watch and turn yourself into an alien superhero? Do you feel tired after a wrist workout by wearing your watch? Well, look no further.

Watches can sometimes be thick for a reason, but sometimes, it’s just because it can make you feel substantial on the wrist. If you’re someone who wants to feel something lighter, something a bit more comfortable, then you’re on the right page.

About Ultra-Thin Watches 

Back in the mid-1700s, when pocket watches were still the main instrument to tell time, watchmaker Jean-Antoine Lépine was discovering how to make pocket watches less substantial. Since then, he has made significant steps in horology and achieved a much thinner pocket watch using a mechanical movement, just like most watches today. 

After understanding the inspiration behind making a timekeeping piece thinner, the following breakthroughs are more about “who can make the thinnest watch” and a competition between who’s the “better” watchmaker. 

In general, a thinner watch means a thinner mechanical movement, and creating a thinner mechanical movement is a whole new level of complexity. Some of the best watchmakers struggled to create ultra-thin watches because it’s as complicated as a perpetual calendar. 

Notable watch brands such as Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, and Audemars Piguet are well known for competing in making the thinnest watch. 

How They Do It

A normal three-handed watch would generally have a thickness of about 9mm-12mm. But an ultra-thin timepiece can be as little as 1.75mm, which belongs to the current king of thinnest watches, the RM UP-01 Ferrari.  You might wonder, how do they do it?

In general, these thin movements are achieved by using a micro-rotor instead of a full-sized automatic movement. Because a micro-rotor is much smaller, it can be placed inside of the mechanical movement instead of using a traditional rotor.

This greatly reduces the thickness of the watch. However, because of the small rotor, it is harder for it to swing naturally, therefore making it harder to wind. Watchmakers would have to make many adjustments to figure out the best setting for the watch without compromising the quality of the movement. 

However, the recent discovery of quartz has helped mitigate all the difficulties and problems that a watchmaker might find in creating an ultra-thin watch. Not only is it more accurate and less problematic, but it’s also thin because it has much fewer components under the hood.

Should You Buy An Ultra-Thin Watch?

If you’re an individual who always dresses like James Bond or Michael Corleone from The Godfather, I think an ultra-thin watch is the ultimate partner for you. This is purely because ultra-thin timepieces can easily hide under the cuff of your suit, showing off class and elegance whenever you pull back your shirt slightly to see your beautiful watch on your wrist.

If you live somewhere extremely hot, or suits are just not your style, these ultra-thin watches can be handy, too. Slimmer timepieces are very comfortable to wear as they sit very well on the wrist and often feel like you’re not wearing anything. 

If you’re a watch enthusiast, you would definitely appreciate ultra-thin watches. The research, the engineering, and the craftsmanship are just second to none.

Our Top Picks For Ultra Thin Watches

Here are our picks for the best ultra-thin watches you can get today.

1. Mido Baroncelli Heritage Gent (ref. M027.407.16.050.00)

The Mido Baroncelli line is Mido’s dress watch collection and has the thinnest case in their collection. The Heritage Gent model really shows the elegance of the watch with its well-polished dauphine hour and minute hands, beautiful blue second hands, and a paper-white dial. 

It comes in a 39mm stainless steel case, an open case back to showcase its automatic movement, and just a mere 7.3mm thick. You’d also have the option to opt for a leather strap or a stainless steel bracelet. 

An automatic movement, a date function, and a sapphire crystal for just over $1000, it is definitely one of the best affordable ultra-thin watches you could get. 

2. Hamilton Jazzmaster Thinline Auto (ref. H38525881)

Hamilton is well known for being the most featured watch brand in pop culture. From movies like Indiana Jones to Elvis wearing it, it’s no wonder that Hamilton is one of the most popular Swiss watch brands. The Jazzmaster is no exception. One of the models from the Jazzmaster collection was also actually featured in Kong: Skull Island (2017), worn by Houston Brooks. 

This Jazzmaster has a stunning sunburst grey dial with vintage-looking stick markers and a date window at 6. Encasing the automatic movement is a 40mm stainless case and is only 8.45mm thick. The thin case with a leather strap will definitely wear comfortably on the wrist and certainly make a great companion if you’re ever stranded on Skull Island. 

You can get the Jazzmaster Thinline for $1,025.

3. Junghans Meister Handaufzug (ref. 27/3200.02)

Junghans is most famous for their minimalistic, Bauhaus-style watches and is one of the few German brands on this list. The Meister Handaufzug, which also translates to “Hand Wound”, is the thinnest watch in the Junghans brand. 

The watch has a plain white dial with dauphine hands and line markers. On the surface, the timepiece looks very simple and very minimalistic, but the more you look at it, the more details that you’ll get. Applied polished markers at 12, 3, 6, and 9, a small seconds hand at 6 on an inwardly-curved surface really makes the watch more alive.

Completing the package is a 37.7mm stainless case that is just 7.3mm thick. It features their beautiful in-house hand-winding movement and is also showcased on the caseback.

The Junghans Meister Handaufzug can be yours for $1,400.

4. NOMOS Minimatik Midnight Blue (ref. 1205)

Another German brand on this list is Nomos, and their style of watches is definitely a unique one. Imagine a minimalistic design but with a sprinkle of quirkiness, which I really do adore. 

The Minimatik Midnight Blue has a similar look to the Junghans as it also has a small second hand at 6 with an inwardly-curved design. But with Arabic numerals and a splash of color. The playful red second hand, contrasting with the midnight blue dial, really makes the watch more fun. It’s a dial that the more you look at it, the more you’ll get immersed. 

The Minimatik has a 35.5mm stainless steel case, which is a great unisex size and with a thickness of 8.9mm. Powering the watch is their in-house automatic movement with a power reserve of 43 hours. It’s a great everyday watch, and if you share your watches with your missus, this is the one. You can find it for $3,800.

5. Cartier Drive Extra Flat (ref. WSNM0011)

Cartier has been killing it lately, not only in the jewelry game but also in the watch game. They have stayed true to their original designs but also modernized the movements of their watches, making it timeless and reliable at the same time. 

The Drive Extra Flat follows the trend of Cartier’s signature big Roman numerals on their markers with blued hands and a sapphire blue crown. What’s more unique is the rounded square case and the sunburst silver finish on the dial that gives it a more modernized look. 

With their in-house hand winding movement, Cartier is able to fit it in a 39mm wide and 6.6mm thin stainless steel case. You can easily fit this watch under the cuff and wind your watch, which brings you back to the 50s. 

This stunning timepiece from Cartier comes with a retail price of $6,450.

6. Chopard L.U.C XP (ref. 168592-3002)

The Chopard L.U.C collection is Chopard’s more elegant and dressy collection. In fact, it is the thinnest watch yet at just 3.3mm thick. They were able to create such a thin movement with the help of two coaxial barrels and a small self-winding mechanical movement. Not only is it thin, but it has a respectable 58-hour power reserve as well.

Protecting the movement is a 40mm stainless steel case along with a fabric strap. The design of the dial shows a resemblance of the blue virgin wool of the strap; it has this sort of dark blue jeans-textured dial. Along with the complex dial are the tastefully added rose gold touches of the numerals and hands, showing off a much more sophisticated look than the first glance would suggest. 

This version of the L.U.C XP retails for $7,525.

7. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual Wind (ref. 81180/000R-B518)

Vacheron is one of the oldest watch brands in the world and is often regarded as part of the holy trinity of watches.  

The Patrimony is one of the classiest and most elegant watches that you can find. At first glance, it’s just a three-handed watch with simple stick markers and hands. But with the introduction of their proprietary pink gold it brings the watch to another level. 

The pink gold 40mm case contrasted with the deep blue sunburst dial is stunning to look at. Featuring a manual winding movement, they were able to make the watch as thin as 6.79mm. If you’re after a no-nonsense dress watch with an alligator strap for $22,100, this is it. 

8. Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse (ref. 5738R)

Remember I mentioned the holy trinity in the 7th point? Patek Philippe is one of them, too. Don’t let the recent boom in popularity of integrated sports watches hide the fact that Patek Philippe can make a proper dress watch. 

The Golden Ellipse 5738R is the 50th anniversary of the release of the Golden Ellipse line. The watch shows off an ebony black sunburst dial matched with applied hour markers and sleek, slender hands that are also made from rose gold. 

What’s also rose gold is the 34.5mm x 39.5mm rectangular case that really gives off the classic, vintage vibe. Inside the case is a Calibre 240 self-winding movement with a power reserve of 48 hours and a 22K gold off-centered micro-rotor. With the help of this, Patek Philippe was able to make the watch just 5.9mm thin. 

You can find the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse for $36,670.

9. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra Thin (ref. 16202ST.OO.1240ST.02)

Audemars Piguet completes the holy trinity alongside Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Unlike Patek, Audemars Piguet embraces the integrated sports watch trend and evolves the Royal Oak into an ultra-thin case.

The Royal Oak is probably one of the most iconic sports watches in existence with its iconic hexagonal-shaped bezel and integrated bracelet design. This particular Royal Oak is called the Jumbo and pays tribute to the original Royal Oak back in 1972 with its blue dial that they call “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” and “Petite Tapisserie”  for the waffle-patterned dial (a bit too fancy, don’t you think?).

Despite being called a Jumbo, it is actually not as “jumbo” as you think. It has a 39mm stainless steel case and a thickness of just 8.1mm that is made possible with the help of their in-house Calibre 7121 self-winding movement.

Even though this version of the Royal Oak comes with a retail price of around $35,000, its popularity has skyrocketed its price in the secondary market to close to $95,000.

10. Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic (ref. 102713)

Bulgari has just recently started to compete in the watch game, but boy, did they knock it out of the park with this one. As a jewelry brand, they focused more on fashionable watches and used third-party movements, but these days, they have really advanced into a proper watchmaker. 

The Octo Finissimo has a really Avangard sort of overall design with a hexagonal inner bezel design and an integrated bracelet look. The ash gray dial contrasting with the black 12 and 6 numerals make the watch really simple and legible. The dial also has an interesting small second hand positioned at 8, which is an unusual position. 

The star of the show is definitely the movement that pushes the boundaries of watchmaking. It combines beauty and technological advancement to achieve this new milestone in the world of horological complications. 

With a 5.15mm thick and 40mm titanium case (and bracelet), the watch wears like a dream. The Octo Finissimo Automatic achieves this by using a platinum micro-rotor that is automatic winding, and you can enjoy the beautiful movement from the caseback. 

This version of the Octo Finissimo retails for $15,900.

11. Breguet Classique Extra-Thin 5157 (ref. 5157BB/11/9V6)

Breguet is one of the oldest watch brands and has provided a lot to the history of horology. A few honorable mentions that they created the first tourbillon and one of the most memorable hands on the dial, also called Breguet hands.

Today, they have maintained the overall dial designs of the extinct pocket watches and implemented them into modern case designs and movements. The Breguet Classique Extra-Thin 5157 is no exception.

The iconic blue Breguet hands, the silver guilloche dial, and Roman numerals are all part of Breguet’s DNA. Making it even more luxurious is the 38mm rose gold case and an impressive 5.4mm thin. 

Despite the traditional and vintage looks, powering the watch is their immaculately finished in-house self-winding movement that you can admire on the open case back and with a power reserve of 45 hours.  

The watch can be yours for $19,800.

12. A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin (ref. 205.086)

Another German brand on this list is A. Lange & Söhne, and they are quickly rising to become one of the best-finished watches in the world. They were once close to being bankrupt, but thankfully, in 1990, Walter Lange (great-grandchild of the founder of the company) decided to re-establish the company and re-registered A. Lange & Söhne.

The Saxonia Thin has one of the simplest looks with just simple hour and minute hands and stick markers. But the dial. Boy, oh boy, let me tell you that it is a treat to your eyes. The dial looks exactly like the millions of stars from the night sky and is meticulously hand-drawn on the dial with each single star. 

Just as beautiful and impressive as the dial is the finishing of the manual winding movement that is displayed on the open case back of the watch. The Saxonia Thin has a 39mm white gold case and is just 6.2mm thick, and it perfectly contrasts with the deep dark blue of the dial. 

The Saxonia Thin comes with an approximate retail price of $29,000.

13. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Squelette (ref. Q13435SQ)

JLC is well known for being the watchmaker’s watchmaker, and for very good reason; until this day, they still live up to the name. My personal favorite piece of history from JLC is that they are a huge part of the reason that made the Royal Oak and Nautilus so popular today. 

They were trying to create an integrated bracelet design sports watch with a thin and comfortable case, but they were incapable of doing so at that time. JLC, being the watchmaker’s watchmaker, came in to create an ultra-thin movement for them to make it possible. Impressive.

What’s more impressive is the Ultra Thin Squelette’s thickness of just 3.6mm thick. Back in 2015, they were the thinnest mechanical watch, and it still is one of the thinnest today. What’s crazier is the calibre 849, which is used in the Squelette, was often used in the world’s thinnest watches back in 1975. Very impressive.

The Squelette really shows off the engineering marvel of the calibre 849, with the watch having a skeletonized dial. And they definitely should show it off. Encasing the movement is a 38mm white gold case that makes it even dressier and elegant, and hiding it under the cuff couldn’t be any easier. 

14. Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept (ref. G0A45502)

As the name suggests, it was never really made to be an actual production watch because the watch is absurdly thin – just 2mm, which is thinner than 90% of most watch movements. One of the biggest challenges to make it possible is to make the watch stay flat, as when the watch is strapped on the wrist, the watch will tend to bend. This was back in 2018.

Fast forward to 2020, voila. Nothing is impossible. Piaget actually made it happen and made it a production watch, and more impressively, it is customizable. You can actually change the color of the subdial, the movement plate, the hands, and the strap. This makes it super unique as it is close to impossible that you bump into someone wearing this watch, let alone the exact same configuration. 

The watch also offers a skeletonized dial but has the looks straight out of an exposed robot, with gears and wheels fully exposed on the dial. It’s definitely an Avangard look. To combat the problem of the rigidity of ultra-thin watches, a high-tech cobalt alloy is used for the 41mm watch case.

The hand winding movement 900P-UC is fused with the case to make the watch possible. The watch came with an approximate retail price of $450,000. Unsurprisingly, this was the thinnest watch in the world in 2020 but has recently just been beaten by the next brand on this list. 

15. Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari

2 years after Piaget released the thinnest watch, someone just had to break the record for being the thinnest watch, and who else but Richard Mille can break this unbelievable record? With the insane innovation and determination that Richard Mille’s team has, they have created the RM UP-01 Ferrari watch with a thickness of just 1.75mm. 

The watch design is unlike anything we’ve seen before. It looks straight out of the future. It has a rectangular titanium case, a Ferrari logo, a power reserve indicator, and an exposed movement. This watch really packed both technical prowess and aesthetics, and I think Richard Mille really knocked it out of the park with this one. 

However, with something like this, the price tag can definitely make your wallet as thin as your watch. It is limited to 150 pieces and is worth $1,888,000. 

Conclusion

Watchmakers have spent years and maybe decades researching and creating ultra-thin watches for enthusiasts to enjoy an elegantly understated but also luxurious timepiece for us to enjoy. 

With the recent technological developments, watchmakers can use this to their advantage to further improve on creating the thinnest watch. People often take ultra-thin watches for granted and I certainly hope that people understand watches like these are incredibly difficult to come by from this article. 

It’s great to see watchmakers pushing the boundaries and limits of watchmaking, and we, as watch enthusiasts, will always appreciate it. More competition leads to more innovation, and that leads to cooler watches being made for us! 

Rubber? No, too casual and looks cheap. Stainless steel? Maybe, but it seems that every watch out there is made of this metal. Silver? Feels great but just has no significant difference in terms of looks with stainless steel. Bronze? Looks cool initially but quickly gets old and “rusty”. But gold? YES PLEASE. 

Do you want something that shows personality but yet stays elegant and classy? Gold. Do you want something that lasts you forever and that doesn’t ever corrode? Gold. Want to look like a badass like Tony Soprano or Michael Corleone? Gold watches are your answer. 

The attractiveness of the color gold is undeniable. When made well into a watch, it has the best combination of a luxury jewelry look and a time-telling tool that we all know and love. Not only does it exert an aura of confidence to the wearer, but the longevity and value of a gold watch also allow this confidence to be passed down to generations. In this article, we’ll list the 20 best solid gold watches you can buy.

Why Are Solid Gold Watches Cool and Why You Should Buy One

The first ever solid gold wristwatch was made by Girard-Perregaux in La Chaux-de-Fonds, a city in Switzerland. It was believed that the watch was made for the German Emperor William I in 1879 as he wanted to commission them for Naval officers. 

The material gold was used as it is corrosion-resistant, particularly useful for Naval officers to do their duty guarding the sea. It might look a little extravagant for officers and soldiers, but at that time, stainless steel was not discovered, and thus, gold was the most suitable material despite looking a little out of place. 

Fast forward to the current generation, gold watches are worn to show luxury, elegance, and status. It can be worn with a suit to show class and elegance, enhancing your individuality; it can also be worn casually, paired with a collar T-shirt and jeans to provide a sophisticated yet vintage look. 

Gold watches are also often featured in famous Hollywood movies, particularly Mafia movies such as Scarface, Godfather, and The Sopranos. When you see Al Pacino wearing a black suit with a gold watch, the watch really stands out, perfectly showing off his personality as a badass Mafia.

There are often misconceptions about gold watches as there are several different types, such as gold-plated, PVD-treated, or blended gold (also known as two-tone). In this article, we focus solely on solid gold watches – which means they’re fully constructed with gold, inside out. 

There are also different types of gold used, such as yellow, white, pink, and red gold. Some manufacturers go a step further and mix gold with another alloy to improve its properties while maintaining the looks, such as the Everose gold and the Sedna gold. 

Gold being gold, never loses value because it is a precious material often sought after. Thus, despite being a time-telling piece, a gold watch’s value, durability, and fashionable aspect is truly timeless. 

The Best Soild Gold Watches

1. Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 (ref. 4200H/222J-B935)

First released in 1977, the Vacheron Constantin 222 was to commemorate their 222nd anniversary as a company. The watch came in stainless steel and gold with an integrated bracelet, released to compete with the ever-so-famous Patek Philipe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. March 2022 marks the return of the iconic 222, arguably one of the best releases in Watches and Wonders 2022. 

The new 222, in yellow gold, carries over a lot of the original design, including the very cool hexagonal central links, integrated bracelet, Pd150 white gold Maltese cross placed at 5 o’clock of the case, and a few tweaks to its movement. 

The new movement is their in-house caliber 2455/2 and has a power reserve of 40 hours. With a 37mm diameter case size and 7.95mm thickness, it definitely retains its vintage size and design while implementing contemporary touches by improving the comfort of the bracelet, making all of us feel like the Vacheron Constantin 222 has never really left our side. 

Price: $109,000

2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 50th Anniversary Rose Gold (ref. 16202OR.OO.1240OR.01)

The Royal Oak is probably one of the most sought sports watches in the world and for good reason. It was first released in 1972, designed by the very talented Gerald Genta (who is like the Picasso of designing watches). 

With the introduction of the integrated bracelet and the iconic hexagonal case in stainless steel, Genta essentially changed the watch industry forever. At that time, the Royal Oak was one of the first few watches to introduce a stainless steel watch commanding luxury prices. But today, clearly, everyone is on the same wavelength with this outrageous (at that time) idea. 

The Royal Oak 50th Anniversary was released in 2022. It maintains much of its original design, but with the material rose gold and a smoked slate gray dial, you get a sporty and elegant look on your wrist with excellent contrast. Housing the new in-house caliber 7121 with a power reserve of 50 hours is a familiar hexagonal-shaped 39mm case and a thickness of 8.1mm, making it fit onto many wrists comfortably. 

Price: €72,500

3. Patek Philippe Nautilus (ref. 5811/1G)

Arguably the most wanted, most sought after, most hyped watch in the world is the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711. The name and design of the Nautilus were inspired by a novel called “Twenty Thousand Leagues Under The Sea”. From the octagonal yet square-looking case resembling a submarine’s glass window and its deep ocean-blue dial, we can see where the design was inspired.

Patek Philippe did not stop the legacy and introduced the 5811/1G in 2022. It stays true to the identity and design of the 5711 while improving on it with white gold, making the timepiece exude elegance and sophistication. 

The 5811/1G also comes in the 41mm classic submarine-window case that seamlessly blends in with the beautifully designed integrated bracelet, along with the same iconic and instantly recognizable horizontally embossed deep blue dial. Powering the 5811/1G is their self-winding caliber 26-330 SC with 45 hours of power reserve, ensuring accurate and reliable time-keeping.

With its exceptional craftsmanship, luxurious materials, and iconic design, the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5811/1G represents a fusion of tradition and innovation, making every avid watch collector drool. 

Price: €69,200

4. Rolex Daytona Yellow Gold Green Dial (ref. 116508)

Remember when I mentioned the word ‘arguably’ in the previous section? Well, that’s because of this watch. The Daytona. The watch that created hype, the watch that everyone wants, the watch that created the controversial phenomenon of the ‘waiting list’. 

The ref.116508 has all the Daytona features that we all know and love: the iconic tachymeter bezel that gives a flare of sportiness, the mickey-mouse looking subdials (I know most people associate it with panda but not me), and the screwed pushers. What makes the ref.116508 stand out from other Daytonas is its vibrant green dial paired with a 40mm solid 18k yellow gold case, creating a visually-striking but not obnoxious aesthetic to the watch.

Equipped with their in-house caliber 4130 with a respectable power reserve of 72 hours, it is more reliable than ever, ensuring accurate timekeeping, along with a useful chronograph function for the wearer to time their favorite coffee-brewing activity (or time anything you want).

Thanks to its complicated movement, amazing wearability, and stunning looks, this watch truly represents Rolex’s excellence and commitment to horology. However, with great innovative and beautifully designed watches comes great sacrifices in the watch community. Let’s just say that if you can get one at the original price, consider yourself the luckiest person on earth.

Price: €38,600

5. A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumens” (ref. 142.055)

A. Lange & Söhne is a brand that often flies under the radar of many watch collectors just because it is not made in the fairytale land of watch-making — Switzerland. It was founded in Germany back in 1845, and focused on making remarkable and elegant dressy timepieces with impeccable craftsmanship.

The “Lumens” is made in their proprietary gold called “Honeygold”. What a peculiar name for a gold material, but it is catchy, so it works! That said, the warm glow of the 41.9mm gold case paired with the sophisticated, semi-transparent dial showcasing its intricate mechanics and Arabic numerals is nothing I’ve seen before in other watches.

You could really spend the whole day staring at the dial and wait for the next minute (or hour if you have lots of time) to pass as you witness the minute indices move intricately.As you turn the watch to its back, the stunning in-house caliber L043.9 will leave you in awe, questioning every other movement that exists and putting them in their place.

It features a manual winding movement with a power reserve of 72 hours and is finished to the highest of standards that will no doubt cause watch collectors to be jealous, making it extremely desirable for those who appreciate craftsmanship and horology.

Price: €114,000

6. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar Pink Gold (ref. Q1302520)

All watches tell you the time, most of them tell you the date, and some tell you the day, but very few watches tell you the day, date, month, year, moon phase, and even accounting for leap years, with an adjustment required only once every 100 years! This feature is also known as a Perpetual Calendar.

Jaeger-LeCoultre is nicknamed ‘the watchmaker’s watchmaker’ and for a very good reason. Other than providing movements for goliath watch brands such as those mentioned above (Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe), the movement in this watch is incredibly complicated to make, let alone make it ultra-thin, just as the name suggests.

Encasing the caliber 868 with a power reserve of 38 hours is a beautiful 39mm 18K pink gold case that is only 9.2mm thick. To put this into context, most traditional watches are around 10mm thick, and the only feature most of them have is telling the time and date. Jaeger-LeCoultre can make a complicated perpetual calendar movement and fit into such a slim case, making it 100 times more impressive. 

With its slim case and a subtly textured cream-white dial, along with pink gold indices and dauphine hands, this makes the perfect tuxedo-paired watch.

Price: $37,700

7. Cartier Tank Louis (ref. WGTA0011)

Sure, Cartier isn’t well known for its watchmaking and mostly for their jewelry, but we cannot take away the credit they deserve for creating one of the most iconic watch cases and dials in all watches. 

The dimensions of this watch are an unorthodox 33.7 mm x 25.5mm, 6.6mm thick because of its rectangular shape. However, this watch would fit perfectly on the wrist with a really thin rose gold case that really says class and elegance. 

The modern Cartier Tank Louis stays loyal to its predecessors by featuring a silver opaline dial along with vintage-looking Roman numerals as their indices. This is then paired with subtle yet classy blued steel hands and a railroad track minute scale, creating a timeless and iconic design. 

Featuring the movement is their Cartier caliber 1917 MC, which is a hand-wound movement and has a power reserve of 38 hours, adding more vintage touches to the watch but with contemporary specifications. 

With its slim and elegant, timeless design, you could easily share this watch with your partner. If you want to snag yourself a bargain, this is it, one watch for two! 

Price: €13,300

8. Girard-Perregaux Laureato Pink Gold (ref. 81010-52-3118-1CM)

Girard-Perregaux has slowly risen in the past few years thanks to their focus on creating more sporty aesthetic watches. The new GP Laureato is no different and is their take on luxury watches with an integrated bracelet. 

The watch comes in a 42mm solid pink gold case and an integrated bracelet with two different kinds of finishing, beautifully executed — satin and polished. 

The main star of the show is the handcrafted black onyx dial that requires the expertise of highly skilled craftsmen, and to complement the dial are the pink gold indices, baton hands, and their GP logo. To complete the package, the iconic octagonal bezel really adds a distinctive flair to the watch design, making it extra sporty but also elegant with the use of gold. 

Powering the Laureato is the caliber GP01800 with a power reserve of 54 hours, entirely in-house with meticulous finishes and a pink gold oscillating weight that you can appreciate at the back of the watch. 

The Girard-Perregaux Laureato combines sportiness in its design, elegance with the use of gold and a stunning black onyx dial. It certainly succeeded in creating a contemporary luxury sports watch that can easily be dressed down or up. 

Price: CHF 51,800

9. Chopard Alpine Eagle Yellow Gold (ref. 295363-0001)

The Chopard Alpine Eagle is Chopard’s re-celebration of its iconic St. Moritz watch and its take on luxury sports watches commemorating the magnificent nature. 

The Alpine Eagle features a 41mm round 18k yellow gold case, accompanied by the inclusion of screws on the bezel to give it a more athletic look. Tapering down the case is the popular integrated bracelet, also in solid yellow gold. 

To finesse its sporty-chic aesthetic with a touch of nature, the Alpine Eagle’s dial resembles the radial, irregular texture of an eagle’s iris, and the counterweight of its second hand resembles an eagle’s feather. Its crown is also worth mentioning, as it is engraved with a compass rose, where Chopard has endowed it with a meaning that symbolizes contemporary eagles navigating their destiny and an invitation to nature exploration.

Inside the watch is the caliber 01.01-C, which has a self-winding mechanical movement that is COSC certified, proving that it is reliable and functional with a respectable 60 hours of power reserve.

Most gold watches combine gold with other colors, but not this watch. This goes all in on gold. That includes the dial, the screws, the bezel, the case, and some parts of the indices. If you want a reliable, sporty watch that really makes a statement and holds deep value, this is the watch to go to. 

Price: $55,800

10. Piaget Polo Date Rose Gold (ref. G0A47010)

The Piaget Polo has been the staple of their collection as of late in representing their popular category of luxury sports watches. Most sports watches tend to go for an integrated bracelet, but not the Piaget Polo Date Rose Gold, which has a green leather strap, giving it an elegant and dressier look. 

The rose gold cushion case with a green guilloché, horizontal grooves, and dial adds even more to the level of elegance. The 42mm case size might be big for some, but with a thickness of 9.4mm, it still wears well under the cuff. However, don’t let that dressy look fool you. While it looks dressy, you can still take it to a water polo game easily with a water resistance of 100 meters (although look out for its leather strap).

Additionally, you can also enjoy looking at its in-house 1110P automatic movement with a power reserve of 50 hours from the open case back of this watch, along with the engraved Piaget coat of arms on the oscillating weight.

Its rose gold construction paired with the green leather strap and the dial is a joy to look at, with both colors complimenting each other, making this an easy watch to recommend for everyone who loves green. 

Price: $47,300

11. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro Rotor Rose Gold (ref. PFC914-2020001-200182)

The Tonda PF is part of Parmigiani Fleurier’s Tonda collection and is perhaps the flagship collection of the brand, oozing elegance, class, and also sportiness. This particular model is no exception, featuring a 40mm rose gold case and integrated bracelet that adds a touch of warmth and luxury to the watch.

Zooming into its uncluttered warm gray, matte guiiloché dial is an exceptional ‘grain d’orge’ finish (which means ‘grain of barley’ in French), showing a drastic contrast from the rose gold that allows the dial to really pop. Their new PF703 movement that comes with a 48-hour power reserve and 100m water resistance is revolutionary with a thickness of just 3mm (case thickness of 7.8mm), achieved with the use of a full platinum micro-rotor (hence the name).

Parmigiani Fleurier brilliantly integrated the diminutive and brilliantly finished oscillating weight into the movement instead of lying on top of it like other brands. Thanks to its minimalist dial and ultra-thin case, the 18K rose gold skeletonized delta-shaped hands really complete the watch, creating a stylish yet exquisite look perfect for many occasions. 

Price: $56,800

12. Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonshine Gold (ref. 310.60.42.50.99.002)

The Speedmaster marks a monumental achievement for mankind, being the first watch on the moon in 1969. From then, Speedmaster earned its profound nickname of the “Moonwatch”, an iconic timepiece that will always resonate with NASA’s Apollo mission for being chosen to wear to the moon. 

The new Speedmaster features a 42mm 18K gold case and bracelet. But not just any gold. Omega calls it the “Moonshine™ Gold”. Inspired by the shining moonlight, Moonshine™ Gold is slightly paler than traditional yellow gold, giving it a more subtle and serene look. 

Besides the different hue, this gold alloy also has a higher resistance to fading in color and luster over time, making this watch more durable. To contrast with the Moonshine™ Gold is the black subdials, indices, and ceramic bezel that give the watch a really sporty but not in-your-face look.

Powering the Speedmaster is the highly dependable, manual winding Co-Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 3861 with 50 hours of power reserve. Flip over the watch, and you will lust at the beautiful movement shown on the open case back of the Speedmaster. Oh, and Omega obviously has engraved this Speedmaster with “THE FIRST WATCH WORN ON THE MOON”, just in case you forget.

Price: $41,400

13. Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW252

“Roses are red, violets are blue; there is always an Asian, better than you.” Grand Seiko represents this meme phrase perfectly, as it is the only brand that is founded in Japan on this list and is definitely comparable with other Swiss watches.

The SBGW252 is a recreation of the first-ever Grand Seiko launched back in 1960 and has successfully stayed faithful to the model that inspired it aesthetically. Like its elder brother, the dial features a classic, vintage design – emphasized with a cream-white dial, simple-looking indices, and dauphine hands. And to accentuate the ‘Elegance’, is the unique and elegant lettering of the Grand Seiko logo at 12. 

Encapsulating this lovely dial is a 38mm 18K yellow gold case with 10.7mm thickness, which perfectly captures the spirit and design of the 1960 version of Grand Seiko. What really takes this to another level is the finishing of the watch — razor-sharp edges on the hands, flawless polishing on the case, and I could go on and on. 

What’s not so vintage is the advanced in-house manual winding movement 9S64 with a 3-day power reserve, strong antimagnetic properties, and is regulated to a highly accurate of -3 to +5 seconds a day. 

A timeless design with impeccable finishing, innovative in-house movements that are reliable and accurate, and a reasonable price are what make Grand Seiko truly grand.

Price: $17,200

14. Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph King Gold (ref. 541.OX.1181.RX)

As the infamous Nico Leonard spread his hate for Hublot around the globe, we tend to misunderstand Hublot as this company that only makes large, ostentatious watches with unusual materials and basic movements. This is not the case for the Classic Fusion Chronograph King Gold. 

The watch comes in a proprietary 42mm King Gold case (a fusion of several precious metals), adding a warmer shade than the traditional 18K gold. Additionally, a very un-Hublot-like move is the elegant, simple-looking deep black dial, featuring two subdials and simple indices, making it very uncharacteristic of Hublot, who often have skeletonized dials.

Completing the look is the use of a black rubber strap, nicely contrasting with the color gold, giving it a sportier look. Powering the watch is the HUB1153 Self-winding Chronograph Movement, which has a power reserve of 42 hours. Perhaps something that is worth noting and contrasting its sporty look is its water resistance of just 50m, a very un-sporty amount if you ask me. 

Hublot’s take on contemporary sport watches to make them look elegant with the use of precious metals is very respectable, and if you are someone who likes wearing rubber straps yet wants to maintain a refined look, this might be it. 

Price: $28,300

15. Breguet Tradition (ref. 7097BB/G1/9WU)

Perhaps the most under-the-radar watch in this list is the Breguet Tradition. Unlike the use of yellow gold or rose gold in other watches, this watch uses white gold to create a more subdued and toned-down look. What’s not toned down is the dial, showcasing 70% of the contraption-looking movement, a traditional-looking dial with Roman numerals, and blued cathedral hands. 

The dial that tells time is, in fact, smaller than usual, stationed at the top part of the dial. The other part reminds me of the organs of a clock tower, consisting of a bunch of gears and levers working simultaneously together.

Under the 40mm white gold case is Breguet’s caliber 505 SR1, featuring an automatic movement with 50 hours of power reserve plus a retrograde seconds hand. However, with this watch being an ultra dressy-looking piece, it only features 30m of water resistance, but not to worry because you won’t likely swim with your tuxedo on. 

Price: $35,400

16. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Sedna Gold (ref. 5000-36S40-O52A)

Blancpain was founded in 1735, making it the oldest watch brand in the world. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was also the first dive watch, and since then, it has branched out into several different styles of watches, such as the Bathyscaphe. 

The Bathyscaphe takes a lot of the features of a dive watch, including a rotatable diving bezel, a large case for legibility, and a whopping 300 meters of water resistance. The rework of its dial is what sets it apart from other dive watches, with a sleeker design with simple indices, a stunning sunburst dark blue dial, and rose gold accents on the bezel, hands, and indices. 

The rose gold is made with Swatch Group’s (Blancpain is part of the Swatch Group) proprietary gold called Sedna Gold, which is used on the 43mm case, color-matching the indices, hands, and bezel. 

Powering the dive watch is their in-house caliber 1315, an automatic movement with an insane 120 hours (5 days) of power reserve, so you don’t have to do your daily chore of winding your watch. Through the open case back, the beautifully finished caliber 1315 can be seen, especially with the oscillating weight engraved with the Blancpain logo, which is also made in Sedna Gold.

Price: $26,300

17. Breitling Chronomat 36 Red Gold (ref. R10380101A1R1)

Breitling is a brand that has a rich history, particularly with technical aviation (the Navitimer) and racing (the Top Time). However, they often have a gap in their collection, lacking smaller-sized watches with simple-looking dials watches. Thankfully, Breitling rebooted their Chronomat collection in 2020 and definitely filled the missing puzzle.

This Chronomat has a vintage-inspired look – featuring a paper-white dial with simple indices and baton hands in red gold and a date window at 6. Adding more luxury and elegance to the watch is the use of 18K red gold found on the 36mm case, bezel, and bracelet.

The Chronomat achieves an iconic look through its distinctive “Rouleaux” bracelet, which resembles a string of machine gun bullets sitting comfortably on your wrist, and a robust bezel that enhances its sporty character. 

Their movement is the Breitling 10, a COSC-certified chronometer with 42 hours of power reserve and a self-winding mechanical movement that brings back the vintage touch.

Breitling really proved me wrong this time: they are not just about chunky, sporty-looking watches and are more than capable of making a stylish yet elegant watch with the introduction of the new Chronomat 36. I’m definitely glad to be proven wrong on this occasion.

Price: $27,500

18. Tudor Black Bay 58 18K Gold (ref. M79018V-0001)

Tudor being Rolex’s sister brand for many years (since 1926), has really kept them in the shadows. But not until 2012 when Tudor released the Black Bay model that took the world by storm and put most Swiss watches at bay. Inspired by the original Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner ref.7922, the Black Bay took a lot of the vintage designs of the 7922 and added their own touches to it. 

The Black Bay 58 was then introduced in 2018, shrinking the case size from 41mm to a more compact 39mm, adding more retro aesthetics and sizing. Using 18K yellow gold on the case and the iconic “snowflake” hand and indices, contrasting it with the olive-green dial and bezel, and pairing it with a dark brown alligator leather strap, just makes the watch shouts RETRO and CLASS. 

Surprisingly, unlike other Black Bay 58 models (except the 925 Silver model), it features an open case back, showcasing the caliber MT5400 movement, a respectable COSC-certified self-winding mechanical movement with 70 hours of power reserve and 200 meters of water resistance. 

It’s fair to say that if Hans Wilsdorf (founder of Rolex) was alive today to witness Tudor’s success, he would be very proud, like an elder brother seeing his little sister graduate from university kind of moment. 

Price: $17,400

19. Panerai Luminor Due TuttoOro (ref. PAM01182)

Typically creating sports watches and dive watches, the Italian-made Panerai is well known for its rugged, huge cases with excellent legibility and specifications, perfect for the Italian Royal Navy to wear on their missions. Today in a more peaceful era, Panerai decided to branch out and move forward to creating more elegant pieces such as the Luminor Due TuttoOro.

For the first time in a long time, the Due TuttoOro comes in a tiny (for Panerai’s standard) 38mm Goldtech case. The Goldtech is used on the case, with unmissable crown guards, hands, and bracelet, featuring a slightly red tone, giving it a deeper and richer look. Aligned with Panerai’s typical fashion, the blue sun-brushed dial has huge Arabic 12 and 6 numeral indices with fascinating lume, a small seconds hand at 9, and a date at 3, staying true to Panerai’s iconic dial design. 

Powering the watch is the automatic mechanical movement P.900 caliber with a power reserve of 3 days and a water resistance of just 30m, which is considered atypical from Panerai. However, with this piece being a much dressier-looking timepiece, the Luminor Due TuttoOro definitely suits someone going out for a nice dinner rather than doing military work.

Price: $37,200

20. Accutron Spaceview Electrostatic Watch 18K Gold (ref. 2ES7A001) 

Do you think that watches in this list are too predictable and not shouting any personality enough? Have a look at this watch. The dial started simple — luminous indices and hands (gilt hour and minute hands and a red seconds hand, also luminous).

But why would Accutron release a watch to commemorate its 60th anniversary of watch-world-changing technology stop there? Similar to other Accutron watches, the rest of this dial is left open to showcase the crazy-looking movement of the Spaceview.

To properly fit the movement is a 43.5mm 18K gold case that will be individually numbered to kindly remind you that you are one of the exclusive and lucky 60 individuals in the Accutron Spaceview gang. The new Spaceview recalls the original Spaceview from 1960, exposing the cyberpunk back to the future, aircraft engine-looking movement. Its movement is truly one of a kind.

Simply put, it uses electrostatic energy, and with the help of human motion, it can power the movement for at least 2 years and, most importantly, see the satisfying seconds hand sweep fluidly. An unorthodox design with an extremely innovative movement on your wrist is the perfect conversation starter, but if you are an introvert, you could simply just stare at this. 

Price: $19,600

Final Thoughts

Solid gold watches offer lots of advantages with their exceptional craftsmanship, representation of luxury and status, and high value. All of that captivates many watch enthusiasts and collectors. Whether it is to get a gold watch for its durability or value or looks or all together, there is never a bad option. 

Not really a gold watch kind of guy myself, mainly because of my bank account; compiling this list just changed my mind, and I might potentially get one myself in the, hopefully, near future. I certainly hope this list inspires you the same too.