David Castagno, Author at Exquisite Timepieces - Page 2 of 2

 

Author: David Castagno

Best Sinn dive watches

For those who grew up on 80s/90s movies, like me, we lived through a time in the action film genre that is now fading into obscurity. We no longer have films being made with strong and stoic heroes. 

While some will argue that this is a good thing, I believe that there is always space in the pop-culture zeitgeist for the rough-and-tumble, take no prisoners type.

So, I’m sure it’s no surprise to you that one of my favorite watch brands is Sinn, the quintessential stoic, overbuilt, rough-and-tumble brand known for its manufacturing of timepieces that can endure some of the world’s most extreme conditions.

Sinn, a brand that is loved by enthusiasts and can be described as an uber utility/ultimate tool watch, was founded in 1961 by Helmut Sinn, a former WWII pilot. Initially manufacturing navigation clocks and pilot’s chronographs, Sinn would explore the last frontier (space) before they explored the depths of our oceans.

In an attempt to highlight some of Sinn’s best terrestrial timepieces, we will be discussing the 15 Best Sinn Dive Watches, so take a deep breath, hold it in, and prepare for some in-depth content.

SINN: WHY IT SHOULD BE ON YOUR RADAR

I think it is safe to say that many of us in the watch enthusiast community know Sinn as the perfect entry into German watchmaking. 

While some of its German counterparts e.g. A. Lange & Söhne, Glashütte Original, and even to some degree NOMOS Glashütte, are known for their high degree of finishing and stylings, they aren’t necessarily known for their pursuit of durability and functionality.

With that said, I think that is the reason Sinn should be on your radar.

Sinn offers incredibly well-made, durable, and highly legible tool watches that encompass a very German design language at a very affordable price. 

While I understand that affordability is a subjective matter, I do think that for an enthusiast looking for a German timepiece to add to their collection, Sinn is an amazing brand that still offers some great value-for-money timepieces with some of their entry-level collections.

Some great examples of this are the Sinn 556, a modern tough-as-nails answer to the Rolex Explorer, and the Sinn 105 UTC, a wonderful GMT alternative to the Rolex Explorer II. Both can be had for less than $2,000 on the secondary market.

HISTORY: SINN DIVE WATCHES

While Sinn has produced many timepieces with water resistance ratings that align with any modern dive watch, it wasn’t until the mid-90s that Sinn started to push technological advances specifically for dive watches.

In 1995, Sinn developed Hydro technology. This meant that a watch would be filled with crystal clear oil with the same reflexive index as the sapphire crystal, allowing the watch to be legible from any angle without glare, free from fogging, and pressure resistant at “all possible diving depths.”

But, it wouldn’t be until 2005 that the utilitarian German brand would release the dive-focused legend that is the Sinn U1. So, without further ado, let’s jump into our list and start it off with the legend itself.

The Best Sinn Dive Watches

1. Sinn U1 Diving Watch (ref. 1010.010)

Sinn U1 Diving Watch (ref. 1010.010)

As stated above, the Sinn U1 was first released in 2005 and has since become one of the industry’s most easily recognized dive watches due to its unique design language.

The U1 has a case diameter of 44mm, a case thickness of 14.7mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 51mm. The U1 is by no means a watch for smaller-wristed enthusiasts, but due to its rather compact lug-to-lug distance, it wears much smaller than the dimensions would suggest.

Like all of Sinn’s dive watches, the U1 is made from media-blasted submarine steel, which is a harder steel than 316L thus being more corrosion resistant. But, like all Sinn timepieces, the U1 wouldn’t be what it is without Sinn’s quirky, Bauhaus-esque design language. 

The matte black dial and bright white printed indices make the U1 highly legible while the red accents that adore the syringe-style hands give the stark dial a much-needed splash of color.

2. Sinn U2 EZM 5 Mission Timer (ref. 1020.010)

Sinn U2 EZM 5 Mission Timer (ref. 1020.010)

The Sinn U2 EZM 5 Mission Timer ref. 1020.010 is an amazing example of Sinn’s ability to create highly functional and large timepieces that work well on a multitude of wrist sizes.

Like the U1, the EZM 5 Mission Timer has a case diameter of 44mm. Where it diverges just a bit is in the case thickness of 15.7mm thick, the extra thickness is due to the added functionality of this wonderful dive timepiece.

The EZM 5 not only offers dive watch capabilities with its elapsed time dive bezel, but it also offers the ability to track a second time zone in a 24-hour format.

But, hands down, one of the coolest features on the EZM 5 is the Ar-Dehumidifying technology that is offered with this watch. This means that the watch is nitrogen-filled, removing moisture and impurities. This is indicated by a copper sulfate capsule at 6:00.

3. Sinn U50 Diving Watch (ref. 1050.010)

Sinn U50 Diving Watch (ref. 1050.010)

In the last three to four years, we have seen a movement towards smaller/midsize dive watches. For example, we have seen some big players like Tudor release the incredibly popular Black Bay 58, which comes in at 39mm, the Pelagos 39, and even more recently at Watches and Wonders 2023, Tudor released the Black Bay 54, a midsize dive watch that has a case diameter of 37mm.

With that said, it is no surprise that Sinn followed suit in order to reach a wider audience who love the Sinn aesthetic but not the Sinn size. So in 2020, Sinn released the U50, the little brother to the U1.

With a case diameter of 41mm, a case thickness of just 11.2mm, and a lug-to-lug of 47mm, this compact 500m dive watch is easily the most wearable in the Sinn dive collection and one that works with a variety of wrist sizes.

Much like its big brother, the U50 is highly legible and incredibly robust. The U50 even comes equipped with a Tegimented bezel. Tegimenting is a chemical process that raises the hardness level of the base metal, making it even more durable and resistant to daily wear and tear.

4. Sinn T1 EZM 14 (ref. 1014.010)

Sinn T1 EZM 14 (ref. 1014.010)

The Sinn T1 EZM 14 is another timepiece that is part of the Sinn Mission Timer series of watches. With that said, like many of the other EZM watches, the T1 is a purpose-built tool, which means it needs to be durable, accurate, and legible.

The T1 is all of the above, especially durable. The T1 is made from high-strength grade-five titanium, which means that the T1 is not only durable, titanium being stronger than steel, but it is lightweight and even more resistant to saltwater, making the T1 an excellent option for a dive watch.

The T1 also has a different case shape from the other Sinn watches that we have talked about thus far. The cushion-styled case of the T1 has a case diameter of 45mm which sounds huge, but with a lug-to-lug of only 49mm, the T1 wears very compactly, especially with a case thickness of 12.5mm.

Aesthetically the T1 differs from other Sinn divers. The T1 was the first Sinn dive watch to use an arrow for the minute hand. Due to the hour and minute hands being so different, they are easily legible and distinguishable in low light.

5. Sinn U1 SDR (ref. 1010.040)

Sinn U1 SDR (ref. 1010.040)

In the pantheon of legendary Sinn dive watches, the Sinn U1 SDR is a timepiece that exudes a certain type of toolish charm with just a hint of ultra-modern styling.

While, yes, the U1 SDR is basically just a U1 with a black bezel, I think it looks the part for a modern, highly legible tool watch with the same capabilities and functionality as the classic U1.

But, if you are looking for a great German dive watch and the U1 is just a little too sterile, or maybe the right wear is surgical, I think the black bezeled U1 SDR is the perfect timepiece for you.

6. Sinn 206 Arktis II Diving Chronograph (ref. 206.012)

Sinn 206 Arktis II Diving Chronograph (ref. 206.012)

As we continue our deep dive into Sinn dive watches, we come to our very first chronograph on the list, the Sinn 206 Arktis II Diving Chronograph ref. 206.012.

The Sinn 206 Arktis II has a case diameter of 43mm and a lug-to-lug distance of 48.9mm, meaning that this highly polished stainless steel dive chronograph wears very compact considering its case diameter. For reference, the Arktis II falls right between the Tudor Black Bay 41 & 58 in regard to its lug-to-lug distance.

One of the stand-out features on the Arktis II is the beautiful sunburst ice-blue dial. The blue dial and satin metallic bezel are a great two-tone combination for anyone looking to add a hint of subtle color to their stable of timepieces.

Powered by a top-grade Valjoux 7750 movement with Sinn’s proprietary extreme temperature technology (tested to -45 degrees Celsius), the Arktis II is the perfect dive chronograph for the enthusiast looking for something a little different.

7. Sinn U2 SDR (ref. 1020.040)

Sinn U2 SDR (ref. 1020.040)

As discussed earlier in our list, the U1 and U1 SDR, the Sinn U2 SDR ref. 1020.040 is a black bezeled version of its classically styled (by Sinn standards) U2 EZM Mission timer. And, much like the U2, the U2 SDR is an amazingly capable dive watch with the added functionality of a GMT.

What sets the U2 and U2 SDR apathy from other “dive gmt” watches has to be its actual water resistance rating of 2000m. The closest competitors within the same price range are the Seiko Prospex SPB383 diver GMT with 200m water resistance, the Tudor Black Bay GMT with 200m of water resistance, and the Oris Aquis GMT with 300m of water resistance.

So to put the astonishing U2 SDRs water resistance rating into perspective 2000m is roughly 1.25 miles, the same distance traveled during the Kentucky Derby! So if you are looking for a dive GMT with true dive capabilities, the U2 SDR might just be the piece for you.

8. Sinn T50 (ref. 1052.010)

Sinn T50 (ref. 1052.010)

For anyone who has followed Sinn over the last decade, it makes sense that the Sinn T50 would be the successor to the already popular U50. But it was still an unexpected release to start 2023.

The newest addition to the Sinn lineup is the Sinn T50, a bead-blasted titanium-cased version of the hugely popular and much-loved U50.

While the T50 definitely gives off IWC/Porsche Design Titan vibes, the T50 gives enthusiasts the same wearable/liveable U50 design and dimensions in an even lighter, stronger, and more durable titanium case. 

While the T50 resembles the U50 in almost every way, the biggest departure and one that I happen to love is the new handset. Sinn opted to change the classic Sinn syringe handset to a sword-style handset. A welcomed change for me. It gives me Rolex Milsub vibes that might just scratch an ever-present itch that I may never be able to get rid of.

9. Sinn EZM 3 Diving Watch (ref. 603.010)

Sinn EZM 3 Diving Watch (ref. 603.010)

The Sinn EZM 3 might be one of my favorite dive watches on this list.  The Sinn EZM 3 has a case diameter of 41mm, a case thickness of 12.5mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 48mm, which means, like many of the watches on our list, it is highly wearable on a wide range of wrist sizes.

Like the last timepiece on our list, the T50, the EZM 3 gives me Milsub vibes, not because of the sword handset, but because of the fully graduated dive bezel and no-nonsense stylings of this awesome Mission Timer.

One great feature of the EZM is the soft iron inner cage similar to a Rolex Milgauss, which means that this watch is antimagnetic up to 80,000 A/m. 

The EZM 3 is a great dive watch that could be the perfect daily wear for some of our left-handed readers due to the crown being on the left-hand side of the case. But, fear not, it will wear just as comfortably on any right-handed wearer and offer more for the money than some other options within this tier of the market.

10. Sinn U50 SDR (ref. 1050.040)

Sinn U50 SDR (ref. 1050.040)

I know I said that the EZM 3 was one of my favorite watches on the list due to its simple yet functional design and fully graduated dive bezel, but there is something to be said about a black bezeled U50 with classic Sinn syringe hands.

I’m not sure what it is, but there will always be something intangible about the U50, especially with a black bezel that will always draw me in like a moth to a flame.

Again, like its sibling, you have 500m of water resistance in a submarine steel case that has a diameter of 41mm, a case thickness of 11.2 mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 47mm. The differentiating factor, and the one that won me over, is the black bezel.

The black bezel adds a certain familiarity to a dive watch that might be missing in the original U50 but, nonetheless, creates a vibe evocative of a true tool that can be used in almost any scenario.

11. Sinn UX EZM 2B Mission Timer (ref. 403.030)

Sinn UX EZM 2B Mission Timer (ref. 403.030)

After discussing some of Sinn’s technological advances earlier in the article, we haven’t actually discussed a watch that utilizes the HYDRO technology until now. The Sinn UX EXM 2B is a mission timer designed for the special forces with the ability to withstand the most extreme of situations. 

Powered by a Lithium-Ion battery the robust, highly precise quartz-driven ETA 995.652 movement is reliable even in temperatures ranging from -25 degrees Celsius to 60 degrees Celsius.

The UX EZM 2B has a case diameter of 44mm and a case thickness of 13.3mm, which means that this purpose-driven dive watch is a great option for anyone looking to add a little tactical bravado to their wrist.

12. Sinn U1 S Mother-of-pearl S (ref. 1010.0242)

Sinn U1 S Mother-of-pearl S (ref. 1010.0242)

If I’m being honest, the Sinn U1 S Mother-Of-Pearl S ref. 1010.0242 doesn’t do it for me. In my mind, it doesn’t make sense. Now, don’t let that discourage you from looking into this timepiece; if MOP is your thing, it just doesn’t happen to be mine.

While I understand that Sinn is trying to appeal to a different market with the U1 MOP, it just doesn’t seem to make sense. 

You have a legendary tool watch that is purpose-built for a reason, with a dial that is more difficult to read, with no added benefit other than aesthetics.

The only redeeming feature on this U1 MOP is that the case and bracelet are all coated in a “Black Hard Coating” that gives this timepiece an amazing tactical look with the added durability of a DLC coating. 

If Sinn utilized the “Black Hard Coating” on the U1 with a fully lumed dial, similar to the Tag Heuer Night Diver, you could bet I’d stand in any line to get that timepiece.

13. Sinn EZM 13.1 Diving Chronograph (ref. 613.011)

 Sinn EZM 13.1 Diving Chronograph (ref. 613.011)

When discussing Sinn, most enthusiasts’ minds tend to drift towards a functionality they are very well known for, the chronograph, but more specifically, a pilot’s chronograph. But, as we have seen so far on this list, Sinn does an amazing job with their dive watches, so it goes without saying that a Sinn dive chronograph would be no different, an incredible piece.

With that said, the next watch on our list is the Sinn EZM 13.1 Diving Chronograph. With a case diameter of 41mm and a case thickness of 15mm, the EZM 13.1 has a Destro case design meaning the crown and pushers are on the left-hand side of the case. In Italian, Destro translates to right, which is typically the wrist that a left-handed person would wear their watch on. 

So long story short, the watch is designed to be worn on the right wrist, but much like the Tudor Pelagos LHD, the EZM 13.1 can be enjoyed by anyone regardless of the wrist it is on.

14. Sinn T50 GBDR (ref. 1052.020)

Sinn T50 GBDR (ref. 1052.020)

Sinn has always stayed true to their design language. I know this is something that we have already discussed and made mention of in this article, but it is something that just can’t be ignored when discussing the brand.

Their design is so unique and so very Teutonic that a Sinn watch is unmistakable. But, just when you think Sinn is set in their ways, they break the mold and release the brother to the already discussed T50, the T50 GBDR.

The T50 GBDR, for all intent and purpose, is the same exact watch as the T50, but with one glaring and obvious difference, a bronze dive bezel in a Sinn-developed and patent pending alloy called Goldbronze 125.

While the use of somewhat unconventional materials is common for Sinn, the Goldbronze 125 used on the T50 GBDR is a departure from their traditional stoic design style.

So, if you’re looking for a Sinn that is a little unconventional by Sinn standards, the T50 GBDR, with its use of titanium and Goldbronze 125, might just be the Sinn for you.

15. Sinn U212 EZM 16 Diving Watch (ref. 212.040)

Sinn U212 EZM 16 Diving Watch (ref. 212.040)

For many of us, Sinn timepieces straddle the line between just right and slightly too big. While they generally wear smaller than their dimensions would have you believe, the last timepiece on our list, the Sinn U212 EZM 16, is large, in charge, and would wear perfectly on any 80s action hero’s wrist.

The U212 EZM comes in with a whopping 47mm case diameter but with a case thickness of only 14.5mm, meaning that this extra-large timepiece seems to wear a little flatter than the U1, U2, or UX series of watches due to its expanse on the wrist.

The almost entirely black and white colorway has just a splash of red to denote the water resistance (1000m!) and borrows the same sword-style hands from the U2 and the UX.

And, finally, the fully graduated bezel has a little trick of its own. While it isn’t specific to the U212 but rather all of Sinn’s timepieces with a rotating bezel, the bezel of the U212 is a captive bezel meaning it is retained by tiny screws and can withstand the hardest of blows.

Parting Thoughts

Today’s list was a fun one. Before starting, I was already a bit of a self-proclaimed Sinn fanboy, but from the research aspect, I was pleasantly surprised and learned more about Sinn than I could have ever wished. 

Sinn is the no-nonsense Teutonic watch brand whose name is synonymous with quality and ruggedness. Sinn is also undoubtedly a brand that constantly reassures its wearers that what they have is special. 

They are true purpose-driven tools, that in their brief history, have given the watch community a stoic hero to root for.

So if you are in need of your next go anywhere, do anything tool watch, check out Sinn’s dive watch line for an adventurous option that stands out from the crowd.

Best Tissot dive watches

Tissot is a name that has a rich history in the annals of horology. Originally founded in 1853, in Le Locle, Switzerland, by Charles-Félicien Tissot and his son Charles-Émile Tissot, this father and son duo found early success with the launch of their first timepiece, a two-timezone pocket watch.

The accuracy and craftsmanship of this timepiece would pave the way for future success and innovations. In the years to follow, Tissot would be among many firsts for the world of horology, with the two most important being they were the first watch company to mass-produce pocket watches and the first to develop anti-magnetic timepieces.

Now that the basic housekeeping of the who, when, and where is out of the way, we can now discuss the topic of today’s article. 

While Tissot sells millions of watches a year, we will not focus on the brand as a whole and its many different lines, but rather one; the Seastar collection.

So grab your trunks, goggles, and fins because today we are talking about the 15 Best Tissot Dive Watches and all of their aquatic glory.

Tissot or Not to Tissot, That Is the Question

I think it is safe to say that many of us in the watch enthusiast community know Tissot as the perfect entry-level luxury watch brand with many offerings/collections that range from lower-end quartz-powered models to much higher-end automatic timepieces in precious metals. Yup, you heard that right; precious metals.

But, while the topic of today’s article will focus on Tissot’s dive collection, the Seastar, it is worth mentioning that the Swatch Group brand has much more to offer than just a great dive watch.

One of those offerings being the PRX collection. Since their re-release and revival of the iconic PRX, originally launched in 1978, Tissot has been doing some great things with the collection. They have released many variants in different sizes, colors, and even complications. The latter is a stunning chronograph that would look at home on any race track. 

Though it is not the only great collection in the catalog (e.g. Gentleman, T-Touch, and Le Locle), the PRX line has been helping Tissot attract new enthusiasts to the brand.

So, if you are new to watches and need a place to start, check out all of what Tissot has to offer and then ask yourself, Tissot or not to Tissot?

History: Tissot Dive Watches

Even though Tissot is the twelfth oldest watch brand in existence, the history and documentation of the Seastar collection prove to be a rather difficult task. Not because the line has been unsuccessful, far from it.

But since its launch in the 60s, the Seastar has had a high production volume and a wide array of models, which may have helped the Seastar collection find success, but it also means that it got lost in the dive watch boom of the 60s and 70s. 

The Seastar, like many other early dive watches, was a tool, a functional piece of equipment meant to help those partaking in the new and burgeoning sport of recreational diving. So, it is no surprise that the watch is still in production and as popular as ever.

As you will see in this article, there are a plethora of Seastar models in different case sizes, colors, and movement types. With that said I believe that the Seastar collection has positioned itself as a great watch for the money in the entry-level luxury sector of the market.

The Best Tissot Dive Watches

1. Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 Black Dial 
 (ref. T120.407.11.051.00)

 Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 Black Dial 
 (ref. T120.407.11.051.00)

The Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 in 316L stainless steel is an incredibly strong way to start off our list today and is a pretty great value for money. With a case diameter of 43mm and a case thickness of 12.7mm, the Seastar 1000 Black Dial is a very capable dive watch with 300m of water resistance. 

For a reference point, the Rolex Submariner has a very similar case thickness and the same water resistance; the biggest and main difference is the case diameter of the Seastar and, obviously, the price. 

With that said, the Seastar 1000s ink black dial, black ceramic unidirectional bezel, 6 o’clock date, and applied indices make up a very nice-looking timepiece. 

The stand-out feature for this watch, and any watch with the Powermatic 80 movement, is the 80-hour power reserve. It gives you the ability to wear this timepiece in your weekly rotation without having to wind and adjust it every time you put it on.

2. Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Light Blue Gradient Dial 
(ref. T120.607.11.041.00)

Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Light Blue Gradient Dial 
(ref. T120.607.11.041.00)

The Seastar 2000 Professional with the light blue gradient dial definitely fills the role of the Seastar 1000’s big brother in almost every way. 

The Seastar 2000, with its amped-up specs, is a great addition to the Seastar line. This professional-grade timepiece comes in a little larger than the Seastar 1000 with a case diameter of 46mm and a case thickness of 16.3mm.

Much like its little brother, the Seastar 2000 comes equipped with a ceramic unidirectional bezel, applied indices, and date at 6 o’clock. But, the stand-out feature for the Seastar 2000 that really does prove to be an upgrade, aesthetically, is the dial.

The beautiful light blue gradient dial with wave motif is very reminiscent of Seiko’s Save the Ocean wave dials, but the “light blue” almost teal-colored Seastar 2000 is what separates the two.

3. Tissot Seastar 1000 40mm Quartz Blue Dial (ref. T120.410.11.041.00)

Tissot Seastar 1000 40mm Quartz Blue Dial (ref. T120.410.11.041.00)

I think that, as watch enthusiasts, we tend to romanticize the idea of mechanical watches. While I love them and will always find an excuse to buy another, there are much more realistic ways to tell the time; for example, your phone, you always have it on you, and it will always be more accurate than your mechanical timepiece.

But, if it is the accuracy you are after and you still want something antiquated but fun on your wrist, your best bet will always be quartz. In steps, the Tissot Seastar 1000 quartz. A beautiful stainless steel dive watch with a case diameter of 40mm, a case thickness of a mere 10mm, and a water resistance of 300m! 

The accuracy and ease of use with the quartz movement in the Seastar 1000 is really the selling point of this timepiece. It is the perfect timepiece for someone who isn’t a die-hard mechanical purist but still wants the functionality of a capable dive watch.

4. Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 Rose Gold (ref. T120.407.37.051.01)

 Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 Rose Gold (ref. T120.407.37.051.01)

The Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 in rose gold is most definitely one of the most stylish timepieces on our list today. Much like its sibling, the Seastar 1000 black dial variant, the rose gold Seastar has a case diameter of 43mm and a case thickness of 12.7mm. 

Also, like its sibling and older sibling, the Seastar 2000, this modern-looking angular case is a treat to wear and an even better treat to look at.

With its rose gold PVD coated 316L stainless steel case, the Seastar 1000 rose gold is a great statement piece to wear out on a night on the town and will fit nicely under a dress cuff due to its relatively thin case. 

One departure from the timepieces we have already talked about on today’s list is the rubber strap. While all of the variants on the list so far come on a stainless steel bracelet, the rose gold Seastar comes on a very nice fitted black rubber strap with matte black tang and buckle.

5. Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Navy Blue Gradient Dial 
(ref. T120.607.37.041.00)

Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Navy Blue Gradient Dial 
(ref. T120.607.37.041.00)

I would have to describe the Seastar 2000 Professional with navy blue gradient dial as the moody older brother in the Seastar family of watches. It also happens to be one of my favorite timepieces on the list.

While they share similarities in the case dimensions and use of the Powermatic 80 movement, that’s where they end. The Seastar 2000 navy blue is aesthetically so different from the light blue that, at a glance, it could be a different watch.

The Seastar 2000 Professional navy blue variant comes with a black PVD-coated case and an amazing deep navy blue gradient dial whose edges mimic the inky black waters of the deep ocean.

While the dial still has the familiar wave motif, there is something sinister and angry about the dial that reminds me of a stormy ocean. All in all, I think that the Seastar 2000 w/ navy blue gradient dial is a great pick for a timepiece that is just a little different from the rest of the collection.

6. Tissot Seastar 1000 Quartz Chronograph Green Gradient Dial 
(ref. T120.417.11.091.01)

Tissot Seastar 1000 Quartz Chronograph Green Gradient Dial 
(ref. T120.417.11.091.01)

As discussed earlier, there is an easy ruggedness and a grab-and-go attitude when it comes to quartz-driven watches. They are particularly convenient when you have a rotation of multiple watches. The Tissot Seastar 1000 Quartz Chronograph w/ green gradient dial is the perfect addition to a rotation that needs a little color and convenience.

With a case diameter of 45.5mm and a case thickness of 12.8mm, this quartz-driven dive chronograph is a wonderful tool watch and a great entry if you are looking to add a dive chronograph to your collection. The modern case is completed with a screw-down crown and pushers, allowing 300m of water resistance.

The unidirectional aluminum bezel gives this modern dive watch a hint of vintage aesthetic that will likely age and patina well in the coming years. The beautiful gradient green dial, which is leaning more towards a dark teal, comes complete with three subdials, applied indices, and a color-matched date window at the four-thirty position.

7. Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 Light Gray 
(ref. T120.407.11.081.01)

Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 Light Gray 
(ref. T120.407.11.081.01)

One of my favorite features of the Seastar line is something we haven’t discussed in detail, the bezel. While it is similar to most models of the Seastar line, one of its best attributes is the conical sloped shape. It adds a sense of refinement and helps it stand out from other watches at this price point.

With that said, I think that one of the best-looking Seastar bezel/bezel insert combinations comes on the Seastar 1000 in light gray.

The monochromatic Seastar 1000, like its siblings, has a case diameter of 43mm and a case thickness of 12.7mm. But what helps this reference stand out in the line is its almost surgical aesthetic, which is very reminiscent of an aged diver with a ghost-like patina.

I think that most of the Seastar collection can be considered strap monsters, but I think that due to the subdued color scheme, the Seastar 1000 light gray is the most versatile and one that could be worn with a strap of any color or pattern.

8. Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Gray Gradient Dial 
(ref. T120.607.17.441.00)

Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Gray Gradient Dial 
(ref. T120.607.17.441.00)

As discussed earlier in the list, the Seastar 2000 is the professional grade dive watch from the Seastar family. But, one thing we haven’t discussed about the beefed-up big brother is its helium escape valve.

For those who don’t dive, the helium escape valve on a professional dive watch with high water resistance is meant to release trapped helium build-up while saturation diving at great depths, preventing your timepiece from being damaged by the high pressures of the deep ocean atmosphere.

As far as enthusiasts go, 99% of us will never need the luxury of a helium escape valve, but as Tim Mosso from The Watchbox says, “It’s a great conversation starter.”

9. Tissot Seastar 1000 36mm Quartz White Dial (ref. T120.210.11.011.00)

Tissot Seastar 1000 36mm Quartz White Dial (ref. T120.210.11.011.00)

We have finally arrived at the spot on our list with a watch that is a great size for those with smaller wrists. With a case diameter of 36mm and a case thickness of 9.7mm, the quartz-powered Seastar 1000 w/ white dial is a stunner and maybe the perfect summer watch.

While yes, it is a small dive watch, I think that the Seastar 1000 occupies a part of the market that is important to attracting new and female enthusiasts. Its only competition at this price point is the Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Quartz in 37mm. 

While both brands are part of the Swatch Group, Hamilton as a whole is a great brand with a great history, but I think for the money spent, the Tissot Seastar gives you a little more refinement with its white lacquered dial and case design.

10. Tissot Seastar 1000 Quartz Chronograph Blue Dial 
(ref. T120.417.11.041.03)

Tissot Seastar 1000 Quartz Chronograph Blue Dial 
(ref. T120.417.11.041.03)

Tissot’s Blue variant of the Seastar 1000 Quartz Chronograph is another great do-it-all piece within the Seastar collection. Unlike some of its purpose-driven professional dive watch siblings, the blue gradient dial has a sense of sophistication, much like the green dialed variant.

Where the blue-dialed chronograph really stands out is in its versatility. I think that this watch can be worn in a multitude of situations, from the beach to a boardroom and anything in between. While it will likely not be a black tie event type of watch, it will still prove to be a great daily wear, regardless of what your plans are.

So if you’re looking for a bit of color in your life, I recommend both the green and blue dialed Tissot Seastar 1000 Quartz Chronographs.

11. Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Black and Gold 
(ref. T120.607.17.441.01)

Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Black and Gold 
(ref. T120.607.17.441.01)

Since this will be the last Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional on our list, there are some things that I would like to highlight that we haven’t discussed yet.

First, the angular case of the Seastar 2000 is ultra-modern. With relief channels cut into the sides of the case, the Seastar 2000, though a big and brutish watch, saves on a little weight. I think that these relief cuts give the Seastar 2000 an almost futuristic look while maintaining its dive watch aesthetic.

Second, we mentioned the Powermatic 80 movement in passing but haven’t discussed it at length. The Powermatic 80 has an impressive power reserve of 80 hours, but the real standout feature is the Nivachron balance spring which helps the movement be anti-magnetic. 

I understand that silicon balance springs aren’t new, but it is definitely a huge upgrade for a watch that can be had well under $1,000.

12. Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 Blue Dial 
(ref. T120.407.11.041.03)

Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 Blue Dial 
(ref. T120.407.11.041.03)

I think the Seastar 1000 w/ the blue dial is a great reminder that Tissot is a brand that can build a great watch at a great price point and still looks the part for almost any scenario you put it in. 

Similarly to the blue-dialed quartz chronograph reference, the Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 w/ the blue dial is a great option for adding a subtle change to the ever-present black-dialed dive watch in every watch rotation. 

With summer just around the corner somewhere in the world, I think that as an everyday wear, the Seastar 1000 is a great host for rubber or sailcloth straps that will allow you to customize your look and have an excellent watch for the beach, the bar, or the boat!

13. Tissot Seastar 1000 Quartz Chronograph Red Gradient Dial 
(ref. T120.417.11.421.00)

Tissot Seastar 1000 Quartz Chronograph Red Gradient Dial 
(ref. T120.417.11.421.00)

When discussing watch dial colors, it is very common to see black, white, silver, blue, and even green, but a color that is not as common is red. While it is most definitely a bit more bombastic, I think that it has its place in the world of horology. When done right, red can be a seductive dial color and a wonderful addition to a collection.

The Tissot Seastar 1000 Quartz Chronograph w/ the red gradient dial is one of those timepieces that uses red correctly. The dial, much like the other chronographs in the Seastar collection, has your traditional sub-dial layout and a date between 4 and 5 o’clock. 

But where the Seastar 1000 really shines is in​​ Tissot’s use of a deep red, almost maroon, colorway that oozes sophistication. It really is a beautiful dial and a great timepiece that is a great way to start a collection for a new enthusiast who might want to stand out from the crowd a little bit.

14. Vintage Tissot Seastar Navigator (ref. 40522)

Vintage Tissot Seastar Navigator (ref. 40522)

Now that we have discussed the modern Tissot Seastar collection in its many different variations, I think it is important to discuss a few vintage timepieces that paved the way for the modern Seastar collection.

The vintage Tissot Seastar Navigator ref. 40522 is a funky and chunky (for its time) timepiece in a very 70s-styled tonneau case. With a case diameter of 41mm, this watch was definitely a big piece for its time.

The Seastar Navigator has a black bi-compax layout (meaning two subdials), and is powered by a manually wound movement, the Valjoux cal. 7734, and has a date at the six o’clock position. 

This delightful 70s creation adds just the right amount of color with red chronograph hands and, from a distance, might be mistaken for a Heuer Viceroy. With that said, you can have the 70s Formula 1 look on your wrist from a company with a wonderful history, if the Tissot Seastar Navigator revs your engine.

15. Vintage Tissot Visodate Seastar T12 (ref. 44518-7)

For someone like myself who loves vintage watches but has large wrists, the Seastar Navigator and our next and final watch on the list, the Tissot Visodate Seastar T12 ref. 44518-7 are great options.

Much like the Navigator, the Visodate comes with very modern proportions. With a case diameter of 42.2mm and a lug-to-lug of 50mm, the Visodate would fit perfectly on a variety of wrists and feel right at home by today’s modern standards.

One of the coolest parts about the Visodate is its overly cool 70s aesthetics. The black dial with red and white accents makes the Visodate the perfect companion for a quick ride on your vintage Powell-Peralta skateboard or Channel Island surfboard. 

Which reminds me, unlike the Navigator, which is a chronograph, the Visodate is a dive watch, one with a super compressor case. A super compressor case is a type of case-sealing technology patented in 1956 that allows for a spring-loaded caseback to seal tighter and tighter as the external pressure increases the deeper you dive.

To say that the Visodate is my favorite watch on the list is an understatement. If given the opportunity, I would buy this timepiece today and cherish it until I leave this world.

Parting Thoughts

Okay, so maybe that last sentence was a bit dramatic, but it is true! 

After taking the time and researching Tissot as a brand and, more specifically, the many different variations of timepieces in the Seastar collection, I can confidently say that there is something for everyone.

From the new enthusiast looking to start a collection to the enthusiast who has it all, I think that the Seastar collection offers a whole lot. Whether you are looking for color, size, complication, or strap options, the Seastar line has a variation for you.

So, if you are in the market for a well-made dive watch and need a starting point, check out the Tissot Seastar collection.

15 Best Luxury Watches for Large Wrists (men)

As the 90s gave way to a new millennium, the early 2000s ushered in some trends that were questionable at best. In fashion, we saw the rise of layered polos with popped collars, Ed Hardy, and low-rise jeans.

The music charts were dominated by the likes of Savage Garden and Nickelback, and every hip-hop song had an air horn or siren in it. 

Again, all questionable, but in the luxury watch industry, we saw a trend that would benefit those lumberjacked watch enthusiasts with large wrists. That’s correct; today, we will be giving you a list of the 15 best luxury watches for all of you enthusiasts with 4x4s for wrists.

What Is a Large Watch and Are They for You?

I think it is safe to say that large watches aren’t for everyone. With that said, how do you know if an oversized timepiece is right for you? And when did they become popular? 

As we talked about earlier, the trend of luxury watches for large wrists started in the early 2000s and was made popular by Hollywood and pop culture icons of the time. Think Sylvester Stallone, Arnold Schwarzenegger, and some of the decades early hip hop stars like Pharrell Williams and Jay-Z, who were both some of the earliest wearers of Jacob & Co. 

While much of fashion and style is subjective, it would be a fair observation to suggest that large watches, which can be categorized as a timepiece with a case size of 43mm in diameter and above, are best suited for those of us with a wrist circumference of 7.5 inches and up. 

Don’t get me wrong, if you are a small-wristed guy with the confidence to pull off a large timepiece, go for it! Just know that you may risk looking like a kid playing dress up with your dad’s watch.

Should You Buy a Large Timepiece?

Don’t know if you are big-wristed enough to purchase a large timepiece? No problem! I think it is important for those looking into large timepieces to consider a few things before spending your hard-earned money on your next addition to the collection, size, and legibility. 

For those of us with larger wrists, we should start by looking into timepieces that are inherently larger than others. For example, pilot watches. These timepieces are historically larger than other timepieces because they were purpose-driven tools that needed to be large and legible so pilots could see and use them while flying. 

The same goes for many dive watches, tactical watches, and other tool watches. They all serve a purpose, so size and legibility are incredibly important. With that said, the wearing experience is definitely geared toward wearers with larger wrists.

15 Timepieces That Are Large and in Charge

1. Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea (ref. 136660)

Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea (ref. 136660)

No list is complete without the always popular industry giant that is Rolex. The Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea ref. 136660 is considered by many to be the ultimate tool watch. With its 44mm Oystersteel case, part of the 904L family of stainless steel, and Cerachrom bezel in black ceramic, the Deepsea is/will always be a legend in the world of watches. 

The Deepsea is the latest iteration of the Sea-Dweller family of watches. It was first released in 1967 as a way for Rolex to push the technological boundaries with what they were doing with their existing dive watch, the Submariner. The Sea-Dweller was also the first watch to have a helium escape valve for saturation diving. 

The Deepsea ref.136660 is not only a legendary dive watch capable of reaching depths up to 3,900 meters/12,900 feet, but it is also a great companion for those looking for a piece that might only do a little desk diving from time to time.

But, in the event that the Deepsea isn’t hardcore enough for you. Rolex recently released the Deepsea Challenge, a massive 50mm titanium dive watch capable of reaching depths of 11,000m/36,090ft!

2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication 
(ref. 26582CE.OO.A002CA.01)

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication 
(ref. 26582CE.OO.A002CA.01)

It is safe to say that the AP Royal Oak craze has gotten a bit out of control. While yes, I think anyone in their right mind is totally in the right when it comes to the extent they are willing to go to acquire one, I do think that some people sleep on the Royal Oaks big brother, The Offshore. 

The Offshore Grande Complication ref. 26582CE.OO.A00CA.01 is a prime example of just how much technology goes into Haute Horology. The Offshore Grande Complication is a timepiece that offers more in one package than I thought was possible. 

It comes equipped with hours, minutes, small seconds, date, day, month, perpetual calendar, chronograph, column wheel, rattrapante, moonphase, and minute repeater, all wrapped in a 44mm black ceramic case with a sapphire dial, black counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with a black inner bezel. 

This timepiece is the Inspector Gadget of horology but one that will certainly help you stand out from the droves of “Normy” Royal Oak owners.

3. Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean (ref. 215.30.44.21.01.002)

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean (ref. 215.30.44.21.01.002)

Omega launched the Planet Ocean line in 2005 as an homage to its rich dive watch legacy and heritage. The stylishly oversized 45.5mm Planet Ocean ref. 2200.50.00 fit perfectly in line with the large watch trends of the time.

Since then, Omega has been fine-tuning and crafting the Planet Ocean line with some subtle changes over the years, which include varying sizes, color options, and new generations of movements. This brings us to the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean ref. 215.30.44.21.01.002.

At 43.5mm case diameter and a case thickness of 16mm, this stainless steel cased professional grade dive watch can reach depths of 600m/2000ft. It is powered by an in-house Omega caliber 8900, the first METAS-certified Omega movement, and contains a George Daniels-invented Co-Axial Escapement.

But, the standout feature on this watch is the high polished ceramic dial with white gold applied numerals, indices, and the Omega logo. 

Much like the Rolex Deepsea Challenge, if this isn’t enough watch for you, Omega released the Planet Ocean Ultra-Deep, which comes in a 45.5mm case and can reach depths of 6000m/20000ft.

4. Grand Seiko SLGA001

Grand Seiko SLGA001

Grand Seiko is a watch brand that has seen a meteoric rise in popularity within the watch community since its international launch in 2010. While this can be attributed to the overall quality of the products, I think what makes Grand Seiko so intriguing is the brand’s dedication to craftsmanship through its simple and elegant designs, technology, and great value for money.

The Grand Seiko SLGA001 is a perfect example of how Grand Seiko uses technology in a professional-grade dive watch to ensure accuracy that is second to none.

The SLGA001 is a limited edition of 700 pieces and is powered by the Grand Seiko Spring Drive 9RA5, which is accurate to an astonishing +/- 10 seconds a month! That is +/- 0.5 seconds a day!

But it isn’t just the accuracy of the SLGA001 that makes it such a great timepiece. The SLGA001 comes in a 46.9mm high-intensity titanium case that is lighter and three to four times stronger than stainless steel.

This means for those of you like me who are a bit of a brute, you can rest assured that this insanely finished timepiece is both highly accurate and incredibly rugged.

5. Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic (ref. 414.CI.1123.RX)

Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic (ref. 414.CI.1123.RX)

Listen, I know that Hublot is an acquired taste. For most enthusiasts, it is a brand that we love to hate. But, Hublot does one thing very well, they evoke an emotional response. So whether you like them or not, there is a chance you are talking about them; that is the greatest advertisement/marketing anyone needs.

Regardless of where you stand on Hublot, it is reasonable to say that the Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic is a pretty unique timepiece that does some things very well. The Meca-10 is named this, for one of its coolest features, a 10-day power reserve.

While Hublot isn’t the only one to offer a 10-day power reserve, they are definitely in rare company. That said, Hublot has always seen materials as integral to its design. So, the 45mm black ceramic case does a great job housing the caliber HUB1201 Manufacture, a very attractive skeletonized manually-wound in-house movement.

The Meca-10, like the Offshore Grande Complication, is definitely a statement piece with its use of ceramic for its big, bold case, one that would look right at home on a large wrist.

6. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique (ref. 5015 12B40 O52A)

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique (ref. 5015 12B40 O52A)

1953 was the year that gave birth to the modern dive watch. Released the same year as the Rolex Submariner and Zodiac Sea Wolf, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms will always hold a special spot in history. 

Originally created for the French Navy as a combat diver, the Fifty Fathoms was actually the first dive watch to go to market with a rotating dive bezel, beating out Rolex by only a few months. But what makes the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique ref. 5015 12B40 O52A such an intriguing piece is its case size.

With a case diameter of 45mm and a case thickness of 15.4mm, this satin-finished titanium-cased Fifty Fathoms is a true oversized modern dive watch in every sense of the word. But, due to the titanium case, it is a much easier wearing timepiece than past steel models.

The incredible navy blue dial with white gold applied indices/numerals and matching blue sapphire bezel are the perfect shade of blue to remind you that the ocean is where this timepiece was born.

7. Glashütte Original PanoMaticCounter XL (ref. 1-96-01-02-02-04)

Glashütte Original PanoMaticCounter XL (ref. 1-96-01-02-02-04)

Glashütte Original is a brand that has always followed the KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) philosophy when it comes to the number of collections in their lineup. With just five collections, Glashütte Original has always strived to create a “culture of excellence and creativity.”

With that said, I believe that the Glashütte Original PanoMaticCounter XL ref. 1-96-01-02-02-04 is the perfect example of that philosophy. The PanoMaticCounter XL is an incredibly striking example of a chronograph that is both excellent and creative.

With a case diameter of 44mm, the stainless steel cased flyback chronograph is the perfect marriage of creativity and luxury with a unique feature set that you’d be hard-pressed to find on another timepiece.

The PanoMaticCounter XL has this unique feature right in its name, the ability to utilize pushers on the left side of the case to move a counter function from 00-99. 

But the fun doesn’t stop there. The dial of the PanoMaticCounter XL has a fascinating 3D effect due to a separately mounted dial ring giving this timepiece a dial with wonderful depth.

8. Oris Aquis Depth Gauge (ref. 01 733 7755 4154-Set MB)

Oris Aquis Depth Gauge (ref. 01 733 7755 4154-Set MB)

Much like the PanoMaticCounter XL, the Oris Aquis Depth Gauge ref. 01 733 7755 4154-Set MB has a unique feature that makes it an amazing dive companion for those with wrists big enough to handle this 45.8mm behemoth.

The Aquis Depth Gauge is not only a very capable dive watch that can reach depths of 500m/1640ft, but it can also accurately show you the depth at which you are.

By using a patented system, the Depth Gauge allows water to enter through a small hole cut into the sapphire crystal and fill a small channel milled into the outer edge of the crystal. This allows for a watermark to correspond with a number indicating the depth at which you are.

While the Depth Gauge may be a bit gimmicky and niche, it proves that independents like Oris can still create some incredibly cool technology useful to anyone using it in a real-life scenario.

9. Longines Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch (ref. L2.678.4.11.0)

Longines Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch (ref. L2.678.4.11.0)

There is no denying that the Longines Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch ref. L2.678.4.11.0 is a huge timepiece. With a case diameter of 47.5mm, a case thickness of 16.3mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of a whopping 57.5mm, this aviation-inspired timepiece is truly an expansive beast that will most definitely be quite the conversation starter.

Longines has always done an amazing job tapping into its historic catalog to produce some very unique and heritage-driven pieces. The Lindbergh is no different.

In true aviation fashion, this incredibly large and legible timepiece comes in a steel case with an oversized onion crown which can easily be manipulated with gloved hands. Remember, this was a tool watch and served a purpose, meaning everything about this timepiece is functional and purpose-driven.

In an attempt to not incorrectly describe the functionality of this piece, I urge anyone interested to research the proper way to calculate and utilize the Lindbergh Hour Angle. 

So, if you plan on attempting your own solo Trans-Atalantic flight in a monoplane, the Longines ref. L2.678.4.11.0 might just be the watch for you.

10. Seiko Prospex SNR029

Seiko Prospex SNR029

The Prospex line of timepieces provides a variety of watches at different price points, but what makes them so great is the emphasis on the “Professional Specifications.” Much like the Grand Seiko SLGA001, the Seiko Prospex SNR029 is a Spring Drive driven watch capable of incredible accuracy.

But what makes both of these “large” dive watches so wearable is the lug-to-lug distance. The Seiko Prospex SNR029 has a lug-to-lug distance of only 50.9mm, which means that even though this is a larger cased watch with a diameter of 44.8mm and a case thickness of 15.7mm, it wears very compact on the wrist. 

This will make the wearing experience great for someone with a large round wrist as opposed to someone with a larger flat wrist. I am of the former. I have a 7.5”+ wrist but it is rounder than it is flat, which means that many of the larger Seiko/Grand Seiko watches fit me very well and are a joy to wear.

11. Panerai Luminor Marina (ref. PAM00422)

Panerai Luminor Marina (ref. PAM00422)

No large watch list would be complete without the addition of a Panerai. This list is no exception. Much like Andre the Giant, Arnold Schwarzenegger, or Muhammed Ali, the Panerai Luminor Marina ref. PAM00422 is larger than life.

It’s bombastic and boisterous; some might even say too hard to handle, but regardless of where you stand on Panerai, one thing is true. They know how to make a beautifully-large timepiece.

With a case dimension of 47mm and a case thickness of 17.5mm, primarily due to its incredibly domed crystal, the PAM00422 is an excellent example of a large and modern oversized timepiece with elegant curves due to the Panerai 1950 profiled case.

The matte black sandwich dial construction gives off copious amounts of lume due to the fully lumed disc that sits underneath the dial. The stenciled dial offers great depth and character that is hard to beat but is also a nod to Panerai’s rich and prevalent dive history.

12. Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 46 (ref. AB0137211B1P1)

Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 46 (ref. AB0137211B1P1)

The Breitling Navitimer is one of the most recognizable watches in Breitling‘s catalog. Since its release in 1954, it has been seen on the wrists of actors, comedians, musicians, and even astronauts.

But, the reason the Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 46 ref. AB0137211B1P1 makes our list today, is its size. With a case diameter of 46mm and a rather thin case thickness of only 13.95mm, the Navitimer B01 is a broad yet slim case that makes the B01 a very wearable timepiece. 

The stand-out feature on any Navitimer is the slide rule bezel. Developed by Willy Breitling in 1952, the slide rule bezel allows pilots to perform all necessary flight calculations while in the cockpit of their plane.

In 1954, upon its release and due to the functionality of the slide rule bezel, the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA) announced the Navitimer as the official timepiece of the group.

What makes the Navitimer B01 46 such a neat piece with a nod to history is the use of the AOPA logo just above the Breitling name. 

13. IWC Big Pilot (ref. IW501001)

IWC Big Pilot (ref. IW501001)

Much like the Navitimer B01, the IWC Big Pilot ref. IW501001 is a pilot’s watch and a tool watch. This means that it was designed with a very specific purpose in mind.

When created in 1940 for the German Air Force, the IWC Big Pilot came in at an enormous 55mm! But after its re-releases in 2002, the IWC Big Pilot became an instant classic for those wrists big enough to wear it.

The Big Pilot has since gone through some changes, mainly its size. But, with a case diameter of 46.2mm, a case thickness of 15.6 case thickness, and a bit of a step to the bezel, the timepiece has a bit of a camber which allows for the watch to wear nicely, making this appropriately named timepiece a must for aviation lovers.

14. Zenith Defy 21 El Primero (ref. 95.9000.9004/78.R582)

Zenith Defy 21 El Primero (ref. 95.9000.9004/78.R582)

Many believe the Zenith Defy Skyline is the best sports watch with an integrated bracelet for under $10,000. While I agree with this statement, I believe that Zenith Defy 21 El Primero ref. 95.9000.9004/78.R582 is the true standout in the Defy line.

With a case diameter of 44mm, this beautifully finished titanium-cased chronograph houses the venerable El Primero movement. But the light and agile titanium case isn’t even the best part of this timepiece.

The open-worked dial is truly beautiful. While I understand that skeletonized dials aren’t for everyone, There is something to be said for the attention to detail that Zenith puts into every piece.

15. A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater (ref. 147.025)

A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater (ref. 147.025)

While the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater ref. 147.025 isn’t the first or only minute repeater on our list. It is the first-ever mechanical timepiece to have a jumping numeral display and minute repeater together in one beautiful package.

The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater ref. 147.025 comes in with a case diameter of 44.2mm and a case thickness of 14.1mm. The case is made of solid platinum, making it the only timepiece on our list made of precious metal.

The beautifully symmetrical dial layout is perfect for those of us with a little OCD, but the real magic of any A. Lange & Söhne happens when you flip the watch over, and the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater is no different.

The intricate detail and finishing on the manually wound L043.5 is truly astounding. The luxurious, almost steampunk aesthetic of the finishing must truly be seen to be understood. If you are looking for your next piece and want a true piece of art on your wrist, the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater is the watch for you.

Parting Thoughts

In today’s watch world, we have more options than ever. With the rise of microbrands and affordable luxury, there is no shortage of different timepieces we can put on our wrists. With the slow change of the watch sizing and design of the early 2000s, those of us with larger wrists will always have a more difficult time finding the perfect piece.

But in an attempt to help kick-start your search, we hope this list will act as the catalyst for your future watch purchase. While this is most definitely not a comprehensive list, it is filled with great timepieces from all ends of the spectrum. From Haute Horology to affordable luxury, this list is a reminder that not all trends from the 2000s should be put to rest just yet.

20 annual calender watches (different from perpetual calender)

There are fewer hotly debated topics amongst watch enthusiasts than the highly useful and most elementary of calendar complications, the date complication. Does it belong? And where, 3, 6, 9, 4:30! Where?

While some believe that, from a complication standpoint, there is none more useful for your day-to-day than a date complication, others see it as a mar on a dial, breaking its symmetry and ultimately being the reason for not purchasing a timepiece. 

Strangely enough, as complications get more complicated (e.g. day-date, annual calendar, perpetual calendar), enthusiasts and collectors seemingly change their tune. They look at these complications as must-haves for a well-rounded collection and the most sought-after in all of Haute Horology. 

With that said, strap in and thank the Romans for the development of the calendar because we are going to dive into the world of annual calendar timepieces, discuss a bit about its history and origins, compare it to its older brother (Perpetual Calendar), and showcase the 20 best annual calendar watches.

History of Annual Calendar Watches

As far as watch complications are concerned, the annual calendar is a relatively new complication. It was the mid-nineties, we were a few years out of the Cold War, Seinfeld and F.R.I.E.N.D.S. were on everyone’s TV, and the watch world was slowly recovering from the quartz crisis.

Because of the efforts of watch brands like Patek Philippe and its President, Philippe Stern, watch enthusiasts’ interest in mechanical complications was on the rise. 

The story goes that the idea for the annual calendar was developed as a graduate project of an engineering student at the Geneva School of Engineering after Patek challenged the school to invent a new movement that would invite a new sector of the market to purchase more mechanically complicated timepieces at a more financially accessible price point. 

This is Patek we are talking about, so the “accessible price point” is subjective at best. Patek loved what they saw, awarded the young engineer with a prize, and he went to work with Patek immediately. Patek brought the first annual calendar watch to market with the release and debut of the Patek Philippe ref. 5035 at the Basel Fair 1996.

In the fall of the same year, this watch was awarded “Watch of the Year”. With its incredibly legible and well-balanced three-register dial and, more often than not, gold case, the 5035 appealed to many perpetual calendar lovers because of its luxurious design and less expensive price tag.

Annual Calendar Watches vs Perpetual Calendar Watches

So what is an annual calendar timepiece, and how does it compare to its older brother, the perpetual calendar? Well, to begin, let’s discuss the functionality of both and see the differences between the two complications.

Annual Calendar

An annual calendar timepiece displays and correctly advances the day, date, and month taking into account and differentiating between 30 and 31-day months. With that said, the only manual change that needs to be made by the owner is once a year for the month of February.

Perpetual Calendar

A perpetual calendar timepiece was created to correctly advance the day, date, month, and year until the year 2100, taking into account the month of February and leap years without any manual adjustments by the owner. 

The first perpetual calendar wristwatch, notice I said wristwatch, was brought to market in 1925 by Patek Philippe (shocker!) with the ref. 97975. With that said, the earliest known example of a perpetual calendar was in a pocket watch made by Thomas Mudge in 1762. 

Verdict

So after comparing the functionality of both the annual and perpetual calendars, it is pretty evident that the difference is minimal. Aside from the manual adjustments that must be made once a year and the overall cost, these two siblings are very similar.

Annual Calendar Watches Purpose

So you might be asking yourself, what purpose does an annual calendar watch serve in today’s world? That is a question that anyone with a mechanical timepiece on their wrist should be asking themselves every day. 

In a day and age when we have an infinite amount of knowledge and information at the tips of our fingers, the last thing we are ever in need of is an incredibly complicated mechanical timepiece to tell us where we are in a calendar year. But the annual calendar is a reminder of what it means to be a skilled artist. 

A reminder that even though a smartwatch is more practical and efficient, there is something romantic about a mechanical timepiece that harkens back to a time when the accuracy and innovation that you wore on your wrist helped you keep track of your day-to-day life as it slowly moved under the arrow of time.

Best Annual Calendar Watches

Now that we have had the opportunity to learn a little more about annual calendar watches and how they work let’s dive into our list of the 20 best annual calendar watches. These are ranked from the most affordable to some that might require taking out a second mortgage on your home. 

It is worth noting that due to some of these timepieces being out of production, the pricing is as close to MSRP as we could find through authorized dealers, not gray market, etc.

Longines 1832 Annual Calendar (ref. L4.827.4.92.2) Case Diameter- 40mm | Case Thickness- 12.3mm | Price $2,359

Longines 1832 Annual Calendar (ref. L4.827.4.92.2)

The Longines 1832 Annual Calendar comes in as the most affordable annual calendar on our list. But don’t mistake its price point as a fault or assume that it means it is lacking in quality. Those who have had the opportunity to handle the flagship 1832 line in the metal know that this aptly named line (1832 being the year it was founded) is an amazing point of entry to the annual calendar complication at an amazing price point without compromising on quality and finishing. 

At 40mm, the Longines Annual Calendar sits right in the sweet spot for most average wristed enthusiasts. Its steel case and beige dial are subdued and incredibly clean. The applied indices and framed month/date window give this piece a bit of depth, character, and light play that would have been otherwise missing with a printed dial.

Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Bicompax Annual Calendar (ref. 00.10803.08.32.01) Case Diameter- 41mm | Case Thickness-14.15mm | Price $7,800

Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Bicompax Annual Calendar (ref. 00.10803.08.32.01)

For those who are fans of the John Wick films, Carl F. Bucherer is a name that will sound relatively familiar. The titular character of the series, John Wick, played by the nicest guy in Hollywood, Keanu Reeves, can be seen wearing a Carl F. Bucherer Manero AutoDate throughout the series. 

While the John Wick franchise has definitely made an impact on the cultural zeitgeist of the modern action film, it is the Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Bicompax Annual Calendar that has made an impact on myself and those looking for a beautiful panda or reverse panda dialed chronograph with an annual calendar and a big date! 

This is such an insanely neat piece that offers so much from one of the oldest family and independently-owned Swiss watch manufacturers in the world.

Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar (ref. 130.33.41.22.06.001) Case Diameter- 41mm | Case Thickness- 14.1mm | Price $8,700

Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar (ref. 130.33.41.22.06.001)

What can be said about Omega that hasn’t already been said? A Swiss watch giant that has, since its founding in 1848 by Louis Brandt, created one of the most iconic timepieces in history, the Speedmaster. Oh, and if you haven’t been paying attention or happen to be a hermit living in a cave, it was this watch that went to the Moon. 

At 41mm in diameter and with a case thickness of 14.1mm, the Globemaster works on a wrist like mine, a little over seven inches, but might be pushing the limits in size for some enthusiasts. With that said, I think the Globemaster more than makes up for its size with its highly stylized design, which includes a “Pie Pan” dial, a hallmark, and a callback to the original line of Constellation timepieces from 1952. 

The Globemaster also comes with a Tungsten Carbide bezel, the most scratch-resistant metal known to man. So, if you are one of those enthusiasts who is a little rough on things, the Globemaster might just be the piece for you.

Zenith El Primero Winsor Annual Calendar (ref. 03.2070.4054/02.C711) Case Diameter- 42mm | Case Thickness-13.85mm | Price $10,183

Zenith El Primero Winsor Annual Calendar (ref. 03.2070.4054/02.C711)

Depending on who you ask, the Zenith El Primero, which literally means “the first”, was one of the first manufacturers to develop and bring the automatic chronograph movement to market. I say “one of” because there is quite a debate in the watch world about whose automatic movement was actually the first one.

Was it Zenith, Seiko, or the Chonomatic Group (a joint venture between Heuer-Léonidas, Breitling, Hamilton-Büren, and Dubois-Dépraz)?  Regardless, Zenith has a very storied history in the watch world, and the Zenith El Primero Winsor Annual Calendar is another timepiece that, as far as annual calendars go, has something we have not yet seen on our list, a day function.

Like the Globemaster, the 41mm case diameter and 14mm case thickness might be a deciding factor for some when purchasing this watch; I believe that some of the extra added features and Zenith’s rich history can make up for some of its shortcomings.

Montblanc Heritage Chronometerie Annual Calendar (ref. 112535) Case Diameter- 40mm | Case Thickness- 9.55mm | Price $11,400

Montblanc Heritage Chronometerie Annual Calendar (ref. 112535)

Listen, I know that the name Montblanc doesn’t always bring to mind a rich and storied history of watchmaking. But, since the company’s entrance into the world of horology in 1997, Montblanc strived to have their watches reflect what they were best known for; luxury writing instruments.

Since then, Montblanc has really pushed the envelope when it comes to investing in more complex complications. This is where our number five entry on the list, Montblanc Heritage Chronometerie Annual Calendar, enters. This 40mm, 18kt gold-cased annual calendar has so much to offer.

With its silver sunburst dial and four-register layout, the Montblanc Heritage has something new to offer that we have yet to see on this list; a moonphase. The addition of a moonphase gives the owner a true sense of luxury and refinement that will always be a great conversation piece.

Ulysse Nardin Torpilleur Annual Chronograph (ref. 1533-320le-0a-175-1a) Case Diameter- 44mm | Case Thickness- 13.6mm | Price $12,700

Ulysse Nardin Torpilleur Annual Chronograph (ref. 1533-320le-0a-175-1a)

In its 177-year history, Ulysse Nardin has been at the forefront of technological advancement in the old-world art form of watchmaking. They were the first company to use a silicon hairspring with their release of the 2001 edition of the Ulysse Nardin Freak.

This watch straddled the line between insanity and genius and is still seeing constant innovation. With that said, Ulysses Nardin is no stranger to doing things differently, and in the case of the Torpilleur Annual Chronograph, different is big and bold. The Torpilleur comes in as the third largest timepiece on our list.

At 44mm, the individually numbered Torpilleur has a dual register chronograph layout on a stunningly white varnished dial classically accented by Roman numerals, a mainstay in the Marine Collection. 

Rolex Sky-Dweller (ref. 326934) -0006 Variant Case Diameter- 42mm | Case Thickness- 14mm | Price $15,900

Rolex Sky-Dweller (ref. 326934) -0006 Variant

Like the rest of the Rolex catalog, the Rolex Sky-Dweller is a watch that is synonymous with excellence and reliability. Oh, and an insanely growing price tag and inability to walk into an AD and purchase. Since its release over a decade ago (2012), the Rolex Sky-Dweller is a timepiece aimed at frequent, refined, and cultured world travelers. 

What made the Sky-Dweller such a neat piece with its release was that it was a completely new design without any ties to historical Rolex pieces. The Sky-Dweller has come in a multitude of variants. But, the one I would like to discuss today is the -0006 variant which comes in a 42mm Oystersteel case with white gold fluted bezel, a bright black dial that can simultaneously track two time zones, and of course, the annual calendar

So, if you have a great relationship with your AD and consistently travel to Europe for long weekends, I think the Sky-Dweller is the piece for you. 

IWC Big Pilot Annual Calendar (ref. IW502710) Case Diameter- 46.2mm | Case Thickness- 15.8mm | Price $21,413

IWC Big Pilot Annual Calendar (ref. IW502710)

The IWC Big Pilot Annual Calendar is just that. BIG. Coming in as the biggest watch on our list, the Big Pilot Annual Calendar is a whopping 46mm and has a thickness of 15.8mm, which is actually not too bad for its size. The Big Pilot certainly has a wrist presence best suited for my tree-trunked armed readers. 

The Big Pilot is the first watch on our list to have a power display that helps you monitor the impressive seven-day power reserve. Though the Big Pilot Annual Calendar is not a watch for everyone, I believe it is a great entry on our list from a manufacturer that has always made an impact in the world of horology.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Annual Calendar (ref. 231.53.43.22.06.001) Case Diameter- 43mm | Case Thickness- 14.6mm | Price $23,300

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Annual Calendar (ref. 231.53.43.22.06.001)

The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Annual Calendar is only the second gold-cased watch on our list. The 43mm elegant AT is cased in Omega’s Red Gold, which is darker with more red/orange hues and is much different from Omega’s newest Sedna and Moonshine golds. 

The beautiful case is accented by a “Teak Concept” patterned gray dial that makes the case vividly shine. While I might be a bit of an Omega fanboy, I do think that the two Omega entries on our list are great options for someone looking to purchase an amazing precious timepiece with a useful complication.

Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Annual Calendar (ref. 4000E/000A-B439) Case Diameter- 40mm | Case Thickness- 11.6mm | Price $26,400

Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Annual Calendar (ref. 4000E/000A-B439)

The Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Annual Calendar is the second entry on our list to utilize a moonphase. While I earlier described a moonphase as a great conversation piece, it is worth mentioning that there is something romantic and poetic to a complication that can sometimes be underutilized. 

While the moonphase is not the focus of this article, I do believe it was very well-executed and helps to tie an incredibly well-balanced dial together. The FiftySix has a brilliantly silver-toned dial that is accented by a blue date hand, which helps distinguish the date functionality from the hours, minutes, and running seconds hands. I think that the FiftySix Annual Calendar is a great addition to an already stellar line by VC. 

Glashütte Original PanoMaticCalendar (ref. 1-92-09-02-05-62) Case Diameter- 42mm | Case Thickness- 12.4mm | Price $26,600

Glashütte Original PanoMaticCalendar (ref. 1-92-09-02-05-62)

The Glashutte Original PanoMaticCalender is a watch that needs to be seen to understand its true beauty. To anyone who isn’t a watch enthusiast, the dial of the PanoMaticCalender might be considered a little strange, bizarre, and difficult to read. But the dial is exactly what makes this annual calendar beautiful and unique. 

The opaline silver dial gives the watch an almost iridescent shine while the applied red gold indices and date window surround tie everything together with the beautiful red gold case. The blued seconds hand and moonphase give the PanoMaticCalender a pop of color that helps provide a cool tone to the warm reddish hue that dominates this precious metal timepiece.

Blancpain Quantième Annuel GMT (ref. 6670 1127 MMB) Case Diameter- 40mm | Case Thickness- 11.1mm | Price $31,000

Blancpain Quantième Annuel GMT (ref. 6670 1127 MMB)

Blancpain is a name that is synonymous with innovation within the watch world and one that cannot be easily categorized. There is a dichotomous relationship within the brand that signifies a separation between the complex: complete mastery of complications and their impact during the earliest days of dive watches. Take the former, for example, and Blancpain’s entry on today’s list. 

At 40mm, the Blancpain Quantième Annual GMT, which is part of the Villeret line, is the perfect example of a luxurious and classic timepiece by a company that also produces some of the finest dive watches in the industry. There are always two sides to a coin, and the Quantième is a watch that shows the complication-driven side of Blancpain, which has made them such masters of their craft.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Annual Calendar Stainless Steel (ref. pfc907-1020001-100182) Case Diameter- 42mm | Case Thickness- 11.1 | Price $39,475

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Annual Calendar Stainless Steel (ref. pfc907-1020001-100182)

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Annual Calendar is, for me, the standout timepiece on this list. The 42mm sleek and modern stainless steel case is adorned with a platinum hand-knurled bezel and comes in at a slim 11.1mm. For those thinking that it is all show and substance, you’d be wrong. 

Atop a gray guilloche dial is the obvious, what we’ve come to expect from an annual calendar watch, day, month, moonphase, but here’s the kicker, the date is a strategically placed retrograde date at the top end of the dial. This ultra cool date function means there isn’t an awkwardly placed date window on the dial breaking the Tonda’s beautiful symmetry. If money were no issue, this would be the watch for me.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Annual Calendar (ref. 25920ST) Case Diameter- 36mm | Case Thickness- 8mm | Price $40,100

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Annual Calendar (ref. 25920ST)

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Annual Calendar is an outlier on our list due to its size. Coming in at 36mm, the Royal Oak is the smallest watch on the list, but this feature-packed mid-sized watch definitely punches up with the big boys.

With its DNA firmly rooted in the 70s Genta design, the Royal Oak utilizes its minimal dial space for the best. With its tapisserie dial, applied indices, and lowered chapter ring acting as the date indicator, the Royal Oak has a great depth to the dial that is missing with some timepieces.

The only issue I see with this timepiece is its off-center month sub-dial. Definitely not for those with OCD. But one cool feature of the month sub-dial is the months printed in red, which correlates to the 31 printed in red, indicating those months are months with 31 days.

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Annual Calendar (ref. W1580002) Case Diameter- 45mm | Case Thickness-14.05 | Price $44,283

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Annual Calendar (ref. W1580002)

Coming in as the second largest watch on our list, the Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Annual Calendar is a watch that uses its large dial and the space given to its advantage. Cased in white gold and working inward with concentric circles, the Rotonde uses the outer ring to denote the months, while the inner ring denotes the days of the week. 

These circles are broken up by the always present and always classic Roman numeral hour markers. One incredibly neat design aspect of this timepiece is the use of a guilloche lower dial, acting as a beautiful background to the wonderfully symmetric dial. The Rotonde also features a well-placed big date at the top center of the dial, right above the Cartier name.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Annual Calendar Moonphase (ref. 5726/1A) Case Diameter- 40.5mm | Case Thickness- 11.3mm | Price $56,180

Patek Philippe Nautilus Annual Calendar Moonphase (ref. 5726/1A)

Patek Phillipe is the reason that this list exists. So there was never an instance when their watches would not make it. The Nautilus, next to the Royal Oak, is one of the most popular and sought-after timepieces on today’s market. 

So how do you make an already incredible watch just a bit better? Add an annual calendar and perfectly execute the layout of the date, day, month, moon phase, and, just for good measure, a 24-hour indicator.

The horizontally embossed dial on the Nautilus is a beautiful touch that graduates from blue to black at the very edges of the dial. While it has no equal, the Nautilus knows how to take an already proven design and stand out from the rest that has come before.

A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar (ref. 330.025) Case Diameter- 38.5mm | Case Thickness- 9.8mm | Price $58,436

A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar (ref. 330.025)

Like the Glashutte Original, the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar is a German-made timepiece that is a true work of art. The level of finishing of any A. Lange & Söhne is always a sight to behold, and that has never been more true than it is with Saxonia. 

Launched in 2010 and coming in at 38.5mm cased in platinum, the Saxonia is a harmonizing design that combines the calendar features, including big date, and perfectly sews them in with the timekeeping and moonphase capabilities. The solid silver dial combined with the platinum case and solid gold moonphase disc makes this timepiece a statement piece with a lot of heft.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph (ref. 5905/1A) Case Diameter- 42mm | Case Thickness- 14.3mm | Price $63,870 

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph (ref. 5905/1A)

Making its second entry on our list is the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph, a 2021 release with a flyback chronograph and an annual calendar, making this Patek a true work of art. With its all-steel construction and coming in at 42mm, this curvaceous timepiece offers the sizing of a modern watch with the wrist presence of a more luxurious timepiece. 

Its concave bezel makes this piece a joy to wear, much less intimidating than the 14.3mm case thickness might indicate. The sunburst olive green dial helps keep this Patek a little more playful and casual.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time (ref. 5326G) Case Diameter- 41mm | Case Thickness- 11.07mm | Price $78,660

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time (ref. 5326G)

Making a third and final entry on our list, the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel time, like the Parmagiani Fleurier, is a stand-out piece for me. The 41mm white gold case gives the timepiece a heft that reminds you it is on your wrist. 

What makes this piece so incredibly useful and over cool is the Annual Calendar Day, which shows the date and month in two windows centered near the top of the watch, the ability to track two time zones (both local and home time), but also local and home day/night indicators within the local and home time apertures! This is just a magnificent piece that needs to be seen.

F.P. Journe Octa Calendrier Calibre 1300.3 Case Diameter- 38 or 40 mm | Case Thickness- 10.6mm | Price $175,802 (Est.)

F.P. Journe Octa Calendrier Calibre 1300.3

F.P. Journe only produces about 900 timepieces per year, so the likelihood that you see them in the wild or up for sale is rare. That said, I think that is what makes the F.P. Journe Octa Calendrier Calibre 1300.3 such a great piece. 

Not only is it an amazingly beautiful design with a platinum case, white gold dial and guilloche silver sub-dial, and retrograde date function, but it is a true Unicorn that, for the lucky individual who owns one, will likely always hold a spot in their heart.

Conclusion

I hope you all had a great time reading this article. In my research, I learned a lot on the topic of annual calendar timepieces, and I hope you did too. Until next time, thank you.

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