Author: Lucas M

Taking inspiration from what the Grand Seiko logo embodies, the SGBC253 delivers a strong look from every angle. Boasting a Spring Drive Chronograph movement, the watch finds a fine balance between visual strength and elegance.

This can be seen in every detail, with some aspects of the watch design being much more prominent than others. Overall, Grand Seiko implemented design choices that stem from the well-known qualities of the lion and how they relate to the brand.

With a range of notable sport model features and a movement that’s just as elegant as the design, it isn’t hard to call this watch a one-of-a-kind. To really understand its unique beauty, you’ll have to look behind the surface details alone. 

This article aims to tell you everything you need to know about the Grand Seiko SBGC253 and what might make it a special addition to your collection.

One for the History Books

Following a similar iteration of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive Chronograph lineup, the SBGC253 still finds a way to stand out from the rest. The watch hit the market back in March of 2023, even though the lineup initially got started back in 2019.

It should also be noted that it doesn’t follow the several variants found in the Spring Drive Chronograph lineup. This makes it a luxury watch that’s unique to its own style but still carries many of the components that people love.

Wearers can enjoy the historical relevance of the lion-inspired design, as this is at the core of what the watchmaker’s name stands for. You can also find the SBGC253 labeled among GS’s sports collection, which is well-known by many.

Even if this particular watch is fairly new to the market, it stands tall as a signature piece from Grand Seiko. It’s also bound to hold strong value in the long term due to its signature take on design and style.

Starting With the Case

Built with durable and comfortable high-intensity titanium, you get a bold look that won’t weigh down your wrists. For more context, this would be about 30% lighter than a similar stainless steel case, so it’s definitely noticeable.

At a glance, the SBGC253 can have a rather imposing design, providing a rather bulky look for the most part. 

To me, this is more than fitting, considering the theme of the watch. I usually go for more subtle watches, but this is one that I feel is worth the sacrifice for my collection. To me, the dimensions seem relatively standard, featuring a 44.5mm diameter, 50mm lug to lug, and 16.8mm thickness.

Some might argue that wouldn’t work for them, but I don’t have any complaints, even with my skinny wrists. It’s important to note that the case size does a great job of complimenting the chronograph style of the watch. The dial alone gives the watch a strong look, which means the surrounding components should match.

A finer detail I really appreciate is their angular approach to the lugs. This is meant to resemble the lion’s claws, only further cementing the bold look of the watch design. In a similar fashion to many other GS timepieces, you get the perfect balance of Zaratsu polished and brushed surfaces.

I want to circle back to the somewhat angular design of the case, as this only enhances the polished and brushed surfaces. With a slight movement of the wrist, I find myself enamored with the reflective nature of the case and surrounding surfaces.

Don’t be fooled by the watch’s bezel, though, as its style and functionality don’t overlap here. I noticed that its style is like a rotating diver’s bezel, but this is just for show. 

The SBGC253’s bezel is actually fixed, but this doesn’t take away from its undeniable beauty. I feel this design choice is more than fitting for the chronograph look. In addition to that, the pump pushers and crown are quite bulky themselves, adding to the overall size of the case.

What really helps sell this watch for me is its exhibition case back. I never get tired of appreciating Grand Seiko’s in-house movement, and this watch lets you see the details in action. The case also promises 200m of water resistance, including differentiated lume colors for GMT and home time.

Dialing in on the Face

First, it’s important to highlight that the dial is more than just a glistening ivory-white colorway. Some might refer to the Tokyo Lion watch dial as a cream color, but the consensus is that it’s gorgeous. With a texture that’s inspired by the lion’s mane, it offers a bold look for the dial that’s clearly the star of the show.

Not only am I drawn to the style choice in the dial, but the surrounding elements really bring it to life for me. Looking back at Grand Seiko’s design choices, this particular pattern is referred to as the “Shunbun” pattern, reminiscent of the SBGA413. This focuses on keeping a refined and sophisticated look while embodying the symbolism behind the lion and GS name.

Wearers will enjoy the faceted hands on top of the wide and polished indices that are easy to spot. You’ll find a lume coating on the hands as well as the 6, 9, and 12 indices. I appreciate their choice of sharp edges on the hands. 

I feel it helps to open up the face of the watch without compromising on design elegance. Considering it’s a GMT watch, you also get the benefit of a 24-hour minute track.

After tinkering with the watch for a bit, I realized the sub-dials on this watch support the chronograph and running seconds functionality. I really love that the sub-dials have a texture of their own. It helps them stand out while still blending into that surrounding ivory color.

Believe it or not, Grand Seiko still found a way to fit in a framed date window and power reserve indicator with a little space left to spare. 

Sure, I can agree that it’s a pretty busy-looking dial. However, all of the functions and features mentioned so far make it a great watch for sports and travel lovers. 

I’m usually more of a fan of open-face watches that leave plenty of room for the pattern to shine through. This watch definitely has a lot more going on than what I’m used to, but I can’t ignore the beauty in design and engineering.

The In-House Movement

It’s easy to get lost in Grand Seiko’s movement technology, as they bring a lot to the table. Regarding the SBGC253, you have the Caliber 9R86 Spring Drive movement to look forward to. It combines reliable mechanical engineering with quartz accuracy, on top of impressive and consistent accuracy.

The specs show an accuracy of ±15 seconds per month (±1 seconds per day). It’s built with a standard 3-day power reserve, and I’m particularly attracted to the 50 included jewels in its design. Beautiful to look at, to say the least, this in-house GS movement promises precise chronograph functionality.

Enhanced with the help of a column wheel and vertical clutch system, this helps to prevent an unwanted “jump” from the seconds hand when activated. This isn’t a detail I expected on the surface, and it only made me more interested in diving into the components. 

Wearers can also make use of a quick adjustment function for the hour hand, which makes switching between time zones even less of a hassle.

I know this is a bit more specific, but you don’t want to ignore the magnetism resistance, either. Magnetic fields from electronics or phone cases, for example, won’t affect the accuracy of this watch.

It’s pretty clear that Grand Seiko thought of the finer details, as they always do. Another reason I keep returning to dive into research on what’s new in the market. Overall, the movement offers more than just precision; it promises ease of use and an error-free design in functionality.

The Titanium Strap

As you might expect, the strap delivers an equally robust look compared to the rest of the watch. I’m easily sold on a high-intensity titanium bracelet. I love that they’re more lightweight, and you’ll never have a problem with how they look. The polishing blends right into the case, delivering uniformity on all sides.

It dons an H-link design, which isn’t always the standard, but a minor detail I really appreciate here. The twin-trigger foldover clasp also includes three micro-adjustments, more than enough to get the feeling I want around my wrists.

I want to make sure to mention this also comes with a diver’s extension and overall leads to a very easy experience when making adjustments. While some people may have preferences regarding push-pin adjustments, this is pretty standard with many GS titanium watch bands.

The drilled lugs allow for strap changes, but you might find suitable options to be limited considering the unique look of the SBGC253. I’m personally not a huge fan of the lug width, as it’s set at 23mm here. However, I don’t really plan on swapping the stock bracelet, as it’s more than fitting from my perspective.

My On-Wrist Experience

Aside from all of the details in the mechanics and design, it’s always crucial to understand what it’s like to wear. Taking its popularity into account, you might not get a chance to wear it before you start looking for a place to purchase. Take it from me: the size of this watch shouldn’t weigh too much into your decision-making.

It’s definitely on the larger side compared to others in my collection, but it isn’t jarring to the eye by any means. I’m confident most people would happily wear this watch in casual and professional settings, with the right outfits of course.

That’s the only caveat from my stance, which is that the ivory-white color won’t work with just any outfit. After spending some time with SBGC253, I found it works best as a point of contrast in my outfits. I like to wear it with darker colors, giving it a chance to really stand out from a distance. It isn’t distracting by any means, but I feel like it shouldn’t be hidden among brighter colors.

Once again, the titanium makes it great for all-day wear. I always like to mention my skinnier wrists, as this is a big factor in my decision-making regarding luxury watches. It’s important to me that my wrist won’t feel fatigued before the end of the day. The truth is, I barely notice the weight of this watch.

Moreover, I’d say the watch is more than wearable for 6.5” wrists but does its best around the 7.5” mark. Of course, adjustments can always be made to make it work for a variety of wrist sizes.

Most people wouldn’t argue with the beauty of this watch, but I can see how the boldness and color choice might be offputting for some. It’s definitely for individuals who don’t have any issue wearing a brighter watch. I’d like to lean into the fact that it isn’t overly flashy in any way, and you’d be surprised how well it blends in with different seasonal trends.

Pricing and Availability

Looking at the baseline pricing for a new Grand Seiko SBGC253, and you’re facing a $12,700 investment. Definitely on the higher end for newcomers, but it’s a timeless choice that’ll last generations nonetheless.

This price point comes from everything that goes into the design and engineering of this watch. It’s pretty feature-rich, and its functionality and style does a great job of speaking for itself. 

However, you can find varied pricing for a used SBGC253. The cost in this space could range anywhere from $7,500 to $10,000, depending on a variety of factors. Aside from the cost, where you get it from is just as important.

While there are plenty of retailers you could sort through all over the world, Exquisite Timepieces has everything you need in one place. This includes decades of industry experience and hands-on knowledge about Grand Seiko craftsmanship.

Don’t get me wrong, the price for this Grand Seiko is definitely on the higher side for me. Most of what’s in my collection is below the $10k mark, but I had to make an exception for this model. Not just because of what it looks like but also because of the thorough approach to functionality and what design choices stand for.

Final Thoughts

When you see Grand Seiko SBGC253, this identifier doesn’t really do the watch justice in what makes it special. Even though it’s a bit pricey for some, it’s at least worth consideration if you’re looking for something to appreciate in the long term.

If this article drummed up any questions or concerns about the SBGC253, don’t hesitate to reach out to us at Exquisite Timepieces. We have the watch you’re looking for and the expertise you need to navigate your decision-making with confidence.

In the world of luxury watchmaking, you’re going to encounter many different collections and designs. While new ideas land on the market, there’s a traditional passion in watchmaking that can be seen in many popular styles.

The divers watch is a great, long-standing example, as it offers a beautiful combination of functionality and style. In the beginning, divers watches were built to cater to those interested in underwater exploration. Hence, the name, a divers watch, is much more than just functionality, as it finds itself in the luxury category.

Even if you’ve never owned one, there’s a good chance a divers watch has caught your eye at some point in time. This article highlights the features that make a divers watch one of the most recognizable styles in watchmaking.

History of Divers Watches

There are varying unique characteristics that make a divers watch as we know it today. Without these details, then I’d say you wouldn’t be able to call it a divers watch. It includes much more detail than you might expect. 

Between the 1930s and 1950s, many advancements were seen in the look and capability of the divers watch. I have to give my thanks to Rolex, as they coined the beginnings of how the divers watch is used and worn today. 

It surprised me to learn that some of the earliest models would only function 30 to 70m underwater. There were a few limitations in the early days, but the style’s popularity continued to grow and evolve regardless.

Aside from their historical relevance, their characteristics are a crucial part of the watch’s look and use case. Keep in mind, since a divers watch is built to be used underwater, it won’t meet the same standards as many other types of watches.

Even if it’s obvious, I find it important to highlight that a divers watch will always come with a pretty impressive water resistance. Although 100-meter resistance is seen as a production standard, this is far from the limits of many divers watches.

The Key Features of Divers Watches

Other notable aspects of this type of watch include pressure durability, lumed markers, and personal favorites like corrosion resistance or a unidirectional bezel. The style of a divers watch requires a particular taste, but some of this can be overlooked due to functionality alone. 

Even though divers watches aren’t a big sell for me personally, I still appreciate their luxurious look. You’re likely to run into many varieties when it comes to the divers design. However, you should always keep an eye out for the key features every diver watch should bring to the table.

Water Resistance

At a glance, I can see why anyone would be enamored with the beauty of a divers watch. The only thing that bothers me sometimes is that many people completely ignore the watch’s functionality. You might not know that there are precision-engineered gaskets around the crown, case back, as well as the crystal for a reliable seal.

I always find it crucial to mention that water resistance doesn’t just relate to functionality in a divers watch. It’s part of engineering, materials, and compliance, which offers a stamp of approval and assurance.

Rotating Bezel

If you’re new to the world of watchmaking, it’s helpful to understand that the bezel is for more than just aesthetics. This is especially true when it comes to a rotating bezel. I’m not a diver myself, but I can appreciate the functionality that goes into the bezel of a diver watch.

The rotating bezel works to measure how long a diver has been underwater. Moreover, they can also rotate counterclockwise to avoid the risk of an accidental adjustment. Another detail I really love is that many rotating bezels are built with a unidirectional design. This ensures the bezel can’t be pushed in the wrong direction.

Part of what drives my interest in divers watches is that not all of their bezels are exactly the same. For example, I really appreciate rotating bezels that provide information on depth. Overall, the beauty, functionality, and fail-safes in many divers watches are part of what keeps me coming back for more. While functionality is really important here, many divers wouldn’t be able to use these watches if it weren’t for the added lume.

Lume

Considering the general low light conditions under the water, luminosity is a vital part of any divers watch. This can be seen in many unique designs, but they all serve the same purpose. For the most part, lume can be seen on the hands and markers on a divers watch.

I always like to tell people that this is commonly coupled with an anti-reflective coating on the crystal for an ever clearer look. Although I’m not a huge fan of this choice, many divers watches come with large hands and markers. This is for easy legibility, but I’m just not very keen on the bulkier aesthetic.

I was actually kind of surprised to see there are certifications for this category as well. A certified divers watch remains readable at a distance of 9.8 inches. It might not sound like much,  but I can see how it would go a long way in dark waters. Being able to track time as a diver is a big aspect of underwater safety. From oxygen to timing decompression stops, divers need accurate readings to operate as safely as possible.

Durability

One thing that immediately came to mind when I first started getting into divers watches is their durability. With all of the wear and tear of operating underwater, it makes you wonder how that affects the watch over time.

Thankfully, engineering has you covered with a focus on durability from several angles. From corrosion-resistant materials to features built with water in mind, a quality divers watch is expected to last. Not only longevity but consistency in day-to-day functionality.

As I learned more about how divers watches are made, I only became more interested in the finer details. Durability is also seen in the straps that accompany them, as well as in the rugged and bold construction meant for harsh conditions.

Preferences aside, divers watches can be worn with a variety of different straps, although most people go with stainless steel or titanium. For me, I honestly prefer fabric straps. More specifically nylon, as they’re highly water resistant and can quickly dry in the sun. I’m no expert diver, but I love the idea of a luxury watch that I can wear without having to worry much.

Legibility

Some of this falls into the discussion surrounding lume, but legibility is considered much more than that from a design perspective. As mentioned before, legibility is crucial for divers, so it isn’t something that’ll be lacking in a quality timepiece.

Although many divers watches can come with bulkier hands and surrounding features, many of them still take a minimalist approach. I really appreciate the small decisions that lead to the best legibility possible, regardless of lighting conditions.

Watches built with divers in mind tend to avoid clutter on the dial and surrounding components. I enjoy the fact that they aren’t always visually complicated yet come with very intricate engineering and smart design.

Aside from its use in the water, the focus on legibility makes a divers watch perfect for all-day wear. Once again, I’m not a diver by any means, but I can still see myself wearing a dive watch in many settings. 

You might find others wearing it in a more casual outfit, but I feel they look best with a professional or sportier look. It always helps me to get into the mechanics of a watch to help guide my decision-making. However, part of this includes considering if the features of this watch design are a fit for you or not.

Do You Need a Divers Watch?

Based on the notable features of a divers watch, you can see why they would be catered to those who like spending time in the water. Aside from their essential role in many dive expeditions, they’re a timepiece that is seen as staples with many luxury watch brands.

For me, I find interest in dive watches for pure aesthetics. Diving isn’t an activity that’s high on my list, but I can’t ignore the beauty these timepieces have to offer my collection. Taking a more logical stance here, these watches are tailored to divers. Then again, if you favor water resistance you can rely on, a dive watch isn’t a bad way to go.

Although the watch comes with a pretty obvious use case, I sometimes forget that collectors find their interest from an entirely different standpoint. Even if they intend to use the watch, many unique dive watches are closely watched by collectors from all over the world.

I feel the truth is that almost anyone can benefit from a divers watch, but how you determine the benefits comes down to what you value most. Whether it’s functionality, looks, branding, or something like a special edition, I’ve always felt there’s plenty to love about a quality dive watch.

Let’s Wrap This Up

Maybe you’re new to luxury watches or have yet to own a divers of your own, but it’s important to understand the ins and outs first. Most people new to high-end watchmaking aren’t aware of the intricacies that come into play during the whole experience.

While divers watches are aimed at a particular demographic, I can see why they’ve become so popular among everyday people. If you’re looking for a divers of your very own, you can’t go wrong with speaking with us at Exquisite Timepieces. We have the industry and hands-on experience you need to find what looks and feels best for you.

Crowned with the name Boshū, the Grand Seiko SBGW287 is a dress watch that’s meant to stand out. Boshū refers to the seasonal transition to winter, which is why the watch comes in an autumn burgundy color.

Of course, the stainless steel accents of the case and dial offer an excellent contrast. The SBGW287 does a great job of finding balance in its bold colorway. It’s included as a part of Grand Seiko’s Elegance collection, which is more than fitting, in my opinion.

Donning a crocodile leather band, this watch is designed for individuals with unique tastes. In this Grand Seiko SBGW287 review, you’ll get a breakdown of the finite details that make this timepiece whole.

A Historical Significance to the SBGW287

Although the SBGW287 has only been on the market for about two years, it’s part of a much larger plan. You’ll find that it’s a part of the Grand Seiko Elegance collection, but it’s also a part of the brand’s “Flow of Seasons” lineup.

This includes numerous watches that embody the qualities of Japan’s 24 seasonal divisions, also referred to as “sekki.” The Flow of Seasons lineup of GS watches was started back in 2019 and has expanded since, with the SBGW287 being a part of it.

More specifically, the SBGW287 carries the theme of autumn’s transition to winter, which is referred to as Boshū. Part of what has always driven my interest in Grand Seiko designs is their inspiration, which is taken from natural elements.

Unlike many popular models from Grand Seiko, the SBGW287 isn’t a reissue of an older design. On another note, this watch was released alongside the SBGW281. I like its similar features, but I appreciate the dark and bold look of the SBGW287 much better.

You can also find similarities between SBGW283 and SBGW285. While each of these watches comes with plenty of unique identity, it isn’t hard to see the commonalities. The Flow of Seasons lineup started out focusing on the 62GS and GMT watch styles but offers much more variety today. 

With a closer look, I’m able to appreciate the historical detail in this watch, as it’s clearly an important focal point for Grand Seiko. Even if this watch is placed among other similar designs, I feel it’s one that’ll draw the eyes a bit more than others.

Simple and Dynamic Case

Featuring the well-known Zaratsu polish seen in many Grand Seiko timepieces, the SBGW287 case is reflective and equally neutral. I say this due to the overall sleek look of the case, but it’s also important to highlight the actual dimensions.

The case of the SBGW287 comes with a 37.3mm diameter and a 44.3mm lug-to-lug length. I can see how a lot of personal preference would weigh into the thickness, which is 11.7mm. Whereas someone might feel that it’s a bit too thick, I think it offers the perfect amount of balance.

Although the case comes with a reflective nature, it’s distortion-free, which helps it look seamless and uniform to the eye. One detail I’m always excited about is the exhibition case back. I love seeing the movement go to work without missing a single step. What amazes me most about viewing the movement is that it’s something that can be unwaveringly consistent.

The box-shaped sapphire crystal is not only scratch-resistant but also mimics details related to the vintage look of acrylic crystals. I will admit the crown seems a bit large relative to other aspects of the case design. This wouldn’t be a deal breaker for me, but I can’t ignore the fact that it seems a bit too large from certain angles.

On the other hand, having a larger crown makes manual adjustments easier for any wearer. I also appreciate their inclusion of a slipping attachment to prevent overwinding. This is an important detail to help protect the main spring and mitigate wear and tear. 

I also like that the integrated bezel doesn’t distract too much from the dial. An important feature nonetheless, the bezel’s placement and overall design was a smart move, in my opinion.

You get the benefit of the traditional dress watch style and bold yet minimal design choices for a pretty cohesive look. I can see how the color of this watch might be a bit too much for some, but I feel it’s a worthy topic of conversation, to say the least.

Difference in the Dial

With just a quick look, the dial may not seem like much to the untrained eye. It’s true that it does offer simplicity, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t intricate. I find looking at it from an angle does the dial the most justice.

No one would argue with the bold and beautiful color of the dial, but it’s important to note why it’s much more than that. On top of its symbolism of changing seasons, it offers an organic texture that you wish you could feel with your fingertips.

Exhibiting a slightly granulated look, the dial is another great example of Grand Seiko’s attention to detail. I’m also a fan of their choice in deep red, as they could’ve gone with many other color hues when it comes to autumn transitions. Not only is this shade of red one of the most beautiful, but it’s a color you can find during autumn in Japan and many other parts of the world.

With sleek diamond-cut hands and hour markers, you get a thin, highly polished look that doesn’t block out too much of the red. Legibility is never a problem, as the slightest reflection can help illuminate the dial.

Some might be dissatisfied with the lack of a date window or reserve indicator, but I’m a huge fan of this choice. I like to see as much of the dial as possible, and not having those additional features makes it look much more open.

You do get the expected inclusion of the GS logo at the top of the dial, but they made sure it was seamless to its surroundings. I’m usually not a fan when the GS logo comes in yellow gold, so I’m really glad they made the matching choice in color and polish.

The dial, from an overall standpoint, comes with a very sharp look, from the burgundy color to the sharp contrast in the hands and indices. There’s no minute track on this dial, but once again, it’s a smart move, as that would’ve just been an added distraction. Regardless of the bold color in the SBGW287, it’s a deeper red than you might expect and blends well with many fall outfits and aesthetics.

The Trustworthy Mechanical Movement

Including a Grand Seiko Caliber 9S64 mechanical movement, which features a surprisingly smooth tick. With precision and long-term reliability at the forefront, this is a movement that shouldn’t be compared. It stands on its own in several ways, and I appreciate the many independent qualities that are easy to love.

Featuring a standard 72-hour power reserve, the movement guarantees consistent accuracy and is perfect for everyday use. I’d like to highlight that a prominent component of this accuracy stems from its 28,800 beats per hour. In short, the movement isn’t missing a single step, including a mean daily rate of +5 to -3 seconds.

This isn’t a significant difference, but normal usage accuracy ranges from +10 to -1 seconds per day. You may not see every detail of the movement, but several of its 24 jewels are bound to be visible in the case back.

I’m always interested in the inner workings of different movements. The gear train bridge helps to enhance stability and offers a bit of design appeal to the exhibition case back. For those who don’t know, it’s Grand Seiko’s proprietary SPRON alloys that promise a stable accuracy rate and 72-hour power reserve.

I know there are many types of movements included with Grand Seiko watches, but there’s plenty to appreciate about each one. On the surface, the 9S64 movement may seem similar to many others, but it’s always the fine details that matter.

Part of what really sold me about the SBGW287 is its open case back, as I love to be able to view the movement any time I want. I feel it provides a much deeper appreciation for the consistent functionality seen on the surface of the dial.

Does the Strap Hold Up?

Including a matching burgundy color, I believe the crocodile leather strap on the SBGW287 is one of the biggest dividing factors here. I would say most people are used to the polished look of stainless steel or titanium with Grand Seiko. There are many reasons people don’t like leather straps, and I can see how that might be a bit of a turn-off here.

It isn’t a deal breaker for me, as I actually really appreciate the feel of leather straps. Nevertheless, crocodile leather comes with a unique look, and it definitely contrasts with the sleek design of the case.

Aside from that, it does help deliver a uniform look to the watch, which is always important. Leather can be somewhat stiff out of the box, but it doesn’t take long to break in the strap on this watch. You’d be surprised, but with the right fit, it can feel a lot more snug than expected.

The strap on the SBGW287 is 19mm in width, making it a suitable fit for most wrist sizes. You’ll also notice a slight shine to the finish of the strap. I find that this adds to the uniformity of the watch, as there isn’t a single dull detail, no matter which angle you view it from.

Even though I haven’t seen this myself, I’m confident a stainless steel or titanium strap on this watch case would be an outstanding choice. I’m never against swapping out a strap, but I’d prefer to stick with how the watch comes. 

While there aren’t any additional straps included with the SBGW287, the standard lug width makes it a viable choice for many people. My own preferences definitely lean toward a brushed titanium look, but the bold decisions in the SBGW287 make for a nice alternative in my collection.

The On-Wrist Experience

A leading factor in what makes this a great daily wear is the comfort of the crocodile leather. Without this, I’d probably keep it in a consistent rotation. Although I prefer a titanium strap, they aren’t something I can wear every single day.

This is a clear personal preference but an important note for any wearer to consider. While the leather makes the watch quite comfortable, you can’t ignore the overall boldness of its aesthetic. I can’t lie; the deep burgundy color isn’t something that works with every outfit. However, I’d still say this watch should be kept in more professional settings. From my standpoint, it just doesn’t look its best with casual outfits.

I do have skinnier wrists, but the dimensions of the case and strap make it more than suitable for mid-range wrist sizes. Of course, the leather strap offers multiple adjustment points, but this does come with a limit.

You could get professional adjustments for a leather strap, but this isn’t always the best choice unless you’re quite sure about your measurements. While I don’t find the watch to be overly flashy, I can see how someone else might think so. A bold color choice like burgundy isn’t for everyone, as it takes a particular approach to blend it with certain outfits.

As always, personal preferences influence how you wear a watch quite a bit, but this isn’t Grand Seiko’s most subtle design. If you like the color and descriptive feel of the SBGW287, it never hurts to consider finding one for yourself.

Pricing and Availability

Thankfully, you won’t have a hard time finding a Grand Seiko SBGW287. Widely available across the world, that doesn’t change the fact that you should choose a reputable retailer. You’re bound to have a few questions about your first wear, and you want a retailer that can get into the details with you.

One of your best bets in retailers for the SBGW287 would be Exquisite Timepieces. Their combination of industry and hands-on experience ensures you know exactly what you’re wearing.

Not to mention matching price points that won’t gouge you with markups. For what it’s worth, the Grand Seiko SBGW287 can be found retailing at $4,800, making it a great entry-level high-end watch to consider. This is a pretty fair price for a Grand Seiko, which means pre-owned would be even more affordable.

A decent pre-owned SBGW287 can be anywhere from $3,800 to $4,500 if it’s in respectable condition. Regardless of where you live, make sure to do your homework on retailers that’ll guide you in the right direction.

The Bottom Line

Grand Seiko is a name most people know, even if they aren’t necessarily a watch enthusiast. There’s a lot to be said about the brand, but their reputation is something that’s well understood in the details of their watchmaking.

The SBGW287 is among others in the Seasons lineup, but it makes a bold statement that helps it stand out from the rest. If you’re looking for an affordable, entry-level Grand Seiko that’s rich in color, the SBGW287 isn’t a bad addition to your collection.

Taking inspiration from the vast blue skies above Mountain Iwate, the Grand Seiko SBGM253 offers pristine beauty with a unisex approach to design. It’s a celebratory release for the 25th anniversary of the unique Calibre 9S mechanical movement.

Considering it’s a limited edition Grand Seiko, you can assume it’s an automatic staple in the brand’s history. You can rely on the consistent craftsmanship of the brand, and the watch’s vibrant dial speaks to me more than many others.

Once I discovered that only 1,700 of these GS models had ever been made, I definitely started viewing them through rose-colored glasses. This review will highlight the ins and outs of the Grand Seiko SBGM253 and what makes it such a special addition to the GS Elegance collection.

Historical Significance of Grand Seiko SBGM253

The historical relevance of this watch is the fact that it’s the 25th-anniversary limited edition of the Grand Seiko 9S mechanical movement. It’s also found in the Elegance collection, meaning it will come with recognizable design choices.

More specifically, the GS SBGM253 is powered by the Calibre 9S66 movement. This can also be found in many other popular Grand Seiko watches. The SBGM253 doesn’t have a long history, as it was released back in October of 2023. However, I’d say it’s safe to assume that many enthusiasts have already got their hands on quite a few of them.

The watch’s overall design is inspired by the clear blue skies over Mt. Iwate, which can be seen from the GS Studio Shizukuishi. Once again, the watchmaker has blended significant moments in their history into a beautiful, timeless design.

Like anyone else, I like the idea of having a limited edition in my collection, but I have to know it’ll be a good fit. I was initially worried about the bright colorway, but the historical relevance to one of my favorite mechanical movements is what kept me interested.

Considering the role it plays in GS history, I’d figure that the SBGM253 will only become more valuable with time. Even with its significance as a limited edition, the Grand Seiko SBGM253 is still relatively available if you know where to look. With my first interaction, the case and dial were two aspects that I couldn’t stop looking at from every angle.

The SBGM253 Case

Starting with the case material, you get the quality of stainless steel. Although this is great for looks and durability, I’m not a fan of the weight that comes with it. Refined appearance nonetheless, it’s 39.5mm in diameter and 13.7mm thick. For me, this works just fine, but I can see where I’d make some adjustments for my thinner wrists.

When you add on the lug-to-lug length of 46.9mm, it offers a relatively compact look and feel. It also takes inspiration from the 62GS case without being a carbon copy. I always love Grand Seiko’s approach to Zaratsu-polished surfaces, as it’s always well-balanced.

Couple this with the brushed surfaces for contrast, and it creates a dimensional look that heightens its overall appearance. I’m happy they decided to give it a mirror polish on the fixed bezel, as this really supports a professional look.

The box-shaped domed sapphire crystal provides ample durability, and I’m always appreciative of the anti-reflective coating on the underside. Vintage aesthetic aside, I enjoy these small design choices that add to the whole experience for the wearer.

Better yet, all you need to sell me on this GS watch is its open caseback. It might be hidden most of the time, but I get a thrill out of seeing the mechanical movement function without error. You’ll also find the crown blends well with the case, as it’s almost unnoticeable with the distracting beauty of the dial.

Not to be confused with a diver’s watch, the SBGM253 still offers minimal water resistance up to 30m. Great for everyday wear, and shines to make a statement in any environment. I’m not really a fan of bulky watch cases, so the sleek sizing on the SBGM253 blends perfectly with my existing collection.

A Multi-Layered Look at the Dial

Easily the eye-catcher of the entire watch, the dial comes with a light blue colorway with a glint of a sunray finish. These specific colors embody the skies over Mt. Iwate and do an amazing job of capturing the look of a clear midday sky.

When rotating the watch, you’ll notice a light glimmer that comes off the surface of the dial. I truly appreciate how the color bounces off surrounding components for full-fledged vibrancy. The GMT hand offers a noticeable contrast due to its deep blue color, which is matched by the 24-hour time scale as well.

Although it’s hard to tell, the indices feature that same deep blue to contrast the surrounding stainless steel polish. I feel their choice of baton-style markers gives it a classic yet easily readable look. 

I’m a little bummed there isn’t any lume on these markers, but it’s not something I would consider to be a deal breaker. Placed at 3 o’clock, you’ll find a date window that blends seamlessly with the dial. It’s done so well that I didn’t even notice it at first until I saw it in the watch description.

A nice touch of contrasting color can also be found in the yellow-gold GS logo under the 12-hour mark. It’s a hint of luxury meant to draw the eye, and I appreciate it doesn’t muddy the beauty of the light blue in the background.

The fact that the sunray pattern on this watch is always visible brings me a simple kind of joy. Together, the light sky blue and sunray shine on the dial does an amazing job of representing beautiful open skies. Overall, the dial features the standard GMT 4 season collection look, with a limited editing approach to the finer details.

Celebrating the 9S66 Mechanical Movement

You can’t marvel at the SBGM253 without talking about the mechanical 9S66 movement, the star of the show. This is an in-house movement from Grand Seiko that includes automatic and manual winding capabilities. It’s built with a standard 72-hour power reserve, and I’m a fan of their inclusion of dual time-zone tracking.

I don’t travel all the time, but it’s a small detail they didn’t have to include, which makes it all the more special for me. You also won’t have an issue with accuracy. The SBGM253 promises +5 to -3 seconds per day when static and +10 to -1 seconds per day with normal use.

Smooth precision with time and functionality are big selling points for the overall quality of this watch. I really enjoy the firm feel of the watch crown, as it feels sturdy and doesn’t come with an overly jarring tick.

When you get down to the mechanical details, this movement only gets more amazing. Promising 28,000 vibrations per hour and the inclusion of 35 vibrant jewels, the movement matches its surrounding beauty just fine. That’s why I love an open caseback. It’s more than just functionality, and I find it to be one of the most beautiful components of any watch.

You might not notice just by looking at it, but the design of Grand Seiko movements comes with many considerations. They come with a mix of tradition and innovative technology to ensure we get the best quality without forgetting their roots.

From the limited edition watch to the included movement and choices in color and design, I find it amazing they hide pieces of their history in every layer. In short, the functionality of this movement adds to the everyday wear of the watch. It guarantees minimal need for manual adjustments, although you’re perfectly free to do so.

What About the Straps?

The case, dial, and GS movement are all focal points for obvious reasons, but I have the same meticulous interest in the strap. While stainless steel may offer a heavier feel compared to titanium, there is nothing wrong with its durable wear. It matches the case with a blend of brushed and polished finishes, which I found to be much more seamless than I expected.

I felt like my first experience with the SBGM253 was a lucky one, as it felt like a pretty snug fit. The strap does lack micro-adjustments, which was a slight disappointment for me but not a deal breaker by any means.

However, you do get the benefit of half links and screw links, which helps with slight sizing adjustments. I understand why everyone leans toward straps with micro-adjustments, but I don’t feel like that should be a significant deciding factor.

Don’t forget that you can swap out the strap if you’d like, but I’d be careful about this choice. The 19mm lug width makes the swap pretty simple, but I think the original strap’s design is flawless with the rest of the components. One slight difference in polish or design in a new strap and could throw off the entire ensemble.

This watch also doesn’t come with any additional straps included. The aesthetic of the strap on its own is gorgeous in its own right. Of course, it really shines as a compliment to the luxury and GS history the watch stands for. With the watch sitting on my wrist in all its glory, I find myself critiquing how it looks and feels in all regards.

The On-Wrist Experience

Similarly to many other Grand Seiko watches, the SBGM253 was crafted to be fitting for many common wrist sizes. The stock strap is best for wrist sizes ranging from 6 to 7.5 inches. This also explains why it felt so fitting for me, as my wrist size is somewhere in the middle here.

I really like the somewhat thick side profile of the watch and the fact that it looks sleek with a thin overhead. A lot of that comes from their choice to use a domed sapphire crystal. One thing I noticed about this watch is that it does catch on some of my long sleeves.

It’ll hide just fine in baggier clothes, but it might stick out more with professional wear. The SBGM253 is definitely one of the lighter-profile watches in my lineup, but it’s hard to ignore. Aside from the color and functionality, its significance to GS craftsmanship makes it look even better.

There’s no doubt I love this watch for many reasons, but it isn’t something I would wear every day. Merely from a styling perspective, it isn’t all that suitable for my daily wear. I’d also find myself sporting this watch in some seasons over others.

Due to the theme behind the watch’s colorway, I’d be more inclined to wear this during spring and summer. However, that doesn’t mean it won’t look flawless at any time of year. It’s evident that it’s built for everyday wear, but it wouldn’t be my first choice every day of the week. The well-balanced and sporty aesthetic of the watch doesn’t go unnoticed with the SBGM253.

Pricing and Availability

Luckily, it isn’t too hard to source pricing for this limited edition GS. At this time, the Grand Seiko SBGM253 retails for $8,350. If you happen to find a used one, you can expect the watch to still be in the $5,000 to $7,000 range.

The watch isn’t that old, and considering it’s a limited edition, there are many people who are looking to let go of theirs. Thankfully, the watch isn’t hard to find yet, but it’s important to work alongside reputable retailers.

With only 1,700 of these ever made, you should always question where you’re able to source an SBGM253. Once again, they’re still widely available on the market, but their popularity is bound to garner some false promises. 

This can easily be avoided by speaking with those who have been in the industry for years. Retailers like Exquisite Timepieces on the ins and outs from an industry and product standpoint. You never want to rush your decision with a luxury watch, but it doesn’t hurt to seek some guidance.

Final Thoughts

Grand Seiko is a name that most people know about, but few are aware of how many unique designs they actually create. Something like the SBGM253 could slip under the radar due to its limited run.

Make sure you try it on first, if possible. The vibrancy of this watch may not be for everyone, but it’s easily been my favorite blue ever since I put it on. Consider diving into the Grand Seiko SBGM253 and grab a piece of watchmaking history.

As a commemorative gesture to the 44GS, which coined the Grand Seiko style, the watchmaker created the SBGJ255. The style of this watch definitely holds up to the status of a 55th anniversary and makes for a clean-looking statement piece.

You’ll find that the SBGJ255 features the same original 44GS look. However, it also comes with many unique design choices that make it stand out on its own. The watch was released in 2022, but it’ll be talked about for many years to come due to what it represents.

Choosing a luxury watch comes with several questions, but getting into the details of the components can help guide the decision-making process. In this article, you’ll learn everything you need to know about the Grand Seiko SBGJ255.

An Iconic Addition to the 44GS Lineage

Although the SBGJ225 was released back in 2022, interest in the watch still stands strong to this day. It features the notable aspects of the original Grand Seiko 44GS from 1967, with modern elements that’ll make you take a second look.

I respect the design choices that went into this 55th-anniversary limited edition, but what sold me was the fact it’s part of the Heritage collection. The historical significance on top of the simplistic design choices is perfect from my standpoint.

Considering it’s a limited edition, many enthusiasts are happy to get their hands on one. Even though you can find the SBGJ255 online, that doesn’t mean you should wait too long to shop around. This watch itself may not have a long history on the market, but the callback to the 1967 44GS inevitably makes it a timeless addition to the GS lineup.

Looking Into the Case

With a 40mm diameter, the case on this watch features a pretty standard size that looks great on most average wrist sizes. I’m always thankful for an open case back, as looking at the internal movement going to work is a beautiful sight to see. It’s important to note that the watch takes aspects from the 44GS style, but it isn’t an identical model or reissue.

I appreciate the case’s nice shine due to the Zaratsu polishing. For a little contrast, Grand Seiko always makes sure to add a little variation, which can be seen in the hints of brushed titanium.

A few other classic elements of this watch include a curved sideline, a polished bezel, and dual-curved sapphire crystal. The flat surface of the case is free of distortion. The small details make me take a deeper look, and the case delivers a uniformity that’s easy to marvel at.

The watch may be fitting for many different people, but the sizable nature of the case can feel more prominent from any angle. For me, this isn’t so much a deal breaker, but understandably, many people might not prefer a bulkier case.

I was a bit surprised by the half-recessed crown and their choice of a reverse-slanted bezel. It isn’t something I expected, but I love that Grand Seiko took this route. It makes for a much more uniform and pristine look, among other features. Some say that the case is thick and bulky, and although this is true to some degree, I can’t really say it’s a deal breaker. Maybe for some, but the case size blends perfectly with all of the surrounding features from my point of view.

Dialing In on the Details

At a glance, the dial may seem relatively simple, but there’s a surprising amount of detail put into every aspect of it. I have always loved a good colorway, but I’m really looking for how that color looks in the dial texture. The SBGJ255 comes with a vertical grain texture that looks great from every angle, and it’s known to be inspired by shōji screens.

The LumiBrite hands and hour markers make sure you can read the time in all light conditions, and the hands feature the same polish as the case. I love the fact it offers a subtle sparkle in the light but doesn’t come off too flashy at all. 

Little color accents are another detail that I look for in a GS watch. The Grand Seiko logo on the dial comes in a light blue, and this same color is seen in the “GMT” text, inner 24-hour markers, and the GMT hand as well.

Even with all of these minor details, I would still consider the dial to be pretty minimalist. Grand Seiko comes with a wide variety of timepieces, but I generally prefer when they take a simpler approach to the design. There’s a certain harmony found in every GS watch, and the SBGJ255 is a leading example of how they execute this with precision.

I’m not particularly interested in blue colorways, but the hints of blue against the white dial contrast the overall simplicity. You can easily read the watch in standard or military time, and the GMT hand makes it easy to track changing time zones.

The Movement That Makes the SBGJ255 Tick

Part of what has made Grand Seiko such a sought-after watchmaker over time is their dedication to in-house movements. The Caliber 9S86 is what puts this watch in motion. It’s a high-frequency movement that ticks at 36,000 vibrations per hour (vph). This creates an extremely smooth motion for the seconds hand on top of impressive accuracy.

I’m easily impressed when it comes to GS movements, as their engineering is amazing across the board. What really gets me is watching the movement go to work as every finite component blends perfectly with the next. 

Wearers get the benefit of a 55-hour power reserve. For those who don’t know, the power reserve is a part of the watch’s reliable performance between windings. The mean daily rate is +5 to -3 seconds per day, and most people would consider this level of accuracy pretty exceptional.

I get pretty excited about the GMT functionality, as I don’t have a watch in my collection that has this feature. It allows for independent adjustment of the hour hand without affecting the flow of the seconds hand. For those who travel frequently, this can be a nice feature to make sure the watch is always on time.

If you get a chance to look closely, you’ll notice the titanium rotor of the movement has a gold tone to it. This comes from a special anodic oxidation process, giving the rotor a very distinct look.

It’s also important to note that the rotor is skeletonized, which gives you a better view of the decorated movement below it. Once I understood the collaborative performance features of this watch, I had to try it for myself. I’m not necessarily prone to a specific movement, but I do love the amount of engineering, design, and detail that can be marveled at any time you want.

Strap Qualities

I can see how the strap might look pretty basic to most people, but it’s more about the overall qualities that make it stand out. First and foremost, they always sell me on the high-intensity titanium. I’ll always prefer that over stainless steel, as it’s sturdy yet lightweight and undoubtedly beautiful.

Featuring a 19mm band width, it’ll feel pretty uniform around the wrist, and it tapers a bit down to 18mm. This helps to maintain proportion to the case so that one component isn’t taking the spotlight over another. Cohesiveness is a norm in Grand Seiko watches, but you can’t really tell until you try it on for yourself.

When I was able to put on the SBGJ255, it was immediately apparent that it was a great fit. At least for me, I didn’t feel like any adjustments needed to be made. The band is also equipped with screw links, as well as half links for proper sizing. However, a slight downside is that it doesn’t come built with micro-adjustments.

Aside from that, the folding clasp feels sturdy and secure, and it’s built with a seamless safety push-button release. If you simply aren’t a fan of the strap, you can easily swap it out, thanks to the drilled lugs. 

Finding replacement straps for GS watches seems to be a common challenge for me, but I rarely ever want to change in the first place. If you want the true Grand Seiko experience, I think it’s important to keep all of the original components.

Part of the classic look of the strap stems from their choice of polished intermediate links. This contrasts the primary brushed look of the strap, adding a little shine around your entire wrist. Of course, this isn’t overbearing, as Grand Seiko knows exactly how to accent a luxury watch.

How it Feels on the Wrist

Some of this will come down to personal preference, but in my opinion, it’s pretty easy to describe how this watch feels on the wrist. For me, it’s an immediate everyday wear. I can see how the white dial could be reserved for certain occasions, but it isn’t flashy enough to distract from casual outfits.

Although the watch dimensions are fitting for a variety of wrist sizes, it’s still optimal for a particular range. Those who have 6 to 7.5” wrists will have the best experience with the SBGJ255. Once again, with adjustments and a little wiggle room over 7.5”, the timepiece is more than suitable for many common wrist sizes.

I will agree that the thickness of the watch is noticeable. It isn’t something that can be ignored exactly, but it isn’t a detail that affects everyday wear. The watch easily hides behind my wrist cuffs and never catches on the edges due to its dimensions.

In the past, I was actually more inclined to swap straps out for leather, but polished titanium is starting to change that preference. There was a time when I would have thought this watch was too flashy. Now that I have a better understanding of Grand Seiko and their design process, I have immense appreciation for their stance on titanium.

Blending practical functionality and high-end beauty, the SBGJ255 can quickly become your new family heirloom. From my standpoint, the watch is more than viable for professional and casual settings. Overall, the day-to-day experience of wearing the SBGJ255 is more than comfortable and fashionable, all in one.

Pricing and Availability

Any Grand Seiko watch is bound to come with a sizable price tag, but they do range from affordable to expensive. Regarding the SBGJ255, I feel this watch hits a sweet spot somewhere in the middle. You can find the timepiece retailed at $8,500. On the other hand, you can look into pre-owned pricing, which can range from $4,000 to $7,500, depending on various factors.

When you compare this to other GS watches and luxury watches from other brands, the asking price is more than understandable. For me, my price cap is usually $10,000, as that’s a bit hard for me to warrant, but anything underneath that is more than enough.

I plan on keeping mine for quite a long time, considering the fact it’s a limited edition. With these types of watches, you never know how much harder they’ll be able to find as time goes on. Since the SBGJ255 is only a few years old at this point, it’s still pretty easy to source online.

Shopping online is always easy to do, but finding reputable watchmakers and retailers is a different story. The Grand Seiko name speaks for itself, but you want to find a retailer that has experience with the brand and the industry as a whole.

If you’re looking for a retailer that can exceed your expectations, working with Exquisite Timepieces is the only back-end support you need. Not only can you find the SBGJ255 in all its glory, but we will walk you through all of your questions and concerns. Buying a GS watch should be considered a lifelong commitment; finding a retailer that understands this is crucial.

Final thoughts

Grand Seiko may have a long line of watches and collections, but you don’t want to miss out on the SBGJ255 55th anniversary limited edition. These aren’t always common, and I’d argue this watch specifically is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. GS leans heavily into its heritage, and it can be seen and felt in every detail of the SBGJ255.

Don’t hesitate to reach out to us at Exquisite Timepieces. Whether you have questions regarding the SBGJ255 or another design, we’re more than happy to provide the guidance you’re looking for.