Grand Seiko SBGE277 Review

After testing and reviewing several Grand Seiko watches, I’ve grown accustomed to a particular style—sleek, compact, and elegant. The pieces I’ve worn are mostly ones you’d expect to see on formal occasions. I wouldn’t call them dainty, but there’s definitely a refined, dressier feel to many watches in the Grand Seiko catalog. 

If there’s one thing Grand Seiko excels at, it’s evolving while maintaining its signature quality. To reach a wider audience, the brand expanded its collection to include sports watches that match the elegance of its dress pieces. At the same time, it continues to innovate, improving its in-house movements with precise complications like chronographs and GMTs. 

Since 2010, GS has gained worldwide popularity for its variety of sports watches. These watches have shed the delicacy of dress watches and adopted a more robust and rugged look, all while maintaining the elegance that made Grand Seiko the household name it is today. 

While browsing through a variety of sports watch options, one model stood out as a true champion among heavyweights—the SBGE277. I often associate Grand Seiko pieces with art, but I can’t overstate the brilliance that radiates from this exquisite watch. Much like a masterpiece in the Louvre, the SBGE277 can only be fully appreciated in person.

History

As touched upon earlier, the developers at Grand Seiko believed that to become a legitimate contender in the watchmaking world dominated by Swiss manufacturers, they needed to expand their collection. In 2002, GS produced an instant classic with the SBGM001. 

The SBGM001 was the first Grand Seiko model to feature the 9S56 movement, marking the brand’s introduction of a GMT complication. With its black dial and striking red GMT hand, this watch made waves upon release for its design, functionality, and precision.

The 2010s marked a new chapter for Grand Seiko with the launch of the Sports Collection. The brand expanded beyond dress watches, introducing chronograph and GMT models, including some limited editions. This shift into tool watches helped Grand Seiko break the mold and gain recognition in international markets.

After an impressive showcase at Watches and Wonders in Geneva, Grand Seiko kept the momentum going by announcing another wave of releases. Among them was the SBGE277, launched in May 2022. This timepiece boasts a commanding wrist presence, featuring a striking black dial and housing the remarkable in-house Caliber 9R65 movement.

Case

Every rugged dive watch requires a solid and durable case, and the SBGE277 delivers precisely that. As one of the larger GMT models in Grand Seiko’s lineup, it measures 44mm in diameter, 14.77mm thick, and has a lug-to-lug width of 50.8mm.

The watch’s double-domed sapphire crystal fits nicely into the case and doesn’t stick out as much, giving it a shallow, snug look. The screw-down crown is placed conveniently at the 4 o’clock marker.

Perhaps my favorite feature of this Grand Seiko GMT is the bezel. The last time I reviewed a GS GMT, it lacked a rotating bezel. It almost sounds childish, but as soon as I got my hands on the SBGE277, my fingers wrapped around the bezel and began rotating away.

The SBGE277 features a beautifully designed half-black, half-white bidirectional sapphire bezel. The action of the rotating bezel is smooth, and the satisfying click as it turns makes up for the silence of the Spring Drive movement. (Not to knock Grand Seiko’s innovative Caliber 9R66, but I have a soft spot for the ticking sound of traditional watches.)

As someone with a smaller wrist, the idea of wearing a GMT can be daunting. When I read the specs of the SBGE277, especially its 44mm diameter, I was already bracing myself for disappointment, expecting yet another oversized horological beauty that just wouldn’t fit.

But once again, I was proven wrong by the master craftsmen and women at the Grand Seiko Studios. The stainless steel case tapers inward, making the watch feel more like a 40mm than a 44mm. The curved lugs also hug the wrist, making the SBGE277 surprisingly comfortable to wear.

With a blend of Zaratsu polishing and brushed finishing, the SBGE277 offers the ability to track three different time zones and boasts 200 meters of water resistance. It’s the ideal combination of sporty and elegant—exactly what you’d expect from Grand Seiko.

Dial

Grand Seiko is renowned for creating dials that are nothing short of remarkable. Whether it’s the color, intricate details, or textured finishes, it’s no surprise that GS consistently delivers some of the finest dials in the industry.

Seeing a picture of the SBGE277 online doesn’t do it justice. I may be exaggerating slightly, but to truly appreciate the beauty and craftsmanship of this dial, you need to see it in person.

At the foot of the Hotaka Mountains lies the Shinshu Watch Studio, where Grand Seiko designs, produces, and adjusts all Spring Drive-powered watches. The SBGE277’s black textured dial is a tribute to this volcanic mountain range, inspired by the rugged beauty of the Hotaka peaks.

A bit reminiscent of the SBGE201 and its jet-black dial, the SBGE277 has a black dial filled with intricate details, staying true to Grand Seiko’s nature-inspired theme. Like the volcanic rock of Mt. Hotaka, the dial resembles obsidian, playing with light as it reflects off its surface.

The inner rehaut mirrors the outer bezel, featuring black and white odd-numbered markers. As expected, the silver Grand Seiko logo sits below the 12 o’clock marker, while the red GMT lettering and Spring Drive reminder in white are positioned just above the 6 o’clock marker.

The red GMT hand is a bold and striking feature, standing out beautifully against the black dial and adding an extra layer of visual appeal to the already stunning design. The hour and minute hands are exquisitely polished, while the seconds hand glides smoothly around the dial, thanks to the Caliber 9R66.

A power reserve indicator is neatly positioned between the 8 and 9 markers, providing a valuable reminder for when to manually wind the watch. Additionally, there’s a slim date window at the 4 o’clock position.

I saved my favorite detail for last. While a watch under light is beautiful, a watch you can rely on in the dark is even better. At its core, the SBGE277 is a tool watch, and its incredible lume ensures you can quickly tell the time, whether you’re diving or simply in a dark room.

The dauphine hands, indices at 3, 6, 9, and 12, and the outer bezel all feature LumiBrite for enhanced visibility. Thanks to the sapphire crystal covering the bezel, the luminescence extends around the edge, illuminating the watch’s notable and functional details.

Movement

With the high torque of a mechanical watch and the high precision of a quartz watch, Grand Seiko developed an in-house movement that combined the two mechanisms. Their creation would stun the world and solidify the brand as one of the world’s elite watchmakers. 

The Spring Drive movement was the result of a 20-year journey to create a watch that could be considered a representation of time itself. Silent and continuous, this revolutionary movement debuted in 1999 and set forth a groundbreaking new era for Grand Seiko. 

Round and round it goes, never stopping in a continuous flow—what am I? The answer to this little riddle could be time itself, but it could just as easily be the seconds hand on a Spring Drive Caliber 9R65 Grand Seiko, first introduced in 2004.

The SBGE277 is powered by the Caliber 9R66. The successor of the 9R65, the Caliber 9R66 is the first Spring Drive with a GMT compilation. 

Precision has always been a core goal for Grand Seiko, and the SBGE277 delivers with remarkable accuracy, offering a deviation of ±1 seconds per day and ±15 seconds per month. 

The crown plays a crucial role in the functionality of the 9R66 movement, allowing for manual winding to power the watch. As you wind it, the power reserve indicator on the dial moves accordingly, letting you know how much energy is stored. With a 72-hour power reserve, the watch can run for several days before needing to be wound again.

Pulling the crown to its second position allows you to adjust the hour hand independently, making it easy for travelers to set the local time without disrupting the sweeping hand.

With its unparalleled accuracy, time-hacking capabilities, and mesmerizing sweeping seconds hand, the Caliber 9S66 that powers the SBGE277 elevates this already impressive entry in the Grand Seiko lineup. The elegant yet bold design of the case, the layered, textured dial, and the seamless flow of the second hand all come together to create a cohesive and striking timepiece.

Bracelet

The SBGE277 features a beautifully crafted stainless steel bracelet, showcasing the classic Grand Seiko three-link design. The polished inner links contrast elegantly with the brushed outer links, creating a striking balance. From the side, the links appear rounded and polished to perfection, producing a stunning shine that adds to the watch’s overall appeal.

The bracelet is equipped with screwed-in links, making it easy to remove and adjust for a thinner wrist. And if the lack of links feels uncomfortable or looks unbalanced, don’t worry! The clasp offers four micro-adjustment settings, giving you extra flexibility to achieve the perfect fit.

The term “strap monster” refers to a watch’s versatility when it comes to pairing with different straps and bracelets, and the SBGE277 fits this description perfectly. Its design allows it to shine no matter the strap choice.

With the SBGE277’s 21mm band width, strap options may be somewhat limited, but the drilled holes in the lugs make swapping straps a breeze—and, if you’re anything like me, it can become addictive!

On The Wrist

The SBGE277 was one of the larger watches I’ve tested, and that’s exactly what drew me to it. Could I make this horological titan fit comfortably on my smaller wrist?

For anyone with small wrist syndrome, the answer is yes. Thanks to the engineering brilliance of the Shinshu Watch Studio, Grand Seiko has mastered the art of creating timepieces that are “more than meets the eye.”

Despite its 44mm size, this watch feels more like a 40mm on the wrist. I was genuinely dumbfounded by how comfortable it was once I got it strapped on, though it did take me a while to adjust it properly—something I’ll explain shortly.

The angles of the case allow it to sit snugly on any wrist. Thanks to the micro-adjustments, the watch stayed perfectly in place without sliding or shifting around. It felt nothing like I expected, which makes me wonder if the craftsmen and women at Grand Seiko specifically designed this case to accommodate smaller wrists.

The obsidian dial is truly a marvel, and at the moment, it’s my favorite. While I haven’t had the chance to test many watches, the SBGE277 carries a distinct attitude. It’s rugged, bold, and hefty. The more I wore it, the more I felt like this was the least “Grand Seiko” Grand Seiko I’ve worn.

The sporty nature of the SBGE277 allowed me to do something I thought I’d never do with a Grand Seiko—out of pure respect for their artistry and craftsmanship. I changed the strap not once, not twice, but five times, switching between NATO straps, leather, and back to the original bracelet.

I felt like I was committing a sin, but the truth is, the SBGE277 was a fun watch to experiment with (of course, with caution since this was a test run). It’s a stylish brute of elegance, and even when it felt less formal, the intricacies and details always reminded me that this was still a Grand Seiko.

Price

The Grand Seiko SBGE277 is being sold at a retail price of $6,200, with pre-owned models typically ranging from $3,800 to $4,000. This remarkable watch is currently available at Exquisite Timepieces.

Closing Thoughts

Shed any preconceived notion of the Grand Seiko dress watch standard. The SBGE277 is a Grand Seiko masterclass in pushing boundaries. It consistently offers something new to admire every time you wear it. If you plan to get your first GMT or plan to add another one to your collection, stop searching and consider this: the likelihood of wearing a GMT that is as technologically advanced and tough as the SGBE277 is very, very slim. If the black volcanic dial doesn’t pique your interest, the lume doesn’t spark something in you, or the Spring Drive fails to move you, then stick to your run-of-the-mill GMTs. The SBGE277 is a watch for those who know, and if you know, you know.