Author: Lucas M

Crowned with the name Boshū, the Grand Seiko SBGW287 is a dress watch that’s meant to stand out. Boshū refers to the seasonal transition to winter, which is why the watch comes in an autumn burgundy color.

Of course, the stainless steel accents of the case and dial offer an excellent contrast. The SBGW287 does a great job of finding balance in its bold colorway. It’s included as a part of Grand Seiko’s Elegance collection, which is more than fitting, in my opinion.

Donning a crocodile leather band, this watch is designed for individuals with unique tastes. In this Grand Seiko SBGW287 review, you’ll get a breakdown of the finite details that make this timepiece whole.

A Historical Significance to the SBGW287

Although the SBGW287 has only been on the market for about two years, it’s part of a much larger plan. You’ll find that it’s a part of the Grand Seiko Elegance collection, but it’s also a part of the brand’s “Flow of Seasons” lineup.

This includes numerous watches that embody the qualities of Japan’s 24 seasonal divisions, also referred to as “sekki.” The Flow of Seasons lineup of GS watches was started back in 2019 and has expanded since, with the SBGW287 being a part of it.

More specifically, the SBGW287 carries the theme of autumn’s transition to winter, which is referred to as Boshū. Part of what has always driven my interest in Grand Seiko designs is their inspiration, which is taken from natural elements.

Unlike many popular models from Grand Seiko, the SBGW287 isn’t a reissue of an older design. On another note, this watch was released alongside the SBGW281. I like its similar features, but I appreciate the dark and bold look of the SBGW287 much better.

You can also find similarities between SBGW283 and SBGW285. While each of these watches comes with plenty of unique identity, it isn’t hard to see the commonalities. The Flow of Seasons lineup started out focusing on the 62GS and GMT watch styles but offers much more variety today. 

With a closer look, I’m able to appreciate the historical detail in this watch, as it’s clearly an important focal point for Grand Seiko. Even if this watch is placed among other similar designs, I feel it’s one that’ll draw the eyes a bit more than others.

Simple and Dynamic Case

Featuring the well-known Zaratsu polish seen in many Grand Seiko timepieces, the SBGW287 case is reflective and equally neutral. I say this due to the overall sleek look of the case, but it’s also important to highlight the actual dimensions.

The case of the SBGW287 comes with a 37.3mm diameter and a 44.3mm lug-to-lug length. I can see how a lot of personal preference would weigh into the thickness, which is 11.7mm. Whereas someone might feel that it’s a bit too thick, I think it offers the perfect amount of balance.

Although the case comes with a reflective nature, it’s distortion-free, which helps it look seamless and uniform to the eye. One detail I’m always excited about is the exhibition case back. I love seeing the movement go to work without missing a single step. What amazes me most about viewing the movement is that it’s something that can be unwaveringly consistent.

The box-shaped sapphire crystal is not only scratch-resistant but also mimics details related to the vintage look of acrylic crystals. I will admit the crown seems a bit large relative to other aspects of the case design. This wouldn’t be a deal breaker for me, but I can’t ignore the fact that it seems a bit too large from certain angles.

On the other hand, having a larger crown makes manual adjustments easier for any wearer. I also appreciate their inclusion of a slipping attachment to prevent overwinding. This is an important detail to help protect the main spring and mitigate wear and tear. 

I also like that the integrated bezel doesn’t distract too much from the dial. An important feature nonetheless, the bezel’s placement and overall design was a smart move, in my opinion.

You get the benefit of the traditional dress watch style and bold yet minimal design choices for a pretty cohesive look. I can see how the color of this watch might be a bit too much for some, but I feel it’s a worthy topic of conversation, to say the least.

Difference in the Dial

With just a quick look, the dial may not seem like much to the untrained eye. It’s true that it does offer simplicity, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t intricate. I find looking at it from an angle does the dial the most justice.

No one would argue with the bold and beautiful color of the dial, but it’s important to note why it’s much more than that. On top of its symbolism of changing seasons, it offers an organic texture that you wish you could feel with your fingertips.

Exhibiting a slightly granulated look, the dial is another great example of Grand Seiko’s attention to detail. I’m also a fan of their choice in deep red, as they could’ve gone with many other color hues when it comes to autumn transitions. Not only is this shade of red one of the most beautiful, but it’s a color you can find during autumn in Japan and many other parts of the world.

With sleek diamond-cut hands and hour markers, you get a thin, highly polished look that doesn’t block out too much of the red. Legibility is never a problem, as the slightest reflection can help illuminate the dial.

Some might be dissatisfied with the lack of a date window or reserve indicator, but I’m a huge fan of this choice. I like to see as much of the dial as possible, and not having those additional features makes it look much more open.

You do get the expected inclusion of the GS logo at the top of the dial, but they made sure it was seamless to its surroundings. I’m usually not a fan when the GS logo comes in yellow gold, so I’m really glad they made the matching choice in color and polish.

The dial, from an overall standpoint, comes with a very sharp look, from the burgundy color to the sharp contrast in the hands and indices. There’s no minute track on this dial, but once again, it’s a smart move, as that would’ve just been an added distraction. Regardless of the bold color in the SBGW287, it’s a deeper red than you might expect and blends well with many fall outfits and aesthetics.

The Trustworthy Mechanical Movement

Including a Grand Seiko Caliber 9S64 mechanical movement, which features a surprisingly smooth tick. With precision and long-term reliability at the forefront, this is a movement that shouldn’t be compared. It stands on its own in several ways, and I appreciate the many independent qualities that are easy to love.

Featuring a standard 72-hour power reserve, the movement guarantees consistent accuracy and is perfect for everyday use. I’d like to highlight that a prominent component of this accuracy stems from its 28,800 beats per hour. In short, the movement isn’t missing a single step, including a mean daily rate of +5 to -3 seconds.

This isn’t a significant difference, but normal usage accuracy ranges from +10 to -1 seconds per day. You may not see every detail of the movement, but several of its 24 jewels are bound to be visible in the case back.

I’m always interested in the inner workings of different movements. The gear train bridge helps to enhance stability and offers a bit of design appeal to the exhibition case back. For those who don’t know, it’s Grand Seiko’s proprietary SPRON alloys that promise a stable accuracy rate and 72-hour power reserve.

I know there are many types of movements included with Grand Seiko watches, but there’s plenty to appreciate about each one. On the surface, the 9S64 movement may seem similar to many others, but it’s always the fine details that matter.

Part of what really sold me about the SBGW287 is its open case back, as I love to be able to view the movement any time I want. I feel it provides a much deeper appreciation for the consistent functionality seen on the surface of the dial.

Does the Strap Hold Up?

Including a matching burgundy color, I believe the crocodile leather strap on the SBGW287 is one of the biggest dividing factors here. I would say most people are used to the polished look of stainless steel or titanium with Grand Seiko. There are many reasons people don’t like leather straps, and I can see how that might be a bit of a turn-off here.

It isn’t a deal breaker for me, as I actually really appreciate the feel of leather straps. Nevertheless, crocodile leather comes with a unique look, and it definitely contrasts with the sleek design of the case.

Aside from that, it does help deliver a uniform look to the watch, which is always important. Leather can be somewhat stiff out of the box, but it doesn’t take long to break in the strap on this watch. You’d be surprised, but with the right fit, it can feel a lot more snug than expected.

The strap on the SBGW287 is 19mm in width, making it a suitable fit for most wrist sizes. You’ll also notice a slight shine to the finish of the strap. I find that this adds to the uniformity of the watch, as there isn’t a single dull detail, no matter which angle you view it from.

Even though I haven’t seen this myself, I’m confident a stainless steel or titanium strap on this watch case would be an outstanding choice. I’m never against swapping out a strap, but I’d prefer to stick with how the watch comes. 

While there aren’t any additional straps included with the SBGW287, the standard lug width makes it a viable choice for many people. My own preferences definitely lean toward a brushed titanium look, but the bold decisions in the SBGW287 make for a nice alternative in my collection.

The On-Wrist Experience

A leading factor in what makes this a great daily wear is the comfort of the crocodile leather. Without this, I’d probably keep it in a consistent rotation. Although I prefer a titanium strap, they aren’t something I can wear every single day.

This is a clear personal preference but an important note for any wearer to consider. While the leather makes the watch quite comfortable, you can’t ignore the overall boldness of its aesthetic. I can’t lie; the deep burgundy color isn’t something that works with every outfit. However, I’d still say this watch should be kept in more professional settings. From my standpoint, it just doesn’t look its best with casual outfits.

I do have skinnier wrists, but the dimensions of the case and strap make it more than suitable for mid-range wrist sizes. Of course, the leather strap offers multiple adjustment points, but this does come with a limit.

You could get professional adjustments for a leather strap, but this isn’t always the best choice unless you’re quite sure about your measurements. While I don’t find the watch to be overly flashy, I can see how someone else might think so. A bold color choice like burgundy isn’t for everyone, as it takes a particular approach to blend it with certain outfits.

As always, personal preferences influence how you wear a watch quite a bit, but this isn’t Grand Seiko’s most subtle design. If you like the color and descriptive feel of the SBGW287, it never hurts to consider finding one for yourself.

Pricing and Availability

Thankfully, you won’t have a hard time finding a Grand Seiko SBGW287. Widely available across the world, that doesn’t change the fact that you should choose a reputable retailer. You’re bound to have a few questions about your first wear, and you want a retailer that can get into the details with you.

One of your best bets in retailers for the SBGW287 would be Exquisite Timepieces. Their combination of industry and hands-on experience ensures you know exactly what you’re wearing.

Not to mention matching price points that won’t gouge you with markups. For what it’s worth, the Grand Seiko SBGW287 can be found retailing at $4,800, making it a great entry-level high-end watch to consider. This is a pretty fair price for a Grand Seiko, which means pre-owned would be even more affordable.

A decent pre-owned SBGW287 can be anywhere from $3,800 to $4,500 if it’s in respectable condition. Regardless of where you live, make sure to do your homework on retailers that’ll guide you in the right direction.

The Bottom Line

Grand Seiko is a name most people know, even if they aren’t necessarily a watch enthusiast. There’s a lot to be said about the brand, but their reputation is something that’s well understood in the details of their watchmaking.

The SBGW287 is among others in the Seasons lineup, but it makes a bold statement that helps it stand out from the rest. If you’re looking for an affordable, entry-level Grand Seiko that’s rich in color, the SBGW287 isn’t a bad addition to your collection.

Taking inspiration from the vast blue skies above Mountain Iwate, the Grand Seiko SBGM253 offers pristine beauty with a unisex approach to design. It’s a celebratory release for the 25th anniversary of the unique Calibre 9S mechanical movement.

Considering it’s a limited edition Grand Seiko, you can assume it’s an automatic staple in the brand’s history. You can rely on the consistent craftsmanship of the brand, and the watch’s vibrant dial speaks to me more than many others.

Once I discovered that only 1,700 of these GS models had ever been made, I definitely started viewing them through rose-colored glasses. This review will highlight the ins and outs of the Grand Seiko SBGM253 and what makes it such a special addition to the GS Elegance collection.

Historical Significance of Grand Seiko SBGM253

The historical relevance of this watch is the fact that it’s the 25th-anniversary limited edition of the Grand Seiko 9S mechanical movement. It’s also found in the Elegance collection, meaning it will come with recognizable design choices.

More specifically, the GS SBGM253 is powered by the Calibre 9S66 movement. This can also be found in many other popular Grand Seiko watches. The SBGM253 doesn’t have a long history, as it was released back in October of 2023. However, I’d say it’s safe to assume that many enthusiasts have already got their hands on quite a few of them.

The watch’s overall design is inspired by the clear blue skies over Mt. Iwate, which can be seen from the GS Studio Shizukuishi. Once again, the watchmaker has blended significant moments in their history into a beautiful, timeless design.

Like anyone else, I like the idea of having a limited edition in my collection, but I have to know it’ll be a good fit. I was initially worried about the bright colorway, but the historical relevance to one of my favorite mechanical movements is what kept me interested.

Considering the role it plays in GS history, I’d figure that the SBGM253 will only become more valuable with time. Even with its significance as a limited edition, the Grand Seiko SBGM253 is still relatively available if you know where to look. With my first interaction, the case and dial were two aspects that I couldn’t stop looking at from every angle.

The SBGM253 Case

Starting with the case material, you get the quality of stainless steel. Although this is great for looks and durability, I’m not a fan of the weight that comes with it. Refined appearance nonetheless, it’s 39.5mm in diameter and 13.7mm thick. For me, this works just fine, but I can see where I’d make some adjustments for my thinner wrists.

When you add on the lug-to-lug length of 46.9mm, it offers a relatively compact look and feel. It also takes inspiration from the 62GS case without being a carbon copy. I always love Grand Seiko’s approach to Zaratsu-polished surfaces, as it’s always well-balanced.

Couple this with the brushed surfaces for contrast, and it creates a dimensional look that heightens its overall appearance. I’m happy they decided to give it a mirror polish on the fixed bezel, as this really supports a professional look.

The box-shaped domed sapphire crystal provides ample durability, and I’m always appreciative of the anti-reflective coating on the underside. Vintage aesthetic aside, I enjoy these small design choices that add to the whole experience for the wearer.

Better yet, all you need to sell me on this GS watch is its open caseback. It might be hidden most of the time, but I get a thrill out of seeing the mechanical movement function without error. You’ll also find the crown blends well with the case, as it’s almost unnoticeable with the distracting beauty of the dial.

Not to be confused with a diver’s watch, the SBGM253 still offers minimal water resistance up to 30m. Great for everyday wear, and shines to make a statement in any environment. I’m not really a fan of bulky watch cases, so the sleek sizing on the SBGM253 blends perfectly with my existing collection.

A Multi-Layered Look at the Dial

Easily the eye-catcher of the entire watch, the dial comes with a light blue colorway with a glint of a sunray finish. These specific colors embody the skies over Mt. Iwate and do an amazing job of capturing the look of a clear midday sky.

When rotating the watch, you’ll notice a light glimmer that comes off the surface of the dial. I truly appreciate how the color bounces off surrounding components for full-fledged vibrancy. The GMT hand offers a noticeable contrast due to its deep blue color, which is matched by the 24-hour time scale as well.

Although it’s hard to tell, the indices feature that same deep blue to contrast the surrounding stainless steel polish. I feel their choice of baton-style markers gives it a classic yet easily readable look. 

I’m a little bummed there isn’t any lume on these markers, but it’s not something I would consider to be a deal breaker. Placed at 3 o’clock, you’ll find a date window that blends seamlessly with the dial. It’s done so well that I didn’t even notice it at first until I saw it in the watch description.

A nice touch of contrasting color can also be found in the yellow-gold GS logo under the 12-hour mark. It’s a hint of luxury meant to draw the eye, and I appreciate it doesn’t muddy the beauty of the light blue in the background.

The fact that the sunray pattern on this watch is always visible brings me a simple kind of joy. Together, the light sky blue and sunray shine on the dial does an amazing job of representing beautiful open skies. Overall, the dial features the standard GMT 4 season collection look, with a limited editing approach to the finer details.

Celebrating the 9S66 Mechanical Movement

You can’t marvel at the SBGM253 without talking about the mechanical 9S66 movement, the star of the show. This is an in-house movement from Grand Seiko that includes automatic and manual winding capabilities. It’s built with a standard 72-hour power reserve, and I’m a fan of their inclusion of dual time-zone tracking.

I don’t travel all the time, but it’s a small detail they didn’t have to include, which makes it all the more special for me. You also won’t have an issue with accuracy. The SBGM253 promises +5 to -3 seconds per day when static and +10 to -1 seconds per day with normal use.

Smooth precision with time and functionality are big selling points for the overall quality of this watch. I really enjoy the firm feel of the watch crown, as it feels sturdy and doesn’t come with an overly jarring tick.

When you get down to the mechanical details, this movement only gets more amazing. Promising 28,000 vibrations per hour and the inclusion of 35 vibrant jewels, the movement matches its surrounding beauty just fine. That’s why I love an open caseback. It’s more than just functionality, and I find it to be one of the most beautiful components of any watch.

You might not notice just by looking at it, but the design of Grand Seiko movements comes with many considerations. They come with a mix of tradition and innovative technology to ensure we get the best quality without forgetting their roots.

From the limited edition watch to the included movement and choices in color and design, I find it amazing they hide pieces of their history in every layer. In short, the functionality of this movement adds to the everyday wear of the watch. It guarantees minimal need for manual adjustments, although you’re perfectly free to do so.

What About the Straps?

The case, dial, and GS movement are all focal points for obvious reasons, but I have the same meticulous interest in the strap. While stainless steel may offer a heavier feel compared to titanium, there is nothing wrong with its durable wear. It matches the case with a blend of brushed and polished finishes, which I found to be much more seamless than I expected.

I felt like my first experience with the SBGM253 was a lucky one, as it felt like a pretty snug fit. The strap does lack micro-adjustments, which was a slight disappointment for me but not a deal breaker by any means.

However, you do get the benefit of half links and screw links, which helps with slight sizing adjustments. I understand why everyone leans toward straps with micro-adjustments, but I don’t feel like that should be a significant deciding factor.

Don’t forget that you can swap out the strap if you’d like, but I’d be careful about this choice. The 19mm lug width makes the swap pretty simple, but I think the original strap’s design is flawless with the rest of the components. One slight difference in polish or design in a new strap and could throw off the entire ensemble.

This watch also doesn’t come with any additional straps included. The aesthetic of the strap on its own is gorgeous in its own right. Of course, it really shines as a compliment to the luxury and GS history the watch stands for. With the watch sitting on my wrist in all its glory, I find myself critiquing how it looks and feels in all regards.

The On-Wrist Experience

Similarly to many other Grand Seiko watches, the SBGM253 was crafted to be fitting for many common wrist sizes. The stock strap is best for wrist sizes ranging from 6 to 7.5 inches. This also explains why it felt so fitting for me, as my wrist size is somewhere in the middle here.

I really like the somewhat thick side profile of the watch and the fact that it looks sleek with a thin overhead. A lot of that comes from their choice to use a domed sapphire crystal. One thing I noticed about this watch is that it does catch on some of my long sleeves.

It’ll hide just fine in baggier clothes, but it might stick out more with professional wear. The SBGM253 is definitely one of the lighter-profile watches in my lineup, but it’s hard to ignore. Aside from the color and functionality, its significance to GS craftsmanship makes it look even better.

There’s no doubt I love this watch for many reasons, but it isn’t something I would wear every day. Merely from a styling perspective, it isn’t all that suitable for my daily wear. I’d also find myself sporting this watch in some seasons over others.

Due to the theme behind the watch’s colorway, I’d be more inclined to wear this during spring and summer. However, that doesn’t mean it won’t look flawless at any time of year. It’s evident that it’s built for everyday wear, but it wouldn’t be my first choice every day of the week. The well-balanced and sporty aesthetic of the watch doesn’t go unnoticed with the SBGM253.

Pricing and Availability

Luckily, it isn’t too hard to source pricing for this limited edition GS. At this time, the Grand Seiko SBGM253 retails for $8,350. If you happen to find a used one, you can expect the watch to still be in the $5,000 to $7,000 range.

The watch isn’t that old, and considering it’s a limited edition, there are many people who are looking to let go of theirs. Thankfully, the watch isn’t hard to find yet, but it’s important to work alongside reputable retailers.

With only 1,700 of these ever made, you should always question where you’re able to source an SBGM253. Once again, they’re still widely available on the market, but their popularity is bound to garner some false promises. 

This can easily be avoided by speaking with those who have been in the industry for years. Retailers like Exquisite Timepieces on the ins and outs from an industry and product standpoint. You never want to rush your decision with a luxury watch, but it doesn’t hurt to seek some guidance.

Final Thoughts

Grand Seiko is a name that most people know about, but few are aware of how many unique designs they actually create. Something like the SBGM253 could slip under the radar due to its limited run.

Make sure you try it on first, if possible. The vibrancy of this watch may not be for everyone, but it’s easily been my favorite blue ever since I put it on. Consider diving into the Grand Seiko SBGM253 and grab a piece of watchmaking history.

As a commemorative gesture to the 44GS, which coined the Grand Seiko style, the watchmaker created the SBGJ255. The style of this watch definitely holds up to the status of a 55th anniversary and makes for a clean-looking statement piece.

You’ll find that the SBGJ255 features the same original 44GS look. However, it also comes with many unique design choices that make it stand out on its own. The watch was released in 2022, but it’ll be talked about for many years to come due to what it represents.

Choosing a luxury watch comes with several questions, but getting into the details of the components can help guide the decision-making process. In this article, you’ll learn everything you need to know about the Grand Seiko SBGJ255.

An Iconic Addition to the 44GS Lineage

Although the SBGJ225 was released back in 2022, interest in the watch still stands strong to this day. It features the notable aspects of the original Grand Seiko 44GS from 1967, with modern elements that’ll make you take a second look.

I respect the design choices that went into this 55th-anniversary limited edition, but what sold me was the fact it’s part of the Heritage collection. The historical significance on top of the simplistic design choices is perfect from my standpoint.

Considering it’s a limited edition, many enthusiasts are happy to get their hands on one. Even though you can find the SBGJ255 online, that doesn’t mean you should wait too long to shop around. This watch itself may not have a long history on the market, but the callback to the 1967 44GS inevitably makes it a timeless addition to the GS lineup.

Looking Into the Case

With a 40mm diameter, the case on this watch features a pretty standard size that looks great on most average wrist sizes. I’m always thankful for an open case back, as looking at the internal movement going to work is a beautiful sight to see. It’s important to note that the watch takes aspects from the 44GS style, but it isn’t an identical model or reissue.

I appreciate the case’s nice shine due to the Zaratsu polishing. For a little contrast, Grand Seiko always makes sure to add a little variation, which can be seen in the hints of brushed titanium.

A few other classic elements of this watch include a curved sideline, a polished bezel, and dual-curved sapphire crystal. The flat surface of the case is free of distortion. The small details make me take a deeper look, and the case delivers a uniformity that’s easy to marvel at.

The watch may be fitting for many different people, but the sizable nature of the case can feel more prominent from any angle. For me, this isn’t so much a deal breaker, but understandably, many people might not prefer a bulkier case.

I was a bit surprised by the half-recessed crown and their choice of a reverse-slanted bezel. It isn’t something I expected, but I love that Grand Seiko took this route. It makes for a much more uniform and pristine look, among other features. Some say that the case is thick and bulky, and although this is true to some degree, I can’t really say it’s a deal breaker. Maybe for some, but the case size blends perfectly with all of the surrounding features from my point of view.

Dialing In on the Details

At a glance, the dial may seem relatively simple, but there’s a surprising amount of detail put into every aspect of it. I have always loved a good colorway, but I’m really looking for how that color looks in the dial texture. The SBGJ255 comes with a vertical grain texture that looks great from every angle, and it’s known to be inspired by shōji screens.

The LumiBrite hands and hour markers make sure you can read the time in all light conditions, and the hands feature the same polish as the case. I love the fact it offers a subtle sparkle in the light but doesn’t come off too flashy at all. 

Little color accents are another detail that I look for in a GS watch. The Grand Seiko logo on the dial comes in a light blue, and this same color is seen in the “GMT” text, inner 24-hour markers, and the GMT hand as well.

Even with all of these minor details, I would still consider the dial to be pretty minimalist. Grand Seiko comes with a wide variety of timepieces, but I generally prefer when they take a simpler approach to the design. There’s a certain harmony found in every GS watch, and the SBGJ255 is a leading example of how they execute this with precision.

I’m not particularly interested in blue colorways, but the hints of blue against the white dial contrast the overall simplicity. You can easily read the watch in standard or military time, and the GMT hand makes it easy to track changing time zones.

The Movement That Makes the SBGJ255 Tick

Part of what has made Grand Seiko such a sought-after watchmaker over time is their dedication to in-house movements. The Caliber 9S86 is what puts this watch in motion. It’s a high-frequency movement that ticks at 36,000 vibrations per hour (vph). This creates an extremely smooth motion for the seconds hand on top of impressive accuracy.

I’m easily impressed when it comes to GS movements, as their engineering is amazing across the board. What really gets me is watching the movement go to work as every finite component blends perfectly with the next. 

Wearers get the benefit of a 55-hour power reserve. For those who don’t know, the power reserve is a part of the watch’s reliable performance between windings. The mean daily rate is +5 to -3 seconds per day, and most people would consider this level of accuracy pretty exceptional.

I get pretty excited about the GMT functionality, as I don’t have a watch in my collection that has this feature. It allows for independent adjustment of the hour hand without affecting the flow of the seconds hand. For those who travel frequently, this can be a nice feature to make sure the watch is always on time.

If you get a chance to look closely, you’ll notice the titanium rotor of the movement has a gold tone to it. This comes from a special anodic oxidation process, giving the rotor a very distinct look.

It’s also important to note that the rotor is skeletonized, which gives you a better view of the decorated movement below it. Once I understood the collaborative performance features of this watch, I had to try it for myself. I’m not necessarily prone to a specific movement, but I do love the amount of engineering, design, and detail that can be marveled at any time you want.

Strap Qualities

I can see how the strap might look pretty basic to most people, but it’s more about the overall qualities that make it stand out. First and foremost, they always sell me on the high-intensity titanium. I’ll always prefer that over stainless steel, as it’s sturdy yet lightweight and undoubtedly beautiful.

Featuring a 19mm band width, it’ll feel pretty uniform around the wrist, and it tapers a bit down to 18mm. This helps to maintain proportion to the case so that one component isn’t taking the spotlight over another. Cohesiveness is a norm in Grand Seiko watches, but you can’t really tell until you try it on for yourself.

When I was able to put on the SBGJ255, it was immediately apparent that it was a great fit. At least for me, I didn’t feel like any adjustments needed to be made. The band is also equipped with screw links, as well as half links for proper sizing. However, a slight downside is that it doesn’t come built with micro-adjustments.

Aside from that, the folding clasp feels sturdy and secure, and it’s built with a seamless safety push-button release. If you simply aren’t a fan of the strap, you can easily swap it out, thanks to the drilled lugs. 

Finding replacement straps for GS watches seems to be a common challenge for me, but I rarely ever want to change in the first place. If you want the true Grand Seiko experience, I think it’s important to keep all of the original components.

Part of the classic look of the strap stems from their choice of polished intermediate links. This contrasts the primary brushed look of the strap, adding a little shine around your entire wrist. Of course, this isn’t overbearing, as Grand Seiko knows exactly how to accent a luxury watch.

How it Feels on the Wrist

Some of this will come down to personal preference, but in my opinion, it’s pretty easy to describe how this watch feels on the wrist. For me, it’s an immediate everyday wear. I can see how the white dial could be reserved for certain occasions, but it isn’t flashy enough to distract from casual outfits.

Although the watch dimensions are fitting for a variety of wrist sizes, it’s still optimal for a particular range. Those who have 6 to 7.5” wrists will have the best experience with the SBGJ255. Once again, with adjustments and a little wiggle room over 7.5”, the timepiece is more than suitable for many common wrist sizes.

I will agree that the thickness of the watch is noticeable. It isn’t something that can be ignored exactly, but it isn’t a detail that affects everyday wear. The watch easily hides behind my wrist cuffs and never catches on the edges due to its dimensions.

In the past, I was actually more inclined to swap straps out for leather, but polished titanium is starting to change that preference. There was a time when I would have thought this watch was too flashy. Now that I have a better understanding of Grand Seiko and their design process, I have immense appreciation for their stance on titanium.

Blending practical functionality and high-end beauty, the SBGJ255 can quickly become your new family heirloom. From my standpoint, the watch is more than viable for professional and casual settings. Overall, the day-to-day experience of wearing the SBGJ255 is more than comfortable and fashionable, all in one.

Pricing and Availability

Any Grand Seiko watch is bound to come with a sizable price tag, but they do range from affordable to expensive. Regarding the SBGJ255, I feel this watch hits a sweet spot somewhere in the middle. You can find the timepiece retailed at $8,500. On the other hand, you can look into pre-owned pricing, which can range from $4,000 to $7,500, depending on various factors.

When you compare this to other GS watches and luxury watches from other brands, the asking price is more than understandable. For me, my price cap is usually $10,000, as that’s a bit hard for me to warrant, but anything underneath that is more than enough.

I plan on keeping mine for quite a long time, considering the fact it’s a limited edition. With these types of watches, you never know how much harder they’ll be able to find as time goes on. Since the SBGJ255 is only a few years old at this point, it’s still pretty easy to source online.

Shopping online is always easy to do, but finding reputable watchmakers and retailers is a different story. The Grand Seiko name speaks for itself, but you want to find a retailer that has experience with the brand and the industry as a whole.

If you’re looking for a retailer that can exceed your expectations, working with Exquisite Timepieces is the only back-end support you need. Not only can you find the SBGJ255 in all its glory, but we will walk you through all of your questions and concerns. Buying a GS watch should be considered a lifelong commitment; finding a retailer that understands this is crucial.

Final thoughts

Grand Seiko may have a long line of watches and collections, but you don’t want to miss out on the SBGJ255 55th anniversary limited edition. These aren’t always common, and I’d argue this watch specifically is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. GS leans heavily into its heritage, and it can be seen and felt in every detail of the SBGJ255.

Don’t hesitate to reach out to us at Exquisite Timepieces. Whether you have questions regarding the SBGJ255 or another design, we’re more than happy to provide the guidance you’re looking for.

The landscape of luxury watchmaking is more popular than ever, boasting a global audience of consumers and everyday enthusiasts. Considering the industry’s popularity and the numerous watch brands on the market, it can be challenging to sort through it all. This is especially true if you’re more passive or new to luxury timepieces.

I find myself comparing many different options if I’m looking for a new addition to my collection. To do this effectively requires a little know-how in the mechanics and components you’d want to wear. This article will highlight 10 of the most popular watch brands in 2024, so you don’t have to get lost in the rabbit hole of the timepiece industry.

What Makes a Watch Brand Popular?

A great question nonetheless: a watch brand becomes popularized for numerous reasons. However, first and foremost, it generally stems from the quality of their products, as well as consistency and customer service. In the sections below, you will learn about some of the industry’s most prominent watchmakers with long-standing reputations. 

Prestige

It may be one of the hardest traits to harness in luxury watchmaking, but prestige definitely matters in this industry. Focusing on many subfactors such as craftsmanship, reputation, and overall heritage, prestige isn’t something that’s awarded from a great product alone.

The biggest brands in the watchmaking world worked for years to be able to claim prestige status. In the same vein, although these brands are known for their products, the organizations carry a strong focus on horological traditions.

Quality

As one might expect, luxury watchmakers are keen on quality, and one could argue they have to consider their reputation. I find myself resonating with quality more than any other element of a timepiece. It isn’t hard to get a hold of a mass-produced watch, but that’s nowhere near the same caliber. Not only does quality focus on the longevity of a watch, but also the beauty and traditional cultural reflection in every component.

Heritage

A word that many might overlook when searching for a luxury watch, integrating heritage is a must for any popular watch brand. This is a vital component of any watchmaker’s legacy, with many delivering decades of experience.

Hand-made craftsmanship and honoring tradition are vital for including heritage in any design. It’s also important to highlight innovation, considering the modern market comes with a new wave of interests and demands in watchmaking. 

Materials & Craftsmanship

There are many common materials that are usually a part of any high-end watch. While many of the quality factors mentioned so far tend to overlap, materials are a big selling point to me. For example, I love stainless steel and titanium, but I’m not a huge fan of reflective polish. Some people like that mirrored look, but I love a brushed finish that doesn’t draw too much attention.

Movement

This is a component that newcomers often overlook, but the movement is easily one of the most important factors to any watch. Aside from the fact that this is what drives everything about the watch, you’ll soon learn that movements come in many variations.

Differences such as mechanical and automotive movements, as well as unique design choices, help movements stand out on their own. Speaking for myself, I always look for the open caseback watches just so I can marvel at the movement on the inside.

10 Most Popular Watch Brands

If you were to ask anyone about their favorite watch brands, you’d likely get a wide range of answers. Aside from varying personal opinions, there are some brands that deliver a reputation that’s an undoubted fact. For newcomers and veterans alike, the following watch brands mentioned can easily cover your needs. 

Rolex

A name that commonly speaks for itself, Rolex is easily one of the most globally recognized luxury watchmakers in existence. This isn’t to say they don’t have their fair share of competition, but there are many reasons they sit at the top.

Founded back in 1905 by Alfred Davis and Hans Wilsdorf, the brand has churned out many iconic timepieces over the years. Some of the most notable include the Daytona and Submariner.

You won’t have to worry about quality when it comes to a Rolex. I’m a fan of their use of premium materials and how they utilize 18-karat gold. Moreover, the most common movement in a Rolex is a Caliber 3135. While the brand definitely has some flashy timepieces, I’m always more privy to their more muted designs and colorways.

Audemars Piguet

With its founding year dating back to 1875, you can say Audemars Piguet has had ample time on the market. I have always been drawn to the brand due to its approach to watch design. There are many traditional inclusions, of course, but the watchmaker has no issue driving innovation and style.

Blending advanced technology at every turn on top of unconventional engineering, an AP is something that should be seen as an heirloom. Some of the brand’s most recent eye-popping releases include the Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon and their Code 11.59 collection.

The brand is also known to carry a collaborative spirit with other luxury-focused brands. My favorite movement of theirs is the self-winding chronograph Caliber 2385. Although they aren’t always traditional in every sense of the word, I’ll always defend that Audemars Piguet has never lost touch with its roots.

Patek Philippe

Rich in history and known for timeless creations, Patek Philippe originated back in 1839. It might be hard to believe, but this luxury Swiss watch brand has a reputation that’s older than you or I. You can rely on a blend of traditional and modern qualities with engineering that’ll last longer than a single lifetime.

They utilize an in-house R&D department, which is a major catalyst in the brand’s ability to propel forward and adapt to changing times. More shockingly, the brand has produced less than one million timepieces since its inception, even though they’ve been around for nearly 200 years.

While you can find a long list of popular Patek watches, one of my favorites is the Calatrava model. Some might argue this design panders to a younger audience, but I’m solely focused on the visual and physical quality. Patek Philippe rotors are crafted in 21k or 22k gold, making the watch’s kinetic energy yield more efficient. Although Patek Philippe isn’t my first choice in my collection, I find that it’s one that can be respected and admired by anyone.

Richard Mille

This watchmaker may not have an extensive history compared to some others in this list, but they have found a way to stand tall in a short amount of time. The Richard Mille brand was founded in 2001 but quickly made a name for itself in the global watch market.

Many people lean toward the watchmaker due to their focus on a sportier look in their designs. Of course, this isn’t all you’ll find from Richard Mille, but their tonneau-shaped cases and unique dials help cement the brand’s unique style. 

The brand features a variety of movements, but my personal favorite touch is their take on skeletonized automatic movements. With only 5,000 watches produced per year and a high asking price on many of their models, this watchmaker exudes luxury from every angle.

Cartier

Featuring a special styling of bold geometry and sharp lines with every cut, Cartier designs are a statement piece for the most part. On an interesting note, that brand originally started out as a jewelry maker before shifting its focus to watchmaking over 50 years after its inception.

New and old alike, I’ve always loved the look of a Cartier, but I do find myself struggling to make a decision when shopping around. Not because of the many options available but because certain design choices they make are a bit too bold for my taste.

Nevertheless, many enthusiasts would argue that Cartier is always worth the asking price. I would say this is always debatable based on many factors, but the beauty and reliability of their designs are something that I can’t argue with. With varying mechanical, quartz, and solar-powered movements, you get a great mix of functionality and style. Between the Tank, Santos, and Ballon Bleu, Cartier has proven itself as a luxury watchmaker for a very long time.

Omega

Another watchmaker with over a century of experience, Omega, never falls short in their designs, in my opinion. Most enthusiasts in the market consider the brand’s first significant mark in watchmaking to stem from the world’s first mass-produced wristwatch.

Creating and accessing a luxury timepiece used to be a much more significant feat than how it’s seen in today’s world. Omega released the 19-Ligne back in 1894, which is commonly hailed as the standard in modern advancements for timekeeping fashion and technology. Over time, the brand has also utilized many materials, from steel to titanium, gold, and much more.

More recent creations that highlight the well-known Omega quality include the Omega Seamaster collection and Speedmaster. The watchmaker also likes to use automatic movements quite a bit. 

I’ve always found myself interested in their design approach with the Speedmaster. Omega may not be at the top of my list, but it’s one I hope to add to my collection one day. On a final note, many design aspects of Omega watches are great styling for those with sportier or universally more active lifestyles.

Tudor

Widely regarded as the sister brand to Rolex, the brain behind the Tudor luxury watch also comes from Hans Wilsdorf. Tudor was introduced in 1926 and has done quite well to carry itself as a standalone timepiece rather than a Rolex knockoff. I’m not one to judge watchmaking in that context, and I have never looked at Tudor in a negative light.

The brand has had its fair share of ups and downs, but once they unveiled the Black Bay collection in 2012, that’s when I really started paying attention. I quickly realized there’s plenty to love about the brand. Some of this pertains to in-house COSC-certified movements, plenty of unique designs, and a cost range that’s generous from my point of view.

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Part of what initially amazed me about Jaeger-LeCoultre is that the watchmaker has developed over 1,200 different calibers since its inception in 1833. They’ve clearly had plenty of time on the market, but their long-lasting dedication to continuous improvement and innovation made me take a second look.

Personally, I’m a fan of their use of titanium, as I always feel it should be seen as a new standard over stainless steel. Aside from personal preferences, you won’t have any issue finding meticulously engineered movements and a great mix of historical and modern designs.

Breitling

This watchmaker was founded in 1884 and has since built its reputation by becoming a staple to the luxury Swiss watch market. I’m fond of their approach to pilots and enthusiasts in aviation, as many relatable details can be seen in their various designs.

You can bet on the quality, too, as Breitling is known for its aviator-related functionalities, durability, and commitment to high standards. I feel one of their most iconic moments as a brand started with their Navitimer model in 1952. From their use of the SuperQuartz movement to durability craftsmanship and use cases in extreme conditions, a Breitling is built to last.

Longines

Boasting nearly two centuries in watchmaking, you can assume Longines knows a thing or two about luxury timepieces. A Swiss watchmaker with a global presence, Longines hasn’t skipped on quality since day one. The company started in 1832, and I became a fan of the watchmaker after discovering them through their previous affiliation with the Olympic Games.

The brand also introduced the world’s first chronograph, and another aspect that drew me in was their consistent use of titanium. While Longines has used several movement calibers in its history, I’m a fan of anything with a Caliber 360 in it. For those looking for several options, I’d suggest starting with the Master Collection.

The Bottom Line

Finding your first luxury watch can feel like diving into a rabbit hole you might never come out of. Mainly due to the many options available, but also based on the sentiments and options found by every luxury watchmaker.

This article helps to summarize the noise a bit and guide you towards a dedicated watchmaker you can count on.

Delivering a strong look that’s hard to ignore, the Grand Seiko SBGA481 is visually powerful, to say the least. The watch is a part of GS’s Sport Collection, and its contrasting features add to its unique profile.

This isn’t a luxury timepiece you’ll be able to hide very well. In my opinion, it isn’t made for casual wear. The GS SBGA481 has a certain aura about it that lets you know it’s meant for the right occasions. 

SBGA481 is inspired by the many strengths that lions are known for, and Grand Seiko visualized these sentiments in the SBGA481. If you’re looking for a one-of-a-kind Grand Seiko, the details in this review will easily strike your interest.

The History of the Tokyo Lion

Also referred to as the Tokyo Lion, the Grand Seiko SBGA481 was made available back in August of 2023. However, the case shape and dial of this watch were introduced in 2019 and have become a fan favorite ever since. I usually don’t gravitate toward larger watches, but the style of the SBGA481 is too pretty to pass up.

This infamous lion-inspired dial and case was originally only seen in GS limited editions. In the brand’s modern era, it’s now seen as a staple of the watchmaker’s Sport Collection. Of course, the lion emblem goes all the way back to 1960, as the brand took inspiration from the animal for their logo.

Taking from the precision and durability of lions, Grand Seiko found a way to translate their bold existence into a quality timepiece. You might also want to know that this watch isn’t a reissue and offers a brand-new twist to the case and dial of choice. 

The SBGA481 is a new kid on the block compared to many others, but it has already cemented itself as something special. I find myself getting lost in the choices Grand Seiko offers, but the SBGA481 is one that looks and feels like it’s worth the wait.

A Case You Won’t Forget

What makes the SBGA481 give off such a strong look is that every detail of the watch brings individual strength to the whole of the design. Looking at the case, the bezel takes inspiration from a GS diver’s watch yet remains stationary. The case as a whole delivers a sharp and angular design that isn’t common with most GS engineering.

For me, this is a big selling point, as the SBGA481 exudes a sharp look that is more than fitting for a professional setting. You get the reliability of high-intensity titanium, offering unmatched durability and lightweight on the wrist.

The dimensions of the case command a significant presence as it comes with a 44.5mm diameter, 50mm lug-to-lug, and 14.3mm thickness. For those who prefer a more sleek, form-fitting design, the SBGA481 might not be the best choice. Even for my own skinny wrists, I had to make some minor adjustments for this watch to even look remotely fitting.

I wouldn’t say I have the average wrist size, but the bold look of this case doesn’t look overbearing from my point of view. When you combine features such as the angular design, hairline brushing, and Zaratsu polish, every angle heightens the sharp aesthetic of the watch.

The dual-curved sapphire crystal protects the more finite details of the dial. This was a smart design choice that made me love the SBGA481 even more. Taking this approach with the crystal provides a non-protruding surface so as not to make the watch look too bulky. Moreover, I’m always praying for an open case back when trying a new Grand Seiko, and they didn’t disappoint.

The SBGA481 features an open caseback, where you can see the 9R65 Spring Drive movement in action. This also comes with a classic-style screw-down crown. With smart design choices for wearability, the case promises a low center of gravity that helps ensure it rests comfortably on the wrist. If you take a closer look, you’ll notice a unique approach with the shape of the lugs on this watch. 

Inspired by a lion’s claw, the lugs come with a sharper look, something that isn’t common with most GS watches. As usual, the Grand Seiko beauty of this watch can speak for itself. I’m a huge fan of the mirror-polishing effect the watch has from every angle. It shines without blinding you while delivering a bold presence in every setting.

The Lion Mane Inspired Dial

While each person is bound to have their favorite detail about this watch, most people are on the same page about the dial. It has a beautifully textured, almost opaline colorway. The textured brush strokes may seem random, but their aim is to resemble the flowing look of a lion’s mane. More interestingly, this dial design is reminiscent of the SBGA413 “Shunbun” but clearly brings something unique to the market.

There are many reasons that keep me coming back to Grand Seiko, and their efforts in symbolism are a big one. Carrying an undoubtedly bold aesthetic, the SBGA481 embodies the inner strength that lions are known for.

I have to say that the bolder hour and minute hands aren’t my favorite choice, but it makes sense considering the surrounding look of the watch. At least you have no issue with legibility, and the sharp angles of the hands among the Lumibrite make it easy to tell the time, regardless of the hands’ bulky design.

You can also find a touch of Lumibrite across the hour markers, as well as the bezel, making it easy to check the time in low light. I’m very appreciative of the anti-reflective coating of the sapphire crystal. This is a big factor in what helps the dial seem so clear and bright.

With bold hour markers and clearly visible minute track, you won’t ever have trouble navigating the larger hands. At a glance, they may seem grandiose, but the surrounding design elements make it all easy to track accurately. Although the dial colorway stands out on its own, its contrast with the titanium and varying finishes make it pop even more.

I find myself staring at the dial from different angles just to see the detail in every brush stroke. Something you may not immediately notice is the red accents surrounding the dial. Don’t let online images fool you, as these red accents are much more muted in person. I understand why you might prefer a more open-face dial, but I personally love all of the bells and whistles.

On a few final notes, the SBGA481 dial also provides a date window at 3 o’clock, as well as a 72-hour power reserve indicator. Even the power reserve offers some contrasting design choices that give the dial some added depth.

Smooth Movements and Overall Functionality

The component that powers the visual movement of this timepiece is the Caliber 9R65 Spring Drive movement. Not only does this movement promise a smooth and precise second-hand movement, but it’s also built with a tri-synchro regulator. What this does is combine electrical, mechanical, and electromagnetic power for regulation.

Although I’m a fan of a nice ticking watch, the seamlessness of this type of movement is something to marvel at. With the 9R65, you get an average precision of ±15 seconds per month, and the high torque of the movement is what makes the bulkier hands possible.

This may not have much to do with mechanical aspects, but I love the look of the movement through the watch case back. You get a glimpse of the jewels that are built-in, offering a contrasting vibrance that’s a sight to see.

Another part of this movement that amazes me is that it’s crafted from 200 individual components in-house, by hand. I can only imagine how much engineering and patience this took, and it’s a niche detail that made me want to look into the SBGA481 further.

Keep in mind that this movement isn’t necessarily new to Grand Seiko, as it has been a part of their watchmaking for over 20 years. Nearly 30 years of research went into this movement, with 600 prototypes being a part of the process. Being powered solely by a mainspring is another key detail that drew me to this watch. 

The nuances in the design of this movement make the watch more of a talking piece when it comes up in conversation. Once I got an in-depth look at the engineering of this watch, I just had to keep learning more. The more you discover, the more beautiful this watch becomes.

Grand Seiko’s Matching Quality in the SBGA481 Strap

First and foremost, Grand Seiko won me over by opting for a titanium bracelet. I’ve never been a fan of heavy watches. They can tilt on the wrist and just feel bothersome on the day-to-day. Regardless of the bulky nature of the SBGA481, the strap helps it maintain a cozy yet lightweight feel.

It features a combination of mainly brushed surfaces with polished details, further accenting the angular shape of the case, in my opinion. The clasp comes with the classic GS logo, and it’s a twin-trigger foldover clasp. You get three micro-adjustment holes, which is pretty convenient for most people. Even though it isn’t a major adjustment, it could be just enough to not need a different strap entirely.

Interestingly, the watch comes with a diver’s extension, considering it doesn’t match the lack of functionality in the bezel. The 23mm lug width isn’t the most popular size for strap changes, but the design compensates with the micro-adjustments. Keep in mind that you’ll size the bracelet with push pins, which is a common trait of titanium Grand Seiko watches.

The sizing of the bracelet doesn’t make strap changes impossible, but I’d say the band should be left as is. It’s the perfect match for the case and offers a surprising level of comfort, making all-day wear pretty easy. 

I can see that GS did their best to blend the aesthetics of the case and strap, but it’s a little off-putting to me. From an overhead view, the case still looks a little too bulky for the strap, but that’s just my point of view. It still looks great, nonetheless, but it’s difficult to overlook the perceived gaps in sizing between the strap width and case size.

The On-Wrist Experience With the SBGA481

What’s said about the impressive beauty of this watch’s design is true. Most people wouldn’t argue with that, but I do agree with varying sentiments. While it stands as an excellent sports watch, I’d say it comes with a niche set of use cases. For the most part, your options would be stuck to sports or professional attire. Even then, the colorway of the dial may be a bit too flashy for the office.

That’s just a personal standpoint, and I can also see why someone would disagree with those points. Nevertheless, the relatively lightweight feel and angular design are what make this watch stand out to me. The dial might catch your eye at first, but for me, it’s the contrasting mirror-like angles of the case.

Although there’s plenty to show off about this watch, it isn’t one I’d take out on a daily basis. It’s more than comfortable for daily wear, but I’d rather put this one on for special occasions. Regardless of my naturally skinny wrists, the bold diameter of this watch will make it look sizable to anyone.

The optimal wrist size for this watch is around 7.5”, but the micro-adjustments make it easy for surrounding sizings as well. From a dimensions standpoint, the watch is clearly well-balanced. However, as I stated earlier, I feel the angular design somewhat clashes with the strap for me. 

This is likely the case because I’m personally not familiar with wearing such an angular case, but that’s just a design note that comes to mind. At the end of the day, I’d say the SBGA481 is well worth the investment, but of course, that’s another talking point on its own.

SBGA481 Pricing and Availability

At retail, you’ll find the Grand Seiko available for $10,400. That might sting for some, but it’s an understandable asking price considering the components and engineering. This is on top of the design details, the inspiration behind the case and dial, and many other details. On the other hand, if you’re looking for pre-owned pricing, that’s roughly found within the range of $7,400 and $9,000.

Of course, pricing is bound to vary over time due to many factors, but cost isn’t the only consideration when it comes to this timepiece. Where you source your authentic Grand Seiko watches is an equally important topic to discuss.

To keep it simple, you want to choose a retailer that has historical experience with the brand and the industry as a whole. In short, this is the core of how Exquisite Timepieces operates, where you can find an SBGA481 of your own. You won’t have to worry about quality, reliability, or customer service when working alongside Exquisite Timepieces.

Final Thoughts

At a glance, the Grand Seiko SBGA481 looks a bit large, but don’t judge until you wrap it around your wrist. You’ll be surprised at how good it looks on different wrist sizes without looking too bulky. It’s meant to offer a bold stance, and I’d say it’s a stellar choice for anyone who’s a fan of that sporty, business-casual look.

If you’d like to learn more about the SBGA481 and other Grand Seiko watches, spend some time with Exquisite Timepieces to help guide your decision-making.