In the watch world, expensive and Rolex are two words that belong together. They are not synonymous as plenty of other expensive watches can make even a Rolex seem affordable, but every Rolex is expensive. Before the watch market boom, there were some examples that could be had relatively affordably, like a vintage Air-King, but even then, Rolex has always been an aspirational brand.
Like most things in life, there are varying levels of madness. Not every Rolex is the cost of a luxury vehicle, but some certainly are. I would consider my own comfort level as just touching the entry point to the Rolex world. I have dabbled slightly but have always been on the more reasonable (although my wife would disagree) spectrum. One of the fun things about this hobby is that we don’t always have to act with reason.
Sure, my financial situation may dictate that I don’t get to dip my feet into the world of uber luxury, but that can’t stop a guy from dreaming and writing about it. In this article, we are throwing reason and affordability out of the window and diving right into the most expensive Rolex watches you can buy!
Why are Rolex Watches so Expensive?
There are few questions that will divide the watch community quite like why Rolex watches are so expensive. From one perspective, they are decent watches hyped up by their own over-inflated history and hype marketing. From the other perspective, they are the pinnacle of precision watchmaking, known for their impeccable attention to detail and quality craftsmanship.
The answer likely falls somewhere in the middle of these 2 extremes. Combine that with some economics 101, and the picture becomes pretty clear. Rolex watches are so expensive because they create a quality product and market it well, and customers will pay the asking price or even over the asking price. They’re not doing anything significantly different from other watch brands, they just happen to do it all incredibly well.
Rolex Watches with Highest Retail Price
In the world of Rolex, there are few terms that are as meaningless as retail price. That being said, we need a place to start, and the retail price seems like as good as any. Keep in mind that even if you are a crypto investor or the CEO of a tech start-up, you probably won’t be able to simply walk into an AD and hand them your money to walk out with one of these watches. This is Rolex we’re talking about after all, nothing is ever that easy!
The Rolex Daytona hardly needs an introduction. The once-overlooked chronograph in the Rolex collection has recovered nicely from its NASA rejection roots to become the hardest to get watch in the world.
The stainless steel variants of this timepiece are great watches that earn their owner instant clout in any watch circle, but this Ice Platinum example is a whole other level of flex. The 40mm case dimension is consistent with the steel variant, as is the overall design and Cerachrom bezel insert. The Platinum case and bracelet material, as well as the ice blue and brown color scheme, are where this watch differentiates itself cosmetically.
The 4131 caliber movement receives a slight cosmetic upgrade with a new gold rotor and more refined finishing, while the 72-hour power reserve and +2/-2 accuracy remain. In many ways, this watch is not different from the more affordable stainless-steel variant, but much like the platinum case, this one carries some weight.
You would be hard-pressed to find a watch that is synonymous with power as the Rolex Day-Date. Accompanying the wrist of presidents and high level business executives alike, the Rolex Day-Date has become one of the most aspirational watches in the entire Rolex lineup. Unlike the Daytona, there are no stainless-steel variants for us mere mortals.
The MSRP of this watch is simply based on the type and amount of case material used. In the case of Day-Date, the highest MSRP has been given to the larger 40mm case in platinum. This watch is available in several dial variations that feature a day and date indicator and are powered by the caliber 3255 in-house movement.
The signature look of the Day-Date complication has been imitated by many brands, but there is no doubt that when you wear the 40mm Rolex Day-Date in platinum, you are wearing the real McCoy.
There are few watches that have truly surprised me over the last 5 years quite like the Rolex Daytona “Le Mans”. For one, it was completely unexpected and secondly, it was a not-so-subtle nod to the past. Rolex is a brand known for constantly looking forward when it comes to design, and this “Le Mans” limited edition took heavy inspiration from the Paul Newman Daytonas of the 1960s and 1970s (more on them later).
This version carries over a lot of the design language and mechanics from the Ice Daytona mentioned earlier, but the vibe is completely different. The black Cerchrom bezel with a red highlight at 100, a nod to the 100th anniversary of Le Mans, and reverse panda dial configuration give a perfect vintage aesthetic. Although recently discontinued, this watch was never really available for everyday people, and the 6x second hand prices reflect this.
The Rolex Sky-Dweller is considered by many to be the most complicated watch that Rolex currently makes. The annual calendar and 24 hour disc help to provide some complicated watchmaking on a blueprint not all that different from the Rolex Datejust. While the fluted bezel of the Datejust is simply a design element of the watch, Rolex utilizes this bezel to help control the Ring Command system, a unique bezel-turning system that allows you to interface with your watch without using the crown.
Although available in stainless steel, the 42mm Sky-Dweller reaches its full potential in precious metal. The Everose example on the jubilee bracelet gives an equally complicated aesthetic to the watchmaking within thanks to the caliber 9002. While the Sky-Dweller may be the newest family of watches on this list, the use of complication is a welcomed return to form some of their vintage masterpieces.
The Rolex Yacht-Master is a watch that many people struggle to place. It’s not a more capable Submariner, that honor goes to the Sea-Dweller and Deep Sea line. It’s not a dress watch like the Sky-Dweller or Day-Date. This watch is somewhere in between. The Rolex Yacht Master is powered by the robust Caliber 3255 movement, features a larger 42mm case, and comes paired with a rubber strap.
All of these features help to give this watch a sportier aesthetic, while the Gold case and detailed construction of the Oysterflex rubber strap help to differentiate this watch into a more luxurious offering. Despite the possible identity crisis and comparably lower MSRP, the Rolex Yacht-Master is a true contender for any watch enthusiast’s Peacock watch.
What’s the Most Expensive Rolex Ever Sold?
As mentioned earlier, the MSRP of a Rolex watch is generally just the beginning. While these watches all carry an MSRP that most of us will never dream of attaining, we have barely scratched the surface of what is possible in the Rolex world. So what is the most expensive Rolex watch ever sold? That honor goes to a heavily used Rolex Daytona, reference 6239, in stainless steel.
The watch had the famous Paul Newman dial layout and sold for a mere $17,752,500! This watch was no ordinary Paul Newman dial Daytona, as this, of course, was the actual Paul Newman Daytona. This auction reached its meteoric height in the story associated with the watch. Previously thought to have been lost forever, this watch surfaced in 2017, caught the watch community by storm, and shed some light on this fun little hobby for the rest of the world to see.
That was the first time I read about a watch in a mainstream publication, but it was far from the last. I credit this auction for giving this hobby the credibility it needed to expand beyond the forums and into the real world.
Closing Thoughts
Well, it’s safe to say Rolex can get pretty expensive! Whether you are looking at MSRP, the Gray Market, or trying your luck at a once in a lifetime high profile auction, these little toys on our wrists can break the bank! The good news for us enthusiasts is that there are several options for how to enjoy this hobby. You don’t need to buy a Rolex to be a watch enthusiast, but if it is what you have your heart set on, it’s possible.
Find yourself a side hustle and start saving every spare dollar you can. Look at me, I only need to write 131 more watch articles and I’ll be on my way! I am just hoping my name comes up on the waitlist before I run out of things to talk about. Happy watch hunting!
There are few documents that can titillate the senses quite like a glossary. Hard not to have your heart pound out of your chest as you excitedly turn the page, waiting to move onto another technical description, full of words you now need to look up just to grasp the full understanding of what you are reading.
THIS is not that glossary! For one, I am not nearly smart enough to write THAT type of glossary, and more importantly, I only have 1500 words to catch your attention, define 14 fundamental aspects of a watch, and wrap a pretty bow on all of it.
Someone once told me that it takes a very smart person to describe a complex subject matter in a simple way that anyone can understand, and I am writing this post with the full intention of proving them wrong!
Why There Are So Many Watch Parts
Why is the world of watchmaking so complex? To put it simply, because it can be. One of the aspects of a watch that pulls on our heart strings (and purse strings) the most is complexity.
Does a watch need a chronograph? Nope, but it’s cool! Dive bezel? Nope, but we sure do love them! At the end of the day, these tiny mechanical marvels on our wrist earn our hard-earned watch enthusiast dollars because of their complexity, whether it is how the dial plays with the hands or how the minute repeater helps us flex to our watch nerd friends.
All Watch Parts Explained
Let’s take a look at 14 of the basic components of a timepiece as I try my very best to keep it brief.
Case
The case of a watch is the component that houses the dial and movement of the timepiece. It can be made of an almost limitless variety of materials, although stainless steel is by far the most common. The case provides the structural rigidity of the watch and helps to aid in the robustness of the timepiece.
Caseback
Working in conjunction with the case, the caseback seals up the back of the watch and protects the movement. The caseback is generally made of the same material as the case, but a sapphire crystal has become a popular style, allowing the user to enjoy the view of their new mechanical marvel in action.
There are different ways for a caseback to attach to the case, with more basic watches utilizing a pressure fit, or snap-on, mechanism, while more robust watches utilize a screw-on method to help aid the water resistance.
Bezel
Almost every watch has a bezel, but there are 2 different types. The first is a plain bezel. This style of bezel almost appears to be a continuation of the case but is removed while replacing the crystal. The second type of bezel is a functional bezel.
These bezels vary in function, with the divers style being the most popular, followed by the 12-hour GMT and Tachymeter scale for a chronograph. These bezels, whether fixed or rotating, serve a function for the timepiece.
Bezel Insert
If you have a functional bezel on your watch, it is very likely that you have a bezel insert. This insert is a replaceable component that provides the information that gives the bezel its functionality.
This could be the 60-minute countdown scale on a dive bezel or the 12-hour markers for a GMT. These come in several different materials, with aluminum bezel inserts prevalent on watches prior to the 2010s and more durable ceramic bezels becoming a staple of both luxury and spec monsters alike.
Lugs
The lugs of the watch are what connect the case of the watch to the strap or bracelet. Although some watches have a lugless design, such as the ever-popular Apple Watch, most watches utilize lugs in their design.
Although many consider lugs to simply be an aspect of the watch case, they deserve some attention as their own element. Watch lugs can strongly influence the wearing experience of your timepiece. A small diameter watch with long lugs will wear much larger than the case dimension suggests, think Nomos, while the opposite is also true, think Seiko.
Crown
The crown of the watch is often the part that we interact with the most on our timepiece. Often composed of the same material as the case, the crown is our direct connection to the watch movement via a watch stem.
The crown presents itself as a small bump, often shaped like a crown with ridges, that will hang over the edge of the case. By pulling the crown, you will be able to set the time and, depending on the movement powering your watch, provide power to the movement of your watch.
Crystal
The crystal of a watch is our window to the dial, allowing us to tell the time. These are made of several transparent materials such as mineral glass on less expensive watches, sapphire on modern higher-end watches, or plexiglass on vintage or vintage-inspired watches.
All of these materials have their different benefits, but they all serve the same purpose of allowing us to actually see the time while simultaneously protecting the dial from dust, debris, and impact (damn doorknobs!).
Dial
The dial of the watch is the plate that displays the information of the timepiece. These vary from very simple, such as the Tudor Ranger, to breathtakingly beautiful, such as the Grand Seiko Snowflake. The watch dial is the backdrop to all of the information displayed on the watch, regardless of how simple or complex it is.
Hands
The simplest way to think of watch hands is that they are what tell the time. In reality, it’s not quite that simple. The hands are responsible for giving us information. That information is determined by the regulation of the movement but can come in many forms.
By way of a pinion through the dial to the gears in the movement, the watch hands allow us to see what our watch is actually doing. Hands can vary from basic to beautifully finished and are often a calling card of a given brand or model.
Hour Indices
The hour indices are what give meaning to the hour and minute hands on a dial. These help to mark certain increments of time around the dial and give context to what these hands are actually pointing to. Hour indices can be printed, applied, or even cut out depending on the style of the watch. While applied indices are often sought after, when done right, any style can help elevate a timepiece.
Minute Track
While not present on every watch, a minute track can help to aid in the precision of a timepiece. A minute track follows the circumference of the dial and marks off 1-minute increments. This allows all of us watch nerds to properly set our timepieces to the exact minute as opposed to a guess. While not necessary for a timepiece, these, like the indices, help give further context to what the hands are presenting.
Subdials
More complex watches will feature information beyond just the time. Subdials are a simple way to present additional information to the user. These are generally cut out of the dial, or at least marked with a color change, and will feature their own hands, indices, and markings to help define the information being presented. These can vary from sub seconds counters all the way to chronographs or GMT indicators.
Date Window
Love em or hate em, many watches have a date function on them. This date function allows their user to not only tell the time but the date as well. The date window is a cut out on the dial that allows the date wheel, which is attached to the backside of the movement under the dial, to display itself to the user.
There are few triggers that will set off a watch nerd, I mean enthusiast, like the placement of a date, and is best to avoid bringing up while at watch meetups or in forums.
Strap
The strap is responsible for securing the case of the watch to your wrist. The strap can be integrated, such as the AP Royal Oak, or secured through the lugs. Many sports watches will come fitted with a bracelet composed of the same material as the case, while dress watches often come paired with a custom-crafted piece of leather.
While many people will keep a watch on the original strap, the watch came on for its entire life, one of watch enthusiasm’s great joys comes in the form of swapping from one to another. While I love my watches on their original bracelet, I can’t help but throw them on a NATO strap occasionally.
Conclusion
So there it is; 14 definitions of common watch components. Are watches complex? Absolutely, but you don’t need to know everything about them to have fun. If you are just getting into the hobby, this list here is enough to make you dangerous. Happy watch hunting!
The year was 2020, and the vibes, as we used to say, were far from immaculate. The nation was paralyzed by the unknown while simultaneously infatuated with a man known as the Tiger King.
As a watch enthusiast, I could hardly be bothered by the chaos of a global pandemic as I had my own crosses to bear (although I did get caught up in the Tiger King craze…..weird times!) I had important research to do! All of a sudden, “What watch would you wear in an apocalypse?” seemed a lot more pressing and a lot less hypothetical.
While searching for the piece that would accompany me through anything, I was immediately interested in a watch that would soon be released and set the watch world into a frenzy. The Seiko SPB143.
It was far from the first time that Seiko released a reintroduction of their iconic 62MAS design, but it was the one that got it right. I immediately pressed pause on Netflix and did what any self-respecting watch enthusiast would do: I became obsessed!
A few months later, this watch was in my hands, and I was ready to go on some adventures, albeit socially distanced. Was this watch the perfect piece I dreamt it would be? Did I finally achieve Watch Nirvana and find my forever watch? Spoiler alert: No and no. Let’s take a look at this darling of the watch community nearly 4 years later and relive the journey.
About The Seiko SPB143
Before jumping into the recreation, we need to spend a little time appreciating the original. By 1965, many of the dive watches we know and love today were already in existence. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Rolex Submariner, and Omega Seamaster had already solidified themselves as the premier tools for professional divers.
At the same time, the Zodiac Seawolf, as well as many other Skin diver watches, had carved out their own niche in the recreational side of the growing dive community.
Seiko introduced their first dive watch, model 62MAS, which provided 150M of water resistance and a 37mm case dimension. The Gray dial and black rotating bezel helped to give this watch a unique look against its black-dialed competitors, but in terms of Seiko Divers, this was a very uniform design.
It wasn’t until years later that the signature 4 O’Clock crown and cushion cases of the Seiko watches we know today became prevalent. The 62MAS is where it started, and if you are looking for a Seiko dive watch that looks and feels familiar, this is the design you’re after.
Case & Materials
The Seiko SPB143 is a 40.5mm dive watch closely resembling the color scheme of the original 62MAS. The Gray dial and 120-click black steel bezel help to give this watch a neutral color scheme that, outside of a formal event, never feels out of place. The look and dimension of this watch are what set it apart from previous iterations.
4 years ago, a modestly sized Seiko dive watch was a bit of a unicorn, especially at 13.2mm thick and 47mm lug to lug. Although slightly behind the trend of competitors like Tudor, this is the watch that opened up the likes of other small wrist-friendly watches, such as the SPB313.
Movement
The movement of the SPB series of watches is the Seiko 6R35, an In-House movement featuring a 70-hour power reserve and a surprisingly wide range of acceptable daily variance at -15/+25 seconds per day.
I have owned several Seiko watches featuring this movement, and my feelings are somewhat mixed. If you are coming from a Sellita or ETA comparable movement, the accuracy will feel like a bit of a disappointment. What you lose in accuracy, however, you more than make up for in robustness.
This movement is the epitome of a workhorse and will more than likely outlive you with even the slightest of care. Given the apocalyptic scenario, this criteria seemed far more important than a few seconds of accuracy at the time.
Dial
Adorning this watch, you will see Seiko’s legendary LumiBrite lume and dial finishing much more fitting of a watch 2x or 3x the price. The polished indexes are accented by baton-style hands featuring both mirrored and brushed finishes. The case finishing feels more industrial than something like what you would find with a Black Bay from Tudor.
The Diashield coating provides an extra layer of protection, ensuring that, unlike the Black Bay, this Seiko will look this great 6 months or even 6 years down the line. The 200M of water resistance and date, either with or without lume plot given the year of production, ensure that you have an ISO-Certified dive watch capable of far more than 99.9% of us will ever throw at it.
Strap Options
The watch was originally sold with a solid stainless steel bracelet featuring the Diashield coating and a large diver’s extension. Combine this with the fact that the bracelet hardly tapered and had a very slight gap where the end link met the lugs, and I’d say this is where Seiko took a slight shortcut. This bracelet is usable and certainly better than anything you’d see on a Seiko dive watch from 5 previous, but it fell kind of flat for a $1,200 watch.
Thankfully, this can be easily remedied with a cheap spring bar tool and one of the thousands of great NATO, rubber, or even leather straps (I’m not judging….just kidding, of course, I am judging). There are even several third-party bracelets with fitted end links that, although the color will be ever so slightly lighter, thanks to the lack of Diashield, fix a lot of the concerns with the OEM bracelet.
The Seiko SPB143 is a watch that I feel everyone needs to try. Is it perfect? Far from it. But will it make you question whether or not you need to spend more on a watch? I think it will. The level of watch sickness you find yourself inflicted with will determine if that feeling is fleeting or not.
If you are looking for a tool watch that will be there through thick and thin and become a partner in your everyday adventures, the SPB143 will be hard to beat. If you are looking for a watch to help substitute the desire for another watch you have had your eye on, this will more than likely fall short of those expectations (in all honesty, even the watch you have had your eye on will fail to meet the unrealistic expectations we often put on them).
Should You Buy A Seiko SPB143?
Let’s pick back up with my story. Tiger King has been resumed, and I am back living my day-to-day life, albeit with a face mask and a newfound case of paranoia anytime someone comes near me.
The Seiko SPB143 is accompanying me on most of my adventures (hiking, kayaking, biking, day drinking, all of the hobbies I excelled in during the pandemic), and for the most part, I was happy. If you keep this watch on your wrist and forget about it, it’s hard not to love.
Unfortunately, this is where my story takes a turn from the happily-ever-after I expected. I found a new watch. This new watch had a better movement, slimmer proportions, a significantly better bracelet, and its own 2020 hype moment.
That watch is, of course, the Black Bay 58 with the new blue dial. I foolishly thought that there was a world in which both of these beautiful dive watches could exist in my 3-watch collection. As it turns out I was wrong.
I found myself favoring the Tudor for most of my adventures, and my one prized Seiko suddenly started collecting dust. Maybe it was the 3x price of the Tudor that made me feel as though I had to wear it, or perhaps it was just the fact that it solved many of the minor faults I found in the SPB143. Either way, a few short days later, I no longer owned what I once considered the perfect Seiko.
So, if it wasn’t for me, who exactly is the Seiko SPB143 for? This watch is an incredible option for someone looking for a watch with which to experience life. If the adventure is more important than the watch’s accuracy on your wrist while you do it, then you’ll love the watch’s robustness. As much as I wanted to be this type of enthusiast, I simply fell short.
Seiko SPB143 Alternatives
When it was released in 2020, the SPB143 was a game changer. Its modest but thoughtfully considered design made the case and dial feel premium for a watch of $1,200. There was almost no competition or alternatives to consider. A lot has changed in four years.
Japanese rival Citizen has introduced their own compact and robust dive watches, while the Swiss have managed to produce some great affordable alternatives thanks to the power of the Swatch group. As it turns out however, the Seiko SPB143’s greatest competition comes from within in the form of other Seiko dive watches.
In watch enthusiast circles, Seiko is known for doing 2 things extraordinarily well. First is creating stunning watch dials at affordable prices, and the second is releasing limited edition watches. Thankfully, with the SPB421, Seiko leans into both of their strengths to deliver a watch that is fundamentally the same as the SPB143, yet so different.
The textured blue dial was designed to pay homage to the icy surface of the Alaska Moulins, which may or may not make you feel a certain way. If the creative marketing team at Seiko doesn’t have you sold, the Grand Seiko inspired textured blue dial certainly will!
Blue not your color? The Seiko SPB423 delivers the same functionality as the Seiko SPB143, with the dial texture of the previously mentioned SPB421, but delivers it in a stunning light to dark gray gradient dial. If you love the functionality of the SPB143 but want a dial that provides a more interesting finish while still remaining neutral, this may be the version you are after.
In 2024, Seiko did something that very few watch enthusiasts saw coming. They provided a refresh to the 62MAS reintroduction of their Prospex line. The new SPB453 is very similar to the SPB143 line while sporting a more discrete 4:30 date window and a traditional black dial and bezel combo. The case is slightly reduced down to 40mm, while the lugs are slightly shorter, and the thickness is dropped down to 13mm. You’d be hard-pressed to pick the two apart in a lineup. That is, of course, until you slap the watch on.
The stock bracelet, while not perfect, is a significant update and solves many of the minor annoyances with the original. If you are in the market for a Seiko SPB143 but want the most current spec with a refined execution, the SPB453 is an excellent option.
Thanks to Seiko’s unwavering commitment to provide a dive watch for every watch enthusiast regardless of their personal style preference, we have the SPB455. This watch carries over all of the refinements of the previously mentioned SPB453 but adds a touch of gilt, and the dial and bezel are slightly muted to a gray charcoal color. There is no doubt that this iteration has its sights set directly on the original Tudor Black Bay 58, and given the price savings, it is certainly a worthy competitor.
The Seiko SJE101 Marinemaster is the most interesting 62Mas reintroduction produced today. The refined styling matches more closely to a Rolex Submariner, While the pricing, at roughly $2,800, is a little more than 2x the SPB series and significantly less than anything produced by Rolex or even Tudor for that matter.
The 6L37 movement powering this watch is a nice improvement from the 6R35 in the SPB143, but the accuracy is still noticeably behind anything produced by Hans Wilsdorf and company. If you look past the accuracy of the movement, this watch may be the biggest sleeper entry-level luxury watch on the market today!
Conclusion
So, there you have it! A long-winded recap of my adventure-ready watch, along with a few alternatives that certainly would have piqued my interest if they were around in 2020. The SPB143 is still a watch that I would recommend to any watch enthusiast. It is uncomplicated and really good at what it aims to be good at.
The details that pushed me away from Seiko and into the arms of their Swiss rivals are trivial to most people, especially those with more sense than money. Thanks to my unnecessary Tudor upgrade, I have proven myself to no longer have either of those!
Whether you are a seasoned collector or just getting your footing in the hobby, there is one thing that we can all agree on. The Tissot watch company is absolutely on fire right now. They are at the top of almost every list for value for money and have released hit after hit in the past several years.
Despite a history dating back to 1853, Tissot has not always had the same level of cache they currently own. Being part of the Swiss watch conglomerate SWATCH Group has, in many ways, helped them while also allowing them to get lost in the shuffle.
Tissot’s brand positioning within the SWATCH Group is very congested, to say the least. Hamilton, Certina, Mido, and even some Longines models are all battling in the same category to earn your entry-level luxury dollars. Because they are owned by the same group and are in the same price range, there tends to be a lot of overlap between models.
Thankfully over the last few years, the brands within the SWATCH Group have started to dive more into their historical collections and let their unique design language come through. No brand has had more success with this new distinctiveness than Tissot.
One thing that many of these brands still tend to share, however, is the use of SWATCH Group-owned ETA and their industry-leading movement manufacturing capabilities. If you compare watches from these brands, many will sport a Powermatic 80 automatic movement.
These movements represent a new direction for the entry-level luxury segment, and when you combine this technology with the segment-leading design, the reasons for Tissot’s surge in popularity become clear to see.
About the Powermatic 80 Movement
What exactly makes this Powermatic 80 movement so special? The main architecture for this movement is based on the tried and true ETA 2824. There are a few differences that help set this new movement apart. As the name suggests, the power reserve of this new movement has been extended to 80 hours from the 38 hours found on a standard ETA 2824.
ETA achieved this increased power reserve by improving their spring barrel and decreasing the beat frequency of the movement from 4Hz, or 28,800 beats per hour, to 3Hz, or 21,600 beats per hour.
This decreased beat frequency utilizes less energy from the movement to accurately measure the time. Historically speaking, this lower beat frequency had a less than a favorable consequence of less accurate timing. Thankfully for Tissot, ETA was able to help counteract this effect with one of the other enhancements to the Powermatic 80.
These Powermatic 80 movements are laser-regulated in the factory. This does have the unfortunate consequence of making watchmaker regulation considerably more difficult, but if the last few years are anything to go by, the accuracy has been astounding!
The Powermatic 80 is an incredibly accurate movement (why wouldn’t it be; it’s been regulated by actual lasers!) that does not see any accuracy depreciation from its lower beat frequency. Another enhancement in the Powermatic 80 movement is in its magnetic resistance.
ETA went through great effort to ensure that these movements would be more reliable for the casual consumer. The movements utilize several anti-magnetic components in the construction of the movement.
This is in addition to relying on a silicon or Nivachron hairspring to transfer power from the barrel and to the escapement. Silicon and Nivachron hairsprings have traditionally been reserved for more mainstream luxury brands such as Omega, but thanks to ETA, the technology has finally been adopted by the entry-level.
History of the Powermatic 80
With how technically impressive the Powermatic 80 movement is, even by today’s standards, it is hard to believe that it has been around for a decade. In late-2012, ETA first introduced the movement that would later go on to shape the entry-level market for the SWATCH Group. Being introduced in the Tissot Ballade, which features a relatively safe dress watch aesthetic, the capabilities of the movement were often the highlight of the timepieces themselves.
Now that Tissot has begun to push out of their comfort zone in terms of design, the Powermatic 80 has quickly become what ETA had hoped for when they designed it over 10 years ago; the workhorse movement standard.
Now that we know a little bit more about the Powermatic 80 movement let’s take a look at some of the great timepieces that bear this amazing mechanical marvel. Although other brands from the SWATCH Group have utilized the movement as well, we are going to focus our attention on Tissot, the Swiss watch brand we’re all rooting for!
When kicking off any list, it always helps to start with a bang! The Tissot PRX is that bang. Originally based on a quartz model from 1978, the Tissot PRX was re-released in 2020, sporting a true to the original quartz movement.
It was immediately apparent that Tissot had struck a nerve with this release. Integrated steel sports watches were having a moment (still are, to be honest), and Tissot gave everyone, regardless of their budget or ability to get Authorized Dealer allocation, an opportunity to see what all the fuss was about. A year after the quartz model release, Tissot threw the watch community a bone and released the PRX with an automatic movement.
The Tissot PRX, ref. T137.407.11.041.00, sports the same integrated bracelet design that made the 2020 release a hit. The 40mm tonneau style case allows this watch to look good on a multitude of wrist sizes. The style shares many similarities with more famous integrated sports watches, but given the 1978 history, these watches are given a pass on taking inspiration.
The blue textured dial has a beautiful appearance and punches significantly above its weight. The Tissot PRX is one of the watches that will define the decade. Although Tissot could have easily given this watch a significant price hike, the $675 is out of line. Thankfully for us watch enthusiasts, it’s in our favor.
There is no doubt that the Rolex DateJust is one of the most popular watches of all time. The simple formula of robust construction mixed with a style that is casual enough for jeans but can also be dressed up when needed is one that many watch companies try to emulate.
Some have had better success than others, but few have reached the mainstream success of Tissot with their Gentleman line. The Tissot Gentleman, ref. T127.407.11.051.00, is a simple 40mm stainless steel watch with a date function.
Although many color options are available, black is the most versatile for everyday wearability. This watch closely resembles the look of a Rolex DateJust with a smooth bezel and Oyster bracelet, but it also does something that Rolex can not do.
The Tissot Gentleman comes in at a price of $795 and is regularly available for purchase. When considering the everyday versatility, there might not be a reason to purchase another watch (but let’s not kid ourselves).
When dealing with a watch brand that dates back to 1853, there is sure to be some traditional influence that creeps through in terms of watch design. The Le Locle line from Tissot is their line of dress watches that take inspiration from traditional watchmakers while combining the aesthetic with the modern tech and affordability we’ve come to expect from Tissot.
The Tissot Le Locle, ref. T006.407.36.033.00, is a 39.3mm stainless steel watch with gold PVD coating. The silver guilloche dial features complimenting gold Roman numerals. In addition to this classic detail, the dial also features Wessleton diamonds along the perimeter.
Details like this give this $695 dress watch a touch of luxury you normally wouldn’t see on a timepiece anywhere near this price range. If you’re looking for an impressive dress watch but don’t want to blow your entire watch collecting budget on it, this Tissot is a great option to consider.
One of the benefits of being a brand as big as Tissot is that you have the ability to focus on many different styles of watches at the same time. In addition to the dressier side of Tissot, there is also a side of them that is all business, producing very capable dive watches. The first of those we will look at on this list is the Tissot Seastar 1000.
The Tissot Seastar 1000, ref. T120.407.17.051.00, is a 43mm stainless steel dive watch that is capable of reaching depths of 300M or 1000ft. The watch features a unidirectional ceramic bezel, screw-down crown, and crown guards for increased durability for any professional or casual user.
The black dial and bezel combination in this reference is versatile but available in other color combos if you’re looking for something a little more adventurous. Although some models will come with a stainless steel bracelet, this model is paired with a durable black textile strap.
Some capable divers can easily sell for thousands or even tens of thousands of dollars, yet this Tissot Seastar 1000 is priced at a modest $725. With a price like that, you might actually afford to be able to take this watch on a proper dive!
Just when you think 1000ft is overkill for a dive watch, Tissot has to up the ante with a dive watch capable of doubling that feat. The Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional, ref. T120.607.11.041.01, features a 46mm case with a case thickness of 16.3mm and a weight of 206 grams. This watch is an absolute beast and best suited for those with a larger wrist.
The heft is justified when considering the ISO 6425 certification and depth rating of 600M or 2000ft. Despite the overly “tooltastic” design and dimensions, the watch still has a touch of elegance with the graded blue-black dial and wave motif (distinctly different from that on the Omega Seamaster).
The black ceramic unidirectional bezel seems to fade directly into the gradient change on the dial, which really helps give the design a purposeful aesthetic. The bold hands and indices ensure this watch remains legible in low-light conditions.
The Seastar 2000 is a function-first timepiece that can be found for a price that is less than what many others charge for a factory service. At $1075, the Tissot Seastar is a logical choice for any professional diver and perhaps a great illogical choice for anyone that just likes over-engineered timepieces.
Taking a step back into the world of classical watchmaking, this next timepiece from Tissot presents a familiar formula in a different format. The silver or white dial with black Roman numeral dress watch is not a rare design by any means. Cartier has built their entire product line with this as a central theme to their identity.
Where many of these designs come in rectangular or square cases, there are very few that stick to the standard round case shape. Tissot has done exactly that with this timepiece. The Tissot Carson Premium, ref. T122.407.11.033.00, features a 40mm stainless steel case paired with a 5-link stainless steel bracelet. While having a design that veers heavily into the dress watch category, the round case shape and bracelet give this watch a casual side as well.
The 10.3mm case thickness will be slim enough to slip under almost any cuff, but given its versatility, it may not need to. Coming in at a price of $675, the Tissot Carson is a great option for anyone looking for a more formal design that can play double duty as an everyday wear.
Now that Tissot is firmly on many enthusiasts’ radars when it comes to value-packed watches, there aren’t many that fall into the category of underrated or undiscovered. This next timepiece is one that genuinely surprises me. It has a history dating back to 1965, a sporty look with a timing bezel, and a robust 100 Meters of water resistance.
Given the value proposition that Tissot is known to bring, the fact that this watch is not talked about more is a shock to me. The Tissot PRS 516, ref. T131.430.11.042.00, features a 42mm stainless steel case with an interchangeable quick-release bracelet.
Several versions of this watch are available, but this particular reference sports a vivid blue dial accented with full Arabic numerals and a pop of red with the signature T-shaped seconds hand. This watch is inspired by classic sports cars, which is evident by the steering wheel design on the sapphire case back of the watch.
As an additional bonus, the watch features a day and date feature, which you don’t see on many Tissot watches. Coming in at a price of $725, I would expect this watch to garner as much, if not more, mainstream attention as some of the other watches on this list.
While I have praised many of the traditional examples of Tissot’s dress watch design on this list, there is something about a unique take on the style that I truly appreciate. Think FP Journe as opposed to Breguet. You would be incredibly lucky to own either of these watches, but one does have a more playful side, while the other seems more serious.
The Tissot Chemin des Tourelles, ref. T099.407.16.048.00, is a 42mm stainless steel dress watch. I know what you’re thinking; 42 mm is way too big for a dress watch! In general, I agree, but this timepiece gets a pass from me. The blue dial on this watch is, simply put, one of the best-looking dress watch dials under $1000.
It absolutely steals the show for this watch, and if your watch is ever going to stand out for its size, you want it to be with a dial like this. The Roman numerals at 3-6-9 give this watch a more casual feel that allows the watch to be worn on more than just formal occasions. Coming in at a price of $775, this might be the closest you can get to a Chronomet Bleu for under $1000.
The magic of what powers the mechanical marvels on our wrists is something that can be enjoyed by all collectors, both new and old. Many watches will offer a see-through caseback allowing the wearer to witness their movements in action. What if you’re the type of person that gets as much enjoyment out of this view as you do the actual dial of the watch? Thankfully Tissot has got you covered.
The Tissot Tradition Open Heart, ref. T063.907.16.058.00, is a 40mm stainless steel watch that features a simple dial and sharp dauphine hands. To break up the simplicity of this dial, Tissot utilizes what is known as an “open heart” dial. There is a cut-out in the front of the dial that allows you to see the escapement of the watch in action while simultaneously being able to wear your watch and tell the time.
This type of dial represents a great middle ground between a skeletonized dial and a traditional layout. The watch is paired with an alligator-style leather strap and features a very slim 9.3mm case thickness. Coming in at $725, this is the quintessential dress watch from Tissot that has a fun party trick built right into the dial.
Before the success of the PRX and the Gentleman, there was always one watch that achieved mainstream success for Tissot. In many ways, this watch has fallen off collectors’ radar, but it is worth every bit of attention it receives.
The Tissot Heritage Visodate, ref. T118.430.16.271.00, is a 42mm stainless steel watch that recreates the original design from the Visodate of the 1950s. The vintage Tissot logo is present on the dial and helps to give credibility to the vintage design.
The 42mm case dimension roots this watch comfortably as a modern timepiece matching the internal improvements over the original. The Visodate features twisted lugs, which are a nice call back to the time period and complement the aesthetic nicely.
If you are looking for a watch that has a modern specification and size yet looks like it was produced 60 years ago, you can’t do any better than the Tissot Visodate at $675.
If the Tissot Gentleman is the best affordable alternative to the modern Datejust, this next model from Tissot is the one that gives it a run for its money. The Tissot Ballade, ref. T108.408.22.278.00, features a 41mm stainless steel case with gold PVD fluted bezel and center links on the bracelet.
There is no mistaking the resemblance between this watch and the Rolex it found its inspiration from. The silver opaline dial with guilloche pattern and contrasting gold indices flow together effortlessly and help to give this watch a distinct personality of its own.
If you’re looking for a watch with as much visual presence as a modern 2-tone Rolex Datejust, you’d be hard-pressed to find anything that does it better than this reference. When you factor in that this watch comes in at a price of $1075, roughly 10% of its Rolex alternative, the value of this watch becomes crystal clear.
Versatile watches that can be casual and dressy are a segment of the market that Tissot excels at. When looking at many of the watches on this list, two inspirations become evident for their design. First is the inspiration from other well-established luxury watch brands, and the other is peering back into their historical archives.
This next versatile watch breaks the mold in terms of design and inspiration. The Tissot Luxury, ref. T086.407.22.097.00, is a 41mm stainless steel watch with a gold PVD smooth bezel. The unique construction of the case sees a gold PVD case back and crown united by a stainless steel mid-case that appears to have a weave pattern.
The design is very distinct and helps this watch stand out from the many other watches in the lineup that serve the same purpose. The green stepped dial pops, especially when paired with the matching gold indices to the case.
There is a small strip of PVD gold through the Oyster style bracelet that helps to unify the design of the case and bracelet. This watch is quirky, but at $925, it is a watch that deserves your consideration if you are in the market for a sub $1000 versatile watch.
The Tissot Gentleman is a watch that has already been mentioned on this list but deserves another mention, given the popularity and versatility of the product line. The Tissot Gentleman 18K Gold Bezel, ref. T927.407.46.051.00, features the same 40mm stainless steel case that made the original such a success.
Tissot did something with this model that they very rarely do; they gave this watch an 18k rose gold bezel. Being on the value end of the spectrum, almost anytime you see gold on a Tissot watch, it will come in the form of a gold PVD coating.
These coatings are excellent alternatives to give the aesthetic of gold at a lower price, but there is something about the feel of real gold. This watch is given matching rose gold indices on a sunray black dial for contrast.
As expected, this version of the Gentleman receives a price bump over the original, now coming in at $1575. Although that is a fairly sizable increase, there are almost no alternatives for a true 2-tone watch in this price range.
Just when you think Tissot stepped out of their comfort zone with the Gentleman with an 18K gold bezel, this next watch cranks it up to 11. The Tissot PRX 35mm 18K Gold Bezel, ref. T931.207.41.336.00, is a PRX watch with a smaller 35mm stainless steel case with an 18k gold bezel and an integrated steel bracelet.
What really takes this reference to the next level is their use of top Wesselton diamonds for the indices on the gray sunburst dial. The rose gold bezel is complemented by the matching handset and applied logo. This watch is marketed as a lady’s watch, but it’s 2024, so you can wear whatever watch you like.
This watch is anything but subtle, and that’s not something Tissot is necessarily known for. At $1925, this is a fun watch that I could see many couples sharing. I think I might have a gift idea for my next anniversary (if only I could remember when it was!).
Do you remember the days when a 34mm watch was considered the average size for a wristwatch? Yeah, me neither, but that doesn’t mean I don’t enjoy the watches from the era. The 1950s and 1960s produced millions of classically designed 34mm dress watches that happen to look great on my slender wrist.
While there is no doubt a lot of charm in wearing a watch twice my age, durability has always been a concern. If you find yourself in a similar predicament, Tissot has us covered, and they seemed to do it unintentionally.
The Tissot Chemin des Tourelles 34mm, ref. T139.207.16.011.00, is a 34mm stainless steel watch with a date function. Much like the 35mm PRX, Tissot has decided to position this watch as a woman’s watch. Sure, the smaller dimension will look great on most women’s wrists, but I think it will also look great on many men’s wrists as well.
The white dial, sharp leaf hands, and the case size look like they were plucked right out of the 1950s. However, the modern Powermatic 80 movement, sapphire crystal, and 50 Meters of water resistance ensure that you won’t need to baby this watch.
Coming in at a price of $725, you can afford to pick up a couple of distressed leather straps to help play to the watch’s vintage aesthetic. I don’t think that Tissot did this on purpose, but if you are looking for a true vintage-inspired watch with modern specifications, this is the best option under $1000.
Conclusion
There you have it, 15 of the best Tissot Powermatic 80 watches. I am amazed by the amount of variety and value that Tissot can bring to the entry-level luxury market. By having a class-leading powerhouse movement inside, Tissot allows their design to do all the talking.
This is something that I would have never imagined when I first started collecting watches, but Tissot is thriving! Whether you’re looking for the latest hype watch, a capable dive watch, or a classically designed dress watch, Tissot has you covered.
Thanks to their Powermatic 80 beating away flawlessly under the case back, if you’re in the market for a new entry-level luxury watch, you can allow your lifestyle to make a choice for you without worrying if the internals can keep up.
Imagine that you’re a new watch enthusiast. You have fallen in love with that Omega Seamaster 300 you saw strategically posed on Instagram and know that you need to have one. Being new to the game, you probably haven’t quite reached the levels of delusion allowing you to believe that $5000 plus on a watch is a “great value”, so it’s time to start searching everyone’s favorite auction site searching for the deal of a lifetime.
You’re armed with a little bit of knowledge and a lot of eagerness to be the next one to post a “New Watch Alert” in your favorite Facebook group. After a few weeks, you’ve found it! You’re almost shaking with excitement as you find “the deal of a lifetime” and can’t put your payment information in fast enough.
After a few minutes, the rush of excitement has likely subsided, and you have come off of cloud nine and returned comfortably to reality. Did you really just score a like new Omega Seamaster 300 for 1/3 of the MSRP because the seller “needs to sell ASAP”?
As reality settles in, you probably start doing what many of us would do in this situation. Frantically researching to see if you genuinely scored a deal or just learned a very expensive lesson.
Although this scenario plays out several times a day amongst several brands in the watch industry, we will specifically take a look at Omega and what to look for to avoid the pings of regret that this hypothetical new enthusiast is feeling right about now.
Why Are There So Many Fake Omega Watches?
With a history dating back to 1848, Omega is one of the most prestigious luxury watch brands in the industry. In terms of iconic models, few watch brands come anywhere near what Omega has been able to accomplish.
In particular, the Seamaster and Speedmaster lines have become synonymous with luxury watch design and are often victims of homage timepieces taking subtle (or not so subtle) inspiration from their design. There is a point where this flattery crosses the line, and for many people, that happens with the name on the dial.
If there is money to be made on the name of a product, there is someone illegally using that name to make a profit. There is no shortage of brands assembling watches and placing luxury brand names on the dial. These range from comically poor design and quality, to 1:1 super clones that require a very highly trained eye to determine the real from the replica.
8 Ways to Check Omega Watch Authenticity
We are going to focus this list on the super clones. From a picture, or sale listing, they look great, but how can we separate a luxury timepiece from one of the most prestigious brands in the industry from a piece of counterfeit trash? Get your loupe out; we’re taking a deep dive into the details of this one.
Serial Number
Depending on how good your eyes are, you might not need the Loupe just yet. The first thing to look for is a serial number on your Omega watch to verify authenticity. This serial number will be 7 to 8 digits and etched into the backside of your watch’s lug.
If you purchased a watch with the box and papers, these numbers should match. Just because a timepiece has a number etched into the lugs with matching paperwork does not always mean it’s authentic. A great next step will be to perform a simple Google search with the serial number on your watch.
Counterfeiters often produce an entire run of models using the same serial number to save cost, and you will see others listed for sale. These serial numbers are unique to the watch. If you find another one, it is almost certainly, unless you’re the unlucky owner of the original serial number that has been counterfeited, not an authentic watch (this is why you should never post a picture of your serial number).
Dial Printing
One of the most challenging and often overlooked characteristics of a watch is the printing on the dial. Whether it is just the chapter ring, or also the logo and branding or specifications, crisp and straight dial printing are hard to perfect (Just ask Seiko! Only kidding…sort of).
If you take out your jeweler’s loupe and closely inspect the dial, you should see very crisp printing with even spacing and perfectly level placement. If it looks less than perfect, you should be suspicious. Any brand can make a mistake (just look at Rolex with their double 9 Rolex Explorer), but Omega is one of the absolute best regarding these details.
Date Wheel
One of the most often ignored areas, even by the counterfeiters with the highest standards, is closely related to the dial printing. Even the best dial printing counterfeiter seems to haphazardly throw a standard date wheel in their watch 99/100 times.
An authentic Omega watch is going to feature a date wheel that is perfectly aligned and spaced properly over the entire date window. Much like the printing on the dial, the replica will not look anywhere near as crisp as what you should expect to find with a genuine Omega. These details are subtle from a distance, but with the help of your jeweler’s loupe are figuratively and literally magnified.
Solid Construction
If you have ever owned or tried on an authentic Omega watch, one thing that truly stands out is just how solid the construction is. Everything is machined to such a tight tolerance, and there is no doubt that you are wearing a luxury timepiece on your wrist.
Despite having some visual similarities, most replicas really lack that same feeling of heft on the wrist. Many of them are constructed decently, but it would be like comparing an entry-level Hamilton to an Omega. There are less precise tolerances, and the watch naturally loses some of that heft on the wrist.
There is nothing wrong with the construction of a watch like a Hamilton, but as much as enthusiasts love the brand, there would be more than a few eyebrows raised if they tried to price their timepieces in the same range as Omega, as many replicas are trying to do.
Case Finishing
Another area Omega is known to excel in is that of case finishing. Few brands can match the crisp transitions of brushed to highly polished, like Omega. Compared to an authentic Omega, a replica will have a much softer transition of brushed to polished surfaces.
When viewed on its own, it may appear well done and crisp, but compared side to side, the differences become much more apparent. The brushed surfaces will generally have a more aggressive brushing having ever so slight brush lines that you can detect with the very scientific fingernail test. The polished surface will likely not be as uniform and reflective as what you find with an authentic example either.
Movement Design
One of the hardest areas to replicate for a counterfeiter is the engine powering the watch. Many replica watches will feature a replica ETA 2824. These movements have a very generic finish that does not match the type of finish you would find on an authentic model.
Some higher-end counterfeiters will take things up a notch and replace the rotor with a similarly finished one. When looking through an open caseback, the movement will appear to be OK but spin the rotor out of the way, and the movement quickly reveals its secrets.
Movement Technology
One thing that is incredibly hard, if not impossible, for counterfeiters to replicate is brand-specific movement technology, such as the Co-Axial escapement featured on most of Omega’s modern watches. Unless you are very familiar with watchmaking, I’d leave this next level of identification to a professional watchmaker.
When opening up the watch and inspecting the movement, a trained watchmaker can quickly tell if the movement utilizes a Co-Axial escapement or just a dressed-up Swiss Lever escapement looking to play the part.
Trusted Seller
Of all of the things to look for on a watch to ensure authenticity, there is only one that is guaranteed to work. Counterfeiters are continuing to get better and better and are actively working to improve on the differences we have already pointed out on this list.
There is one thing counterfeiters will never be able to do, though, and that is to get their watches into an authorized Omega dealer. If you purchase from a trusted authorized dealer, you are guaranteed to have an authentic timepiece.
If your budget restricts you from purchasing brand new, take a look at their pre-owned inventory. If a watch shop is an authorized Omega dealer, you can rest assured that their preowned examples are also authentic.
The further your seller dilutes themselves from the original Omega source, the higher the risk is for you as a buyer. This is not to say that you shouldn’t trust any seller that is not an authorized dealer, just that you need to accept the fact that extra effort is required on your part to verify the piece you are looking to purchase is genuine.
Conclusion
If you are lucky enough to be considering a new or preowned Omega watch, congratulations! You are truly going to love your new timepiece. If you’re still saving and able to delay the gratification of the “New Watch Alert” post for a little while longer, save up until you can buy from a trusted source.
If you find a watch that seems like a good value and passes the guidelines we have presented here, spend a couple of extra dollars to have the watch authenticated by an authorized Omega dealer, preferably before you separate from your hard-earned cash.
That nominal fee will be worth every penny, whether it gives you peace of mind or prevents you from making a costly mistake. If you are browsing watches and find something that looks too good to be true, it probably is! Regardless of how cheap you are, don’t be tempted by the possibility of being able to score the deal of a lifetime due to someone else’s ignorance or need to sell something ASAP.
In this day and age, nobody is ignorant enough to list something without first doing a google search or impatient enough to give up thousands of dollars for the sake of selling a few hours sooner (you can price a watch aggressively to sell and not necessarily give it away).
Sometimes it’s obvious what we should avoid; other times, even seasoned collectors can end up bamboozled. If you do your research and follow these guidelines, you can ensure that you are enjoying an authentic Omega watch and greatly reduce the risk of making a costly mistake.
