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Types of Watch Movements Explained

Posted on October 25, 2024October 25, 2024 by Nina S

In this comprehensive guide to watch movements, we’ll discuss the key mechanisms used in accurate timekeeping and compare them in detail.

Navigating the world of watches is not just as simple as choosing a design you like the look of. You need to consider what features that watch offers, its size, and factors like the case material. You need to decide whether that watch is suitable for work, home life, and whatever you get up to in your spare time. If it isn’t, you may consider investing in multiple timepieces – a design for every occasion.

That, in itself, opens up a whole host of other factors to consider. Do you need a “going out watch” and a daily beater? Or can you combine a watch for the office with a GMT feature for times when you travel on business? There are so many options.

On top of that, you’ll also need to decide what type of watch movement you want. This guide is going to focus on just that – watch movements. What are they? How many different kinds of watch movements are there? And which one is the best? I will answer all those big questions for you in this guide. Let me provide a quick overview before we get stuck into the nitty-gritty details.

An Overview of the Different Types of Watch Movements

First thing is first: watches fall into one of two main categories. On the one hand, we have mechanical, and on the other, quartz. But wait (it was never going to be that simple, was it?), there’s more. Mechanical watches are further divided into two sub-categories: the automatic type and the hand-wound type.

In this article, whenever you see me refer to a hand-wound watch, you’ll know that it means the manually-powered type. These watches need regular winding by hand to keep time accurately.

Automatics are the type of mechanical movement that require no hand winding and, instead, source their energy from the natural movement created by your wrist. An automatic movement is also called a self-winding movement (just to make things a little more complicated!).

With an automatic movement, the mainspring is perpetually wound by an oscillating weight. This weight effectively does what your fingers would be doing if you were manually winding a hand-wound watch.

So, that’s the basic run-through of mechanical watch movements. But what is quartz, you ask? Well, quartz watches have no mechanical mainspring at all. Instead, they use a small battery that creates an electrical charge that powers the hands around the dial.

Even the basics of watch movement terminology will tell you that the two main types that power a watch are very different things. They work in different ways but achieve the same overall purpose – to propel a set of hands accurately around a dial, telling the wearer what time of day it is. Functionality-wise, movements can vary in their complexity, too.

Aside from a simple day or date feature, advanced functions can include stopwatches, perpetual calendars, moon phase indicators, power reserve displays, tourbillons, small second functions, flyback chronographs, and rattrapante chronographs, to name just a few examples. Let’s take a deeper look into the different movements of a watch and compare them to one another.

What Is a Mechanical Movement?

All mechanical movements contain a metal coil called a mainspring that produces power as it unwinds. What tightens the mainspring in the first place is the winding of a manual watch or a weighted rotor in an automatic watch. As you manually wind a watch, the spring curves and retains energy, which is then released in a controlled and steady manner to keep perfect time on the dial side.

The release of the tension in the mainspring is all down to a series of gears and wheels. This is what is also known as the Going Train. The component that releases the energy from the mainspring is the escapement.

This is an integral part of the mechanics of a movement since it prevents the mainspring from instantly unwinding itself and losing all its power. To unwind rhythmically it requires the help of an escape wheel and a balance fork.

The escape wheel catches on a palette that clicks back and forth, controlled by a fork lever, which in turn catches on an impulse pin attached to the balance wheel. The balance wheel must be regulated the whole time for the watch to keep accurate time. This is the element you’ll see rocking back and forth behind an exhibition window on the back of a watch case.

Automatic watches work in a very similar way to a manual winding movement, except for the fact that they use a weighted rotor. The rotor spins on its axis as natural movement is created in the wrist, automatically coiling the mainspring without the need for manual winding.

The rotor can either be unidirectional or bidirectional winding. However, the benefit of a bidirectional winding movement is that it utilizes the energy that would normally be wasted on a unidirectional winding movement.

The first mechanical watches date back to the 1500s, eventually becoming more discreet as they evolved from large pocket watches to convenient wrist-worn companions. The first mechanical wristwatch was produced by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1810 (yes, that Breguet!).

Before then, however, several pioneers had played an integral role in bringing timepieces up to a “modern” level of precision, including the balance spring, invented by Robert Hooke and Christiaan Huygens in 1675, John Harrison’s marine chronometer of 1760, and, eventually, the automatic wristwatch by John Harwood.

What Is a Quartz Movement?

Quartz movements work in a completely different way from manual movements. Despite being a more affordable option, they are more accurate than mechanical movements, and this is all down to the frequency of the vibrations of a quartz crystal.

The Quartz Crisis, as it became known, occurred during the 1970 and 1980s after the arrival of the quartz movement. Japanese brands propelled the success of the battery-operated watch, releasing digital and analog watches powered by this cheaper alternative that could be mass-produced at a quick rate.

It sent many traditional Swiss watch companies to an early demise, many of whom simply couldn’t compete with the sheer popularity of the new-found movement. Some brands overcome these hurdles, however, by manufacturing quartz versions of their most popular mechanical designs.

Quartz timekeeping begins with a battery that sends a current to a microchip. This microchip causes a piece of quartz crystal to vibrate at an astonishing rate – 32,768 times per second, to be more precise! These oscillations are picked up by another microchip, which then turns them into electrical impulses. The pulse then activates an electric stepping motor, which is what causes a set of tiny gears to move the hands around the dial.

Quartz watches use piezoelectricity, which makes for an exceptionally accurate form of timekeeping. The Japanese are credited with initiating the concept of the Quartz Movement. More specifically, it was Seiko that released the first quartz watch – the Seiko Astron. It launched in 1969, revolutionizing the watchmaking industry and dominating the market for well over a decade.

Quartz Movements Vs Mechanical Movements – Which Are Best?

In order to better understand how a quartz stacks up against a mechanical watch (and vice versa), it makes sense to break each type down into a list of pros and cons.

The Pros and Cons of a Quartz Watch

Quartz watches are generally easier to maintain and look after than mechanical timepieces since they require no regular service. There’s also a lot less that can go wrong with a quartz, and some collectors enjoy the ease of regularly wearing one. Quartz watches tend to be cheaper than automatics since they can be mass-produced by machinery rather than hand-built. They’re also more accurate than a mechanical watch.

On the other hand, quartz watches don’t last forever. A battery will run out every 2-3 years (by which time you may be ready for a change anyway), which may require a trip to a watch repair center. They can also be harmful to the environment since the disposing of quartz batteries is not eco-friendly.

In general, they lack the mechanical appeal that many watch connoisseurs love about watch collecting, and the second hand of a quartz watch will jump rather than sweep, constituting a less visually appealing experience.

The Pros and Cons of a Mechanical Watch

Everything reversed in what I have just outlined for the quartz watch, really! Mechanical watches are not as accurate as quartz watches. They’re also more expensive and can be costly should they need a replacement part or a repair. You also need to think about servicing a mechanical watch every few years to ensure it “runs like clockwork”.

On the upside, mechanical watches tend to be made by traditional watchmakers using time-honored techniques and skills that are learned within the trade.

As such, the finish and craftsmanship in a traditional mechanical watch are different from that in a quartz, which all compounds the desire for a mechanical watch and the novelty of collecting them. They bring a sense of nostalgia to the wrist, allowing the wearer to admire the movement in motion, either from the caseback or dial side.

In-house or Third-Party Movement?

Depending on whether you’re a budding watch enthusiast or not, you may already have some understanding of the difference between an in-house movement and a third-party movement.

A “manufacture” movement should refer to a product that has been developed entirely in-house. This means that every part of the engine, including the mainplate, rotor, and hairpins should all be produced by the manufacturer.

Over the years, however, the definition of the term “Manufacture” has become murky and the lines blurred. The term has been used as a market-driving element in promoting a watch brand since very few would actually qualify as a true “Manufacture” company. Still, some connoisseurs will settle for nothing less than a pedigree movement.

The opportunity to view said movement through a caseback, complete with traditional decoration and, perhaps, a customized rotor, is all part of the allure of collecting mechanical timepieces. Brands that don’t make their own movements will tend to source Japanese movements like Miyota or reliable Swiss power horses like ETA and Sellita.

What About Solar-Powered Watches?

Today, the term “Solar Powered” is quite misleading because many watches under this category get their energy from other light sources, not just from the sun’s rays. One leader in this realm of movement manufacture is Citizen, with its world-famous Eco-Drive technology. Eco-Drive watches arrived on the scene in 1976. Despite them being a ground-breaking revelation in timekeeping, their battery life in the early days was considerably low.

Over the following decade, Citizen began focusing its efforts on improving and upgrading the capability of the solar-powered movement. By 1986, its watch could run on eight days of power from a single charge of light. Fast forward another decade, and the movement could last an entire 6 months! The first Eco-Drive watches featured a translucent dial with a solar cell panel mounted underneath.

This component supplied energy to a lithium-ion battery. Since this form of technology greatly reduced the number of batteries required for watchmaking, Eco-Drive watches soon became a preferred option for the environmentally conscious.

Seiko is another Japanese brand and another leader in solar-powered technology. In fact, when it revived the Speedtimer as part of its Prospex collection, it decided to eschew the automatic movement in favor of a solar-powered one. The watch could run for six months on a single charge of light, boosting its popularity with avid Speedtimer fans. Together, Seiko and Citizen remain masters in pioneering solar-powered technology, yet Casio, Junghans, and Cartier have also dabbled in the field.

What is the Spring Drive Movement?

Spring Drive technology by Seiko works differently from mechanical watches and quartz watches and deserves a category of its own. It combines the best parts of mechanical timekeeping with the best parts of a quartz movement.

By that, I mean it contains a mainspring that allows it to power larger, heavier hands, but no escapement. Instead, it uses what Seiko calls a Tri-Synchro Regulator, which replaces several otherwise delicate parts.

The components can produce quartz-like accuracy by controlling the flow of power to the mainspring. Simply put, the Tri-Synchro Regulator features a wheel at the end of the movement’s gear train that spins eight times per second, generating an electric current. This current activates a quartz oscillator, oscillating at an exceptional rate, producing a level of accuracy that is superior to other mechanical watches.

The first Spring Drive movement was released in 1999 but had been in the making for an entire two decades before that. Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches have an average autonomy of 72 hours and are still considered a triumph in watch technology.

The Takeaway

Hopefully, this guide has gone some way to explaining the different watch movements and how they compare to one another. Quartz watches are more accurate than mechanical watches, but automatics and manual winds are often a preferred choice for the horologically curious. The great thing about the market for luxury timepieces is that there is always plenty of choice, no matter your preference.

The whole point of collecting timepieces and wearing them is to enjoy them, whether that means the latest timekeeping technology on the market or the simpler, no-nonsense type.

Why Are Watches So Expensive?

Posted on October 4, 2024October 25, 2024 by Nina S

Unless you’re a bit of a watch snob, you’ll agree when I say there are fantastic watches to be had at all price points across the market. If we’re being completely honest here, a great deal of those sitting in the affordable sector don’t get half the recognition they deserve. Some watches below the $1k mark can keep better time than those costing just short of $30k.

If you’re a true connoisseur, you’ll have the ability to appreciate the beauty found in all classes of watches. It’s a little like being an artist or an aesthete. To interpret a piece of art, one must appreciate that beauty comes in many forms, and what is a work of art to one may not be to another’s taste. Watchmaking is similar.

There are many interpretations of the wristwatch, and while some may argue that the Rolex Daytona is overpriced, others will pay an arm and a leg for one.

From the cheap and cheerful Casio of the watch world to the highly coveted Patek Philippe Nautilus or the AP Royal Oak – one thing is for sure. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. But this doesn’t explain the reason behind one frequently pondered question. Why are some watches so expensive?

To answer this question, we need to explore several factors in a considerable level of detail. We should look at manufacturing techniques, materials, brand provenance, exclusivity, and how supply versus demand impacts the desirability of a watch and how highly that brand is regarded.

Looking at all these elements will provide solid answers to some burning questions you may have before setting out on your watch-collecting journey. But more importantly, by the time you reach the end of this article, you’ll have formed some sort of an opinion on whether expensive watches are really worth it. After all, can you really put a price on horological love?

Let’s dig in deep and look at some factors that determine the price of a luxury watch and why.

Are Watches Really That Expensive?

I mean, it’s a debate that could last all day. Like anything in life, the price spectrum for watches, both the luxury and designer kind, is huge. And how do you even define what “expensive” is anyway? Doesn’t it depend on who you ask?

One person could spend $100k on a classic sports car and only take it for a spin twice a year. To him, that car is worth its weight in gold because it’s been his ultimate dream since the age of 10. Ask him what he’s willing to spend on a watch, however, and you may get a very different answer depending on whether watches are his passion or just a practical necessity.

The truth is, if you’re not a watch person, you won’t want to spend good money on one. In that same vein, if your grail watch just so happens to be an expensive Rolex or Patek, you’re going to jump through hoops to find the money for one. You’ll make it work because whatever the cost, it’s a small price to pay for happiness.

But let’s keep it real. For the majority of us enthusiasts, premium, high-end, luxury timepieces aren’t a daily purchase, and we often need to consider how much we can and want to spend on one before splashing out.

What Makes Luxury Watches So Expensive

Big watches mean big bucks. What I mean by that is if you want to wear an industry-respected name on your wrist, it’s going to cost you. Money doesn’t just grow on trees, either, so understanding what makes a watch expensive will help you factor in everything you need before taking the plunge. Here are a few reasons why some watches are so costly.

Research and Development

Technology like Montblanc’s Summit, Hublot’s Big Bang Tourbillon, and TAG Heuer’s lab-grown diamonds don’t just appear overnight. It takes many leading brands in the industry years to innovate new design concepts.

Manufacturers like Rolex produce their own in-house case materials, while British brand Bremont opened up a 5,000 sq ft state-of-the-art Manufacturing & Technology Centre just a couple of years ago. The facilities act as a museum, a workshop, and a research center for trialing new concepts.

Aside from the amount of time it takes a brand to produce a watch, R&D also greatly determines the expense of a watch. The more advanced watchmaking becomes, the more the collector expects it.

Watchmakers spend millions of dollars a year on perfecting new manufacturing techniques to keep watches exciting and interesting. New movements, new materials, and improving staff training are just some of the ways they may need to invest their money.

It’s also worth noting that brands will have more than one project on the go. Sometimes watch movements can take several years to develop, and not all will be successful. Whether a hit or not, these costs all need to be worked into the price of the company’s watches.

Working With In-House Components

Quite often, budget brands and micro brands aiming their designs at smaller audiences will keep their costs down by outsourcing their watch components. This means that anything from a movement to a case or even a set of dial hands can be sourced from third parties. It’s not uncommon for brands to source components from Asia or have their watches assembled in China, either.

ETA and Miyota movements are often outfitted in affordable watches. You may also recognize the name Sellita being used when researching the movement inside a watch. In other cases, brands may modify a mainstream movement and re-label it.

While there is plenty of snobbery surrounding the topic of in-house movements being more reliable than mainstream movements, there is a reason why Sellita and ETA movements have been around for donkey’s years. They are tried-and-tested movements renowned for their reliability and precision.

Of course, there is no guarantee that in-house components like case materials and movements are going to perform better than third-party components. However, some collectors prefer a vertically integrated company. I guess it’s the reassurance that one brand is solely responsible for the design, manufacture, and assembly of those components. Potentially, this means that there is only one place to go to get a service or repair carried out. But in some ways, this serves to make a watch feel more exclusive and elite.

The Handcrafted Touch

Craftsmanship gets expensive very quickly. As you move further into the luxury realm of timekeeping, you see less machine work. The skilled labor behind the making of a watch is lengthy and meticulous. Many watchmakers working for a reputable company undergo years of training to reach the level at which they can be considered skilled craftsmen of Haute Horlogerie.

There’s probably a lot less science involved in watchmaking than you think. To become a true artisan, watchmaking becomes more intuitive than anything else. There’s a ton of skill behind an expensive watch. In this line of work, even the tiniest of imperfections can ruin a design.

The decorative side of watchmaking is just as impressive. Time-honored techniques and traditions are learned at the bench and, sometimes, take decades to perfect. Elaborate engravings, chamfering, and engine-turned dials are what you pay for and expect to see in a high-end watch.

Dial & Case Finishing

Similar to the topic of craftsmanship, the finishing on a dial and case is one way of highlighting the exponential difference between a budget watch and a high-end timepiece. Surprisingly, the case material itself rarely reflects in the cost of a watch.

Moreover, it is the care and attention that goes into it that does. Take the steel sports watch as an example. The integrated bracelet design is a highly coveted one that, despite being made from a more affordable material, can sell for a much higher price than its gold counterpart.

Another example is Rado. The Swiss brand produces its own high-tech ceramic. The product is incredibly difficult and expensive to produce, and the brand does it all in-house, yet they’re still very reasonably priced.

On the other hand, a ceramic watch by Audemars Piguet can run you up a staggering $98k! But Audemars Piguet is considered part of the Holy Trinity in horology, alongside Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe – two other expensive watch brands – so go figure!

The complexity of case finishing across the market varies massively, and this, in turn, reflects in the price of a watch. A perfectly round and polished case is much easier to produce than a case with compound curves, executed in a mix of brushed and polished surfaces.

A lot of these finishes are still done by hand. Even a degree of inconsistency associated with hand finishing adds character to a watch. Collectors often favor (and will pay a high price for) artisan handwork over machined perfection.

Guilloche dials, hand-painted enamel displays, and signature dial patterns on a watch face also reflect a high price tag. The engine-turned dials you see in a Breguet watch, for example, are praised and celebrated amongst watch connoisseurs. And the Tapisserie dial of an AP watch is rooted in tradition, just like Clous de Paris (or hobnail) dials are synonymous with watches like the Calatrava from Patek Philippe.

The Importance of Attention to Detail

Similar to the finish in a case or on a dial, meticulous finishes demand a higher price and reflect a higher level of work. Attention to detail in a watch showcases a level of artistry and complexity that you simply can’t find in a budget watch.

The dedication involved in creating a unique timepiece, bound by a learned skill, naturally imbues a watch with intrinsic value. For many collectors, appreciating the meticulous finishes in a watch is all part of the appeal of acquiring these coveted items.

Wearing a Status Symbol

Luxury watches are sometimes viewed as a symbol of status and wealth. To a great degree, they’re an extension of the wearer’s personality. Being a watch enthusiast myself, I often look at what a person is wearing on his wrist.

Call me “judgy”, and I certainly wouldn’t recommend this method to determine whether someone is a good human or not, but I like to think it’s a horophile’s way of instinctively sniffing out someone with equally good taste.

Also, historically, watches have always been an indication of someone’s wealth. When you’ve experienced any level of success in life, the natural thing to want to do is buy a product that reflects it in some way.

While some investments can be flashy, a watch is a rather understated way to show the world you’re doing well in life. More importantly, though, they’re an expression of a person’s identity.

What may be an impulsive buy for someone with plenty of cash to splash may be a careful and considered purchase for another. Either way, wearing a status symbol comes at a price, and part of the enjoyment of owning one is reaching the milestone at which you can become an owner of a truly coveted timepiece.

The Exclusivity Factor

The price of a watch can increase when you pay for a revered name. More often than not, this element goes hand-in-hand with wearing a status symbol – something that is vastly recognized as a coveted timepiece.

Some of the most collectible timepieces are the rarest and most expensive and come with a high price tag. Worn by those in niche watch-collecting circles, the Patek Philippe fans and Vacheron Constantin enthusiasts of the world enjoy the feel of exclusivity that an expensive watch brings.

Micro brands, to an extent, can also offer this experience. What many don’t realize is that lots of micro brands largely make up their watches with catalog parts. Cases, dials, bracelets, end links, clasps, hands, indices, and crowns are taken off the shelf and custom-made, allowing wearers a level of control over the customization element of their watch.

While the parts themselves are not “exclusive” in the grand scheme of things, a collector can enjoy a watch produced to his spec by paying for the design and tooling of a watch over buying a finished design.

Next, I’ll talk about supply and how low quantities of a watch can feed into the exclusivity factor and its desirability among enthusiasts. But it’s important to acknowledge that a lot of the time, it’s a culmination of several factors bound together in a watch design that makes it so expensive.

Supply Vs Demand

One of the contributing factors that make watches so expensive is the quantity of the product, how long it takes to manufacture, and how many collectors demand it. These three factors are all inextricably linked.

The imbalance of supply vs demand leads to an increase in the desirability of a watch. Ridiculous waiting lists can rack up as brands try to manage the supply of watches to customers. It also gives a company more scope to increase prices. Those who manage to acquire a long-awaited timepiece may sell it for a much higher price to a collector who is happy to pay it.

Some watches are more in demand than others, which highlights the importance of resale value on the pre-owned market later down the line. Some investment-worthy timepieces appreciate in value as time goes on. Others lose value.

Resale will always fluctuate, but generally speaking, iconic watches produced in small batches or limited edition quantities sell for a higher price on the secondary market than their initial retail price.

The Impact of Marketing Costs

The story behind a brand and its provenance pays for itself in terms of marketing. If a watchmaker has an intriguing and revered history, the watches sell themselves. After all, timepieces are symbols of ingenuity and a testament to the relentless pursuit of horological beauty. Standing the test of time throughout the years and surviving turbulent historical landmarks like the Quartz Crisis, for example, goes a long way in securing a solid fan base.

All brands want to sell their watches. Typically, some will sponsor prestigious events that reflect their values in a particular field, be that business, sports, or diving. Some examples may include football championships, tennis tournaments, or Formula 1 and yachting teams. Companies like TAG Heuer and Breitling put particular focus on having a family of brand ambassadors that promote and sell “the lifestyle”.

Marketing is often the final step in the watchmaking chain, but it’s an important one. Since brands need to factor the costs of marketing into their products, we are inevitably paying for the advert that made us buy it in the first place.

Should You Buy an Expensive Watch?

When it comes to expensive watches, the proof is in the pudding. You either feel strongly about luxury watches and their meticulous craftsmanship and beauty, or you don’t. The majority of passionate collectors share the same opinion – that they are worth every penny.

Expensive timepieces and horological innovation go hand-in-hand. These beautiful instruments are works of art and mechanical masterpieces all rolled into one.

Being able to appreciate the intricacies of a timepiece by flipping it over and admiring the working movement is not a learned skill. Moreover, it’s an innate, deep-seated affection for timekeeping and the desire to keep the tradition of this craft alive.

Those who appreciate the complexities of crafting an authentic watch and the time and skill it takes to complete one will share the opinion that expensive watches are certainly worth it.

Wrapping Up

A watch does not instantly become expensive the moment you move from a quartz battery to a mechanical movement. There are so many other factors at play that control and determine the price of a watch.

Sometimes, there are more obvious signs as to why you’d pay more for one luxury watch over another. Brand name and provenance, along with materials, are just a few examples.

Other factors are more subtle, but when you reach the stage in your watch-collecting journey where you can look deeper into a design and appreciate these small details, the price-to-value logic becomes more of a rational thing.

Grand Seiko SBGC251 Review – Spring Drive meets Chronograph

Posted on September 18, 2024December 8, 2024 by Nina S

The Grand Seiko SBGC251 is a watch with staying power. Once you get some hands-on experience with it like I did, you’ll begin to appreciate all it offers. This is a watch that combines a GMT complication for travel with a sporty chronograph.

Moreover, the chronograph counters are not presented in your typical 3-6-9 format. The unconventional dial layout is one of its most striking features, along with a lightweight, high-intensity titanium case and sophisticated Spring Drive movement, of course. Before I share what I think about the SBGC251, let’s look at where the design came from.

About The Evolution 9 Series

The SBGC251 was released back in 2022 as part of the Japanese brand’s Evolution 9 Collection, which launched a couple of years earlier. For those who don’t already know, this collection represents one of the biggest launches of the company’s entire history.

To me, the watches from this series are all wish-list-worthy designs. They capture the traditions and landscapes of the brand’s finest practices. A culture whereby every creation since the company’s founding year of 1967 is inspired by its heritage or the nature surrounding it.

Sometimes Evolution 9 watches take inspiration from the changing seasons throughout the year – maybe a delicate blossom, caught gently floating in the spring breeze or the crisp, white snow-dusted mountains that form a backdrop to the manufacturer’s ateliers.

Aside from capturing these natural phenomena, the collection is also home to sportier timepieces and travel companions. In fact, the SBGC251 is a combination of both. Its chronograph functions meld with a GMT complication to provide you with a tool that can be worn at the gym, in the office, or when traveling on business.

The launch of the Evolution 9 Series a few years ago signified characteristics like a curved case, a more robust bracelet, and wider lugs. The brand also decided to make the hands of these watches bolder for greater legibility at night and even created a new font for the numerals on the bezel. All watches within this collection represent an updated version of the familiar Grand Seiko DNA and take inspiration from the original 44GS series.

The SBGC251 Takes Inspirational Cues from the 44GS

The 44GS is the model responsible for shaping the quintessential “Grand Seiko Style” and marked a pivotal point for the brand in terms of its approach to design.

The story goes a little like this. Before the birth of the 44GS watches in 1967, every Grand Seiko watch looked different from the next. While this lack of consistency wasn’t exactly a problem, what the brand wanted to achieve was a watch with a distinctive identity. Grand Seiko wanted to be recognized for an identifiable design language. A young designer had the answer to this.

Taro Tanaka established a new standard for aesthetics that would run through the core of the brand’s catalog like strands of DNA. The criteria gave each watch an instantly recognizable look and a set of features that could be mistaken for no other watch on the market. This grammar of design was known as the “Grand Seiko Style” AKA the 44GS.

The 44GS took its name from the 44GS Calibre, or the 4420 to be more precise. Having led a very successful 50-year run, the design aesthetics that define this look are still as important to Grand Seiko collectors and the brand itself today.

In fact, you could say it has influenced pretty much every Grand Seiko watch released ever since. The 44GS introduced geometric elements, flat surfaces, angles enhanced by meticulous case finishes, sharp flanks, and geometric silhouettes. Intrigued? We’re going to look at some examples of these design elements in this review of the Grand Seiko SBGC251.

The Case

I mentioned earlier that the Evolution 9 Series, of which the SBGC251 belongs, is inspired by the 44GS and examples of this can be appreciated as you peel back the layers of this design and uncover its hidden details. Uniquely, the Grand Seiko Style can be recognized for its two-dimensional curves and flat surfaces that make up the distortion-free case, lugs, bezel, and case sides of the reference SBGC251.

Tanaka clearly took a bold step away from the conventional rounded case when developing this set of criteria. Instead, he focussed on inward and outward angles to define the Grand Seiko case and bezel that we have all come to know and love today.

I think these small details are the most important overall. The angles of the case, bezel, and lugs reflect the light in so many different ways on the wrist. In a way, they kind of act as a metaphor for Grand Seiko’s multifaceted skills in craftsmanship. The beautifully carved elements follow through into the hands and hour markers of the dial, perpetuating the brand’s pursuit of perfection.

Now, make no mistake, this is a large watch. Its 45mm case is crafted from high-intensity titanium – a material that is interchangeable with grade 5 titanium. It sits at a depth of 16.3mm, and from lug tip to lug tip, it measures 52.3mm. There are several 44GS styling elements seen throughout the case. The pointed multi-faceted lug ends with both satin and polished finishes are one example. The polished parts feature the optically smooth mirror finish that is known as Zaratsu polishing.

Earlier, I spoke a little about the period before Tanaka birthed the idea of the Grand Seiko Style. The Japanese brand had already won several awards for precision by the 1960s, but the identity of a Grand Seiko watch case had not yet been established, and this is really where the Zaratsu polishing technique came into play. Tanaka realized very quickly that while Grand Seiko watches were perfect as an individual design, they needed an identity and more brilliance.

Many prototypes were created before reaching the distortion-free, brilliant mirrored finish we all come to associate with the brand today. Zaratsu polishing was the solution to achieving a perfectly flat surface.

Buffing simply wasn’t enough since it softened the angles that technicians had worked so hard to create. Zaratsu was the missing ingredient in the Grand Seiko recipe. The technique follows the rough buffing and sanding process after a case is carved and sculpted, not to mention stamped with several hundred tonnes of force – a process that requires an expert skill level.

Zaratsu takes the name of a European company that created a special machine by which the case of a watch is polished to an incredibly high standard. The flat surfaces of a case can be polished using this machine by holding it up to the wheel rather than at the side.

The rotating metal wheel is capped with sandpaper and requires a steady hand and keen eye to achieve its special surface finish. The smallest change in pressure by the hand of the craftsman can change the outcome of the case drastically. Thus, the process requires a significant level of intuition. The process is completed with a final buff, again dependent on the craftsman’s sense of touch.

The case of the Grand Seiko SBGC251 is 100-meter water resistant and is upheld by the help of a Grand Seiko-stamped screw-down crown at 3 o’clock. The crown is executed in a mix of polished and blasted finishes, similar to the buckle logo, while the bezel is sharply knurled to provide an easy grip under the fingertips. This is one of my favorite features in a Grand Seiko watch.

The finish on the bezel knurling is where you can really appreciate the level of detail in a watch like this, priced at just under the $12k mark. The bezel glides beautifully under a Teflon undercoating, while the top is executed in glossy black color, capped with sapphire glass for a more refined finish. This GMT 24-hour bezel can be used in conjunction with the blue GMT hand to track a third time zone, providing a very handy feature for those having to gauge time zones for business purposes.

The Dial

The hands and hour markers on the dial of the Grand Seiko SBGC251 shine like a diamond. They enhance legibility to no end. Compare this to a simple handset from a Tissot, for example, and the difference is noticeable. The sharp, angular sword-shaped hands entice light to play along their edges while at the same time utilizing flat surfaces for maximum impact. Grand Seiko has done well in creating a highly legible dial by night, too.

The application of the luminous material on the hands and hour markers can’t be faulted. The pill-shaped hour markers illuminate in a rich green glow, as do the main hands, while the triangular tip on the GMT hand and the 24-hour bezel boast a vibrant blue emission.

The constant seconds on the left side of this handcrafted dial is accompanied by a 30-minute chronograph sub-dial at 1:30, chronograph hours counter at 4:30, and a handy power reserve indicator nestled between 7 and 8 o’clock.

In other Grand Seiko reviews, we’ve talked about the appeal of the power reserve indicator and the brand’s decision to relocate it to the back of the case in some of the company’s Seasons Collection watches, like the White Birch. I feel that this design looks in proportion to the rest of the dial. I love the unconventional location of the sub-dials in this watch. They’re not only quirky but give the dial a technical look too.

The Movement

It is the movement of this Grand Seiko watch that fascinates me. For its price point, it offers great visual depth through a see-through caseback. You can quite easily become entranced with the Spring Drive movement and its level of finishing. It’s incredibly impressive. Grand Seiko’s technology is nothing short of beautiful.

The Calibre 9R36 is one of the world’s most accurate chronographs. With the ability to measure elapsed time to the nearest fraction of a second, this Grand Seiko chronograph is perfect for calculating speed and distance. It promises an accuracy of +15 seconds a month, or -1 second a day, and comprises 50 jewels for a smooth performance.

The Spring Drive movement works with the use of the Tri-synchro regulator and a thermo-compensator to check for temperature fluctuations throughout the day. A quartz crystal regulates an electromagnetic braking system, combining mechanical and quartz-powered benefits in one design. The Spring Drive Calibre 9R36 inside the SBGC251 watch offers a power reserve of 72 hours and is what gives the seconds hand an effortless gliding motion.

The Strap

The lug width of the Grand Seiko SBGC251 measures 23mm, and the bracelet is crafted from the same high-intensity titanium as seen on the case. If you take a closer look at the shoulders of the links, you’ll see a nice, polished finish, which I think is what elevates the timepiece to a dressier aesthetic so perfectly.

The top of the links boasts a satin effect for added contrast against the polished edges, while pins and sleeves are used for the construction of the bracelet. It’s what we tend to see in all titanium bracelets made by Grand Seiko. Several holes are drilled in pairs on the clasp to offer anchoring points for re-sizing.

The titanium buckle has a single-fold design with a twin-trigger release mechanism. The logo is also done very tastefully on the buckle. It’s a nice mix of polished and sandblasted finishes, which I feel enable it to stand out crisply. The lugs of the case have strap tool holes, which easily dismount the strap or bracelet when using a strap tool.

Generally speaking, these are rare in watches within this price bracket on the Swiss market. The fact that Grand Seiko makes strap changes so simple and easy is an added bonus. You can change the aesthetic of the reference SBGC251 simply by changing the band, depending on whether you want something sporty, classic, or dressy. I love this about Grand Seiko watches. A watch that easily transforms with a quick strap change is surely great value for money, right?

How It Wears

The SBGC251 measures a broad 45mm diameter, and while the lightweight titanium material of the case compensates for its heftiness, it is still a large watch. If your wrist measures 6.25 inches, you may struggle to carry this watch off aesthetically. Larger than 6.25-inch wrists, however, shouldn’t have too much of a problem. If you love the watch but you’re unsure whether your wrist can pull it off, you’d be better off switching out its titanium bracelet for a leather band.

The watch carries some thickness too, so it won’t easily slip under every cuff. Worn with a jacket, however, this Grand Seiko watch really comes into its own. In fact, I’d go as far as to say the watch was made for the jacket-wearing type of collector. Does it look good with a leather jacket? It certainly does. A bomber jacket? Absolutely.

That said, you can easily go more casual with this Grand Seiko watch too. The black dial and baby blue GMT hand lend themselves to a very versatile wardrobe. On the whole, this is an aggressive, sporty model with multifunctional uses, so it makes sense that Grand Seiko made it versatile enough to wear in different attires.

A thinner case would make this watch fit a little better, but all in all, there is plenty to love about this watch and very little to nitpick at. So long as you have the wrist size to carry it, this Grand Seiko watch is ergonomically designed for comfort, style, and functionality. It’s the kind of watch I would easily place inside the “wear-it-till-you’re-dead” bracket, and that’s mainly due to its classic black design, useful complications, and lightweight construction.

The Price

While for many, a Rolex is the ultimate grail and is considered by many as one of life’s greatest accomplishments, Grand Seiko offers something that a Rolex simply cannot – affordability. The SBGC251 is priced at $11,400 at Exquisite Timepieces and gives you plenty of bang for your buck.

Not only does the watch offer an in-house movement and a multi-complication design (a combined GMT function and chronograph dial), but its Zaratsu case polishing is a genuine handcraft that takes years to master and hours to complete. You’d struggle to find a watch with a similar level of hand-applied execution as this for the same price point.

Conclusion

The familiar design language of the Evolution 9 Series by Grand Seiko is something that can either be amped up or diluted down depending on the design. The sculpted nature of the watch really impresses me, and it’s something that I’ll always remember about the design, having had some hands-on time with it. Sure, the watch certainly wasn’t made for my female wrist.

But I can certainly appreciate the kind of “wear it ‘til the end” design that a sports watch collector may be looking for. The GMT function is going to come in handy whether you travel frequently or just want to track friends and family in another time zone and want to schedule a quick phone call.

I very easily (and quite quickly) grew a fondness and respect for the SGBC251. As so often is the case, I barely realize I have, until the time comes to hand it back over. Though I can’t carry its proportions on my wrist, it offers everything a male collector needs in a daily beater. Functionality, reliability, and style.

It’s the kind of watch that you could easily forget you’re wearing but in a good way. At the same time, it’s still an interesting enough design to keep one’s watch enthusiasm alive. You can check it out in some more detail here at Exquisite Timepieces.

An In-Depth Review of the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGJ239

Posted on September 18, 2024October 25, 2024 by Nina S

The Grand Seiko SBGJ239 came to us in the same year as COVID-19. Picture it, in the height of all that uncertainty and disruption to daily life, one thing remained a given for the watch-collecting community – people still loved watches. In fact, collectors were buying more of them than ever before. They suddenly found themselves with more time on their hands, fewer travel expenses, and more opportunities to expand their luxury watch collection.

One watch that aficionados weren’t having to grapple with their conscience over was the SBGJ239. It was a sleek, glossy GMT that could quite easily double up as a casual-come-sporty dress watch. Ok, so maybe those investing in it weren’t too concerned about what social outing they could wear it to first. Nor were they considering where they’d take it on their travels. The world was a different place at that moment, after all. Did this stop the Seiko Sport GMT watch from making many people happy that year? No, it did not. And the same can still be said today. It’s still a green GMT on a leather strap. It’s still ultra-reliable, impressively robust, and very accurate. It’s still beautiful.

Join me as I cover an in-depth view of the SBGJ239, which currently retails for $6,600 at Exquisite Timepieces.

History and Highlights of the Seiko Sport

Before we go into any great detail reviewing this classic-looking Seiko Sport GMT Green watch, let’s take a brief look at Grand Seiko’s history. The origins of the company will put some meat on the bones of the SBGJ239’s design and serve you with some background and depth in understanding its influence on the travel watch genre. The SBGJ239 is a functional, practical all-rounder. The travel tool carries some important GS hallmarks but has also been serving as a benchmark for other manufacturers to take inspiration from since 2020. The tales of the Japanese watchmaker’s legacy and craftsmanship are intricately interwoven into its fabric. Each model may offer a set of unique features, yet all are instantly identifiable as a Grand Seiko.

The history of Grand Seiko spans all the way back to 1881 when Kintaro Hattori founded Seikosha – a clock and watchmaking business that grew from a small repair workshop in Tokyo. But it was always Hattori’s ambition to create a series of watches that were altogether more refined, high-end, and exquisite. The Grand Seiko series launched in 1960, following Seiko’s global success for over 6 decades. It captured the essence of horological perfection, both in design, style, and mechanical performance. The first watch came with a 45-hour power reserve, a hacking mechanism, and a two-phase regulator mechanism. Together, these features astounded collectors, representing next-level craftsmanship and raising the bar for global competition.

The second generation of the Grand Seiko was the date-setter, and boy, did that give collectors a glimpse into what was to come. Its manual movement was the most accurate in the world. GS then ventured into quartz movements throughout the 1980s, followed by focussing its efforts on the Spring Drive movements during the 80s and 90s. Little did Grand Seiko experts know it would take two decades to perfect this horological innovation. Was it worth the wait? Definitely so. The groundbreaking feat paved the way for the Hi-Beat, which now powers watches like the SBGJ239.

In 2017, the brand became a fully-fledged independent brand, and with that came a fleet of beautifully crafted timepieces designed in line with the company’s Evolution 9 concept. Some of these include the famous “Snowflake”, the “Omiwatari”, the “White Birch”, and the “Annual Rings” models. Some of these examples showcase exquisite dial textures that evoke the beauty of nature and the transitioning seasons of the year.

A Review of the Seiko SBGJ239

The Grand Seiko SBGJ239 belongs to the company’s Sports watch collection. Of course, being a sports watch, it delivers qualities of robustness, legibility, and accuracy by the bucketload. This collection is abundant in dive watches, GMTs, and chronographs. Amongst the collection are references like the SBGA461 dive watch, with a solid 44.2mm steel case, a black dial, a matching black bezel, and a Spring Drive movement. Also, the reference SBGH289, which was a little smaller in size and powered by an automatic movement.

GMT watches by Grand Seiko, however, are some of the most enticing options within the brand’s Sport watch category. They appeal to those who travel frequently, as well as those who just love the style and the complications. Many of the models from this sector are powered by a standard automatic movement, but in 2021, Grand Seiko released a 55th-anniversary edition, complete with a Hi-Beat 36,000 movement. In addition to this white-dialed titanium version, GS also released a non-Hi-Beat version measuring 40.5mm with a blue sunburst dial and red GMT hand for enhanced legibility.

Then came the ref SBGJ247, with a stunning sunburst green dial, followed by a watch similar to the one I’m reviewing today. The ref SBGJ237 is a 44.5mm steel model with a 55-hour power reserve, a 24-hour scale, a deep blue dial, a white bezel, and a five-link stainless steel bracelet. Aside from a few differences in the color choice of the bezel, dial, and hands, this reference and the SBGJ239 are almost identical. The watch we’re looking at today, however, comes fitted on a stylish brown alligator leather band, giving it a traditional and classic feel.

The Case

The Grand Seiko Hi-beat GMT SBGJ239 is 44.2mm in diameter and boasts a hand-finished stainless steel case. The finely polished highlights offer a smooth and clean finish and are courtesy of the brand’s distinctive Zaratsu polishing technique. The case is 14.6mm thick, and lug to lug, the watch measures 50.8mm. The spacing between the lugs is 21mm.

Artisans at GS hold the case of the watch against a spinning tin plate so that it is milled to perfection. It achieves this beautiful execution which takes around three years to master. You can see in the finish of the SBGJ239’s case that this high polish gives the watch a refined and elevated execution. This is an optically smooth, mirror-like finish that accentuates the complex curvature of the case. The swell that occurs mid-case on this watch is what gives it a voluptuous and full-bodied profile. The watch also benefits from a transitional bezel that brings an added dimension to the case. The tapering lugs are a touch I really like. They bring the case into more manageable proportions. Satin finishes also give the watch some nice contrast.

I have to talk about the 72-click bezel of this watch because it’s unlike anything else in the brand’s catalog. Polished on top but satin finished on the sides, it boasts a striking two-tone 24-hour scale, capped with sapphire crystal that shields it from impact, along with a polished steel trim. The sapphire surface is what gives this watch a truly mesmerizing glossy sheen, which almost makes it perfect for doubling up as a dress watch. The watch is also 200-meter water resistant, not to mention resistant to magnetic forces up to 4,800 A/m.

The Dial

The dial of the Grand Seiko SBGJ239 is one of its most appealing characteristics. It’s a deep forest green color that sometimes looks moss-like in certain lights. In the usual Grand Seiko style, the central hour and minute hands, along with the hour markers and date frame, are all micro-finished by diamond-tipped milling tools to give them a crisp, razor-shape finish. They boast a combination of polished and satin finishes, communicating that all-important artisanal finish that GS is so well-known for.

I particularly love these elevated finishes. They are clean and sharp, enabling the key features to stand out with legibility. One of the nicest features of this sports watch is the 10-beat second hand. Similar to the alluring sweeping second hand of the Spring Drive movement, it also travels across the dial in a smooth and flowing motion. Made up of many little steps, you can barely see any jolting with the naked eye. The date features at 4 o’clock. Adjustments can be made to it very easily via the crown without affecting the running time. This is genius craftsmanship for Grand Seiko, who clearly understands the importance of this feature when traveling.

The red GMT hand also stands out with legibility, reading from a 24-hour scale on the bezel. Other finishing touches include the Grand Seiko lettering and logo at 12 o’clock and the red lettering of the GMT reference above 6 o’clock.

The Movement

The Grand Seiko SBGJ239 is powered by a Hi-Beat movement, which promises exceptional accuracy and efficiency. Its design and arrangement build on the foundations of the first Hi-Beat movement launched many years ago. Let’s take a brief look at the history of the Hi-Beat.

Grand Seiko’s expertise in manufacturing the Hi-Beat movement harks all the way back to the 1960s. In 1968, the brand released the Calibre 6145. This was the birth of the first Hi-Beat movement, delivering better efficiency and accuracy. Part of that was down to the oscillating weight, which Grand Seiko specialists equipped with the “Magic Lever” system – a proprietary winding mechanism with a pawl winding system that had been produced a few years earlier. The movement was implemented into the design of the Grand Seiko 61GS – a flagship model that lasted 7 years in production and came in many variations. The principles of the design, however, were shared throughout the series, with either a date or day-date display at 3 o’clock, a distinctive tonneau-shaped case made from steel, gold-capped steel, or 18k gold, and a 3 o’clock crown. The watch was even chosen for the Osaka Time Capsule Expo a couple of years after its release.

Next came the Calibre 6185, another Hi-Beat movement with a +1 minute accuracy per month, a horological feat that was later dubbed the “Grand Seiko V.F.A. Standard”. For the record, it was already exceeding chronometer certification at this point. To reach this standard, specialists at Grand Seiko were subjecting the watches to rigorous tests over 6 positions (rather than the standard 5) and were conducting these tests over 15 days to meet a criteria of +2 seconds a day. Two years later, the company launched a new version of the movement, complete with a day-date complication.

While all this was happening, however, Grand Seiko was busying itself creating the 45GS watch, also powered by the 10-Beat (Hi-Beat) movement. This time, the movement was much thinner, featuring a manual winding mechanism. The Caliber 4522 had a calendar display with an instant date, while the Caliber 4520 was a time-only version. The 45GS had an accuracy of 1+ minutes per month, making it a groundbreaking revelation for its time.

But what is it about the Magic Lever that makes the Hi-Beat movement so efficient, you ask? Well, put simply, the 1959 Magic Lever system improves winding system efficiency by shortening the winding period and also increasing the power reserve. With a Magic Lever system, the ratchet wheel rotates in any desired direction no matter which way the oscillating weight is turned, thus greater energy saving is achieved.

The SBGJ239 watch is powered by the modern Calibre 9S86, which delivers an accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds a day. Its accuracy is integral to the GMT watch’s design, ensuring that when you track this watch in another country, home time and local time run synonymously alongside one another. The Calibre 9S86 operates as a true GMT or a “traveler” GMT watch, enabling you to pull the crown out to the first position and change the hour hand while you’re on the go. It’s the most efficient variant of the GMT since you can quickly switch the main hands to your current local time easily without disrupting the GMT hand.

The Hi-Beat 36000 is the movement responsible for this. It performs at a staggering frequency of 36,000 oscillations per hour, which is equivalent to 10 beats per second (hence the 10-Beat nickname). On top of that, it also gives you a solid 55-hour power reserve for weekends when you might want to alternate it with another favorite.

The Strap

It’s worth mentioning that the brown alligator leather strap of the GS SBGJ239 watch is a little squeaky and will likely take some time to break in, but I don’t mind that. I’ve always said that so long as the leather band on a watch is of good quality, waiting for the leather strap to break in is a small and very insignificant compromise. Sure, you may be aware of the watch’s presence on your wrist for a few weeks. Once the leather becomes more supple, however, and starts to curve to the natural contours of the wrist, this watch should sit like a dream, and you’ll barely remember you’re wearing it. Again, the classic leather band option is less dressy and less sporty than a steel bracelet but I like that it constitutes a more relaxed option for pairing with weekend attire should you want to.

The lug-width is 21mm, so it’s not the most common of sizes to find configurations for. That said, I have a feeling you’ll be happy to settle with the original band for quite some time. The strap comes with a beautifully refined three-fold clasp made from stainless steel and is engraved with the iconic Grand Seiko logo. I also like how the push button release mechanism is butter-smooth to operate under the fingertips. It’s one less thing to have to fuss over when you want to make a quick watch swap. The brown alligator leather strap, with a smooth calfskin lining, also has lovely tone-on-tone stitching in a matching chocolate brown color, which I think complements the green nuances of the dial really nicely.

How It Wears

Here’s one of the most important parts of the review to cover. It’s great when a watch ticks all the boxes on paper, but understanding how this watch wears on the wrist is equally as important. Let me start by saying this watch (though it’s a broad and confident size on top) wears smaller than you think. That’s all because of how Grand Seiko has developed this case. If you view the watch laterally, you can see a significant difference between the top and bottom of the case structure. The case of the SBGJ239 bellies out with a sloped case design.

If you have a 6-7 inch wrist, you’re probably going to be maxed out with this watch, though it won’t look out of place by any means. Because of its depth, you might struggle to fit this watch under a shirt sleeve, but, as I said earlier, this watch sits somewhere between a dress watch and a sports watch, so you wouldn’t necessarily be looking to pair this watch with elegant attire on a daily basis.

Pricing:

For an in-house movement (not to mention a Hi-Beat), a hand-finished case, a flawlessly operating GMT function, and quality materials like a leather strap and sapphire crystal – the SBGJ239 is an absolute steal at $6,600. If you want to enquire about the availability of this watch and you’re ready to place an order, don’t forget to drop us a message here at Exquisite Timepieces.

The Takeaway

There are many things to love about the Grand Seiko SBGJ239. Considering the watch has been out since 2020, no model has ever really superseded it on a like-for-like level. The watch boasts a selection of superior materials, a legible GMT function, and a striking two-tone bezel for optimal efficiency.

This is a GMT function that proves incredibly useful for hopping from time zone to time zone, whether that be for business or leisure. GS manages to balance sporty elegance with some really nice dress-like features, making for a timepiece that you can wear pretty much every day, regardless of the different situations you may encounter.

This is a bold watch with an equally bold personality, and I love the use of the deep subdued green dial, paired with the striking red of the GMT hand. Without a doubt, this watch can go from a formal meeting to drinks at the bar without looking out of place, and that’s what a lot of Grand Seiko watches are good for. They make great travel partners, sophisticated business partners, and elegant companions all wrapped into one.

Review of the Grand Seiko “Annual Rings” Limited Edition Ref. SLGA008 Watch

Grand Seiko SLGA008 Review: Checking out the “Annual Rings”

Posted on September 18, 2024December 8, 2024 by Nina S

The Grand Seiko SLGA008 “Annual Rings” watch is a 140th-anniversary limited edition Spring-Drive-powered collectible and one of my absolute favorites. Read on to see why I love this watch so much and how the evolution of Grand Seiko as a brand has influenced its flawless design.

It is true that some of the most beautiful things in life come in small doses, and the Grand Seiko Spring Drive “Annual Rings” SLGA008 watch is the perfect example of one of them. Just 140 models of this kind were released back in December 2021, celebrating 140 years of the Seiko Watch Corporation.

For those of you who don’t know, Grand Seiko belonged to Seiko before becoming completely independent in 2017. The move made perfect sense since GS has always been distinct in its design language, its characteristics, and its presentation.

Becoming an entity of its own enabled the brand to pitch itself much higher than Seiko in the market. It paved the way for watches like the “Annual Rings” anniversary watch, complete with a dial that carefully balances light and dark nuances across yet another nature-inspired dial.

As with any Grand Seiko watch from the popular Evolution 9 series, there’s a lot to unpack. But to appreciate the watch that honors the heritage of this Japanese brand in more ways than one, we must step back to the very beginning.

The Foundations of Grand Seiko

Grand Seiko “Annual Rings” Limited Edition

When you think about it, Grand Seiko is a relatively young brand. Some of the most prestigious names in the industry have been around for over 200 years. Take, for example, Blancpain, which was founded in 1735. The company is still in operation and remains the oldest registered watchmaker in history, closely followed by Vacheron Constantin, of course.

The Geneva watchmaker has a tapestry of beautiful instruments under its belt, including the Overseas and the Traditionelle, and belongs to the “Holy Trinity” of Haute Horlogerie alongside Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. And how about Breguet? The Maison can lay claim to the first wrist-worn watch, commissioned by the Queen of Naples back in 1810.

Looking at some of the oldest watchmakers in the world, their stories derive from innovations like the pocket watch. Not Grand Seiko, though. The Japanese brand originates from a country steeped in watchmaking history but one where traditions merge with futuristic revelations like the quartz movement and the Spring Drive (I’ll get to that bit shortly). Grand Seiko’s story is a relentless pursuit of excellence and innovation, and a huge part of appreciating models like the GS SLGA008 requires a look at the company’s evolution and how its impeccable Spring Drive came to be.

The roots of Grand Seiko stem from the district of Ginza in Tokyo, where Kintarō Hattori founded Seiko in 1881. By the 1950s, Seiko was making huge waves internationally. And while the brand became a go-to for affordable and highly accurate wristwatches during the 1960s, Seiko had other bold ambitions. It wanted to create something altogether more refined and exquisite. A series that would come to define the pinnacle of Japanese watchmaking.

Grand Seiko arrived and captured the essence of horological perfection. Its liberating designs showed the world it was here to lead, not to follow. The company’s birth in 1960 spawned the Hi-Beat movements, promising greater accuracy with a performance of 10 beats per second. But that was not the end of the brand’s horological endeavors. In fact, it was just the beginning…

The Grand Seiko Quartz Astron exemplified a new-found efficiency in timekeeping in 1969. It was the first watch in history to be powered by a quartz movement. The Caliber 35A differed drastically from the mechanical movement, requiring the use of a small electrical charge generated by a battery as opposed to a coiled mainspring.

The vibrational frequency of the quartz crystal that received this battery’s charge, so profound, superseded that of the mechanical oscillator, vibrating at a frequency of 32,768 times per second as opposed to a mechanical’s 3 or 4 times per second. The efficiency of the quartz movement soon took off, sending many traditional Swiss manufacturers into turmoil. Many succumbed to the crushing effect of the crises, with quartz not only proving cheaper and faster to produce but also more accurate.

The Pathway to the Spring Drive

The Spring Drive movement by Grand Seiko features many covetable timepieces in the brand’s catalog today. Some examples include the “Omiwatari”, inspired by the snow-dusted landscape surrounding the company’s watchmaking facilities, and the frozen lake phenomenon across Lake Suwa near Shiojiri. Also, the “White Birch” watch is influenced by the birch highland forests that surround the Grand Seiko studios. The movement is also featured in the SLGA008 “Annual Rings” watch.

The origins of the Spring Drive were in the making long before these models arrived, however. Work started on the innovations at Seiko back in 1977, which, for me, is what makes the movement so special. This was no flippant overnight “fad”. Seiko specialists wanted this movement to be the ultimate benchmark setter in precision and efficiency for years to come.

It was neither mechanical nor quartz but a masterful blend of both. This fusion of mechanical and quartz engineering played an integral role in modern watchmaking. Pretty soon, Grand Seiko’s signature sweeping second hand became a fascination for collectors. It took more than 15 years to perfect the movement, and it was 2004, by the time the first GS watch came outfitted with one.

The Grand Seiko movement uses the “Tri-Synchro Regulator” to control the mainspring as it unwinds and converts this energy into electricity. The electricity then powers a quartz oscillator. All the while, the smooth continuous gliding motion of the graceful second hand across the dial is all that the wearer sees – a harmonious blend of innovation and tradition.

Since its birth, the Spring Drive movement has become a philosophical statement of excellence and a standard by which many other rival companies can only aspire to achieve.

A Review of the Grand Seiko SLGA008 “Annual Rings”

Personally, I feel like the SLGA008 has a lot to offer the modern watch enthusiast. As with all Grand Seiko watches, the case finishes, execution of the movement, and meticulously crafted dial are all next level. It doesn’t mean to say that every GS watch is met with such resounding success. In the past, the company has been accused of creating boring designs that don’t stand out enough.

But I can’t quite see how anyone with a penchant for collecting quality wristwatches could look at a Grand Seiko design and feel that it looked similar to anything else on the market. These are not boring designs. As is always the case, the beauty is in the finer details – details that only a true connoisseur can appreciate once they look beyond its face value to see where its true ingenuity lies.

The Case

In terms of wearability, I’d say that the GS ref. SLGA008 watch wearers pretty well. This is a 40mm watch with a lug-to-lug measurement of 47mm, which is an important part of its dimensions. This is a nice fit for a 6-6.5 inch wrist and wears smaller than its spec list would suggest.

The lug-to-lug measurement, although it sounds quite large on paper, is relatively understated on the wrist thanks to the warm tones of the 18k rose gold case and the chocolate brown tones of both the dial and the alligator leather strap.

You have to appreciate that at 47mm, this measurement enables a 40mm watch case to become an accessible option for those with slenderer wrists without testing the edges. Other dimensions include a 12.5mm case depth and a strap width of 22mm.

Now, anyone who collects Grand Seiko watches will tell you that the brand excels in the field of case execution. Its Zaratsu polishing technique is second to none and exclusive to Grand Seiko watches. It’s what elevates these dress watches to the high-end, respectable, and refined timepieces that they are.

While this is not the most affordable of GS watches (being a limited edition model and a solid gold one at that), the brand does execute all of its cases to the same standard, incorporating the same level of attention to detail in each one. This is just an example of standard practice that the brand willingly offers its audience, constituting great value for money.

Let’s be fair, these are not the most expensive watches out there, but high-grade finishes on a case like this certainly make them feel like they are.

The SLGA008 is abundant in these high-end finishes. For example, I really like the way the sides of the bezel are polished, yet the top of the bezel is adorned with a vertical brushed finish. It adds depth and dimension to the design, rather than the dial itself holding all the detail.

The brushed bezel is an unusual look in a dress watch, especially since a polishing technique is often used to enhance that all-important high-end feel of an elegant timepiece. Other features of the SLGA008 include a 100-meter water resistance and a large prominent crown at 3 o’clock, engraved with the GS logo and finished with a grooved surface to aid grip.

The Dial

I’d be lying if I said the dial of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive “Annual Rings” SLGA008 watch wasn’t the star of the show. It clearly acts as the portal through which the brand’s artistic flair is expressed. As I mentioned earlier, the watch belongs to the Evolution 9 series, which is no stranger to avant-garde innovations.

These designs impart the brand’s reverence for nature and Japan’s ephemeral beauty. Whether a crisp snow-covered landscape, a frozen lake phenomenon, a petal from a native flower, or the drifting cherry blossoms of springtime – all Evolution 9 Series watches have their own story to tell. The collection has been going strong since 2020, incorporating the brand’s values known as “Takumi”.

For those innovating these masterpieces at the GS design studios, the spiritual ideals of “Takumi” are a way of life. They are the company’s values, passed down from one generation to another. Part of that concept underpins the time-honored techniques mastered by the craftsmen to achieve these textured dials.

The dial of the SLGA008 is a rich chocolate brown color, which pairs beautifully with the rose gold elements chosen to echo the material of the case. I love how the inviting gold-colored hour markers have been polished and faceted with precision. They enable light to catch them, enhancing their blush-pink tones against an indulgent brown backdrop. Underneath the 12 o’clock hour marker is the GS name and logo.

Even the central hour and minute hands have received a beautiful, faceted edge, which enables light to skim over them, creating reflections and shadows wherever possible. The sweeping second hand, a sure sign of that Spring Drive engine, travels over the brand logo effortlessly while protected beautifully under a dual-curved sapphire crystal.

What I like about this dial is that Grand Seiko experts have left it open to interpretation. While there is no denying that its texture beautifully captures the growth rings of an internal tree trunk, the shade of the dial is also reminiscent of coffee or delicious fondant icing on a chocolate cake.

Whatever this dial does for you, it certainly imparts that all-important sense of indulgence that the company is so revered for. The date window is also trimmed in a rose golden frame, which makes the numerals stand out with more assertiveness.

The Movement

As you’ll already know by now, the Grand Seiko SLGA008 uses the brand’s hybrid quartz-come-mechanical movement – the Spring Drive. The Caliber 9RA2 is an incredibly accurate movement (around half a second a day, to be precise). It belongs to the 9R series and follows on from its predecessor, the 2020 Caliber 9RA5. The 9RA2 was launched by Grand Seiko in 2021 and boasted an impressive 5-day power reserve.

Thanks to a repositioning of its Magic Lever system, it measures slimmer, while two barrels facilitate a power reserve of 120 hours. This is a great feature for those who have several timepieces that they like to rotate regularly.

Collectors often refer to watches with ample power reserve capabilities as “weekend-friendly” watches. It means that if you were to take the watch off after work on a Friday and alternate it with another favorite over the weekend, you could return to the watch on a Monday morning to find it had kept the perfect time for you.

Movements like this also come with an in-built temperature sensor that continually checks for temperature fluctuations while maintaining accuracy to within +/- 10 seconds per month.

If you followed my recent review of the “Omiwatari” watch, you’ll be aware that it shares many characteristics with the “Snowflake” watch, save for the power reserve indicator on the dial. For the “Omiwatari, GS specialists chose to relocate the power reserve indicator to the back of the case, donating more space and clarity to the watch’s beautifully textured dial.

The “Annual Rings” SLGA008 watch adopts this same design language. You can admire the power reserve indicator through the back of the case while also appreciating the harmonious performance of the Spring Drive in action.

However, if you were to admire the movement much closer through the watch’s sapphire exhibition window, there are even more exquisite details to fall in love with. Grand Seiko artisans execute the bridges and plates in a way that evokes Japan’s natural beauty, its landscape, and its climate. They feature a frosted effect that emulates the snow-covered forests of Shinshu. Similar to how the Zaratsu-polished edges and angles of a Grand Seiko case interact with light, the diamond-cut bridges are a particularly impressive element of the engine, as are the heat-tempered screws and power reserve indicator hand in blue. These are all really nice touches from Grand Seiko – reminders that these are no ordinary dress watches.

The Strap

I think the brown alligator leather strap pairs beautifully with the GS ref. SLGA008 watch’s dial. Quite honestly, I couldn’t imagine this watch on anything other than a brown leather strap or stainless steel bracelet. That said, there are smooth calf leather bands and ostrich leather straps you could outsource that would compliment the watch’s chocolatey brown tones.

If you want to opt for something different here, the key here is to find just the right strap color. You don’t want the beautiful nuances of the brown dial to be lost on a poorly matched band. For me, a classic brown leather strap is perfect on this watch. Grand Seiko pairs it with an 18k rose gold three-fold clasp engraved with the GS lettering and a push-button release mechanism.

The Pricing

The Grand Seiko SLGA008 currently retails for a little under $50k from authorized dealers like Exquisite Timepieces. As one of the most expensive Grand Seiko watches on the market, it begs the question, “Is it worth it?” I’d answer that question pretty simply, a Grand Seiko is worth whatever a collector is willing to pay for it.

The same goes for pretty much any watch, really. It may not be the rarest of Grand Seiko watches, but you do have to take into consideration that the timepiece is produced in a limited batch, so not everyone will own one. It’s also crafted from 18ct rose gold.

It’s impossible to underappreciate this watch if you’re a keen Grand Seiko fan. The quality of finishing in the case and the detailing of the dial are second to none. The details have a nice change of pace, and the different finishes are impressive, to say the least.

So, yes, this exclusive watch is worth the price to the right person, and the price simply becomes irrelevant if it’s what you want. Nevertheless, we certainly can’t ignore the fact that it’s one of the pricier models from Grand Seiko’s catalog.

The Takeaway

Grand Seiko arrived on the scene amidst a backdrop where Swiss craftsmanship was seen as the gold standard in accuracy and quality. It changed things up. The reference SLGA008 is just one of many examples of the brand’s pursuit of perfection, but it is one of the most beautiful collectibles to own.

This watch, along with so many other creations from the company’s “The Nature of Time” concept, captures a moment, transforming tangible, transient natural beauty into a piece of timekeeping art. Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 collection is home to models that are so much more than just luxury dress watches, and that’s what I love about the SLGA008.

And even beyond aesthetics, these watches are built from the ground up by specialist craftsmen who dedicate thousands of hours to the traditional techniques that define them. The Zaratsu polishing and wave-like dial effect, serving to capture the age rings on the internal trunk of a tree, are all favorite features of mine, and in a way, they personify the evolution of Grand Seiko itself.

Grand Seiko crafts watches like the SLGA008 in an imaginative way. More than anything else, though, it is the band’s solid and steadfast approach to watchmaking that keeps enthusiasts like me so engaged and longing for more.