Author: Nina S

I have long marveled at Grand Seiko watches. Since the brand seized the opportunity of independence, and indeed before that too, its designs always had the innate ability to catch the attention of collectors worldwide. Long may that continue. 

The Japanese brand, with roots firmly anchored in Iwate soil, has never taken its foot off the gas, whether in the form of new movements, dial patterns, or designs inspired by all things whimsical, wild, and wonderful. 

One watch that deserves some serious consideration (if you’re looking for a solid, classic, and reliable daily beater) is the Grand Seiko SBGN023. Bear with me while I purify my thoughts a little further…

An Overview of the Grand Seiko SGBN023

The Grand Seiko SGN023 belongs to the company’s Sport Collection and forms part of its rich and expansive tapestry of horological creations. Here, like with all other Grand Seiko watch families, philosophical craftsmanship is woven into the cultural fabric of the collection, with designs that honor “The Nature of Time” through its concept of “Takumi”. 

The Sport collection is home to models powered by the legendary Spring Drive revelation, chronographs, and, of course, GMT complications. The SBGN023 falls into the latter category – a complication primed for those who like to travel frequently but also those who just love the style and functionality of the feature.

Some of the model’s key features include an 18k gold lion logo, emblazoned onto the back of the case, a distinctive arrow-tipped GMT hand in yellowy-gold for tracking an additional time zone, and a thermocompensated quartz movement for unparalleled accuracy. 

Stick with me as I attempt to delve into these features in more detail. I’ll also share my thoughts on how this watch will wear, how it keeps time, and how it imbues classic style when worn.

140 Years of Seiko History

Even relatively young brands will try to play into the “history” element of their timepieces. Can you blame them? History sells. Stories, indeed, sell. They give meaning to a timepiece and provide the basis for an interesting conversation starter (it certainly beats entertaining small talk). 

Even if a brand only dates back a few years, it will always try to sell a watch with a bit of a story. Where Grand Seiko is concerned, however, history really does mean just that. It has 140 years of the stuff, having been conceptualized at Suwa Seikosha, home of the world-famous Seiko. Its first watch arrived in 1961, but Seiko’s rich legacy reaches back much further than that.

You see, the founder of Seiko, Kintarō Hattori, had been holding onto one singular vision. To develop something more refined and more exquisite than the affordable, well-built designs that Seiko became so renowned for. As good as they were, Hattori wanted more. He believed that one day, his future Grand Seiko concept would epitomize Japanese craftsmanship. And, so it did.

Let’s turn the calendar pages back to the year of 1960. It was a decade of innovation, liberation, and a time when people were obsessed with precision. The first Grand Seiko didn’t just mark the release of a new watch, it was a manifestation of a long-nurtured dream. It marked the beginning of a very transformative era in watchmaking. 

For brands like itself, it was an era of horological advancements and an opportunity for Grand Seiko to prove to the world what it could bring to the table, both in terms of refined precision and technical prowess. Thus, 140 years on from the founding of Seiko, watches like the SBGN023 are still paying homage to these very foundations. 

The limited-edition watch, exclusive to 2,021 pieces, nods to the year of its release (2021) and embodies, in the purest of ways, Hattori’s motto; “Always one step ahead of the rest”.

The Case

Allow me to quickly shun the notion that only the Germans and the Swiss can manufacture timepieces to first-class standards. It is simply not the case. While Seiko may manufacture some very accessible quartz watches (which offer a lot of bang for your buck!), Grand Seiko crafts superlative designs that often only elicit praise from those who understand the company and its origins.

Grand Seiko has gained unequivocal respect from those of a non-judgemental standpoint. Those who don’t confuse the two brands as being the same thing. The reality is that Grand Seiko has worked hard to stand tall on its own and has proudly stepped out of the shadow of its much larger sibling quite some years ago. 

The two should not be confused – not because either one is superior to the other. Moreover, they both compete in totally different leagues. Credit, therefore, should be given to both respective brands, regardless of how they compare to one another.

On that point, it is remarkably easy to identify the SBGN023 as a Grand Seiko watch, just from the look of the case alone. In previous reviews, I have gone into great depth on the signature Zaratsu polish that Grand Seiko artisans apply to the brand’s designs. 

Where watches from the Sport Collection are concerned, Zaratsu favors the angular architecture of the case, coaxing out the hairline finishes and sharp, ridge-like lines that form its prominent sporty nature. The interplay between light and shadow is always what has me gazing into the perfect contours of a Grand Seiko case for hours.

Flip the case over, and more details reveal themselves. The 18k gold lion emblem is one of my favorite features of the Sport Collection, and there it is, in all its glory, concealing yet another horological feat by way of the thermocompensated quartz movement. 

The movement sits behind a caseback equipped with 200-meter water resistance, keeping perfect time within an anti-magnetic construction. The case also features a 4 o’clock GS-engraved screw-down to avoid snagging and a fixed bezel adorned with legible Arabic numerals in a glossy ceramic inlay for keeping track of an additional time zone.

The Dial

There are several elements that I really like about the dial of this GS watch. Radiating out from the center of the dial is a subtly ribbed pattern, reaching right out to the periphery. What makes this feature particularly special is that you don’t always see it. 

Should you catch the dial under the right angle of light, the SBGN023 rewards you with a sunburst-like effect, which illuminates pockets of the display that you don’t always get to appreciate. I guess what really resonates with me is the idea that the design keeps on giving, even after that initial “honeymoon” period.

The use of yellow-gold accents on the dial is also really clever because (and here’s something else that may surprise you) the surface they sit on isn’t black. It’s a really rich brown shade that, once again, can trick you into thinking you’re looking at something that you’re not. Seldom have I seen brown and yellow-gold nuances used in this way in a watch before, and I’m here for it.

The golden yellow tones continue with the familiar GS logo at 12 o’clock and in the daytime hours of the GMT watch’s 24-hour rehaut. The remainder of the 24-hour track is dark to signify the nighttime hours. Having spent many, many years discussing watch features with connoisseurs, I have come to realize that a dislike of the 4:30 date is a very common theme. 

In this design, GS chooses the 4 o’clock location for its date aperture. It’s a decision that I feel works pretty well, but I can also appreciate that a sense of balance is lost when a manufacturer does this. A nice addition (since many GS watches don’t feature it) is the well-lumed hour markers and hands that guide the way to clear, legible timekeeping in the dark.

The Movement

Let’s be real for a second: quartz snobbery is never going to go away. Many connoisseurs feel that a mechanical is simply more authentic than a quartz, but there are bad quartz movements and good, and Grand Seiko certainly sits in the latter field. 

In many cases, deciding between a mechanical and a quartz is not all that tough a task. No one should feel it’s about proving how much you know about horology, but mechanical movements do tend to be the favored one of the two. 

But the thermocompensated quartz sitting inside this watch is certainly worth a mention here because even though quartz, in general, offers better accuracy than a mechanical movement, this type of quartz is even more superior to the standard type. With an accuracy of – /+ 10 seconds per year, the Grand Seiko SBGN023 is likely the most accurate thing you’ll have in your collection. 

If you’re not familiar with thermocompensated quartz movements, they work in a very similar way to standard quartz movements. Still, there are a few key differences that make the performance and accuracy of the thermocompensated variety more reliable and superior.

Piezoelectric energy is what keeps a watch running, and the vibration of the quartz crystal is what keeps a watch so accurate (more accurate than a mechanical movement). A quartz crystal vibrates a staggering total of 32,768 every second of the day. The electronics of the quartz movement unlock the power generated by the quartz crystal in the same way that an escape lever does in a mechanical watch.

Now, thermocompensated cuts appear on some quartz crystals, which reduce temperature fluctuations that could otherwise affect how the quartz operates inside the watch. Quartz movements tend to have tuning fork-shaped cuts in the crystal, which, over the years, has worked well to carry the tradition of quartz watchmaking through to present-day wristwatches. 

However, thermocompensated quartz movements take more precision to cut, and they maintain a nice equilibrium inside the watch, regulating and maintaining a harmonious performance deep at the heart of the movement.

What this achieves is a situation where thermodynamic pressure is regulated, and the electric signals inside the watch generally don’t fall victim to the negative effect that external conditions and changing environmental temperatures could otherwise have on them. 

While Japanese brands like Citizen, Seiko, and Grand Seiko are the heavy hitters in the field of thermocompensated quartz watches, we’re gradually seeing more companies expand their offerings within this category. For some brands, this type of quartz movement is their way of competing on the same level as high-end mechanical movement manufacturers do. 

The 9F Quartz series is one of the most refined and supreme of all the Grand Seiko quartz movements. Within this movement family is the Calibre 9F86, which debuted in 2018, offering a GMT function. The distinctive and graceful presence of the smoothly operating second hand is one key giveaway of the movement. It is perfectly controlled thanks to the movement’s backlash auto-adjust mechanism. 

This works like a hairspring, resisting the second hand’s counterbalance, offering stabilization as it ticks. Without a shudder or even a jolt, this hand travels across the dial of the SBGN023 effortlessly, day and night, without relying on the movement of your wrist or requiring manual winding. 

The mechanical movement has a high torque and uses little energy despite its impressive accuracy. Its Twin Pulse Control Motor propels the heavy hands around the dial with ease, making for a particularly pleasing visual experience.

The Strap

Grand Seiko fits the SBNG023 watch on a tapering 20mm Oyster-like bracelet crafted from stainless steel. I mention this because a slight tapering can, in fact, enable a watch to appear and feel smaller on the wrist. 

This is a good thing if your wrists tend to measure on the small side. Generally speaking, a wrist measuring a diameter of 6 inches or more can carry a 40mm watch without a problem, but straight bracelet designs certainly make a watch feel bigger and more masculine.

The 20mm stainless steel bracelet on this watch tapers down to a nice 18mm diameter at the clasp end, where it meets with a GS-engraved clasp executed in a mix of brushed and polished finishes. 

If you tend to remove your watch for various tasks throughout the day, you’ll appreciate how easy the clasp is to manipulate under the fingertips. The twin trigger is functional and practical, but unfortunately, this watch has no micro-adjustment mechanism. Perhaps if there was one thing to change about the SBGN023, this would be it.

On the upside, you do get half links for accurate sizing, which are afforded by slot screws on either side of the bracelet. So, if you do need to get this bracelet altered, you’re guaranteed to get a snug fit. 

The overall execution of the bracelet, including the brushed and polished links, is done to a high level, as one would expect of any Grand Seiko watch. The bracelet tolerance, craftsmanship, finishes, flexibility, and overall build quality are exceptional.

How It Wears

It’s important to note that Grand Seiko doesn’t make watches simply for them to be reduced to mere functional instruments. Wearing one of these Japanese watches is more a lifestyle choice rather than a practical necessity. The SGBN023 is no exception to this rule. It wears as you’d expect any Grand Seiko to wear: comfortably and ergonomically, but it’s also absolutely stylish.

This GMT watch has some heft to it. Its case is undeniably beefy when you compare it to those from, say, the Elegance Collection. But you have to remember that this is intended as a sports watch. The fact that it’s classic enough to wear on dressier occasions is just an added bonus. 

First and foremost, the watch is designed to face all testing conditions and external environments. You’ll notice that the lugs are truncated, and the case is more angular. The bracelet certainly adds some weight to the model, but you have options to switch that out for something more lightweight if you want to.

In terms of basic dimensions, the watch will still appeal to those with smaller-than-average wrists, and that’s because it has a case diameter of 40mm. Having said that, its lug-to-lug length measures 46.5mm, and its case depth measures 13.1mm, so it’s certainly not the slimmest of GS GMTs.

The Price

Now, it’s time to address the elephant in the room. When the SBGN023 was first unveiled, it disgruntled many collectors. The price tag seemed steep for a quartz watch. As I divulged earlier, however, this is not just any quartz movement. The Quartz 9F is a special variation, reflecting the highest deity of the quartz breed. For that, you would expect to pay a price on par with any mechanical watch. 

And when you weigh up the fact that it has a guaranteed accuracy of -/+ 10 seconds per year, the price of this watch doesn’t seem so far-fetched after all. The watch currently retails for $5,450 at authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces, which is more than reasonable in my humble opinion.

The Takeaway 

The Grand Seiko SBGN023 is a thing of beauty. Imbued with sportiness and coupled with a travel-friendly GMT function, you could want for nothing more than what this neat 40mm package offers. Inside the watch is not just any quartz movement but a thermocompensated one. 

Equipped with an innovative regulating switch, the movement can be adjusted and compensated if it ever operates too slow or too fast. It’s a superior level of quartz timekeeping that promises – /+ 10 seconds per year, giving it unbeatable accuracy and, more than likely, rivaling anything else you’ll ever have in your collection. Suffice it to say, the movement alone is an interesting proposition, owing to its collectability.

What appeals to me more than anything, however, is the bread and butter basics of every grand Seiko watch: a case that wears easily on the average-sized wrist, a profound level of case finishing for its price point, and a helping of color here and there.

Wherever Grand Seiko is concerned, there is never any doubt of originality. Indeed, no plagiarism here – the brand has worked hard to achieve an identity of its own, stepping away from the Seiko name and forging a reputation that speaks of quality craftsmanship and high-end finishes. Moreover, the crisp dial of the SBGN023 is eminently legible, with details that coalesce with one another tastefully. 

This is a watch that I feel reigns supreme for its classic beauty and timeless case shape. For me – zero questions asked on why any collector would opt for this quartz GS watch over any mechanical one. The SBGN023 is easy on the eye, super accurate, and comfortable enough to do travel, sport, and life with.

In this comprehensive guide to watch movements, we’ll discuss the key mechanisms used in accurate timekeeping and compare them in detail.

Navigating the world of watches is not just as simple as choosing a design you like the look of. You need to consider what features that watch offers, its size, and factors like the case material. You need to decide whether that watch is suitable for work, home life, and whatever you get up to in your spare time. If it isn’t, you may consider investing in multiple timepieces – a design for every occasion. 

That, in itself, opens up a whole host of other factors to consider. Do you need a “going out watch” and a daily beater? Or can you combine a watch for the office with a GMT feature for times when you travel on business? There are so many options.

On top of that, you’ll also need to decide what type of watch movement you want. This guide is going to focus on just that – watch movements. What are they? How many different kinds of watch movements are there? And which one is the best? I will answer all those big questions for you in this guide. Let me provide a quick overview before we get stuck into the nitty-gritty details.

An Overview of the Different Types of Watch Movements

First thing is first: watches fall into one of two main categories. On the one hand, we have mechanical, and on the other, quartz. But wait (it was never going to be that simple, was it?), there’s more. Mechanical watches are further divided into two sub-categories: the automatic type and the hand-wound type.

In this article, whenever you see me refer to a hand-wound watch, you’ll know that it means the manually-powered type. These watches need regular winding by hand to keep time accurately. 

Automatics are the type of mechanical movement that require no hand winding and, instead, source their energy from the natural movement created by your wrist. An automatic movement is also called a self-winding movement (just to make things a little more complicated!). 

With an automatic movement, the mainspring is perpetually wound by an oscillating weight. This weight effectively does what your fingers would be doing if you were manually winding a hand-wound watch.

So, that’s the basic run-through of mechanical watch movements. But what is quartz, you ask?  Well, quartz watches have no mechanical mainspring at all. Instead, they use a small battery that creates an electrical charge that powers the hands around the dial. 

Even the basics of watch movement terminology will tell you that the two main types that power a watch are very different things. They work in different ways but achieve the same overall purpose – to propel a set of hands accurately around a dial, telling the wearer what time of day it is. Functionality-wise, movements can vary in their complexity, too.

Aside from a simple day or date feature, advanced functions can include stopwatches, perpetual calendars, moon phase indicators, power reserve displays, tourbillons, small second functions, flyback chronographs, and rattrapante chronographs, to name just a few examples. Let’s take a deeper look into the different movements of a watch and compare them to one another. 

What Is a Mechanical Movement? 

All mechanical movements contain a metal coil called a mainspring that produces power as it unwinds. What tightens the mainspring in the first place is the winding of a manual watch or a weighted rotor in an automatic watch. As you manually wind a watch, the spring curves and retains energy, which is then released in a controlled and steady manner to keep perfect time on the dial side.

The release of the tension in the mainspring is all down to a series of gears and wheels. This is what is also known as the Going Train. The component that releases the energy from the mainspring is the escapement. 

This is an integral part of the mechanics of a movement since it prevents the mainspring from instantly unwinding itself and losing all its power. To unwind rhythmically it requires the help of an escape wheel and a balance fork.

The escape wheel catches on a palette that clicks back and forth, controlled by a fork lever, which in turn catches on an impulse pin attached to the balance wheel. The balance wheel must be regulated the whole time for the watch to keep accurate time. This is the element you’ll see rocking back and forth behind an exhibition window on the back of a watch case. 

Automatic watches work in a very similar way to a manual winding movement, except for the fact that they use a weighted rotor. The rotor spins on its axis as natural movement is created in the wrist, automatically coiling the mainspring without the need for manual winding. 

The rotor can either be unidirectional or bidirectional winding. However, the benefit of a bidirectional winding movement is that it utilizes the energy that would normally be wasted on a unidirectional winding movement.

The first mechanical watches date back to the 1500s, eventually becoming more discreet as they evolved from large pocket watches to convenient wrist-worn companions. The first mechanical wristwatch was produced by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1810 (yes, that Breguet!). 

Before then, however, several pioneers had played an integral role in bringing timepieces up to a “modern” level of precision, including the balance spring, invented by Robert Hooke and Christiaan Huygens in 1675, John Harrison’s marine chronometer of 1760, and, eventually, the automatic wristwatch by John Harwood.

What Is a Quartz Movement? 

Quartz movements work in a completely different way from manual movements. Despite being a more affordable option, they are more accurate than mechanical movements, and this is all down to the frequency of the vibrations of a quartz crystal.

The Quartz Crisis, as it became known, occurred during the 1970 and 1980s after the arrival of the quartz movement. Japanese brands propelled the success of the battery-operated watch, releasing digital and analog watches powered by this cheaper alternative that could be mass-produced at a quick rate. 

It sent many traditional Swiss watch companies to an early demise, many of whom simply couldn’t compete with the sheer popularity of the new-found movement. Some brands overcome these hurdles, however, by manufacturing quartz versions of their most popular mechanical designs.

Quartz timekeeping begins with a battery that sends a current to a microchip. This microchip causes a piece of quartz crystal to vibrate at an astonishing rate – 32,768 times per second, to be more precise! These oscillations are picked up by another microchip, which then turns them into electrical impulses. The pulse then activates an electric stepping motor, which is what causes a set of tiny gears to move the hands around the dial. 

Quartz watches use piezoelectricity, which makes for an exceptionally accurate form of timekeeping. The Japanese are credited with initiating the concept of the Quartz Movement. More specifically, it was Seiko that released the first quartz watch – the Seiko Astron. It launched in 1969, revolutionizing the watchmaking industry and dominating the market for well over a decade. 

Quartz Movements Vs Mechanical Movements – Which Are Best? 

In order to better understand how a quartz stacks up against a mechanical watch (and vice versa), it makes sense to break each type down into a list of pros and cons.

The Pros and Cons of a Quartz Watch

Quartz watches are generally easier to maintain and look after than mechanical timepieces since they require no regular service. There’s also a lot less that can go wrong with a quartz, and some collectors enjoy the ease of regularly wearing one. Quartz watches tend to be cheaper than automatics since they can be mass-produced by machinery rather than hand-built. They’re also more accurate than a mechanical watch.

On the other hand, quartz watches don’t last forever. A battery will run out every 2-3 years (by which time you may be ready for a change anyway), which may require a trip to a watch repair center. They can also be harmful to the environment since the disposing of quartz batteries is not eco-friendly. 

In general, they lack the mechanical appeal that many watch connoisseurs love about watch collecting, and the second hand of a quartz watch will jump rather than sweep, constituting a less visually appealing experience.

The Pros and Cons of a Mechanical Watch

Everything reversed in what I have just outlined for the quartz watch, really! Mechanical watches are not as accurate as quartz watches. They’re also more expensive and can be costly should they need a replacement part or a repair. You also need to think about servicing a mechanical watch every few years to ensure it “runs like clockwork”.

On the upside, mechanical watches tend to be made by traditional watchmakers using time-honored techniques and skills that are learned within the trade. 

As such, the finish and craftsmanship in a traditional mechanical watch are different from that in a quartz, which all compounds the desire for a mechanical watch and the novelty of collecting them. They bring a sense of nostalgia to the wrist, allowing the wearer to admire the movement in motion, either from the caseback or dial side.

In-house or Third-Party Movement? 

Depending on whether you’re a budding watch enthusiast or not, you may already have some understanding of the difference between an in-house movement and a third-party movement. 

A “manufacture” movement should refer to a product that has been developed entirely in-house. This means that every part of the engine, including the mainplate, rotor, and hairpins should all be produced by the manufacturer.

Over the years, however, the definition of the term “Manufacture” has become murky and the lines blurred. The term has been used as a market-driving element in promoting a watch brand since very few would actually qualify as a true “Manufacture” company. Still, some connoisseurs will settle for nothing less than a pedigree movement. 

The opportunity to view said movement through a caseback, complete with traditional decoration and, perhaps, a customized rotor, is all part of the allure of collecting mechanical timepieces. Brands that don’t make their own movements will tend to source Japanese movements like Miyota or reliable Swiss power horses like ETA and Sellita. 

What About Solar-Powered Watches? 

Today, the term “Solar Powered” is quite misleading because many watches under this category get their energy from other light sources, not just from the sun’s rays. One leader in this realm of movement manufacture is Citizen, with its world-famous Eco-Drive technology. Eco-Drive watches arrived on the scene in 1976. Despite them being a ground-breaking revelation in timekeeping, their battery life in the early days was considerably low.

Over the following decade, Citizen began focusing its efforts on improving and upgrading the capability of the solar-powered movement. By 1986, its watch could run on eight days of power from a single charge of light. Fast forward another decade, and the movement could last an entire 6 months! The first Eco-Drive watches featured a translucent dial with a solar cell panel mounted underneath. 

This component supplied energy to a lithium-ion battery. Since this form of technology greatly reduced the number of batteries required for watchmaking, Eco-Drive watches soon became a preferred option for the environmentally conscious.  

Seiko is another Japanese brand and another leader in solar-powered technology. In fact, when it revived the Speedtimer as part of its Prospex collection, it decided to eschew the automatic movement in favor of a solar-powered one. The watch could run for six months on a single charge of light, boosting its popularity with avid Speedtimer fans. Together, Seiko and Citizen remain masters in pioneering solar-powered technology, yet Casio, Junghans, and Cartier have also dabbled in the field. 

What is the Spring Drive Movement?

Spring Drive technology by Seiko works differently from mechanical watches and quartz watches and deserves a category of its own. It combines the best parts of mechanical timekeeping with the best parts of a quartz movement. 

By that, I mean it contains a mainspring that allows it to power larger, heavier hands, but no escapement. Instead, it uses what Seiko calls a Tri-Synchro Regulator, which replaces several otherwise delicate parts. 

The components can produce quartz-like accuracy by controlling the flow of power to the mainspring. Simply put, the Tri-Synchro Regulator features a wheel at the end of the movement’s gear train that spins eight times per second, generating an electric current. This current activates a quartz oscillator, oscillating at an exceptional rate, producing a level of accuracy that is superior to other mechanical watches.

The first Spring Drive movement was released in 1999 but had been in the making for an entire two decades before that. Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches have an average autonomy of 72 hours and are still considered a triumph in watch technology.

The Takeaway

Hopefully, this guide has gone some way to explaining the different watch movements and how they compare to one another. Quartz watches are more accurate than mechanical watches, but automatics and manual winds are often a preferred choice for the horologically curious. The great thing about the market for luxury timepieces is that there is always plenty of choice, no matter your preference.

The whole point of collecting timepieces and wearing them is to enjoy them, whether that means the latest timekeeping technology on the market or the simpler, no-nonsense type.

Unless you’re a bit of a watch snob, you’ll agree when I say there are fantastic watches to be had at all price points across the market. If we’re being completely honest here, a great deal of those sitting in the affordable sector don’t get half the recognition they deserve. Some watches below the $1k mark can keep better time than those costing just short of $30k.

If you’re a true connoisseur, you’ll have the ability to appreciate the beauty found in all classes of watches. It’s a little like being an artist or an aesthete. To interpret a piece of art, one must appreciate that beauty comes in many forms, and what is a work of art to one may not be to another’s taste. Watchmaking is similar. 

There are many interpretations of the wristwatch, and while some may argue that the Rolex Daytona is overpriced, others will pay an arm and a leg for one.

From the cheap and cheerful Casio of the watch world to the highly coveted Patek Philippe Nautilus or the AP Royal Oak – one thing is for sure. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. But this doesn’t explain the reason behind one frequently pondered question. Why are some watches so expensive?

To answer this question, we need to explore several factors in a considerable level of detail. We should look at manufacturing techniques, materials, brand provenance, exclusivity, and how supply versus demand impacts the desirability of a watch and how highly that brand is regarded.

Looking at all these elements will provide solid answers to some burning questions you may have before setting out on your watch-collecting journey. But more importantly, by the time you reach the end of this article, you’ll have formed some sort of an opinion on whether expensive watches are really worth it. After all, can you really put a price on horological love?

Let’s dig in deep and look at some factors that determine the price of a luxury watch and why. 

Are Watches Really That Expensive?

I mean, it’s a debate that could last all day. Like anything in life, the price spectrum for watches, both the luxury and designer kind, is huge. And how do you even define what “expensive” is anyway? Doesn’t it depend on who you ask?

One person could spend $100k on a classic sports car and only take it for a spin twice a year. To him, that car is worth its weight in gold because it’s been his ultimate dream since the age of 10. Ask him what he’s willing to spend on a watch, however, and you may get a very different answer depending on whether watches are his passion or just a practical necessity.

The truth is, if you’re not a watch person, you won’t want to spend good money on one. In that same vein, if your grail watch just so happens to be an expensive Rolex or Patek, you’re going to jump through hoops to find the money for one. You’ll make it work because whatever the cost, it’s a small price to pay for happiness. 

But let’s keep it real. For the majority of us enthusiasts, premium, high-end, luxury timepieces aren’t a daily purchase, and we often need to consider how much we can and want to spend on one before splashing out.

What Makes Luxury Watches So Expensive 

Big watches mean big bucks. What I mean by that is if you want to wear an industry-respected name on your wrist, it’s going to cost you. Money doesn’t just grow on trees, either, so understanding what makes a watch expensive will help you factor in everything you need before taking the plunge. Here are a few reasons why some watches are so costly.

Research and Development

Technology like Montblanc’s Summit, Hublot’s Big Bang Tourbillon, and TAG Heuer’s lab-grown diamonds don’t just appear overnight. It takes many leading brands in the industry years to innovate new design concepts. 

Manufacturers like Rolex produce their own in-house case materials, while British brand Bremont opened up a 5,000 sq ft state-of-the-art Manufacturing & Technology Centre just a couple of years ago. The facilities act as a museum, a workshop, and a research center for trialing new concepts.

Aside from the amount of time it takes a brand to produce a watch, R&D also greatly determines the expense of a watch. The more advanced watchmaking becomes, the more the collector expects it. 

Watchmakers spend millions of dollars a year on perfecting new manufacturing techniques to keep watches exciting and interesting. New movements, new materials, and improving staff training are just some of the ways they may need to invest their money.

It’s also worth noting that brands will have more than one project on the go. Sometimes watch movements can take several years to develop, and not all will be successful. Whether a hit or not, these costs all need to be worked into the price of the company’s watches.

Working With In-House Components

Quite often, budget brands and micro brands aiming their designs at smaller audiences will keep their costs down by outsourcing their watch components. This means that anything from a movement to a case or even a set of dial hands can be sourced from third parties. It’s not uncommon for brands to source components from Asia or have their watches assembled in China, either.

ETA and Miyota movements are often outfitted in affordable watches. You may also recognize the name Sellita being used when researching the movement inside a watch. In other cases, brands may modify a mainstream movement and re-label it.

While there is plenty of snobbery surrounding the topic of in-house movements being more reliable than mainstream movements, there is a reason why Sellita and ETA movements have been around for donkey’s years. They are tried-and-tested movements renowned for their reliability and precision.

Of course, there is no guarantee that in-house components like case materials and movements are going to perform better than third-party components. However, some collectors prefer a vertically integrated company. I guess it’s the reassurance that one brand is solely responsible for the design, manufacture, and assembly of those components. Potentially, this means that there is only one place to go to get a service or repair carried out. But in some ways, this serves to make a watch feel more exclusive and elite.

The Handcrafted Touch

Craftsmanship gets expensive very quickly. As you move further into the luxury realm of timekeeping, you see less machine work. The skilled labor behind the making of a watch is lengthy and meticulous. Many watchmakers working for a reputable company undergo years of training to reach the level at which they can be considered skilled craftsmen of Haute Horlogerie.

There’s probably a lot less science involved in watchmaking than you think. To become a true artisan, watchmaking becomes more intuitive than anything else. There’s a ton of skill behind an expensive watch. In this line of work, even the tiniest of imperfections can ruin a design.

The decorative side of watchmaking is just as impressive. Time-honored techniques and traditions are learned at the bench and, sometimes, take decades to perfect. Elaborate engravings, chamfering, and engine-turned dials are what you pay for and expect to see in a high-end watch.

Dial & Case Finishing

Similar to the topic of craftsmanship, the finishing on a dial and case is one way of highlighting the exponential difference between a budget watch and a high-end timepiece. Surprisingly, the case material itself rarely reflects in the cost of a watch. 

Moreover, it is the care and attention that goes into it that does. Take the steel sports watch as an example. The integrated bracelet design is a highly coveted one that, despite being made from a more affordable material, can sell for a much higher price than its gold counterpart.

Another example is Rado. The Swiss brand produces its own high-tech ceramic. The product is incredibly difficult and expensive to produce, and the brand does it all in-house, yet they’re still very reasonably priced.

 On the other hand, a ceramic watch by Audemars Piguet can run you up a staggering $98k! But Audemars Piguet is considered part of the Holy Trinity in horology, alongside Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe – two other expensive watch brands – so go figure!

The complexity of case finishing across the market varies massively, and this, in turn, reflects in the price of a watch. A perfectly round and polished case is much easier to produce than a case with compound curves, executed in a mix of brushed and polished surfaces. 

A lot of these finishes are still done by hand. Even a degree of inconsistency associated with hand finishing adds character to a watch. Collectors often favor (and will pay a high price for) artisan handwork over machined perfection.

Guilloche dials, hand-painted enamel displays, and signature dial patterns on a watch face also reflect a high price tag. The engine-turned dials you see in a Breguet watch, for example, are praised and celebrated amongst watch connoisseurs. And the Tapisserie dial of an AP watch is rooted in tradition, just like Clous de Paris (or hobnail) dials are synonymous with watches like the Calatrava from Patek Philippe.

The Importance of Attention to Detail

Similar to the finish in a case or on a dial, meticulous finishes demand a higher price and reflect a higher level of work. Attention to detail in a watch showcases a level of artistry and complexity that you simply can’t find in a budget watch.

The dedication involved in creating a unique timepiece, bound by a learned skill, naturally imbues a watch with intrinsic value. For many collectors, appreciating the meticulous finishes in a watch is all part of the appeal of acquiring these coveted items.

Wearing a Status Symbol

Luxury watches are sometimes viewed as a symbol of status and wealth. To a great degree, they’re an extension of the wearer’s personality. Being a watch enthusiast myself, I often look at what a person is wearing on his wrist. 

Call me “judgy”, and I certainly wouldn’t recommend this method to determine whether someone is a good human or not, but I like to think it’s a horophile’s way of instinctively sniffing out someone with equally good taste.

Also, historically, watches have always been an indication of someone’s wealth. When you’ve experienced any level of success in life, the natural thing to want to do is buy a product that reflects it in some way. 

While some investments can be flashy, a watch is a rather understated way to show the world you’re doing well in life. More importantly, though, they’re an expression of a person’s identity.

What may be an impulsive buy for someone with plenty of cash to splash may be a careful and considered purchase for another. Either way, wearing a status symbol comes at a price, and part of the enjoyment of owning one is reaching the milestone at which you can become an owner of a truly coveted timepiece.

The Exclusivity Factor  

The price of a watch can increase when you pay for a revered name. More often than not, this element goes hand-in-hand with wearing a status symbol – something that is vastly recognized as a coveted timepiece. 

Some of the most collectible timepieces are the rarest and most expensive and come with a high price tag. Worn by those in niche watch-collecting circles, the Patek Philippe fans and Vacheron Constantin enthusiasts of the world enjoy the feel of exclusivity that an expensive watch brings.

Micro brands, to an extent, can also offer this experience. What many don’t realize is that lots of micro brands largely make up their watches with catalog parts. Cases, dials, bracelets, end links, clasps, hands, indices, and crowns are taken off the shelf and custom-made, allowing wearers a level of control over the customization element of their watch. 

While the parts themselves are not “exclusive” in the grand scheme of things, a collector can enjoy a watch produced to his spec by paying for the design and tooling of a watch over buying a finished design.

Next, I’ll talk about supply and how low quantities of a watch can feed into the exclusivity factor and its desirability among enthusiasts. But it’s important to acknowledge that a lot of the time, it’s a culmination of several factors bound together in a watch design that makes it so expensive.

Supply Vs Demand

One of the contributing factors that make watches so expensive is the quantity of the product, how long it takes to manufacture, and how many collectors demand it. These three factors are all inextricably linked.

The imbalance of supply vs demand leads to an increase in the desirability of a watch. Ridiculous waiting lists can rack up as brands try to manage the supply of watches to customers. It also gives a company more scope to increase prices. Those who manage to acquire a long-awaited timepiece may sell it for a much higher price to a collector who is happy to pay it.

Some watches are more in demand than others, which highlights the importance of resale value on the pre-owned market later down the line. Some investment-worthy timepieces appreciate in value as time goes on. Others lose value. 

Resale will always fluctuate, but generally speaking, iconic watches produced in small batches or limited edition quantities sell for a higher price on the secondary market than their initial retail price.

The Impact of Marketing Costs

The story behind a brand and its provenance pays for itself in terms of marketing. If a watchmaker has an intriguing and revered history, the watches sell themselves. After all, timepieces are symbols of ingenuity and a testament to the relentless pursuit of horological beauty. Standing the test of time throughout the years and surviving turbulent historical landmarks like the Quartz Crisis, for example, goes a long way in securing a solid fan base.

All brands want to sell their watches. Typically, some will sponsor prestigious events that reflect their values in a particular field, be that business, sports, or diving. Some examples may include football championships, tennis tournaments, or Formula 1 and yachting teams. Companies like TAG Heuer and Breitling put particular focus on having a family of brand ambassadors that promote and sell “the lifestyle”.

Marketing is often the final step in the watchmaking chain, but it’s an important one. Since brands need to factor the costs of marketing into their products, we are inevitably paying for the advert that made us buy it in the first place.

Should You Buy an Expensive Watch?

When it comes to expensive watches, the proof is in the pudding. You either feel strongly about luxury watches and their meticulous craftsmanship and beauty, or you don’t. The majority of passionate collectors share the same opinion – that they are worth every penny.   

Expensive timepieces and horological innovation go hand-in-hand. These beautiful instruments are works of art and mechanical masterpieces all rolled into one.

Being able to appreciate the intricacies of a timepiece by flipping it over and admiring the working movement is not a learned skill. Moreover, it’s an innate, deep-seated affection for timekeeping and the desire to keep the tradition of this craft alive. 

Those who appreciate the complexities of crafting an authentic watch and the time and skill it takes to complete one will share the opinion that expensive watches are certainly worth it.

Wrapping Up

A watch does not instantly become expensive the moment you move from a quartz battery to a mechanical movement. There are so many other factors at play that control and determine the price of a watch. 

Sometimes, there are more obvious signs as to why you’d pay more for one luxury watch over another. Brand name and provenance, along with materials, are just a few examples.

Other factors are more subtle, but when you reach the stage in your watch-collecting journey where you can look deeper into a design and appreciate these small details, the price-to-value logic becomes more of a rational thing.