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Author: William Boyd

William has been collecting and exploring luxury watches ever since he was 19. He discovered his passion for timepieces when he received a vintage rolex submariner as a gift from his father on his 18th birthday! And there has been no looking back ever since!

Do Cartier Watches Hold Their Value? (READ This Before You Invest)

Posted on July 28, 2022December 27, 2024 by William Boyd

In a time when every watch company is churning out endless numbers of stainless steel sports watches, there is one brand that transcends the trend and focuses on timeless and elegant designs often housed in luxurious materials. That brand is Cartier and not only have they remained a popular choice among the fashion forward clientele, but they have also grabbed the attention of the everyday watch enthusiasts.

Cartier watches have always been a respected brand within the watch community, but in the last several years they have exploded in popularity. This explosion in popularity draws parallels to that of other prestigious brands such as Rolex and Patek Philippe. It’s clear to see the similarities in quality and popularity, but how about investment potential? Do Cartier watches appreciate in value?

One of the hottest topics in watches these days is value retention. There are some people who feel that you should not concern yourself with the monetary value of your watch after you buy it as it’s a luxury item and there are others that will only consider a watch purchase if it appreciates exponentially after purchasing.

Most watch enthusiasts fall somewhere in the middle to varying degrees. Perhaps it’s a consequence of having a more limited budget compared to some other collectors but value is moderately important to my enjoyment of watches. Not the most important aspect by any means, but if I decide It’s time to move along from a watch, I can’t stomach the idea of losing a serious amount of money.

As much as I would like to believe that my viewpoint is unique, I’d be willing to bet that most watch enthusiasts, except maybe the uber-rich, feel the same way. What makes our collecting strategy and idea of value different, however, is the subjective parts of this mindset. What is a serious amount of money? What is a reasonable amount of money to lose on a watch?

It’s this dread of losing value on a luxury watch like a Cartier, that keeps me up at night. The quality and design may be breathtaking but I still find myself grabbing my phone and searching the question we’ve all asked; What is my Cartier watch worth? If you’ve been here before, don’t worry, you’re just as crazy as the rest of us! If you found this article by asking this very question, you can relax, you’re among friends.

Let’s take a closer look at some iconic models from Cartier, including the Santos and the Tank, to see how well they retain their value. We will look at new and pre owned examples and will even investigate some examples that might cross the threshold into investment grade pieces.

Do Cartier Tank watches hold their value?

Designed all the way back in 1917 and modeled after the Renault FT-17 French Tank used during World War 1, the Cartier Tank has a history that other watch manufacturers would kill for. The rectangular shape, white dial, and Roman numerals are so synonymous with this design that other brands that use these features refer to it as “Tank” style.

There is something to be said for being the original. The Tank range with Cartier has splintered off into several subsets, including the Tank Americaine and the budget friendly Tank Must. For this deeper dive, let’s focus on the classic, the Tank Louise. The Tank Louis, Ref WGTA0011, is a true luxury watch. The warm rose gold luster compliments the crispiness of the white dial and contrasting black Roman numerals.

This watch oozes sophistication and class. When viewed next to the competition of a Rolex Datejust or Day Date, there is no comparison. One of these is very clearly a dress watch, and the other a jack-of-all trades. This Tank Louis measures in at 33.7mm x 25.5mm with a thickness of 6.6mm and is constructed of 18k rose gold.Keep in mind the sub 34mm case dimension is based on rectangular case shape and will wear much larger than those dimensions would suggest.

Powering this watch is the manual winding manufacture caliber 8971 MC. This movement is based on the Jaeger- LeCoultre Cal. 846 and comes in with a 38 hour power reserve. Not necessarily anything to write home about by todays standards, but if its a movement made by JLC, it’s a good movement. They’re the watchmakers watchmaker for crying out loud, enough said.

If you’re reading this article, I probably don’t need to work too hard to convince you of the merits of this watch. Quality aside, how well does the Cartier Tank Louis hold its value? This watch referenced here sells for roughly $12,800 at the time of writing. The ever volatile second hand market estimates the value of this watch at roughly $9000-$10000 dollars. I may not be great at math, but it looks like you’re losing roughly 20-30% of the value of your watch.

I know what you’re thinking, how could a Cartier Tank possibly be a good value watch? Im just going to buy a Ro…STOP right there! Let me explain! This watch inherently has a few things working against it when it comes to value retention. First, its’ a dress watch. Whether you agree with the sports watch craze right now or not, the fact is resale value for any non sports watch is going to be impacted by the decreased demand.

The other factor impacting the resale value of this Tank Louis is the fact that it is 18K rose gold. It is a luxurious material and therefor marked up appropriately when pricing out a new timepiece. The secondary market often caters to those of us who tend to hold a tighter grip on their discretionary income.

Not always, but a majority of the time, us cheapskates (what a hilarious term to use when discussing luxury watches) are drawn to the lowest point of entry into a watch, which is often a stainless steel model.

Are Pre Owned Cartier Tank Watches a Good Value?

With this 20-30% price depreciation in mind, lets search for that ever present silver lining. What if you are not the one to pop the champagne and give that Cartier Tank Louis its first incredibly painful scratch? If you’re able to find a reputable pre owned dealer, such as Exquisite Timepieces, you can let someone else take that initial depreciation.

You will still end up with a timeless 18k rose gold case and white dial Cartier Tank, powered by a JLC movement that is sure to be the classiest watch at any formal event, or Zoom meeting. The extra bonus you receive when purchasing this model pre owned, is the peace of mind that your money is safe. Is this watch going to explode in value and make you pass out on Antiques Roadshow?

Probably not, but you’re going to own one of the most iconic designs in watchmaking with real historical significance and if you choose to move it along to its next owner, your money will be relatively safe.

Does the Cartier Santos Hold its Value?

So what if you love the Cartier design language, but find yourself lusting after something a little sportier? Lucky for us, Cartier has you covered with another early 1900’s design in the form of the Cartier Santos. This watch was originally designed by Louis Cartier for his friend and Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont as he attempted to be the first person to pilot an aircraft.

Although the design holds onto many of the traits we love about Cartier, this watch does feature some changes that will help satisfy the wants and needs of those in search of something a little more robust. The Cartier Santos, Ref. WSSA0018, is a modern take on the original 1906 design. Along with the history, it carries the timeless design identity of what makes a Cartier a Cartier watch.

This particular model is the large variant and carries a dimension of 39.88mm with a case thickness of 9.8mm all crafted out of 316L stainless steel.. This watch is powered by the in house automatic caliber 1847 MC, which offers 42 hours of power reserve. The design of this watch is more brutalist than the Tank, featuring a rounded square case shape as opposed to the more tradition rectangle of the more formal Tank, but it still wears its Cartier aesthetic proudly.

Where things get more interesting is when it comes to everyday wearability. This watch trades out the traditional leather strap for a stainless steel bracelet with a few party tricks. This bracelet features a unique QuickSwitch feature that allows for tool free strap swaps as well as SmartLink allowing you to resize your bracelet painlessly.

Add to these features the 100 Meters of water resistance and you now have a Cartier watch, that looks like a Cartier, but can hold its own against any everyday watch from the likes of Rolex or Omega. Now that we have a stainless steel sports watch from Cartier, is the Cartier Santos a good investment? Investment, may be a stretch at this point. The retail price of this watch is about $7800 and the pre owned value of this watch is between $7000 and $7600.

All things considered, you can purchase this watch new and have your money be relatively safe, dropping in value roughly 10%. When a watch holds it value this strongly, I would say it is a “no brainer” to purchase at retail. This high residual value does have one unfavorable inverse reaction. The current models may not be as value packed pre owned as they otherwise would be if they depreciated more.

The good news for my fellow thrifty watch enthusiasts is that if you are willing to go back a model or 2, you will find a Santos at the bottom of its depreciation curve. The design of the Santos has been around for a while and models exist with varying levels of features that will dictate the purchase price. If you find an example that is in great cosmetic condition and offers the features you deem most important, you can still score yourself a tremendous value.

What Cartier Watches are Best for Investment?

What if I want a watch that can exponentially grow in value? Does Cartier have any investment grade watches? Absolutely they do! There are 2 different ways that a watch can be a great investment opportunity. The first is to be an exceptionally rare timepiece with history and provenance and the other is to be an undervalued example poised for an increase in popularity. I will give you an example of both of these that I feel represent great options for investment watches by Cartier.

For those of us wearing a top hat and monocle, I present the Cartier Crash. Cartier has released this limited production model a few different times within its history. They are quirky, hard to read, and downright cool! They are, in fact, so rare that pinning down their exact appreciation is no small feat. The last time this watch was listed on their website it was selling for about $36,500.

Pricing for an item like this is generally only available upon request, but one would expect to pay well north of $100,000. If you were lucky enough to score one of these from an AD, chances are you’re not really looking to try and flip this watch. But if you were, you would do just fine on it! What if you are the type of person who likes to trade in the top hat for a baseball hat?

Is there something for the everyday watch enthusiast? Lucky for us, there certainly is. The Must De Cartier Tank. This model was the budget friendly offering from Cartier to help introduce people into the brand. Let’s be clear, it is not the luxury experience that you are getting from any of the watches we have described earlier, but it looks like one. With these models you are generally getting a quartz movement and a gold plated case. Not exactly haute horology, but they’re still pretty nice looking dress watches.

The real value in these Must De Cartier models is the price point. They can be purchased for under $1000 all day long on everyones favorite online marketplace. It is definitely a riskier purchase when you start looking into these dark corners of the vintage watch market. There are Frankenwatches, fakes, and poor condition models a plenty available for you to waste your hard earned money on.

But if you are patient and do your research, you can end up with a very classy dress watch, that is hard for watch manufacturers to achieve at multiples of this price. So, will a Cartier watch last a lifetime? If the last 100+ years are any indication, not only will a Cartier watch last well beyond the average lifespan mechanically when properly maintained, but the style will outlast almost any other timepiece.

There is a design language you get when you purchase a Cartier timepiece and it looks as classic today as it did in 1906 when Alberto Santos-Dumont adorned his watch on a 21 second flight. Are Cartier watches a good investment? This gets a little trickier to answer. Just because a watch will last for ever, doesn’t necessarily mean it’s a great investment. It is a great investment if what you are looking for is an iconic timepiece from one of the OG watchmakers, with a distinctive style and personality.

On the other hand, if you’re looking to flip this watch to immediately fund your next, Cartier may not be for you. Your money, is relatively safe if you chose to move one of their pieces along, but unless you score one of their ultra rare pieces or end up on the winning side of a risky vintage purchase you shouldn’t expect your money to grow exponentially.

“What is my Cartier watch worth?” In most cases about what you paid for it. In the world of luxury purchases that is a very elite level of value retention. Sure there may be other watch brands that exceed their value once purchased, but good luck trying to find one available to purchase. Cartier has a history that rivals any other watch brand and the quality and design to help you stand out of the pack.

Andy Warhol famously wore a Cartier watch and even commented that he wore a Cartier “because it is the watch to wear!” No mention of value retention or investment potential. He just knew that it was a cool watch to wear, even if he didn’t take the time to wind it. That off the cuff statement sums up Cartier.

The greatest value of a Cartier watch is not in its investment potential, it’s in the way it makes you feel when you put it on the wrist. At the end of the day if it’s cool enough for Andy Warhol, I would guess that it is cool enough for the rest of us!

Tudor Black Bay 36 vs. 41 (Which is PERFECT for a Man’s Wrist?)

Posted on July 28, 2022December 27, 2024 by William Boyd

Are you searching for a great watch that has great value? In this article, I will compare and contrast the features of the Tudor Black Bay model 36 and model 41 wristwatches for your consideration.

For those that are unfamiliar with the Tudor brand, Tudor is essentially the sister company of the very successful and popular Rolex brand.

Based in Switzerland and founded by Hans Wilsdorf, both continue production today managed by the Wilsdorf Foundation.

With this in mind, both collections share many of the same attributes and innovations exclusively developed by Mr. Wilsdorf and his team of artisans.

I personally experienced selling both brands at the retail level in the early 1980s and most often, a customer who desired a Rolex ultimately purchased a Rolex.

Fortunately, with the relaunch of the Tudor brand in the United States approximately ten years ago, the brand has made great strides to present its uniqueness and appeal.

With the addition of exclusive in-house movements manufactured by Tudor and not customized ETA movements, the move towards a more distinct brand identity is well underway.

In this article, I will attempt to educate you on the attributes of the Black Bay model 36 and model 41 watches and address the concerns about the size of each of the models and concerns addressing any questions as to if these models are men’s watches.

Rest assured, both models are comparable to the size of some other very well-known brands.

For example, the Black Bay 41 is outfitted with a 41mm size case. In comparison, the Rolex Submariner is outfitted with a 41 mm case and the Omega Seamaster with a 42mm case.

The Black Bay 36, on the other hand, boasts a 36 mm case which is equivalent to the Rolex Datejust model 16200 (One of the most popular in the Rolex collection).

All of the Tudor models are certified Swiss chronometers. For novices, a chronometer denotes an instrument for accurately measuring time.

The official certification refers to the COSC which is the official Swiss chronometer testing institute that certifies chronometers that fall within a precise range of accuracy.

One constant throughout the collection is that each Tudor watch comes with a five-year guarantee that requires no registration or periodic maintenance checks.

Tudor Black Bay 41

The Tudor Black Bay model 41 can basically be broken down into two categories. The first category ranges in price from approximately $2950.00 to $3275.00.

These models are the entry price points and all consist of stainless steel cases that are water resistant to 150m (approx. 500ft).

These models are available with an extensive list of features and strap, bracelet, dial, and bezel combinations.

The 41 mm case is available in either a polished or satin finish and an accompanying smooth steel bezel with a polished finish.

Each has a sapphire crystal and a screw-down crown. There are a number of different straps available depending on the specific watch choice and consist of the following; aged brown or black leather, blue, black, brown, or burgundy fabric or a steel, satin finished bracelet with a folding clasp and safety catch.

Each watch is fitted with a Tudor T600 self-winding mechanical movement with a 38-hour power reserve capacity. In the second category are the steel and gold models that range in price from $5250.00 to $5875.00.

These possess a sporty air but are much more everyday business smart timepieces. Each is fitted with a Tudor MT5601 self-winding mechanical movement with a bidirectional rotor system with a 70-hour power reserve.

For clarity, the bidirectional rotor expedites the transference of power to the mainspring whether the rotor turns clockwise or anticlockwise.

They are water resistant to 100m (approx. 330 ft.). In addition, each possesses a sapphire crystal and a yellow gold screw-down crown and is completed by a steel and gold bracelet reflecting polished and satin finishes and a steel “T fit” folding clasp with a safety catch. The $5875,00 model has a dial with diamond markers thus the increment in price.

I have taken the liberty of including the following model though it is not formally a Black Bay model 41 watch but has a 41mm case and is truly a remarkable watch.

The timepiece I am referring to is the Black Bay Ceramic which retails for approximately $4825.00.

This is truly a signature piece for the Tudor line and boasts some world-class features as well as being a real eye-catcher. The case itself is a black ceramic case with a micro-blasted finish and a monobloc middle case.

It has an open case back in black PVD treated 36L steel with a sapphire crystal. This provides viewing access to the Tudor model MT5602-IU self-winding mechanical movement with a bidirected rotor system.

The movement is capable of 70 hours of power reserve. This particular movement is a COSC-certified chronometer whose precision has been tested at two different temperatures, six different positions, and at two levels of power reserve (100% and 33%).

It also is antimagnetic meaning it is smooth functioning when exposed to a magnetic field of 15,000 gausses with precision following such exposure.

To complete the Black Bay Ceramic it is available with either a hybrid leather or a rubber strap with a steel folding clasp and safety catch in black PVD-treated 316L steel. According to the Tudor website, a complimentary black fabric stamp with a cream band and black PVD treated 316L steel buckle is also included.

To close my article, I will share a bit more information on the Tudor Black Bay model 36 as mentioned earlier in this article.

The model 36 is a rugged everyday watch that shares a very similar appearance with its Rolex counterpart. Though slightly smaller in stature the watch would be comfortably at home on any man’s wrist.

The Tudor 36

Once again, I will take the liberty of breaking down the Model 36 into three categories. The first part of the collection would be the steel case watches that retail for approximately $2725.00 to $3050.00.

The 36mm case is a combination of both polished and satin finishes and is outfitted with a sapphire crystal. The movement is a Tudor T600 self-winding mechanical movement with a power reserve capacity of 38 hours.

Additionally, the watch is water resistant to 150m. (approx. 500 ft.). The crown is a steel screw-down winding crown, with the Tudor rose in relief with a black anodized aluminum winding crown tube.

The strap models are available in beige or brown leather or in black fabric. The other option is a steel satin finish bracelet with a folding clasp and safety catch.

The second category is the steel and gold models which retail in the realm of $5025.00-$5650.00.

Each of the watches available here has a Tudor MT5400 self-winding mechanical movement with a bidirectional rotor system with 70 hours of power reserve capacity.

A sapphire crystal and a steel and gold polished and satin bracelet round out the physical features. The bracelet also has the “T fit” folding clasp and safety catch.

The lower price points in the category are available with either silver, black, or champagne dials. The upper price point in the range reflects dials with diamond markers available in silver, black, and champagne finishes.

The Black Tie finish

I have created the third category to feature some steel and gold models that would usually be part of the second category.

My reasoning for singling these timepieces out is that they are striking and offer value in what could be viewed as a “Black Tie Watch.” These pieces are adorned with both a diamond marker dial as well as a full diamond bezel.

The approximate retail of these watches is $7325.00. and would be a perfect complement to a tuxedo or when being worn to attend a wedding or gala-style event. These models are once again available in either black, silver, or champagne dials.

Tudor Sizing on a Man’s Wrist

In closing, either the Tudor Black Bay Models 36 or 41 are timepieces that should be considered for their features, history, quality, and value, given the price of many Swiss watches today.

There seems to be a considerable amount of conversation concerning the difference in the case size and bracelet between the aforementioned models and how they appear on the average male wrist.

In researching these particular discussions, the claim that the Black Bay 36 is too small for a 7.5 inch or larger wrist or that the 41 is too large for a 6.25 or smaller size wrist are valid concerns in weighing your ultimate purchase.

In an age where it seems everyone weighs in concerning their opinions on such matters, I believe that an individual’s choice should be entirely subjective.

To make the best decision, if possible, visit a legitimate Tudor watch dealer and try the Black Bay 36 and 41 on.

Actually seeing the timepiece on your own wrist should go a long way to helping you make a confident decision.

While opinions are vast and readily available, the comfortability of the watch on one’s wrist coupled with the aesthetics and material of the watch should be your ultimate criteria in making your purchasing decision.

I would also recommend that perhaps you make your choice with a trusted individual or partner.

Someone in whom you trust their critique and opinion and can offer honest input in your buying decision.

A caveat I also would suggest is not to over-research the debate of one size case vs. another. As with vast amounts of opinion and information, the results could lead to both confusion and mental overload.

Do your research, make a list of possible candidates for your purchase, and visit your Tudor dealer.

Trying on the physical products will go a long way to assuaging any doubts or questions you might harbor about a wristwatch that will look amazing on your particular wrist and make the statement that you desire.

While Rolex continues to be known for its name, all one needs is the confidence to recognize a superior crafted timepiece instead of succumbing to the urge to follow the pack.

For an excellent discussion and overview of the question surrounding the Tudor size 36mm models for a man’s wrist I suggest the following review:

15 BEST Sapphire Glass Watches of All Time (AND Why You Should Buy!)

Posted on July 28, 2022December 27, 2024 by William Boyd

One misconception about purchasing a sapphire crystal watch is that it has to be expensive to be quality.

No matter your budget, we rounded up the 15 best sapphire crystal watches, ranging from around $240 to $60,000.

It includes a classic dress watch, a rugged diver’s watch, and a dress watch with a sporty edge. Countries vary from Japan, Germany, and Switzerland.

One has traveled to the end of the Earth, and another has walked across the moon. But, these well-engineered and stylish watches all have one thing in common: a sapphire crystal.

Our favorite

Seiko Prospex SPB143

Around $1,200.00. The Seiko Prospex SPB143 is a modern interpretation of the 62MAS and is part of the “1965 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation” series.

The 40.5mm curved stainless steel case and solid case back are applied with Seiko’s DiaShield to protect them from most dings and scratches.

The vintage-style sapphire crystal protects a black dial with conventional hands that are half-brushed and half-polished.

The hands, applied markers, and coin edge bezel have Lumibrite for legibility. Seikos’ 6R35 automatic movement powers the watch. It beats at 21,600 vph and has a 70-hour power reserve.

The stainless steel strap includes short, drilled lugs, which makes it quick and easy to attach straps. It also has Seiko’s DiaShield for extra protection. It has 200m of water resistance.

Sapphire crystal watches under $300

Seiko SNE529

Around $240. The 40mm stainless steel case features polished and brushed finishes on the bezel and other case components. Additionally, it has a screwed-on stainless steel case back.

It has a sunburst emerald green dial, long sword-shaped hands, and yellow gold hour markings. The hour and minute hands each have bevels that greatly enhance the dial’s contrast.

The dial’s edge is grey/white and has a lighter green tone. At three o’clock, a push-pull crown and a day-and-date window with a black background.

This watch has a solar-powered Seiko internal caliber V158 Solar Quartz, with a frequency of 32,768 Hz and a 10-hour power reserve.

A brown embossed leather strap and tang buckle complete a clean look. It has 100m of water resistance.

Sapphire crystal watches under $500

Seiko Presage SARY055

Around $280. A conventional dress watch, the Seiko Presage SARY055 has a flat anti-reflective sapphire crystal that protects the dial in a 41mm case.

The display case back is protected by a Hardlex crystal and displays the internal Seiko automatic movement 4R36A. It operates at 21,600 vph and has a 40-hour power reserve.

The two-step sloping chapter ring on the metallic white dial features blue minutes and sub-minutes markings.

It also has sizable blue dauphin hands and polished hour markings adorn the dial. Lastly, the date and day wheels can display Kanji or English.

Three positions exist on the push-in and pull-out crown. The first position manually winds the watch; the second position changes the day and date complications, and the third position changes the time.

The bracelet links have solid end links with a pin and collar to bind them together. It has 100m of water resistance.

Sapphire crystal watches under $1,000

Seiko Prospex SPB077: 1968 automatic diver’s modern re-interpretation

Around $1,050. Seiko’s and Japan’s first dive watch was released in 1965, upgraded to 300m, and had a 10-beat automatic movement in 1968.

Seiko’s Prospex collection commemorates the famed dive watch’s 50th anniversary with a modern interpretation of the 1968 design.

In many ways, the rugged Prospex SPB077’s design continues to pay tribute to the original.

It has similar six, nine, and twelve-hour markers that feature squared arrows with large circles in front of them.

However, its 44mm stainless steel case is thinner and coated with Seiko’s Dia shield that minimizes scratches. Its tooth-edged, rounded, and unidirectional black bezel is narrower and slimmer.

Additionally, there are silver highlights rather than gold. It also features redesigned LumiBrite hour markers, matte black finished hands, and a Prospex logo.

It houses the automatic 6R15 caliber with 21,600 vibrations per hour and a 50-hour power reserve.

It sports a three-link steel Dia-Shield bracelet with a 2mm taper from lug to clasp. The main link has flat brushed top surfaces with flat polished bevels, but the side links have conventional rounded edges. It has 200m of water resistance.

Sapphire crystal watch under $1,500

Seiko Presage SPB205 limited edition watch

Around $1,150. Honoring Seiko’s 140th anniversary, Japanese sunrises inspired the Presage SPB 2015’s design.

It sports an angular 39.3mm black case with a design reminiscent of Seiko’s signature “Grammar of Design” from the 1960s. Only 4,000 units are available.

The intricately rich texture of the graduated dial incorporates features of a motif known as asanoha, or “hemp leaf.”

Traditionally used for fabrics, this geometric pattern with textured surface shimmers in the light. Since the Heian period (794-1185 AD), it has been a part of Japanese culture, which brought good health and prosperity, especially to the young.

The hands and stick markers have been painted with Lumibrite for legibility and accented with gold. A date aperture can be viewed at 3 o’clock.

It has an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, and its transparent case back shows Seiko’s caliber 6R35 automatic movement. It beats at 21,600 vph with a 70-hour power reserve.

It has wide lugs and a “super-hard black coating” finish on the bracelet. It has 100m of water resistance.

Sapphire crystal watch under $4,000

Seiko Marine Master “MM300” Prospex SLA023J1

Around $3,100. The zaratsu polished 44.3mm case includes a monobloc dial (no physically detachable case back).

The mirror blade polished by Grand Seiko, the ‘zaratsu’ method, requires three years of training before a watchmaker can polish cases in this manner.

A “Big Wave” emblem and lettering are engraved on the case back. It also has engraving for the reference number, serial number, water resistance, etc.

An anti-reflective sapphire glass protects the deep blue sunburst dial. The hands have been painted with Lumibrite for legibility and have a beautiful brushed appearance. Logos, markers, and the central second hand have a gold accent.

The unidirectional rotating bezel also features a luminous triangle and a 5, 10, 15, and 20-minute indicator.

Seiko’s Diashield technology protects the bracelet’s polished and brushed metal components against scratches and dings. It also comes with a unique black rubber strap.

The self-winding 8L35B caliber beats at 28,880 vph, has 50 hours of power reserve, and comes with 26 jewels. It has 300m of water resistance.

Sapphire crystal watch under $6,000

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra

Around $5,700. The 41mm stainless steel case houses a dome anti-reflective sapphire crystal and an exhibition case back that displays the in-house Co-Axial 8800 Calibre.

The case’s slab sides have a coarse-grain, horizontally brushed finish. The tops of the lyre lugs are polished with a circular brush, and the organic curves frame the case.

Most of the crown is polished and is attached to the case side in a slight recess. The white dial has a “teak” patterned dial with raised indices and horizontal stripes.

It has Super-LumiNova coated hands, indices, and a date window. The Co-Axial 8800 Calibre is a “master chronometer” certified timepiece with a power reserve of 55 hours, anti-magnetic up to 15,000 gausses, and a frequency of 25,200 vph.

This certification is a step beyond the typical COSC rating. It has to pass eight tests, including magnetism resistance at different exposure levels, function accuracy during extreme magnetism, chronometric day-to-day precision, and others.

The clasp is a sequential folding dual arc with push-button actuators for release. The underside construction of the rocker’s arms is polished and curved. It has 150m of water resistance.

Sapphire crystal watch under $10,000

Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar Green Dial

Around $9,900. The 40mm stainless steel and 18kt red gold case has a mixture of brushing on the sides, and the top sides of the lugs and bezel are polished.

It also has a signed crown with the double-g logo. The PanoMaticLunar’s case is polished and brushed and holds an anti-reflective sapphire crystal that protects the gradient deep forest green dial.

The white gold hour hands and seconds dial have Super-LumiNova. Two circular displays occupy the left side; the smaller one is the extra second’s register, while the larger one has attached baton markers and lume-filled alpha-shaped hands.

The sapphire crystal exhibition case back displays the highly decorated, automatic, in-house-produced caliber 90-02. It beats at 28,880 vph, has 47 jewels, and has a 42-hour power reserve.

A brown nubuck leather strap completes the piece with a pin buckle or folding clasp. Additionally, it comes with a bracelet with a machined clasp, a double-button security release, and micro-adjustments on a tiny ratchet system. The links have a brushed-out polished center link. It has 50m of water resistance.

Sapphire crystal watch under $15,000

Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon

Around $12,000. Omega’s Speedmaster Darkside of the Moon is the first Speedmaster made entirely of ceramic.

The arduous process of multiple rounds of intense heating followed by meticulous detailing with diamond-tipped tools results in a 44.25mm casing. Then it’s polished by alumnia granules and a diamond pasted wheel.

A highly domed box-type sapphire crystal with an anti-glare treatment guards the dial and extends above the bezel.

A zirconium oxide polished dial is contrasted by Superluminova coated 18k white gold indices, hour, minute, and elapsed chronograph seconds. It also has a color-coordinated date window.

A matte chromium nitride-coated and laser-engraved tachymeter scale complements the bezel’s polished finish. On the case side, two pushers operate the vertical column-wheel chronograph.

The sapphire crystal exhibition case displays the Omega Co-Axial caliber 9300. The 54-jewel, distinctive double-barrel chronograph with COSC certification beats at 4 Hz and has a 60-hour power reserve.

A technical nylon fabric strap with a polished black buckle, leather backing, and red contrast stitching completes the design. It has 50m of water resistance.

Sapphire crystal watch under $20,000

Omega Olympic Official Timekeeper Limited Edition

Around $16,800. The Omega Olympic Official Timekeeper was designed to commemorate its rich heritage and the Rio 2016 Olympics.

Drawing upon a 1932 pocket watch design, it’s a contemporary sports watch with a vintage feel.

The 39mm, 18k yellow gold three-body case has gently curved lugs and a flat bezel that are polished and brushed.

Its anti-reflective sapphire crystal covers a lacquered white dial with a vintage red OMEGA symbol, black Arabic numerals, black painted minutes and seconds scale, and blue-steel hands and center sweep.

The five iconic rings of the Olympic Games, “Official Timekeeper of the Olympic Games,” and the watch’s limited edition number (out of 188) are engraved on the case back.

A limited edition Omega 3203 caliber is housed inside and has a manual-winding chronograph movement with a column wheel mechanism and Co-Axial escapement. It beats at 28,000 vph, has 55 hours of power reserve, and has 33 jewels.

It has a brown leather strap, an 18k rose gold tang buckle, and a retro Omega logo. It has 30m of water resistance.

Sapphire crystal watch under $25,000

Breguet Marine 5527TI/Y1/TW0

Around $24,100. The Breguet Marine 5527TI has a titanium 42.3mm case with straight and sharp lines that contrast with polished and chamfered edges on the pushers and case side.

Fluting on the case back and a wave décor surrounds the crown. Anti-reflective sapphire glass protects a blue dial with lume-filled Roman numerals and hands, three ‘raised’ chronographs and a date aperture with a matching color background.

The elegant self-winding Breguet 582QA movement and skeletonized rotor are visible through the sapphire exhibition case. It has an inverted in-line Swiss lever escapement with silicon pallets and balance spring.

The 582QA beats at 28,800 vph, has 28 jewels, and 48 hours of power reserve. A titanium bracelet with vertically brushed and polished links complements the watch. It has 100m of water resistance.

Sapphire crystal watch under $30,000

Arnold & Son DSTB Saintless Steel

Around $30,700. The Arnold & Son DSTB (Dial Side True Beat) 43mm stainless steel canonical-shaped case has a polished and narrow bezel and the Arnold & Son logo on the crown. The wide-screen sapphire crystal accentuates the depth of the dials.

Three open-worked bridges support the ‘true beat mechanism’ (also known as ‘deadbeat seconds’) that are black ADLC treated with sizable circular finishing and screws with beveled and mirror-polished heads.

It increases the accuracy because it measures time in completed one-second steps instead of fractions determined by the balance frequency. A large sapphire crystal chapter ring and a slender arrowhead display the seconds.

It also has a silvery-white lacquered dial, blue hands, and open-worked tips that rotate around Roman numerals.

The lever, wheels, and three palladium-treated bridges are arranged well for a charming display. Explicitly created for DSTB, a self-winding Arnold A&S6003 movement is seen back in the sapphire exhibition case.

It has a NAC grey-treated, diamond-shaped motif and features Haute Horlogerie finished with hand-chamfered and a satin-finished lever and bridges.

The A&S6003 has 32 jewels, 45 hours of power reserve, and beats at 28,800 vphs. It is completed by a hand-stitched black or brown alligator leather strap with a folding deployment clasp. It has 30 meters of water resistance.

Sapphire crystal watch under $35,000

Breguet Tradition 7097BR/G1/9WU

Around $32,700. Drawing inspiration from the souscription pocket watch, the Breguet Tradition 7097BR blends original elements with a modern design.

A 40mm 18k rose gold case and anti-reflective sapphire crystal display an open-worked skeleton that reveals bridges, wheels, escapement, barrel, and other parts. The silvered gold hobnail guilloche patterned dial has Breguet steel, polished blue minute and hour hands, and roman numerals.

Lastly, it has an arched scale with a blue retrograde seconds hand. Similar to the souscription pocket watch, a mainspring barrel is found at the center of the movement and has a starfish-like five-armed design for the train wheels.

Breguet also implemented the spare-shock anti-shock system. A unique serial number can be found on the dial and case back.

The exhibition sapphire case back displays the inverted souscription movement, the 505 SR1 caliber, which uses a silicon balance spring with a free-sprung adjustable mass balance.

It has 38 jewels, a 50-hour power reserve, and beats at 21,600 vph. Breguet’s signature straight lugs are welded onto the case and use screw pins to securely hold the alligator bracelet straps. It has 30m of water resistance.

Sapphire crystal watch under $50,000

Laurent Ferrier Square Micro-Rotor Navy Blue Dial

Around $46,000. The polished and cushion-shaped 41mm stainless steel three-body case with a highly domed sapphire crystal. It has polished scalloped lugs, signature steel winding ball-shaped crown, and a stepped bezel.

The satin-brushed navy blue dial has faceted 18k white gold drop-shaped hour markers, Assegai-shaped arrow hands, and indices.

It also has a recessed blue guilloche auxiliary dial with subtle sky-blue markers and an 18k white gold baton-shaped seconds hand.

The exhibition sapphire case back displays the FBN229.01 automatic caliber with a double direct-impulse escapement and a small oscillating weight that offers pawl-equipped, unidirectional winding.

Wheel spokes are beveled, screw hands are chamfered and polished, and it has a lubrication-free silicon escapement.

It has 35 jewels, beats at 21,600 vph, and 72- hours of power reserve. The timepiece is complete with a blue alligator leather strap with Alcantra lining, matching stitching, and stainless steel tang buckle. It has 30m of water resistance.

Sapphire crystal watch under $60,000

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Purity White Gold Blue

Around $60,000. The watch features a polished and brushed 18k white gold 42mm case, concave sides on the lugs, a slight domed bezel, and a crown adorned with an ‘M.’ It has a minimalist gradient dial that displays only the essentials.

The midnight fume dial has a sunburst pattern with leaf-shaped hands, indices at 6 and 12 o’clock, a perpetual calendar, a power reserve indicator, running seconds sub-dial. Engraved on the curved case back is the piece’s limited edition number out of 50.

The exhibition case back displays the HMC 800 manual-winding Perpetual Calendar movement, interchangeable Moser escapement, and original Straumann Hairspring with stabilized Breguet over-coil.

It beats at 18,000 vph, has 168 hours of power reserve, and has 32 jewels. The black alligator leather strap has a pin buckle, and a red leather lining completes the design. It has 30m of water resistance.

What is Sapphire Crystal?

History of sapphire crystal

In the 1930s, they served as dial guards. By utilizing it on reference 5100 in 1970, Rolex set the standard for other luxury companies.

The brand also developed a unique green sapphire as part of its ongoing innovation. During World War I & II, acrylic glass was manufactured for submarines, gun turrets, and other structures.

Is sapphire glass good for a watch?

Watch design, legibility, and aesthetics significantly affect the crystal’s structure. Domed and flat shapes are the most typical shapes for sapphire crystals.

A flat crystal is easier to read underwater, while a domed crystal may cause a dial to go blank at specific angles.

“Box-shaped” crystals are raised a few millimeters above the bezel, protruding the edges. These are often seen in vintage watches and use acrylic crystals. This design can be visually appealing and bestow a retro feel to modern watches.

Dive watches can be affected by a crystal’s shape. Domed crystals cause the dial to go blank, while flat crystals are easier to read underwater.

Another issue is that surfaces with flat interiors and domed exteriors might distort vision. For a clear view of a dial, “double-domed” crystals have curved surfaces on the outside and inside.

Is sapphire glass real sapphire?

This ultra-hard crystal is a superior scratch-resistant glass-like material created in a laboratory at high temperatures.

Heat causes it to turn into a pulp, cut into pieces with diamond-coated saws. The watch glasses are then polished and cut.

What’s the benefit of sapphire crystal?

Of the three most used crystals (acrylic and mineral), it is the most costly, hardest, and legible. The majority of other horology companies add an anti-reflective coating to improve visibility.

Does sapphire watch glass scratch?

It isn’t easy to scratch, but once it is, polishing becomes challenging. A few extreme situations also will cause one to break. It is more prone to cracking or fracturing than acrylic. Sapphire scores 9 out of 10 on the Mohs scale of mineral hardness.

Pros:

The best dial for preventing scratches.
Out of the three, it has the best clarity, especially with anti-reflective.
Diamonds and moissanite only surpass its hardness.

Cons:

The most costly option.
Less shatterproof than mineral and acrylic dials

Do Breitling Watches Hold Their Value? (What Our EXPERIENCE Says!)

Posted on July 28, 2022December 27, 2024 by William Boyd

The luxury watch market is volatile, complex, and brings a thrill that is unmatched. From learning about the depths of horological history to following the hype around the industry today, it is a world that offers so much space to explore, discover, and make your own.

Whether you are intrigued by the mechanics of time telling and learning about various complications or interested in the design and aesthetic aspect that makes a watch visually appealing, there is something for everyone.

The general watch community (and all of its subgroups) offers a space for enthusiasts to discuss, learn, and support each other amidst their independent horological journeys.

There are many different watch brands that have their own place in the market. From the most affordable swatch to a highly sought after Rolex, there are plenty of options to choose from.

Today we are going to focus on a watchmaker that holds a respectable place in today’s luxury watch market – Breitling.

They are a watch brand that has been around for over a century and shows no sign of obsolescence.

Whether you are investing on a budget or have plenty of capital available to make your next purchase, Breitling offers a multitude of options to choose from.

Today we’ll break down a brief history of Breitling, explore a couple of their most popular models, and give insight into how to make an educated decision when you’re preparing to make your next investment.

For the enthusiasts out there looking to gain more knowledge in how to invest strategically, we’ve shared our insights into the luxury watch market and how to navigate it.

Details to pay attention to when looking for a new timepiece, brands that are known to hold their value, and investing guidance are all topics we’ll be discussing in this guide.

Brief History

Since 1884 Breitling has been a watchmaker trusted by explorers and watch connoisseurs alike. Breitling’s rich history alongside their incredible craftsmanship has led them to be a part of the upper echelon of fine Swiss watches and synonymous to brands like Rolex, Omega, and IWC.

Being a highly esteemed watchmaker, Breitlings today are not only being regarded as the ultimate adventure watches but also great investment opportunities.

Being in business for well over a century, Breitling was at the forefront of innovation in the watchmaking world.

They invented the first independent chronograph push-piece in 1915 and in 1923 found a way to separate the two functions of the movement that allow the watch to start/stop and reset the time allowing timekeepers to time successively without resetting the seconds hand to zero.

Breitling at its time of inception was already ahead of Rolex by over 20 years.

From there they became a trusted source of tool watches for aviators, drivers, and divers alike.

During the fifties (think MadMen era) Breitling was making strides in the marketing and advertising side of the house. They launched campaigns that targeted pilots, race car drivers, and divers.

They became a supplier for major airlines like Boeing by providing them with professionally built dashboard instruments to help with the accuracy of flight operations.

The Superoecean watch, aimed at divers wanting to bring style and functionality to the sea, was launched in 1957.

Just five years later Breilting made its way to space on the wrist of Commander Scott Carpenter who orbited the Earth three times with a Navitimer.

Breitling is also the only luxury watch brand that has had a partnership with the Royal Air Force that’s lasted over 20 years. Today, Breitling is independently run by former IWC CEO, Georges Kern.

In 2017 Kern moved in and immediately started transforming the brand into what it is today. He spearheaded a major rebrand, restructuring of the Breitling shops, and scouted new brand ambassadors.

Keeping the history of Breitling alive, Kern divided their products into three main categories; air, land, and sea.

Within these three categories are six watches that stand out in the Breitling collection and serve as great investment pieces.

Which Breitling model holds value best?

Superocean Heritage

This watch is the perfect ensemble of necessary diving capabilities and timeless Breitling style.

The Superocean Heritage is a collection that pays tribute to the original 1957 model and contains hints of the bold sixties aesthetic.

With a variety of options available, you can find a Superocean with a chronograph, date window, or even a special edition with Kelly Slater’s surf wear brand ECONYL.

Adopted by both professional divers and stylish watch enthusiasts, the Superocean Heritage is a surefire option for those wanting to get into Breitling with the perfect balance of durability and style.

Premier Heritage Duograph

For those of you who prefer the juxtaposition of vintage style and modern elegance, this watch is the one for you. The Premier Heritage Dougraph is a piece that demonstrates the pinnacle of Breitling watchmaking.

The “Duograph” term was first used by Breitling in the mid 1940’s. The Duograph refers to a chronograph “rattrapante” (meaning “to catch up” in French) and can measure two elapsed times simultaneously.

Being an elegant timepiece, you can find a Premier Duograph in stainless steel with a blue dial or 18k red gold with a black dial.

Both versions come equipped with a handsome alligator strap. Coming in at retail around ten thousand USD, this watch presents itself as a serious investment piece.

Navitimer

Arguably one of Breitling’s most iconic watches. This pilot’s watch was originally designed in 1952 for aviators to help measure flight calculations. Just a couple years later, the largest pilots club in the world (The AOPA) designated the Navitimier as its official timepiece.

After that point, this watch became an instant classic. It made it to space on the wrist of Scott Carpenter in 1962 and has since been seen on the wrist of countless celebrities.

Aside from plenty of color options available, Breitling has also reintroduced the AOPA wings to the 12 o’clock position. You definitely can’t go wrong with a timeless Navitimer.

Chronomat

The Chronomat is the ideal daily driver for all your adventures. During the quartz revolution in the mid 80’s Breitling introduced a hefty, mechanical chronograph on the unique “Rouleaux” bracelet.

A bold and unexpected move at the time was risky but the Chronomat was instantly deemed as a Breitling staple.

Available in a variety of materials and colors, this watch embodies the versatility of being able to pair finely with a suit for an evening out or with your casual weekend fit, the choice is yours.

Top Time

The Top Time was introduced in the 1960’s specifically for the design minded, young professionals of the era.

This sleek chronograph has an unmistakable dial and quickly became a favorite for enthusiasts and collectors alike who refer to it as the “Zorro dial”.

The design is so eye-catching that the women of the watch community have also shown plenty of interest in this piece. If you’re looking for an investment piece, this is it.

The modern Top Time is limited to 2000 pieces making it a treasure for the beholder.

Do Breitling watches gain value over time?

When purchasing a new Breitling, it can be difficult to determine if it will gain value over the course of time.

The luxury watch market is a difficult space to navigate and will most likely require some assistance by an experienced enthusiast who has a more in depth knowledge of the brands, trends, and things to look for when buying your next watch.

Here are a few tips from our team that will help you navigate your next purchase.

Reference Numbers

Breitling has released a plethora of watches since their inception and each one holds a unique value depending on the design, movement, retail cost, and overall rarity.

When researching your next watch purchase or evaluating your current watch, always check the reference number to see when the piece was made, its cost at retail, and its reputation in the watch community.

A watch that is seen on the wrist of a celebrity or famous athlete will always garner attention and increase in value.

Modern Breitlings will have a reference number that consists of a letter and five numbers and vintage models can be identified by a serial number.

Age

The value of your Breitling may depend on when it was made. For many watch brands, the older the watch is, the more it is valued.

A vintage model of your Brietling will be worth much more than its retail price. Anything that was made into a limited edition will also increase the value with time.

With there being only 2000 modern Top Times, this is the perfect example of a watch that will appreciate with time due to a low supply and high demand.

When buying a new Breitling, plan on taking care of it as best you can so it has a better chance of increasing in value by the time you are ready to sell or trade.

Are Second Hand Breitlings a Good Investment?

Breitlings are amongst the top tier of luxury watches that have the advantage of their name alone driving a ton of value.

Watchmakers that stand behind a rich history and high quality of craftsmanship will always be worth investing in.

A combination of the timeless designs and excellent mechanics of Breitling makes it an evergreen brand worth investing in.

Over the years Breitling has made a significant effort to diversify their catalog and expand the boundaries of modern watchmaking.

The classic models listed above like the Navitimer and Top time are examples of Breitling models that will always hold their value and be sought after in the watch market.

They have also stayed relevant to modern aviation by coming out with various smartwatches designed for pilots and aeronautical professionals.

For the enthusiasts with a more stylistic approach, Breitling has designed many different straps, case, and dial variations that encourage you to find the watch that best fits your aesthetic.

When looking into the second hand market you’ll notice that certain models of Rolex will sell significantly higher than retail.

Second hand Breitlings will not usually experience price hikes like certain Rolex models which in turn makes them great watches to find in the preowned market.

When buying a second hand Breitling you will most likely pay less than the retail price. Finding a second hand watch under retail will help widen your horizons and allow you to explore models that you may not feel comfortable paying retail prices for.

Other Watch Brands that will hold their value

It may be difficult to determine what brand and model will hold its value but there are a select few brands that historically have done an excellent job at holding their value well after their production date.

These brands are the brands you see in movies, on celebrities, and in pop culture. For starters, one of the major watch brands that will always hold their value is Rolex.

Rolex is one of the most well known watch brands in the world and is known as a household name, recognizable by many. Rolex has been around since 1905 and has done an excellent job at marketing their watches to the masses.

A combination of their unmatched craftsmanship and widespread publicity has deemed them one of the most valuable watch brands in the market.

At this current point in time, many of their sport models like the GMT, Daytona, and Submariner are trading around 2-3 times their retail value.

For many, Rolex is the go-to for a versatile, high quality, and stylish timepiece that will hold its value through the test of time.

Another brand that holds its value very well is Patek Philippe. Patek may be lesser known to those unfamiliar with the watch world but they are a favorite name for many enthusiasts, collectors, and admirers of the brand’s fine craftsmanship.

The brand was founded in 1839 in the heart of Swiss watchmaking, Geneva Switzerland.

They have always been at the forefront of Swiss watchmaking by introducing new ways of measuring time and even achieving the world timekeeping precision record for mechanical watches in 1962 that is still unbeaten today.

Patek Philippe has consistently proved that it is a brand worth investing in, between the precise movements and timeless designs, a Patek would be a wonderful addition to your watch collection or as an investment piece.

Audimars Piguet is another watch brand that has been known to hold its value very well and is consistently becoming more popular in today’s culture.

The brand has been consistently seen on NBA players’ wrists, famous artists, and icons of pop culture.

You may recognize the Royal Oak or Aquanaut models that have achieved grail status and are selling for prices well over 100k usd.

Whereas Patek Philipe may seem geared towards the more mature crowd with elegant designs, impressive complications, and leather straps, Audimars Piguet is gaining a lot of traction with the younger crowd with their sleek, modern, stainless steel sports models.

Watch brands that were founded over a century ago are able to rely on the rich history of their brand to be one of the biggest value propositions behind their craftsmanship.

Brands like those mentioned above and others like Omega, IWC, and Jaeger-LeCoultre are perfect examples of this.

A deep history creates a strong foundation for the market to build familiarity and trust around.

This in turn creates value around the watches they produce which then results in the beautiful game of supply and demand we witness in today’s market.

As fellow watch enthusiasts, the Exquisite Timepieces Team will always encourage you to buy a piece you truly love no matter how much of a value prop there is behind the name or model.

Whether it is purely an investment or just for you, it’s important to stand behind your purchase and be educated on the brand’s history and the story of your watch.

We also believe it’s important to expand your horological horizons and learn about the many other watchmakers in the market.

By building a solid foundation of knowledge and understanding of the world of watches you’ll be able to make better informed decisions and have higher chances of finding a watch that you really connect with.

Should I invest in watches?

If you have a genuine interest in watches then we would definitely encourage you to delve into the world of horology.

One of the great things about the watch market is that it is so vastly diverse that you will inevitably find a community based around your same taste in watches.

Being a part of a community based around your favorite watch brand or style of watches becomes a wonderful roi.

You will naturally soak up more knowledge around the history and culture of your timepiece which will strengthen your trust and connectedness to the brand.

If you are looking into purchasing watches purely for the investment purposes, it is still just as important to build knowledge around the brands reputation, history, and value in the aftermarket.

There are many brands in the market that lose tremendous value as soon as they’re deemed “pre owned” and there are those that will guarantee a return especially when they become categorized as “vintage.”

It will be up to the investor to pull the trigger on a watch at the right time and right price. Being a very volatile market, it will inevitably take plenty of time and experience to successfully trade watches as investments.

We don’t recommend going in blindly and jumping straight into purchasing a bunch of watches but rather taking the time and effort to decide your position in the market and your personal investment strategy.

With these two perspectives in mind, we believe there should be a healthy balance between your investment strategy and general curiosity of the watch world.

These two combined will allow you to make smart investment decisions while enjoying the journey along the way.

The watch industry has such a rich history and extensive network in today’s world that it would be impossible not to enjoy participating in something so many live to appreciate.

Back to Breitling

After discussing some of the highlights of Breitlings history, a handful of their most popular models, and where they stand in the market compared to other popular brands, we trust you’ll be equipped to successfully begin your investment journey.

Breitling is held to a high regard in today’s market and will most likely continue to do so.

From their impressive history of watchmaking to their growing popularity today, Breitling offers a fantastic community to be involved in.

Whether you’re just getting into watches or consider yourself an avid collector, finding the right Breitling model can be a great investment.

10 Cheapest Spring Drive Seiko Watches for Every Budget Range

Posted on July 24, 2022December 10, 2024 by William Boyd

Users of mechanical watches know the importance of spring drive technology. Unlike other luxury mechanical watches, the spring drive offers a unique electronic regulator that delivers the best precision.

A spring drive watch can tell time precisely to the last second without making a mistake. Have we talked about the classic designs that offer confidence and prestige?

The mechanism and design make these watches the best for precision and style. If you know anything about spring drive watches, then you know that Seiko is one of the best brands to patronize.

However, you may get overwhelmed by the number of options you find when patronizing the brand. Our article will outline the ten cheapest spring drive Seiko watches to consider when looking for the best spring drive watch options.

How It All Started

The Seiko Spring Drive dream came alive in 1977 when a young, talented engineer with the brand decided to build on his dreams. The young engineer wondered how he could bring “the everlasting watch” dream to fruition.

He dreamed of creating a watch with a mainspring that offered a one-second-a-day accuracy. This engineer envisioned the precision only attainable in the best electronic watches.

Yoshikazu took 28 years of setbacks, persistence, and dedication to achieve his dreams. After more than 600 prototypes, he finally arrived at what he wanted – the best everlasting watch.

Ultimately, he and his team discovered other inventions in making the spring drive watch. Seiko launched his art in 2005 and the collection has flourished since.

Why Choose Seiko Spring Drive Watches?

Seiko Spring Drive watches have certain features that make them desirable to all watch lovers. Since its inception, the Seiko brand has built on the initial design to foster three significant innovations.

The tri-synchro regulatory design is a unique spring drive design created by Seiko to control the mainspring’s mechanical energy.

Additionally, the tri-synchro regulator converts a small part of this mechanical energy into electricity. The converted electricity helps to power the Spring Drive crystal.

Interestingly, the regulator also creates a magnetic force that regulates the glide wheel speed.

Hence, unlike other Spring Drive watches, those from Seiko tend to offer a more efficient regulatory system for perfect time reading.

The alloy used in Seiko’s Spring Drive watches offers extended power and accuracy. Furthermore, the brand uses a unique Magic Lever winding system that fits directly into the rotor shaft.

Hence, the Magic Lever enhances the efficiency of each Seiko spring drive watch and also allows for shorter winding periods.

The lever also increases the power reserve for each spring drive watch you obtain from this brand. Certain features make Seiko’s spring drive watches the perfect luxury chronograph.

Such features include its 12 hours duration, vertical clutch, one-second-a-day, and clutch and column wheel. With these features, Seiko spring drive watches read time precisely and not to the nearest fraction.

If you love jewelry and hand-made designs, you will instantly love these watches. Each spring drive watch from Seiko is uniquely made with 416 parts, 140 oil points, 50 jewels, and five different lubricants.

Also, the watch has a constant 72-hour power reserve which does not depend on the chronograph usage.

These features combine to make Seiko spring drive watches the most desirable timepieces anyone could have. That said, here are some of the brand’s brand’s brand’s most affordable spring drive watches.

Ten Cheapest Seiko Spring Drive Watches

Presage SNR037 – $4,500
Prospex SNR017 – $4,700
Prospex SNR025 – $5,000
Prospex SNR027 – $5,000
Prospex SNR033 – $5,000
Prospex SNR035 – $5,500
Prospex SNR049 – $5,500
Prospex SNR029 – $6,000
Prospex SNR031 – $6,000
Prospex SNR045 – $6,000

1. Presage SNR037 – $4,500

The Presage SNR037 is one of the watches outside Seiko’s Prospex LX line with a spring drive movement. This watch has an excellent dial accompanied by a classic design that reflects the philosophy of modern Japanese design.

Features

Case Design: This watch has a stainless steel case with a width of 40mm and a 13.1mm thickness, less than the Prospex LX watches. The case back features an exhibition chamber that offers a hands-on user experience.
Dial Color: The watch has sapphire crystals like all other watches on our list. In addition, you will find a white enamel dial color and black hands. The dial markers are inscribed in Arabic Numerals.
Water Resistance: The Presage SNR037 has a caliber 5R65 movement with a water resistance of 100m.
Bracelet Style: An exciting feature of this design is the bracelet strap. This model uses a Cordovan strap and a three-fold clasp, offering maximum comfort. You also get a two-year warranty when you purchase this watch.
Functions: The watch has the hours, seconds, minutes, date, and power reserve functions. Unlike the Prospex LX watches, this model does not have the GMT feature.

2. Prospex SNR017 – $4,700

This model stands out because it is the only one with a Spring Drive and moonphase pairing. Other Spring Drive watches from Seiko have been paired with chronographs, GMTs, minute repeaters, and Chronograph GMT. This 200-watch limited edition has a touch of class.

Features

Moonphase and Power Indicator Pairing: Unlike other models on our list, this model pairs the moonphase and power reserve indicator on the watch’s dial. The gloss black dial changes to a frosted texture between the 5:30 and 8:00 indices. Between these indices, you will see a chapter ring power reserve indicator. The power reserve indicator displays the 72-hour gas tank status at any given time.
Exclusive Case Design: Everything about this watch seems complete. The watch has a stainless-steel design with an exciting “three body” case. In addition, the watch, 42mm in diameter, has an interesting pseudo-stepped case form. The watch is quite thick and houses a 6mm thick caliber 5R67 which you can see under an exhibition case back.
Cote de Sole Pattern: While you may compare this watch to the Grand Seiko 9R65, it does not use Tokyo Stripes. Instead, it goes for the Cote de Sole pattern, and this pattern adds more rarity to the watch.

3. Prospex SNR025 – $5000

This model is a GMT version and belongs to the land variation of the Prospex LX line. Moreover, the model is an attractive and sturdy sports watch that won the best sports watch award of the year.

The watch gets its design from the classic Professional Diver model from 1968. Besides its sports features, the watch suits individuals who love adventure.

Features

Basic Features: This watch has a broad and flat titanium case, making it lightweight. The watch case measures 44.8m and has a thickness of 14.7mm. In addition, the model uses Zaratsu Polishing on the surface, making the coating super-hard.
Water Resistance: The Prospex SNR025 has a water resistance of 200m. Since it is a land variation, this resistance is quite good. Additionally, you will find a titanium-made bi-directional compass bezel with a smooth movement on this watch.
GMT Hand: Another good feature is the GMT or second-hour hand, which tells the time difference from your home zone. The second hour hand has a nicely-finished yellow color corresponding to the 24-hour clock markers.
Elegant Dial Design: This brand used metal trims on this model to elegantly frame the hour markers and the power reserve indicator at 08:00. The watch has a sunburst grey to a black pattern that aligns well with the mustard yellow color on the GMT hand. Seiko also uses a satin-finished frame with a typical date font on the date window. Also, you will see a Seiko logo on the dial and markers.
Titanium-made Bracelet: The SNR025 has a titanium-made bracelet like the case. One good thing about this feature is that you can easily adjust the length of the bracelet. It also uses 30 jewels and sapphire crystals in its designs. Unlike our previous pick, this model features a super-clear coating.

4. Prospex SNR027 – $5,000

This model follows the Seiko Landmaster legacy, which you can use for outdoor navigation. The watch is one among the black-coated collections released by Seiko a few years ago.

Although this watch has similar features to other models from the Prospex LX line, some things make the SnR027 stand out. Like other names on our list, you can use this watch for diving and sports.

However, you cannot enjoy deep diving because the watch only supports a limited dive depth.

Features

3 Days Power Reserve: You can enjoy a three-day power reserve when using this watch. The 3-day power reserve offers long-lasting precision as you go out for your adventures.
Bi-directional Navigational Compass Bezel: This watch has a dual direction compass bezel and a GMT hand inspired by a compass needle. Additionally, the color of the Lumibrite material used in the design gives this watch a classic feel. While other versions of this LX design have a white color, this design features a green-colored luminant material to ensure it stands out.
Scratch-resistant Black Coating: Seiko combines a scratch-resistant coating with a lightweight titanium case to offer a better wearing experience. Also, Seiko uses a band material made of calfskin for this watch.
Large But Lightweight Casing: Although the cases are not small, you will not feel the weight due to the titanium, which makes it lightweight. The Seiko SNR027 measures 44.8mm in width and 14.7mm in thickness. Additionally, it has a 50.9mm lug-to-lug distance. With a 106g weight, you can quickly wear this watch without feeling uncomfortable.
Water Resistant: Although this watch best suits land usage, you can use it for light diving that does not exceed 200m. This resistance outclasses other LX GMT watches that typically have 100m of water resistance.
Independent Power Reserve Dial: The SNR027 has a Seiko caliber 5R66 auto Spring Drive GMT movement. The movement indicates the date and time. In addition, you will find an independently controlled GMT hand inside the watch.

5. Prospex SNR033 – $5,500

The SNR033 is another model belonging to the LX line of watches. Most people believe this watch is the successor of the Grand Seiko SBGE001.

However, this model’s styling and case materials suggest a superior taste.

All the materials used on this model point towards longevity and durability. One other impressive thing about this model is the exquisite color palettes used.

The bold proportions are very enticing, along with its classical-looking GMT designs.

Features

Extremely Light Design: Although you will find that the watch has a diameter of 44.8mm and 14.7mm thickness, the titanium used to make the watch offers a lightweight outlook. Hence, you can wear this watch without feeling uncomfortable.
Super-hard Bracelet Coating: Seiko uses a super-hard bracelet coating to ensure the watch doesn’t scratch easily. You can also find this coating on the watch case, which makes the watch long-lasting and suitable for everyday use.
24-hour Bezel: Seiko introduces a 24-hour bezel on this model. Regardless of the light conditions, you will enjoy excellent legibility. The blue and black color palettes blend correctly to give the watch a classic and relaxed feel. Seiko uses aluminum in its bezel design to make it shiny. Also, the brand uses a sapphire cover and 30 jewels in the design.
Comfortable Bracelet: Like all its other spring drive LX options, SNR033 has a titanium-made bracelet. The case also has this titanium design and spots excellent angles. However, the difference between this model and others is that it has slightly wider angles, and the surface has a nicer polishing which gets more light. The bracelet also houses a three-fold clasp with a push button. These features make the watch secure on the wrist.

6. Prospex SNR035 – $5,500

This model is a member of the three black-coated watches that look much like the titanium models.

Besides its black coating, this model differs from the others because the bracelet strap has a different material.

The model resembles the others within the LX line because it contains a GMT hand for travelers.

Another difference you will observe is that this model has a lower water resistance compared to the other options we have presented on our list.

Features

Excellent Case Design: Prospex LX SNR035 has a beautiful case back and screw-down crown. It is no longer news to hear that the watch has sapphire crystals on its dial. Additionally, the model has a solid titanium-infused case with large dimensions. The case measures 50.9mm in length and 44.8mm in width, with a thickness of 14.7mm. This watch is relatively heavier than the SNR027 but still lightweight enough.
Blackout Bezel: The SNR035 uses a blackout bezel for its GMT function. In addition, the watch has a self-winding caliber with a 4800 A/m magnetic resistance and a power reserve indicator. You can find the power reserve indicator between the seven and eight o’clock hands.
Leather-Strapped Bracelets: This model spots a glorious black color that matches the silver-framed luminite hands of the bracelets. Furthermore, the brand uses luminite to fill up the bracelets. Unlike other designs on our list, Seiko uses a black crocodile leather strap containing a three-fold clasp. The leather design used gives the watch a classic and elegant touch.
Water Resistant: The Prospex LX SNR035 has a lower water resistance than the other options on our list. This model has a water resistance of 100m. However, considering this watch is not for diving, the resistance is enough.

7. Prospex SNR049 – $5,500

This titanium watch has a limited number of 400 watches. The watch has a faceted form that looks much like Grand Seiko due to its Zaratsu polishing. You can use this watch if you fancy deep diving activities.

Features

Compact Design: Although this watch has intimidating dimensions, you will be surprised that it is closer than you can imagine. Moreso, the watch is light and comfortable to carry despite having a diameter of 44.8mm and a thickness of 14.7mm. Also, this model has a lug-to-lug of 50.9mm. Surprisingly, the watch wears like a 42mm watch.
Unique Sapphire Bezel: One unique thing you will notice about this GMT model is the black and blue sapphire bezel that matches its black to blue-gradient dial. The colors blend naturally and provide pleasing aesthetics.
Time Adjustment Function: This reference piece has a time-reference, calendar-linked adjustment function that heightens your GMT experience. The Zaratsu-polished titanium case also helps to improve the model’s functionality.
Water Resistant: This model only has a 100m water resistance. Hence, you can use this watch for shallow diving activities, and the design mainly favors sporting and adventure activities.

8. Prospex SNR029 – $6000

The Prospex LX Spring Drive Diver SNR029 is a refined classic tool watch. This typical Seiko dive watch has a surprising degree of refinements that brings back memories of the 1968 Hi-Beat diver design.

A good thing about this watch is that it has mid-range pricing.

This watch also scores highly in fit, functionality, and finish. The watch has excellent legibility and keeps perfect time. Additionally, the watch has a quality dial and case design with a good-enough bracelet.

Features

Excellent Precision: The Seiko SNR029 has a ±1 second per day precision that ensures the watch tells the time accurately.
30-Jewel Design: The 30-jewel design adds more glamor to the design and improves its aesthetics. In addition, the watch uses Saphhire crystals with anti-reflective coatings on the inner surface.
Functions: This watch has a 72-hour power reserve with a power reserve indicator and a date display. With this model, you can find a “stop second hand” feature that allows you to pause the second hand’s movement.
Titanium Casing: The titanium casing used in this model offers a super-hard coating that protects the watch. Also, the watch has a 15.7mm thickness with a diameter of 44.8mm and a lug-to-lug of 50.9mm. You will also find a three-fold clasp with a secure lock and push release button alongside a solid slide adjuster.
Water Resistant: The SNR029 allows users to dive as deep as 300m or 1000ft for saturation diving. The air-tight design prevents water from seeping into the watch.

9. Prospex SNR031 – $6,000

The SNR031 is a modern version of Seiko’s SBDX001 Mrinemaster. One feature that distinguishes this watch from other diver watches is the different bracelet design.

Also, this watch does not have the Seiko brand impressed on the dial like other options.

Features

Excellent Dial Design; Seiko’s Prospex LX SNR031 comes in a brooding black shade with contrasting hands and indexes. The design has large hands with circular indexes except for the rectangular indexes at 3, 6, and 9 O’clock. The index hands have a luminescent design that allows for proper lighting and time reading in dim conditions.
300m Water Resistance: The luminiscent design and water resistance say everything about this watch. Seiko’s SNR031 best suits deep diving activities.
Outstanding Case: This model has a smooth, curved profile with a single continuous edge that runs from the bottom lug to the top. The case has angular sections that reflect light even with the black super-hard coating.
Rotating Bezel: Seiko’s SNR031 has a unidirectional rotating bezel fitted in the case. Furthermore, you will find a screw-down crown positioned at the 4 O’clock index.

10. Prospex SNR045 – $6,000

This model has almost similar features to that of SNR049.

However, the distinguishing factor is that it does not have the GMT complication; instead, it has an added water resistance compared to the SNR049.

This model also has additional features that elevate the user experience.

Features

Water Resistant: The most outstanding feature of this watch is the 300m water resistance feature. The feature gives more depth to divers who want to enjoy a quality watch without ruining its design.
Exquisite Bezel Design: Another thing you will notice at first glance is the green textured dial and green bezel. The color adds more glamor to an already splendid design.
Zaratsu Hand-Finished Case: Seiko uses Zaratsu hand finishing on the watch case. Together with the Spring Drive caliber 5R65, this watch stands stall among other green watches on the market.
Lightweight: Although this watch looks big on paper, the titanium used in its design makes it lightweight and easy to wear. Hence, you will not feel uncomfortable using this Spring Drive Seiko watch.

Conclusion

We have reviewed the ten cheapest Spring Drive Seiko watches you can patronize. You may have noticed that these watches are not that cheap.

However, considering the design and materials put into their production, you will say these Seiko watches are worth the price.

We have included several designs with varying prices to help you make a more preferred choice.

Hence, you can pick from any of these watches to experience elegance with a touch of class and efficiency.

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